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Desert Magazine 1974 October
Desert Magazine 1974 October
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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
WATWfti AND THi
CJIMPIt i
WILLIAM KNYVETT, Publisher-Editor
DutnL
GEORGE BRACA, Art Director
MARY FRANCES STRONG, Field Trip Editor
ENID C. HOWARD, Associate Editor
F. A. BARNES, Utah Associate Editor MAGAZINE
GLENN VARGAS, Lapidary Editor
K. L. BOYNTON, Naturalist
MARVEL BARRETT, Circulation Manager Volume 37, Number 10 OCTOBER 1974
CONTENTS
FEATURES
CHOSTOFISLETA 12 DianeThomas
DEPARTMENTS
EDITORIAL, CIRCULATION AND ADVERTISING OFFICES: 74-109 Larrea St., Palm Desert, California 92260. Telephone Area Code 714 346-8144.
Listed in Standard Rate and Data. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: United States, Canada and Mexico; 1 year, $6.00; 2 years, $11.00; 3 years, $16.00. Other
foreign subscribers add $1.00 U. S. currency for each year. See Subscription Order Form in this issue. Allow five weeks for change of address and
send both new and old addresses with zip codes. DESERT Magazine is published monthly. Second class postage paid at Palm Desert, California and
at additional mailing offices under Act of March 3, 1879. Contents copyrighted 1974 by DESERT Magazine and permission to reproduce any or all
contents must be secured in writing. Manuscripts and photographs will not be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope.
Desert/October 7974
NLVV
Ml XIC/O
ISSUE in
SPECIAL Publishers
Complete
5'66'67'
Poke
MARIETY IS THE spice of life, and
VOLUMES 1 / that is what the October issue is all New Mexico is a country where edges
meet —formed by the Western rim of the
y about! Varying from our usual style, Great Plains, the windy ridges of the
George Leetch brings you the first in- Rockies and the strangeness of the Son-
stallment of a two-part article on hiking oran Desert. It is a vertical country, where
one looks down from cold fir-spruce for-
along an old Spanish mission trail in Baja ests into hot valleys of yucca, cactus anc
California. This was no casual stroll and desert flowers a mile below.
its successful completion required the Traditions and cultures are as variable
as the landscape. Here is the Dinetah, the
use of an airplane, a boat and a camper,
Holy Land of the Navajos made safe from
in addition to some well-toned muscles. monsters by the Hero Twins and guardec
Complete Our naturalist, K. L. Boynton, enlight- by the four Sacred Mountains. Here, too,
are the pueblos of the Keresan, Tanoan
'70 '71 '72 ens us about the fast and flashy ring-tail and Zunian people who had built a peace-
VOLUMES cat in his feature entitled, "Desert Acro- ful democratic society while Europe blec
through the Dark Ages and who still cal
bat." Mary Frances Strong examines
the clouds with their ritual dances. Anc
Nevada's Gorge Country and their here remain the old Hispanic mountain
strange land formations. villages which mark the last frontier of the
Spanish Empire.
Over in Utah, Fran Barnes extolls at
In this collection of landscapes by Davic
length on the wonders of Dead Horse Muench and illuminating words by Tony
Point and how it was named. This is a Hillerman, New Mexico's many and var-
ied contrasts unfold in a unique blend thai
beautiful part of the mighty Colorado
is her mysterious beauty —and a grandeur
River scenery that is overlooked (no pun that is our natural heritage.
1973 intended) by the majority of tourists and Hardcover, large format, 188 pages,
VOLUME $22.00 until January 1, 1975, then $25.00.
visitors. It's a " m u s t " for desert lovers!
Enid Howard has a colorful account of 25c handling charge
Escalante Country, with its alpine mea- California residents add 6% sales tax
dows, towering canyons, luring back-
country areas, and a paradise for rock- . Magazine Book Shop
hounds and camera buffs. In fact, you Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260
name it, and Escalante Country has it!
The rockhounds get a bonus this Lowest Photo Print Prices
month with a feature by Jack Pepper on
Highest Quality
"Rain Barrel" Quartzsite, Arizona, a little spot on the
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This catalog can be removed and saved & ENVELOPES. All Photo
for future use by those of you who do not Prices are Comparably low.
save your magazines. No gimmicks.
No lies.
Finally, Diane Thomas has a tale of a More than 50 years of con-
Mail all orders to: DEPT. T
murdered friar in New Mexico who, for tinuous photo service guar-
DESERT Magazine antees your quality and our
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260 some strange reason, will not stay buried
integrity.
and he keeps rising to the surface. It
Personal check or money order must
might not be a real ghost story, but it MARKET BASKET PHOTO C O .
accompany your order. P. O. Box 370, Yurna, Arizona 85364 or
Be sure to include your zip code. sure is a classic example of "you can't P. O. Box 2830, San Diego, Calif. 92112
keep a good man down."
Desert/October 1974
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WE WALKED A
THE SEA OF CORTEZ was over a mile would be the last we would see of roads in California's Anza-Borrego Desert
below us, a vast puddle of shimmering for many miles as our plane took us south State Park and my wife, J ean and I head-
blue in the first light of the morning sun. along the east coast of Lower California. ed our Jeep Wagoneer south into Mexi-
1 hrough the windows of the airplane we Our destination was a small cluster of co's rugged, 1,000-mile-long peninsula.
could make out the hazy shoreline of palm trees and green foliage in the beau- The new paved road, which would stretch
mainland Mexico's Sonoran coast. Clos- tiful and remote Bahia Agua Verde, some from California's international border
er, to our right, the great granite Picacho 600 miles down the gulf shore of the arid, down to "lands end" at Cabo San Lucas,
del Diablo, Baja California's loftiest sun-baked peninsula. Before our trip was was just a bit over 100 miles short of com-
peak, thrust up 10,000 feet above sea over, it would involve not only the use of pletion. We were anxious to prowl into
level. San Felipe appeared ahead and we an airplane, but also car, boat and finally, some of Baja's hidden corners before the
could see the tiny forms of Mexican fish- the real point of our venture, to hike with final link was finished.
