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I've always wondered how did electronic locks work, so once i finished the basic digital electronics
course I decided to build one myself. And Ill help you to build your own!

You could connect it to anything from 1v to 400v(or maybe more that depends on the RELAY), DC or
AC, so you could use it to control another circuit, or even to electrify a fence!! (please dont try
that, really dangerous) I connected a mini chrismas tree to the output (110v) cause I hadnt taken
the holydays decoration off my lab, so it was around at the time i finished the proyect.

Here are some pictures of the finished System, and a video too, so you can see it working.

See More (/tag/type-id/?q=)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FBY/99SZ/G4PBWWKR/FBY99SZG4PBWWKR.LARGE.jpg)
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How-To: Make an RGB
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Step 1: How does it work?


First I thought in what was needed to be processed and how. So i drew this diagram as
a map to guide me as i build each part of the proyect. Heres a summary of how it works.
First we need a circuit to decode the 10 possible inputs (0-9) to its 4 output BCD (Binary
Coded Decimal), and another output that tells us when any button is pressed.
Then we need to build the circuit for our two 7-segments displays to work properly, with
4 inputs for a BCD number and of course 7 outs for our displays, ( I used the IC
74LS47)
Then a circuit to save each pressed number and toggle between displays
As well as an internal memory for our password
And, the hearth of our lock, the comparator (its 8 bits cause there are 4 bits per digit in
the display, meaning that if you want to do a 4 digit lock you will need two of this
connected together.) This will tell us if the numbers in the displays are the same as the
password saved in the internal memories.
And finally a circuit to keep the OPEN or CLOSE signal for an undetermined time, and of
course an output (thats whatever you want to control with your lock)
Step 2: Materials
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F9P/0SBE/G4PBWWLE/F9P0SBEG4PBWWLE.LARGE.jpg)

Heres all that you will need.
NOTE: I took most of the materials from an old VCR board, so they were "free" making this
proyect really cheap. In total i spent about 13 dlls (most of the IC cost 76 cnts, exept for the D-
ff (about 1.15) cause i had no IC, but you can keep them for future proyects, they are a great
investment.
Components:
Lots of Diodes (about 20) to make one way connections.
One NPN transistor ( to feed the Relay Coil with enough current)
One Relay (to control the connected device)
One red LED ( to indicate when the system is LOCKED)
14 push buttons
Lots of resistors (doesnt really matter the resistance, its just to set the IC pins to 1 or
0[+ or -])
Two 7-segments Displays.
A Lot of wire!!

Integrated Circuits:
Two 7432(OR GATES) to build the DEC to BCD and the comparator
Two 7486(XOR GATES) soul of the comparator.
Two 7447 Display driver
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZF/9DLG/G4PBSQAC/FZF9DLGG4PBSQAC.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQ4/YDHD/G4PBSQAB/FQ4YDHDG4PBSQAB.LARGE.jpg)
Four 74175(4 D-FF) each is a memory able to hold 4 bits.
One 7476(2 JK-FF) for the display selector and to hold the OPEN CLOSE signal.
One 7404(NOT GATE) invert the clock pulsefor the display selector. ( you could use an
NPN transistor insted, cause you need only one gate ( the ic has 6).

Tools:
3 Protoboards (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breadboard
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breadboard))
Pliers
Exacto Knife
5V DC power supply(feeds circuits)
12V DC power supply(feeds the relay coil)
120V AC Power supply(feeds the device on the output)
NOTE:I used about 8 ft of wire, and advice about this, insted of buying expensive protoboard
wire, you could Buy 3 ft of ethernet cable, the strip it, and you will have 8 or 9 wires, each with
a diferent color and 3 ft long. (thats exactly what i do, since the normal protoboard wire is
about 10 ft per dollar.
But for a buck you could 3.3 ft of ethernet cable, so you would end up with about 27-30 ft!
Step 3: Dec to BCD
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJM/DZ3X/G4PBSQAL/FJMDZ3XG4PBSQAL.LARGE.jpg)

