Professional Documents
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SP62 Urbano Offprint PDF
SP62 Urbano Offprint PDF
VOL. LXII
PEETERS
LEUVEN PARIS WALPOLE, MA
2013
Table of Contents
11
29
41
57
69
81
89
VI
Table of Contents
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123
131
135
HISTORICA
Guy G. STROUMSA, Oxford, UK, and Jerusalem, Israel
Athens, Jerusalem and Mecca: The Patristic Crucible of the Abrahamic
Religions ..............................................................................................
153
169
185
213
231
Table of Contents
VII
313
353
VIII
Table of Contents
419
431
481
515
Dressing a Christian:
The Philosophers Mantle as Signifier of Pedagogical
and Moral Authority
Arthur P. URBANO, Providence, USA
ABSTRACT
In early Christian iconography, Jesus, the saints, and other biblical figures are often
depicted dressed in the characteristic cloak of the Greek philosophers. The garment,
known as the pallium in Latin and the tribon in Greek, was a symbol of moral virtue,
self-sufficiency, and wisdom. Literary sources demonstrate that this manner of dress
was not limited to portraiture, but was worn by some prominent Christian teachers and
clergy into the fourth century. Figures such as Justin Martyr, Tertullian, Heraclas of
Alexandria, and others wore the philosophers mantle as a public, visual communication
of their intellectual expertise and moral authority. This article presents several examples
and offers an analysis that employs a theoretical framework anchored in the field of
dress studies in order to adduce the array of meanings signified by the garment in various
contexts. Each example is seen as a case of what Roland Barthes termed real clothing,
that is, clothing as it is manufactured and worn, and as verbal-clothing, that is, clothing as it is verbalized and infused with meaning through written language. Attention is
given to both positive and negative assessments of the garb. The wearing of the pallium
by Christians communicated claims to moral and pedagogical authority in the context
of the shifting contours of the philosophical field in late antiquity. Christians who
dressed in the mantle enacted a visual engagement with and challenge to contemporary
pagan philosophy. At the same time, the cloak aroused tensions among Christians as
they debated among themselves the value of Greek education and participation in contemporary philosophical debates.
Early Christian portraits of Jesus, the apostles, and other biblical figures most
often depict these subjects wearing the garment customarily worn by Greek
philosophers. From sarcophagi and arcosolia to apses and icons, the garment,
known as the tribon in Greek and the pallium in Latin, dresses Christian sages
and saints. Related to the Greek himation, the robe became increasingly characteristic of the portraiture of philosophers, poets, and orators beginning in
Hellenistic Athens.1 The worn out (tribon) cloak of Socrates became a symbol
1
For examples, see Mary G. Houston, Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume &
Decoration (New York, 2003), 68-70; and Paul Zanker, The Mask of Socrates: The Image of the
Intellectual in Antiquity (Berkeley, 1995), especially Chapter Three.
214
A.P. URBANO
of moral virtue and self-sufficiency and was adopted by the students of the
various Hellenistic philosophies, most notably the Cynics.2 Because of the
prominence of the garment in portraiture and iconography, Christian examples
have been studied largely from an art-historical perspective.3 However, Christian literary sources provide evidence of Christians who wore the philosophers
mantle between the second and fourth centuries AD. These coincide with the
intellectualization of Christianity, as more of the educated embraced the gospel
of Jesus Christ and Christian theology began to engage and challenge the concepts and doctrines of the philosophers. In this contribution, I will present
several of these examples and offer an initial analysis using insights from the
field of dress studies in order to adduce the array of meanings signified by the
garment. My contention is that the mantle became a locus of competition within
the philosophical contexts of late antiquity. It served as a public, visual communication of intellectual expertise and moral authority. By maintaining or assuming
a style of dress associated with philosophers, some Christian teachers enacted
a visual engagement and challenge to contemporary philosophical culture. At the
same time, this style of dress aroused tensions within Christian communities as
Christians debated among themselves the value of Greek literary and philosophical education.