ermen aboard the fleet of shrimp boats backpack along an ancient Spanish mis- During the past 30 years, I had logged
which floated at anchor in the bight of the sion trail. As I gazed down on the sere, many miles over the "Forgotten Penin-
crescent-shaped bay. brown hills and rocky promontories which sula" in my various four-wheel-drive ve-
Within what seemed only minutes, the flowed under our plane like an endless hicles. Most of these miles were driven
Islas Encantadas hove into view and we belt, my thoughts went back to the events when the trans-peninsular highway was
marked where the dusty scratch of road which led to our present adventure. only a dream and old-timers scoffed at the
turned inland at Bahia San Luis Conzaga It had really started in June of '73. I possibility that a paved road would ever
and twisted into the rugged interior. That was on vacation from my job as a ranger traverse the length of Baja California's
An aerial
•
survey
revealed
the old
trail and
emphasized
its remoteness
and told
us the
walk
' * / , . - ' . • • • " • • •
would not
bean
easy one.
MISSION TRAIL
• • • > • •
*'Jt
wildnrss. Now that dream was almost a beauty. working on the new highway,normally
realii s and I considered the probable con- One day we were exploring a bay south earned his living by fishing. He was af-
sequence with mixed emotions. of Loreto known as Ensenada Blanca. We fable and a storehouse of information
Foi the June trip, Jean and I set our were having lunch on the white sand near about the country. As we visited, I ques-
sight1, on the region around Loreto. This the water's edge when an outboard tioned him about a possible route along
is a nost appealing area and provides a motor-driven skiff appeared from across the coast to the south. He assured me that
jumping-off place into some of Baja's the bay and landed on the beach. A slen- there was indeed a foot path, although he
most '.pectacular country. Bold, craggy der young Mexican stepped out of the had never traveled it. The trail was an old
mountains, long, curving beaches and boat and greeted us. This was our intro- mission route which went through the
deep blue bays guarded by bird-covered duction to Romeo and, in a way, he shap- mountains and along the shore to an iso-
islands give this territory a special prehis- ed our destiny. lated village of palm-thatched houses at
toric < |uality. It is easy to imagine that you We talked for awhile in Spanish of var- Bahia Agua Verde. Our friend didn't
are I he first to gaze on its unspoiled ious things. Romeo, although presently know the distance, but believed that the
Desen October 1974 7
hike could be accomplished in two or
three days. He warned, however, that he
had heard of no fresh water along the
route.
Although we were sorely tempted to in-
vestigate this unknown path, Jean and I
knew our limitations. A trip of this sort
would take careful planning. There would
be another time and we vowed to return
and walk the trail from start to finish.
STOP THAT
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We left Loreto the following morning were the mountains which had to be
and drove up the Baja peninsula in an crossed? Would we have to carry all of our
The New, Powerful easy three days. What a difference it was
from previous trips before the paved
water? How much food to take? These
and many other questions occurred to us.
highway when the best time I could aver- It was while discussing the dilemma
age was a jolting 10 miles per hour. with our friends, Marvin and Aletha
It was good to be home once more, but Patchen, of Ramona, California that a sol-
uppermost in our minds was the lure of ution to the problem was presented. Both
Gold Dredge, Model 100 fered only vague, tantalizing clues to this
seldom-used route. Almost 300 years
learned of our half-formulated plans.
Marvin, who is owner-publisher of the
— weighs less than 30 lbs., and ago, it had served to connect a chain of popular aviation magazine Aero, and is
has many outstanding advant- missions from Loreto to La Paz. The also a pilot, proposed that we take a re-
ages over conventional models. segment of the trail which stirred our in- connaissance flight to survey the Ligui-
— A specially designed high terest started at the crumbling ruins of Agua Verde region. This would allow us
pressure pump mounted on a gas the Ligui Mission, 20 miles south of Lore- to assess the route, determine its condi-
stingy 2 Cycle 1.6 h.p. 0 & R to. We read that the mission was founded tion and possibly arrange for a boat to
engine that delivers 70 psi when by the Jesuit Fathers in 1705. Sixteen take us to the start of the trail. This sug-
restricted to 1/4" orfice. Comes
years later, after a series of devastating gestion met with our instant approval.
equipped with a take apart
attacks by the fierce Pericu Indians, the So, within just a month of the trip to
enclosed impeller.
mission was abandoned. From Ligui, the Baja California, we returned by air. We
— A new type jet that accepts
trail followed the coast 23 miles to the flew past Loreto and finally located the
the suction hose internally and
becomes larger in I.D. rather fishing village of Agua Verde. old mission trail as it twisted and turned
than restricts. The sketchy background of history through the mountains and along the
For further information write: which we managed to uncover only whet- beaches south of Ensenada Blanca. What
OREGON GOLD DREDGE ted our interest and made us all the more a thrill it was to look down on the route
Mohawk Star Route 1A determined to make the walk. There where, within a few weeks, we would be
Springfield, Oregon 97477 were, however, matters of a more practi- walking with packs on our backs. In some
Phone (503) 747-6069 cal nature to be dealt with. How high of the rougher sections, Marvin brought
Desert/October 1974
rfieo'o mission Iran voyago to Agua Verde and the start of the
trail.
was b.\ rely visible
from i he air,
snaking its way
Now, as I stared down at the Baja Pen-
insula which was rapidly slipping by us,
FREE 1974
across the rugged terrain. the excitement of the trip came to me
once more. The roar of the plane's motor 156 Page
the pl.ine down to a lower elevation so
that we could take photographs and
sketch a map. It took only a little imagina-
made conversation difficult in the close
confines of the cabin, but I knew that the
other passengers shared my feelings.
CATALOG.
tion to visualize the early t uilders of this This was destined to be a unique adven- DETECTORS—BOOKS—MAPS
historic route; the stone-ade Indians who ture that we would remember the rest of General Electronic Detection Co.
made I he first footprint, th ?n the Spanish our lives. • 16238 Lakewood Blvd.
Bellflower, California 90706
Padres marching into t h ; New World Conclusion Next Month
with their Christian crusjde.
