ultratravel

TheDaily Telegraph

YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON EARTH

AUTUMN 2014

CASTLES
IN THE
SAND

The best of
the Balearics

THERE BE DRAGONS
SAILING THE KOMODO ISLANDS
EASTERN STAR
VIETNAMS RESURGENCE
NAOMIE HARRIS
FROM BOND TO BYRON BAY
PLUS
BID IN OUR LUXURY AUCTION

ULTRA
EXPERIENCES
26-PAGE
A&K SPECIAL

LCKI8KI8M<C 

www.chanel.com

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Sailing in volcano country

Si Datu Bua, a traditional
phinisi, in theKicker
waters Caption
around
Komodo National Park (page 44)

CONTENTS
Features

25

34 Golden age Today the Balearics attract high-spending travellers who want
style, privacy and outstanding places to stay. We review eight of our favourites
44 Journey into the unknown Lisa Grainger sails by luxury phinisi to explore
the mysterious Komodo Islands, on an underwater and over-water safari
51 Capital places to stay London, Paris and New York have long battled to
be the hotel centre of the world. Claire Wrathall evaluates the best of the old
grande dames and the high-tech newcomers in all three cities
81 Enjoy the best holidays in the world Bid on 21 lots, from a golng trip
in Gleneagles to a cruise on Cunards Queen Victoria, in our silent auction
86 Rising in the East Vietnam is now Asias hottest luxury destination.
E Jane Dickson taps into its riches, from hip hotels to ancient culture
94 Best bet The Kentucky Derby is known as Americas most exciting two
minutes in sport. It is also, as Max Davidson discovers, a riotously good party.
We also select ve of the best race meetings around the world

Regulars

60

11 Editors letter Charles Starmer-Smith on the rebirth of the Balearics

14 The Next Big Thing John OCeallaigh reports on new superyachts, missions to
the moon, an ethically-designed zoo, and the best hotels for a good nights sleep
19 Little extras Ultratravel experts select the hottest cocktail dresses, explorers
watches, light gadgets, and the pick from a glittering Parisian jewellery show
30 Up Front John Simpson on the most charming people in the world: the Iranians
33 Mr & Mrs Celia Walden and Piers Morgan live out their fantasies at Htel Byblos
101 Intelligence Ferruccio Ferragamos Tuscan hideaway, a masterclass in caviar,
the hottest hotel app, and arts and crafts splendour in the Cotswolds
106 Travelling life Actress Naomie Harris on her love of family beach holidays,
Australian boutique hotels, and Italian and Jamaican food

26

PAGE
GUIDE

ULTRA
EXPERIENCES

with Abercrombie & Kent

Life and soul To see a truly great festival,

you have to go India. Ultratravel picks the best
ones to visit, while photographer Don McCullin
and historian William Dalrymple reect on
what makes an Indian celebration tick
z Top that Machu Picchu in Peru is
an unforgettable sight, especially if, like
Adrian Bridge, you wake up to it in the morning
z Feline attraction Why do big cats in
the wild hold such a special fascination, and
where are the best places to see them?
Richard Madden talks to ve experts on lion,
cheetah, tiger, leopard and jaguar
z Win a trip to Myanmar Go on a new river
cruise, courtesy of Sanctuary and Qatar Airways

Telegraph Media Group Limited 2013. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited.
Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited

LCKI8KI8M<C 

T R AV E L
INSPIR AT ION
A little inspiration can go a long way and our Personal Travel Experts have been around the globe
and are bursting at the seams to tell you about this funky new hotel thats just opened up, this
little restaurant tucked down the back streets that does the most authentic cuisine and must-do
experiences that will make this the holiday that youll always remember.
We have won over 170 awards for our holidays and service. Talk to us today to nd out why.

Find your nearest store and book an

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Visit www.kuoni.co.uk for inspiration and to

connect with your local destination expert.

EDITORS LETTER

THE BALEARICS TAKES SOME BEATING

t was the summer of 1995. The year that Nelson Mandela donned the famous Springbok
rugby jersey at the World Cup in South Africa, OJ Simpson was found not guilty in
America and Aung San Suu Kyi was freed from house arrest in Myanmar. I had opted
for the delights of Magaluf for my rst holiday with friends. As we found our seafront
apartment, I remember wincing at the Union Jack-festooned balconies, the pie-andmash pubs and the Sambuca-fuelled bar crawls. But I was a teenager and relishing this
new-found freedom. Fast forward a few hours and I stepped out of a bar midway down
Magalufs now infamous strip and was suddenly surrounded. Beneath the neon lights
I caught a glimpse of the purple shirts of Aston Villa or was it West Ham? I had no time

to check as the blows started raining down. I woke up in the gutter a few hours later beaten,
bloody and bruised. My wallet, watch and sunglasses were gone even the shirt on my back.
To cap it all one of my eyebrows had been shaved off a fact I would not discover until I
looked in the mirror the next morning. There were to be no holiday romances on that trip.
If someone had told me then that Majorca would feature in the pages of Europes most
widely-read luxury travel magazine I would have laughed. But the fact is that, a decade on,
there are few better bets for September sun than the Balearic Islands. Not only because at
this time of the year the nightclubs have closed, the children have gone back to school and
the sea is at its warmest, but also because a raft of sleek villas and hotels has transformed
the islands. Combine that with Michelin-star restaurants, Philippe Starck-designed marinas,
and swanky beach clubs, and my experience of Magaluf seems a distant memory.
In this issue we bring you news of Vietnams emergence at travels top table, of how you
can scale the heights at Machu Picchu in style, watch the greatest horse races on earth and
High style White jumpsuit,

discover the otherworldliness of Indonesias Komodo Islands. Add to that a journey around

1,550, by Roland Mouret

(rolandmouret.com).

Indias nest festivals with Don McCullin and William Dalrymple and a glimpse into leading

Sunglasses, 475, by Linda

wildlife experts own big cat diaries as part of a 26-page special with those ne folk at

Farrow (lindafarrow.com)

Abercrombie & Kent and you have an Autumn travel issue that takes some beating.

Bronze cuff, 755, by

Annelise Michelson
(annelisemichelson.com)

Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

Photographer Joe Plimmer

Shot on the rooftop of Cap Rocat,
Majorca. Helicopter from Sloane
Mallorca (sloanemallorca.com)

FOR THE
LATEST IN
LUXURY TRAVEL
telegraph.co.uk/
luxurytravel

William Dalrymple
Writing about his Jaipur
Literature Festival, the
Woodstock of the book
world, the prolic writer
and historian muses about
its many highlights,
including an abnormally
large number of beautiful
women.

E. Jane Dickson
What surprised this
Londoner about Vietnam
(page 54), was the sense
of a society on fastforward. I knew it would be
beautiful, but I wasnt
expecting full-on, ve star
glamour and fabulous,
new-wave cuisine.

Don McCullin
After years photographing
wars, capturing the beauty
of India, which we feature
in our Festivals special, is
tremendously healing
says the great Indiaphile.
Even in the middle of
nowhere, people nd time
for incredible kindness.

Paul Slater
The RCA-trained painter
has been illustrating
stories for more than 35
years. His latest, for our
hotel feature on page 47,
will be one of the most
recent at his retrospective
on September 27 at the
1830 gallery in Halifax.

Naomie Harris
The Cambridge-educated
British actress whom,
she admits, is the worst
packer in the world
spends her life traversing
the globe making lms,
from epic James Bond
thrillers to the biopic
of Nelson Mandela.
The one suitcase she
never checks in, though,
is a hand-made, Italian
leather bag by Moncrief.
Its way too precious.

ultratravel

Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Deputy editor Lisa Grainger
Designer Alex McFadyen Sub-editor Kate Quill Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John OCeallaigh
Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore
Advertising inquiries Nick Perry (07768 106322) Andrew Wiltshire (020 7931 3239)
Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel

LCKI8KI8M<C 

Bossa Nova Coming Soon

THE ORIGINAL THE LUGGAGE WITH THE GROOVES

BOSSA NOVA travel in style and do good
Out of solidarity with Brazil, this extraordinary range is only being manufactured in the Brazilian factory. And there
is another special feature: RIMOWA is donating a proportion of the sales proceeds to the organization Sade e
Alegria, in order to support projects in the Amazon region.
www.rimowa.com

www.saudeealegria.org.bra

the
NEXT
BIG
THING
BY JOHN OCEALLAIGH

z MARINE MARVELS

Whats coming up in luxury travel, from eye-opening superyacht designs and trips to the moon to the science of sleep

f there is a luxury-travel hierarchy, then chartering a superyacht

customised vessel could contain different facilities, serving perhaps

New waves Top: Blohm+Voss

easily comes out on top for extravagance. This month, for

as a floating garden or beach.

and Zaha Hadid have designed

example, you could choose between spending a week aboard

a yacht enclosed in a mesh-like

the 250ft Reborn for 390,000 (through luxury yacht charter

superyacht modelled on an unexpected source: Lego. The versatility

skeleton. Above left: the

company Edmiston) or, say, buying a house.

of the toy bricks inspired the emerging architect to conceive a

X R-Evolution will have

With so much revenue at stake, shipbuilders and designers

modular structure with each floor stacked upon the other like

separate vessels that could be

building blocks.

deployed to serve as floating

are putting plans in place to ensure the worlds richest continue to

employ them in the years to come. To that end, Pastrovich Studio,

 LCKI8KI8M<C

Glass, a design proposal by Lujac Desautel, is a similarly cuboid

Not to be outdone, the established shipbuilder Blohm+Voss has

gardens or sundecks.

a Monaco-based yacht designer, has unveiled its plans for

partnered with Zaha Hadid to revise its approach to superyachts.

