{the cut}

Fashion Moments.................34
Best in Show..............................36
Labelled........................................38
Icon.................................................38
Fashion Feature.......................39
 Shorts

Shaikh Majed Al-Sabah Steps

Down
Kuwaiti retailer Shaikh Majed
Al-Sabah said on Wednesday he
would step down as chairman of
Villa Moda. He cited “differences of
opinion for the brand’s future” with
its majority shareholder, the Dubai
International Financial Centre. Ac-
cording to Women’s Wear Daily,
Al-Sabah plans to devote himself to
new retail projects in the region.

Marchesa Bags It
Georgina Chapman, designer of
the dress label Marchesa, will pres-
ent her first bag collection on Sep-
tember 16 in New York. Chapman
told Women’s Wear Daily that she
designed her bags much like her
dresses, with draping, beading and
rosettes as accoutrements. After
all, what would a Marchesa piece be
without rosettes? (Boutique 1, 04-
4257888)

Just Not Posh Enough Not Just a Label

Contrary to popular belief, Victoria
Beckham is still not good enough
to grace the cover of US Vogue. Ru-
mours proved false as Posh turned
up on the cover of the October issue
of Elle looking as though she was
constructed out of Lego. Subtler
tan + breast reduction = possible
Vogue cover? (www.elle.com)
Too often, fashionistas get caught
up in names — that’s where Not
Just A Label can help. The online
shop is dedicated to unknown de-
signers and one-offs. Each month,
the site features a different person-
ality who curates a collection based
on the site’s offerings. This month,
rising star model Lara Stone acts as
stylist. (www.notjustalabel.com)

{Great Fashion Moments}

Truman Capote’s Black and White Ball

The colourful writer Truman Capote hosted Frank Sinatra, Mia Farrow, CZ
Guest, Henry Ford, Lynda Bird Johnson, Gianni Agnelli, Arthur Schlesinger
and Gloria Guinness, in addition to 540 of society’s movers and shakers in an
elaborate party at New York’s Plaza Hotel in 1966. The invite-only party, said
to be in honour of Washington Post publisher Kay Graham but really to pub-
licise the host’s riveting book In Cold Blood, symbolised an era pulsing with
a sense of modernity, while remaining true to the traditions of old Hollywood
glamour. Capote mixed stars from the social and entertainment realms with
w./the cut/11.09.2009/Laura Gatsos

political heavyweights. Known for being notoriously media savvy, Truman

invited the press to document the event for the world to see. The theme was
black and white and attendees were advised to wear masks to add some mys-
tery to the event. As such, hair became an outlet of expression for women. At-
tended exclusively by the beautiful people, it was Penelope Tree who stole the
night. More undressed than dressed in a flowing black tunic and form-fitting
tights, her entrance signaled the presence of a new generation. Fashion pho-
tographers Cecil Beaton and Richard Avedon were so enchanted, they con-
spired on the spot to turn her into a cover girl — which is what she became.

34
 Best in Show

Matteo Marzotto Erin Wasson

Dashingly handsome, Matteo Marzotto wears a mid-
night blue silk lapelled black tux with a red silk pocket
square for a little colour. His double-breasted vest is
a departure from the classic, but it goes well with his
bow-tie and tuxedo shirt.
Model Erin Wasson attends the Opening Ceremony
launch in Tokyo wearing leopard print, mid-length
shorts and a plain jersey tank. The accessories punch
up the outfit, as she layers multiple necklaces and
bracelets to transition the look from summer to fall.

Chien Vivant pet beds

Let’s face it: most people consider their pet a member of the family,
Objects of Desire

so why shouldn’t our furry friends be relieved of the hard floor and
given a soft spot to rest their heads just like the rest of us? Chien Vi-
vant, the high-end purveyor of all things pet-related, is offering a col-
lection of 14 new couture beds ranging in price from $1,500 to $1,800.
w./the cut/11.09.2009/ Laura Gatsos

The beds have sophisticated French names, such as Le Bijou, Napo-

lione and Marsilles, and have that certain je ne sais quoi to back it up.
Crafted from fine materials such as silk velvet, crushed velvet, faux
leather and suede and adorned with crystal bows, jewels and medal-
lions, these beds are for the pet owner who really wants to show their
puppy love. As if providing your pooch with a designer bed was not
enough, Chien Vivant will personalise the bed by monogramming
the headboard with Swarovski crystals. Chien Vivant is definitely a
dog’s best friend. (www.chienvivant.com)