Now that we had actual N seen the trail,
our enthusiasm soared, jrhere was an
aura "I mystery about the region which
intrigued us. The trail wa: waiting. Now
it was up to us to accept the challenge.
Our E^.ija backpack was sodn to begin and
we fl'W home from Loretp impatient to
take our first step on the 'oad to adven-
ture.
Thi' next few weeks ware busy ones, ' G E T THAT LIMITED BOATS AVAILABLE—43'
with most our spare timej spent getting OLD GANG MAKE RESERVATIONS NOW
TOGETHER
read\ for the trip. The Pitchens would
supply the airplane, a si>-place Cessna
with .1 cargo storage pod. Dr. Thaddeus
TWO BOATS FOR ONE WEEK
$466.00
ONE BOAT FOR T W O W E E K S
Hite Marina (nc. Call Collect Or Write:
Jones, a seasoned Baja t - aveler, would [714] 466-5316, P. 0 . Box 218 La Mesa, Calif. 92041
take .i short respite from his Laguna
Beach medical practice arid go along as "Our Concern for You is Your Guarantee'
co-pilot. The sixth member of our party, United
Paula Davis, would join us in Loreto.
Paula has a lovely home tliere which she Campgrounds of Moab
calls < asa Casi, or " H o u s | Almost." It is
a charming sanctuary which reflects her Location: Facilities:
THE
warm and pleasant personality. Paula • One mile north of Moab, and Vi mile Level, Shaded Sites STANDARD OF
National Parks 88 Tent and Trailer Spaces UNITED
agreed to make the arrangements with EXCELLENCE
• Between Arches and Canyonlands Full Hookups
some local fishermen total e us by boat to National Parks Swimming Pool
the start of the Agua Veide-Ligui trail. • Near Dead Horse Point State Park Hot Showers
Storeand Laundry
She would do this, she admonished me, MiniatureGolf
only on the condition that she be allowed For Campground brochure
to ao ompany us. Paula was welcomed and Reservations, write or call: Offices for Canyonlands by Night
with open arms.
UNITED CAMPGROUNDS OF MOAB p.o.B o x 3 7 O D , Moab, utah 84532 801259-7660
The game plan for our vt nture was con-
cludei I after much discuss on. The Patch-
ens would fly from Ramorja to our Borre-
NOWTAKING RESERVATIONS
go desert home and Thald would drive
from I aguna Beach on the same day. The for
five o| us would take ofn the following Fall and Winter Trips
morning for Baja California. After touch- to Death Valley
ing down at the Mexicali a rport for flight
papei•'. and tourist entry documents, we
wouM again be airborne for four more
hours until we landed at the airstrip in
DESERT Write for our brochure describing
our 7-day camping tours.
Loreto There we would b ; met by Paula
in hei pickup camper whi :h would carry
us to l:nsenada Blanca. At that point, if
EXPEDITIONS,
our pi.ins worked out, we would rendez-
vous with the fishing launch for the sea INC. Box1404D,
Palm Desert, California92260
by DIANE THOMAS
GHOST STORIES of theOld West usually his religion by example, blending it with
turn out to be the result of an imagination Indian lore, always careful not to offend
fired by too many pulls on the whisky jug, the Pueblos by trying to force them to his
but one story has been attested to by an way of thinking. His simple humane con-
archbishop, a cardinal and a governor. tact with the Pueblos made a deep im-
About the time the Spanish soldiers pression on them, and over the years, he
were getting a toehold in the Southwest, was admitted to even the most sacred
somewhere along in 1735, a Franciscan rites in the underground kivas. He had
friar made his way to the Pueblo country truly become their brother.
through hostile Indians to the east of New The Pueblos added their knowledge to
Mexico. By the time he reached Laguna his, and Friar Juan learned all he could
Pueblo, west of Santa Fe, he was foot- about their language, their symbols, their
sore, feverish and on the verge of starva- rituals, their medical skills. The Indians
tion. The friendly Pueblo Indians gave no longer thought of him as their white mined, but perhaps the Spaniards believ-
him shelter, food and the services of their brother, but considered him one of their ed the Indians were guarding such a
medicine man. own tribe. And the gentle friar was con- cache.
Brother Juan Padilla was halfway a tent to remain at Laguna Pueblo. While the tribal chieftain had never
prisoner, but.his understanding of the Friar Juan had lived among the Pue- had any doubts as to Friar J uan's loyalty,
Indian beliefs enabled him to gain the re- blos for 20 years when a runner brought a few members of the sprawling Pueblo
spect of the Pueblos. He had had training news that a Spanish army was forming in tribe felt he had learned too much of the
in basic medicine in his priory and in the Mexico, set on invading the Southwest in Indian ways and secrets, and they wanted
following years, he administered to the a last-ditch effort to find hidden gold. to be sure none of their private knowledge
physical as well as spiritual needs of his Whether there was ever a fabulous gold would be passed on to members of a race
rescuers. He was a gentle friar, teaching horde in New Mexico has not been deter- hostile to all Indians.
12 Desert/October 1974
liged and made a written report, a copy
of winch is in the archives in New Mexico.
The document was witnessed by several
friars of the Pueblo. In it, he confirmed
the litelike appearance of the dead padre
saying they placed a new robe on the form
s i n e the old one had disintegrated, and
that I he body was supple enough to dress
easily and cross the arms afterwards. The
body had been put into a cottonwood box
when reburied in 1776, with the old blue
habil untouched. The Chaplain also made
menhon of the decomposed bodies of
people buried after the 1776 reburial,
with bones remaining although the padre
was intact.
When Friar Juan turned up again in
189:>, the Isletans sent for a priest, the
Governor and the Archbishop of Santa
Fe. I he Archbishop had a distinguished
house guest —a Cardinal visiting from
Ron ic, and he came along to take a look at
the p.idre who wouldn't stay buried. The
two i hurchmen testified they saw a body
appearing freshly dead.
This time the burial ceremony was a bit
more complete. The body was placed in a
heavy oak coffin, along with a copy of the
document. The lid was nailed down firm-
ly, ind prayers for the dead were said.
The < offin was then reburied in front of
the .iltar and the entire floor covered with
two inch planks.
