Wave Generation

Dr. K. Murali, Department of Ocean

Engineering, IIT Madras, INDIA.
1
Wave Generation & Propagation

Dr.K.Murali
Professor
Department of Ocean Engineering
Indian Institute of Technology Madras
Chennai, India 600 036
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras.
Prediction / Estimation of Waves - Processes
Wave Prediction
Nearshore / shelf
SIGNIFCANT WAVE TRANSFORMATION
Shoaling; Refraction; Bathymetry induced
diffraction etc.
ENERGY CONSTANT except for breaking
(No S
in
)
No wave-wave interaction
Deep water
NO WAVE TRANSFORMATION

(How about wave generation ?)
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Gravity wave - Refraction
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Gravity wave - Diffraction
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Diffraction at a Breakwater
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras.
Prediction / Estimation of Waves - Approaches
Wave Prediction
Nearshore / shelf
Numerical modeling is
generally matured
Physical model study
ONLY FOR SURFZONE
& PORTS / HARBOURS
Deep water
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras.
Prediction / Estimation of Waves - Models
Wave Prediction
Nearshore / shelf
* Shoaling Dispersion relationship
* Pure Refraction Snells Law / Ray tracing approach
* Refraction+Diffraction
- Mild-slope equation ( is obtained)
- Boussinesq equation modeling (u, v & computed)
- MIKE 21 is commonly used by industry
- FUNWAVE, CGWAVE available in public domain
- Most researchers use their own models

Usually, these models are known as
PHASE CAPTURING MODELS
Deep water
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Physical model studies
Model study for one of the Kanyakumari minor harbour
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Physical model studies
Model study for a minor port in Malaysia
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Numerical Model Study
Numerical model study for a minor port in Kanyakumari
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Numerical Model Study
Numerical model study for a minor port in Kanyakumari
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras
Numerical Model Study
Numerical model study for a minor port in Kanyakumari
Wave Generation
13
Refraction of Waves Parallel Bathymetry
Wave Generation
Ray Tracing Method
The above equations are solved by Runge-Kutta-Gill method.
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali, Department of Ocean
Engineering, IIT Madras, INDIA.
15
Refraction of Waves Ray tracing
c
y
c
y x
c
x
c
s q
c
y
c
x
c
s p
with s q
ds
d
s p
ds
d
and c
y
c
x
c
ds
d
ds
dy
ds
dx
/ cos 2 sin sin ) (
/ sin cos ) (
0 ) ( ) (
, / cos sin
) sin(
) cos(
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
(

=
(

=
= + +
(

=
=
=

Wave Generation
Ray Tracing Method
This is simply a wave - ray tracing approach applied on to the spherical
coordinates.

Detailed bathymetry of the sea can be considered.

Allows us to calculate the pathways of the wave crest.

Successive ray spacing can be used to compute convergence/divergence
of wave energy.

Wave amplitude can be computed based on energy conservation.
Wave Generation
Ray Tracing Method
Wave Generation
Ray Tracing Method
Longitude
L
a
t
i
t
u
d
e
75 80 85 90
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
22
GOPALPUR onSEA
LONGITUDE : 90
LATITUDE : 8
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras.
Diffraction around breakwaters
Sommerfelds solution
Wave Generation
Diffraction around breakwaters
Wave Generation
Diffraction around breakwaters
Wave Generation
Diffraction through a gap in breakwaters
Wave Generation
Diffraction through a gap in breakwaters
Wave Generation
Diffraction through a gap in breakwaters
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering,
IIT Madras.
Combined Refraction Diffraction
Mild Slope Equation




F describes both amplitude and phase
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali
Department of Ocean Engineering, IIT Madras.
Combined Refraction Diffraction
The Mild Slope Equation must be solved numerically
using FDM / FEM

The solution is compute intensive as MDE is Elliptic
and poses a BVM.

Usually millions of points (and hence large coefficient
matrix) are needed for description of both amplitude and
phase.
Wave Generation
Boussinesq Equation modeling

Travels from deepwater to shallow
water.

Waves are highly dispersive in nature
and are nonlinear.


In the present work a comparati ve study
between performance of Plane, Dented
and Serrated seawalls is carried out.

Water Waves:
Deep water
(H/L)


Shallow water
(H/d)
According to the water depth
Linear Airy waves
Stokes nonlinear waves

Cnoidal waves
Solitary waves
Serrated
3
Wave Generation
Model Equations
The continuity equation with Boussinesq approximation is as follow
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
2 2 2
1 1 1
. . . 0
2 2 6
t
d u z d du z d d u


( | | | |
+ + + + + + =
`
| | (
\ . \ . )
The vector momentum equation is:
( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
( )
( )( ) ( )
( )( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
2
2 2
1
. . .
2
1 1
. . . .
2 2
1
. . . . 0
2
t t t
t t
u u u g z z u du
z u u du u
z u du u du

+ + + +
`
)

( + + +
`

)

(
+ + =
`
(

)

- Surface elevation
- Still water depth
- Horizontal velocity
vector
d
u

4
Wave Generation
Some motion....
Wave Generation
Dr. K. Murali, Department of Ocean
Engineering, IIT Madras, INDIA.
30
Thanking You
- Murali. K