Recent studies in classics and religion have opened up the social and cultural
significance of clothing in the Roman world by integrating scholarship in the
field of dress studies.4 In these analyses, dress is not limited to clothing, but
also includes hairstyles, shaving habits, jewelry, and other accessories. Clothing
itself has been theorized as non-verbal language that produces a communicative
code, with its own vocabulary, grammar, and dialects.5 This language of clothing
functions within a complex of shared cultural values that makes it a comprehensible mode of communication. Roland Barthes outlines the complexity of this
vestimentary code by distinguishing real clothing, that is, clothing as manufactured and worn, from image-clothing and verbal-clothing.6 Image-clothing,
2
See Plato, Symposium 219b and Protagoras 335d. In the first selection, Alcibiades contrasts
Socrates tribon with his own robe, the himation, which he throws over himself and Socrates as
he tries to seduce the sage. He notes that it was winter, so presumably the tribon was of an inferior quality. On the Cynic cloak, see William D. Desmond, Cynics (Berkeley, 2008), 78.
3
Prior to Zankers thorough and important study, Henri Marrou compiled a catalogue of
monuments with examples of the portraiture of the intellectual in Mousikos Aner. tude sur les
scnes de la vie intellectuelle figurant sur les monuments funraires romains (Grenoble, 1938).
4
See, for example, Jonathan Edmondson and Alison Keith (eds), Roman Dress and the Fabrics
of Roman Culture, Studies in Greek and Roman Social History 1 (Buffalo, 2008).
5
In this area, I engage the work of Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An
Economic Study in the Evolution of Institutions (New York, 1899); Roland Barthes, The Fashion
System, translated by Matthew Ward and Richard Howard (New York, 1983); Pierre Bourdieu,
Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste, translated by Richard Nice (London,
2010); and Alison Lurie, The Language of Clothes (New York, 1981).
6
R. Barthes, Fashion System (1983), 3.
215
216
A.P. URBANO
sumptuary laws.13 Thus, dress was a key marker of Romanitas, and has been
called part of the stagecraft of Roman society where political, cultural, and
social distinctions were displayed and negotiated.14 If the toga was always
considered the garment to be worn by the Roman man conducting public business, the pallium was associated with a career in teaching oratory or philosophy.15 The former marked one as a citizen of the gens togata,16 while the latter
evoked Hellenic origins and denoted a vocation of study rather than public
life or labor, what Thorstein Veblen would call an insignia of conspicuous
leisure.17
Dressing improperly could be seen as a breach of the social order and a
subversion of the moral order. As such, dress was often grounds for judging ones
moral character in the Roman world. Julia Heskel demonstrates that inappropriate clothing was believed to mirror inappropriate behavior in a study of
Ciceros Verrine orations.18 She examines how Cicero lambastes Gaius Verres
choice to wear a pallium rather than a toga when meeting with a delegation
from Valentia.19 Cicero translates Verres clothing choice as an indication of
an immoral character: as Verres chose to dress as a Greek instead of a Roman,
he exhibited a defective character evidenced by negligence towards his duties.20
Yet on another occasion, Cicero could defend Rabirius Postumus wearing of
the pallium while in negotiations with Mithridates in the east. While Rabirius
opponents interpreted this choice of dress as a renunciation of Roman citizenship, Cicero defended it as a practical, protective measure.21
The extent to which dressed functioned in the construction of early Christian
ascetic identities has been examined by Kristi Upson-Saia. In an important study
which applies the theories of dress studies to early Christian modes of dress,
Upson-Saia argues that dress functioned as a culturally and socially contested
13
On a number of occasions, through the fourth century AD, Roman emperors legislated the
wearing of the toga for conducting public business. See, for example, Suetonius, Aug. 40; SHA
Hadrian 22.2; and Cod. Theod. XIV 10.1.
14
Jonathan Edmondson, Public Dress and Social Control in Late Republican and Early Imperial Rome, in J. Edmondson and A. Keith (eds), Roman Dress and the Fabrics of Roman Culture
(2008), 21-46.
15
Shelley Stone, The Toga: From National to Ceremonial Costume, in Judith Lynn Sebesta
and Larissa Bonfante (eds), The World of Roman Costume, Wisconsin Studies in Classics (Madison, 1994), 13-45.
16
Virgil, Aeneid 1.282.