Apparently this satisfied the restless
padic for, according to the present Gov-
erniu of Isleta Pueblo, Alvino Lucero, the
friar has remained sleeping this century.
But no one knows whether he will show
up In 1976 or not
Is it fact or legend? The story of the
resi Irss friar is well-known to New Mexi-
can. Some claim the recurring floods
brought the body up. But every 20 years
or SII-' Some claim the condition of the soil
under the church is such that a form of
mummification took place. But leaving
him llexible? And where is the original
document, copy of which was found in the
coffin in 1895? Perhaps in 1976 the ques-
tion', will be answered. •
A very young roundtail ground squirrel surveys the world his first day out.
'/1 /October 1974 15
Nevada's Gorge Country
by MARY FRANCES STRONG
>
pink, beige, orange and brown canyon
walls and the campground is pleasantly
sheltered by trees. Photo by M. Hum-
phreys. Courtesy Nevada State Parks.
76 Desert/October 7974
Opposite page:
It doesn't require
imagination in
on ler to recognize
' lee Pee Rocks"
in the
C lover Mountains
castofCaliente.
This is the
smaller of two
unw.ual formations.
Right:
"The Choir Group"
formation at
i .ithedral Gorge
is beginning
to "meltaway."
At certain
limes of the day,
it i Irarly resembles
singers in
a choir loft.
this vast erosional channel, between Pan- walls 50 or more feet high. In places,hips Brigham Young to order missionary
aca and Elgin Siding, four outstanding brush the wall son both sides; and, as you groups to search for possible retreats,
geological formations are exposed. They bend backwards in order to see a scrap of should war develop
offei scenic beauty and exploration par sky overhead, the walls seem to be lean- A group, known as the "White Moun-
excellence. Toss in some old mining ing in on you. "Walking inside" is a thril- tain Boys," spent many months in Mea-
camps, ghost towns and historical settle- ling experience, but not advisable for dow Valley developing an intricate irriga-
ments, and you have Nevada's Gorgeous anyone who suffers from claustrophobia. tion system which utilized a warm arte-
Gorge Country. Cathedral Gorge Campground is beau- sian spring at its northern end. Crops
d i h e d r a l Gorge and Kershaw-Ryan tiful. Laid out on a base of pink gravel were planted and other improvements
Stale Parks are the two attractions receiv- among a grove of Russian olive trees, it is made before they were called home when
ing 97 percent of the visitors' attention. kept immaculately clean. Each unit gives the threat of war diminished.
Only a few people venture into Rainbow privacy with ample room for car and It wasn't until May, 1864, that the first
Canyon. The unusual "Tee Pee Rocks" trailer. A spacious rest room facility of- settlers, the Francis Lee Family, arrived
appear to be known only to some of the fers hot showers (free). There is a heater in Meadow Valley. Finding the earlier ir-
loc;il folks and a few hunters. This is mag- for cold weather use, since the camp- rigation system was still in good condi-
nify ent country and it will challenge the ground is open the year around. Camping tion, they quickly planted crops, then set
reci i-ationist who enjoys exploring on his fee is $2.00 per night. about building temporary quarters of sod
own We arrived at Cathedral Gorge in late and pickets Full scale colonization had
Cue of Nevada's most well-known October and elected to use the attractive begun and, within two months, 18
parks, Cathedral Gorge is a long, narrow campground for our base of operations. families were living in the Panaca L.D.S.
valley where run-off from infrequent rain While we explored many regions in all Ward.
and snow storms cuts deeply into fine directions, it was the "Gorge Country" From the beginning, there was trouble
silts and clays to form a fantastic pink la- that commanded our attention first. with the Indians, but it was not caused by
byrinth. The Queens Chair, Choir Group, A stone's throw southeast of Cathedral reasons generally credited to such prob-
Moon Caves, Cave Canyon and Cathedral Gorge is the little community of lems. At first, the Paiutes were friendly
Ca< es are a few of the many outstanding Panaca —the first permanent settlement and were treated kindly by the Mormons.
formations to be seen. in southeastern Nevada. Problems be- As a result, the Indians began to take ad-
A walk into Cathedral Caves discloses tween the government and the Mormons vantage of the settlers —stealing horses,
very narrow passages with perpendicular at Salt Lake City in 1858 had prompted cattle and pilfering. When they became
Des'-i I /October 7974 V
its pioneer quaintness, its pioneer good-
ness; a town which has been kind to child-
ren and mindful of old folks; a town which
has been the birthplace of many and the
lifelong residence of a few; a town which
children have always loved and adults
never quite forgotten." We need more
communities like Panaca —where small
town friendliness and caring for one an-
other is still a way of life.
Heading south from Panaca, Highway
93 wanders along the western side of
Meadow Valley. In about five miles, the
Valley narrows as the rugged bulwark of
the Chief and Cedar Ranges press close to
one another. Colorful canyons beckon on
both sides of the road and glimpses of old
mining ventures are seen. Unexpectedly,
the road curves abruptly east around the
The large hotel-station at Caliente remains, though it no longer houses overnight
base of a mountain and enters the old
guests. The northern end [left] is now used as the City Hall.
railroad town of Caliente.
increasingly hostile a small detachment power, could not collect the amounts due. Known as Culverwill, before the rail-
of 20 men, under Captain J. Pearce (Mor- Reportedly, the settlers ran the Assessor road was completed in 1905, Caliente is
mon B.ttalion), was sent to protect the off at gun point. located at the junction of Meadow Valley
settlers. An adobe and log fort was erect- A long and bitter fight ensued with Wash and Clover Creek Canyon. In the
ed and the families moved inside during cases reachirg the Supreme Court. An early days, it was an important crossroad
the fall of 1864. 1870 survey disclosed Panaca to be in Lin- where trails into Utah, as well as northern
When the militia left, so did more than coln County, Nevada. This news nearly and southern Nevada, met. Construction
half of the settlers. Only six families re- dealt a death blow to the community. of the Salt Lake and Pioche Lines turned
mained at the fort. A townsite was sur- Many of the "saints" found living out- Caliente into a bustling railroad town
veyed in the spring of 1866 and the famil- side of Utah untenable and more than half complete with 12'yard tracks, machine
ies moved from the fort to town lots. New of the population had left by 1871 shops, eight-stall turntable and a fine
people began arriving and the little com- Panaca survived and this year celebrat- hotel-station. The latter is readily visible
munity began to grow. ed its 110th birthday. Today, as you drive from the highway today.
