ighty

ne
VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE
COLOR + ART
fashion + art + culture = 180
spring 2009

VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE

fashion + art + culture = 180
spring 2009
 ighty

ne
GET IN TOUCH
CONTENTS
FASHION FEATURES
08 Fashion Dictionary 40 Panorama
How to speak fashion-ese Sundresses shot in a colored landscape

10 Boutiques 52 David Downton

one eighty shops around the globe
56 Style Tights
12 Style A-Z
Everything you need to know this summer and beyond 60 Where the Wild Things Were Not

70 Designer Lookbook: Louisa Parris

ANTI-FASHION
74 Julian & Helene
16 Garbagedress Blog Layered knits and a cuddle partner for wintry summers
Fashion blogger Zana Bayne craves your attention
90 Dai Fujiwara: Issey Miyake’s Creative Director
17 Artists on Fashion
94 Eye Photo
18

Sticky & Sweet
A design challenge involving, you guessed it, condoms
Winning submissions from our camera phone contest FIX
20 International Fashion Director: Gene Krell
104 Night Lights STAMP
Millinery madness from Academy students
Tells us on why he hates bling HERE
112 Neutral Territory
A sneak peek of next season’s graduate collections
DESIGN
122 High Style :an afternoon with best-dressed Mrs. Hale
24 Gypsies, Jetsetters and Ruffians
Subjects of new must-read titles from Assouline 126 Disco Knits: Homage to Grace Jones

ighty
26 Take a Trip 128 Study Abroad: Fashion School in Doha, Qatar
Stacie Willoughby’s psychedelic posters
130 Erogenous Zones
28 one eighty Hearts Artists Clavicles: are they hot or not?
Mark Elliot, Jin Young Yu and Ciriaco Sayoc

ne
134 Urban Outfitted
30 Pillow Talk with Guest Editor Yaling Hou Brooklyn through the eyes of its hipster denizens
Her reviews of Academy-designed textiles
140 Accessories from Three Rising Stars
CULTURE 148 Ignore This Box: do as we say
Academy of Art University
32 Hey Mr. DJ
Profiles of three sound artists from fashion week School of Fashion 
CONCLUSION
34 Deerhunter 7th Floor
156 We Were There
one eighty hangs with the band 180 New Montgomery 
At the event of the year: Barack Obama’s inauguration
36 News from Wondercon San Francisco California
157 Prototype
Where fanboys fly their geek flags high
164 94105
Horoscope
38 one eighty Role Model
Spoken Word Artist Ruby Veridiano-Ching 166 Last Word

Cover photographed by Joe Budd. Clothes by Scott McFarland.

 ighty ighty

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CONTRIBUTORS
VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE
COLOR
fashion + art + culture = 180
spring 2009

In honor of our first themed issue on color, tell us the hue of your favorite food.

“Green–my favorite food is lettuce.”
who: Vivian G. Kelly, online instructor, Fashion
Journalism
day job: freelance writer and founder/editor of The
Fashion Examiner blog
one eighty story: multiple
Vivian mentored, oversaw and edited articles
throughout this issue with her online students.
“Green–I love asparagus.” EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Cheryl Locke
who: Yaling Hou, MFA Textile Design, ‘07
day job: creator and founder of design company CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jonathan Kyle Farmer
Flowie
one eighty story: Pillow Talk EDITOR-AT-LARGE Dino-Ray Ramos
As a textile design alumna, Yaling was the perfect
guest editor to curate projects our applied textile
DESIGN DIRECTOR Fransisca Tan, BFA Graphic Design
classes.

“Vanilla ice cream.”
who: Ali Khan, online MFA, Fashion Design, ‘08
day job: designer and instructor at Qatar
University
one eighty story: Postcards from Doha
Ali introduced us to his fashion design class and
took us around to see Doha’s sights and sounds.
“Red for hot sauce.”
who: Chris Scott, instructor, Fashion
Merchandising
day job: creator of Makeup Gourmet
one eighty story: Neutral Territory
One eighty plucked this beauty veteran from
Chanel’s backstage to doll up FORD model
Rebecca.
ARTICLE EDITORS
Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism
Sata Schramm, MFA Fashion Journalism
FEATURES EDITOR
Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising
MUSIC EDITOR
Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism

“Red-orange from rich spicy sauces.”
who: Ivan Mendoza
day job: freelance hair and makeup artist
one eighty story: Julian & Helene
In our ode to wintry San Francisco summers,
Ivan’s genius touch kept our models looking hot.
“Smoked salmon pink.”
who: Louisa Parris, instructor, Fashion Design
day job: designer
one eighty story: Designer Lookbook
Louisa did double duty as designer and stylist in
this shoot.
MUSIC REPORTER
Tia Newton, MFA Fashion Journalism
FASHION CORRESPONDENTS
Shaneia Caldwell, MFA Fashion Journalism
Kelly Wetherille, MFA Fashion Journalism

FASHION ASSOCIATES
Sequoia Hopkins, BFA Fashion Journalism
“How would you describe the color of Renata Lindroos, BFA Fashion Merchandising
croissants? That and black coffee.”
who: Flore Morton, instructor, Fashion Design and GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Styling Cyrin Jocson, BFA New Media
day job: freelance stylist
one eighty stories: High Style and Disco Knits
MARKETING ASSOCIATE
A matchmaker of sorts, Flore introduced
Savo’na Jenkins, MFA Fashion Merchandising
photography student Beata Pevny and fashion
student Tafen Kuo last semester. They worked
their collaborative magic in portraits of San
Francisco Denise Hale. BE OUR FRIEND:

one eighty MAGAZINE

Academy of Art University
School of Fashion
7th Floor
180 New Montgomery
San Francisco, CA 94105
oneeighty@academyart.edu
www.iqons.com/one+eighty

4
 INTRODUCTION
A Letter from the President
From day one at the Academy of Art University,
students obtain their education by working alongside
industry professionals. This teaching philosophy is at
the core of the School of Fashion’s magazine: one
eighty. It takes a dedicated team to put together a
magazine and I am proud that our curriculum has
produced a qualified student staff that is up for the
task. Each page of this publication is an example
of a successful collaboration across departments:
fashion, graphic design, illustration and photography.
In our spring/summer issue, one eighty explores
color and the ways that it inspires. I’d like to
highlight a few of the stories you’ll find from our
talented stylists, designers and photographers:
“Neutral Territory” is set among the architecture
models on campus. We show the toiles that will
be made into finished garments for our fashion
show this September at Mercedes-Benz New
York Fashion Week.
“In Colored Landscapes” is a panoramic exhibit of
sundresses from online graduate, Elena Akoulova.
Taken with cross-processed film, the shoot reminds
us of the beauty of technologies past and present.
Sincerely,
Dr. Elisa Stephens, President
6
“Where the Wild Things Were Not” is an illustrated
fashion shoot based on Maurice Sendak’s children’s
book and Spike Jonze’s highly anticipated film,
which cinches for us the close connection fashion
shares with fantasy and popular culture.
I hope that the creativity in these pages will
have you declare optimism as the new black. I’m
excited about our future. One innovation that the
Academy of Art University has embraced is our mimosa
online education. It has given students around
the world a chance to pursue their dreams with COLOR
our accomplished faculty. For one eighty, it has
given the magazine a global network of reporters.
Our fashion and culture coverage spans from San
Francisco to Brooklyn and as far away as Tokyo,
Paris and Doha.
And last but not least, we’d like to thank our
accomplished alumni, faculty mentors and
contributors for generously lending their time
and resources to one eighty.
 FASHION
DICTIONARY

Entry: MODEL CARD

[mod-l khard]
-noun

Def.: A model card is an oversized glossy business

card relating to models and their signed
agencies and usually printed on 5x8 card stock.
Typically features one or more photographs of
the model’s work in a variety of expressions
from manic to melancholy.

Found in offices and studios where castings Left: Karlie Kloss, Karmen Pedaru and Myf Shepherd at Next Models, New York
for all kinds of fashion production occur including
but not limited to shoots and runways. Often
clutched in the hands of enraged or effusive
creative directors and /or tacked on to foam
boards by groveling assistants.

Photos by Simon Ungless, Director of Fashion

8
 180 BOUTIQUES TOKYO’S WUT BERLIN
SAN FRANCISCO’S SHOTWELL Because not everyone is a Berliner. When
A hipster haberdashery hidden in Union Square you’re not local, savvy Tokyoites shop here.

Citing London’s Dover Street Market and New
York’s Opening Ceremony as inspirations,
co-owners Holly Kricher and Michael Weaver,
have opened an unpretentious exploritorium of
contemporary and vintage fashion.
The shop carries classic but edgy streetwear,
emerging designers (like Momoca and Ali Golden),
rebuilt vintage and affordable avant-garde brands
(such as Surface to Air and Cheap Monday). Vintage
suitcases,found objects and sculptures such as Amy
Lee’s tri-tiered wedding cakes made of cardboard
also heighten the experience. —Renne Torres
36 Geary St., San Francisco
OAKLAND’S PRETTY PENNY
Picture this: a ‘70s Pierre Balmain dress for (drum roll please)
less than $30. Unheard of, right? Welcome to Pretty Penny.
Sarah Dunbar has been a vintage junkie
from an early age and has the credentials to prove
it. She has well-known thrift establishments like
Brooklyn’s Beacon’s Closet and Berkeley’s Mars
Mercantile on her résumé. Her obsession led her to
test her own business venture. Once a month, she
turned her home into a store where friends could
sift through her latest finds while sipping a cocktail.
Pretty Penny was born when the event became too
much for her one-bedroom apartment to handle.
Dunbar has made a point of keeping the store
friendly. “It’s for people to have a place that they
can come to and feel comfortable…like picking
through a friend’s closet.” To top it off, she has
converted the location’s upper level into an art
Wut berlin is a boutique with an eclectic selection
of menswear, women’s fashions and accessories.
Pieces range from the elegant to the quirky, butall
come from young, up-and-coming designers
based in Berlin.
The space itself, tucked down a side street in the
high-end Omotesando district, is very minimal
with exposed concrete floors and white tiled walls
accentuated by tomato red hanger racks. This
graphic simplicity serves as the perfect backdrop
for the ever-changing merchandise as well as
the installations by German artists that grace the
front window.
—Kelly Wetherille, online MFA Fashion Journalism
5-1-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku Tokyo
gallery and occasionally hosts community fashion
shows (the last featured accessories from Academy
of Art University alumna Abi McCannon).
And how would one get in on such an event?
Apparently all you have to do is ask. “Some of
the stuff we carry is made by people [who] I know
personally, but I’ve also had people come in and ask
me about selling their stuff. If you bring in a sample
and I feel like it fits with the Pretty Penny [aesthetic],
then great!”—Kelly Dalbeck, BFA Fashion Journalism
5488 College Ave., Oakland
www.prettypennyclothing.com
NEW YORK’S DÉBUT
Young designers are unveiled to fashion
society at this chic Nolita boutique
It is every fashion student’s dream to have her
senior collection get snapped up by Barneys or
praised in the pages of Vogue. In reality, it is as
unlikely as Anna Wintour posing for a PETA ad.
Now, young designers have a new ally in Lisa Weiss.
She fell in love with the creativity of independent
designers while attending New York’s FIT. Inspired
by her gifted yet unsung peers, she opened Début
last summer.
Each season Weiss handpicks emerging labels from
around the world. Unlike other indie retailers, Début
offers items that lean toward the avant-garde.
Adding to the experience is the store’s modernist
layout. The space is infused with a gallery-like
atmosphere that showcases each collection like
a piece of art. Past seasons saw works by two
Academy of Art University alumni, womenswear
designer BoKyung Cha (MFA ‘07) and jewelry
designer Quoc Lieu (BFA ‘00).
This summer, Début features another diverse roster
of rising talent: Dutch designer Ursula Pelt’s flirty
line of separates and industrial necklaces from New
York’s Gemma Redux. Far from the Gap, Début
proves to be the antidote to the monotony of mass
culture.—Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising
298 Mulberry Street
New York, NY
www.debutnewyork.com