Above: Lujac Desautels

a superyacht that should attract astonished glances wherever it

Her initial design, a 420ft mothership enmeshed in a lattice-like

intriguing Glass superyacht

goes. Ensuring absolute privacy, the 250ft X R-Evolution will hold

exoskeleton, forms the basis for five distinct 295ft Unique Circle

design, inspired by Lego

a number of vessels that could be deployed should those chartering

Yachts. Each can be tailored to future buyers tastes, but Hadids

the yacht want to be separated from the crew, their guests or, as

unmistakable, sinuous framework will ensure her footprint remains

the firms publicity material suggests, their children. Each

whatever finessed form they ultimately take.

Tods Boutiques: Tel. 020.74932237 - 020.72351321

the
NEXT
BIG
THING
z PRIVATE MISSION
While Virgin Galactic staggers towards its inaugural flight, Space
Adventures is quietly getting on with business. The only company to
have sent private individuals into space seven people since 2001 it is
now preparing to launch the worlds first private mission to the moon.
In 2018, two paying passengers and a Russian cosmonaut will travel
around the moon and back, flying within 62 miles of its surface and
witnessing Earth rise over the horizon. It will be the first time humans
have travelled beyond low-Earth orbit in more than 40 years.
Space Adventures has yet to confirm the price of this package but it
will, of course, be expensive previous trips have cost tens of millions
of pounds (spaceadventures.com).

ONtrend

THE HOTEL SLEEP DOCTOR

t now seems de rigueur for luxury

hotel rooms to hold enough electronica
to launch a tech start-up, but if guests

dont get a decent nights sleep then their

stay has been a failure and those expensive
accoutrements count for nothing.
The Corinthia Hotel in London is

z ANIMAL HOUSE

requirement. Its recently launched

Is the traditional zoo under threat of extinction?

Sumptuous Sleep Retreat was developed in

Givskud Zoo in Denmark and the Danish architects Big

collaboration with the renowned sleep

have unveiled their plans to develop Zootopia, a new

expert Dr Guy Meadows, and takes a holistic

kind of zoo that addresses concerns about animals

approach to sleeping soundly. A sleep

being kept in cramped environments.

menu features restorative dishes rich in

They intend to keep visitors, rather than animals,

z ULTIMATE BOYS TOY: THE MILLION-POUND SUB

An unexpected adventure awaits at Laucala Island in Fiji. Beginning this month,
guests at the luxury resort can explore the surrounding seascapes in a DeepFlight
Super Falcon Mark II. The 21ft-long, electricity-powered vessel glides through
water silently and ecologically and is among the most advanced submersibles on the
market today as one might assume given its 1million price tag. For less
intrepid guests theres always the islands 18-hole championship golf course or the
organic spa, where treatment ingredients are grown and pressed on site.

ensuring it meets this fundamental

tryptophan an amino acid that forms the

penned in, enclosed in a central plaza that is encircled

sleep hormone melatonin and its spa

by wildlife-rich biospheres. To explore these

offers sleep-inducing treatments that go a

surrounding environments, guests will enter small

step beyond the expected. Polarity balance

motorised, mirrored globes that can sail on water or

bodywork, for example, counteracts the

be attached to ski lifts. The result will be an ostensibly

negative effects of constant mobile phone

barrier-free terrain where animals have greater

or computer use. At night, guests sink into

freedom to roam and disturbance from man is kept

handmade Hypnos mattresses.

to a minimum (givskudzoo.dk).

The Savoy in London takes its beds

seriously, too. The most sensitive sleepers
should stay in one of the 38 rooms with
Savoir beds. Each bed is handcrafted in
Britain; their mattresses are stuffed with
Latin American horse tail, lambswool or,
in the Savoys Royal Suite, Mongolian
cashmere. Guests can buy their own
Savoir bed through the hotel, with prices
from 10,800.
Customers of Four Seasons Hotels
and Resorts are also set for a comfortable

z NEW HOTELS

a new range of mattress toppers that

Located in the newly developed Zorlu

prohibition of the sale of alcohol.

change the beds levels of firmness. Guests

Cape Weligama, which opens near

preferences will be recorded so they can

hotel features the citys biggest spa and

Galle in Sri Lanka in October, will be

expect the same level of comfort next time

its staff includes a dedicated art

similarly laid-back. Many of the 40

they stay in a Four Seasons hotel.

concierge who will offer insider

clifftop villas will have Indian Ocean

Those who still suffer from fitful sleep

information about the ever-changing

views, with butler and in-room spa

might find solace in the Alpine village of

local cultural scene.

services available.

Leogang in Austria. The simple but chic

Also opening in September, but in a

From November, guests will be able to

Forsthofalm hotel is made almost entirely

far less frenetic setting, is Anantaras

combine their visit with a stay at Sujn

of moon timber wood that is felled

Banana Island Resort in Doha. It

Rajmahal Palace in Jaipur, Indias pink

between November and January, when

makes an instant impression guests

city. This former royal residence, which

trees do not produce sap. The hotel cites

reach it by yacht or helicopter. Balmy

stands in large landscaped gardens, still

medical evidence that shows resting in an

days lounging in the expansive spa or

has plenty of original features; the 20-

all-wood environment slows the heart rate

swimming in the 330ft pool should do

bedroom hotel also has two restaurants.

and induces deep and relaxing sleep.

ILLUSTRATION BY ROBERT SHADBOLT; MOKA STUDIO; NASA; DEEPFLIGHT; ALAMY

the body good, as will the islands

Center, a retail and commercial zone, the

 LCKI8KI8M<C

nights sleep. The company has launched

Raffles opens in Istanbul this month.

S tyle.E levated.
The original Grand Hotel has been delighting her guests since 1865. She exudes a timeless elegance,
blending a sense of the past with the style of today. She is a legendary hostess that captivates your senses
with her engaging fnesse that bears the hallmarks of a rich heritage that spans three centuries.
She will conjure memories that will be talked of for time to come.

Discover The Langham, London: langhamlondon.com

1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7965 0191

ULTRA fashion

Exotic territory
Designers this season have
taken inspiration from tribal
embellishments around the world,
decorating pieces with ethnic
embroidery, neon tassels and bold
local prints. These trans-continental
creations will fit in whichever part
of the world youre in. Pack a fabulous
but functional shift for day (right),
and a dazzling cocktail dress with a
simple clutch for evening (overleaf).
Then go forth and sparkle
Arabella Boyce

Knee-length dress in
burgundy wool crepe
with sequin embellishments,
1,790, Peter Pilotto
(00800 7895 3267; stylebop.com)
Antigona small bag in
oxblood-red grained leather,
from 1,190, Givenchy by
Riccardo Tisci (givenchy.com).
Sunglasses, 175, Markus
Lupfer at Linda Farrow
(020 7499 6336; lindafarrow.com).
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JOE PLIMMER

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ULTRA fashion

Dress in silk with sequin

embellishment, 9,720, Mary
Katrantzou (020 3393 3021;
marykatrantzou.com).
Wing earrings in 18-carat rose
gold, mother of pearl and
diamonds, 13,275, Noor Fares
(0330 022 5701; net-a-porter.com).
Intrecciato clutch in knotted
snakeskin and satin, 1,070,
Bottega Veneta (020 7838 9394;
bottegaveneta.com).
Aztec pony sandal in fuschia,
395, Sophia Webster

STYLISTS ASSISTANT: FREDERICA LOVELL-PANK; MODEL: MARIA@CHARACTER MODELS; HAIR AND MAKE UP: TINE@CHARACTER MODELS

(sophiawebster.co.uk).

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ULTRA watches
1 The case of the new Geophysic watch
measures 38.5mm in diameter (slightly larger
than the 35mm of the original), making it

2 The simple, uncluttered dial of the

more appealing to contemporary tastes.

watch makes it easily readable in

It still features an inner core of soft iron

difficult weather conditions. A highly

to provide the movement with a high level

luminous coating on the hands and

of protection from magnetism.

on the dots beside each hour marker

also makes it legible in gloomy
surroundings and even under water.

