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As recently as ten years ago, most people would not have believed that in the space of a few
short years the everyday topic of skin care and unassuming questions such as how to treat
dry skin or what is an effective face mask for wrinkles would be stage front and center in
one of the most fascinating areas of scientific advance and one of the most controversial:
the question of immortality or at least significant longevity.
Why skincare? I guess a cell is a cell, and if you can crack the code for one human cell, it is
only a matter of time to solving the puzzle with different types of cell and skin is without
doubt the most visible cells each of us have. And its our faces in particular we often judge
ourselves and others by, and we are in turn quickly scrutinized, and often opinions reached
in a fraction of a second. Scanning
the questions that are regularly
asked in relation to skincare shows
that questions about the face
outnumber all other topics
combined. Whats the best natural
facial cleanser?, how to I find a
quality natural face moisturizer?,
whats the best face wash for acne
or the best face wash for
blackheads, how do I treat dry skin
around the eyes, or bags under the
eyes, or dark circles under the eyes
and similar questions dominate
consumer interest. Our faces often show the most visible signs of aging, and for many in
modern society age is by nature bad and young or looking young is the ideal.
That is why billions and billions of dollars each year are poured by consumers into all sorts
of treatments to minimize wrinkles, to push back the effects of gravity, to treat melasma, to
lighten skin naturally on the face, and to turn back the hands of time. And with that much
money to be spent by consumers, there are many manufacturers eager to find the next step
in arresting Father Time and at least detaining him until the next stagecoach arrives,
where hopefully he can be encouraged to move on before too much damage can be done.

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Some time ago a friend gave
me a simple analogy that
puts this entire issue in
perspective. The science may
not win a Nobel Prize, but it
gave me the necessary ah-ha
moment. The double helix of
the DNA strand our most
basic foundation for life is
held together at each end by
things that act in the same
way as the hard plastic bits on the end of shoelaces do preventing the DNA from
unraveling, and the individual chromosomes scattering across the floor like dropping a string
of pearls down a marble staircase. These things are called telomeres.
Somewhere programmed into these tiny telomeres is the entire basis to how long the DNA
stays intact and by inference these are the keys to the length of life of the organism.
Somewhere written into the telomere is a great musical score but like all musical scores it
has a double bar somewhere to signify the end; but is it to be a minuet or a Wagnerian
epic?
But sure enough, when the time comes, and the telomeres blow the full time whistle, the
DNA strand will unravel and die and the circle of life begins again. Telomeres govern how
often our skin cells are replaced; why a puppy and a child born on the same date may age
exactly the same chronologically, but the puppy has become a geriatric before the child
reaches puberty. Telomeres, my friend explained, occasionally go on the fritz (that must have
a very specific scientific meaning).
One of the ways this occurs is they may forget their programming to release and unravel,
and they just hang on,
allowing the cells thus
affected to multiply again
and again without dying. In
fact, when this occurs often
they become very difficult to
kill and to all intents and
purposes once the telomeres
act in this way, the cell
and those it propagates
are effectively immortal.
This condition has a name
which we all know. Cancer.
But, what if we were able in some way to persuade the telomeres within a cancer to behave
normally would that not be the magic bullet cure for cancer? And the other side to that
equation if the telomeres in healthy cells could be persuaded to act as they do in a cancer
then is this the recipe for a healthy cell that does not die? Does the cure for cancer and
immortality hang on just this one thread?
Whatever your views may be, the reality is that some of the worlds finest research scientists
are working on that exact question and some would say it is only a matter of a decade or
two before this is neither conjecture nor science fiction, but a reality to face up to.
The changes that would take place in society even if life expectancy were to take a leap
forward by say 10 or 20 years are enormous, but we should all be thinking that this is a
distinct possibility.
Today I can hold in my
hand a product I know
has the latest in
scientific development
(as well as nature) as an
anti ageing skincare
treatment and I know it
is effective in pushing
back the visible effects
of ageing in a way
undreamt of a
generation ago and I
have no doubt in a few
years I will be saying
this cream will not just
slow the ageing process
and reduce the visible
signs of ageing, making
your face appear
younger but it will
actually be younger.
But before that, lets look back at how this whole engagement with life extension and anti-
ageing started. Mankind has always striven for longevity and mused about immortality but
the past 50 years has seen some dramatic steps in reality toward this goal.

