The Online Warhammer

40k Magazine
 This is the first issue of The Battle Record! All Name of Staff Member Job
of us here on the team hope that you enjoy
and learn from this new magazine stuffed with Simon Thornton Founder, Writer, Editor
all good hobby, gaming and tactic articles.
Tim Davis Artist, Writer, Editor
 This is issue is a massive... pages long and
consists of...
Rune Reinås Writer, Editor

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 Hobby Sector: Getting Started........................4
 Codex: Daemons............................................6
 Tim’s Tactics: Hugging Fish...........................7
 TigerShark AX-1-0........................................9 6

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 A Desk
 The first thing that any serious hobbyist needs
to buy (or acquire) is an area where you can
paint, glue and convert. This usually takes
physical form in a desk! Choosing a desk is
not difficult so long as you have the space for
it. Simply don’t buy anything expensive; it’s
going to take a beating! Whether it’s from
paint, glue, knife scratches or water spills your
desk will inevitably get damaged eventually.
This is why you must take the time to look for
a cheap desk from Wal-Mart, Ikea or another
huge retailer.
 If you do not have space for a full desk then it
is worth considering one of the GW (Games
Workshop) Paint Stations. It has a space for
paintbrushes, water cups and a shelf for
miniatures or paints. The downside of them is
that they clutter way too fast!
 Painting Supplies
 After you have bought your desk and have
created an environment that suits you, you
should buy some painting and modelling
supplies. Modelling is not so hard to cater for;
all you need is some super glue, a hobby
knife, cutting pad, hobby drill, plastic glue,
clippers and some green stuff (we will cover GS
in later issues). Purchasing painting supplies
however cannot be rushed and you must find
the tools that suit you so that your army is as
well painted as you can make it. Most people
find the Games Workshop tools fine to begin
with and some even use their tools after a few
years of experience.
 Paint Brushes
 This is the most useful tool that you will ever
purchase and if you take good care of a great
brush it will last a very long time and will be
more enjoyable to use. A good brush will give
you more control over where you apply the
paint and how much you apply to where you
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 want it.
One simple thing to remember is too never wash
your brush with hot or warm water! This will loosen
the substance which holds the hairs onto the metal
part and will result in the bristles coming off!
Needless to say, we don’t want that. When looking
to buy a brush you mustn't judge how good the
brush is by how good the models are that are sold
in the same shop. Often they do not pay as much
attention to their brushes as they do to their
models.
The best paint brushes for miniatures are
made by Windsor Newton they do however cost
quite some money so please take care of it if you
do buy one. If you cannot purchase one of these
brushes and can only buy a miniature companies
brush buy a Reaper Miniatures brush. They are (in
short) the best. When purchasing a brush be
prepared to spend a lot of time searching for the
right one and make sure it is the best available in
your price range.
 Paint
 Most people prefer to use citadel (GW) paints,
this is mostly because they are the most
available paints and are often referred to in
“how to paint...” articles. When using these
paints (or any other miniature) paints always
water them down until they are at the
consistency of milk. This will result in smooth
paint jobs with no streaks or splodges.
Remember also to shake each paint pot
thoroughly before use; this will make sure that
the paint does not separate.
 The other paint company that you might hear
of is Vallejo. They are (to put it simply) just
another brand of miniature paint. Some people
say that they are of better quality, others
disagree. Really all that you have to know is
that they are different companies. Trying both
is the only way that you can find out which you
prefer.
 -Si-
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 April and May sees the long awaited release of
Codex Daemons. First of all we must clarify
that Daemons cannot be used in the same
force as Chaos Space Marines. They cannot ally
with chaos unless you are playing an
apocalypse game.
 Overall the models are great! They are well
sculpted and do look quite convincing,
however many gamers are still not sure how
this new codex will fit into the Warhammer
40k universe. A new codex is always exciting
though! At present nobody knows much
information about the codex so I will stop
blabbering on and will show some pictures!