17
See Michael Koortbojian, The Double Identity of Roman Portrait Statues: Costumes and
Their Symbolism at Rome, in J. Edmondson and A. Keith (eds), Roman Dress and the Fabrics
of Roman Culture (2008), 71-93; and T. Veblen, Theory of the Leisure Class (1899), 182.
18
Julia Heskel, Cicero as Evidence for Attitudes to Dress in the Late Republic, in J.L. Sebesta
and L. Bonfante, The World of Roman Costume (1994), 133-45.
19
Cicero, Verrine Oration II 5.16.
20
J. Heskel, Cicero (1994), 135.
21
Cicero, Pro Rabirio 9.25-10.29. See also, J. Heskel, Cicero (1994), 136.
217
symbol in the Roman world as various groups employed clothing in the negotiation of power.22 She maintains that ascetic modes of dress, particularly womens
dress, participated in a broader cultural discourse on gender and virtue.23 Building
upon these previous studies, my purpose is to examine how the philosophers
robe participated in debates concerning moral and pedagogical authority in late
antiquity.
While easy for the modern eye to miss, the difference between the toga and
pallium, or tribon, was apparent to the ancient eye, from the cut of the cloth to
the manner of draping. To the Roman, the pallium carried ethnic, social, and
gender associations: it was generally a garment worn by educated, Greek men,
who occupied themselves with teaching, writing, or philosophical contemplation.
Usually worn without a tunic beneath, the pallium can be seen in the bareshouldered portraits of philosophers that began to appear in the Hellenistic
era.24 In his study, The Mask of Socrates: The Image of the Intellectual in Late
Antiquity, Paul Zanker traced the development of representations of orators,
philosophers, and poets from classical Greece through late antiquity. While
emphasizing iconographic continuity from one era to another, he also gives
attention to social, cultural, and religious trends that help inform a reading of
the iconic garment in various periods and locations. He notes that the pallium,
once associated with a life of intellectual leisure, had become a display of
educational credentials in late antiquity, an indispensable prerequisite for the
man of public affairs.25
From the Hellenistic period into late antiquity, the mantle arrayed the philosophers of various schools in their portraits. It can be seen in representations
of Socrates, Stoics, Epicureans, Cynics, and even in a supposed portrait of
the Neopythagorean Apollonius of Tyana found in the Cretan town of Gortyn.26
As Dio Chrysostom noted in his defense of the philosophers appearance, the
same cloak draped the portraits of male divinities, including Zeus, Poseidon,
and Asclepius.27 Literary and iconographic evidence illustrates that the tribon
remained the garb of the self-professed philosopher into the fourth century and
was worn even by Christians. For those Christians who adopted the philosophers look, the pallium served as a locus of competition as these Christians
displayed their educational credentials, dedication to philosophy, and their
ascetic way of life, while positioning themselves as legitimate intellectuals and
22
Kristi Upson-Saia, Early Christian Dress: Gender, Virtue, and Authority, Routledge Studies in Ancient History 3 (New York, 2011), 3.
23
K. Upson-Saia, Early Christian Dress (2011), 33.
24
The pallium was used in the seated honorific portraits of Stoic and Epicurean teachers. See
examples in P. Zanker, Mask of Socrates (1995), 98-135.
25
P. Zanker, Mask of Socrates (1995), 282.
26
Heraklion Museum, Inv. 1.
27
Dio Chrysostom, Discourse 72.5.
218
A.P. URBANO
219
the political, cultural and social implications of changing dress in Roman North
Africa. In it the author responds to public criticism for his decision to put off
the toga in favor of the pallium as his public garb. Tertullian chides his critics,
likely the ruling elite and literati of Carthage,33 for spending their time censuring clothing (habitus denotare, 1.1). It is unlikely that the pallium itself was
the issue, but rather that Tertullian, a native North African and Roman citizen,
had put aside the prescribed clothing of the gens togata for a Greek form of
dress.34 As Michael Koortbojian notes, a Roman donning the pallium in the
public arena was synonymous with everything un-Roman.35 Tertullians change
of attire was intended and perceived as a subversive act that likely offended the
cultural and political sensitivities of a region whose native sons were co-reigning Augusti. The conscious and public adoption of the pallium by Tertullian, a
native Carthaginian, orator, and convert to Christianity, would have been provocative.