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The thought of extending life has been on the mind of mankind for millennia. References to
the search for ways to prolong life can be found as far back as the Epic of Gilgamesh.
Gilgamesh was reputedly the fifth king of the kingdom of Uruk, the modern-day Iraq,
around 2500 BC. According to the Sumerian list of kings, he reigned for 126 years.
The Torah or Old Testament records Methuselah as living over 900 years, with life spans
measured in centuries apparently commonplace before the time of Noah. Throughout the
development of scientific thought from the Reformation onwards, scholars have applied
themselves to solving this riddle and these endeavors continue today at the very leading edge
of scientific progress.

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As the secrets of our existence are unraveled in ever more minute detail, we are beginning
to understand what it is that makes us grow from tiny babies into adults. We now know, for
example, that cell functions slow down as the body ages and that production of certain
substances required by the body to regenerate decrease or cease completely.
Skin, for instance, needs
two substances to retain
strength and firmness. The
production of these
substances namely
collagen (strength,
tightness) and elastin
(flexibility) decreases with
age. The decreases in
production together with
other factors that include
the threat of free radicals
make the skin age and
become wrinkly.
Free radicals are
essentially incomplete
oxygen molecules causing destructive chain reactions within cells. The same kind of thing
happens in every cell, every tissue and organ around the human body. For example, people
develop frown lines, crows feet and wrinkles including that darn wrinkle between the
eyebrows that makes us look cross when were not. Nutrients are no longer absorbed easily
and vital cell functions, hormones and other substances are produced at decreased rates
resulting in the body ageing.

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Science has been looking for ways to slow down this process for centuries. The forming of
life extension movements, however, did not really begin until around 1970.
! In this year, Denham Harman, the originator of the so-called free radical theory of
ageing, decided that an organization dedicated to the research and information sharing
between scientists working in biogerontology (the field of science concerned with the
biological aspects involved in the ageing process) was needed. As a result, the American
Ageing Association was formed.
! In 1976, two futurists, Philip Gordon and Joel Kurtzman wrote a book on the research
into extending the human lifespan. This popular volume was titled No More Dying. The
Conquest Of Ageing And The Extension Of Human Life.
! Kurtzman was then invited to speak at Floridas House Select Committee (HSC) of
Ageing, which was chaired by Claude Pepper, an American politician and spokesman for the
elderly. The aim of this talk was to discuss the impact on Social Security by life extension.
! In 1980, Saul Kent, a prominent activist in the field of life extension, published the book
The Life Extension Revolution and founded the nutraceutical (from nutrition and
pharmaceutical, in other
words, a nutrition
supplement) firm known as
The Life Extension
Foundation. This foundation
is a non-profit making
organization promoting
dietary supplements and
publishing the periodical Life
Extension Magazine. Kent
was later involved in work
relating to cryogenics. He was
jailed in the course of this
work over a dispute at one
point, although charges were
dropped at a later stage.
! In 1982, American health writer and life extension advocate Sandy Shaw and her co-writer,
Durk Pearson, popularized the term life extension even further with the bestseller Life
Extension: A Practical Scientific Approach.
! Roy Walford, a gerontologist and life-extensionist, published Maximum Lifespan, another
popular book on the subject. He and Richard Weindruch, his student, followed this up in
1988 with their summary on the research they had conducted into the ability to prolong the
life of rodents through calorie restriction. The title of this book is The Retardation of
Ageing and Disease by Dietary Restriction. Although this ability to extend life with calorie
restriction had been known since the 1930 s, when gerontologist, biochemist and nutritionist
Clive McCay did some research into the subject, it was the work of Walford and Weinbruch
that gave solid scientific grounding to the McCays findings. Walfords scientific work was
driven by a personal interest in life extension. He practiced calorie restriction as part of his
own life and eventually died at the age of 80. The cause of his death was amyotrophic lateral
sclerosis, a progressive motor neuron disease.
! A4M, the American Academy
of Anti-Ageing Medicine was
founded in 1992 to create a
medical specialty for anti ageing
that was distinctly separate from
geriatrics. This allowed scientists
and physicians interested in this
particular field of science to hold
conferences and discuss the
latest developments.
! The sci.life-extension, a Usenet
group, was created by California-
born author, philosopher and
translator Brian M. Delaney. This
represented an important development within the movement of life extension. It made it
possible, for example, for the CR (Calorie Restriction) Society to be created.
! A more recent development is the proposal of Dr A. de Grey, a biogerontologist at
Cambridge University. This proposal suggested that damage to cells, macromolecules, organs
and tissues can be repaired with the help of advanced biotechnology. This is evident in hair
restoration products, for instance.