Though William Hamblin, of St. through the little town, broad, tree-lined Immediately south* of Caliente is Ker-
(.eorge, had located the Panacre Lode streets show the thoughtful planning of a shaw-Ryan State Park. The access road
(i ich silver deposits) in the Pioche Range hundred years ago. A modern cement- passes through high, massive eroded
in 1863, Indian hostilities and Brigham block building houses the post office and cliffs interspersed with rhyolite flows.
Young's disapproval of mining had pre- fire station. Across the street, the 106- Their pink, beige, orange and brown col-
vented its development. Hostilities were year-old "Panaca Mercantile" building oring complement the simmering green
under control in 1868 when Charles H. (now a marked historical site) still serves leaves of trees in the campground.
Hoffman and F L A . Pioche purchased the community as a general store. Each gorge has its own distinctive per-
the Mormon claims and formed the Mea- A short distance north, Panaca Hot sonality. Kershaw-Ryan is the "quiet
dow Valley Mining Company. The subse- Springs continues to furnish irrigation one" —lying secluded in a canyon among
quent mining boom brightened Panaca's water and provide a fine swimming hole towering cliffs. Facilities include spring
future. Population rose to over 500 and in summer. We ate our lunch at the water, stoves, modern comfort station,
businesses included a thriving lumber Springs, sharing the shade of a cotton- hot showers and group shelters. You will
mill, grist mill and farm products —all wood tree with a beautiful mare. From find trails to wander and side canyons to
eagerly sought by the growing mining this point we could follow the path of explore. Generally, Kershaw-Ryan is
camp 10 miles north. Meadow Valley as it rambled south. open the year around. However, in the
In 1866, an Act of Congress had added Horses idly grazed in still green pastures fall of 1973, the Park Ranger had been
" a strip of land measuring one degree in rimmed with yellow blossoms of rabbit transferred and the Park closed for the
width between the 37th and 42nd paral- brush. Idyllic in setting, it was easy to see winter.
lel" to the eastern edge of Nevada. The why Panaca had survived in a remote and A half-mile beyond the State Park road
new boundary had not been surveyed. hostile region. (west on Highway 93), a sign proclaims
Mormon settlers, believing Panaca was I was reminded of a statement in the "Beautiful Rainbow Canyon —16 miles
in Utah Territory, paid their taxes to book, "ACentury in Meadow Valley," by south." An old blacktop road leads down
Washington County, Utah. Lincoln Coun- the Panaca Centennial Book Committee. Meadow Valley Wash, eventually chang-
ty, Nevada assessed the Meadow Valley They described Panaca as "a town which ing to a graded road as it snakes between
residents but, due to the lack of man- for a century has kept its pioneer names, the Clover and Delamar Mountains.
Desert/October 7974
Should you desire, it is possible to follow
this mute for 80 miles and join Highway
91 just west of Glendale. Rainbow Can-
yon, while colorful and scenic, is also a
"naiural textbook" of geological forma-
Nevada's
tion:. It is my hope that this region will
become a Geological State Park offering
self-r.uided trails and markers of explana-
tion
R lad, railroad and stream parallel one
anoilier as they wander down Meadow
Valley Wash. At several points, the creek
has ponded and large groves of cotton-
wooils flourish. Trees also mark the sites
of ac I ive and abandoned ranches. Readily
seen from the car are rainbow-colored
mountains, a "petrified sand dune" high
on a mountainside and several very large
cave, in brick-red sandstone clifs. There
are no campgrounds, but plenty of places
to pull off and stay awhile.
When planning to visit a region, we
look ihrough our file of very old maps.
The\ often show points of interest no
longer included on modern ones. Seeing
"Tec Pee Rocks" indicated on an "oldie"
of Nevada's Gorge Country, we guessed
thev would probably be an interesting
rod lormation and elected to try our luck
finding them.
It had turned cold the previous evening
and morning brought a mackerel sky. It
wasn't going to be a good day for photo-
graiihs, but we decided to take our
chain es. J ust north of Caliente, we turn-
ed east at the Hot Springs road sign, fol-
lowed the paved road a short distance,
then kept right on the dirt road into
Clo* er Canyon.
Alier about two miles of travel, the
roai I deteriorated and became muddy and
samly in places. We engaged our 4WD
anc lound it prevented any difficulties as
we i i ossed and recrossed Clover Creek.
Jusi nver four miles from the highway, a Lincoln County
sign pointing south indicated "Pine Val-
ley I iam —Ella Mountain & East Pass." mountain! quite aware that not " a l l " of Nevada can
Dec iding this must be the route we were We enjoyed our lunch while watching be a State Park, but hopefully, steps will
looking for, we opened the gates, crossed the ever-changing light on the unusual be taken to include this outstanding for-
the i.iilroad tracks and followed a back- formations. Two exposures were noted mation in its Park System.
couniry road heading into the Clover and their resemblance to "tepees," es- Nevada's Gorgeous Gorge Country has
Mountains. A light rain had begun to fall pecially from a distance, was incredible. many hidden treasures, such as Tee Pee
and I he pungent fragrance of sage, pin- The rain stopped, but it was still very Rocks, that are little known and seldom
yor pine and juniper filled the air. We cloudy. Jerry set up his cameras and was seen by visitors. The exhilaration felt
curved around some low hills, then turn- ready when a momentary break in the when exploring and seeing Nature's
ed .uutheast. Four-wheel-drive became clouds came, sometime later. handiwork is far more intoxicating than
a necessity as we rounded another hill Examining Tee Pee Rocks, we specul- wine. Spending time in this land of mag-
and entered a loose-bottomed wash. ated they were originally sizable sand nificent colors and formations will send
Ahi.id, fantastic to behold, a village of dunes, covered by igneous flows, then you home with a soul full of beauty and a
gianl Indian tepees stood on the side of a uplifted and exposed by erosion. We are desire to return again. •
Desen October 7974 19
THE STATE OF UTAH offers its visitors Entry fees of $1.00 are charged at de- This well-developed scenic attraction has
and residents a wide variety of state veloped state parks, recreation areas and no counterpart anywhere, and is so out-
p.irks, recreation areas and historical some historical sites during the travel standing that an enthusiastic out-of-state
monuments. These range in size from season. Additional fees are sometimes visitor was recently heard to remark:
less than an acre for certain historical charged for camping or the use of marine " W e sure didnt know Utah had scenery
buildings, to almost 22,000 acres. Many or other special facilities. Annual permits like THIS! Why, this beats even the
provide access to lakes of various sizes, are available for $10 which provide entry Grand Canyon!"