36
 Labelled

Elizabeth & James

While often in the press for their weight issues and
romantic dalliances, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen
are collectively a consumer goods powerhouse who
learned very early in their careers that they were
marketable. Founders and now controlling partners
of their company, Dualstar Entertainment Group,
Mary-Kate and Ashley are notoriously reclusive. The
adorable twins have opened up a little, sharing their
sartorial taste with the public through their clothing
lines Elizabeth & James, The Row and E&J. Always
passionate about dressing, the twin sisters launched
Elizabeth & James in 2007. Their design approach is
to bring a couture sensibility to the contemporary
customer, fusing uptown and downtown NYC, mas-
culine and feminine and casual and dressy. Signature
elements include the menswear-inspired blazer and
dress shirt, delicate mini-dresses, detailing, skinny
pants, sequins and unusual fabrics. Their eclectic
style is evident throughout the line — washed leather
jackets and mini-skirts, twill military-inspired tops
and supersoft shrunken and oversize T-shirts can be
seen simultaneously on the twins and on the racks in
the finest department stores worldwide. Unlike ce-
lebrities who merely lend their names to a label, the
Olsens are heavily involved in designing. (Elizabeth &
James is sold at Boutique 1, 04-425 7888)

{ Icon}

Anna dello Russo

She has a presence on almost every blog dedicated to
fashion and style, and she is one of The Sartorialist's
most photographed subjects. Granted, she has the
enormous budget it requires to dress in couture daily,
but Russo also has the inherent knack for putting an
outfit together. Be it fringes, feathers, bold colours,
extreme shoulders or cocktail dresses in broad day-
light, the fashion director-at-large for Vogue Nip-
pon always looks fabulous. Usually donning a look
straight off the runway, Russo pays careful attention
to accessories — her perennial favourites include
vertiginous heels (she has more than 4,000 pairs) by
Azzedine Alaia, Christian Louboutin and Balenciaga
and statement jewellery by Bulgari. Russo’s approach
to dressing can be characterised as fearless — she is
not afraid to wear the most avant-garde creations on
the street. Her enthusiasm for dressing and the un-
abashed pleasure she takes in discovering designers,
is an inspiration to those who follow fashion. One
w./the cut/11.09.2009/ Laura Gatsos

blogger noted “she makes me want to try a little hard-

er, be a little bolder and take more risks.” Russo hap-
pily admits that she has an obsession with fashion,
as evidenced by the glass enclosure in which she dis-
plays her favourite shoes. She also keeps a separate
apartment exclusively for her clothing, where every-
thing is tagged and enveloped as she dreams of one
day holding her own exhibition — most of us would
prefer a private sale.

38
 Modelling in Dubai

A
s Dubai has grown into a global
metropolis and become a re-
gional hub for the media, fash-
ion and advertising industries,

Sitting a need for local models has

arisen. As befits such a multi-cultural city,

Pretty
Dubai offers opportunities for a more di-
verse range of models than the old-guard
fashion capitals of Europe.
“In London, you start your modelling
career at 13 and you’re an old model at 22
or 23,” says Eliza Galbraith, head of book-
w./cut/11.09.2009

ing at Bareface. “Out here in Dubai, you’ve

Georgina Wilson-Powell explores got more of a chance of becoming a catwalk
and fashion model as Dubai doesn’t adhere
the world of modelling in Dubai to the size zero figure that is popular in oth-