Tertullian begins with a discussion of the origins of human clothing couched
within a philosophical discourse of change.36 He suggests that changing clothing
is the solemn task (sollemne munus) of nature itself and part of the natural
order of things:37 the surface of the earth changes, day and night alternate, even
animals, such as snakes and peacocks, regularly change their clothing. Change
can be gradual, or it can be sudden and violent. Change can be disruptive, but
it is ultimately restorative: It is by change that every world that is a corporate
whole of different things and a mixture through vicissitudes exists.38
For Tertullians critics, the foreignness of his Greek style of dress spoke
volumes. It was as if he had suddenly begun speaking a foreign language.39
Tertullian acknowledges the ethnic and regional identifications of the pallium
in an ambiguous way. On the one hand, he affirms the otherness of the garment,
by noting that it is more Greek in its origins,40 but at the same time he compares the mantle to an indigenous North African costume worn before the
arrival of the Romans. Appealing to his audiences sense of ethnic pride, he
presents his change of clothing as a natural return to Punic origins and rebukes
sons (M. Turcan, Tertullien, 19). The Latin of De pallio is taken from Turcans critical edition.
Unless otherwise noted, all English translations are taken from Vincent Hunink (trans.), Tertullian:
De Pallio (Amsterdam, 2005).
33
Tertullian addresses his audience as nobiles and principes (1.1). The latter title was used
by Apuleius in Florida to address senators (16.1). It is possible that overall Tertullian envisages
an audience of mixed status.
34
Jean-Claude Fredouille points out that the wearing of the pallium was current in this period
in North Africa. See Tertullien et la conversion de la culture antique (Paris, 1972), 448-52.
35
M. Koortbojian, Double Identity (2008), 82.
36
Tertullian, Pall. II 1.4 III 4.2.
37
Ibid. II 1.1 (SC 513, 90).
38
Ibid. II 1.4 (trans. V. Hunink, 35).
39
A. Lurie, Language of Clothing (1981), 7.
40
Tertullian, Pall. III 7.2: Graecum magis (SC 513, 138).
220
A.P. URBANO
his toga-clad audience for forgetting their cultural heritage:41 If any circumstances of class or dignity or time makes you wear other garments, you forget
and even criticize the pallium, that used to be yours in all circumstances!42
Tertullians public change of clothing could be read as a criticism of Roman
society and the Roman occupation of North Africa. Philosophers were often
critics of public mores and sometimes revolutionaries; and Tertullian clearly
constructs the toga as a symbol of the Roman colonization of North Africa:
To you, however, after the benefit of injustice, as to people who lost their antiquity but
not their position, after the foul omens of Gracchus and the violent mockery by Lepidus,
the threefold altars of Pompeius and the long delays of Caesar, when Statilius Taurus
had erected your walls and Sentius Saturninus had solemnly inaugurated them, and
since concord was pleasing to you the toga was offered. O how far did it wander!
From the Pelasgians it came to the Lydians and from the Lydians to the Romans, in
order that it would cover the Carthaginians, starting from the shoulders of the higher
people!43
I would suggest that Tertullians motive was less a political rejection of Roman
rule than a cultural and moral critique of the state of Carthaginian society.
He can at once praise the peace and stability that characterized the reign of
Septimius Severus, while equating the Roman toga with a cultural corruption
of North Africa and the imposition of Roman civic and political responsibilities. Following a comic description of the process of donning the toga with the
help of a servant called a vestiplicus, Tertullian posed these questions to his
toga-clad audience: How do you feel in a toga, dressed or oppressed? Is it like
wearing clothes or bearing them?44 Tertullians public act of putting aside his
toga to wear the pallium signified a distancing from the civic responsibilities
of citizenship and an identification with the lower classes and professions who
normally wore the garment.45
Finally, Tertullian reveals the moral implications of his change from toga to
pallium by characterizing it as a withdrawal from public life for the purpose of
serving society in the capacity of intellectual and philosopher. In an extraordinary example of sartorial prosopopoeia, Tertullian speaks as the pallium itself,
declaring: I owe nothing to the forum, it says, nothing to the Campus Martius,
nothing to the curia. I do not watch for a magistrates function, do not occupy
any rostra, do not attend to the governors office I have withdrawn from
41
A. Lurie, Language of Clothing (1981), 93: wearing ethnically identifying costume is a
reminder or a challenge to the outsider; and can also be a rebuke to other minority group members
who are still wambling around town in the gown of the majority.