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Although it would appear that most of the work revolving around life extension has been
done solely by writing books or founding societies or organizations of some kind or another,
the reality is that these books were written in response to or based on very specific, detailed
scientific research that have yielded positive results. They are no longer the works of hopeful
minds, but the works of dedicated scientists who have spent their lives working on
discovering facts about ageing and trying to find ways to slow down, or even reverse the
process.
Many breakthroughs have been made, and in many
ways, we are already able to extend lives to a certain
extent. The average lifespan of a human being is
already far greater than it used to be as a result of
medical, pharmaceutical and nutritional advances
brought about by research and development.
The work continues, and scientists around the world
are continually conducting research, comparing
results, discussing options and making advances on
our behalf.

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What factors are driving this movement into ever greater efforts to find solutions to the
extension of Life? The answer to this question actually includes a whole range of factors.
Expectations Have Risen
As the 'baby boomer' generation (born between 1946-1964) enters retirement age,
expectations of this group are dramatically different from those of the preceding
generations. They have greater expectations and desires to enjoy their life as pensioners to
the fullest and for as long as is possible. This expectation covers not only length of life, but
quality of life as well and this is not
a passive request but an active and
strident demand in many cases.
One of the outcomes of this trend is
a dramatic rise in the number of
men - and women - seeking a hair
regrowth solution - with hair
restoration products and
supplements for hair growth, as well
as expensive surgical treatments -
have become a large business in
their own right. Products coming
under the classification anti ageing skin careV/strong> are booming across many markets.
Pharmacology
Progress in pharmacology has led to a wide selection of drugs that allow people to live
longer and fuller lives being developed over the last two decades or so. The work is still very
much in progress and many more drugs
are being developed daily.
One of the classic examples of a drug
raising the quality of life for older
individuals are erectile dysfunction
treatments - notably Viagra, Cialis and
Levitra. These drugs have dramatically
reduced the number of fatalities or
serious injury resulting from elderly
men rolling out of bed, as well as a
number of more qualitative benefits.
Advances in Genetics
Some of the latest scientific research and subsequent
advances made in biotechnology and genetics are
providing some hope that it may be possible to hold
back some of the fundamental causes of aging. As
we outlined previously, chromosomes containing
DNA strings are essentially capped with a binding
substance known as telomeres, and this is where
longevity and skin care are converging.
In effect, the telomeres are consumed during cell
division and over time, they become shorter and
shorter. This was first observed by a scientist called
Leonard Hayflick, and the process of limited cell
division was subsequently named the Hayflick Limit.
Advocates of life extension work on the thought that lengthening the telomeres through
drugs or gene therapy may ultimately extend the Hayflick Limit and thereby fool the cells,
and as such the body, into 'thinking' it is younger than it actually is.
Developments in Precision Manufacture
Advances made in the fields of nanotechnology, miniaturization, computer chips and
robotics also provide hope for potentially life extending solutions.
In the 1970's, a popular TV series starred Lee Majors as the 'Six Million Dollar Man'? Science
fiction then. Today, it is science fact. Millions of people now walk through life with artificial
ankle, knee and hip joints and healthy feet.
A generation ago, mass production of this kind of technology was a distant dream. The same
applies to many individuals with artificial limbs. Artificial legs used to be crude wooden
contraptions that were just able to keep a person
balanced. Today's artificial limbs are almost fully
functional.
The Blessings of Medical Progress
Who would have thought even 50 years ago that it
would become possible to bypass a coronary artery,
or even replace a heart completely? Yet there are
hundreds of thousands, if not millions of individuals
enjoying their lives after having this kind of surgery
- few of whom would be alive just half a century
ago.
Millions of people no longer have to wear glasses,
because of the availability of laser surgery. This, too,
was science fiction just a few years ago. Today, it is
advertised next to shampoo in magazines and on TV. In other words, science is moving
rapidly towards not only extending life, but making the quality of these extra years better as
well. Progress has made many anti ageing hopes and desires a reality.

