Fabric Cutting

Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making
garments. Using the markers made from graded patterns and in accordance with the issue
plan, fabrics are cut to prepare garment assembly. This is the major operation of the
cutting room, of all of the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive,
because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.

What is Fabric Cutting?

The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting and for that pattern making
is the base. Cutting is separating of the garment in to its components and in a general
form it is the production process of separating (sectioning, curving, severing) a spread
into garment parts that are the precise size and shape of the pattern pieces on a marker.
The cutting process may also involve transferring marks and notches from the garment
parts to assist operators in sewing, chopping or sectioning a spread in to blocks of pieces
goods many precede precision cutting of individual patter shapes. This is done to allow
for accurate matching of fabric design or easier manufacturing of a cutting knife.
Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the specified fabric, a process
called "cutting." Currently, several cutting techniques exist, ranging from low- to hightech. Although scissors are used very rarely-only when working with very small batches
or sensitive fabrics-cutting continues to be done by hand, particularly in many lower
volume establishments. Here, cutters guide electric cutting machines around the
perimeter of pattern pieces, cutting through the fabric stack. An electric drill may be used
to make pattern notches. The accuracy and efficiency of this system is considerably less
than in computerized cutting systems.
Computerized cutting systems are achieving more widespread use as technology costs
decrease and labor costs rise. These computer-driven automated cutters utilize vacuum
technology to hold stacks of fabric in place while cutting. Cutting blades are sharpened
automatically based upon the type of fabric being cut. Gerber Garment Technology
manufactures one of the most commonly used cutting systems. This technology has the
advantage of being highly accurate and fast, but does cost considerably more than other
cutting techniques.

Choice of Cutting Technique:

The following points should be considered while choosing cutting
techniques:

1. Availability of cutting machines.

2. Number of plies or spread height- band knife for unto 6" height, straight knife for
higher height.
3. Type of garment parts- straight knife & knife cutter for bigger parts, band knife for
sharp corner, die cutter for small parts like pockets.
4. Type of fibre in the fabric- laser cutter should not be used for thermoplastic fibres,
water jet is suitable for low absorbency fibres like polyester.
5. Cutting speed required- computerized method for higher speed.
6. Quality of cutting- computerized techniques for high quality cutting.
7. Volume of production- straight knife & computerized techniques for higher volume
8. Cost of cutting.

REQUIREMENTS FOR FABRIC CUTTING

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting:

Precision of fabric cutting
Consistent cutting
Clean edge
Unfused edge
Supporting of the lay

1. Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per

exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on
methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then
cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness
of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting
accuracy.

It depends on:

Methods of cutting employed.

Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
Skill and motivation of the operator.

2. Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it
should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of
exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.
3. Clean edge: Free from fraying
4. Unfused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the

blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If

the fabric contains synthetic fibres e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends,
then fused edge may result in the fabric. As because most of those fibres melt at
around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric
wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be
a problem of irritation during use of garments. To avoid the problem of fused edge
formation, the following steps may be taken:
1. Reduce the height of the lay;
2. Reduce the cutting speed;
3. Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval;
4. Lubricate the knife during cutting.
5. Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric
cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure
that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.

Types of Cutting
Fully manual:

Hand operated scissor

Manually operated power knife:

Straight knife
Band knife
Round knife
Die cutting
Notcher
Drill

Computerized methods of fabric cutting:

Computer controlled knife cutting

Cutting by Laser beam
Cutting by Water jet
Cutting by Plasma torch

Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

It is the most useful cutting instrument in apparel
cutting. In apparel industry, more than 99% cases this knife is used. This machine is
called straight knife cutting machine because its cutter is straight in shape. It is used for
both woven & knit fabric. In this machine different types of straight knife are used
according to the different cutting objects. This machine provides good efficiency.

Features of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1. The main parts of this machine are straight knife, electric motor, handle, grinder,
base plate, stand/ knife holder, lubricating unit, wheel etc.
2. Could be used to cut higher depth of fabric.
3. Knife height is 10 cm to 33 cm.
4. Knife stroke is 2.5 cm to 4.5 cm.
5. Motor r.p.m. is 3000 to 4000.
6. Auto grinder is used.
7. Auto lubricating unit works for this machine.
8. Different types of knife edge are used for cutting different objects. Such as,
straight edge, wave edge, sew edge & serrated edge.
9. A Handle for the cutter to direct the Knife.
10. Knife guard is attached to the front of the knife.

11. Sharp & heavy corners can be cut.

12. Maximum 70% of knife height is used for fabric lay.
13. Wheels are under the base plate to move the machine smoothly.
14. Machine weight is around 12-15 kg.
15. Knife cut the fabric very fast due to high speed of motor. That increases the risk of
fabric damage.

M/C description:
The elements of a straight knife consists of
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
g)
h)

A base plate Usually in rollers for easy movement.

An electric motor.
Handle for the cutter to direct the blade.
Knife (Reciprocating motion).
Knife guard.
Grinding wheel used to sharp the knife during cutting.
Stand.
Roller wheel to move the machine over cutting table easily.

Working principle:
Two kind of power are required to operate a straight knife.

Motor power drives the reciprocating blade.

Operator power drives the knife through the lay.

The motor power needed is determined by

Height of the lay.

The construction of the fabric.

The curvature of the line being cut.

The stroke of the blade.

The greater the power of the motor the heavier will be the machine. The taller stand, the
thicker its cross-section and the greater its width, adding resistance to the forward
movement on a curve. The greater the blade movement the faster the blade cuts the fabric
and the more rapidly and easily the operator can push the machine. Operator effort is
affected by the weight of the motor, the shape of the stand, handle height, stroke,
sharpness of blade and the effect of the base plate rollers on the table surface.

Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Advantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1. A large number of fabric lays can be cut by the machine due to high length of
knife & r.p.m. of the motor. So, productivity is high.
2. Automatic grinding.
3. Automatically lubrication.
4. Comparatively cheep.
5. Can be moved easily by wheel.
6. Suitable for straight line & curve line.
7. Can be cut high curve line than round knife.
8. Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantages of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1.
2.
3.
4.

High speed of the machine causes high risk of damage.

Faulty knife could damage fabric layer.
Motor weight creates knife deflection which may be creates faulty pieces.
Risk is high for physical damage of operator.
5. Knife required to replace.