Travelogues

From Karachi to Kaghan

Memories of a Great Trip

By:
Hameed Diplai

Kids were very much excited to have fun during summer vacations and they were
setting up and identifying potential spots to make vacations more enjoyable but finally it
was decided to go to our hometown where all family members were planning to gather
around. Luckily, rains started and children got a pleasant environment there and
enjoyed a lot. While setting to return to Karachi back, one morning I received a phone
call of Imran who shared good news of my nomination for a training to be held in
Bhurban in mid July. Colleagues in office Khalid Aziz, Imran, Hassan Marri, Javed Sheikh,
Sajid Khaskheli were also nominated for same training.

Brainstorming sessions were started to convert the opportunity in unforgettable trip and
make it memorable event. All agreed to avail leave few days earlier than training and
few days after training and idea of travelling to Kaghan valley was unanimously agreed
by all friends.

Unforgettable movements started from 11th July 09 at Qaid-e-Azam International Airport

when Imran informed that he has forgotten his air ticket in office. There was closing
time of boarding so all faces were washed out but Ms. Ambreen Bhutto (boarding
counter) helped out and put the matter at an end by getting another print of ticket. So
we could start our journey ahead on 0400 pm.

Eshwar Kumar was addition in group who joined us at airport in personal account as he
was not participant of the training.

It was really very pleasant to hear while landing that flight is setting up to land at
Shaheed Benazir Bhutto International Airport Islamabad. This government has done
nothing to uplift living standards of general public but using her name as label.

Outside the Shaheed Benazir Bhutto International Airport, a high roof van was in waiting
for us which arranged by Imran through one of his contacts in Islamabad. Before setting
in the van, we shared our program with Farooq (Van Driver) who ensured no harm in
visiting Kaghan valley.

Instead of taking rest, group came to a decision to spend the evening in seeing the
sights and we moved to Rawal Dam.

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Rawal dam is an artificial reservoir located in Margalla Hills in Islamabad that
provides the water needs for the twine cities of Rawalpindi and Islamabad. This artificial
reservoir covers an area of 8.8 kilometers. The maximum height of the reservoir is 133.5
ft (40.7 m) with 3 square miles of length and 102 ft maximum depth. 19.5 million
gallons of water supplies to Rawalpindi per day whereas 2.5 million gallons of water
supplies to Islamabad per day.

A number of people were visiting this location but since CDA has developed Lake View
Park alongside Rawal dam, majority of people prefer to go there and Lake View Park has
become a favorite picnic point in Islamabad. After spending very few movements at
Rawal dam, we moved to newly constructed Lake View Park. The area around
the lake has been planted with flowering
trees and laid out with gardens, picnic
spots, and secluded paths.The terraced
garden and the lake are used for picnics,
fishing and boating. The highest point in
the park offers a scenic view of the lake.
Boating, sailing and other diving facilities
are managed by private clubs. Scooter
riding in Lake was a great experience we
came across. This was really a marvelous
moment. Few friends were looking for spots for making photographs and some were
exploring beauty in human faces.

After sunset, we moved to Balochistan House

where two rooms were booked for us. Hassan
Marri made use of his contacts for booking of
the rooms in Balochistan House. While going to
our destination, our van was stopped at so
many points for security clearance. Islamabad
was presenting a view of warzone. Security
checks are good but fruit for thought is that how
does terrorists/suicide bombers break this
security network? In spite of foolproof security
arrangements, how a terrorist can enter and
roam in Islamabad?? Commenting over current
political scenario and security conditions we shift our luggage in rooms and set to move
to Pir Sohawa to take a dinner.

Pir Sohawa is 16 kilometers up and located at the height of 5,000 feet in Margalla
Hills from Daman-e-Koh. Pir Sohawa is a highland scenic spot in Margalla Hills. A
number of cars were observed while rushing towards the Pir Sohawa after sneaking
their way through the steep road.

We had to wait for one and half hour to occupy a table in Monal Restaurant. It is
commonly misconceived that Monal Restaurant is located in Pir Sohawa but Pir Sohawa
actually is the name of a rural village located a few kilometers further down from Monal

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and located in district Haripur of NWFP whereas Monal is located in ICT (Islamabad
Capital Territory). Monal Restaurant was constructed in 2006 that offers panoramic view

of Islamabad from its large terrace.