10
 STYLE A-Z
A primer for everything cool this summer.
i
is for iPhone. And yes, we know
you have one. But, please stop
j
is for Janelle Monae. She could
possibly be the future of hip-hop–
and all music for that matter.

l
showing it to us. By the way, check

h
Illustrations by Jannika Lilja, BFA Fashion Design
out this application called Old
Photo.

a
is for Lady Gaga. She’s the “it”
is for San Francisco's Harputs
dance diva of the moment. Did

b m
Market and other stores that verge
is for As Seen on TV merchandise. we mention she wore an acrylic
on art gallery and boutique.
The Snuggie has taken the world shoulder piece by Mike Feeney in
by storm AND if you order now you her Poker Face music video?
can get an Itty Bitty Book Light!
Now that’s a deal!
is for broad shoulders. We is for Minx nails. A press-on
are seeing lots of them on the nail alternative. If Beyonce
runway. Let’s just not let it wears them, then they must
get out of hand. be COOL.

o
c
dis for Diouf, as in Kinee Diouf–the
up and coming Senegalese runway
model that has been turning a lot of
heads. kis for Kilts. Men in skirts
is for olive oil ice cream. Hey–don’t
knock it till you tried it.
p
is for print journalism. It’s not
were everywhere on fall ‘09 dead yet! Come to our rescue
is for crystals on collars
runways: Yohji Yamamoto, by reading one eighty.
at Vera Wang and baubles
on bodysuits at
Alexander McQueen. f
is for “fabulous” and “fierce.”
Rick Owens and Alexander
McQueen. n
is for Nyota Uhura. The vampy
We’ll try to keep these words to a Star Trek lieutenant is played
minimum in this month’s issue. by Zoe Saldana in J.J. Abrams’s

e redux of the sci-fi classic, she is

q
g
the sexiest person on the Starship
is for economic crisis. Now Enterprise.
everyone knows how it’s like to be
a starving student/struggling artist. is for quarter-life crisis. Chances
is for gauntlets —a styling craze are, you are going through it right
that is spreading like wildfire. now. If not, your time will come.

12

s
is for Skins, the British teen drama.
And P.S.both girls and guys are
t
is for The Totoro no Furusato
National Fund. Founded by
filmmaker Hayao Miyazake,
they work with artists to

r allowed to crush on the character preserve Tokyo’s Sayama urban

of Maxxie Oliver. He’s so dreamy. forest through art sales (www.
is for Rorschach inkblot tests. totoroforestproject.org).
Not only are they used to
psychologically evaluate, but it’s

u
also the name of the coolest short-
tempered anti-hero on Watchmen.
K

y
is for yellow gold. It’s back and
COLOR

badder than ever. Mr. T should be

happy.

v
is for vertical eco-gardens. A wall
on a building that is completely
covered in vegetation–also known
Z
is for zero emission. Green
your ride with a bike. Or for
the price of this Chanel bike,
as a green wall. It’s the new Chia you might get yourself a
pet. Smart car.

x
is for aleXsandro Palombo, the
illustrator of Vanitas, Inshalla, a
provocative surrealistic look at the
fashion world.
w
is for Where the Wild Things Are—
one of the best children’s
books (and soon-to-be movie
by Spike Jonze) ever made.

14

GARBAGE
DRESS
BLOGGER ZANA BAYNE IS THE
MOST POPULAR GIRL ONLINE
BUT SHE’S STILL CRAVING
ATTENTION
YOU NAME IT and Zana Bayne’s on it: Instant
Messenger, LiveJournal, MySpace and Facebook.
She has an addictive relationship with the net, to
say the least, and she’s documented it in her art.
She’s made a short film Video with my Laptop
(R.I.P.) showing her canoodling with said device:
smelling it, feeling it, knowing its every corner.
Bayne’s work centers around isolation of various
kinds on sites like MySpace and Facebook.
While her blog (Garbagedress.blogspot.com)
gets more and more popular, it’s hard not to
characterize it as ironic and self-imposed.
16
Her blog has taken off and been given a shout
out from Chictopia. There she documents her life
as a girl-around-town and employee at Harputs
Market, the best place in San Francisco to
buy Yohji Yamamoto coats and Maison Martin
Margiela shoes.
Bayne’s off to Berlin this spring but while we say
auf Wiedersehen, it won’t be the last we’ll hear of
her adventures.—Leah Mendelson, BFA Fashion
Design
IN
CITIZEN:Citizen’s
showroom and tote
AS A CITIZEN OF THE
MODERN WORLD WE GO
OUT
THROUGH MANY OBJECTS
IN OUR ENTIRE LIFE. THINGS
ARE EASY TO GET AND
THROW AWAY IN THIS
FAST PACED WORLD OF
CONSUMER.
PHILIP WOOD is the founder of CITIZEN:Citizen
a San Francisco-based design studio. To
join his collective of cool kids that include
design duo FredriksonStallard and self-titled
“designtrepreneur” Joe Gebbia, Wood needs to
click with you.
“When you find the artist you feel the connection,
and suddenly something makes sense,” explains
Wood. “Art has the ability to make you see the
world in a new way.”
Perhaps the most infamous in his collective
is artist Tobias Wong. His 18kt gold-dipped
McDonald’s coffee stirrer, which he cast as a
cokespoon, earned him a cease-and-desist
lawsuit. Another noteworthy art object is Bradley
Price and Joel Yatscoff’s American Comfort Quilt, a
limited-series blanket with 58 quintessential brands
that make up the fabric of American identity.
CITIZEN:Citizen’s collection ranges in price from
$27 to $9,600 and are sold at art galleries, pop
up stores and boutiques worldwide.
AND
“CITIZEN:Citizen is not trying to say this is good
and this is crap,” says Wood. “We want you to
question the value.” One such phenomenon in our
society that confuses value is the commercial brand,
which Wood and his madcap collective criticize.
For instance, his wedding band is designed by
Tobias Wong to look generic and non-conventional.
The diamond is set in the inner part of the band
hidden from public sight. For Wood, the real beauty
is the simplicity and function. “When you see
a fifty thousand dollar diamond on someone’s
finger, it’s almost an insecurity,” says Wood.
For Wood, the objects that prove the most meaningful
are humble. He points to a wooden block and says,
“This is the only thing I’ll jump into a burning home
to save.” It belonged to his mother, who passed
when he was 37. It’s the only thing he took from
his mother’s home when she died. “This thing has
no value to anyone else, but me,” says Wood.
— Enkhjargal Badamkhand, BFA Fashion Merchandising
ANTI-FASHION
DESIGNERS
A RADICAL WARDROBE AT
THE KATONAH MUSEUM
THIS SUMMER, Katonah Museum of Art
presents an exhibit titled Re-Addressing
Identities: Clothing as Sculpture and of the
40 works in the bunch, not one is made by a
fashion designer. Fashion becomes a metaphor
to discuss the state of art in our culture.
San Francisco artist Ray Beldner gives his
own fashion statement in the “Gelt Suit” which
is made of dollar bills. The cost of art and
fashion is also the theme for Sonya Clark’s
“Penny Loafers.”
Artist Kate Kretz’s “Defense Mechanism Coat”
may look like your typical wool coat, but inside
it holds 150 pounds of roofing nails pushed
through the surface to deflect close encounters.
The velvet pink lining is embroidered to illustrate
the major arteries of the body. It’s body armor to
protect our vital organs in this scary, scary world.
For more info, visit www.katonahmuseum.org.
—Shaneia Caldwell, MFA Fashion Journalism
 CC

Photos by Bob Toy
ondom
outure Fashion that Thinks Outside the Wrapper
By: Turquoise Booker , BFA Fashion Journalism

, BFA Fashion Journalism Cropped jacket with Kimono sleeve 

Cropped jacket with kimono sleeves
by Alice Spies & Rachell Rondell 
by Alice Spies & Rachel Rondell

 
A team of Academy students had the opportunity to participate in a design
challenge presented by Project Inform, a San Francisco non-profit empowering
people living with HIV and AIDS. Their task: make a runway ready piece
completely out of condoms.
 
Working with prophylactics led to a few awkward situations. "I had to wash
tons of condoms in the girl’s bathroom and deal with the weird looks people
were giving me,” recalls Alice Spies (Fashion Design ‘10), who created a
kimono-sleeved bolero.