42
Tertullian, Pall. I 3.1 (trans. V. Hunink, 33).
43
Ibid. I 2.3-4 (trans. V. Hunink, 31-3).
44
Ibid. V 2.1 (trans. V. Hunink, 57).
45
At Pall. VI 2.2, Tertullian lists the professions of those who wore the pallium, including
grammarians, rhetors, sophists, doctors, poets, musicians, and astronomers, noting that these
certainly are below the Roman equites (Pall. VI 2.3, my translation).
221
Tertullian, Pall. V 4.2 (SC 513, 202-4; trans. V. Hunink, 59, with modifications).
Ibid. VI 2.2: All liberality of arts is covered by my four tips (trans. V. Hunink, 63).
48
Ibid. VI 1.2 (SC 513, 218; my translation).
49
Ibid. VI 2.4 (SC 513, 224; trans. V. Hunink, 63).
50
Ibid. VI 2.5 (SC 513, 224; trans. V. Hunink, 63, with modifications): Melior iam te philosophia dignata est ex quo Christianum vestire coepisti.
51
See Eusebius, Hist. eccl. VI 19 for the testimony of Porphyry.
52
For this identification of the philosopher, see F.H. Kettler, Origenes, Ammonios Sakkas
und Porphyrius, in Kerygma und Logos. Festschrift C. Andresen (Gttingen, 1979), 322-8;
Pier Franco Beatrice, Porphyrys Judgment on Origen, in R.J. Daly (ed.), Origeniana V (Leuven,
1992), 351-67; Edward Watts, City and School in Late Antique Athens and Alexandria, Transformation of the Classical Heritage 41 (Berkeley, 2006), 161; and Ilaria Ramelli, Origen, Patristic
Philosophy, and Christian Platonism: Re-Thinking the Christianisation of Hellenism, VC 63 (2009),
217-63.
53
Eusebius, Eccl. Hist. VI 3.2.
47
222
A.P. URBANO
Ibid VI 19.14 (SC 41, 117; trans. NPNF2 1:265, with modifications).
E. Watts, City and School (2006), 161104 suggests that Origens emphasis upon Heraclas
clothing indicates the difference in their status at the school. With the conferral of the tribon a
rite of passage, Origen is implying that the learned presbyter is far more advanced in philosophy
than himself.
56
Origen does not remark here on his own wardrobe choices.
57
Eusebius, MP Gr. 11.2 (SC 55, 156).
55
223
and attire himself n trbwnov sxmati, that is, in a garb specified as the
tribon.58 Likewise, Porphyry, a youth of around twenty years of age, was present when his teacher Pamphilus was arrested, tried, and executed. When he
appealed for the burial of his master, he was himself questioned, tortured, and
finally burned. As he was brought out to the stake, Eusebius writes that he was
clothed only in a philosophical garb which was thrown around him like a
slaves tunic (filosfw sxmati mnw t per atn nabolaw zwmdov trpon mfiesmnon).59 Dressed like a Cynic, the Christian Porphyry
faced death cheerfully and courageously. In Eusebius account, these examples
of verbal-clothing function as symbols of philosophic resistance to the tyranny
of the Roman persecutors. There is a strong Socratic parallel here with Aedesius
and Porphyry serving as a type of Christian Socrates. This is consistent with
other writings of Eusebius where he draws parallels between Socrates and
Christian martyrs based on his reading of Plato.60
Fourth- and fifth-century accounts of Christians who wore the philosophers
mantle reflect the ambivalence that characterized Christian attitudes towards
the Greek philosophical tradition. Some would see the garb as a marker of
erudition and an expression of the ascetic lifestyle. For others, the robe aroused
suspicion and animosity for its association with professional philosophers and
rhetoricians. Conferred by the authorities of rhetorical and philosophical schools,
the garment was an external expression of the embodied dispositions of the
educated elite and visibly vested the man who wore it with pedagogical consecration, or bestowal of legitimacy, much like a doctoral gown.61 In the tense
disputes over doctrine and education in the fourth century between Christian
and Greek intellectuals, the garment could be seen as a distinctive marker of
