A humorous, first-person account of being an expat in Beijing as one of China Daily's "Hot Pot" features.
Ran March 6, 2014, on Page 20 in the Life section of China Daily
A humorous, first-person account of being an expat in Beijing as one of China Daily's "Hot Pot" features.
Ran March 6, 2014, on Page 20 in the Life section of China Daily
A humorous, first-person account of being an expat in Beijing as one of China Daily's "Hot Pot" features.
Ran March 6, 2014, on Page 20 in the Life section of China Daily
CHINA DAILY CHINADAILY.COM.CN/LIFE THURSDAY, MARCH6, 2014
| PAGE 20 By MARGARETMCKENZIE margaret@chinadaily.com.cn An old proverb says, Pride goeth before a fall; however, I never really knew what it meant until my trip to the museum. It wasonanovercast dayinNovember, afew weeks after my arrival in China, and I wanted tosee the Andy Warhol exhibit before it closed at the Central Academy of Fine Arts. But even after mycolleagues toldmeit was hardtofind, I was stubbornly set on get- ting there on my own no cabs or address written out in Chinese characters for me. No, I would travel like the typical Beijinger I hoped tobecome, usingonly public transportation. I felt confident inmyabili- ty to do so, despite my non- existent language skills, since Id had success getting to the Forbidden City, Sanlitun and eventhe 798Art Zone. Plus, the museumweb- site offeredtransit instructions. So I boldly set off without even a Mandarin phrasebook, boarding a train at the Huixinxijie Nankou station and emerging a few miles east at Tai- yanggong. From there, however, things lit- erally beganto go south. According to CAFAs website, I was to take Bus No 132 north to Huajiadie Nanjie. Easier said thandone! I had to scurry to eachside of the intersection before finding the right bus stop. Eventhen, I wasnt sure what directionI was facing. But as the bus doors flippedopen, I tried to stay positive: Soon Id be viewing Warhols famous soup cans. Instead, I was in the soup! My happy glow turned to icy fear when I begannoticing that not only didthe bus seem to be circling an enormous park funny, I didnt recall any giant parks on the museum websites map but it was heading south toward the Third Ring Road! Jumping off at the next stop, I planned to cross the street andsimply retrace my route to Taiyanggong. Facing me, however, was no bus stop: just a big brick wall around the park. An oldNewEnglandexpressionsuddenlypopped into my head: Youcant get there fromhere. And I couldnt even say, Imlost. My pan- icked expression, however, must have spoken volumes, because a flockof angels disguised as a trio of kindly bus riders suddenly con- verged onme. Thoughtheir Englishmatched my Mandarin abilities, I tried to convey my odyssey: China Daily to Taiyanggong to art museum then shrugging helplessly. My message must have gotten across because the GoodSamaritans a young lady inoffice attire and two older womencarrying shopping bags quickly turned to the impenetrable (at least to me) route schedule and began debating which bus I should take. Finally, it was decided. Through gestures, they advisedme toride the No130bus backto Taiyangong and then pick up the 515. Though the younger woman didnt seem quite con- vinced, when the No 130 pulled up, they all helped me onto it, calling encouragement. Sure enough, it delivered me to Taiyang- gong. Once again, I dodged cabs and motor- bikes across six lanes of traffic to get to the 515 bus stop. And for the second time that day, I realized I was totally disoriented (the sunwas maskedby clouds, andthere were no familiar landmarks to guide me). But my chariot arrived, and I hopped on, keeping my fingers crossed. After all, how many mistakes could I make in one day? In short order, the answer appeared as an oddly familiar sign floated by. I could have sworn it said, University of International Business and Economics the name of the school directly across fromthe China Daily building. No. Couldnt be. But it wasnt until the bus haltedinfront of SouthWest MinorityDishes, the bright-orange restaurant just around the corner from the newspaper, that I came to terms with where I was: Right back where Id started from. It was time to admit defeat. I stepped off the bus, turned and raised my arm. Taxi! A lifetime dedication to recording the Jia, the ancient oral tradition of the Miao ethnic group, has won Wang Fenggang many accolades, but the severely disabled mans greatest reward is knowing the culture will be preserved for future generations. Li Jun reports. T he majority of the Miao ethnic group live in Guizhou province, where their ancient lore called Jia (or Jaxlil in the Miao language) has been passed down through genera- tions. Jia is the story of the Miao peo- ple their myths about the beginning of the world, their his- tory, laws and customs. Like the Bible for Christians, Jia contains all the values and beliefs of Miao. For generations, the Jia has been passed down through oral histories and storytelling, and like most oral traditions around theworld, Jiais ingravedanger of dying away. In the 1950s, there were around a dozen older villagers who could hum the Jia in Dan- zhai county, but nowthere is only one man left, and moreover, he has no successors, says Wang Fenggang, the 69-year-old who has spent most of his life collect- ing stories fromthe Jia. Over the past 30 years, Wang has recorded hundreds of hours of Jia singing by elders from the Miao ethnic group, and docu- mented tens of thousands of lines to preserve the endangered oral tradition. Despite physical disability, Wang persisted in protecting the Jia and the culture of the Miao ethnic group. After years of collecting raw material, Wang began to compile the book of Jia in 2004, and four years later he finishedthe work Miao Zu Jia Li (The Jia of Miao Ethnic Group). The book was published in 2009. Thanks to Wangs efforts, the protection of the Jia of Miao eth- nic group was incorporated into the national intangible cultural heritage of China in 2008, and Wangwas namedChinese Cultur- al Figure of the year 2013 by Chi- nese Culture Promotion Society and Phoenix TV. Born in a