The process from sketch to stitch generally stayed on track for Lisa Relth
(Fashion Design ‘11). Describing her aesthetic as classic with a twist, she
created a mesh gown by stitching the condoms together into one giant sheet
of latex.
  Organza & latex dress by Eric Holbriech BFA Fashion Design 
Despite the ick-factor, the challenge of working with unconventional Styled by Ashley Johnston BFA Fashion Journalism
Johnson
materials prepared the young designers for what’s to come. Photo by Jieun Lee
Fringed funnelneck by Alice Spies BFA Fashion Design Latex dress with neck piece by Lisa Relth BFA Fashion Design
Latex dress with neck piece by Lisa Relth BFA Fshion Design
  Hair: Daniel Parsitt & Tess Lichtwardt 
Danielle Parfitt & Tess Lichtwardt
& Rachell Rondell BFA Fashion Design     Makeup: Stephanie Felo & Jezabel Medina
18
  Model: Caitlyn Randrup
 NICE GUY
GENE KRELL
HE’S A MAN OF CONTRASTS: A KID FROM BROOKLYN
BEFORE IT WAS HIP, GENE KRELL WENT FROM A FORMER
AMATEUR BOXER FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRACKS
TO INTERNATIONAL FASHION DIRECTOR AT VOGUE JAPAN.
GOES CONDÉ
Gene Krell’s ascent to the heights of fashion be-
gan when he dropped out of college in the mid-
‘60s and moved to London, the birthplace of the
Youthquake. “I’ve always had a tremendous dis-
dain for authority,” says Krell. “I’m sure there’s
a lot you can learn from school, obviously, but
NASTY
those weren’t the measures I was interested in.”
He got a job at the legendary boutique Granny
Takes a Trip, which he eventually ended up own-
ing. During this time he not only catered to the
likes of The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Jimi
Hendrix and Marc Bolan, but he also met Vivi-
enne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, who were
selling old records at a shop down the street.
This led to his becoming Westwood’s right-hand
man, where he saw her rise as the queen of punk.
Portrait by Randy Brooke
Krell’s stories from this period of his life range
from the entertaining to the downright outra-
geous. “I remember when [McLaren’s boutique]
was the SEX shop, and a woman was trying on a
pair of boots and she had an orgasm and fainted.”
Krell’s experience working with Westwood as well
as the connections he made during this period,
shaped his future career. At the height of the punk
era in the ‘70s, Krell was brought over to Asia by a
Tokyo magazine to offer insight into British fashion
and pop culture. After leaving London and working
a brief stint with Details magazine in New York, he
was tapped by Condé Nast to oversee the launch
of Vogue in Korea and subsequently, in Japan. Krell,
now 62, lives in Tokyo and currently works for a
total of nine magazines, including Vogue Nippon,
GQ Japan, and Vogue Hommes Japan as well as
the Korean editions of Vogue, W, GQ and Allure
20
After over four decades of firsthand experience in
the fashion industry, Krell maintains that fashion
shows remain the most anti-climatic. “You know,
you work six months on a show and then it’s over in
fifteen minutes. It’s just an extraordinary feeling of
loss. You cry for a minute, particularly with Vivienne
because the clothes were always just so provoca-
tive and just awe-inspiring. But then as soon as the
show is over you start the process again.”
Krell has a lot of opinions about the current state
of fashion. He speaks with incredible admiration
of fashion greats such as Cristobal Balenciaga
and Christian Dior, and has an equal amount of
disdain for those who pass themselves off as
designers. “It demeans the industry's integrity
when J.Lo calls herself a designer. [Celebrities]
don’t understand the very nature of fashion as
a creative force. I think it deludes people into
thinking that anyone can do it. Anyone can do
it, but that doesn’t mean they can do it well. I
believe you have to earn the right to be there.”
When asked about the worst fashion trend of his
lifetime, Krell says bling “because bling has no
conscience whatsoever—it is a kind of anarchy
without morality.”
He feels similarly about the rise in prices of de-
signer clothing. “The clothes [should] warrant or
merit the price. Like a jacket that’s handmade, or
shoes that are bench made, you understand [why
they’re expensive]. I mean, [John] Lobb charges
those prices because of the quality involved, not
the label. The label has established its notoriety
and its reputation not because it’s trend-orient-
ed, but because it’s quality-oriented.”
Possibly better than anyone else in fashion, Krell
knows what it’s like to find yourself surrounded
by a world of beauty and extravagance. So what
advice does he have for young aspiring designers
and editors hoping to get a break? Two things: first,
“You can’t consider yourself a victim,” he says,
referring to his upbringing surrounded by poverty
and violence. “Don’t use [your situation] as an ex-
cuse.” Krell’s second pearl of wisdom has to do
with perspective. “When the majority of the world
lives below the poverty line and then you see a
trend-oriented jacket selling for three thousand dol-
lars, it’s food for thought.” To reconcile the glitz and
glamour of the fashion industry with the terrible liv-
ing conditions of much of the rest of the world, Krell
recommends giving to charity wherever possible.
“A ten dollar mosquito net can save a child from
malaria and potential premature death and twen-
ty-five cents can rehydrate a child,” he says. It’s
pretty good advice from someone who has lived
on both sides of the tracks. — Kelly Wetherille, online
MFA Fashion Journalism
“When the majority of the
world lives below the pov-
erty line and then you see a
trend-oriented jacket selling
for three thousand dollars,
it’s food for thought.”
—Gene Krell
palace blue
COLOR

22
 PERFECT
BOUND
This spring Assouline introduces a new Ruffian and
gets into the mashup craze with Gypset.
by Philip Washington, BFA Fashion Merchandising
HUSBAND AND WIFE TEAM Prosper and
Martine Assouline have established a niche
luxury brand in the world of publishing. With so
many successful titles, Martine looks at creating a
book like following a delicious recipe.
“You must choose all the best ingredients and cook
them together to [get] the best results,” she says.
“A good plate must please you, surprise you and
remain in your memory. It doesn’t have to be too
stylized–it’s more a question of good proportions.”
According to her, those proportions are creativity,
savoir faire and selection of other good
“elements,” which are all the tasty ingredients in
Ruffian: Inside Out.
24
Author Nicole Phelps highlights the work of fashion
design duo Brian Wolk and Clause Morais taking us
through the pair’s creative journey from inspiration
to collection.
The images in this book do most of the talking. We
see the organization of the process from sketchbook
to muslin and eventually to the runway.
Another spring title by Assouline is Gypset Style,
which explores the fusing of two countercultures:
the gypsy and the jetset. Not only does it show
groovy, bright young things, but writer Julia Chaplin
also explores the social history of the times, and its
creation of a new personal style.
“The codes of beauty and fashion had changed,”
explains Martine of the book’s premise. “The
new snobism [was] to privilege places away from
symbols of business and [work] stress. It was a way
to show one’s own identity and to [be different].”
Indeed the fashion tome is both style and substance
that will certainly add cool sophistication to any
fashion student’s bookshelf.
Clockwise from top left: Ruffian's inspiration board;
Veruschka in a silk headdress;Twiggy by Bert Stern;
Chico and the Gipsy Kings by Mr.Henk; A gypsy dance by
Lucien Clergue; Carolyn Roumeguere bedroom in Kenya;
Runway images from Ruffian's fall 2008 (Re)form collec-
tion; Assouline boutique in Paris. All photos courtesy of
Assouline.
 WOWIE ZOWIE
One eighty says ‘folk yeah!’
to Stacie Willoughby’s
psychedelic poster art.
By Caitie Kealy, BFA Fashion Journalism
26
Poster art serves as a utilitarian form of
communication. However, the mind-melting use
of color and lettering seen in Stacie Willoughby’s
posters are works of art in and of themselves.
Her posters draw quick comparisons to legendary
artists of the ‘60s: Alton Kelley and Wes Wilson.
When she first started, her posters were black
and white. All she could afford were photocopies.
Nowadays, funds for color printing come from
commissions from bands and Bay Area concert
promoters Folk Yeah.
But it’s more the community that gathers around
the posters that she’s most proud of. “Posters [are]
signals for the underground,” says Willoughby.
Rather than hunting down inspiration, Willoughby
prefers a more laid-back approach, letting
whatever passes her way catch her interest.
Much of her art is a result of influences marinating
all day and becoming realized at night. She shares
the same philosophy as the Japanese art of wabi-
sabi, which finds beauty in imperfections.
She’s guided by basically everything she’s come
across in life: animals, decomposition, poetry and
“the minds of other people turned inside out.”
For more info, visit myspace.com/notesfrombelow.

Putting Heart
Back into Art
Artist Mark Elliot (‘07 BFA) doesn’t recall when he began his love affair with
art. But, here at one eighty his vulnerable figures had us at, well, you know.
Casi Densmore-Koon (online BFA Fashion Journalism) talks to him about
his emotional landscapes.
one eighty (180): What goes through your mind
when you sit down to a blank canvas?
Mark Elliot (ME): I can’t really answer this question
right now. Today when I sat down nothing came.
So, I answered some emails and played with my
kids. I think about 10:00 tonight it will come back.
180: Are your illustrations ever autobiographical?
ME: Some are private. Some are personal. Most
are daydreams really.
180: How many projects are you working on at any
given time?
ME: I have about five sketchbooks I’m regularly
drawing in. I usually have two to four paintings
going. They need time to dry and I need time away
from them to think.
180: What are your favorite materials to work with?
ME: Anything flat-oil, acrylic, ink, whiteout.
Whatever. It all has its place and purpose.
28
180: What’s your advice for those interested in
pursuing a career in art?
ME: Number one: be kind to people. You never
know where an opportunity is going to come from.
Two, be easy to work with; no one makes it all on
their own. Three, meet your deadlines. Start that
practice now. Nothing gets easier after school.
Four, make sacrifices. You may have to miss some
nights out on the town. Get sleep. Your brain
needs to be involved with what your eyes and
hands are doing. Five, work, work, work. There is
always someone else out there doing what you are
doing and maybe a little better.
180: Is your work available for purchase?
ME: You can look for a show in September 2009 at
the Academy. While I was a student, I scheduled
my senior show two and a half years out. I thought
it would be a good reason to come back to the city
after graduation. Now it’s only a few months out
and I never left San Francisco.
Check out his blog: www.jetpropelledrobot.blogspot.com.
Petrified
BUT JIN YOUNG YU’S
MODELS WILL SURVIVE
Jin Young Yu’s angst-ridden sculptures stand three
to five feet tall and were designed as family units
with pet dogs in tow. The pigeon-toed figurines
are made of clear PVC and have masks that don
blank and sad expressions. The only optimistic
spot is the Marimekko-esque prints on the tights.
Yu’s work is at London’s Union Gallery (www.union-
gallery.com). She will also show at the Hong Kong
Art Fair in May and at London’s Zoo Art Fair in October.
—Sheri Williams, online BFA Fashion Design
Guys & Their Dolls
DENIM DESIGNER CIRIACO SAYOC HAS A NEW HOBBY.
AND, FOR THE RECORD, THEY’RE FIGURINES– NOT DOLLS.
By Natassia Silva, BFA Fashion Merchandising
For the past five years, Ciriaco Sayoc (Fashion Design, ’01) has been working for
Levi Strauss. When he isn’t slaving away in the denim dungeon, he’s obsessively
working on a collection of one-of-a-kind figurines, which he calls “Figments.”
Figments grew out of Sayoc’s passion for sneaker collecting in high school.
His collection ranges from humanoid figurines outfitted with kicks to
patchwork bird-like stuffed animals. Each one is dressed to reflect Sayoc’s
interest in hip-hop culture.
His sneaker fetish has downsized from about 100 pairs to 10 as worn on
his favorite figurines. The dozens of others have been bought at his past art
shows at Haight’s Lower Haters gallery.
For information on Sayoc’s upcoming shows, visit www.afigmentof.com.
 With Flowie designer
Yaling Hou

Pillow Talk
By Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism

Yaling Hou’s home decor line Flowie, is an Cool collage of San Francisco. Love the patchwork. The recycled
extension of her passion for textile design. Hou This pillow tells a story of the city. fabrics are a good interpretation of
uses traditional hand drawings as well as computer the “Discarded to Divine” theme.
Cori Ferguson BFA Design ‘10
generated graphics to create her nature-inspired
motifs. Her line includes everythingfrom scarves Jennifer Filo BFA Fashion Design ‘12
and tote bags to towels and stationary.
We recently gave this alumna (MFA Textile Design
‘07) a sneak preview of submissions to San
Francisco’s Discarded to Divine spring show. Here
are her favorite picks that go up for bid this May.