We occupied a table at the edge of terrace from where view of Islamabad was looking
just like sky get down at earth with its stars. Open atmosphere with airy seating
arrangements at the restaurant made it a decent place. We found it a best place to
enjoy meals especially in the evening time. With excellent administration, Monal
Restaurant offered a delicious dinner that will never be forgotten.

On next day (12th July 2009), we passed our most of time in roaming on the roads
because nobody was interested to visit common picnic spots. After taking lunch at
Savour Foods, we moved to Saidpur village.

Saidpur village is located just off the Margalla Road, hardly a five minutes drive
from the Islamabad. In spite off many visits to Islamabad, I had never heard about the
Saidpur village. The name does not give an impression of upscale village but one can

imagine it as a very rural and traditional village. This can be said achievement of Capital
Development Authority (CDA) who developed Saidpur into a tourist attractions and
spending a lot of money and efforts on bring an old village back to the life and giving it
a picturesque look. According to some sources nearly 400 millions rupees has been
spent on bringing the village back to the life.

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Saidpur is 4 to 5 hundred years old village. Its history and heritage is enriching with
myths and folklore. The village is located in the Margalla Hills overlooking Islamabad.
According to history, Saidpur is named after Said Khan, the son of Sultan Sarang Khan,
the Gakhar Chief of the Potohar region during Emperor Babur’s time. According to some
writers, “The Persian book “Kaigor Namah” beautifully describes the place (Saidpur)
during the visit of Mughal commander Raja Man Singh in about 1580. Raja Man Singh
was so enamored by village that he turned it into a place of religious worship. Saidpur
was declared a pilgrim center and Rama kunda (pond) was preserved right up to 1947.

While entering the village, the first thing one

observed a Hindu temple with green colored dome
and a very close to it a small building with two
orange colored domes also be visualized. This
building is known as gurdwara (Sikh Shrine).
Between the both worship places, there is a
building known as orphanage in old times. The
amazing thing that surprised everybody is survival
of temple and gurdwara in such a village where
no Hindu or Sikh population resides since
partition. It was told that since partition, these
buildings were converted into government schools
and remained undamaged. Currently CDA shifted
the schools and renovated the temple and
gurdwara in their original form. Orphanage is converted into a photo gallery where old
photos of Saidpur village are displaced.

Shrine of Zinda Pir (Living Saint) is an additional uniqueness of Saidpur village. Khawaja
Khizar is known as Zinda Pir. His shrine was situated approximately 200 hundred feet
above the temple on the hill slope under a pair of old trees. According to myths, Khizar
having drunk from Aab-e-Hayat (the fountain of life) attained immortality and roams the
under the earth, usually along with riverbanks, lakes and mountain streams. Khizar in
Urdu poetry is often used as symbol for a person who guides lost people.

After spending some hours in Saidpur village we returned to Islamabad. While going
back, beauty and mythology of Saidpur kept us in its hold. I was thinking that increasing
trend of urbanization can be stopped by providing
all kind of such facilities includes quality schooling,
modernization of traditional skills, sewerage and
sanitation. Currently, a rapid shift of rural
population is observed into urbanization only
because of lack of basic amenities.

Imran and Sajid were given task to organize a

pleasurable evening and they successfully
organized a wonderful evening at Balochistan
House that was enjoyed at all. Eshwar was man of
the match. He was one who filled the evening
with colors and contrasts. Really his contribution in evening made it unforgettable. We

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took dinner at Food Park. Makai di Roti and Sarsoon da Saag will always be in our
minds.

At Food Park, spending next day was decided to be in Lahore. Some friends were of the
opinion to go to see remaining locations in Islamabad whereas other groups put his view
that seeing all the spots shouldn’t be essential but important thing should be level of
enjoyment even at one location. Keeping in view the democratic principles, unanimous
decision was taken by getting individual opinion and vote. Second group succeeded and
Lahore was decided to be next destination of our group. I was fond to see Alhamra and
Imran proposed to set a trip to Lahore Zoo. All agreed on both proposals and some
friends added Jallo Park to visit. Regarding traveling, it was finalized to use Motorway
while going to Lahore whereas GT road while coming back.

Road distance from Islamabad to Lahore is approximately 300 Km from GT road

whereas Motorway has a span of about 379 kilometers. We took lunch at Peacock
Restaurant at Motorway. Though, food was not so delicious but available
services/facilities at interchange were commendable. I was comparing Motorway and
superhighway from Karachi to Hyderabad. Only Motorway police was common thing at
both the roads. At superhighway, toll tax is collected in millions each year but road
presents a view of a link road to remote village.