3 Although the original watch

contained Jaeger-LeCoultres
military-specification, hand-wound
478B movement, the new version
contains the brands in-house
Calibre 898/1 mechanism, which
is self-winding. It features
a stop seconds function that
allows exact time setting..

Lets get geophysical

4 The back is screwed down

tightly to ensure it remains
watertight to a depth of 328ft.
The original watch was supplied
to various scientists, including
those aboard the atomic

5 Every Geophysic watch must

submarine USS Nautilus, which

pass its 1,000 hours control

on August 1 1958 went beneath

tests, during which the cased

the North Pole. A globe design

movements are tested

engraved on the back recalls

continuously for a period of six

that of the original 1958 model.

weeks to ensure they remain

accurate in different positions,
at different temperatures, at
various degrees of atmospheric
pressure and shock levels, and
under extremes of magnetism.

The International Geophysical Year of 1958 saw 67

nations set aside their Cold War differences to do experiments
all over the globe in geophysiological fields from glaciology
to solar activity. The same year, the Swiss watchmaker
Jaeger-LeCoultre made its Geophysic watch, designed to be
one of the toughest timepieces on the market, its hand-wound
movements protected from magnetic fields by an inner-case
of soft iron. A limited edition of 800 of this collectors classic
have just been reissued, this time using 21st-century materials
and engineering that make them even more exploration
ready than the 1958 version
Simon de Burton

Geophysic Chronometer, 6,350 (steel); 13,900 (red gold); 21,700 (platinum), Jaeger-LeCoultre (020 7491 6970; jaeger-lecoultre.com)

THREE MORE WATCHES FOR EXPLORERS

Rolex Explorer, 4,300 (020 7493 2716; rolex.com)

Victorinox Inox, 329

Zenith El Primero

When Sir Edmund Hillary became the first person

(020 7647 9070;

Stratos Flyback Tribute to

to reach the summit of Mount Everest on May 29 1953,

victorinoxwatches.com)

Felix Baumgartner, 6,100

he was wearing a Rolex Oyster wrist-watch. To mark

Victorinox marks 25 years

(zenith-watches.com)

the achievement, Rolex launched the Reference 6350,

in the watch business with

Two years ago the Austrian

the first watch to carry the name Explorer on the dial.

the Inox a truly tough

daredevil Felix Baumgartner

The Explorer has been a Rolex stalwart ever since.

timepiece. Prototypes have

jumped from a balloon at

allegedly survived being run

a height of 128,000ft and

over by tanks, falling on to

reached the record speed

concrete from a great height

for a free-falling human of

and being left in sandstorms.

834mph, before parachuting

The quartz-powered watch

to safety in the New Mexico

is also waterproof down to

desert. Strapped around

656ft, capable of operating

his safety suit was a Zenith

in temperatures from -51C

El Primero Stratos

to 71C and is damage-

chronograph; this stainless

resistant to most regular

steel model is the latest

solvents and chemicals.

Baumgartner edition.

 LCKI8KI8M<C

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ULTRA jewels
Dior Victoire de Castellane always shines
at the Biennale with her fantastical creations.
Here she reinterprets Christian Diors Fifties
cinched-waist Bar jacket as a white-gold bracelet
with diamonds, pink sapphires, emeralds,
garnets, sapphires, garnets and spinels.
POA (020 7172 0172; dior.com).

City of dazzling light

Alexandre Reza Born in Moscow in 1922,

Alexandre Reza grew up in Paris and in 1940 took

There is never a bad time to go to Paris but this

coming week will be particularly rewarding for jewellery
lovers; the citys Grand Palais is hosting the Biennale
Des Antiquaires exhibition of collectibles. The show will
include designs from 14 of the worlds finest jewellers,
from Parisian favourites to such international stars as
Alexandre Reza. Yes, we will always have Paris, but
just not in such sparkling form

over the familys precious-stone business, which

his son Oliver now runs. The familys bold, opulent
pieces include these Farandole earrings in pink
gold with 18 spinels and brilliant-cut diamonds.
POA (00331 4261 5121; alexandrereza.com).

Caragh McKay

Piaget Having developed gold-working

techniques for its watches, in the Fifties
the Swiss watchmaker expanded into the
realms of fine jewellery. By the Seventies,
it had become a firm favourite of the jet set:
a period it revisits here with this 18-carat pinkgold necklace with diamonds and turquoise
beads. POA (020 3364 0800; piaget.co.uk).

Boucheron Since it became

the first jewellery house to open
in the Place Vendme in 1893,

Wallace Chan The Hong Kong

Boucheron has been enticing

designer trained initially as

maharajahs, Russian princes and

a sculptor, and his jewels are

Egyptian princesses through its

extraordinarily exotic creations

doors. Today, the workshop still

that showcase what fine jewellers

turns seemingly impossible ideas

can achieve today. Although this

into beautiful realities, such as

Gleams of Waves shoulder

this white-gold, diamond, mother-

brooch, with yellow diamonds,

of-pearl and sapphire water-lily

rubies and pink sapphires, is

ring. POA (020 7514 9170;

somewhat large (4in x 7in),

boucheron.com).

it is made of titanium and

is wondrously light to wear.
POA (00852 2523 2788;
wallace-chan.com).

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ULTRA tech

Mark Wilson, Ultratravels gear and gadgets guru, chooses the most innovative compact kit for travellers

5
8

SMALL WONDERS
1 Earin earphones 79 (earin.se). These wireless ear buds, which weigh just 5g each, work with any Bluetooth smartphone or audio device and come in a recharging capsule. 2 Senz Smart S Windproof Folding
Umbrella 25/about 20 (0031 15 285 5022; senzumbrellas.com). This foldable version of Senzs aerodynamic umbrella can withstand 35mph winds without turning inside out, and measures 23.5in when folded.
3 PonoPlayer music player $399/about 235 (ponomusic.com). The Pono designed by musician Neil Young to improve the sound quality of digital music has enough storage for 5,000 uncompressed songs
downloaded from the PonoMusic store. 4 Mod from $250 (mod.thisisground.com). This ingenious leather organiser can be adapted with optional pockets and tags that snap into its magnetic spine. The various holders
can carry charging cables, phones and small tablet computers. 5 Leica T 1,350, body only (0207 629 1351; uk.leica-camera.com). Leicas first compact system camera has a 3.2in touchscreen, a 16.3MP sensor and
16GB of memory. 6 Persol PO 714 SM 240 (persol.com/uk). These folding sunglasses, made famous by Steve McQueen in the late Sixties, have been reissued in three colours; the light Havana frame features the
classic blue lenses. 7 Nokia Treasure Tag 30 (nokia.com). Attach this fob to important items such as keys or luggage, and it will notify your Windows, iOS or Android phone when youve left them behind.
8 Brooks Dalston Knapsack Medium 175 (0121 565 2992; brooksengland.com). This attractive waterproof bag has a sleeve for a 15in laptop, plus three inner pockets, two external pockets and a bottle pouch.

 LCKI8KI8M<C

An exclusive

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AFICIONADO

DAVID LINLEY FURNITURE DESIGNER

Horse-riding in Argentina and Russia, driving an Aston Martin through Italy, and New York libraries all inspire the royal adventurer

fter leaving Bedales school, David

Linley had no doubt about his
future career: he wanted to craft
wood. Having studied at Parnham
House under the tutelage of John

Makepeace, he began his eponymous business

in 1985 with the aim, he says, of designing and
manufacturing furniture of the highest quality. Today,
the Queens nephew is one of the worlds most
sought-after cabinet-makers, whose clients, such as
Oprah Winfrey, Ralph Lauren and David Tang, turn to
him for games tables, jewellery boxes and interiors
for private yachts and jets.
Travel, he says, is in his blood; the car and
motorcycle fan has driven himself around much of
the world, sometimes in his father, Lord Snowdons
Aston Martin, and he has ridden horses and fished
in some of the worlds most remote places. In 2011,
he sold a majority shareholding of Linley (davidlinley.
com), although he remains chairman; he is also
chairman of Christies UK. The designer lives between
London, Gloucestershire and France with his wife
Serena, a sculptor, and their two teenage children.
His latest project is to make wine cases for Penfolds
winery (penfolds.com).
Interview by Lisa Grainger

Some of my most memorable meals

have been the simplest: like those
in a little wooden hut up a mountain that
overlooks the whole of the Luberon
in France. At the top, you can

Ive driven round the world, but

one of the most fun trips was with
my sister in my fathers Aston
Martin (left), driving north from
Rome through the Mont Blanc Tunnel.
The motorbike trips I do every year in
north Normandy with some male friends
are also memorable, mainly because
it is almost always raining and
a bike always breaks down.

The best meat I ever ate was in Argentina.

I rode horses with an old school friend across
the deserts and forests there, carrying a side
of a cow that we would cut up and cook on
the campfire at night. We also had rods tied
on to the horses so we could fish.

