FOUNDATION FAILURE

The Causes of Foundation Failure

Foundation movement may result from a wide range of factors, which can include:
Shrinking or swelling of clays caused by changes in moisture content
Compression of a soft layer in the ground as a result of the applied foundation loads
Soil softening
Frost heave
Improper back filling
Variation in groundwater levels
Erosion
Vibration from nearby construction
Hydrostatic Pressure
Inadequate design of basement walls and footings, before construction, traditionally account
for 75 to 85 percent of all problems in residential structures built upon expansive clay soils.
These failures are generally divided between two broad classes lateral
pressure and differential settlement. Both classes of failure generally have few primary
causative factors.
Lateral pressures on basement walls have four likely sources:
Pressure from soil weight
Pressure from soil swell
Hydrostatic pressure
Pressure from frost
Identifying lateral pressure damage is not difficult, but accurately quantifying the
contributing sources is very difficult and should only be handled by a qualified engineer. The
inward bowing of a basement wall is the simplest indication of lateral pressure. The bowing
generally occurs when the external forces exceed the wall strength. The maximum bowing
will often occur near the center of the wall because the adjoining perpendicular walls provide
support in the corners. If bowing becomes severe, these walls can collapse inward.














Cracking can also occur when lateral pressure exceeds the strength of the concrete or
block wall. The most common crack pattern begins in the corners and move up or down at 45
degree angles in concrete walls. For block walls, the cracks move along the mortar joints in a
stair step pattern. Often these cracks end at a long horizontal fracture that parallels the
basement floor.
Lateral pressure can affect the overall integrity of a house. Severe damage results in a
visible opening between the top of the basement wall and the structure. Since water is one of
the main causes of these cracks, water infiltration becomes significant in the largest of the
cracks. Filling these cracks with epoxy, without solving the water problem, only moves the
lateral pressure to another section of the wall.
The difference of the outside ground level and the basement floor creates a mass of
soil that must be retained thus causing a lateral pressure. The pressure of soil weight is
typically considered during the design of an engineered wall using theoretical earth pressures.
Clay soils undergo a change in volume when the moisture content of the soil changes.
When expansive clays are placed against basement walls, the swelling of these soils can
induce lateral pressures not accounted for in the original design. Cyclic shrink/swell can also
reduce the shear strength of the backfill and thus increase the lateral pressures. The solution
to this problem can be as easy as replacing clay backfill with gravel or other non-swelling
material. When used in conjunction with a footing drain, gravel will prevent increased lateral
pressure.
Hydrostatic pressure is pressure exerted by a fluid due to its weight. Hydrostatic
pressure against a basement wall develops when water fills voids or ponds
within backfill immediately adjacent to the wall. This water build up can cause dripping,
seepage, dampness or efflorescence (salt residual). Leakage during heavy rains or poorly
designed/maintained drainage increase hydrostatic pressure. Like soil swell, hydrostatic
pressure is not typically considered during design and construction of basement walls.




Water that accumulates in backfill and then freezes may cause large lateral pressures
on basement walls. Severe damage can result from frost causing lateral pressures much
greater than even hydrostatic pressure. The expansive natures of water crystals have been
known to create catastrophic structural damage.
Backfill, that is heavily clay laden, present long term lateral soil pressure problems.
Their cohesive nature makes it practically impossible to re-compact them to a uniform
moisture content and density. Clay backfills require significantly stronger basement walls to
withstand the larger horizontal pressures. The obvious solution is to backfill with non-
cohesive aggregate with proper drainage.
Structural settlement is characterized as either total and /or differential settlement.
Total settlement is a complete structure downward movement. Differential settlement is the
difference in vertical movement between various locations causing structure distortion.
Generally, total settlement is not a critical factor as long as it is uniform. Utility connections
are affected to the greatest degree by total settlement. Even relatively small differential
settlements can cause cracks in floor slabs, brick walls and drywall.