Good stitching. And, the Nice contrast between line drawing

childlike drawing is fun. and broad strokes. My cousin Nicole
would like to add this pillow to her
Dong Zhong BFA Fashion Design ‘09 collection of shiny gold objects.
Zhangchi Wang BFA Fashion ‘11

My favorite! Great color and illustration

DISCARDED TO DIVINE

Photos by Bob Toy

combinations. I’d love to frame these and
hang them on my hallway wall. St. Vincent de Paul’s runway show and auction fuschia
Alexandra Cohen BFA Design ‘09 help the homeless. by Melissa Paullus, BFA Fashion Journalism COLOR
Four years ago, Sally Rosen, the Help Desk Director at St. Vincent de Paul,
experienced an epiphany while sorting through donations: she would take the
bins of discarded clothes, curtains and luggage to designers to rework into
ready-to-wear and home furnishings. Since then, every year, the clothes go on
display at the de Young museum and are auctioned off. The proceeds go to help
the city’s homeless population and survivors of domestic abuse.
This year’s show takes place on May 7, 2009 at San Francisco’s Gift Center
Pavilion. For more info, go to www.discardedtodivine.org.
I love any print with dogs! Simple, yet eye-catching. I can see
this pillow in my new living room.
Delphina Rodriguez BFA Fashion ‘10
Kathryn Rubin BFA Fashion Design ‘09

30
 THREE TUNED-IN
TASTEMAKERS SHOW WHY
THE RIGHT MUSIC MAKES
ALL THE DIFFERENCE.
Marc Jacobs spring runway

By Tia Newton, MFA Fashion Journalism

Surprisingly the thump coming from the runway isn’t just

another model taking a tumble but rather the sound artistry of
a deejay. Previously considered little more than sonar wallpaper,
runway music has evolved into a choice just as important as
hairand makeup. Designers use music to tell the stories behind
their collections. One eighty profiles some of the best that spin
their unique sounds on the runways.

DJ SCOTT EWALT DJ WILSON CHAN DJ FREDERIC SANCHEZ

The music can either make or break the show
according to New York based DJ Scott Ewalt,
who’s been DJ-ing for over 21 years. He’s created
the sound for over 100 runways including Thierry
Mugler, Isabel Toledo, Hugo Boss and Reem Acra.
This past New York Fashion Week, he worked with
Academy of Art University, James Coviello and
Adrienne Vittadini. He finds inspiration from what
he calls the “sound of the season,“ which for him
includes ‘60s dancehall covers of Motown.
Ewalt says it’s important for him to meet with
fashion clients to strike a balance between
the clothes and the soundtrack so that
the overal show appears informed about the past
and hip to the present.
DJ Wilson Chan is according to himself “the guy
that makes it come to life.” As a former graphic
designer at Nautica, Chan got his start in runway
music after he convinced the then creative director
to take a chance on him. Chan’s success led him to
underscore soundtracks for prestigious companies
such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Peter Som,
Derek Lam, Anne Klein, Zac Posen, Nicole Miller,
J.Mendel and Heatherette.
Finding the perfect music for a fashion show “is
about an overall feeling and understanding
inside when one hears the music. Sometimes
it is energy with a toe taping beat; sometimes
it is romantic [with a] melancholic beauty.”
For fall 2009, he worked with Carolina Herrera,
Mattel on its Barbie’s 50th Anniversary fashion
show, Nicole Miller and Jason Wu. On Chan’s
playlist were Hercules and the Love Affair, Lily Allen,
Ladyhawke, The Killers and Cassie.
For Sanchez, creating the perfect runway
soundtrack “is a mental journey that’s not so much
about what’s popular at the moment but about re-
interpreting everything that surrounds us.” Parisian
Frederic Sanchez, considers himself a sound
designer, and customizes music for some of the
world’s most prestigious fashion houses.
Sanchez is responsible for introducing Miuccia
Prada to electroclash (Peaches) and Marc Jacobs
to “Rhapsody in Blue.” He got his big break
in 1988 creating tracks for French avant-garde
designer Martin Margiela’s runway shows. This
collaboration proved to be a major change in
runway music. It’s what Sanchez refers to as “a
mini revolution in fashion show soundtracks.”
Since then, he’s designed the music and forged
life-long relationships with fashion houses Calvin
Klein, Narciso Rodriguez and Jean Paul Gaultier.
On his radar for fall ‘09 are Current 93, Death in
June, Annette Peacock and David Bowie.

DJ Wilson Chan

32

“Sometimes you just have to throw aesthetics
“There’s some kind of strange thing that happens
“I was [making] pizza at this place that [drummer,
DON’T MESS WITH THE MEZZ
BEHIND A THICK CLOUD OF CIGARETTE SMOKE, BRADFORD COX IS
PONTIFICATING ON THE MERITS OF TYLER PERRY. IS THE FRONTMAN
OF THE ACCLAIMED ATLANTA-BASED INDIE QUARTET DEERHUNTER
REALLY EXTOLLING THE VIRTUES OF SOMETHING AS NON SEQUITUR
AS MADEA GOES TO JAIL? HE IS. HE SPEAKS ABOUT IT WITH THE SAME
INTENSITY AS HE DOES MUSIC, HIS HOMETOWN AND THE CONTROVERSY
SURROUNDING DEERHUNTER’S ROTATING DOOR OF BAND MEMBERS.
By Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism
Photos by Jeff Luger
34
Bradford Cox is as strikingly opinionated as he
is striking in appearance. The 26 year-old singer/
songwriter was born with Marfan Syndrome,
the same genetic disease which afflicted fellow
rocker Joey Ramone. As a result, he stands 6’4”
with the elongated physique of a young boy.That
alone though does not account for the audience’s
gawking. Cox is known to don muumuus and wigs
while rocking out.
together, and you can’t assume anyone’s going to
take any one thing from it,” he says of his band’s
spaced-out ambient sound. “There’s so much
going on when you’re playing. The performance is
just what happens when you’re not thinking about
it.”
to people when [we’re] up there on stage,” agrees
bassist Josh Fauver. “It’s very organic. I think it just
comes out of whatever kind of person you are to
begin with.”
Deerhunter has endured lineup changes in recent
years, but Fauver, who joined the band in 2004,
explained for the record that he did not replace
the previous bassist, the now deceased Justin
Bosworth, which is the rumor in many music circles.
Moses Archuleta] likes to eat at, and they needed a
bassist,” says Fauver. Their bassist at the time was
MIA. They actually couldn’t find him for awhile, and
when they did find him, he decided to stop playing
with them anyway.”
Bosworth, who was having drug problems, was
taking time off to get his life together when he died
tragically in a skateboarding accident. Following
the addition of Fauver on bass, Cox asked longtime
friend Lockett Pundt to sign on as guitarist. As a
San Francisco boasts some pretty impressive
historical concert venues, but newcomer
Mezzanine has set itself apart by not only holding
concerts but also offering a fully interactive
experience through video, lighting and sound.
Renowned as an event space with amazing
acoustics, which are some of the highest quality
you will find in the city, they also one-up the
competition by being a clean spot you wouldn’t
mind wearing yourlimited edition Air Force One's too.
result, Deerhunter’s music has evolved over the
years, but at the same time retains their original style.
Despite favorable reviews of their 2007 release
Cryptograms, and the more widely accessible
acclaim of 2008’s Microcastle, Deerhunter remains
on independent label Kranky Records and has kept
Atlanta as their homebase with no intentions of
relocating.
“Atlanta is an incredibly spread-out city, but it’s
rowdy too, ”says Fauver, “We are friends with a lot
of other bands in the area,but there’s not a lot of
crossover, musically. There’s no one Atlanta sound
because there never [can] be, which is great.”
Music venue keeps San Francisco’s hipsters happy and gets first prize for best hygiene.
Each year, Mezz hosts Noise Pop–San Francisco’s
citywide indie festival. Bands like Diplo, RZA and
Deerhunter have all taken the stage. And, they’ve
supported independent artists that have since
blown up like hip hopper Peanut Butter Wolf and
electronica duo Crystal Castles.
In regards to albums in the digital age, the band
has been victim to Internet leaks. “We like to
surprise people, so it’s kind of a let down,” says
Fauver. But, for Cox it doesn’t change the creative
process. “Sometimes we make demos in ways that
are better than the album versions,” he adds.
“The way we record is very fast, so there’s not really
enough time to listen to a lot of stuff,” says Cox.
“It’s not intentional. There’s just so little time. During
recording we’re just like little scientists, trying to
think of things to add to the songs to make them
more interesting.”
So, what are these sonic scientists preparing to
unleash next? “We have lots of touring, festivals
and hopefully Europe in May,” says Fauver.
As for upcoming albums, both Cox and Fauver
maintain their adoration for the element of surprise.
If their consistency in the past is any measure,
maybe that’s not a bad thing.
Located across from the historic Mint Plaza, Mezz
sometimes feels more like a zeitgeist of Bay Area
creativity than a physical space. This being a city in
love with all the arts, the goal according to manager
Travis Hellyer has always been to unite music with
film, fashion, music and art. Beyond live shows,
Mezz hosts a broad range of events including film
screenings in conjunction with the San Francisco
Film Society and fashion shows complete with DJ
sets and local designer duds. But, don’t call Hellyer
an overachiever; he’s just keeping his base happy.
As he says, “San Franciscans are not followers–
they want to create and discover.” -Melissa Tan
 freaks&
geeks
WONDERCON, THE ANNUAL SCI-FI AND
COMIC BOOK CONVENTION SERVES UP A
HEALTHY HELPING OF FANBOY FARE.
The big news at this year’s ‘Con was the announcement by Zac Snyder,
By Melissa Tan, BFA Fashion Journalism the director of Watchmen. He said there would be a theatrical release
Photots by Daryn LaBier, MFA Photography
of the director’s cut. The 210-minute cinematic spectacular based on
the acclaimed graphic novel by Alan Moore and Dave Gibbons will be
out this July. Following this will be the ultimate collector’s dream: a
230-minute DVD of the director’s cut interspliced with 20 minutes of
animated Black Freighter footage for true Watchmen aficionados.