For classical architecture,

Venice, Rome and Florence
are unbeatable, but for
Modernist architecture,
you have to go to Chicago.
Frank Lloyd Wrights house

watch the sunset to the clanking

(left) is particularly amazing

of goats bells and a rather

because he designed

heady goaty smell before settling

everything in it, from the

down to a rustic dinner.

building to the furniture.

The wildest place Ive ever been
was Tuva in Russia. We arrived
by military helicopter and were
there, in theory, to catch
enormous fish using rats on the

EDDIE MULHOLLAND; THE MORGAN LIBRARY & MUSEUM; ALAMY; GETTY

end of a line. We didnt fish in the

end, but instead rode out on
horses, looking for bears in

Often the most wonderful gems in cities are hidden away,

such as the Morgan Library (themorgan.org) in New York.
I was there recently and found some incredibly beautiful
5,000-year-old seals (below) from Mesopotamia.
I could imagine their designs inlaid on boxes.

a landscape that felt prehistoric:

glacier-blue water flowing out of
cliffs past cauldrons of fire in the
earth that had been burning for
thousands of years. Extraordinary.
It was pretty chilly, though.
Unless you wore thick down
One of the simplest places in which Ive stayed was a ryokan (above) in

over-trousers, your legs froze.

Hakone at the foot of Mount Fuji, whose walls were made of rice paper
and whose beds were mats. Totally uncomplicated unlike the
fiendishly difficult puzzle boxes made by the local craftsmen nearby.

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ll right, so Im a travel extremist

when it comes to holidays. Dont
come to me with your tales
of fortnights in Dubai or the Maldives:
its Afghanistan and Papua New Guinea
that Im interested in. The first thing I
think of, when I hear of trouble in Egypt,
is the Valley of the Kings emptying out
and being able at long last to get a decent
look at Tutankhamens belongings.
This being the case, though, please
dont simply disregard the country I want
to suggest to you for a strenuous but
immensely rewarding holiday: Iran. OK,
now youre thinking of seething crowds of
angry men and black-wrapped women
screaming Death to whoever it is this
week. Stonings. Glowering ayatollahs.
These things exist, just as the danger of
being hijacked in South Africa exists, or
being randomly shot in America. But they
arent the norm. Theyre just what people
like me put in our news reports.
So lets start again, with a clean sheet.
Think of a country, largely cut off from the
outside world, with a lovely dry climate,
sophisticated and charming people, superb
archaeological monuments, mountains,
deserts, the Caspian Sea. If recent history
had been different, it would be the India
of the travel business, only without the
beggars and the chaos. Iran is, quite
simply, the most charming country I know.
Until recently, it has been a complete
secret. But in the past year or so it has
opened up a little. Ive started reading
patronising little mentions of it in travel
editors diaries. A few discerning people
are coming back quite starry-eyed from

 LCKI8KI8M<C

JOHN SIMPSON
UP FRONT

In Tehran, you
will encounter
a genuine delight
to see you:
a distinctly oldfashioned affection
for westerners,
who have
vanished from
everyday life

their visits there. Of course, theres

a definite delight in shocking the
neighbours, who have only been to Bali.
But after the general intake of breath at
the drinks party, yours will be a genuinely
fascinating story.
What always strikes me in Iran is the
normality of it. If you wandered down the
street in Tehran say Dr Fatemi Avenue,
where the old and much-loved hotel, the
Laleh, stands you would find it
suspended between West and East,
between the modern and something
altogether older and more attractive: the
Persian past. This is not Saudi Arabia:
women drive cars, run businesses and
often forget to cover their hair as theyre
supposed to do. The systems of control
exist, but theyre usually discreet. A
westerner wouldnt come into contact with
the nastier side of Iranian coercion, as long
as he or she behaved and dressed sensibly.
What you would encounter is a genuine
delight to see you: a distinctly oldfashioned affection for westerners, who
have vanished from everyday life in Iran.
Eating in a Tehran restaurant can
sometimes be a trial: so many people want
to greet you and indeed pay for your meal.
I first became aware of this affection in
the Eighties, when I ventured out to cover
an anti-British demonstration in the city.
I was a lot younger then, and accompanied
by a charming, fatherly cameraman.
The crowd pushed and shoved, and
shouted Marg bar Tacher death to
Thatcher. I asked the cameraman to stand
on a low wall and film me as I walked
through the angry demonstrators. I really

dont think you should do this, John, he

said, with a troubled look at the mob. But
Id seen it done before, by an American
correspondent. I weaved my way through
the crowd, smiling and explaining that
I was a Brit, and they opened up a pathway
for me, shaking hands and bowing.
I finally reached the ringmaster,
a professional demonstrator who was
beating his chest, the spittle shooting from
his mouth in his anti-British fervour.
Welcome, welcome to Iran, sir, he said,
and actually kissed my hand. It went down
well on the news that night, I promise you.
All right, youre saying, that was
decades ago. But, you see, Iran has been
cut off from the West for so long since then
that the longing for contact with westerners
has actually grown. If you spend an
evening wandering round Isfahan, the
incomparable city of Shah Abbas on the
Zayandeh River, with the distant foothills
of the Zagros purple in the fading light,
your main problem will be saying no to the
kindly people picnicking in the parks and
gardens who beg you to join them.
Esfahan nesf-e jahan the Persians
say. Isfahan is half of the world. And
when youre there, perhaps drinking
a little glass of tea in the courtyard of the
Abbasi Hotel, I think you might agree its
the finer half. Youre probably thinking
Ive been paid by the Iran Tourism Board
(if such a thing exists) for saying this.
Persians, with their habitual joy in
conspiracy theories, certainly would. But
Ive been banned from Iran for five years
now, and dont know if Ill ever be allowed
back. Believe me, the loss is mine.

JASON FORD; MARTIN POPE

Iran, our globetrotter says, is the most charming country on earth, with kind, sophisticated people. Its just a pity he cant go back

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THE
STORIES
BEGIN
HERE

NEW YORK
CHICAGO
GRAND WAILEA
THE BOULDERS
DUBAI
ARIZONA BILTMORE
BERLIN
JERUSALEM
PUERTO RICO
SHANGHAI
AMSTERDAM
BEIJING
ORLANDO
ROME CAVALIERI
JEDDAH
KEY WEST
PARK CITY
PANAMA
BOCA RATON
EDINBURGH
RAS AL KHAIMAH
LA QUINTA RESORT & CLUB
TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES
THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS

WA L D O R FASTO R I A .CO M / T H E STO R I E S

MR&MRS MORGAN
While he is happiest chewing the fat in Saint-Tropez, she derives her pleasures from decadent daydreams on the Htel Byblos yacht

ANDREW CROWLEY; DAN GOLDSMITH/SCOPE FEATURES

HE SAYS

sometimes wish Id married Brigitte Bardot. Whats

not to love about a woman who said: I am greatly
misunderstood by politically correct idiots and They
may call me a sinner, but I am at peace with myself?
But then I recalled her withering assessment of the finer
things in life: I absolutely loathe luxury; its the one thing
I cannot stand. And I realised it would never have worked
(well, that and the fact she hates men and lives with 300 dogs).
Because I absolutely love luxury. And for me, Htel Byblos in
Saint-Tropez is a towering monument to the fantastical
excess that I crave.
Ironically, it was built for Bardot. Jean-Prosper Gay-Para,
a Lebanese billionaire, was infatuated with the screen goddess
and resolved to create a palace worthy of her name in the
town she made famous. Bardot put aside her aversion to
luxury to attend the launch in 1967 and a legend was born.
Byblos is an exotic cluster of buildings resembling a
Mediterranean fishing village. The 94 rooms are of varying
degrees of sumptuousness, the best of which overlook the
glamorous pool scene, where your wealth appears to be
directly connected to the size of your female companions
heels. Its here that celebrities, models, tycoons and playboys
mingle in the very epicentre of Riviera jet-set life.
Christophe Chauvin, the elegant and attentive gentleman
who runs Byblos, understands its the little details that make
all the difference. When I booked lunch at Le Club 55, the
iconic beachside restaurant three miles away, he looked
appalled when I suggested getting there by taxi. You
must take our yacht, Mr Morgan, he declared.
Your yacht? I repeated, slowly.
Yes, Algandra. It is very nice.
I took his word for it, and an hour later, we boarded a 65ft,
34-knot ocean vessel so gorgeously sleek that Celia emitted
an involuntary squeal of joy. We sailed round to Le Club 55.
And then sailed back again after lashings of ros and moules
marinire. Christophe was right it is the only way to travel.
That night, we dined in Rivea, the hotels new Alain
Ducasse restaurant. It was an assault on the senses so
insanely gratifying that my body began to spasm with
pleasure. My favourite of the endless little dishes that arrived
was a sliced white substance that looked like pure fat.
Yes, sir, confirmed the waitress. It is lard.
Celia recoiled in horror. I sighed with delight. Id finally
found my gastronomic utopia.
As we stumbled back up past the entrance to the Byblos
nightclub Les Caves de Roy, my eyes alighted on the drinks
menu thoughtfully displayed by the door. A Methuselah
(equivalent to eight bottles) of vintage Dom Perignon was
150,000. Perhaps Bardot was right. Luxury is loathsome
when you cant afford it.