Being an ancient city, Lahore is full of architectural features. Lahore is second largest
city in Pakistan after Karachi. Lahore often is called garden of Mughals because it’s rich
Mughal heritage. The city is also referred to as the cultural heart of Pakistan as it is the
center of Pakistani arts and films. Historically, Lahore has successfully served as the
capital of the empires of the Shahi kingdoms in the 11th century, the Ghaznavids in the
12th century, the Ghurid State in the 12th and 13th century, the Mughal Empire in the
16th century, the Sikh empire in the early 19th century and it was the capital of the
Punjab region under the British Rule in the mid 19th and early 20th century. Lahore is
also home to many British colonial structures built in the Mughal-Gothis style, such as
the Lahore High Court, the General Post Office, the Lahore Museum and many older
universities including the University of the Punjab. Lahore has many points to visitl
Lahore Museum, Minar-e- Pakistan, Badshahi Masjid and Shalamar gardens are
synonymous with the word Lahore. Tomb of Jhangir, Noor Jahan and Badshahi Masjid
has magnificent architectures as do many other buildings across the Lahore.

Interestingly, though Punjabi native language of Lahori people but now Urdu has started
becoming more prominent in Lahore and looks like status symbol. According to the 1998
census Lahore’s population was neatly 07 million which now estimates to reach at 10
million. By this population, Lahore is fifth largest city in South Asia and 26th largest city
in the world.

We reached at Lahore in late evening and decided to get accommodation first before
moving to scheduled locations. Due to late arriving at Lahore, visit to Jallo Park was
escaped from our schedule. Yet we were supposed to move in search of room, Hassan
Marri stated screaming for doodh-patti chai (Milk Tea). Hassan was totally disappointed
in Islamabad because he did not find any Pathan’s dhaba (tea shop) which are very
easily accessible in Karachi. He was seen addicted of Pathan’s milk tea. Farooq

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understood the situation and turned the van to a tea shop. Though, it was not look like
Pathan’s dhaba but offered a milk tea up to satisfaction of Hassan. Later, we got very
reasonable accommodation at Lakshmi Chowk and moved to our first destination in
Lahore Alhamra Arts Council. We reached at one of its unit at Ferozpura where two
theaters of local arts groups were staged and hawkers were selling out tickets. Ticket of
first row was Rs. 350 per head. We used all our bargaining skills and hawkers in
competition of each other agreed on Rs. 150/= per head ticket. We entered into theater
hall and enjoyed local comedy in Punjabi and three filmy dances. Though we were not
expecting any thing fantastic but this was real entertainment for those who have very
limited resources of income. Script, dialogues delivery, background music, and other
elements are necessary to be reviewed to comment over any theatre but here all
elements are need to be ignored because main thing which this theatre provides is light
entertainment to a class who are denied provision of every single good thing in life.
Though I failed to remember the name of theatre group but appreciate their efforts to
entertain marginalized group of society.

Alhamra Arts Council is a huge wonderful complex consist upon massive halls,
Art Galleries , Adbi Bathak , Coffee shop, Art classes, Administration block, car parking,
open air area for programming and lush green gardens. Alhamra is basically an Arabic
word, which literally means a woman in “Red Clothes”. Alhamra is a successor to a
society with the name of Pakistan Arts Council founded on December 10, 1949. During
the last 20 years Alhamra has emerged as hub of all cultural activities in Lahore. The
Alhamra Arts Council retained architect nayyar Ali Dada in 1970 to design a 1000 seat
multi-purpose auditorium that was build and completed in 1979. Later, council was
placed under Lahore Arts Council which supervised the three subsequent phases of the
project: four octagonal structures for administrative offices and art exhibition galleries
that opened in 1984; a 450-seat theatre attached to the auditorium completed in 1985;
and a 250-seat lecture and recital hall finished in 1992. In nutshell it can be stated that

Alhamra has rightly been called as the heart of Lahori culture.

Eshwar continued his photography in theatre and captured all memorable seen of
theatre. All the way from Islamabad to Lahore, Eshwar remained engaged in taking
photographs. The reason behind this eagerness was his new digital camera which he
purchased before couple of days of trip to capture the movement of the journey.

On arrival back at hotel we took dinner at roadside restaurant where a number of local
massagers encircled us. Due to continue and restless travel, we deemed massage

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necessary to get some relief. Khalid was the first who started bargaining with massager.
Local massage is the best way to get rid of tiredness but do be habitual of it as addiction
of every thing is dreadful.