39
 w./cut/11.09.2009

40

er cities. It’s easier to be still working
if you don’t fit an exact mould and
you work longer. There are models
here working in their 30s.”
Despite the stereotypes com-
monly ascribed to models, not all of
the women on Bareface’s books are
leggy, blonde, thin waifs; in fact, they
are in the minority.
The agency has separate divi-
sions to reflect the diverse demand
in Dubai for all types of people. It
does have the top end — the girls
who might grace the cover of Harp-
ers’ Bazaar or who go on to strut the
catwalks of Europe — but the pool is
relatively small.
“We have what we call ‘models
one’, which is the high end fashion
girls. Then we have what we call
‘models two’, which has less strict
restrictions and is for more com-
mercial and lifestyle work,” Gal-
braith says. “In Dubai, there’s far
more of this type of job so as some-
one placed in models two, you might
actually get more work.
“We have a division called ‘cast
and kids’ and then we have our en-
tertainers section, which includes
everyone from jugglers to dancers
and singers.”
This categorisation is necessary
for the agency as there is a growing
demand in the region for all types
of models with all types of skills. As
Dubai and Abu Dhabi increasingly
play an important part in staging
global events or act as locations for
various film and TV projects, the de-
mand for local people to fill model-
ling or acting roles increases.
It’s this kind of demand that
means Bareface has a wide range of
models — one that expands beyond
the choice of blondes or brunettes
weakly offered up as proof of diver-
sity on many runways.
“We have lots of Arabic men on
our books,” reveals Galbraith. “We
have lots of people who are perfect
for extras work in films and com-
mercial shoots, who are just normal
people, and we have a huge num-
ber of older Arabic guys who play
grandfather roles in TV adverts or
corporate videos.
They love coming in and doing a
bit of acting — it’s such a different
experience from their normal job.
Modelling in Dubai
We’re always looking for new kids
who can act or photograph well,
too.”
Mikaela Rijkmans was one such
kid. Originally from South Africa,
she’s now 16 years old but started
modelling when she was only two.
“I’ve been mostly cast for editorials,
but I would love to work more over-
seas. Modelling can have really long
hours and it’s hard sitting still, but
it’s great meeting different people.
The best shoot so far was for Cartier
— it was such good fun.”
Galbraith says running an agency
in the Middle East also comes with
unique challenges.
“We do have to be very proactive
outside the models one division as
a lot of people don’t even realise we
exist, especially Lebanese or Arabic
families, who are always in demand
‘If we see any
potential Arabic
models, then we
always take time
to talk to the fam-
ily and respect any
cultural concerns,’
says Eliza Gal-
braith, Bareface
amongst our clients.
“If we see any potential Arabic
models, then we always take time to
talk to the family and make sure they
realise what is involved and respect
any cultural concerns.
“Any model, no matter what divi-
sion, has to have their parents’ con-
sent if they are under 21.”
As Dubai is home to so many cul-
tures, Bareface’s models often need
to have a Middle Eastern look, even
if they are not from the region.
Many South American models
double for Middle Eastern ones,
but this can lead to problems with
speaking parts if Arabic is needed.
Claire Webb, a Canadian model
with Bareface with West Indian and
British parents, has made her multi-
cultural versatility work for her
over the last 10 years. She’s now 32
and has worked on a range of com-
mercial projects, including adverts
alongside heart throbs George Cloo-
ney and Antonio Banderas.
“I’ve worked with beauty brands
like MAC and Nivea, on glossy
magazine shoots, with companies
like Emirates Airlines...all sorts,” she
explains. “I thought I would try it for
a while after studying finance, but I
fell in love with modelling.
“It can be a lucrative career with
travel opportunities, flexible hours
and social networking. I’ll never for-
get working with Antonio Banderas
on a TV commercial for his cologne.
It was amazing to work with such a
skilled actor, and in between takes he
even taught me his tango moves.”
As well as scouting in malls, at
drama groups and productions like
the recent High School Musical,
Bareface receives a lot of applica-
tions through its website and Face-
book group.
The team have noticed a rise
in applications since Tyra Banks’
America’s Next Top Model show
has become so popular, with region-
al variations flooding prime time TV.
It’s no surprise really, as the show
reveals a lifestyle and career that for
many girls all over the world, is very
appealing.
“It has made a difference. Every-
one is obsessed with reality TV and
everyone thinks they can be a mod-
el. It is great for us that lots of people
now get in touch and there’s a much
wider understanding of what mod-
els are required to do, which wasn’t
there a few years ago.
“But now everyone wants to be fa-
mous and it’s a hard fact that there
is a lot of rejection in this industry,”
says Galbraith.
“Telling a girl she’s not right for
models one, but is perfect for mod-
els two can be tough sometimes, but
if someone wants to be a model then
they need to develop thick skin.”
There are plenty of applications
that don’t get accepted, from friends
of a scouted teenager to parents
w./cut/11.09.2009
sending in photos of their children,
or just people that don’t fit the mould
that Bareface’s clients are after.
European looking models, ie peo-
41
 CATWALK DIVA: French model Sixtine
Duprez