I
Yes, sir, it is lard,
confirmed the waitress.
Celia recoiled in horror.
I sighed with delight.
Id finally found my
gastronomic utopia -PIERS

Piers Morgan and Celia Walden were guests

of Htel Byblos, Saint-Tropez (above). A double room
starts at 340 per night, based on two sharing
(0033 4 9456 6800; byblos.com).

SHE SAYS

ts at moments like this that I wonder if there is such

a thing as too much pleasure. Im lying on a large
expanse of macchiato-coloured towelling on the back
of the Htel Bybloss yacht, the Algandra (left), watching
the faded ochre buildings around the port recede into the
distance. Just visible on the west bank is Brigitte Bardots
waterside home, shaded beneath poplar trees.
The Algandra picks up speed and two perfect frills
of glittering surf mark our path in the otherwise still
Mediterranean and as the lazy, trance-inducing first few
bars of Francis Lais Un Homme et Une Femme start up,
I feel a deep nostalgia for times Ive never lived through,
experiences Ive never had. What in Gods name are you
doing with your left hand? foghorns my husband, shattering
my daydreams. We both turn to stare at the offending body
part. Caught in the volupt of our surroundings, my hand
has been stroking the boats lacquered wooden console
rather sensuously. Hazily, I decide that there is such
a thing as too much pleasure.
Saint-Tropez and the Byblos in particular have a special
place in my heart. When I visited the worlds most
ostentatious fishing village as a teen, I remember being told
off by the car valets outside the Byblos as my best friend and
I took pictures of one another leaning against the Maseratis
and Lamborghinis parked there. I remember us daring each
other to walk through the hallowed arch of the legendary
hotels entrance to catch a glimpse of the Speedo-clad
playboys and lithe-limbed supermodels by the pool.
And I remember being shown the exit by a staff member who
doubtless mistook us in our Pretty Woman-inspired Topshop
micro-skirts for working girls. It wasnt until I was married
and pregnant that I finally became a bona fide guest.
This time, however, feels different. Lounging on the
hotels preposterously luxurious yacht, fresh from my
Phyto-Svelt Global body treatment at the Byblos spa, at last
I feel like I belong. Is it ros oclock, yet? I murmur to Piers,
whos still yapping away behind me. He stops for a brief
moment to inform me that its 11.30am, and theres a burst
of laughter from the crew as he makes some joke about
having married Grard Depardieu. Dont worry well get
you a Methuselah at Club 55 if you can hold out for half
an hour, he chuckles.
As it turns out, two bottles of iced Chteau Minuty,
followed by a fine burgundy at the hotels Alain Ducasse
restaurant that night just about hit the spot. Of course, I could
still have followed up the days drinking with a Methuselah
chaser at Les Caves du Roy, but having glanced and
blanched at the drinks menu by the door on our way home,
Piers muttered something about having eaten too much lard
and went straight to bed.

LCKI8KI8M<C 

THE ULTRATRAVEL GUIDE

CASTLES IN THE SAND

Once the Balearics were just places for bargain breaks. Today, says Annie Bennett, Spains golden isles are
among Europes most glamorous holiday hotspots, with Michelin-starred restaurants, superyacht marinas and
glorious places to stay. Ultratravel checks into eight of the nest pads, from high-tech villas to converted citadels

Golden hour The courtyard

of the Cap Rocat hotel,
converted in 2010 from
a cannon-bedecked fort into
a calm Majorcan hotel

 LCKI8KI8M<C

decade ago, the Balearics were best known for the relentless
beat of their clubs. But thats history. Today, the Spanish islands
throng with well-heeled travellers, many with second homes,
others flitting in to take advantage of the long hours of sunshine
and numerous hip hotels, sleek villas and world-class
restaurants. In the past few years, several of the worlds five-star

hotel chains have invested in Balearic properties most recently Meli Hotels,
which recently opened ME Mallorca and ME Ibiza. The worlds most expensive
set-price meal was just launched in Ibiza (1,500, or 1,190 a head, concocted
by Michelin-starred Paco Roncero). The property market has never been more
active, with a quarter of Spanish property sales last year taking place in the
Balearics a third costing more than 5 million and prices achieved for villa
rentals have reached record highs, some reaching more than 100,000 a month.
To cope with increasingly wealthy visitors, berths in marinas have been
enlarged more than half at Marina Ibiza now accommodate boats of more
than 65ft, and there is space for 300ft vessels and marinas such as Port
Adriano have been redesigned by starry names such as Philippe Starck. Hotels
have also added to their services a range of super-luxe transportation; guests
at the ME hotel in Ibiza, for instance, can be flown there by private jet, as can
guests at the Jumeirah Port Soller, from London, Dubai or Moscow.
The islands, as one resident put it, are the new Cte dAzur, but with more
variety, more privacy and more fun. Autumn, when the party crowd has left,
school holidays are over and waters are still warm, is a blissful time to visit.
But with such choice, where to stay? Here, we select a few of our favourites.

LCKI8KI8M<C 

R A V E L W I T H U S TO T H E W O R L D S M O S T
E X OT I C D E S T I N AT I O N S

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To nd out more and to see our full range of tours, please call us for our brand new brochure.

THE WONDERS OF INDOCHINA

Explore the bustling streets of Hanoi
Cruise on the stunning World-Heritage
listed Ha Long Bay Visit Saigon and
the Chu Chi Tunnels Enjoy a 7 night
cruise along the Mekong Visit the
Silver Pagoda in Phnom Penh Watch
the sun rise over Angkor Wat.
Prices from 9,055pp twin share.

CAPE TOWN TO PETRA

Watch Africa unfold before your eyes
on Rovos Rail between Cape Town and
Pretoria Visit the impressive Victoria
Falls Go on Safari amidst the teeming
wildlife of the Masai Mara Visit the
ultra-modern city of Doha Explore the
ancient site of Petra, the rose-red city.
Prices from 16,085pp twin share.

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LEGENDS OF THE ANDES

Explore Santiago, the Chilean capital
city Discover Ecuadors historic
capital, Quito See the magnicent
Cotopaxi Volcano Ride the gravity
defying Devils Nose Railway Enjoy a
cruise on Lake Titicaca, the highest
navigable lake in the world.
Prices from 10,635pp twin share.

BURMA: A STEP BACK IN TIME

Experience the magic of Mandalay
Discover the incomparable city of
Bagan with its 2,000 temples Visit the
monastery of Mt Popa built atop an
extinct volcano Cruise the Irrawaddy
and see the legendary leg-rowing
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Prices from 11,830pp twin share.

C A P TA I N S C H O I C E . C O. U K

SIMPLY THE FINEST WAY TO SEE THE WORLD

The historic hotel

CAP ROCAT Majorca

t must have been quite a feat to dig a fortress into

a cliff in the 19th century. In 2010, it was astoundingly

ambitious on the part of Majorcan architect Antonio

Obrador to turn it into an extraordinary hotel.
At the eastern end of the sweeping Bay of Palma,
Cap Rocat sprawls along the coast for more than a mile
but is invisible from both land and sea. Crossing
a bridge spanning the trench around the structure, you
enter a secret citadel enclosed by ramparts and turrets
(pictured above). Although 15 minutes from Palmas
centre, it feels very private and remote, surrounded by
a nature reserve that chimes with bird song.
There are two rooms and 23 suites, most of which
are individual structures of golden stone that were
originally cannon emplacements. Now, four-poster
beds, local fabrics in cool blue and black-and-white
photographs of Majorca create a grand yet calm
environment. Toiletries, in square carafes with cork
stoppers, are made from local almonds and honey.
Breakfast, on demand, arrives in hampers and is
set up on the terrace or beside daybeds on the cliff
so guests can gaze across the bay as they feast.
At lunchtime, most drift down to the buzzy Sea Club,
overlooking a turquoise cove, for a lunch of Majorcan
prawns and salt-baked seabass at chef Vctor Garcas
smart Mediterranean restaurant, then for dinner head
to his inventive Fortaleza in the dramatic courtyard.
During the day, guests ride bikes, relax on white
leather sunbeds by the saltwater infinity pool (pictured
below) or dive off the rocks. Yoga and pilates are
available, as are treatments using Majorcan almonds.
Staff, in linen tunics, manage always to be close by
when a gin and tonic is required without constantly
hovering around. They are a mine of great local
tips, too, for those who fancy exploring the island
in one of the hotels classic cars (0034 971 747 878;
caprocat.com; suites from 350, b&b).

