1) On modern shuttleless weaving machines, creating a firm selvedge requires more yarn and is technically complex compared to conventional shuttle looms.
2) Sulzer Textil has developed new methods and devices that reduce both the operating costs and yarn waste of selvedge formation on weaving machines.
3) These include a Waste Saver gripper that eliminates the need for an auxiliary selvedge, reducing yarn waste by 40%, and a Selvedge Saver that removes auxiliary selvedges from projectile looms, lowering yarn usage by 35%.
1) On modern shuttleless weaving machines, creating a firm selvedge requires more yarn and is technically complex compared to conventional shuttle looms.
2) Sulzer Textil has developed new methods and devices that reduce both the operating costs and yarn waste of selvedge formation on weaving machines.
3) These include a Waste Saver gripper that eliminates the need for an auxiliary selvedge, reducing yarn waste by 40%, and a Selvedge Saver that removes auxiliary selvedges from projectile looms, lowering yarn usage by 35%.
1) On modern shuttleless weaving machines, creating a firm selvedge requires more yarn and is technically complex compared to conventional shuttle looms.
2) Sulzer Textil has developed new methods and devices that reduce both the operating costs and yarn waste of selvedge formation on weaving machines.
3) These include a Waste Saver gripper that eliminates the need for an auxiliary selvedge, reducing yarn waste by 40%, and a Selvedge Saver that removes auxiliary selvedges from projectile looms, lowering yarn usage by 35%.
pressed ai r. To accompl i sh thi s, the weft has to be cut off fol l owi ng i nser ti on, so that i t can be fed to the i nser ti on el ement agai n. Thi s i n tur n r esul ts i n a weft end extendi ng beyond the fabri c border both on the l eft and on the r i ght. Tr i mmi ng the ends to a uni for m l ength i s not a probl em, but poi nt- l ess because ther e i s nothi ng to r etai n the war p ends at the fabr i c bor der, so the fabr i c coul d easi l y fr ay. To pr event thi s, the bor der i s str engthened wi th one or mor e pai rs of l eno threads. The fi ne l eno threads, made of hi gh-tensi l e pol y- ester twi st, ar e l ooped ar ound the weft ends i n such a way that they can no l onger sl i p off, and thus a non-sl i p sel vedge i s cr eated (Fi g. 2 I ). New technol ogi es devel - oped by Sul zer Texti l r educe both the cost of sel vedge formati on and the wastage i nvol ved. Wi th val u- abl e r aw mater i al s, i n par ti cul ar, thi s resul ts i n substanti al savi ngs (Fi g. 3 I ). AVOIDABLE WASTE I n pr acti ce, the pai r s of l eno threads at the fabri c border are not suffi ci ent to ensure a neat, durabl e sel vedge and correct weft i nserti on on shuttl el ess weavi ng machi nes; so-cal l ed auxi l i ar y sel vedges ar e al so needed on both si des of the fabr i c, and addi ti onal war p ends and l eno thr eads ar e r equi r ed for these auxi l i ar y sel vedges. Si nce the auxi l i ar y sel vedges i ncr ease the wor ki ng wi dth, the weft al so has to be l onger (Fi g. 4 I ). The aux- i l i ar y sel vedges ar e cut off whi l e the fabr i c i s sti l l on the machi ne and thus become waste, consi sti ng of (pol yester ) l eno thr eads, war p ends and weft threads, i .e. a mate- r i al mi x, consi sti ng for i nstance of pol yester and the base materi al of the fabr i c wool , cotton, etc.). As a S UL ZER TECHNI CAL REVI EW 1 / 9 9 17 FRITZ LEGLER SULZER TEXTIL A firm, strong selvedge is extremely important not only when producing fabrics, but also in their subsequent treatment. On modern, shuttleless weaving machines, selvedge formation is usually a costly item. I t was this that prompted Sulzer Textil to develop methods and devices for its weaving machines which reduce both operating costs and yarn wastage. I On conventi onal shuttl e l ooms, a str ong sel vedge i s cr eated automati cal l y. The weft whi ch i s i nser ted i s pr acti cal l y endl ess. At the border of the fabri c i t changes di r ecti on, and thi s resul ts i n the formati on of a strong sel vedge (Fi g. 1 I ). Modern, shuttl e- l ess weavi ng machi nes, on the oth- er hand, achi eve thei r hi gh perfor- mance by i nser ti ng the weft i nto 1 I On modern, shuttleless weaving machines, the creation of a firm selvedge consumes more yarn and is technically more complex than on conventional shuttle looms (figure). Shuttles with yarn packages Weft ends Warp ends 3830 New Technology to Reduce Yarn Wastage 2 I Structure of a cut selvedge utilizing the leno method. The special crossing technique results in a non-slip selvedge. For especially slip-proof selvedges and smooth yarns the full-cross technique is used. r ul e, i mpur e waste of thi s ki nd cannot be put thr ough any r ecy- cl i ng process. VALUABLE RAW MATERIALS SAVED The Sul zer Texti l G6200 r api er weavi ng machi ne i s used pr i mar i - l y to pr oduce hi gh-qual i ty and i ntr i catel y patter ned fabr i cs for mens and womens outer wear, from wool l en and other hi gh-grade yar ns. Unti l now, auxi l i ar y sel vedges, as descr i bed above, were needed to create a neat mai n sel vedge on the r api er weavi ng machi ne. Now, however, thanks to a recentl y devel oped weft gri ppi ng devi