Khalid and Imran started working on weekly reports whereas other group members got
in bed so I had time to have chat with wife and kids.

On next day, we took breakfast at roadside dhabba. The sign board displayed on
dhabba was very much interesting that attracted us to take breakfast there.
“Desi Bakery key Atom bomb Sri-Paye”.

After taking a wonderful breakfast at Lakshmi Chowk, we moved to Lahore Zoo. Lahore
Zoo though was not big as Karachi Zoo but the hygienic conditions, walkways and
animal enclosures were observed better than others. Car parking area was very limited
and it was too hard to park vehicles. After getting entry tickets, we entered in and
enjoyed a lot.

Lahore Zoo is located in the heart of the city and is easily accessible to the people
belonging to all walks of life. It was established in 1872. Lahore Zoo is spread over an
area of 24 acres and currently hosts 1375
species. It started as a small aviary that
was donated by Lal Mahundra Ram.
Gradually it developed and its animal
collection also increased. Regarding
management point of view, Lahore Zoo
has been overseeing by different styles. It
remained under the management of
Lahore Municipal Corporation from 1872 to
1923. Thereafter, its control was given to
Deputy Commissioner, Lahore until 1962.
Then its management was placed under
the Livestock and Dairy Development
Department. Finally the management of Lahore Zoo was entrusted to the Wildlife &
Parks Department in 1982. Wildlife
Department after taking over the charge of
Zoo made awesome changes in housing the
exhibits, layout of buildings, landscape
pattern and administration etc with these
initiative/development it become self-
financing organization and now it is self-
reliant but many have remarked that there is
always room for improvement.

The walkways were paved with tiles and

animal enclosures were observed more
comfortable for animals and attractive for
visitors. Hygienic conditions of Zoo can be rating at average level which needs some
improvement. While walking though the enclosures, an unpleasant odor were

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experienced this needs to be handled carefully to avoid any hazardous to health of
visitors and animals as well. It was safely assumed that Lahore Zoo attracts
approximately 9,000 visitors daily and the number of people comprises on Eid and public
Holidays.

After Lahore Zoo we went to Liberty Market to just put capture it in eyes. As we visited
the market in first half (before lunch) so there was nothing special to quote here but yes
prices of everything were very high so nobody from our group could buy gifts for family.
We got back in van to go to Bhurban. As planned earlier, we prefer GT road to go
Bhurban via Islamabad. In comparison of motorway, GT road was very busy. It
observed that heavy vehicles prefer to use GT road. We took lunch at very renowned
Mianjee Restaurant. The specialty of the restaurant is Dal (Pulse) cooked in ghee
(original cooking oil take out of butter) and really we enjoyed traditional lunch with Dal,
Roti and Lasi.

It was very hectic to get at destination. All were tired and trying to sleep in van. After
sunset we arrived at PC Bhurban. Government of Punjab has now imposed a toll tax of
Rs. 200 per vehicle going to PC hotel through order number SOH III (C&W) 3-19/2008-
09 (RWP) dated 26/07/2008. So a new
honeymoon couple and students can
see beauty of PC if they will have some
extra money because hotel
management also charged Rs. 300 per
guest who is not supposed to stay
overnight in PC. PC is very expensive
and people with limited budgets can
not stay in hotel. While staying in PC,
we observed people in BMW and Land
Cruiser arguing with toll tax collectors.
All were seen unhappy with this
decision. If you want to avoid paying
this toll tax, you must leave your taxi
or own car outside and walk into PC by feet. By this you can avoid paying a toll tax but
you must have to pay Rs. 300 per guest to hotel management. This amount can be
refunded by getting food or juices in hotel. We paid Rs. 200 to government of Punjab
and entered into hotel. Our rooms were reserved so very easily we got checked-in and
quickly went in bed. Our three-day training was scheduled by next day (July 14, 2009).
While three days of training, we enjoyed not only stay in PC but we spend our evenings
in visiting Murree, and Patriata. Chairlift, cable car and walking at Mall Road left many
unforgettable memories with us. I would like to give historical brief about Bhurban,
Muree and Patriata.

Bhurban is a small town and a hill station.