The first step is building the input system, so you can comunicate with your lock.
Ive designed the following circuit in order to achive two main goals.
Turn any of the 10 numbers from (0-9) to its BCD (binary) counterpart.(Actually, there is
an IC for this purpose, but it wasnt in stock when i went to my local electronic shop., so
if you get it you will save yourself a lot of time and trouble, but I think is more fun this way
)
Being able to detect whenever a button is pressed.
To solve the first problem, we should take a look at this truth table to know which output
(ABCD) will be high (1) when we press each button.
D C B A] X
0 0 0 0] 0
0 0 0 1] 1
0 0 1 0] 2
0 0 1 1] 3
0 1 0 0] 4
0 1 0 1] 5
0 1 1 0] 6
0 1 1 1] 7
1 0 0 0] 8
1 0 0 1] 9

Now heres where something I love about Digitals comes to a use
There are many ways of doing one thing. Its just like maths, you can get to 3 adding 1+2, or
substracting 4-1, or 3^1.
In other words, you could build lots of diferents circuits to achive the same goal, this is
something that makes our current task easier.

I designed this circuit cause I thought it used few ICs, but you could design your own!
Now, I know some maybe scratching their heads trying to figure out why did I used so many
diodes, well here is the answer

Diodes work like a one way connection, so in a pair connected as in my circuit, if theres
(1) voltage on its "positive side" it will conduce current, so we will have voltage in the other
side aswell, but if there is a negative , or inexistent voltage (0) it will behave as an open circuit.
Lets check the behavior of these diodes, calling the first diode anode (+) "E", and the second
diode anode "F" and the output will be their connected cathode"X".
E F] X
0 0] 0
0 1] 1
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOS/PWDB/G4PBSQAK/FOSPWDBG4PBSQAK.LARGE.jpg)
1 0] 1
1 1] 1

You can see we have the exact same behavior than an OR GATE, and then,Why
not using just diodes, that way you will save even more Integrated Circuits, and
money?...Well the answer is simple, and you should really take it in consideration,
the VOLTAGE DROPPED across EACH DIODE. Its normally about 0.65V. Why is
that? Because each diode needs at least 0.6 V across its anode and cathode to
make its junction get close, so it can start conducting.I
In other words, for each diode you connect and its working at the same time, you
will loose 0.65 V that wouldnt be a big problem if we were only turning leds on,
but we are working with TTL IC, that means that we need at least more than 2 V.
And as we are starting with 5 v.. That means that conecting 5 diodes will cause a
failure in our circuit ( the integrated circuit wouldnt be able to distinguish between
0v and less than 2v)

Thats why I never used more than 2 diodes in each input

NOTE: You must connect a resistor connected to GND in each OR Gate input

To solve the second problem I just added a diode to each ABCD, and 0, and connected them
together, so whenever any of those is 1, you will have a 1 on "Press"(P).

Now all thats left is to build it on your breadboard, or if you want to save some more space
you can do as i did, and drill some holes in a construction paper and solder the diodes and
push buttons there...
If you need some more information about Logic Gates:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_4/chpt_3/1.html
(http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_4/chpt_3/1.html)
If you need some more information about diodes:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/1.html
(http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/1.html)
Step 4: Displays
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F3Z/BXK4/G4PBWWMX/F3ZBXK4G4PBWWMX.LARGE.jpg)

These step is one of the easiest, we just need to decode the ABCD inputs to drive the seven
segment displayAnd luckly theres already an integrated circuit that will save us all the logic,
time and space.

If you are using a Common Anode display then you will need a 7447.
If you are using a Common Cathode display then you will need a 7448.

The wiring is the same, so either way you could use my schematic.

The inputs ABCD for each IC come from each memorys output (we will review the memories in
the next step)
Step 5: Memory
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJV/7O3V/G4PBWWMY/FJV7O3VG4PBWWMY.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFA/2LXT/G4PBWWND/FFA2LXTG4PBWWND.LARGE.jpg)

This is were we change from combinational logic, to secuencial logic
To make the 4 bits(ABCD) memory we just need a D- Flip Flop for each bit, and in the 74175
we have 4 of those.
Remember each number is represented in ABCD , so each 74175 can save one number.

For more information about how does the D-flipflop works, and how does it saves
information,:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#D_flip-flop
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#D_flip-flop)

The input of the first two memories (Data "D") comes from the DEC to BCD coder that we
built on the first step.
Well we have the information that each one is going to hold, but, when are they going to save
it?
Of course, one will save the first pressed number and the other the second pressed
number

So, how do we get this effect? Well with another kind of FF (flip flop) the JK, when both J and
K inputs are high, it will change the state of the outputs to its complement (negation), in other
words, we will have on "Q" 1, then 0 then 1 again, then 0 and so on. This Q and Q are the
clock for the memories (what will tellem when to save new data.)