intellectual and social capital, and as an identification with the schools and
circles of the Greeks. In this respect, the philosophers mantle became part
of a discourse of distinction. For example, in Athanasius Life of Antony, the
58
224
A.P. URBANO
225
also regulated diet and dress. His controversial ascetic discipline, separation
from local clergy, and associations with Arius of Alexandria in the 320s brought
him under the careful watch of Nicene bishops in the region.69
Socrates writes that Eustathius dressed in the philosophers mantle (atv te
filosfou sxma forn) and prescribed an otherwise undescribed strange
raiment (znj stol) for his followers.70 This latter, called the periblaion
in the Acts of the Council of Gangra, was probably not the same tribon worn by
Eustathius. Socrates seems to distinguish Eustathius dress from that of his followers. Instead, Eustathius probably reserved the tribon for himself as a marker
of both pedagogical and moral authority in his role as leader of the community.
Eustathius pretensions to a Christian philosophical authority were recognized by his admirer, the young Basil of Caesarea. Basil addressed Ep. 1 to
Eustathius, calling him the philosopher. The letter was likely written during
his pilgrimage of eastern monastic communities in 357. Basil writes that the
philosophy of Eustathius led him to feel contempt for the philosophy he had
learned at Athens.71 The fact that young, well-educated Christian men like Basil
would be attracted to Eustathius ascetic teaching indicates that he offered a
viable and convincing alternative to the mainstream philosophical schools.
The historical sources offer little information about Eustathius educational
background. Therefore, it is unclear whether he retained the tribon after formal
philosophical study, or adopted it upon his ordination to the priesthood, apart
from any association with a school. There is no indication from extant sources
that Eustathius studied rhetoric or philosophy formally. Sozomen writes that he
did not have a rhetorical education, though we should take his disparaging
testimony with a grain of salt.72 I would suggest that Eustathius adoption of
the tribon marks a liminal stage in the Christian reception of Greek philosophy.
The tribon of Eustathius laid claim to the visually-communicated authority of
the garment, while being distanced from the institutional contexts with which
it was customarily associated.
Opposition to Eustathius sartorial fashion arose within Christian circles. His
father Eulalius regarded the tribon as inappropriate to the priestly office. Other
bishops of the region condemned the rigorous ascetic norms of Eustathius,
including his teachings on dress, diet, and worship, at a council which met
in Gangra.73 Canon 12 of the Acts of the Council condemned the men of the
69
See Basil of Caesarea, Ep. 263.3; and Anna Silvas, The Asketikon of St. Basil the Great
(New York, 2005), 53.
70
Socrates, Hist. eccl. II 43.
71
Basil of Caesarea, Ep. 1.
72
Sozomen, Hist. eccl. III 14.
73
I am grateful to Samuel Rubenson for this reference. Dates for the Council of Gangra range
from 325 to 380. See O. Larry Yarbrough, Canons from the Council of Gangra, in Vincent
L. Winbush (ed.), Ascetic Behavior in Greco-Roman Antiquity: A Sourcebook (Minneapolis, 1990),
448; and Timothy D. Barnes, The Date of the Council of Gangra, JTS n.s. 40 (1989), 121-4.
226
A.P. URBANO
227
Gregory suggests that Maximus is able engage and contest other philosophical
systems by the likeness of his garb (t to sxmatov moitjti), but he
also challenges the studied simplicity of some in our own camp, presumably
those Christians who rejected any compatibility between Christianity and philosophical studies. Therefore, as Gregory defended philosophy and Nicene
82
83
84
85
86
Ibid.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Ibid.
Ibid.