It is located approximately 13 kilometers from
Muree city at a height of about 6,000 feet.
Bhurban is in fact a name taken from a nearby
forest. Bhurban is a tourist’s paradise with
fauna, flora and a wide variety species of

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animals not found elsewhere in Pakistan. PC Bhurban serves as a focal point and a very
popular point for tourist. PC is located approximately 10 kilometers from Murree city. PC
has 190 elegantly furnished rooms featuring a private terrace, modern bathroom, direct
dial telephone, television with satellite channels, in house movie channel, electronic key
system, electronic safe in room, and air-conditioning.

While training, a field visit was also designed and training organizer took all participants
of training to nearby village in Bhurban. Unfortunately, Khalid lost his cell phone in
village and despite many efforts it could not be recovered. All group members were
upset because cell phone of Khalid was loaded with very important snaps of trip. Khalid
contacted with office and managed to block his SIM card and cell phone as well. By
doing this, cell phone was not useful anymore for anybody. Its tip for everybody who
lost cell phone must contact with his/her service provider to block SIM card and handset
immediately.

Murree city is a popular hill station and a summer resort. Murree is located along
Islamabad-Kohala highway, some 30 km northwest of Islamabad. The name Murree is
derived from 'marhi', "high place" although there is a popular belief it is named after the
Virgin Mary.

Murree is one of the largest resort towns in the Galyat area of Pakistan. During British
Rule in the nineteenth century, its altitude was established at 7,000 feet (2,100 m), but
its actual altitude has now been
determined as 2,300 m (7,500 ft)
above sea level. Murree was founded
in 1851 by the Governor of Punjab,
Sir Henry Lawrence, and was
originally established for the British
troops garrisoned on the Afghan
frontier as a sanatorium. The
permanent town of Murree was
constructed at Sunny bank in 1853.
The church was sanctified in May
1857, and the main road, Jinnah
Road, formerly known as The Mall (and still commonly referred to as), was built. Until
1947, access to Jinnah Road was restricted for "natives" (non-Europeans). It is still
associated with Britain; many British fruits (including cherries, raspberries and
strawberries) thrive locally. There is a church, built in 1857, located at the centre of the
town, which is still used as a place of worship.

In the hot season it was the headquarters of the 'Lieutenant General of the Northern
Command'. The Commissioner of the Rawalpindi Division and the Deputy-Commissioner
of Rawalpindi also resided here during part of the hot season, for which period an
Assistant Commissioner was placed in charge of the subdivision consisting of Murree
Tehsil. The site was selected in 1850 almost immediately after the annexation of the
Province, and building operations commenced at once. In 1851 temporary
accommodations was provided for a detachment of troops; and in 1853 permanent
barracks were erected.

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In the summer of 1857, the local tribes of Murree and Hazara, including the Dhond
Abbasi and Tanoli, planned to attack the British Army. The campaign was led by the
chief of the Dhond Abbasi tribe, Sardar Sherbaz Khan, and by Malik Nawab Bahadur
Khan of the Tanoli tribe. They fought respectably against the British Army, giving the
British considerable difficulties. The British Army eventually signed an agreement with
the local Abbasi tribe, which was refused by the Tanoli tribe, thereby dividing the
opposition to the British. The British Army later ignored the agreement to take control of
Murree again.

Patriata also known as New Murree is a hill station in northern Punjab, Pakistan. It is
situated 15 km south-east of Murree hill. It is the highest point in the area and the hills
stand 9,000 feet above sea level.There is a chair lift and cable car system for
transportation to the highest point. The area is heavily forested and there are many
monkeys and leopards in the area.

Every movement was wonderful.

Amazingly, in spite of tiredness friends
were so excited at every footstep and
they converted a simple activity whether
it was lunch or shopping in a great fun.

After completion of training course on

17th, we got prepare for moving to our
new destination that was Wadi Kagha.
All agreed to wake up and get ready at
0730 in morning to move out but Bhurban was raining all the night and nobody got up
on time. Me and Khalid were the first who arrived at Nadia Hall for breakfast. When we
gave wake up call, Imran told that Javed is not convinced to go to Wadi Kaghan due to
rains. Javed made examples from his previous trips to Kaghan in favor of his opinion
and tried to convince group members on withdrawal of further program. Khalid and
Sajid strongly opposed the idea and put forward logic that rain is not necessary to be
everywhere so giving up the further trip will not be wise decision. Viewpoint of Javed
failed to convince group members so all got ready in minutes and we left PC in drizzling.

While going to Naran we stopped awhile at Ayobia and enjoyed trekking from Ayobia
to Donga Gali. The 04 kilometer long track is located at 8,200 ft above sea level.