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What should the average person believe? This
question is almost as difficult to answer as
finding solutions to extended life. Even among
scientists, opinions are divided.
Some do believe that extending the quality of life
is as possible as extending life in general. Others
brush off the thought as un-scientific nonsense.
This is often simply based on the fear of
anything 'new' disturbing the status quo of
established limits. Fortunately, real scientists do
keep on looking, because if every single scientist
had decided that some of the advancements
already in medical, pharmaceutical and
technological fields could not be possible, we
would all still be dying at 30.
So where does that leave us?
There is no doubt what-so-ever that there are many charlatans out there trying to make a
quick buck out of people's desire to retain their youth. Even today, many products being
sold in their millions as anti ageing skin care treatments are essentially non-effective - often
given fantastic names and have the most bewildering ingredients to make them look
scientific to consumers and justify their cost. But the
facts are while many advancements are being made and
research points to the possibility of eventually finding
the key to maintaining youth for longer, the scientific
community is still warning the public that many of the
products being sold today are unreliable to say the least.
! Although food supplements may assist in keeping a
body healthier - something that can often be achieved
by simply adopting a healthier life style and diet - there
is as yet no categorical and undeniable proof that they
slow down aging as such.
! The same goes for many hormone treatments.
Although they may have a short term effect of some
kind, it is not yet scientifically proven that they will
actually work in the long run. The fear that it may not
work is based on the fact that taking
hormones, a good example is the hormonal
acne treatment, will ultimately actually slow
down the body's own production of these
hormones.
In addition, many treatments may have
potential (and yet unknown) side effects in
the long run that could be harmful to the
user's health. This includes the fears that
such hormone treatments could increase the
risk of cancer, diabetes and other major
illnesses.
! Other ideas, like the calorie restriction
method, are working for rodents. In fact,
studies conducted with rats on 30 to 50 per
cent restricted diets have shown to almost
double the life span of rats. Similar studies
conducted on primates have also shown
tendency to extend life to a certain extent and prevent a list of age related illnesses. There
are as yet no studies on humans, although some are actually living on calorie restricted diets.
Whether this will prolong their lives, however, is a question of having to wait and see.
The theory is that by reducing calorie intake, the metabolism of the body is slowed down,
thereby slowing the aging process as well. Nutritionists say there is a certain amount of
calories a body of a certain size and weight needs to have to maintain health. Reducing this
amount by up to 50 per cent is hardly a good idea in the long term. Time will tell, as they
say, but how will anyone be able to tell the difference? If a person lives to the age of 80, is
this because they are on this diet or would they have lived to this age anyway?
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Many believe there is realistic hope and expectation of making significant strides in the area
of longevity within the next two decades. This group typically believes the answer will
ultimately lie within genetics
and biotechnology. It is too early
to make definite predictions, but
the research so far shows
promise and, as mentioned
earlier, some of the results of
this research are already being
used in certain treatments to
improve patients' lives.
At present, overall aging is
difficult to slow down, to say the
least. Some products indicate
they will assist in maintaining overall health/longevity, but the area we are seeing the first
commercial products being developed is in the area of skin care and given the size of this
market, it is likely that this will continue to be the weather-vane of longevity treatments.
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It will be difficult to tell these two apart for many years. Charlatans are likely to about,
because it is difficult to disprove many theories easily. Equally difficult will be positive proof