The pulse that will determine when this change is made is the "P" that is high whenever you
press any number, but to save the information on time, we will need the opposite, so heres
where we use the NOT GATE.

In other words, once we push a button, the jk ff will change its output, turnin on the first
memory, so that it will save the data, then we push again and the first memory recording state
will be off, but the second memory will save the new data!
I added at this point a reset button that will turn both memories (ABCD) back to 0, and will
return the display selector (jk ff) to the first memory.
For more information about the JK FF:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#JK_flip-flop
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FCQ/FDVN/G4PBWWNF/FCQFDVNG4PBWWNF.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNT/S1N8/G4PBWWNE/FNTS1N8G4PBWWNE.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FZ9/2XOX/G4PBWWNC/FZ92XOXG4PBWWNC.LARGE.jpg)
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#JK_flip-flop)

Now why did i said we need four 74175?
Well to save the password!! While its possible just to set the password with resistors to GND
or Vcc, that will make your password static, and impossible to change if you get your lock
done in a PCB.
So, with a memory, you can save the password, and change it as many times as you wish.

The inputs will be the outputs of our displays memory, so when a positive pulse reaches their
clock, you will be coping whathever numbers are in the displays. (both, the memories and
password memories will have the same information). Of course the "new password" pulse
will only be avaliable if you already intruduced the correct password and opened the lock.

In all we will have a storage capacity of 2 Bytes or 16 bits!!
Step 6: Comparing
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FT2/TQLM/G4PBWWNX/FT2TQLMG4PBWWNX.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FYT/FRSE/G4PBWWNY/FYTFRSEG4PBWWNY.LARGE.jpg)

At this point we have a system thats capable of saving each number we press in one display
then the other, and copying that information to the password memories we are still lacking
the essential, the Comparator one circuit that will compare the two (ABCD) of the display
memories with the two (ABCD) of the password memories.. Again, theres already an IC from
the TTL family that does all the dirty job, but it wasnt in available in my local electronic shop.

So I built my own.
To understand how i did it lets look at the XOR truth table

A a] X
0 0] 0
0 1] 1
1 0] 1
1 1] 0

Notice that whenever A and a have the same value, the output is low (0).
So if they are diferent we will have a 1 at the output.
Meaning that with one XOR Gate you can compare 2 bits one of the display memory and the
other of the password memory. Based on that i built the following circuit, remember that you
can build it your own way, cause there are many ways to get to the same answer here in
digital electronics.

This circuit takes in the 8 bits of the display memories ( one bit per XOR, cause the other
input should be used with the password memory) and the 8 bits of the password memories (
its a 1 Byte comparator).
And will deliver only one output.
if and only if the information on both display memories is the same as the information in the
password memories, we will have a (0) low output. In other words, if the information on both
sets of memories differ, even on 1 bit, the output will be high (1).
Step 7: Open/Close
(http://cdn.instructables.com/F25/A96L/G4PBSQEY/F25A96LG4PBSQEY.LARGE.jpg)
Digital Combination Lock! by Nino123 (/member/Nino123/)
+ Collection I Made it!
Download (/id/Digital-Combination-Lock/?download=pdf) 7 Steps
Favorite
(/id/Digital-Combination-Lock/)

Finally the last part, we are almost done! Soon enogh you will be able to lock any device, or
electrify any fence,, ( Please dont!)

Now, we will take the last bit of information, and interrupt it with a push button, so if someone
accidentaly writes the correct password, the lock wont open.( i called this button "enter", really
clever, huh!,)

And after the enter button,will come the RS latch, one device that can turn Q to 1 if a theres
a 0 on its R input, and save it, and Q to 1 if theres a 0 in the S input.

For more information on RS latch:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#SR_flip-flops
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D_flip_flop#SR_flip-flops)

I connected "Q" to a red led meaning lock, or that the controlled device is OFF.
And "Q" to a transistor that will provide the relay with enogh current to turn it, turning ON the
controled device.
"Q" was connected to a push button, ( that i called new password button for obious reasons)
so that when you push that button it you will close the circuit between Q and the clock input
for the password memory. If Q is Low (system locked) nothing will change in the password
memory when the button is pressed, but if it is High (system Open) clock will be activated and
password memories will copy the information on the display memories.(changing the
password).
And connected a resistor to GND and to a push button (lock button) and from there to the S
input, so whenever you press it, you will lock the system.