The post-party crash pad IBIZA GRAN HOTEL Ibiza

lbert Adri let slip earlier this year

hotel-weary people stay here is because

that he and his super-chef brother

everything just works. The suites, in natural

Ferran were negotiating with the Casino de

tones with original artworks and teak

Ibiza about opening a new venture there

terraces, are not over-designed but sleek

next year. This would put the Ibiza Gran Hotel

and extremely comfortable. All have views

(on the same site and also owned by the

across the marina to the Dalt Vila, the

Santandreu family) even more in the media

old part of Ibiza town.

glare than it already is.

Until now, the hotel has been the place

Although the food is fresh and inventive

in all restaurants, the breakfast buffet is

where DJs and other movers and shakers

particularly appetising, with the chef creating

have chosen to stay when they wanted to

something unexpected every morning, such

get a good nights sleep but still be in the

as fresh handmade chocolates at breakfast

middle of the action. Located in the same

not a bad way to start the day. Lunch is

complex as hip places such as the Cipriani

often taken by the pool, or on private

restaurant, and handy for the ever-buzzy

terraces attached to the knockout suites

Cavalli restaurant in Marina Ibiza, it has

and, later, cocktails such as fresh melon

become the fashionable but tranquil

mojitos are sipped in the La Gaia (surrounded

central-Ibiza retreat.

by hip Seventies photographs) and Gee

Lounge bars before a night on the town.

Cocktail capital Private terrace at the

hotel, it is far from it. There are 157 suites

Pach is just around the corner, so virtually

Ibiza Gran Hotel (top), where drinks often

the smallest is 480sq ft two pools, a first-

a local for many guests staying here

feature local spices and ingredients (above)

class spa and several bars and restaurants.

(0034 971 806 777; ibizagranhotel.com;

Although it has the feel of a boutique

The reason all those well-travelled,

suites from 235, b&b).

LCKI8KI8M<C 

The private island

TAGOMAGO Off Ibiza

ith but a handful of islands strewn like

giant boulders in the Mediterranean, the

Balearics arent the first place that comes to mind

for those considering a private island getaway. But
just off the coast of Ibiza, a 100-acre landmass, covered
with brushwoods and native scrub, has been
quietly developed as an exclusive European hideaway
unlike any other.
Tagomago is the brainchild of real-estate mogul
Matthias Khn, who has recast the once-forlorn,
solitary, Seventies-style dwelling into a rousing
whitewashed villa with no fewer than five modernist
en-suite bedrooms. It is decorated with designer
accoutrements (think furnishings by Erda; lighting by
Ingo Maurer; TVs by Bang & Olufsen) and original
artworks in vivid reds, blues and yellows, courtesy
of designer Olga Ferrer. The airy villa, which also
features a large dining and sitting room as well as
a gym, sits adjacent to an arrestingly beautiful
blacked-out pool and forms the heart of this parched,
vertiginous isle.
Guests naturally make the most of the pool or can
explore one of the many walking trails to a century-old
lighthouse at the islands other end. Or they can head
for the turquoise waters of its sheltered cove, where

Away from the clubbing

they can take a dip and where yachts may moor.

crowds Tagomago, on

Whatever they choose to do on the island, disruptions,

which guests land in the

interlopers and trespassers wont figure in this idyllic

islands own helicopter

equation. This level of solitude does come with

(top left). Views of Ibiza

a six-figure price per week, but as Khn says: You

from a beachside veranda

cant put a price on Tagomago; its like a Picasso.

(above) and a secluded

(0034 691 858 553; tagomago-island.com; from

outdoor dining area (left)

100,000 a week). Farhad Heydari

 LCKI8KI8M<C

The knockout villa EL HORIZONTE Ibiza

n the southwest of the island, overlooking

precipitous cliff-garden, El Horizonte is better

beauty therapists, who set up their tables by

the pretty cliftfop village of Es Cubells,

suited to older children or a group of friends.

the pool. Most guests request a chef and the

El Horizonte (pictured above) has sweeping

The open-plan living area has a Balinese

kitchen is well equipped, and has a hidden

views across the Mediterranean and the

acacia dining table that is long enough to

prepping area, so any culinary messiness

coastline. Built a decade ago, the white,

seat everyone staying at the villa as well as a

doesnt spoil the view.

Modernist villa is all space and light.

few guests. With its white furniture, concrete

A reclining Buddha languishes by the 80ft

floors and striking artworks adorning the

just 15 minutes from the airport and 20

infinity pool on the main terrace, one of

walls, the villa feels a bit like a gallery

minutes from Ibiza town. Es Cubells beach

many Eastern artworks in the property. Steps

although, given the views, eyes are inevitably

is a couple of miles down the road and some

lead through the trees to a shaded dining

drawn to the dramatic scenery outside.

of the most beautiful coves on the island

area, perfect for a long paella lunch. There

This is a villa in which there is plenty to do.

While it feels very rural, the house is

such as Cala dHort, Cala Conta, Cala Bassa

are sunbeds and chillout areas right across

In the evenings, guests can watch movies on

and Cala Tarida are just a short drive

the front of the villa, so guests can break off

a drop-down screen, if the television just

away. Guests can take their pick of the

into small groups with their own space.

isnt big enough. A personal trainer will show

beachside fish restaurants nearby or just

up every day (if requested) to help guests

ask the chef to pick up the catch of the day

of which face the sea. Two are in a lower

work out in the outdoor gym and the best

from the market and serve it under the trees

section of the building and are suitable for

yoga and pilates instructors on the island are

(01799 516971; internationalvillas.net;

nannies as well as guests, although, with its

a phone call away, as are massage and

weekly rental from 25,300).

Inside, there are seven bedrooms, three

The converted palace

HOTEL CAN ALOMAR

Majorca

ome hotels sit so naturally in their neighbourhood

that you just assume they have been there for

years. This is certainly the impression given at

Can Alomar in Palma (above), which opened in May
and is already one of the smartest addresses in town.

The luxe resort JUMEIRAH PORT SOLLER Majorca

Chic locals meet for evening drinks at the terrace bar,

and tables at De Tokio a Lima, this seasons hot new

uilt into the hillside overlooking the

restaurant, have to be booked well in advance.

curving bay of Port Sller on the

The Passeig del Born boulevard is becoming

northwest coast of Majorca, framed by the

Palmas premier shopping street and Can Alomar

Tramuntana mountains, the Jumeirah has an

occupies a prime spot on the corner with San Feliu,

extraordinary location. Had it not been built

a lane lined with galleries and boutiques.

on the site of a previously failed project,

This is the third hotel in Palma opened by

there is no way this two-year-old property

entrepreneur Miguel Conde Moragues and his architect

would have been given planning permission

wife Cristina, following Can Cera and Calatrava. The

particularly since the Tramuntana coast

elegant 19th-century building now has 16 large rooms

was awarded Unesco World Heritage status

and suites with cool, pared-down decor in shades of

three years ago.

the palest grey, green and taupe with striking paintings

The hotel snakes along the cliff edge for

and sculptures; the couple are keen art collectors and

about a mile, its 120 rooms making up a

each of their hotels feels like a gallery.

string of interlinked buildings on different

Up on the roof, with views of the cathedral and

levels. Some have wet rooms with panoramic

the Mediterranean, there is a small pool and

windows so guests can take in the views as

sunbathing area, as well as a turret, which is a lovely

they shower, as well as beds facing the sea.

spot for a glass of cava before dinner. The menu at

Paintings by Majorcan artists soften the

De Tokio a Lima is a zingy fusion of Majorcan, Japanese

classic style, which emphasises comfort

The spa also has an outdoor Jacuzzi in which

local, which is all that most diners seem

and Peruvian influences, with dishes such as

rather than designer gimmickry.

to loll in bubbles following a relaxing Natura

concerned with as they dig into their famous

scallop, octopus and seaweed ceviche. Breakfast

Biss spa treatment.

Sller prawns alongside their croquetas.

is a buffet with a small but well-chosen selection,

The two-level Lighthouse Suite occupies

a watchtower-like structure and has a huge

The restaurants serve up remarkably

Both the bright lights of Palma and the

with eggs cooked to order and excellent just-brewed,

terrace with a Jacuzzi, while the 1,700sq ft

good local food given they are in an

airport are only around half an hours drive

Observatory Suite has private access and is

international hotel. The new chef, Jen Friedl,

away, while Dei and a string of tiny coves

equipped with a telescope for a spot of

who previously worked in Hong Kong and

are a short drive around the coast. Taking a

and curated shopping can all be arranged prior to

stargazing. The infinity pool right at the top of

Shenzhen, has introduced Asian dishes

boat is far more relaxing than driving there,

arrival, so guests can make the most of their time

the complex (above right) is where couples

alongside the tapas in Es Fanals, the less

and something that the hotel can, of course,

on the island from the moment they arrive

meet for cocktails, while the lower-level

formal restaurant by the infinity pool. It

organise (0034 971 637 888; jumeirah.com;

(0034 871 592 002; luxuryboutiquehotelcanalomar.com;

Sa Talaia pool is where families congregate.

may seem an odd mix, but the produce is

doubles from 320, b&b).

doubles from 172, b&b).