ce, the Waste Saver, the l eft auxi l i ar y sel vedge can be di s- pensed wi th (Fi g. 4 I ). Thi s speci al , contr ol l ed devi ce takes over the functi on of the auxi l i ar y sel vedge. To ensur e cor r ect tr ansfer of the weft thr ead to the gr i pper head, the Waste Saver i s contr ol l ed by a l i near motor and synchr oni zed wi th col our sel ecti on. Due to system desi gn, the r i ght- hand auxi l i ary sel vedge i s sti l l nec- essary. However, the el i mi nati on of the l eft auxi l i ar y sel vedge means that about 37 mm of thr ead per weft i nserti on are saved. Together wi th the savi ng i n war p and l eno threads, the total quanti ty of waste i s r educed by some 40%. Over the year, thi s savi ng of about 37 mm per weft thr ead thus r esul ts i n a substanti al r educti on i n waste. Wi th a fi ne wor sted fabr i c, for exampl e, ar ound 200 kg of yar n a year can be saved by reduci ng weft wastage, and wi th excl usi ve camel - hai r fabr i cs for l adi es coats as much as 800 kg. Dependi ng on the r aw mater i al , these savi ngs can r esul t i n a substanti al cost r educ- ti on (Fi g. 3 I ). ELIMINATING AUXILIARY SELVEDGES For techni cal r easons, the tr i ed- and-tr usted, waste-fr ee tucked sel vedge cannot be used when pro- duci ng heavy, densel y woven fab- ri cs, e.g. deni m, on projecti l e weav- i ng machi nes. Sel vedge for mati on wi th l eno thr eads, as descr i bed i n the foregoi ng, i s therefore used for thi s type of fabri c, and so, depend- 18 S UL ZER TECHNI CAL REVI EW 1 / 9 9 Warp ends Weft ends Leno threads 3 I The single-humped Arabian dromedary is one supplier of camel hair as a raw material for textiles. Given the differences in the prices of such raw materials, it obviously makes good sense to economize wherever possible. 1 Cotton 2 Merino wool 3 Alpaka 4 Camel 5 Extra fine camel 6 Fine cashmere Selvedge with half-cross leno Selvedge with full-cross leno 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 0 20 40 60 80 P r i c e
o f
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m a t e r i a l
C H F / k g 1 2 3 1 2 3 i ng on the si ze of the weavi ng faci l - i ty, substanti al quanti ti es of waste may be generated. A new type of sel vedge for mati on has now been devel oped whi ch al l ows the auxi l i ar y sel vedges on both si des of the fabri c to be el i mi - nated. A new weft end gri pper, the Sel vedge Saver, cl amps the weft end fol l owi ng i nser ti on. Extr actor nozzl es on the l eft- and ri ght-hand bor der s of the fabr i c hol d the weft ends so that they can be neatl y tr i mmed and si mul taneousl y extr acted (Fi g. 5 I ). The auxi l i ar y sel vedges on the ri ght and l eft are no l onger needed, r esul ti ng i n a 35% r educti on i n weft yar n wastage al one. At the same ti me, effi ci ency and qual i ty ar e i m- pr oved by the r educti on i n war p stoppages, and output i s i ncreased by better uti l i zati on of the avai l - abl e worki ng wi dth. Appr oxi matel y two-thi r ds of al l deni m pr oduced i n the wor l d i s woven on Sul zer Texti l pr ojecti l e weavi ng machi nes. Wi th the Sel vedge Saver, some 350 kg of yarn are saved annual l y per weav- i ng machi ne i n the pr oducti on of standar d deni m fabr i cs. I n an average-si zed deni m weavi ng faci l - i ty wi th 100 weavi ng machi nes, thi s r educes the amount of yar n used by around 35 metri c tons. PRESERVING VALUABLE INVESTMENTS The devi ces descri bed here are al so avai l abl e as r etr ofi tti ng ki ts for Sul zer Texti l pr ojecti l e and r api er weavi ng machi nes. Thr ough i ts extensi ve ser vi ce networ k, Sul zer 4 I Comparison of selvedge formation on rapier weaving machines. Above: conventional, with two auxiliary selvedges. Below: with controlled Waste Saver weft gripping device. S UL ZER TECHNI CAL REVI EW 1 / 9 9 19 All dimensions in mm 5 I Comparison of selvedge formation on projectile weaving machines. Left, with auxiliary selvedge; right, without. Eliminating the auxiliary selvedges also eliminates the need for creels for the leno and selvedge yarns, thus making the machine more user-friendly. 30 2030 8 8 4 Fabric width 4 2535 8 Fabric width Leno threads Auxiliary selvedges Auxiliary selvedges Auxiliary selvedges Linear motor Waste Saver 4 Leno threads Texti l supports i ts customers wi th l i fe-cycl e engi neer i ng i n weavi ng machi ne servi ce and mai ntenance, and offer s new pr oduct enhance- ments and accessor i es whi ch can be retrofi tted. Retrofi tti ng i s possi - bl e even on machi nes that have been i n ser vi ce for 20 year s or more. Thus we hel p to ensure that fashi on fabr i cs and standar d weaves can be pr oduced economi - cal l y even on these machi nes, thus gr eatl y extendi ng thei r ser vi ce l i ves. Dependi ng on the r ange of pr oducts woven, the r etr ofi tti ng i nvestment may pay for i tsel f wi th- i n a few months. F OR MORE DE TAI L S Sul zer Texti l AG Fri tz Legl er, 9091 CH-8630 Ruti Swi tzerl and Tel ephone +41 (0)55-250 23 30 Fax +41 (0)55-250 21 45 E-mai l fri tz.l egl er@sul zer.ch 9096 0310 9096 0311
Theory of Silk Weaving
A Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves, and the Decomposition and Calculation of Broad and Narrow, Plain, Novelty and Jacquard Silk Fabrics