Well, while i could have bought an RS flip flop just for this purpose, i still got one JK ff left from
my 7476.
And, cause the inputs R and S are asincronous, we dont need to worry about the clock. So
just wire things up as shown in the diagram ( as i did.)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFP/BQCN/G4PBSQEX/FFPBQCNG4PBSQEX.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FFX/QXIV/G4PBSQEV/FFXQXIVG4PBSQEV.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FU2/NFLO/G4PBSQEW/FU2NFLOG4PBSQEW.LARGE.jpg)
Make Comment
(/member/afz2004/)
1 year ago
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Be Carefull when you connect the relay to AC, use enough isolating tape.. You dont want a
short circuit when working with hundreds of volts!
After conecting everithing togetherwe are finally done!!! Please feel free to comment any
question or suggest, if you notice any problem or mistake dont doubt in ponting it out. Im here
to help.
Good lock, i mean, good luck with that lock.
afz2004 (/member/afz2004/)
nino, how to connect all this circuit? especially the display memories circuit. I don't
understand it with the internal memories. does it came together in display memories
circuit? thank you.
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) afz2004
Hey, sorry again for the late reply,
finals are killing me, but well thats
what you have to go through to be an
engineer! Well, about how to
connect it... Most of the diagrams I
posted, came from a software which
not only numbered each pin, but also
named it; in order to be able to
understan that, you need to know
your ICs, and by that I mean reading
the datasheet, and understanding
the basic operation of your IC, and
how to use each pin. I strongly
recommend, that you practice easier
circuits with each IC, just to get used
to the Pinout and the way they work,
and then youll be able to make any
bigger project using as many as you
need, after all, if you learn the
alphabet youll be able to write
poems, books or just about anything
after practicing, the same applies
here.
The 74175 is just as any other TTL
IC, you have to power it with 5v,
ground, and in this case, youll have
to give it a signal that will trigger the
change of state on the outputs(which
will remain on that state
indeterminately), acording to your
inputs (which youll control on the
keypad) . In this case, the output are
coded to BCD, and then translated
from that to a 7segment display
"language" by our 7447
afz2004 (/member/afz2004/)
I'm sorry. actually I posted once only. Don't know how it repeated again. By the way,
thank you very much for your explanation. I will seek your advice if I stuck at
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somewhere later. :D Thank you once again.
afz2004 (/member/afz2004/) afz2004
this is my new account from azaki-1. thank you.
azaki-1 (/member/azaki-1/)
hi. I have same project with you where I have to build digital combination lock. I just
want to confirm with you which is my project need to enter 4 numbers, and reconfirm
again the number input. If correct, then it will light up GO LED. if not, NOT GO LED.
So, it is my project almost same to you or not. Thank you in advance, and really need
your explanation on your projects.
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) azaki-1
I answered on the last comment reply,
but It has been a lot of time since the
last time I used Digital circuits, I can
totally tell you that using a Pic,
PICAXE, Arduino, Parallax, or any
other microcontroller would make your
whole proyect really easy. Its easier to
learn how to program (and maybe
cheaper) a microcontroller that
learning digitals. But if you, (like in my
case) MUST use Digital Circuits (TTL
74XXX) I hope my proyect serves as a
guide, If you really need more help, you
can send me a Personal Message, Ill
try to answer as soon as I can, just be
patient, Im an engineer student, I have
not a lot of free time.
azaki-1 (/member/azaki-1/)
hi. I have same project with you where I have to build digital combination lock. I just
want to confirm with you which is my project need to enter 4 numbers, and reconfirm
again the number input. If correct, then it will light up GO LED. if not, NOT GO LED.
So, it is my project almost same to you or not. Thank you in advance, and really need
your explanation on your projects.
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) azaki-1
Yes it really almost the same. On the
output, the led that will go or will not go
out is just the same as my Relay for
110v, instead of wiring the relay to the
output, just connect the led directly
where the Q or Q' depending on your
case. If you want it to be a 4 number
combination lock, youll have to add two
more displays, decoder(7447),
memory(74145) and comparation
blocks (7486). To make it double
confirmation, you can add another
flipflop (7476) before the led, so youll
need two "clocks" (correct number on
the input) for your last jk flipflop to turn
the Q' ON.
azaki-1 (/member/azaki-1/)