228
A.P. URBANO
orthodoxy on the eve of the council of Constantinople, Maximus visually represented their marriage.87
The tone of Gregorys poem De vita sua is altogether different. In this autobiographical work, Gregory recounts the attempt of Maximus supporters to
supplant him by consecrating the Cynic as bishop of Constantinople. Here praise
of Maximus appearance has turned into mocking, with his hair and penchant
for cosmetics the target of his jabs. Whereas Gregory had spoken of the
novelty of Maximus look as a useful tool of evangelization, in De vita sua,
he disrobes Maximus as an Egyptian freak (Agption fntasma) deceitful, gender ambiguous, and vain.88 Maximus appearance is no longer a sign of
philosophical inspiration, but rather a devious corruption of nature:
Why shouldnt wise men have these feminine cosmetics on their faces? Theres little
point in restricting such ugly and disgusting adornments to wise women only its a
mute indication of character beneath. As if men cant have their Maximuses too! The
fact indeed was pointed up by his hair style. It had previously managed to escape notice,
we had to wait for contemporary philosophers to provide such marvels. To be ambiguous, that is, in nature and configuration, one must have a share of either sex, a woman
in hair style, and a man by reason of the staff.89
87
Gregory discusses Maximus defense of Nicene orthodoxy at Or. 25.8-15, including his
arrest, torture, and exile.
88
Gregory of Nazianzus, De vita sua 751 (PG 37, 1081).
89
Ibid. 760-69 (trans. Denis Molaise Meehan, Three Poems, Fathers of the Church 75 [Washington, D.C., 1987], 98-9).
90
Ibid. 905-24.
91
Ibid. 926 (trans. D. Meehan, 103).
229
Damasus attacks long hair as improper for a man.92 Certainly aware of the
fashion among eastern philosophers, Damasus immediately condemns the philosophers robe, urging his readers to heed the Apostles warnings against philosophy in Col. 2:8. He contends that the garb of philosophers (habitum
philosophorum) was not suited (non convenire) for any Christian to wear,
let alone a bishop.93 Damasus notes two reasons for his opposition. First, in
contrast to Gregory who saw in Maximus robe the visual expression of the
compatibility between philosophy and faith, for Damasus, it was an attack upon
faith. The philosophers habitus represented an attempt to dress faith in philosophy, which he regarded as hostile to faith (inimica fidei).94 Second, aware
of the similarity between the philosophers mantle and the Greek himation,
which, as noted above, dressed the statues of the gods, Damasus saw the garb
as an infectious and idolatrous threat to Christianity: the man who dressed in
the habitus idoli was not even to be called a Christian.95
The examples presented here of Christians who dressed in the manner of
philosophers demonstrate the complexities of vestimentary codes. The language
of clothing is communicated visually and verbally, in the contexts in which
clothing is worn and seen, and in the writings of those who infuse clothing with
meaning. The wearing of the pallium by Christians communicated claims to
moral and pedagogical authority in the context of engagement with pagan intellectuals. It also fanned the flames of debate within Christian communities
regarding the place of philosophy in Christian culture. The significance of the
pallium extended even further, as it could also speak to questions of ethnic and
gender identification, and civic participation. While for some the philosophers
pallium signified the entrance of the Christian voice into the philosophical currents of late antiquity, it seems that by the end of the fourth century it became
more of a liability than an asset. Nevertheless, the long hair and mantle of the
philosopher would continue to dress the apostles and saints, and the incarnate
Lord himself, who adorned the apses and naves of Christian sanctuaries.