Every year, geeks the world

over gather at San Francisco’s
Moscone Center for the Mecca
of all things science fiction,
fantasy and comicbook: Other anticipated summer re-
Wondercon. These fanboys and leases? Transformers: Revenge of
girls just don't show up in their the Fallen and G.I. Joe: Rise
jeans. Many come dressed as of the Cobra due out in June and
their favorite heroes (or hero- August, respectively. We’re not
ines) of the moment. worried about the wait since we’ll
be neck-deep in the four-hour
long DVD release of Watchmen.

36
 RUBY
is iLL
You know the image of the apathetic
twenty-something? How about the
shallow fashionista? Oakland-based
poet Ruby Veridiano-Ching turns
those stereotypes on their heads.
Interview by Anika Brown, BFA Fashion Merchandising
Photo by Rodolfo Diaz, BFA Photography
Ruby Veridiano-Ching’s work delves into
everything from broken hearts to social activism
to pop culture. Her performances with spoken
collective iLL-Literacy are an electrifying
concoction of spoken word, hip-hop and live
music. Their unique style has garnered
attention from the likes of HBO’s Def Poetry Jam,
MTV and rapper Mos Def.
One eighty caught up with Veridiano-Ching
fresh off of an East Coast tour.
one eighty (180): What is iLL-Literacy and
how did it come about?
RVC: iLL-Literacy is a touring spoken word/music
collective that I co-founded with my good friend
Adriel Luis in college at U.C. Davis. I’ve been
performing with iLL-Literacy for the past six years.
180: Touring sounds glamorous, but
what’s it really like?
RVC: The tour was bananas. Nine of us trekked
in a van in the East Coast cold. We celebrated
election night blasting Young Jeezy and Cody
Chestnutt and toasted with soda at a Pennsylvania
gas station. We had a show almost every night
so my throat got raspier by the day. I lived out
of hotel rooms and fried food. We settled in for
one night only to leave and pack for the next
city in the morning. It was exhausting, cold
and uncomfortable. And it was one of the most
beautiful experiences of my lifetime.
38
T-shirt design by Anika Brown
180: What is your favorite place and why? silhouettes is fascinating to me. I love
new ways of reinventing things that we wear
RVC: Paris. (Sigh, Versailles!) The trip was
everyday. I get excited when I see something made
so unexpected. I remember sitting at home
in an unexpected texture, color or cut.
with Adriel. He suggested that we email our
press kit to a school in Paris as a joke. Two weeks 180: Does fashion play a role in your performance?
later, I was jumping up and down when I received
RVC: I know I couldn’t go out and perform if I don’t
the call that we were actually going! It was so
feel fly. Style is part of my personal expression
surreal–the architecture, the Parisian air and the
so it’s an extension of my art My motto? Fashion
fashion. We walked from Montparnasse to the
before comfort. [Laughs] I’ll troop around in heels
Eiffel Tower one night, and I felt like I was inside
all day if it makes my outfit pop.
a dream.
180: Do you have any favorite fashion designers?
180: Last year you published your first book
of poetry, Miss Universe. What’s it about? RVC: Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, Phillip Lim, Derek
Lam, Monique Lhuillier, Alexander Wang and
RVC: Miss Universe is my offertory [sic] to the
Marc Jacobs. I also love streetwear designers like
art of language. It documents a fly Filipina girl
Lanie Alabanza-Barcenda of Hellz Bellz and adore
who finally learns how to own her wings. It also
the philosophy of Samantha Alonso—she owns
explores the politics of race between black and
Fruition a streetwear boutique in Las Vegas.
Asian communities, the complications of love, and
admitting to the fascination of fame while [turning] 180: Complete this statement: Art is . salmon rose
a critical eye to American media.
RVC: necessary COLOR
180: What inspires you?
180: Style is .
RVC: I love people who emit positive energy
RVC: personal expression
and aren’t afraid to turn their vision into reality.
I surround myself with people who are creating 180: Life as an artist is .
with good intentions. I get excited by artists who
RVC: a beautiful struggle that I would
are constantly pushing boundaries: M.I.A., Janelle
never give up
Monae, Kanye West and Andre 3000.
For more info on this modern day Renaissance
I’m also inspired by fashion and personal style.
woman, visit www.rubyisill.com.
Some garments drape so poetically. Fashion is an
art form. The way designers create and enhance
In Colored Landscapes
Cross-processing film creates a panaromic of summer's sundresses

All dresses by Elena Akoulova, MFA Fashion Design
Photos by Cassie Raney, MFA Photography
Stylist: Mariana Rios, BFA Fashion Design
Model: Alexis @ Look
Hair by Tony Jones @ MNKYTHMP
40
Makeup by Aiko Chu @ MNKYTHMP
42
44
46
48
50
 DOWNTON
UK artist turned fashion illustrator extraordinaire
FOR THOSE in the world of fashion, viewing David
Downton’s work can be an eye-opening experience.
He is known for portraits of celebrities and supermod-
els like Dita Von Teese, Linda Evangelista and Lily
Cole. Downton captures the moment at its most chic
through his fluidity of lines and use of space.
At the beginning of his career, when he was busy
tackling everything from children’s books to sex
manuals, venturing into fashion seemed unlikely.
That all changed when the illustrator began sketch-
ing the Paris Haute Couture shows for the Finan-
cial Times. There, he formed a lasting friendship
with supermodel Erin O'Connor.
52
With her distinctive profile, elegant proportions and
natural ability to pose, O'Connor was born to be
rendered and sketched.
Today, his portfolio extends from the creation of
fashion illustration magazine, Pourquoi Pas? to
covers and editorials for publications such as
Harper’s Bazaar (UK) to retail clients such as Saks
Fifth Avenue and Tiffany & Co.—Shaneia Caldwell,
online MFA Fashion Journalism
Opposite: Erin O'Connor
From top: Giambattista Valli, Thierry Mugler
All illustrations by David Downton.
 “It felt so very glamorous to be
sketched, I was absolutely astonished at
the beauty of his art, and how he creates
it.”—Dita Von Teese

“David is the ultimate illustrator. He captures every nuance in

the sitters face...we had great fun with Erin O’Connor and Linda
Evangelista with their portraits (for the G Hotel in Gallway) He has
a history with these people. He loves drawing them and they love
being drawn by him.” —Philip Treacy
“ The modern day Gruau.”—Valentino
54
 WHEN TREND forecast agency Stylesight
asked design students from around the world to
submit the next big trend in prints, Belda Farika
(MFA Merchandising) answered the call with a
contrasting combination of murky greens and
raspberry reds. Her daring design won first
prize. One eighty applied her winning print to the
accessory of the moment: tights. And, we included
our own honorable mentions. —Sata Schramm, MFA
Fashion Journalism

Styled by Ashley Johnson, BFA Fashion Journalism

Photos by Scott Hammel

Belda Farika, MFA Fashion Merchandising

56
 Ruby Guerra, MFA Textile Design

Aisha Drake, BFA Textile Design

Yi Hui Wen, MFA Textile Design

Visakha Potpakorn, MFA Textile Design Maria Korovilas, MFA Fashion and Textile Design Visakha Potpakorn, MFA Textile Design Hannah Paik, BFA Textile Design

58
 Where the wild things were not!
Maurice Sendak's monsters come to life in onesies

All clothes by Aurelie Martin-Chiari MFA ‘08 Fashion Design
and Van Kim Le, BFA ‘08 Textile Design  
Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography
Illustrated by Jannika Lilja BFA Fashion Design
Assistants: Claudia Paolinelli, Jackie, Drew, Natassia Silva and Desanka all School of Fashion. 
Models: Soojoo and Rayana Regan @ FORD
Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP
Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C.
60
Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.
62
64
66
68
 Designer Lookbook: 
Dresses made for dramatic entrances and wind machines.
By: Renata Lindroos

“Appreciate the journey, and enjoy the process of getting there,” says
Louisa Parris, an Academy of Art University instructor by way of London’s
Central St. Martins College of Art and Design. Her collection of jet-set
Grecian-inflected dresses has gone international since she won the GenArt
Styles 2008 Design Award in the category of eveningwear.

Parris’ spring collection is inspired by the vibrant colors and color
blocking of artists such as Josef Albers and Piet Mondrian. 
Her retro-glamgowns are known for their drape and fluidity – perfect 
for the girl who wants to make an entrance in a cloud of chiffon.
wants to make an entrance in a cloud of chiffon.
Photos by Michael O'Neal
Model: Heather @ FORD

70 See her collection here and at www.louisaparris.com.
72
Julian & Helene
Photos by: Joe Budd
Art Direction: Ivan Mendoza
Stylist: Michael Carbaugh, BFA Design ‘02.
Styling assistant: Jungah J. Lee, BFA Fashion Design
Models: Helene Johnsen @ Stars  Model Management
Julian @ City Models 

On him: Alpaca hand-knitted coat and scarf by Scott McFarland, MFA Knitwear ‘08. White t-shirt by Uniqlo.
74
On her: Batik dress by Heather Howard, MFA Fashion Design ‘08 and Kat Janky, MFA Textile Design ‘08. Vintage oxford by Ann Demeulemeester.
 76
Dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky.
On her:  Alpaca and ribbon jacket by Scott McFarland.
Distressed flannel dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky.
78
On him: Hand-knitted lace coat and thermal by Scott McFarland. Oscar de la Renta oxford shirt from Mission Thrift. Vintage white tank from Thrift Town. 
Hand-knitted lace coat and thermals by Scott McFarland. 
Vintage oxford shirt by Oscar de la Renta from Mission Thrift. 
80
Vintage white tank from Thrift Town. Creepers from Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.
 82
Sweaters and thermal pants by Scott McFarland. Scarf by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. Creepers by Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.
On her: Dress by Heather Howard and Kat Janky.
84
On him: All knits by Scott McFarland.
Sweater and thermal pants by Scott McFarland. 
86
Oxford shirt form Mission Thrift. Batik print bandana by Heather Howard and Kat Janky. Suede creeps from Underground, Trash and Vaudeville NYC.
On him: Lace and hand-knitted coat and scarf by Scott McFarland. White t-shirt by Uniqlo.
88
On her: Dress by Heather Howard. Vintage oxford by Ann Demeulemeester.
 DAI FUJIWARA
F A S H I O N ’ S M A N O F T H E F U T U R E
BY K E L LY WETHERILLE,
Portrait by Tamotsu Fujii
ISSEY MIYAKE is a brand with nearly four decades
O N L I N E M F A F A S H I O N J O U R N A L I S M of history. It remains one of the most innovative
companies in fashion, continually blurring the
lines between technology and craftsmanship. This
philosophy is carried on by the line’s Creative
Director, Dai Fujiwara, who in 2006 took the reins
from Mr. Miyake’s successor, Naoki Takizawa.
Fujiwara is, above all else, an intellectual. His
brilliance can be seen in his meticulous approach to
design. For this season’s spring line, Fujiwara led
a team of designers and assistants on a “color
hunting” expedition deep into the Amazon,
where the team painstakingly matched the colors
of leaves, mud and river water to swatches.
But once the palette had been chosen, Fujiwara
wasn’t satisfied. “After being in the jungle and
feeling nature around me, I found myself wanting
to go into the city and see something manmade, so
we decided to go to Rio de Janeiro,” he says.
90
In the city, Fujiwara met with famed Brazilian
architect Oscar Niemeyer, the centigenarian whose
works can be seen in cities across Europe and the
Americas. Fujiwara admires Niemeyer for being
able to transform a very simple idea into a strong
message. Niemeyer’s influence on Fujiwara can be
seen in this spring’s dresses based on the curved
line sketched by the architect.
For the fall 2009 menswear collection, Fujiwara
was again inspired by architectural elements,
specifically frames. Never one to settle for one
solo theme, he combined this idea with inspiration
from martial artists. “They know how to control and
to keep their energy in one stroke,” says Fujiwara.
“This is the same philosophy that Issey Miyake has:
we try to use everything to make one product from
one piece of cloth with no waste.” Here, Fujiwara
is referring to A-POC, the idea that first gained him
recognition as a fashion innovator back in the ‘90s.
A-POC stands for A Piece of Cloth, and is the
brainchild of Fujiwara. He presented this idea to
Miyake, who recognized its potential. What
followed has been dubbed “the way clothes will
be made in the future” by experts across the
fields of design and technology. Simply put, a
series of information, including measurements,
colors and special finishes, is input in a
computer, which then relays the information to
a specialized knitting or weaving machine. The
machine goes to work, and what comes out is,
after a few scissor snips by the customer along
faint outlines, a finished garment, completely
customized to the customer.
Fujiwara's attention is on the future. “A-POC cannot
be used for everything. To move the technology
forward, other companies need to expand on the
current ideas and develop them for new uses,
rather than just doing the same thing we are doing.”
“Now, it’s easy to get
clothes from a website.
But this is information, not
objects. When customers
buy online, they tend to
buy the cheapest option.
The web is the future,