 -Si-

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You’ve all seen the unmistakable Fish of fury tactic. Can
really hurt when you’re on the receiving end of it, can’t
it?
Or when you use it. You deal a deadly blow into enemy
lines, striking where they are weakest and presumably
crumbling there battle plans.
I’m here to help you improve this tactic; to make it
harder, meaner, deadlier and any other words you can
associate with death.
Firstly we have our bog standard squad of Fire warriors.
In my eyes they are pants, I field a mere six in my army
but for this tactic to work, we need twelve. Or maybe
eight; even numbers are better for working out half
strength and objective snatching.
Now if your going to have Fire warriors in your army the
least you can do is equip them properly for all the
horrors of the fore coming battle they’re about to fight.
I equip mine with their standard issue Pulse rifle, nice
strength, range and AP. Sure you can equip some with
Carbines, true they have pinning but they are only
assault 1, two shots are always better than one in my
eyes.
So you’ve got your weapon, next comes your leader, the
+1 attack and Leadership are totally worth the points,
so take him for this tactic. Next comes his wargear; as
he can select equipment from the armory I usually give
him an EMP grenade. This little trick is often overlooked
and people give their entire squads EMP grenades, one’s
enough, if you’re that close to the enemy to be able to
poke their tank then your Hammerheads/Broadsides are
doing something drastically wrong. While we’re on the
subject of grenades I usually give the rest of the squad
Photon grenades, the no charging attack benefit really
helps in a pickle. I don’t bother with the bonding knife,
if you have the points it’s fine but the points can be
spent elsewhere. This usually comes to 145pts, not bad
for a full squad of twelve Fire warriors with grenades
and leader.
As for the Devilfish, whatever your standard setup tends
to be is fine. I usually go for Burst cannon and Drones,
Multi tracker, Decoy launchers and Targeting array,
100pts maybe?
Two of these squads do it for me; they stick together
and unload at same time. Now this is the good part,
when you get there don’t just pile out your Fire warriors
and shout For the Greater Good at the top of your lungs.
Not going to work. Trust me.
When you unload you Fire warriors, unload them on the
side of your Devilfish that’s furthest away from
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the enemy and hug it, by “hug it” I mean get as close to
the fish as possible. I don’t care if it smells just do it.
By doing this you’re giving yourself some major
advantages.

You’ll receive a 4+ cover save from being behind the

vehicle (if you don’t believe me check your rule book Pg
25 in the table, under 4+, it says Wrecks/Vehicles.) I’ve
used this at tournaments and never had any arguments
about it, if you disagree, then it’s your loss.

By hugging your fish your almost immune to assaults,

the enemy have to come all the way around your fish to
get you, past the wings or engine without coming
within an inch of the vehicle. Hell if your hugging it
enough they won’t be able to assault you without
assaulting the vehicle at the same time.

Have two of these positions next to each other and you

have your own little fortification; you can shoot out, you
have cover from enemy shooting and you are safe from
assault.

-Tim-

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 As I am still somewhat new to the world of
40K, I wanted to share my first meeting with a
Forge World resin kit with you. I have over the
last year or so been slowly building my Tau
army, and have over that period had the
opportunity to assemble and paint almost all
of Games Workshops Tau models, both plastic
and metal. In addition I have been doing a bit
of conversion, mainly on my XV-8 Crisis
Battlesuits, and by making my own Human
Axillaries for the Tau army.
 All the while I have been drooling over the
fantastic resin models over at the Forge World
site. The Tau especially seem to have a rather
good selection of kits, including the resin
Broadsides, the Barracuda air superiority
fighter, the TigerShark fighter-bomber and of
course the immense Manta super heavy drop
ship.
 I decided that as a prize I would order some
models as a reward for myself when I had
finished building and painting 1500 points of
my Tau army, and a few months back I finally
reached that point. I started pondering what I
would order, and seeing as
 I had participated in a few apocalypse games
recently, I decided on getting a few fliers. A
couple of weeks later I received my kits,
including a TigerShark AX-1-0, and I thought I
could give you guys a little peek into what is in
the bag you get from Forge World and a little
of the process of building it.
 About the TigerShark A-X-10
 The TigerShark are described in the Forge
Word book “Imperial Armor 3: The Taros
Campaign”, as a Tau aircraft that fits the
fighter-bomber role. The TigerShark is
described as being faster and more
maneuverable than it's Imperial counterparts
(mainly the Marauder bomber), but lacking the
larger bomb payload the Imperial aircraft has.
 The model I'm going to review and assemble
here is the A-X-1-0 variant, armed with twin
linked heavy railguns instead of the lighter ion
cannons, and drone rack of the standard
TigerShark.
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  Then the parts were washed with lukewarm water and
 Going over your kit dish washing liquid using a toothbrush.
 After receiving your kit I would recommend looking it  In fact I left them in the water overnight, as I had heard
over, making sure all the parts are included, and that rumors that the "release-oils" that it Forge Word uses in
none of them have obvious warping or are miscast in their molds can be hard to get of the models. Even after
any way. If parts are missing or damaged you should doing this I still did not feel secure that all the parts
use this opportunity to contact Forge World for were totally clean, so I did another round of washing to
replacements before doing anything else. make sure. I know this might sound a bit excessive, but
 I would recommend putting the parts out on a table and having paint flakes fall off your finished model after
going over the part-list that should be included as you spending hour upon hour on it, did not appeal to me.
might be tempted to start working on the kit right away,
and might miss any damaged or missing parts.
 So this is the list of parts that comes with the
model:
 Cleaning and getting the model ready for assembly
I used the following tools for the cleaning process: 1: Fuselage
2: Railgun halves (x4)
 Modeling Knife (make sure to use a new and sharp 3: Wing Tips (x2)
blade) 4: Drone Domes (x2)
5: Drone Base (x2)
 Cutting pad 6: Burst Cannon (x2)
 Fine grade sanding paper 7: Small Engine Exhaust (x2)
8: Starboard Tail Fin (from the picture provided this seems to
 Files (I used the GW ones, but I guess any fine file will be the other large engine exhaust mount, so this listing
do) seems to be an error, and from pictures provided on the Forge
World website the model does not seem to have any tail fins
 Razor saw at all.)
All parts were then cleaned up, sanded (where 9: Large Engine Exhaust Mount
necessary) and washed. Some of them had quite big 10: Large Engine Exhaust (x2)
lumps of resin and other flash that that to be removed. I 11:Rear Undercarriage Doors (x2)
used a razor-saw for the big parts, hobby knife, files 12: Front Undercarriage Doors (x2)
and sanding paper were used to create a smooth finish 13: Rear Undercarriage Legs (x2)
after removing excess resin, This part of the process is 14: Front Undercarriage Legs (x2)
not especially hard, but requires patience and good 15: Sensor Vanes (x2)
tools. 16: Seeker Missile Bay
17: Seeker Missile Tips (x2) - (two sprues containing 3 tips
each)
18: Markerlight Turret Mount
19: Markerlight Turret
20: Markerlight Turret Peg
21: Networked Markerlight
22: Cockpit
23: Cockpit Canopy
24: Cockpit Hatch
25: Crew (x2 Air Caste Pilots)
26: Disruption Pods