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Track was established in 1930 and developed gradually. Gates are fixed at both
entrances and a fee of Rs. 5.00 is fixed to get on the trek. Ayobia is small town in the
North-West Frontier Province. It is also home to Ayobia National Park whereas Donga
Gali is one of the tourist mountain resort town of the Galyat area of Pakistan. It has an
altitude of 2,500 meters. It is located in Abbotabad District. During British rule, it served
as a sanatorium. Many Europeans loved to visit the area preferably in summer. While
trek ing, we could not observe any wildlife but scenic beauty around the track left many
good feelings with us. After taking some snacks at Donga Gali, we moved ahead to
Balakot.

Balakot is gateway to Kaghan Valley. It is located at the distance of 72 kilometers

from Abbotabad. The road to Balakot passes through the busy town of Mansehra.
Journey between Mansehra and Balakot is a charming experience. The black top road
passes though beautiful green hills and thick forest of Batrasi. Balakot has also its
historical significance. A famous battle was fought here between the Sikh Army and
Muslim freedom fighters in 1831. Hazrat Syed Ahmed Shaheed and Hazrat Shah Ismail
Shaheed sacrificed their lives here while fighting with Sikhs.

We arrived there at lunch time and took lunch at

the riverbank of Kunhar. Kunhar River is
famous because of its trout fish flows through
the Kaghan valley. Balakot, Paras, Mahandari,
Kaghan and Naran are main towns on its bank.
The River was badly hit by the earthquake of 8th
October 2005. Almost all the Balakot was
destroyed but according to local people only one
shopping center named “Madni Center” was
saved in earthquake. Only minor cracks were
observed in the building. “Owner of building is
strict with his principles and do not allow a music shop in center. Secondly, total rent of
building is spent on Masjids and poor people so ALLAH saved this center as many
Masjids and poor people depends on this source of income”, told people. Though hotels
and beautiful buildings are not yet reconstructed but in spite of that Balakot has once
again become a main trading center
of Kaghan Valley because of its
strategic location.

After taking a delicious lunch at very

economical charges, we moved to
Naran without stopped everywhere to
avoid night travel in mountainous
areas but we could not do this. We
got darkness in the way and had to
travel in nighttime to Naran. We were
listing thundering of falling water from
mountains. On the way to Naran, we
had cross a Glacier We also experienced crossing of a Glacier. A road was made in

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between of Glacier. Glaciers are enormous reservoirs of fresh water and their melt
water is an important resource which feed Rivers in Pakistan. These glaciers serve as
natural regulator of regional water supplies. Pakistan’s glaciers are spread over an area
of about 16,933 Km. Pakistan is a home of 108 peaks above 6,000 meters and
numerous peaks above 5,000 and 4,000. Five of the 14 highest independent peaks in
the world are here. But now-a-days environmentalists are very much about the worst
situation of melting of glaciers. This melting will badly affect Pakistan’s economy. Due to
this depletion, agriculture, drinking water supplies and ecological habitats will be
affected. Not only this but this melting will also be caused flash floods in many areas of
Pakistan. 17 kilometers decrease has been observed in Batura glacier while a
comparison study for October 1992 and October 2000.
(http://www.suparco.gov.pk/pages/abstract.asp?paperid=55)

We arrived at Naran in total darkness. Surprisingly, electricity supply was not provided
by government but people arranged Generators at own which supply electricity to the
town since sunset to mid night. Naran also serves as the base for the whole Kaghan
valley.

Kaghan is most attractive valley in the Mansehra District of Hazara in NWFP. The 160
kilometer long valley is famous as one of most popular summer holiday picnic point. The
valley features pine forests, alpine meadows and crystal clear water lakes and cool
mountain streams. The local people are friendly and simple. Gujar nomads are one of
the most interesting features of Kaghan Valley. They take their flocks of cattle to the
high pastures of the upper Kaghan Valley in spring and bring them down again in
autumn. While going to Kaghan one can find them camped along the road in their
typical tents or moving up or down the valley with their herds of pack animals, sheep
and goats. The Valley extends for 160 kms rising from an elevation of 2,134 meters to
its highest point, the Babusar Pass, at 4,173 meters. The ideal time to visit Kaghan
Valley is May to September. In May maximum temperature in valley is 11 centigrade
whereas minimum level of temperature is 3 centigrade. There are many myths that car
can not move to Kaghan but we observed people going in their cars, rental cars, taxies,
station-wagons and coasters.