and include launch ramps and other mar- to all Utah park system areas, plus reduc- What prompted this remark? And why
ine facilities. Most offer developed camp- ed fees for the use of certain facilities. such a strange name as "Dead Horse
giounds and picnic sites, some of these Those 62 years of age or older may pur- Point?"
excellent by any standard. A few are still chase these annual permits for half price. Well, picture a gigantic, slightly-tilted
undeveloped, but offer primitive scenic One of the oldest and most popular plateau edged with sheer cliffs hundreds
beauty or historical interest to those who parks in the state system is Dead Horse of feet high. Visualize one tip of this ele-
visit them. Point State Park in southeastern Utah. vated plateau narrowing to just a few
20
Desert/October 7974
COMPLETE
1975 BOOKCATALOG
LOST MINES TRAVEL GHOST TOWNS HISTORY
WILDFLOWERS TREASURE DESERT COOKERY
by F.A.BARNES
But the name? Why such a grim name
for .iich an outstandingly beautiful and
uniipie geological feature?
To understand this, pan back through
tim.'io the late 1800s, and focus in on the
"n<•( k" of this slender peninsula of land
thai is about a half mile back from its tip.
Then watch the action as a small bank of
covlioys herds a bunch of fractious wild
mu .i,ings past the neck and out onto the
point,
As the frightened mustangs plunge
through a wide gate in the wire fence that
is sii etched across the narrow neck, the
Desr.i i October 1974
"«'
-««wit!S|?*
B:
Below Dead Horse Point, the Colorado River bends in a gigantic gooseneck. Directly
below the point, yet still hundreds of feet above the river, a four-wheel-drive trail
heads for nearby Canyonlands National Park.
From the south, southwest or southeast, on the paved fork, is the entrance station
U.S. 163 goes to Moab. The turnoff to to Dead Horse Point State Park.
Dead Horse Point, and the northern part Just beyond the entrance station, the
of Canyonlands National Park, is 11 miles park visitor center offers a museum with
north of Moab, or 21 miles south of Cres- geological and archeological displays, an
cent Junction. information desk, restrooms and a first
The paved road to Dead Horse Point glimpse of the scenic beauty that is visi-
first enters a scenic, rock-walled canyon, ble in its full grandeurfrom farther out on
then climbs steeply onto the tilted mesa- the point. Here, too, a paved walkway
land. This elevated, cliff-bound plateau with protective wall can be taken around
once had herds of deer and wild horses the promontory in front of the visitor
grazing its broad, grassy meadows, but center.
today only an occasional white-faced As the road continues toward the point,
Hereford can be seen. Dirt side roads and a spur enters the Kayenta Campground,
trails lead to other scenic areas, to a full-developed camp with paved road
abandoned oil well drill sites or old cor- and pull-outs, 21 sites, restrooms and a
rals. Few of these side roads are passable trailer hold-tank dump station, all set
for any distance to family cars, but offer among luxuriant pinyon and juniper
good exploring for four-wheel-drive ve- trees. Each site has water, a paved slab,
hicles. fireplace, table and lockable storage cab-
Just beyond The Knoll, a rocky high inet beneath a shade-pavilion. The pavil-
point on the plateau that the road is cross- ion is electrically lighted and has an elec-
ing, the paved road angles left toward trical outlet for visitor use. Each site also
Dead Horse Point, and a dirt road contin- has a prepared tent pad.
ues straight toward the Island in the Sky J ust before the road reaches the very
district of Canyonlands National Park. tip of Dead Horse Point, it passes the old
J ust over six miles beyond this junction,
Continued on Page 46
31
r
by JACK PEPPER
by E.C.HOWARD
Desert/October 7974
extreme high point, only aspens remain cleft and think what it would be like to
in dense stands surrounded by alpine drive a team of horses and wagon down Clyde Forsythe's Famous . . .
me.ulowns. that steep pass.
A viewpoint at the summit unrolls a
magnificent panorama of land, now ris-
ing, now falling, across Capitol Reef Na-
Deer Creek Recreation Area—Long
Canyon—Velvet Hills—Circle Cliffs —
Take dirt road east out of Boulder about
High Quality
tion. 11 Park and the Waterpocket Fold,
until your eyes finally sweep up the sides
of the Henry Mountain range 75 miles
aw;\y.
eight miles to Deer Creek Recreation
Area. All-year clear water stream, shad-
ed cottonwood campsites surrounded by
colorful cliffs. A spacious BLM no fee
Gold Strike
Three National Forest campgrounds
are located near the road for easy access.