Photo by Frederique Dumoulin

but in its current state it is
discouraging new ideas.
We must change the rules.”
—Dai Fujiwara
92
 EYE PHOTO
an exhibition. 

When we asked our students to submit pix 
taken with their cell phones,  We didn't know 
what to expect. Imagine our surprise when 
we got an overwhelming 250 images. 
It was hard to choose among all the poetic, 
weird, funny and artsy snapshots in time, 
but we did our best. Here are our favorites.

94
1st 
A Fishermans Friend by Matilda Kahl BFA Advertising 
96
2nd    
Curious Sam by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are.
1st 3rd
E-Motion by Ngoc Ngo MFA Graphic Design  Curious Sam by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.  
98
Ocotillo by Andy Orin MFA Motion pictures and television directing  
MPT Happening by Chaichat Pilun-Owad MFA Advertising
Happening by Chaichat Pilun-owad MFA Advertising  
100 Vision of Spring by Ryan Notch MFA Photography
Vision of Spring by Ryan Notch MFA Photography   Caution by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.  
Caution by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are.
102 Boogie Lights by Anonymous. Please let us know who you are. HANG ZHOU by Roger Wang MFA Graphic Design
Boggie Lights by ‘Anonymous’ Please let us know.   HANGZHOU by Roger Wang MFA Grahic Design
 Chic toppers that bump in the night by Laela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

 Hat by Laela Barnard for Louisa Parris
Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography
Assistants: Claudia Paolinelli, Jackie, Drew, Natassia Silva and Desanka all School of Fashion. 
Models: Christon and Devon @ FORD
Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP
Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C.
104
Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.   Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris
 Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

  Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

106
Hat by Virgil Sparks BFA Fashion Design  Hat by Stephanie Holtz 
 Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

  Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

108
Hat by Rachel Ann Knigge BFA Fashion Design Hat by Jae Doo Shim BFA Fashion Design 
 Chic toppers that bump in the night by Lela Barnard and our milliners-in-training

Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris
  Hat by Lela Banard for Louisa Parris

110
Hat by Alexandra Cohen, BFA FAshion Design 
BFA Fashion Design Hat by Justin Vu BFA Fashion Design  Hat by Bruni Nigh Hat by Laela Barnard for Louisa Parris
 E
Photos by Rus Anson MFA Photography
RA
Assistant Stylist: Sara Boork BFA Fashion Merchandising  
ER OR
Model: Rebecca @ FORD
Hair: Jezabel Medina @ Cinta Aveda Institute 
Makeup: Chris Scott
 

Toile on model by Nancy DeLos Reyes BFA Fashion Design
Toile on hanger by Elizabeth Prost.  
112 Architecture models: Hank Liu MA.RCH
 Toile on model by Amie/ Ji Hae Yoon BFA Fashion Design
Toile by Natalia Caririna BFA Fashion Design   Toile on hanger by Dee Larson BFA Fashion Design  
114
Architecture models: Jay Zhu MA.RCH Architecture models: Isabelle Suwandi MA.RCH
116 Toile by Jennifer Dickert BFA Fashion Design                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Toile by Virgil Sparks.  Architecture models: Mary Telling MA.RCH
This page: Toile by: Diana Legorreta BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu M.A.RCH.                                             
This page: Toile by Diana Legorreta BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu MA.RCH                                             
118
Opposite page: Toile by: Elizabth Fisher BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models:: Helen Wang M.A.RCH & Patty Guevara M.A.RCH.                                                                           
Opposite page: Toile by Elizabeth Fisher BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models: Helen Wang MA.RCH & Patty Guevara MA.RCH                                                                           
: Elizabeth
120                                                                              Toile by Elizabeth Prost BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models: Chia-Lun Lu MA.RCH                                                                                                                                                                           Toile by Jessy/Jung Ah Cho BFA Fashion Design.  Architecture models: Hank Liu MA.RCH     
 HIGH STYLE
SAN FRANCISCO'S DENISE HALE
I S A N I N T E R N AT I O N A L B E S T- D R E S S E D L I S T H A L L O F F A M E I N D U C T E E
AND AN ORACLE ON FASHION
MY LIFE is very different from most people.
I was nineteen when I had my first couture
fitting at Christian Dior. In Rome, I met
Roberto Capucci. When I was in Beverly Hills
and married to my second husband Vincente
Minnelli, there was Jimmy Galanos. And
then I met couturier Gianfranco Ferré, who
became one of my best friends. He was like a
brother to me. And now, there is Ralph Rucci.
What is very important for students to learn
is the cut because honestly the fit is the most
important. I admire Ralph Rucci. His line Chado
has the perfect cut.
If you think one part of your body doesn’t
look good, cover it—and look at your
back. You know the jacket should cut
down here if you don’t have a great figure.
122
Hems are very important and they should
always be one inch longer in the back.
Most people don’t think about that.
Look at what is good for you. These gladiator
shoes—tell me who’s attractive in them? Only
if you are five feet eight. Don’t look at fashion
magazines. I don’t go to fashion shows because
it’s only for photographers—not for people who
actually wear the clothes.
Basically, I am very much into simplicity: simple
cut and beautiful material. It’s much better to have
a few dresses that are very good than plenty that
don’t look good. Then, I think about the other
most important thing: the shoes. You can wear
very expensive clothes, but you should also invest
in a nice pair of shoes. And make it elegant and
timeless. But the shoes need to be walkable.
When I was in Los Angeles, I saw only one model
who could walk normally, in very high heels.
Before you buy it, try it. This young lady, Emily
Melville, her designs are what I consider beautiful.
[Editor’s Note: See next page for Melville’s
coat.] It’s real talent. The material is right; the cut
is right; the fit is right. Everything is right.—as
told to Tafen Kuo, BFA Fashion Merchandising
MNKYTHMP; Makeup: Christine Littel, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Coat by Emily Melville, '08 MFA Fashion Design and Ivanka Georgieva,'08 MFA Textile Design; Jewels, model’s own.
Photographer: Beata Pevny, MFA Photography; Stylist: Tafen Kuo, BFA Fashion Merchandising; Hair: Joshua Thompson @ MNKYTHMP
124
DISCO KNITS
Homage to Grace Jones
Clothes by Daniel Emir Armosilla MFA Fashion Knitwear
Stylist: Flore Morton
Photos by Jeff Dojillo MFA Photography

126

FROM DOHA
A tour of the city led by fashion students at Qatar University
By Renata Lindroos and Erika Lind
QATAR and its capital Doha are unlike other
parts of the Middle East. The culture here
is modern and progressive. At the fashion
department at Qatar University, Ali Khan
teaches second and third year classes.
Khan is an MFA graduate in fashion design,
who completed the Academy’s online pro-
gram while in Pakistan. He prepares his stu-
dents for the global market by teaching
128
Photos by Ali Khan and his design students: Carla Mallari, Malak Abdul Aziz, Bekita Mubarak, 
Selina Farouki, Ahmed Al Sayed, Esra Sharab and Sabrina Christensen
1. Qatar’s Islamic Cultural Center: Unlike Dubai, Doha is for the residents. It hasn’t been taken over by glittery skyscrapers or luxury resorts.
Souq Waqif: a traditional Qatari market place with a modern twist. There are shisha lounges alongside cafes and souvenir shops.
2. The Museum of Islamic Art designed by I.M. Pei opened its doors last December with the largest collection of Islamic art in the world.
3. Fashion illustrations from Professor Khan’s class.
them one of the cardinal rules of fashion.
“My message is to modernize – to show
that there are ways to reflect your culture
other than imitation,” says Khan. He feels
both the responsibility and the honor of
teaching in a country with thousands of
years of history. “Modernization done the
right way can actually be a tribute to your
culture and not disrespect for it.”
1.                                          2.                                                                              3.
 ero
From Pennsylvania
Avenue to the
international runways,
spring’s shows were
a parade of one-
shoulder dresses,
strategically placed
slits and perfectly
FOR MUCH of this framed necklines that The need for clothing and adornment is equally
decade, legs have drew attention not to tied to our sexuality–with style acting as a human
been the most potent models’ busts or their version of a mating call.
erogenous zones of legs, but to their well-

gen
the female anatomy. defined collarbones. Flugel also noted that even in places where little
From skinny jeans The Balmain show to no clothing was worn, cultures found ways
to barely there micro- rocked an updated to highlight and enhance certain body parts.
minis, the focus has ‘80s look while Polynesian tribes used elaborate, large-scale
been overwhelmingly Balenciaga and tattoos to accentuate a young woman’s thighs,
below the waist… Narciso Rodriguez buttocks, and lower back. At the age of six
until now. were characteristically or seven Chinese girls began the foot binding
minimalist and full of process in order to perfect the sway of the lotus
The most influen- sex appeal. In Milan, gait. Victorian aristocrats donned rib-altering
tial advocate of Frida Giannini featured corsets to make their hips and backside more
this change is none vibrant, tropical prominent.