hi. I have same project with you where I have to build digital combination lock. I just
want to confirm with you which is my project need to enter 4 numbers, and reconfirm
again the number input. If correct, then it will light up GO LED. if not, NOT GO LED.
So, it is my project almost same to you or not. Thank you in advance, and really need
(/member/mark16/)
1 year ago
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3 years ago
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your explanation on your projects.
mark16 (/member/mark16/)
I also would like to ask if you can suggest a circuit with these functions:
Code Breaker
Three digit code (0-9)
Three LEDs for right number but wrong position (red)
Three LEDs for right number and wrong position (green)
One digit display for the number of tries
One increment button for each digit
One GUESS button
One STORE button for new code
Switch debouncing using 555 timers or one shot multivibrators
Master reset button
thank you very much i would really appreciate it if you would respond with this post...
djmudslide (/member/djmudslide/)
hey amigo... he intentado tu circuito con un amigo, y tenemos multiples fallas! ...ser
posible q envies algo de info extra a mi correo? irv_c45@hotmail.com... sobre todo
los mapas de conexiones, tengo dudas sobre los puentes q aparecen en el primer
mapa, y si existe una sustitucion de los diodos, o cual funcion cumplen (le como un
OR)... gracias d ante mano!
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) djmudslide
listo amigo, revisa tu correo
electronico, te he enviado una
respuesta a tu comentario, si tienes
mas dudas, no dudes en contactarme,
suerte con el proyecto..
no he subido mas proyectos, por que
actualmente estoy dedicandome a
aprender mas sobre
microcontroladores y PLC...
mark16 (/member/mark16/) Nino123
can i have a complete circuit connection of this project where all the circuits in
the step by step process are connected? i already made a simulation of this
circuit but it happened that there is nothing on the display i just wanna ask why
is that so... thanks
awsomehighvoltage (/member/awsomehighvoltage/)
why is there a white led there in the middle?
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) awsomehighvoltage
oh, that led!.. dont worry its not
important at all...
I just connected it in the same spot as
the first display clock, so i can always
know wich is the next digit, (the first or
second display), its just a visual aid to
so i wont loose track of where the next
number will appear, but it doesnt affect
or improves the sistem
winzoque (/member/winzoque/) Nino123
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hello to the creator of this digital combination lock i think that this project was
great...just want to ask something from your first step...i am having a problem
with the switch "9" ,why is it the number "9" switch is not working in me, it
keeps displaying number "8", so i want to ask if there is some problem with
your schematic diagram from your first step, your fifth diode from the top. the
one that is connected from the nineth switch connecting binary bit "A".
winzoque (/member/winzoque/)
hello to the creator of this digital combination lock i think that this project was
great...just want to ask something from your first step...i am having a problem with the
switch "9" ,why is it the number "9" switch is not working in me, it keeps displaying
number "8", so i want to ask if there is some problem with your schematic diagram
from your first step, your fifth diode from the top. the one that is connected from the
nineth switch connecting binary bit "A".
Gopesh gopu (/member/Gopesh+gopu/)
ma chudayo tum
nikitasamsukha (/member/nikitasamsukha/)
nice
Uranio23 (/member/Uranio23/)
Hola que tal veo que este proyecto lo hiciste hace tiempo, tengo algunas dudas, me
estoy "inspirando" en tu circuito para hacer un proyecto de electronica, no nos dejan
usar micro ni nada de eso puras compuertas y cosas basicas.
Me preguntaba si podrias darme mas info sobre el circuito, mi problema esta a la
hora de querer hacerlo de 4 numeros la clave, no se como cambiar de memoria
cada que pulso un boton... Tu lo haces con el J-K pero como seria para 4 ?
Gracias y espero que puedas responder
EngineeringShock (/member/EngineeringShock/)
Nice
The LS7220 or LS7222 chips are designed so
that you can do the majority of this, minus the
displays. I remember when I did this project
from scratch. I designed it very similarily.
=)
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) EngineeringShock
yeah, i think that the best part of
building something like this
{designing everything from scratch} is
the excitment of the adventure...
having your first design problems,
having to do research to solve them,
{and probably go nuts for a few days
till you get it}...
as i mentioned around the begining, i
was trying to use the most basic logic
posible, you know, it was when i just
completed my first digital electronics
course, and most of the IC you could
normally order online werent avaliable
around here, {thank to Steren, now