Naran is located at 7,888 feet above sea

level. It is 82 kilometers away from
Balakot. The town is situated on the bank of
the Kunhar River at a point where the valley
widens. The river is also quite smooth here

and ideal for trout fishing and easy grade

river rafting. Naran becomes alive only in
summer starting in May, when the snow

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melts and the road to Naran become passable. In winter, a majority of the population
descends to the warmer climates of Balakot and Mansehra. Most visitors stay in Naran
for a few days while enjoying the various day excursions to Lake Saiful Muluk, Lalazar,
Lake Lulusar and Babusar Pass. There are also several short walks and treks around
Naran. From here you can ride a jeep or horse or hike in excursions to several
picturesque lakes, valleys and peaks.

Though more than 100 hotels were there but we could not find a single unoccupied
room. All hotels were booked and we were getting confused about night stay in chilly
weather. All were tired and thinking to take rest but due to unavailability of vacant
rooms, all were seen disappointed and kept quiet. Suddenly, a wayfarer came close and
said “Do you need a room?” all immediately gathered around him and asked about room
conditions. He demanded for Rs. 1500.00 per night and after bargaining, agreed on Rs.
1300.00 per night. We visited room. It was concrete room constructed behind a bricks
made house in a street. Four members of our groups occupied the room whereas one
more small room of three single beds was acquired in Rs. 1200.00 per night. Before
getting in bed, we just walk through the market. There was very simple market where
all the shops, restaurants, teashops, and hotels are situated. A variety of warm clothes
was available in the market. We returned soon and went in bed as next day schedule
was again very hectic.

Next day, we gathered around a roadside restaurant and took heavy breakfast and
moved to Jheel Lulusar. We hired a rental 4X4 Jeep for whole days only for Rs. 4,500.00
and agreed that jeep driver will take us first to Jheel Lulusar and then to Jheel Saif Ul
Malook. As we were more than capacity of jeep so we sat closely to each other. All were
seen fixed with each other. It was a great trip to Jheel Lulusar. Despite sunshine,
weather was very much pleasant. Sajid suggested applying sun blocks on face to protect
skin from scorching beams. All were happy and enjoying the trip but Eshwar was seen a
bit disappointed as he could not recharge battery of his digital camera. Since we left PC
Bhurban, he was continuously capturing photos of roadside scenes. In Balakot, some
how he could charge battery but again battery got expired after few kilometers of
Balakot and Eshwar missed beautiful landscapes of Kaghan Valley to capture in his
camera. The situation was a bit funny whenever he requested any member of group to
make a photo and all were making a fun of
him.

Both sides of road to Jheel Lulusar are

very scenic and greenery everywhere.
Waterfalls, chilly winds, and small pieces
of glaciers were very much supportive to
make a romantic mood but unfortunately
no opposed sex was available in group so
all were helpless taking only deep sigh.
Imran was thinking to visit Kaghan Valley
with family and for that he was asking
different possibilities of arrangements of
camping. We arrived at Jheel Lulusar at 1100 hrs.

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Lulusar in fact is group of mountains in
NWFP and famous for large lake situated
there which is a popular tourist attraction. It
is located at a height of 11,200 ft (3,410 m)
above sea level. The lake is the main source
of Kunhar river, which flows through the
entire Kaghan Valley through Jalkhand,
Naran, Kaghan, Jared, Paras and Balakot
until it joins the Jhelum River. The lake is 48
kilometers away from Naran, on the Naran-
Babusar road. Lulusar marks the historic
place where 55 participants of the 1857 war
of independence were arrested. Lulusar Lake is biggest a bit than other lakes available
around the valley and surrounded by snowcapped hills. There is a road being built
around the lake. The same road also leads to Babusar Pass. Lake Lalusar offers a
marvelous opportunity for fishing in dark blue waters.

On way back to Naran, we took lunch at zero point at the riverbank of Kunhar. It was
roadside eating place that offered a delicious food on very economical rates. While
taking lunch we avoided bottled water and used River water that was very cold and very

light in drinking.

Now we moved to Jheel Saif Ul Malook. All members were tired due to extensive travel
to Lulusar but excitement to see Saif Ul Malook worked as energizer. The mountainous
pathway to Saif Ul Malook was very risky. We experienced the saying “getting beauty is
not easy” in its real meanings. Only expert drivers can drive 4X4 jeep to Saif Ul Malook
on such a narrow and rocky track otherwise inexperienced driver can take to real
heaven not to heaven on earth (Saif Ul Malook). Getting to Lake Saif Ul Malook, we had
to cross over a glacier.