small village in Dan- zhai county, Guizhou province, in 1945, Wang was deeply influ- enced by Miao culture as he often heard the Miao people singing their folk songs. I began to know Miaos Jia whenI wasstill achildbut I didnot understand what it meant at that time, says Wang, who is of the Sui ethnic group. The Sui and Miao people live close toeachother. The Jia is like a poem with five characters in one line and with fivepitches withinoneline, but its content and rhetoric is different frompoems. Wangs first real exposure to Miao culture was in 1971 when he returnedto his village as a cultural worker from Minzu University of China(formerlyCentral University of Nationalities) where he studied the language andculture of Miao. But not many people knew Miaos Jia at that time. Most of them thought it was the same as ancient folk songs, Wang says. However, Miaos Jia is different from Miaos folk songs because they have distinct content, and furthermore, the Jia has religious functions for the Miao ethnic group, and is also used as law to settle quarrels and conflicts with- in the Miao people. It is often called an encyclope- dia of Miao and its content covers Miaos history, social structure, literature, customs, religion and even their ancient technology, Wang says. After returning to his home- town, Wang first worked in the countys department of publicity. My work allowed me to visit different villages all year around, so I could take the opportunity to knowmore about Miaos Jia from older people and record them, says Wang. But during the cul- tural revolution (1966-76), many ethnic cultures were regarded as outdated things, so I had to col- lect themin private. It was the thirdPlenary Session of the 11th CPC Central Commit- tee in 1978 that revitalized the national culture across the coun- try and the protection of folk cul- ture gained more attention. From then on, Wang started to collect and study Miaos Jia. His initial investigation found that there were no more than 20 older people in Danzhai county who could sing the Jia. Wang visited them one by one, listened to the Jia they sang, and wrote everything down. In order to get complete mate- rial, Wang sometimes stayed with the elders for several days. He helped with the housework dur- ing the day, consulted with the elder inthebreaks, andsortedout what he had collected at night. There was one elder who was very moved by Wangs work, and explained to him every single verse of the Jia that he could recall for three days. Wang wrote downmorethan3,000lines of the ancient Jia. I could not afford a recorder until 1980, when I asked my friends overseas to buy an old recorder for me, Wang recalls. Wang recorded the elders sing- ing in the Miao language, then translated and edited the record- ings at home. Wang considers translation the most difficult part of the process. Translation took most of my timebecauseI must trymybest to accurately explain the cultural code of Jia fromMiaos language. I want the public to understand the culture of Miao. This is my original intention when writing the book. All was going well until Wang fell ill with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis in 1982. He was only 37 years old and the disease would eventually paralyze him. The ill- ness posed a great challenge for his work of collecting Jia. The doctor told me it was an incurable disease, Wang says. It was estimated that I could live, at most, another 25 years. However, instead of scaring him, the disease drove Wang to seize every minute to complete the collection of the Jia. The disease forced Wang to retire after three years, but he insisted in collecting the Jia as long as his body could still move. I did not regard myself as a patient. I just want to keep doing what I like. First the feet, then legs. Merci- lessly, the disease took away Wangs mobility bit by bit, but Wang kept working. After he could not walk anymore, he invit- ed the elders to his home. When Chen Jincai, a respected elder in nearby Zhanliang village, heard of Wangs devotion to col- lecting Jia, he came to Wangs home, and stayed for two weeks. He sang the Jia and explained it to Wang. In order to record them all, Wang used more than 50 cas- settes. When I was told I could only live 25 years at most, 2008 became the deadline for finishing the book, Wang recalls. Because of the disease, I could sit and write only three or four hours each day. But when I rested in bed, I listened to the recordings. I almost never watchedTVinthose years and at the end of 2008, I finally completed the first draft of the book. With his perseverance and determination, Wang not only completed the collection, but also managed to prolong his own life. His love for Jia and the culture of Miao ethnic group helped him beat the disease. He outlived doc- tors estimation. Although most of his body is paralyzed, he used his hands and fingers, the only moving parts, to document morethan20,000lines of Jiaand30,000Miaofolksongs. He rescued the memories of our ethnic group, says Yu Qiuyang from the Museum of Miao Cul- ture in Danzhai county. The 2013 award for Chinese Cultural Figure is a great recogni- tion of his contribution to Miao culture, but Wang says: Those inheritors of Miaos Jia were real heroes for protecting and inherit- ing folk culture. I owe a great deal to all of them. Wang says while he feels hon- ored by the award, he also feels a great responsibility. Wang plans to publish another book about Danzhai countys history and cul- ture this year. As long as I can move, I will not giveupthis work, he says firmly. It is meaningful for us to use our limited lives and do something for the eternal cul- ture, and I think its worthdoing. Jia Tingting and Xing Yi contributed to the story. Contact the writer at lijun@chinadaily.com.cn. SAVINGTHE JIA PHOTOS PROVIDED TO CHINA DAILY Local villagers learn to hum the Jia from an elderly villager in Taichen village in Danzhai county, Guizhou province. Wang Fenggang collects stories from the Jia while listening to the reciting of an elderly Miao villager. LI MIN / CHINA DAILY Ahop, skip and a jump to nowhere HOTPOT