we got lots of IC and cool stuff
cheaper and faster than before}..
(/member/3nigmat1c/)
4 years ago
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(/member/AndrewGarza/)
4 years ago
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(/member/amando96/)
4 years ago
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(/member/HarveyH44/)
4 years ago
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(/member/Nino123/)
4 years ago
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anyway, i built it so much time ago...
and now i perfectly know how to use
uControllers, {PICs}.. so, everything
could be controlled from a single
chip...
but it was a nice first project...
now i look back at this, and feel a little
bit homesick, but proud to have
learned so much since then, and
willing to keep learning!
ps. thanks for the IC number :D
3nigmat1c (/member/3nigmat1c/)
It may or may not be interesting, but use of a CD74hc4511 chip will free up a lot of
board space (it's a all in one 7-segment to bcd decoder with flip flop and latch). That
way you can support up to 7 displays with a chip per segment and a single 8-3
multiplexer. That can easily go from 7 to 15 with an additional multiplexer and only
need 4 lines for data (always), and 3 lines for addressing (1 extra per new
multiplexer).
Nice project, this was very similar to the Digital Systems final Project I had to do in
college.
AndrewGarza (/member/AndrewGarza/)
Impressive. I always wanted to make a clock out of low level logic like this. Just
seems like a lot of work. It is amazing how much easier/cheaper using a micro
controller for something like this.
amando96 (/member/amando96/) AndrewGarza
indeed, arduino + keypad, + seven
segment displays and some code...
thats actually my next project, for a
weather station.
HarveyH44 (/member/HarveyH44/)
Quite an impressive job, both the project and the write up. The only project I ever
attempted like that on a breadboard, was a digital clock, which kept terrible time. It
took months to wire up, and figure out what went wrong. I've since switched to
microcontrollers. So much easier to debug code, and you can take it anywhere to
work on.
Might also look into making PCB at home. It's not very expensive, and pretty easy
with a laser printer. Although, got a hunch your project would still take sometime to
layout, and drilling so many holes...
Really nice work, though don't imagine very many people will build this, maybe a class
project.
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) HarveyH44
thanks, and yeah, i used this as my
final proyect in school, you see im
currently a 11th grade student here in
Acua, Mexico(Cbtis 54! arriba
chivos bravos!)...
so I still dont know how to use
microcontrollers (will be seen on
12th), so I used everything i knew so
far.
And yeah, microcontroller look really
cool, so cant wait to try them!!
which one will be the best for a
(/member/ElmoRoyD/)
4 years ago
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(/member/Nino123/)
4 years ago
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(/member/thatoneguydavid/)
4 years ago
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4 years ago
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(/member/LuminousObject/)
4 years ago
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(/member/Udon/)
4 years ago
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beginner like me?, PIC, AUDRINO,
AVR?...
ElmoRoyD (/member/ElmoRoyD/) Nino123
Saludos desde Monterrey, yo soy de
Sabinas y estudie en el CBTIS 20
hace ya rato. Es bueno ver gente de
la regin entrando a estas cosas
Nino123 (/member/Nino123/) (author) ElmoRoyD
claro que si amigo, yo tambien
estaba arto de ver muy pocos
trabajos echos por compaeros
mexicanos, y pense "pues no keda
otra mas que poner manos a la obra"
y asi fue coomo empeze, ultimamente
he estado algo ocupado por eso no
he podido seguir pero pronto
continuare con los proyectos...
thatoneguydavid (/member/thatoneguydavid/) Nino123
i would suggest Cypress
Semiconductor PSoC -3
(programmable system on chip) with a
little practice writing C you can
implement really complex systems with
very few external components. they
take an FPGA and various analog
circuits and wrap them up with a
microprocessor on one chip.
drhoff (/member/drhoff/) Nino123
I agree with Luminous. Arduino is really great for beginners. If you can make
a project like this, then you will have no trouble with it at all. Great Instructible.
LuminousObject (/member/LuminousObject/) Nino123
For a beginner, I would definitely
suggest Arduino. You just plug it into
the computer and go. No need for any
fancy programmers or any of that. Just
a USB port and a cable.
peblairman (/member/peblairman/)
Great job! Not trying to flame it or anything, but it looks kinda like a bomb lol
Udon (/member/Udon/)
This is really good! It's a lot of info to put together.
I'm starting a Digital Electronics course in Feb. so I'd love to try build this.
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