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Jheel Saif Ul Malook located at the northern end of the Kaghan Valley near
Naran. It is in the north east of Mansehra District in the NWFP. It is one of the highest

Lakes in Pakistan with an altitude of 3,224 m (10,578 feet) above sea level. The lake is
accessible by a 14 km road from Naran during summer.

On foot, the trek from Naran to the lake takes about 4-6 hours but try to walk up the
trek if you fit enough to climb about 3000 feet in eight kilometers. The clarity of the
water comes from the multiple glaciers all around the high basin which feed the lake. A
fairy tale written by famous sufi poet Mian Mohammad Bakhsh is associated with the
lake. The tale is called Saif Ul Malook. It is all about a love story of Persian Prince who
fell in love with a fairy princess at the lake. It is so far much popular believe of people
that in full moon fairies come down to lake and eyeballs got stuck up and forgot
twinkling after looking at Lake. It was like a
dream, I can not explain beauty of Lake in
words. All members became sculpture for
awhile. Eyes refused to change directions to
elsewhere. It reflected many colors in
seconds. No words, only feelings…landscape
can take someone to dream world where you
find yourself flying in sky among white clouds
with beautiful fairy. All tiredness runaway and
lovely scenery of Lake made everybody
romantic but Alas! There was nobody with us
to do romance so we converted dreamy
feelings into adventure and enjoyed pony-

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riding and boating. We rented 08 horses in Rs. 150.00 per horse. We took a complete
round of Lake on horseback. It was very much excited journey. We were afraid when
horses were crossing Lake from cold water and moving aside the glaciers. All members
of the group were almost experienced in handling the people but it was nice experience
to handle a horse. Anyways!! Horses were not so misbehaving.

After having a complete trip around the Lake, we booked a boat for full tip in Lake from
one side to another in Rs. 600.00. Boatman took us to other side of Lake and gave 20
minutes to make photographs or take some drinks and snacks. Malika Parbat (5290m) is
visible from here. We return to Naran at sunset and moved to our next destination that
was “Shogran”.

Shogran is situated 34 kilometers from

Balakot via Kawai. To reach this picturesque
place, take a side road on the right after
passing through Kawai. It is a steep 08
kilometers to Shogran. Road conditions are
good and normal car can easily be driven on
the road but inexperienced drivers can not be
recommended to drive. Excitement might be
fit in neck. Shogran is surrounded by thick
pine forests and with an altitude of 7,747 feet
above see level. There are a number of small
and medium size hotels in Shogran. We booked two double bed rooms in hotel for one
night in Pak Rs. 3,000.00. Panoramic views of snowcapped mountains can be viewed
from Shogran. Shogran has very little market with some traditional verities.

On next morning, we again rented a 4X4 jeep to visit Sari and Paya.

Sari and Paya is wonderful

excursion from Shogran. A rugged 08
kilomteres road climbs 2300 feet
through thick pine forest to the top
of Paya ridge, a lush green meadow
with spectacular view of Malika
parbat. We also observed varieties of
wild alpine flowers on the rolling
grassy slopes of Paya. According to
local people, many visitors are mostly
hike up Makra (spider) mountain
which is 12,743 feet from see level.
From Paya, trekkers must climb around 2,000 feet to reach Makra on the border of
NWFP’s Kaghan Valley and Azad Kashmir’s Neelum Valley. Local people recommended
hiking for those who have experience in high altitude hiking and knowledge about
mountain wilderness, safety rules and are properly equipped. Sari is a small lake on
the way to Paya. We did not find any rest point here so avoid staying there and just put
a look while moving up to Paya. Some teashops were available at Paya so we took light

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breakfast and enjoyed sipping hot tea while soaking in the majestic views of snow
covered mountains reflected in the lake. As we had to catch the flight so without delay,
we moved back directly to Islamabad via Mansehra and Abbotabad. On the way to
Islamabad, Sajid started narrating history of Mughal empires. His way of putting the
history in the picture was so wonderful that attracted everybody and grabs sleeping
from one’s eyes.

It was a great trip and all showed cooperation to each other and did not loose
temperament at any stage. This trip also tied up all friends in new relations which never
will be unfastened.

The last thing, at the time of departure, Imran forgot to bring his tickets and on arrival
back at Karachi, it revealed that Hassan forgot his luggage at Islamabad airport. So the
story ends up with NO COMMENTS….

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