‘You have to place

yourself in a dif-
ferent world to
make the job work.
When the whole
team is happy, I
think I did my job
well,’ says Irene
van Ruitenburg

ple with blonde hair and blue eyes,

might be popular in Europe, but
here in Dubai, the demand is very
small. Plenty of stunning European
girls get turned down, not because
they’re not good enough, but be-
cause they’re not suitable.
“People forget that just because
you are beautiful, or you think your
child is the best looking child ever,
doesn’t mean that they will pho-
tograph well. Being photogenic is
something completely different,”
says Galbraith.
Modelling in Dubai, unlike the
modelling in America’s Next Top
Model, is not all designer dresses,
parties and Jimmy Choos. Far from
it. Modelling is hard work and even
once accepted by an agency, models
have to get used to a lot of rejection,
no matter which division they end
up in at Bareface.
“Anyone interested in this indus-
try should realise that it is a hard in-
dustry to work in and should expect
a level of rejection,” says Galbraith.
“You might go to 25 castings and
only get one job.
“The rejection is huge, and there
are hundreds of girls competing all
the time. You have to be tough, be on
it all the time and be hard working.”
No matter what type of model,
however, there are some qualities
that all top models have. There’s a
lot more to it than just a good smile
and sitting still.
Helena Christensen famously
w./cut/11.09.2009

said, “When you are modelling, you

are creating a picture, a still life, per-
haps something like a silent film.
You convey emotion but you are

42
 Modelling in Dubai

RISING STAR: South African model Mikaela

Rijkmans

only using your body.”

Galbraith says from an agency
point of view, there are other quali-
ties below the surface that bookers
will look for.
“A good model is loyal, outgo-
ing and friendly. A lot of it is about
personality — you’re dealing with
make-up artists, stylists, hairdress-
ers and you need to be able to deal
with them all professionally. Then
there’s the direction. A successful
model must be able to take direction
from the photographer and listen to
everything he wants them to do and
to portray.”
Model Irene van Ruitenburg
agrees, “You have to place yourself
in a different world to make the
job work.” Originally from Holland,
Ruitenburg has been modelling for
eight years. “When the whole team
is happy and working well together,
then I think I did my job well.”
However, whilst Dubai’s model-
ling industry is growing, it’s a far cry
from the kind of market where girls
won’t get out of bed for less than
$10,000 a day. Most models in Dubai
work part-time.
“I work as a marketing director for
real estate company Engel & Vickers
in Abu Dhabi,” says Sixtine Duprez,
a French catwalk model who has
been modelling for nine years. “But
modelling gave me the confidence
to go and do that; you meet so many
new people and have so many expe-
riences. I love working during fash-
ion week.
“It’s just amazing with all the dif-
ferent layouts and the tension be-
fore a show.”
But what about the boys? “A lot of
the male models are cabin crew with
airlines and many people have regu-
lar jobs,” says Galbraith.
“There’s not enough work out
here yet for most models to be full
time and there’s no concept of exclu-
sivity so everyone works freelance,
often signed to several agencies,
which makes our job harder.
“In Paris or New York, models are
exclusive to agencies which means
the agencies can guarantee a better
w./cut/11.09.2009

wage for the model and there is an

official or non-official industry stan-
dard.
“Out here, there’s no such thing

43
Modelling in Dubai

MODEL CITIZEN: Head of Booking,

Bareface,Eliza Galbraith

and clients still believe that they

can get an entire commercial
shot for money that elsewhere
wouldn’t even cover the photog-
rapher, let alone anything else. It’s
tough going sometimes, but it is
improving.”
With Dubai Fashion week in
October and an autumn line-up
including the Abu Dubai Grand
Prix and the Dubai International
Film Festival, demand for Bare-
face’s models is at an all time high.
But for those who are interested in
getting into modelling, remember
it’s not all about looking good. De-
termination, ambition and a thick
skin are just as important.
wknd@khaleejtimes.com