Oak Creek, Pleasant Creek and Single-
tree, all with improved facilities, are
area. The road continues through Long
Canyon for 10 miles, spectacular scenery
is created by vertical walls along the
canyon. Two natural arches on the south
Series
Four Mining Camp Scenes
aming towering pines. National Forest rim, one near the entrance, the other
camps are fee use areas, and maintained midway on a small side canyon. When All In 4-Color
in .1 clean and sanitary condition. you reach the Long Canyon Overlook, you
Each 1 4 " x l 7 " with white margins
F!oad North out of Escalante—Posy will see the Velvet Hills below. I am sure
you will want to spend some time taking on high quality paper suitable for
Lake —Hell's Backbone—Good, graded
pictures, rock collecting and wandering framing.
diri i oad climbs the western side of Dixie
National Forest. Pinyon-juniper ecosys- through this colorful landscape. It is an Send your name,
tem on lower elevations, ponderosa entirely fascinating place. mailing address, ZIP CODE and
pines, blue spruce, mountain ash, maple The Circle Cliffs are the haunts of pro-
and gambel oak are established around
waterways and lakes that abound in this
are i Some good fishing lakes and
Streams are accessible by 4WD only.
fessional photographers, prospectors and
non-professional rockhounds. The verti^
cal red sandstone cliffs almost surround a
great circular vlley of about 500 square
Only • 1 0 0
(POSTAGE AND TAX PAID)
Posy Lake turnoff is signed and swings miles, the east wall being a part of the TO:
left off main road, an excellent spot for a Waterpocket Fold. Roads into this valley REPRINT DEPARTMENT
lun h picnic or just relaxing a bit, even are dirt, but can be traveled, with care, in DESERT MAGAZINE
some fishing. Not a large lake, but a small passenger cars. With your BLM map, it is PALM DESERT, CALIF. 92260
jewel surrounded by aspens and conifers easy to find your way around, as main
thai reflect in the blue water. junctions are signed.
Esicktrack two miles to main road and
on lo Hell's Backbone bridge above
This would be a good trip to undertake
when you must leave Escalante Country,
BURIED TREASURE.
Dealh Hoi low Canyon. The bridge is built for the Burr Trail down through the Wa-
over .i narrow sliver of rock and connects terpocket Fold connects with a road south LOCATE IT FROM \ V
two mountains. Mule skinners, who to Bullfrog Basin, or north through A LONG DISTANCE \
packed ore and supplies up out of the Notom to Highway 24 at Capitol Reef Na- With my sensitive J
ma:.s of sharp pinnacles over narrow tional Park. 1 DIRECTIONAL LOCATOR
trails in pioneer days, coined the names Yes, Escalante Country unfolds scenic Send for my FRF.F. INFORMATIVE
to describe their feelings about the place. wonders in every direction, vast, excit- BROCHURE and read about this
Eilue Spruce campground, just before ing and colorful Once you experience remarkable device
RESEARCH PRODUCTS
rea< lung Hell's Backbone, is a Forest this unique land, you will return! • P.O. Box 13441BU Tampa, Fla. 33611
Service facility with Pine Creek running
through it. Fishing, fire-grills and tables
are available. Good rock collecting area.
Hi>le-in-the~Rock — April, May, early
June, late September, October, Novem-
ber ,ind sometimes all of December are
GOKDOr
ideal to explore the desert country south
of E scalante to Hole-in-the-Rock. Grad-
1741 Cherry Ave., Long Beach, Calif
ed, r.ood-surface dirt road south out of
Phone (213) 591-8956
Escalante, 62 miles to road's end at his-
Open Monday thru Friday, 9:30 lo 6 Saturday, 9:30 to 5
torii cleft down the wall of the Colorado
Headquarters for:
Rivei Canyon. Pioneers blasted out a pas-
Lapidary Supplies • Jewelry Making • Rockhound Supplies
sage ihrough the narrow opening to lower
Silver & Gold.Casting Machines • Cut Stones • Rough Rock
theii wagons for the river crossing. Here
Write for FREE ALL NEW GEM SHOPPER
you may view the waters of Lake Powell
from ihe rims, or climb down through the
Give
eeupon on page
Fun and Profit the discrepancies, orthoclase has been
COMPASS'YUKON'
METAL-MINERAL DETECTORS COMPASS
I WITH
ALL NEW Rambling the 6 hardness indicator for more than
100 years, and no doubt will continue to
be used for a long time to come.
The similarity of orthoclase to other
Metal feldspars, especially microcline, makes a
PROFESSIONAL
MODEL 7MB * 2 4 9 50
Detectors good story, First, we would like to look at
Hocks
INDUCTION BALANCE DESIGN
the derivation of the names. Feldspar is a
OTHERS FROM $124.50 I Rentals group name, which evidently at one time
with was the only one in use. The present
COMPASS EXCLUSIVES:
Option by thinking as to its origin is that it is from
GROUND C0NOI1 I to Buy German. The word spath indicates some-
Glenn and thing that can be easily split. The word
14-Day
Money-Back
Martha Vargas feld is the word for field. Thus, feldspath
in German means a stone that can be easi-
Guarantee ly split, that is found in the fields. It has
ORTHOCLASE FELDSPAR:
PROSPECTING AND HIKING EQUIPMENT Number 6 in Hardness since been altered to the English form
BOOKS — TOPO MAPS feldspar. Recent research, however, indi-
cates that possibly the word has a Scan-
Write for IT IS UNFORTUNATE that orthoclase
feldspar was chosen as the number 6 dinavian origin.
FREE CATALOG hardness indicator. In a later column, we Until it was noticed that the feldspars
shall discuss it (and others) from the were a group of minerals, there were few,
DEALER INQUIRIES
standpoint of being somewhat erroneous, if any, other names in use. Today, we
INVITED
but the factor that dismays most amateur know a large number of types of feld-
Inc.
GEM VILLAGE, BOX 317
BAYFIELD, COLORADO 81122
monoclinic system in which two of the
crystal axial directions (faces for our pur-
poses) meet at 90 degrees (right angles)
to each other. The third direction lies at
an angle other than 90 degrees. (The
name monoclinic means, again Latin,
mono — one, clinic— inclined.) In the case
Featuring the latest in: of microcline, the two directions that lie at
90 degrees in orthoclase, lie at an angle
other than 90 degrees, thus all angles are
LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT ROCKS AND SPECIMENS
oblique, and now we have a crystal that is
INDIAN JEWELRY SILVER AND SILVERSMITH SUPPLIES a member of the triclinic (three inclined)
CABACHONS HANDMADE BLANK MOUNTINGS AND system.