ous
other than Michelle prints for her “Gucci
Obama. America’s Exotica” collection. In the '30s costume historian James Laver
Best legs. Best abs. Best… clavicles? new sartorial icon, Despite the disparity expanded on Flugel’s work to explain the rapid
Anika Brown (BFA Fashion Merchandising) adds a new her fashion sense has in mood, all these style changes of female dress in modern cultures.
garnered almost as designers (along with According to his “shifting erogenous zones”
category to this list of superlative body parts. many of their peers)
many international theory, the more we fixate on and flaunt a body
headlines as her showcased the same part, the more we exhaust its allure. Take for
husband’s policies. often-overlooked area. example the thong-as-accessory craze: Ten years
The biggest buzz has ago it was edgy and sexy to have that tiny triangle
come from the First SHIFTING peeking out from a pair of ultra-low rise jeans.
Lady’s affinity for EROGENOUS ZONES There was even a chart-topping song written
sleeveless and one- “Erogenous zones,” about it. Now, it’s just tacky.
shoulder wonders coined in the '20s by
that showcase her psychoanalyst J.C. Over time, we become desensitized to such
toned arms and Flugel, are the areas ubiquitous erogenous zones and move on to a new
shapely clavicles, the of the female body body part to lust over. Laver believed that it was
latter, which is the a society finds most this fickle need for new stimuli that fueled trends in
main subject of our arousing. (Other than women’s fashion. “The erogenous zone,” he wrote
exploration. The plum the codpieces that in 1937, “is always shifting, and it is the business
V-neck dress she wore popularized the 16th of fashion to pursue it, without ever catching it up.”
to Congress was so century, menswear
stunning it elicited a has typically bypassed These shifts generally occur around the same
bi-partisan “babe” erogenous zones.) areas – breasts, hips and legs, the waist, the back,

zones whisper from one

Republican
congressman to
another.
In his study, “The
Psychology of
Clothes,” the Freud
disciple observed that
and the derriere. They manifest themselves in
different ways through the years, but those are the
areas consistently in play.

our relationship to
fashion goes beyond
practicality or even
vanity.

130
“Fashion’s pendulum is
now swinging in the
opposite direction. Instead
of flaunting every inch
of the body, a more
demure and more flirtatious
form of sex appeal has
emerged.ʼ̓ —Anika Brown
132
From left: Lanvin, Alberta Ferretti, Balenciaga. Photos by Matt Lever for Redken.
CLASS OVER TRASH
Obviously, the collarbone is not one of those
heralded regions. In all honesty, it could be the
most ignored part of the human body. So, why the
sudden popularity?
The main reason for the current shift is the
reactionary nature of fashion. Both consumers and
designers are tired of the exhibitionist aesthetic
that has dominated the past few years. The barely-
there trend began when Jennifer Lopez sashayed
down the Grammy red carpet in her scandalous
Versace dress, reached its zenith with pop tarts
like Paris Hilton, and has since spiraled out of
control. It’s clear a look is on its last breath when
eleventh graders and O. C. housewives alike
start traipsing around like Maxim cover girls.
Fashion’s pendulum is now swinging in the opposite
direction. Instead of flaunting every inch of the
body, a more demure and more flirtatious form of
sex appeal has emerged. Women are looking for
classy, not trashy; suggestive not overt styles that
leave something to the imagination.
Having already exhausted the standard erogenous
zones, designers we forced to find another medium
for this new ideal of beauty. The collarbone not
only provides a fresh area to dote on, it is the
perfect representation of a coy façade.
Dainty and thin, the clavicle is the epitome of
femininity. It also slyly leads the eye to more
alluring parts of the body thanks to its location
between the face and bust.
Better still, clavicles are more forgiving and
universal than the other zones. You do not have to
be a size zero to have a well-defined collarbone. Nor
do you have to have mile-long legs or a certain ratio
of curves to look great in an off-the-shoulder dress.
Sexy and easy-to-wear? One can only hope the
lowly collarbone’s time on fashion’s center stage
lasts as long as its more titillating predecessors.
 urban outfitted
from Brooklyn with Love
 
With its anti-designer chic and post-party hair, Brooklyn artist enclave Williamsburg has become a 
breeding ground for avant-garde creativity. Here hipsters speak about their love and hate of the ‘burg.

Photos by Rudolfo Diaz , BFA Photography

Written by Melissa Tan , BFA Fashion Journalism

Banyi Franco, 21, is an apprentice at a tattoo parlor in Greenpoint. Born in El Salvador, 
02
she moved to Brooklyn at the age of three, and has grown up calling the borough home.  
T-Shirt from Academy of Art University student store 
134 "It has a sense of peace Manhattan has always yearned for–and it has a beach."
  
T-Shirt by Farah Akbik ('09 BFA ) Brittany Anderson is a Brooklyn baby, born and bred in Bedstuy.
Jean Paul Rivillas spent the first half of his life in Piedra, Colombia. For him, Brooklyn stands out as a unique melting pot of cultures.  T-Shirt by Homeroom 
California Apparel  She works part-time at a gallery and is a self-taught tattoo artist.
He has experienced the excitement of travel, and doesn't want to limit himself to Brooklyn. Favorite spots? None. "I feel Willyburg is www.homeroomclothing.com
136 www.californiaapparelclothing.com Besides citing Brooklyn as the “epicenter of subculture,” her favorite thing about the hood is that the Olsen twins don’t live there.
 overrated. Too much flash and too little substance.  Brooklyn is beautiful, but it's changing, and not for the better."
Lenny Correa isn't actually a Brooklynite although he is a frequent visitor. 
T-Shirt by Yana Galbshtein (‘06 BFA Fashion)
"What attracted me to Brooklyn," says Correa, "is the fact that it's not Manhattan." T-Shirt by Jennifer Jeon (‘02 MFA Textiles) Social Rebel www.socialrebelclothing.com
" Though he lives in Newark, Lenny appreciates the borough with its spring foliage.  
138
 Drawn  
We pile on the accessories of three rising stars with 2-D baubles inspired by Paris' spring couture
Photographed by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography
Model: Stephanie @ CITY
Illustrator: Jannika Lilja BFA Fashion Design
Hair: Sandy Hinojosa for MNKYTHMP
Makeup: Louise Zizzo and Victor Cembellin for M.A.C.
Makeup assistant: Sarah Pugh Dean for M.A.C.

QUOC LIEU
By: Ashley Johnson

Quoc Lieu’s (’00, BFA knitwear) self-taught fascination

with jewelry design began in high school. Thanks to the
Internet, he researched how to mold clay, fire it up and
voila. His first piece was a vest made of wire and beads.

For a formally trained knitwear designer, jewelry-

making may be an unconventional path. But, Lieu sees
the two concentrations interwoven – no pun intended.
Both require grace, a high level of patience and fine
craftsmanship. They say, once an art student, always an
art student.

“Jewelry is so traditional, and I hate that,” says Lieu.

“I wanted to do something different, and to inspire
others that there are no rules when it comes to creating.”

When inspiration strikes, he creates a mold rather than

a sketch. He admits that he can’t draw at all. There’s
hope for all of those croquis-impaired fashion majors
out there.

Patience, however, is a must. “It took me about a year to

get the diamond piece right,” he says.

“There’s a lot of math and measuring.” It’s a good thing,

since those genius diamond cage rings are his bestsellers.

Visit his site and get a sneak peak at his custom,

made-to-order pieces at www.quoclieu.com.

140 Drawn earrings by Jean Paul Gaultier. Drawn pearls and bracelet by Armani Privé. Drawn chain by Givenchy.   
 142
All jewelry by Quoc Lieu
 viv&ingrid
By: Sequoia Hopkins
, BFA Fashion Journalism

Indie jewelry label viv&ingrid celebrates its 10th anni-

versary this year. The company is a dream realized by
childhood friends Vivian Wang and Ingrid Chen
(MFA Merchandising). They created their business over
a postcard exchange while Chen was developing her
MFA thesis in the fashion merchandising program.

Both ladies are obsessive about style. Wang describes

hers as sophisticated boho and Chen can’t decide
whether she is more sporty grandma or sexy librarian.
Among their eclectic collection is a pair of gold-wire-
wrapped earrings with teardrops. “The Siam chandelier
earrings are very of-the-moment,” says Chen. “It’s really
an earring for someone with a bold sense of fashion
and sense of self.” The accessory line is made domesti-
cally and many items are customized using fine
materials such as sterling silver, 14kt gold and semi-
precious stones.

Viv&ingrid is more than just beautiful baubles. Their

inspiration derives from the simple joy of giving and
receiving gifts. “Our mark of success is when customers
request a replacement for some viv&ingrid earrings
that they’ve misplaced, but just can’t live without,”
Chen says.

Check out this it brand at www.vivandingrid.com.

144
 Lynn Christiansen
By: Katherine Han-Noggle , MFA Fashion Design

Having just wrapped up a solo exhibit at San Francisco’s

Velvet da Vinci gallery, Lynn Christiansen (Sculpture, BFA)
is busy preparing for her next project. Christiansen
shares her former boss Jeremy Scott’s penchant for the
avant-garde. She names her biggest challenge as
finding the balance between making jewelry that sells
and her true passion, which is sculpture.

Her graduate collection consisted of armor chain metal,

a cue she took from her Viking ancestors. It was this
unique point of view that earned her a slot at New Zea-
land’s World of Wearable Art contest for which she
entered a dress made of chocolate and a tutu assem-
bled with Lego’s.

Her collections for sale are just as unique: gearrings

are made from repurposed watch parts. There’s also a
line inspired by pieces of found driftwood.

Her advice to fashion students? Spend time finding

your voice and inspiration. It’s paid off for her. These
days, she spends most of her time in her basement-
cum-studio doing what she loves.

Check out lynnchristiansen.com for more on her designs.

146
 IGNORE
THIS
BOX

IGNORE
THIS
BOX
Photos by Luis G. Hernandez MFA Photography assisted by Kelsey Winterkorn BFA Photography
Assistant stylists: Ashley Johnson BFA Fashion journalism and Peter Nguyen BFA Fashion Design 
Models Sara Jane and Casey @ FORD
Hair: Violette Urgitus @ MNKYTHMP    Makeup: Aiko Chu @ MNKYTHMP
148 All clothes by: Kara Laricks MFA Fashion Design  
 IGNORE
THIS
BOX

150
 IGNORE
THIS
IGNORE
BOX THIS
BOX

152
 lucite green
COLOR

154
 We Were There!
One eighty secures a spot at Barack Obama’s inauguration.
Byline: Kelly Dalbeck
By Kelly Dalbeck, BFA Fashion Journalism
Deborah Reyes, a security guard at 180 New Montgomery, is a difficult woman
to miss. Enter the building, and you’ll see her behind the front desk
sporting a Barack Obama scarf. It’s approaching the hundredth day of the new
president’s term in office, and she’s still wearing that scarf. In fact,
she’s been sporting it since the day of the inauguration when she was only
250 feet from the podium. Jealous yet?
 