 LCKI8KI8M<C

full-flavoured coffee.
Restaurant reservations, sailing, vineyard visits

The foodie hotel

TORRALBENC Menorca

t doesnt take long to feel relaxed at Torralbenc.

No sooner have most guests sunk into a linen

armchair and breathed in the scents of rosemary

and lavender than they have drifted off. Others might
take a massage with herbal potions to help them
on their way.
In spite of being just 10 minutes drive from the
airport and 20 minutes from the capital Mahn, in the
south-east of the island, Torralbenc is very rural,
surrounded by countryside and with tremendous views
of the Mediterranean from its hill-top position.
Traditional Menorcan dry-stone walls and olive trees
enclose a former farmhouse and outbuildings,
transformed last year by architect Antonio Esteva into
22 airy rooms with beamed ceilings, chestnut furniture
and sandstone floors. For those who want a bit more
privacy, theres a cottage with its own pool; for
everyone else, there is an 80ft pool, alongside
treatment rooms and a small gym where yoga and
pilates classes take place.
Paco Morales (below), one of Spains most
interesting young chefs, oversees the kitchen and is
present on a regular basis, despite being busy setting
up his own place, Noor, which opens in Crdoba next
year. Guests can choose between his innovative
cuisine for which he gained a Michelin star at his
previous restaurant or opt for something simple but
delicious, such as just-picked salad with local fish. The
la carte breakfast is either served on the restaurant
terrace or delivered in baskets on to guests terraces.

The boutique retreat SON NET Majorca

n Majorca, treehouses are not just for

and LOccitane products in the vast marble

El Gazebo restaurants terrace might be

children. The one just constructed at Son

bathrooms. Despite the odd suit of armour,

a lobster and avocado salad, or ibrico ham,

Net, a grand pink 17th-century mansion

the overall feel is neither old-fashioned nor

patatas bravas and a cold beer.

it will be a few years yet before guests can drink from

above the village of Puigpunyent in the

stuffy, with contemporary furniture in the

Torralbencs own bottles, they can go down to the

Tramuntana hills (above), is a very grown-up

sprawling lounges, liberal use of Majorcan

Guests generally find small spaces in which

cellar and taste wines on the excellent list (0034 971

affair and, thankfully, accessed via a spiral

fabrics and vibrant art on walls, including

to relax around the property, in shorts and

377 211; torralbenc.com; doubles from 144, b&b).

staircase rather than a ladder. As romantic

works by Frank Stella and David Hockney.

flip flops or floaty dresses. There are enough

dinner locations go, it takes some beating,

Lying by the 100ft pool in the privacy of

spa treatments to keep most guests amused

The proprietors also own the renowned Rioja winery

Remrez de Ganuza, so it is not so surprising that
vineyards have been planted around the hotel. While

although its a sublime spot for cocktails, too.

This isnt a place for posing around a pool.

bottle-green canvas cabanas, guests might

for at least a week, and several top golf

feel as if they are staying in an art-collectors

courses and a handful of beaches within

though. Each of the 31 individually designed

country home rather than a hotel. A stroll

easy reach. With Palma and the airport only

rooms and suites is sumptuously furnished,

around the hillside reveals a helipad as well

20 minutes away, Son Net is the perfect base

with four-poster beds, antiques and refined

as a vineyard and vegetable garden, which

for a lengthy, and leisurely, stay in the

upholstery beneath beamed ceilings, and

provide much of the produce for chef Sergio

Balearics (0034 971 147 000; sonnet.es;

fresh citrus-fragranced Antica Farmacista

Olmedos Oleum Restaurant. Lunch on

doubles from 125, b&b).

This is a hotel that does things differently,

ULTRA BASICS HOW TO GET TO THE BALEARICS IN STYLE

IBIZA

private jets to the islands include Private

to ME Ibiza, staying in suites, with private

British Airways (0844 493 0787; ba.com)

Fly (01747 642 777; privatefly.com; from

chefs, yacht trips and speedboat

flies from Heathrow to Ibiza four times

8,262 return, for four, in a Citation

transfers, from 25,000 per person for

a week from March until late October,

Mustang from London Luton to Palma).

six nights. Sloane Helicopters in Majorca

from 272 return in Club Europe. It also

Departures from other airports can be

(0034 971 794 132; sloanemallorca.com)

flies from Gatwick and London City.

arranged, flight times are flexible, pets

offers sightseeing and heli-dining tours,

MAJORCA

can travel in the cabin, and passengers

from 549 (about 430) for 30 minutes.

BA has Club Europe seats on flights

can arrive 15 minutes before departure.

Money 1 = 1.26

departing from Heathrow and London

Jet ME (0034 971 330 051; me-by-melia.

More information ibiza.travel/en;

City to Palma. Charter companies offering

com) offers six-night private-jet packages

seemallorca.com; majorca-mallorca.co.uk

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ULTRA ADVENTURE

BEAUTY
& THE
BEASTS
The Komodo Islands in Indonesia are renowned for their terrifying
giant lizards, but their volcanic landscapes and underwater wildlife are as
fascinating and strange as any real-life dragon. Lisa Grainger travels by
luxury phinisi around islands that remain in prehistory

There be dragons Si Datu Bua,

a traditional Indonesian yacht,
sailing in the waters around the
Komodo Islands

 LCKI8KI8M<C

LCKI8KI8M<C 

n the walls of the

admissions office in Loh Buaya, on Rinca Island, splatters
of blood on a wall attest to the ferocity of the creatures
that have put Komodo and its neighbouring Indonesian
islands on the map.
Dragons can smell blood from three miles away,
says our guide Suleiman Oman, a disconcertingly delicate
man armed only with a forked stick that he claims will
repel a charging carnivorous creature.
Not so long ago, a big dragon came into our office and
attacked our wardens leg. He managed to climb up to the
window and escape, but it was a very bad bite. He was
lucky; a few years ago a nine-year-old boy from our
village was killed. The dragons took his guts out.
Looking at five of the prehistoric-looking beasts
basking just inside the entrance to the national park, their
scaled faces lifting occasionally to eyeball us as we cluster
nervously behind Suleiman, none of us doubts the
ferocity of the Komodo dragon. The worlds largest lizard
can grow as long as 10ft, from its prominent nostrils to
the end of its long muscular tail, and weigh up to 150lb.
Its leathery skin is made up of grey chainmail-like scales.
From each of its toes extends a long curved claw. And its
tongue is the stuff of horror stories: long, pink and yellow,
forked and extended vigorously every few minutes to test
the air for blood. Watching them, it becomes perfectly
understandable why Steven Spielberg came to these
islands to find inspiration for his film Jurassic Park, or why
the story of King Kong has its origins here. These beasts
are a living link with the Jurassic age, the very
embodiment of fear.
But then nothing in this strange environment is like
anywhere else on earth. Komodo is one of Indonesias
17,508 islands that spread from west to east over 700,000sq
miles: an extensive necklace of land-blobs that separate
the Indian Ocean in the south to the Pacific in the north.
Geologically, the country is extraordinary, too. Its here,
miles below the earths surface, that three of the planets
eight tectonic plates meet, their collision creating seabed
fissures more than four miles deep, as well as causing
extreme volcanic activity. The areas 167 active volcanoes
often spew hot lava into the air, filling the equatorial skies
with clouds of grey ash; once, apparently, in 1815, the
clouds from the biggest eruption known to man, of Mount
Tambora, caused red skies all over the world and in
Europe the legendary year without summer.
Flying east from Indonesias capital Jakarta (a
destination that, this month, will be much easier to reach
thanks to Garudas new non-stop flights from London) to
the island of Flores, the scenery is almost as spectacular
from the skies as it is on the ground. Looking down,
emerald forests stretch to the horizon. Tiny islands dot the
seas little blobs of green surrounded by white sand and
turquoise seas. Volcanoes spew smoke into the skies, or
lie dormant like brown corpuscles on a skin of grey, ash-

 LCKI8KI8M<C

Dragon boat
A menacing Komodo dragon on
the prowl for meat, top.
Far left: the sumptuous deck of
Si Datu Bua, and left, Gede, the
ships ever-smiling butler, with a
tray of fresh juices

strewn earth. And as we head east, the drier savannah

islands appear: their once-molten, smooth surfaces now
carpeted with a layer of dry golden grass.
In the waters surrounding the island of Flores, just off
the little fishing town of Labuan Bajo, my friends and I join
the boat that is to be our home, and our transport, for the
next four nights. Si Datu Bua or Beloved Princess is
a wooden phinisi: one of the traditional south-east Asian
schooners that for centuries carried spices between Africa,
India, the Middle East and China.
Except, unlike those workhorse cargo ships, Si Datu
Bua is a luxury vessel, built locally two years ago by Patti
Seery, an American textiles enthusiast who fell in love not
just with the Indonesian islands, but also with their
people, and wanted to help resuscitate their boat-building
industry by constructing one of the most beautiful vessels
the country had ever seen.
Having spent four nights on it, and sailed alongside its
larger, older sister ship, Silolona, I cannot believe there is