92
93
94
95
STUDIA PATRISTICA
PAPERS PRESENTED AT THE SIXTEENTH INTERNATIONAL
CONFERENCE ON PATRISTIC STUDIES
HELD IN OXFORD 2011
Edited by
MARKUS VINZENT
Volume 1
STUDIA PATRISTICA LIII
FORMER DIRECTORS
Gillian Clark, Bristol, UK
60 Years (1951-2011) of the International Conference on Patristic
Studies at Oxford: Key Figures An Introductory Note....................3
Elizabeth Livingstone, Oxford, UK
F.L. Cross..............................................................................................5
Frances Young, Birmingham, UK
Maurice Frank Wiles...........................................................................9
Catherine Rowett, University of East Anglia, UK
Christopher Stead (1913-2008): His Work on Patristics.....................17
Archbishop Rowan Williams, London, UK
Henry Chadwick...................................................................................31
Mark Edwards, Christ Church, Oxford, UK, and Markus Vinzent,
Kings College, London, UK
J.N.D. Kelly..........................................................................................43
ric Rebillard, Ithaca, NY, USA
William Hugh Clifford Frend (1916-2005): The Legacy of The
Donatist Church...................................................................................55
William E. Klingshirn, Washington, D.C., USA
Theology and History in the Thought of Robert Austin Markus.......73
Volume 2
STUDIA PATRISTICA LIV
BIBLICAL QUOTATIONS IN PATRISTIC TEXTS
(ed. Laurence Mellerin and Hugh A.G. Houghton)
Table of Contents
Volume 3
STUDIA PATRISTICA LV
EARLY MONASTICISM AND CLASSICAL PAIDEIA
(ed. Samuel Rubenson)
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Volume 12
STUDIA PATRISTICA LXIV
ASCETICA
Kate Wilkinson, Baltimore, USA
Gender Roles and Mental Reproduction among Virgins....................3
David Woods, Cork, Ireland
Rome, Gregoria, and Madaba: A Warning against Sexual Temptation.9
Alexis C. Torrance, Princeton, USA
The Angel and the Spirit of Repentance: Hermas and the Early
Monastic Concept of Metanoia............................................................15
Lois Farag, St Paul, MN, USA
Heroines not Penitents: Saints of Sex Slavery in the Apophthegmata
Patrum in Roman Law Context...........................................................21
Nienke Vos, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Seeing Hesychia: Appeals to the Imagination in the Apophthegmata
Patrum..................................................................................................33
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Volume 16
STUDIA PATRISTICA LXVIII
FROM THE FIFTH CENTURY ONWARDS (GREEK WRITERS)
Anna Lankina, Gainesville, Florida, USA
Reclaiming the Memory of the Christian Past: Philostorgius Mis
sionary Heroes......................................................................................3
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Volume 17
STUDIA PATRISTICA LXIX
LATIN WRITERS
Dennis Paul Quinn, Pomona, California, USA
In the Names of God and His Christ: Evil Daemons, Exorcism, and
Conversion in Firmicus Maternus........................................................3
Stanley P. Rosenberg, Oxford, UK
Nature and the Natural World in Ambroses Hexaemeron.................15
Brian Dunkle, S.J., South Bend, USA
Mystagogy and Creed in Ambroses Iam Surgit Hora Tertia.............25
Finbarr G. Clancy, S.J., Dublin, Ireland
The Eucharist in St Ambroses Commentaries on the Psalms............35
Jan den Boeft, Vrije Universiteit, Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Qui cantat, vacuus est: Ambrose on singing......................................45
Crystal Lubinsky, University of Edinburgh, UK
Re-reading Masculinity in Christian Greco-Roman Culture through
Ambrose and the Female Transvestite Monk, Matrona of Perge........51
Maria E. Doerfler, Durham, USA
Keeping it in the Family: The law and the Law in Ambrose of Milans
Letters...................................................................................................67
Camille Gerzaguet, Lyon, France
Le De fuga saeculi dAmbroise de Milan et sa datation. Notes de
philologie et dhistoire..........................................................................75
Vincenzo Messana, Palermo, Italia
Fra Sicilia e Burdigala nel IV secolo: gli intellettuali Citario e Vit
torio (Ausonius, Prof. 13 e 22).............................................................85
Edmon L. Gallagher, Florence, Alabama, USA
Jeromes Prologus Galeatus and the OT Canon of North Africa.......99
Christine McCann, Northfield, VT, USA
Incentives to Virtue: Jeromes Use of Biblical Models.......................107
Christa Gray, Oxford, UK
The Monk and the Ridiculous: Comedy in Jeromes Vita Malchi......115
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Volume 18
STUDIA PATRISTICA LXX
ST AUGUSTINE AND HIS OPPONENTS
Kazuhiko Demura, Okayama, Japan
The Concept of Heart in Augustine of Hippo: Its Emergence and
Development.........................................................................................3
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