Settlement can be tolerated in most homes provided it is within specified limits. Small
amounts of settlements are anticipated in most design work. When homes experience
excessive settlement special procedures must be employed to stop or limit the amount of
settlement. These special procedures usually employ the use of resistance or helical anchors.
A foundation engineer is recommended when implementing underpinning procedures



STEP CRACKS









FACTOR
Step cracks may also be present in bulged, leaning, or horizontally pushed foundation walls if
they were constructed of brick or masonry block, or possibly (though less common) of stone.
Step cracks will of course also occur in building masonry block foundation walls and in brick
masonry walls that are not leaning or bulging particularly, where frost or settlement have
been causing an "up and down" movement in the foundation or footing.
Earth pressure or frost have pushed such a wall horizontally, breaking the masonry courses
near a corner or wall-end in a stair-step pattern such as we see in this little example of water
and frost damage to a brick retaining wall.
SOLUTION
A crack in a plaster wall is often the result of the plaster pulling away from the lathes. To fix
the crack, you will need to reattach the plaster to the underlying wood slats. This is usually
done by injecting an adhesive behind the plaster.
We have to select the right foundation.








SEDIMENTATION STRUCTURES








FACTOR
Erosion

SOLUTION

1. Fix Minor Cracks with Epoxy
Concrete slabs can develop hairline cracks over time. When cracks are minor they can be
cleaned out then filled with epoxy glue or similar materials made specifically for concrete
crack repair.
2. Maintain Consistent Moisture Levels
Proper and consistent moisture levels are critical to maintaining a strong foundation. During
dry periods it will be necessary to keep the foundation moist to avoid problems caused by
shrinking soil. A good way to help the ground around your foundation stay moist is by
installing rock beds 18 24 away from your foundation. These beds allow rain and
sprinkler water to penetrate deep into the soil around your home. Be careful not to overwater
your soil, a good rule of thumb to follow is water your lawn enough to keep your plants and
landscaping healthy.



Beware, you may hear that purchasing a foundation watering system is a good idea, however,
in our experience, watering your foundation exclusively can actually do more harm than
good. Because we cannot predict future rainfall, adding extra moisture to your foundation can
backfire in the event of a storm or prolonged period of rain, causing the soil underneath your
home to expand more than normal. Weve repaired many homes with foundation watering
systems, which have experienced soil upheaval due to increased expansion from
overwatering.
3. Monitor Drainage
Gutters and downspouts are another critical factor in maintaining a solid foundation. Properly
sized and installed gutters and downspouts direct water away from your home preventing
heaving of the foundation which is caused by excess moisture. Downspouts should discharge
water approximately 5 feet from the foundation built on sandy soil and 10 feet from
foundations built on expansive soils.
4. Beware of Collecting Water in Low Areas
In ground drains can be installed to assist in drainage of low areas. The drains should drain
into areas of lower elevation or into a gravel filled catch basin.
5. Ensure Proper Grading
Proper grade, with ground sloping away from your foundation is a must for a healthy house.
Slope should be about 3 to 5 percent within 10-feet of the foundation.
6. Watch for Puddling Water near your Foundation
After a rainstorm look for water puddling near your foundation. If there are puddles you need
to find a way to direct the water away from the house. Solutions vary. You may need to
install a french drain, cut a swale, or improve the grade around your foundation. Contact a
professional to help you with the best solution for your problem.
7. Consider installing a Moisture Barrier
If the grade around your foundation cant be corrected install a moisture barrier near your
foundation as part of a program for minimizing moisture migration under the foundation.
Effective moisture barriers are at least 5 feet deep.
8. Install Erosion Control Systems where Necessary
In areas where the grade is extreme and erosion is possible install erosion control systems to
assure the stability of slopes and foundation. Erosion control can include the use of grass or
other ground covers, concrete pavers, rocks, landscape timbers, concrete, liners, etc.
9. Perform Yearly Plumbing Inspections
The entire plumbing system, including sewer lines and sprinkler systems, should be checked
periodically for leaks. Repair leaks as soon as you find them










Another solution for cracking.