ALL KINDS OF FINDINGS At first thought, a crystal that has all
faces meeting at other than 90 degrees
—WHOLESALE AND RETAIL— could easily be separated from one that
has two which meet at 90 degrees. The
SEND ONLY $1.00, REFUNDABLE ON FIRST ORDER OF $10.00 OR MORE.
catch here is that we have not stated how
42 Desert/October 1974
degrees they are apart. When we
tell V11" that, for microcline, two faces
made from feldspar. The body of the
fixture is made for a powder of one consis-
PROSPECTING
meet at 89Vi degrees, it now becomes al-
most ridiculous. The name microcline
tency, the glaze may be made from a
more finely divided powder, or a slightly TREASURE HUNTING
certainly fits the situation, but does noth- different type of feldspar.
ing foi the person with the specimen in As mentioned above, the mineral col-
his h.nid. lector prizes feldspar specimens. The
To cet back to our original statement crystals of both orthoclase and microcline
aboui orthoclase being an unfortunate being nearly identical, form identical
choicr, to add to what is discussed above, types of twins. One type of twin, called a
we find that microcline has a hardness of carlsbad twin, is named for Carlsbad,
6V2. Now the mineral collector has two Czechoslavakia. This is two crystals
minei. 11s that look exactly alike, and each attached side-by-side, or intergrown into
has ;i different hardness! each other. A second type twin, named
Miiny mineralogists have insisted that bavenoffor Baveno, Italy), is two crystals
the two are really one mineral with some so intergrown that they are almost per-
variations. If this could be proven, it fectly square in outline. A third type, not
wouM certainly assist the student, but the as common as the other two, is the mane-
laboratory seems to place them farther bach twin (named for an individual). This
and Luther apart. For example, ortho- is two crystals attached by their sides so
clase < hanges to a third type of feldspar that there is a deep notch between them.
when heated to a high temperature. Mi- The notch is the result of faces that meet
crocline remains unchanged up to and be- at less than 90 degrees.
yond its melting point. Neither of these two minerals are of SEND FOR FREE
Th'' two minerals, being so similar,
have imilar modes of occurrence. Both
great interest to the gem cutter, with the
possible exception of moonstone, which 1974 CATALOG
are found in lavas and other igneous is a form of orthoclase. Moonstone is the
KEENE ENGINEERING *"*•'
rocks Both are found in rocks that have result of an intergrowth of another feld- 11483 Vanowen St., North Hollywood, CA 91605
been It.iked (metamorphosed), as well as spar in orthoclase, in which the second (213) 764-6114 — (213) 877-7240
44
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At last an All New completely illustrated
of the high plateau. These are solar eva- to promote safe enjoyment of this cliff-
poration ponds where salt solutions bound park, the sheer numbers of visitors
pumped from deep mines are concentrat- have made tragedy inevitable. Unwary
tmanual of Desert Mobility. The Baja Boon- ed before further refinement. The mill pets have fallen to their deaths, as have
dockers Bible "TO HELL ON WHEELS".
$2.95 Postpaid by Alan H. Sicbcrt that processes the mineral slurry to re- several visitors over recent years. The
California residents add 6% Tax
BROWN BURRO PRESS, Box 2863 ( D M ) , Pasadena, Ca. 91105
move the valuable potash is out of sight cliff-rim wall is well designed and effec-
"The Largest Selection of Pendleton
farther up the Colorado River. tive, but cannot save young boys who
Sportswear This Side of Disneyland!" But, seeing the view from Dead Horse climb over it while chasing lizards.
Point is only part of the picture. Viewing Both state and national park officials
Bill Tosetti's the point, itself, from various angles, is who administer the parks in the canyon
The
PENDLETON
the other part. This can be done from country of southeastern Utah do every-
Specialist land, air and water, and is spectacular thing practical to prevent such tragedies,
For Men & Women from all three. but despair of walling or fencing the hun-
Air tours, offered by nearby scenic tour dreds of miles of dangerous rims that can
FREE operators, can provide views of Dead be reached by park visitors. Truly, it is a
PENDLETON MAIL ORDER CATALOG Horse Point from almost any angle, in- problem with no solution, because it is
Since 1954 -17632 Chatsworth St.
cluding from below. Jet boat tours on the simply not possible to make wild, natural
Granada Hills, Calif.
[213)363-2192 Colorado, offered by two Moab river canyon-plateau terrain absolutely safe for
guides, show the Point best as the tower- everyone.
FIND BURIED TREASURE ing, slender peninsula that it is. Float-
tour passengers, on their way down the
Dead Horse Point—a grim name based
upon an unhappy event. Or at least ac-
Locates buried gold, silver, coins,
jewelry, old weapons. Works river toward Cataract Canyon, also see cording to the official story dramatized
through earth, vegetation,
water, wood, etc. the Point. Some even camp overnight on earlier in this article. But every tour guide
Write for free catalog and fasci- /%Xmr 1 9 9 5 sandbars directly below the jutting stone in the region has his own version of how
nating treasure booklet. //J^^^ in 10050
Financing available. / ^ ^ promontory. the park got its name. Some even have a
New Relco detec- Three Moab back-country tour guides variety of stories —take your pick. A few
5 powerful tors send electronic
models ^beam far into earth to also offer land tours that travel along the of these tales are serious, some are delib-
''seek out treasures lost or trail that skirts the base of Dead Horse erately outrageous and a few are so out-
hidden throughout the cen-
turies. Signals when object Point on a sloping terrace far below the landish they elicit only the groans associ-
is detected. Most powerful ated with the most ridiculous puns.
made. overlook, but still hundreds of feet above
RELCO, Dept D-318 Box 10839, Houston, Tex. 77018 But no matter which of the many tales
about the naming of this scenic viewpoint
'.••.' ::
• • • . ; • • Wants An Index...
I just received my August issue of Desert
nts•
Stability
is more than a word*
Stability or flamboyance. One will survive own a Silver Streak travel trailer or motorhome,
under stress. For a quarter of a century Silver you have a product that has proved itself for a long
Streak produced a luxury recreational vehicle time. And it's here to stay. That's stability.
aircraft constructed to meet the most rigorous Water-Guard purifier is standard equipment on all
tests of the road. The success is legend. Stability
means endurance. In recent indecisive times the models.
Silver Streak name stood strong. Production didn't Send for literature and location of your nearest
hesitate, quality never faltered. When you dealer.