Reyes earned her invitation after more than 2,000 hours of volunteering for
the president’s campaign; a monumental moment that she was able to share
with her son and mother.
 
 Reyes was one of the fifty lucky audience members who found a prize under
her seat, which included the aforementioned scarf, an Obama bobble-head and
an American flag. It was a crowd-pleasing trick that the event organizers
took out of Oprah’s playbook.
 
The inauguration took place one day after Martin Luther King, Jr.’s birthday
and that moment of triumph over adversity moves Reyes. Like the Civil Rights
leader, Obama’s presence has brought people together in a way that this
country has not seen since the ‘60s. “I met with people from all over the
world, who traveled hundreds of thousands of miles,” says Reyes. “[We] found
ourselves sharing our suite with strangers for four days and it did not
bother us. We all felt like old family friends.”
 
More than anything, Reyes says that she is proud to have been a part of that
moment in history. “As I sat in my seat, frozen, I thought MLK must have
been smiling today!”
156
PROTOTYPE
Korean-born designer and artist, Younghui Kim
takes fashion into the future with her award-winning,
avant-garde designs.
By Mignon A. Gould, MFA Fashion Journalism
Occupying the gray area between fashion designer
and industrial designer, Kim describes herself as an
“interactive wearable media artist who uses fashion
technology as a new medium.” Her first experiment
with fashion technology was showcased in the
performance Afrofuturistic at The Kitchen in New
York, for which she designed a jacket embellished
with a screen and lined with blinking lights.
Kim is an instructor at Hongik University in Seoul,
Korea and the cofounder of New York-based
Missing Pixel (an interactive media agency). And
with her co-founder Milena Berry, she invented
HearWear: The Fashion of Environmental Noise
Display, a groundbreaking technology transforming
everyday fashion into a walking light spectacular.
The concept behind HearWear is that it reacts to
environmental sound with moving light patterns. It
was the noises inherent to the fast-paced populous
of New York City that inspired Kim. “I was in pain
whenever a fire truck passed by with its really loud
horn sound and then I thought about visualizing
noises into lights,” she says.
HearWear designed garments and accessories use Kim believes that fashion will go in a direction of
a scale of lights to reflect amplitude and the level of improving lifestyle. She sees a promising future
light depends on the level of sound so that louder for fashion technology, believing the developing
noises trigger more light interaction. The HearWear process will be expedited with communities of
collection consists of ‘70s retro wrap skirts— design technologists who will show better ways
one with diagonal patchwork down the front, the to integrate electronics into wearables.
other with five diagonal rows of lights in a vertical
rainbow pattern, as well as a canvas tote bag with
a strip of lights on the front. The main components
that turn everyday gear into wearable electronic
garments are a custom engineered printed circuit
board and a sound recognition module that is
powered by a micro-controller that perceives and
qualifies varying noise patterns.
Kim has also taken this HearWear technology a
step further by creating Stir It On! where a garment
reacts to any close encounter on its surface such as
bumping or touching. She says the project will be
the first in a social fashion media series.
158
MEET ME AT THE CENTER

EXHIBITIONS 08_09
OF THE EARTH:
NEW WORK BY NICK CAVE
MAR 28–JUL 5
“Whether Nick Cave’s [soundsuits] qualify as fashion, body art or sculpture, and almost regardless of what
you ultimately think of them, they fall squarely under the heading of Must Be Seen to Be Believed.”
—The New York Times

Media Sponsor This exhibition is made possible in part by: the National Endowment for the Arts and YBCA Exhibitions 08_09 are made possible in part by: ; Mike Wilkins and Sheila Duignan and Members of Yerba Buena Center
The Bloomingdale’s Fund of the Macy’s Foundation. for the Arts

PERFORMANCE
NICK CAVE SOUNDSUITS COLLABORATION W/ CHOREOGRAPHER RONALD K. BROWN
THU, MAY 28, 7 PM; SAT, MAY 30–SUN, MAY 31, 3 PM // FREE W/ GALLERY ADMISSION (SPACE IS LIMITED)
Celebrated choreographer Ronald K. Brown brings Nick Cave’s shimmering suits to life in three exclusive live performance events in
YBCA’s galleries.
Soundsuits Collaboration w/ Ronald K. Brown is made possible by the Contemporary Art Centers Network, administered by the New England Foundation for the Arts (NEFA), with major support from the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts
and additional support from the Doris Duke Charitable Foundation.

NICK
CA
VE

SO
UND
S
UIT
S. P
HOT
O: JA
M ES P
RINZ

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YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS || 701 MISSION @ 3RD, SAN FRANCISCO || 415.978.ARTS OR WWW.YBCA.ORG art + you = life amplified.
 Congratulations to the class of 2009

162
 HOROSCOPE VIRGO
August 23-September 22
Let go of the past trials and allow Saturn
to help you realize your true potential.
CAPRICORN
December 22-January 19
Opportunities for professional growth
arise when Saturn makes an appearance
WHATDO
WHAT DOTHE
THE PLANETS
PLANETS HAVE
HAVE IN STORE
IN STORE FORTHIS
FOR YOU YOU This solidifying planet will define your in your 10th house responsible for your
SUMMER? SATYN HAPACH (BFA FASHION JOURNALISM)
THIS SUMMER? ASTROLOGIST-IN-TRAINING SATYN goals and give you the discipline to make career. This is a time for realizing your
WILL TELL YOU IF IT AUGURS WELL. it happen. Now that your path is clear, true ambitions. But remember to be
HAPICH WILL TELL YOU IF IT AUGURS WELL. your practical nature is free to focus sound of mind. Engage in activities that
on health and daily routines. Do as the enhance your intellectual stamina like
Illustrations by Han Yoon, BFA Illustration
Illustrations by Han Yoon, BFA Illustration Romans do, and bathe your worries meditation, or pick up that pencil and
away. Or try a master cleanse. tackle that Sudoku puzzle.

TAURUS
April 20-May 20
Don’t have a cosmic cow, man!
Your sign’s ruler Venus has returned
from retrograde just in time for your
birthday. Celebrate her homecoming
with an act of self-sacrifice – even if
that’s sharing your Ramen stash with a
starving roommate. Karma will notice
and reward you with a summer romance.
GEMINI
May 21-June 21
Be prepared when Jupiter, the planet of
growth and expansion, enters your
philosophy-ruling 9th house. Positive
change will happen at breakneck speeds.
It may involve business travel and
opportunities abroad. The sky’s the limit.
In your adventures, you’ll find your
spiritual place in the universe. Check into
an ashram when you get off the plane.
CANCER
June 22-July 22
The homebody in you finds security with an
economic safety blanket. And the perfect
mate to spend it with. Don’t let a slim wallet
bum you out, Crabby. Nab a part-time job at
your favorite clothing store–the killer discounts
will justify your spending. The solar eclipse
in Cancer makes it an especially enchanting
time. Oh, those summer nights!
LEO
July 23-August 22
Love is in the air thanks to a planetary
co-alignment in your 7th house of
partnerships and public life. The moon
in Aquarius and giant Jupiter join forces
to turn this proud lion into a sex kitten.
Jupiter also opens your mind to new
ideas and people. So try something
brazen and make the first move when
it comes to seducing the opposite sex.
LIBRA
September 23-October 23
Get a hotel room, Libra. You may want
to check in for the entire month as both
Venus and Mars are in your 7th house
of partnerships. When you are not
entertaining advances from your many
Casanovas, get your resume in order.
There’s a promotion for you this
summer if you play your cards right.
SCORPIO
October 24-November 21
The Scorpion has never been one to
forgive and forget, but now is the time.
By releasing yourself from emotional
scars, you will broaden your horizons.
Watch out for backstabbers and
teammates not willing to pull their own
weight! Pluto, in your 3rd house of
communication, makes you a smooth
operator, and you easily persuade others.
SAGITTARIUS
November 22-December 22
You are feeling extra compassionate
thanks to the work of Jupiter and
Neptune, the planet of spirituality.
This vulnerable state leaves you
susceptible to allergies. Schedule a
trip to the mountains for some much-
needed R&R. Your mighty inner hunter
is always right at home in the woods,
but don’t forget to pack the Claritin.
AQUARIUS
January 20-February 18
You are on high-energy overload! Try
to find a creative outlet and channel it
towards a greater good. Help Mother
Earth and join the green movement.
Perhaps that hot new fling that falls in
your lap mid-spring will manifest itself
into an ideal relationship. Hop on the
good foot, but do the bad thing.
PISCES
February 19-March 20
Your ability to heal and inspire is one
of your greatest gifts, and you are very
in-tune with your spirituality. In your
quest to raise the consciousness of
others, don’t forget to get in touch with
your own dreams. Maintain your own
individuality and sensitivity, and you will
be of service in a much larger way.
ARIES
March 21-April 19
Cuddle up to your sweetie. He might have
something monumental to ask of you. Now
is also a good time to schedule informational
interviews. Your take-charge nature will
ensnare that dream internship. But you may
not be as headstrong as you think, Aries— you
are prone to injuriesto the head and face this
year. Wear a helmet, my pretty.

164
 GET IN TOUCH
LAST WORD
Ten things to do at a fashion show
By Gladys Perint Palmer, Executive Director of Fashion

01
Carry nail scissors to cut wire or string that
attaches the chairs. Thus, if you are at the end of a
06
Wear Chanel to Chanel, Dior to Dior, Comme to
Comme. Change anywhere. Modesty is middle
row, you can pick up your chair and improve your class.

07
seating.

02
Look eccentric: shocking pink or emerald green
hair with matching rat peeking out of your bag will
If you do not have a front row seat arrive very,
very late just as the show begins - this suggests
someone took your seat. 
FIX
STAMP
HERE

08
get you everywhere.

03
ighty
Wear nosebleed stilettos because only those with Go backstage after every show to kiss-kiss, left then

09
a limo can get around this way.  right. Or kiss-kiss-kiss left, right and then left.

04

ne
Spend your last dime on a limo and make sure Find an assistant to carry your clutter. You should
your driver is smart enough to find you pronto as only carry your phone. 
Academy of Art University

10
you exit a show. 

05
School of Fashion 
7th Floor
180 New Montgomery 
Ignore unimportant people—they are contagious.  Never pay for anything. Send bills to Donatella, San Francisco California
Karl or Giorgio. 94105
 ighty

ne
VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE
COLOR + ART
fashion + art + culture = 180
spring 2009

VOLUME TWO ISSUE ONE

fashion + art + culture = 180
spring 2009