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 Assembly
Here is a picture of the model so far, as you can see I
 The model were then partly assembled, using have assembled parts of the model, still I'll try to give
Super Glue, and Greenstuff. a walk trough of the parts and assembly:

 I believe that with a resin kit like this you have to

be aware that parts may not fit completely, and
that you may have to do a bit of filing and
greenstuffing to make fit parts, or fill cracks. For
this I used GW greenstuff, and a sculpting tool, It
is especially important to keep your tool moist
when working, or else the greenstuff will stick to
the tool, making it impossible to get a smooth
finish. It can also help to let the greenstuff cure for
up to half an hour, making it harder and less sticky
before using the sculpting tool to smooth it down.
After the greenstuff has set completely you can
use fine grade sanding paper to remove any
residue or rough edges before priming the model.

 As mentioned earlier you should also be aware

that parts can be miscast or warped, and these are
not easily repaired by your average modeler. The
best way to solve this problem would be to email
Forge World, or better yet phone them up and
describe the problem, and get a replacement
piece. From what I have read FW is very customer
friendly and hopefully they will help you replace
the warped piece quickly.
1: is the Wing Tips, these were easy to fit, but needed a quite bit of
filing and greenstuffing to fill in the gaps.
2: The drone-controlled burst cannons, each come in tree parts (4, 5
and 6 on the above list), and went in their pods easily after a bit of
cleaning. I have not glued them in, and they can still be turned
around or removed.
3: The Small Engine Exhaust, both parts required quite a bit of sawing,
filing and sanding, and still left gaps, but that was nothing that could
not be fixed with greenstuff and a little patience.

4: The Large Engine Exhausts inside their Mounts (so each exhaust
consists of two parts (9 and 10 on the list above). These required quite
a bit of work as well.

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5: The Cockpit, consisting of the main part (with seating and  Here are some more pictures, to show the size of
controls for the two pilots), two air-caste crew, and the hatch the AX-1-0 in relation to other Tau models:
that is in two parts as well (Canopy and Hatch). The whole
cockpit can be removed for when the pilots launch their
escape pod.

6: The Railguns - both are quite a bit bigger than a Hammerhead

railgun, and comes in two parts (just like the Hammerhead
gun). Very easy assembly.

7:The Markerlight Turret Mount, with the turret and the Networked
Markerlight glued in, no problems here. Consists of 4 parts
(18, 19, 20 and 21).

8: Rear Undercarriage Legs and Doors, a bit cleaning up and

removing of flash, but no major work required

9: Front Undercarriage Legs and Doors, same as their rear

counterparts

Here the fuselage is showed next to a Vespid.

10: Sensor Vanes, not much to do here (removed a little residue
resin, and sanded).

11: The Seeker Missile Bay with the 6 Seeker Tips inserted, the tips
came on sprues containing 3, and needed a bit of work before
I fitted them, they were marked 1,2, and 3 and the bay had
corresponding numbers to ease the assembly. Mine did not
perfectly fit, so I had to use a bit of greenstuff and some work
to make them look right, but nothing that required any real
work.

The TigerShark “starship grade”

railgun in comparison to a
Hammerhead railgun.

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  The next step will be to start priming the model,
and decide on a paint scheme, I will also start
working on a base as soon as I get the parts I plan
to use (no base is included with the kit).

Hope this may be of help to members who think

about purchasing this model from Forge World.

-Rune-

Here you see a close up of the Cockpit/Escape Pod with

the two Air Caste Pilots inside, you can also see a
unassembled Drone Burst Cannon (in 3 parts).

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