from those with an ethical perspective on the
trail of a real breakthrough, as products based
on valid research and using technology or
ingredients that will actually have an effect
rarely promise overnight results. This is
something that anyone looking to find
effective facial treatments foraging will have
to bear in mind. None of these products can
perform miracles. Even the best of them will
take time and regular use in order to achieve
the desired effect.
The bottom line is that where we stand now,
we can be sure there are some things which
are ineffective or even harmful; there are
some that show some promise and there are
some that are starting to cross the line of
being able to demonstrate results - albeit
modestly at this point. In the meantime, it is wise to research products very carefully and to
refuse to be baffled by weird and wonderful sounding ingredients or fantastic sounding
promises of instant youth.
Regeneration will take time - let's face it, it has taken a lifetime to get to this point, turning
back the clock can never be possible over night.
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One may well ask just what all
this, and in particular the life
extension movement as such,
could possibly have to do with
skin care, health and beauty
products. The fact is, much of
the research into life extension
is resulting in new approaches to skin
care as a kind of by-product. A greater
understanding of how genetics and
cellular processes affect the aging and
condition of skin allows these research
and development teams to investigate
different compounds, their compatibility
with human cells and genetic make up.
Many compounds found in nature are
not just compatible to human skin but
in fact the skin cells actually have
natural receptors for these compounds.
Because life extension research has
discovered these receptors, skin care
developers can now use this knowledge
and create the formulae for their
products to provide maximum effect.
Another skin care 'by-product' of life extension research is the use of nanotechnology. The
use of nanotechnology, or, to be more precise, nanoparticles, has had a huge impact on the
way nutrients and other components of skin care products are being delivered to the skin
cells. In some ways, nanotechnology has already revolutionized skin care. It is now possible
to use active ingredients previously difficult to effectively deliver to the skin, as well as
making old, proven ingredients even more effective. Some ingredients used in cosmetics for
hundreds, if not thousands of years by certain cultures can now be even more effectively
used to improve skin condition and maintain a healthy, youthful look.
Even the moisturizing effect of skin care products can be improved with nantechnology. For
this effect, so-called nanosomes are used. Nanosomes are small, pocket-like particles that
melt or disintegrate on skin contact. By doing this, the moisturising effect is accelerated,
assisting the skin faster and more efficiently. Nanotechnology plays a key part not only in
slowing the aging of skin, but is believed to actively assist in repairing and healing skin cells
and tissue.
Another breakthrough in life extension
research that is beginning to make itself felt
in skin care products is the research into
stem cells. Stem cells are elements of all life,
plant, animal and human. Stem cells have two
properties other cells do not have. These
properties are the ability to develop into any
kind of cell type and the ability to divide
almost indefinitely. The use of plant stem cell
extracts in skin care is likely to become one
of the next 'big things' in the industry.
And prepare for the debate when human
stem cells are proposed as part of an anti-
aging skincare regime, as will inevitably occur!
One thing we can be certain of, is that science will continue to search for answers to the
question of longevity and skin care, and business will drive the commercialization of
discoveries.
But whether these lead us to
a utopian future or
potentially a minefield of
strife as we debate who will
use and who will benefit from
these new godlike anti
ageing powers.
In the meantime, at a
practical level in the skincare,
health and beauty industry
we remain hopeful and
expectant we will see the
emergence of anti ageing skin
care products that not only
promise results, but produce
them.





Author:

David Christensen
David.d.christensen@gmail.com

David Christensen 2014