IT IS NO SURPRISE
STEVEN SPIELBERG
CAME HERE TO FIND
INSPIRATION FOR
JURASSIC PARK

another phinisi anywhere that is as elegant or

comfortable. There certainly isnt one whose creation can
have been conceived with such love. Seery has chartered
boats most of her adult life, and studied their make-up, so
she knew precisely what she wanted from this sailing
princess: a wide girth to ensure a comfortable voyage, a
strong body made from Indonesias most beautiful trees,
and dcor and comforts that couldnt fail to seduce.
The 130ft-long boat is crafted from the finest local
hardwoods, from dark ironwood to golden teak, polished
like fine furniture and embedded in her prow and stern
with gold and diamonds. (Shes a woman and in these
islands thats what female ships demand, Seery
explains.) The guest accommodation consists of three
capacious, air-conditioned double cabins, with proper
bathrooms, king-sized beds made up with super-soft
cotton-bamboo sheets and walls hung with exquisite
antique fabrics, maps and indigenous objects.
Up on deck, loungers and banquettes are strewn with
cushions for sunbathing, while shaded sofas and dining
tables are ideal for poring over Seerys collection of books
and antique maps (including one showing Sir Francis
Drakes voyages into this area). And in smart uniforms are
13 crew more than two per passenger who are always
there, smiling and ready the minute you need them, and
otherwise invisible, off creating lobster feasts and beach
barbecues, preparing cold lemongrass-infused towels and
fresh-pressed tropical juices, washing your dive gear and
preparing the double-masted schooner to set sail on its
seven rust-coloured sails or its 450hp engine.
The beauty of this ship and Seerys other phinisi

TWO FANTASTIC OFFERS

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Silolona, which sleeps 12, and has hosted guests such as

Gwyneth Paltrow, Tony Blair and a Saudi princess who left
the crew a $30,000 tip is that they can go pretty much
where you want, when you want, for as long as you want.
Many guests, apparently, come for 19 days; some taking
the small ship, some the large, others both, to sail around
Thailand, Malaysia, the Andaman Islands or Raja Ampat
Islands in West Papua from October to March; the rest of
the year, they cruise around Komodo where, particularly
in March, April, September and October, seas and winds
are relatively calm.
What we wanted was both an underwater and an overwater safari that would allow us not only to understand
why great 19th-century naturalists such as Alfred Wallace
had sailed to these islands, but also to explore the richest
marine environment on earth: waters that hold more than
a third of the worlds sea life. This area forms part of the
Wallace Line, where cool currents from the south meet
the warmer ones from the north, resulting in species from
both Australasia and Melanesia, from manta rays and
whale sharks below the water to cockatoos and Komodo
dragons above it. Just when you think youve seen the
most incredible creature youve ever imagined, says
Seery, another one comes along. Weve had all sorts of
marine experts on these ships whove found things no
ones ever seen before.

 LCKI8KI8M<C

Beautiful creatures Swimming with whale sharks, above, and below, from left, clown fish, a comatula starfish on coral, and diving in clear water

WHEREVER WE
LOOKED IN THIS SEA
OF CREATIVITY,
A PERFORMANCE WAS
TAKING PLACE

cocktails on a sandbank; on another a beach barbecue

with a guitarist; the final night the whole crew serenaded
us on board under the moon.
There were tears from guests on several occasions on
this trip, all of joy. It wasnt just the islands beauty that
overwhelmed us, or the sweet nature of the people, but
the warmth of Seery, who has spent 10 years creating
these ships and dreaming up bespoke journeys for
travellers of all kinds, from families to serious divers.
Having spent decades exploring the islands herself,
she knows all the best spots: the most sheltered beaches
for barbecues (Banta Island, where we stopped to roast
lobsters in the moonlight); waters where manta rays come
to be cleaned (near Bugis); beaches where the sand is
pink with shredded coral and littered with head-sized
shells (Padar Island). As a textiles expert, she knows
which tribes make the most exquisite batik and ikat
fabrics, and which island is particularly well-known for its
beautiful women (Savu). Shes known on these islands as
Ibu, or mother, welcomed wherever she goes, and
clearly adored by her crew. Sailing with her on her dream
ships, its not hard to see why.
Original Diving (020 7978 0505; originaldiving.com) offers
tailor-made sailing and scuba-diving trips to the Komodo
National Park from 6,600 per person, including six nights
on Si Data Bua in a shared cabin; one night stop-over in Bali
staying at Karma Kandara; international and domestic
flights with Garuda Indonesia and transfers. For private
charter, Si Datu Bua accommodates up to six guests in three
cabins from 7,800 per day, fully inclusive, excluding alcohol.

TIM SIMOND; NEILL GOSH; LISA GRAINGER; GETTY

ailing for four days around the protected

islands and seas of the Komodo National Park,
stopping to anchor at night in sheltered bays,
we saw extraordinary creatures in abundance.
It made perfect sense why Sir David Attenborough came
here so early in his career in 1956 for his Zoo Quest
series. In fact, having seen smoking volcanoes oozing
molten lava, dinosaur-like lizards and swirling flocks of
bats flooding the skies at night, it was hard not to believe
we, too, were on a film set or had been transported into a
Joseph Conrad book. If we were on earth, it was not the
planet we knew, but some place more exotic, more
ancient, and infinitely more primeval.
Everywhere we stopped there was something strange
and wonderful to see. One morning, kayaking beside
mangroves in a calm bay just off Komodo Island, clouds
of flying foxes suddenly erupted into the air, screeching
and soaring on their rust-coloured wings before coming
to hang from branches just above our heads. Another day,
walking in a rare forested area, we spotted cockatoos,
golden orioles and luminescent emerald doves. We saw a
pair of sea eagles hunting for fish in the evening light,
hopping sea fish that could both lie on rocks and then
leap into the water, and pods of dozens of dolphins that
played in the boats wake as we sailed.
If, on our over-water safari, the creatures appeared to
be remnants of a prehistoric age, on our underwater
expeditions they were like circus performers clad in
striped, spotted and frilled costumes, painted in the most
lurid iridescent shades imaginable, and given ludicrously
inventive masks, some with oversized eyes or lips, others
with fringes of tentacles.
Wherever we looked in this great sea of creativity,
a performance was taking place. Above our heads, balletic
manta rays flitted in the sunlight like giant acrobats,
alongside a corps de ballet of thousands of synchronised
yellow-striped fish. Below, weird performers the
transparent ghost pipefish; the fluttering but deadly
lionfish; the frilled yellow-and-purple nudibranch; the
terrifyingly over-familiar blue sea snake flittered and
fluttered by. And on seafloors and rock walls, fan-shapes
and brain-shapes and mushrooms of luminous,
multicoloured coral gleamed and glowed in the clear
water, as yet untouched by global warming or the
devastating hand of man.
Having to ascend when our air ran out was always a
disappointment apart from the fact that we knew that
the minute we stepped on board there would be a
smiling man waiting, with fresh towels and hot chocolate,
and the promise of yet another surprise. One night it was

Moment
The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with
the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

ULTRA TREND

GAME OF THRONES

ILLUSTRATION BY PAUL SLATER

As Paris, London and New York compete to be hotel capital of the world, the grandes dames establishments are being
challenged by new properties with an emphasis on cutting-edge design and innovative service, says Claire Wrathall

he past decade has seen an unprecedented number of grand hotel

openings in London, New York and Paris the latter being arguably
the global capital of grande-dame establishments. As recently as 2005,
there were just six self-styled palace hotels in the French capital.
But then Frances Competition Authority accused them of exchanging
condential information that they used to keep their rack rates
articially high. Each was ned. Since then their woes have been
compounded by the opening of a succession of newcomers, each
aspiring to palatial status the loosely dened qualications for which
were a historic setting, opulent decor, a gastronomic restaurant worthy
of a Michelin star and lead-in rates of around 1,000 a night and
threatening to eat their lunch.
Nine years on the Crillon is closed, pending its transformation into a
Rosewood: the Hong Kong Chinese-owned, Texas-based management

company that owns, among other properties, New Yorks venerable

Carlyle, as well as the new Rosewood in London. The Ritz is closed too,
for the rst time in its 116-year history, while it undergoes a root-andbranch refurbishment and expansion scheduled for completion next
Easter. Le Meurices sister hotel, the Plaza Athne has just reopened.
Meanwhile, the peerless Bristol has undergone a gradual programme of
improvements over the past few years: a new restaurant, a splendid new
La Prairie spa with a banya to keep its Russian guests happy, as well as
some new signature suites, notably an enlade of rooms tucked under
the hotels mansard roof with seven balconies, Eiffel Tower views and
auspiciously numbered 888, the better to appeal to Chinese visitors.
The reasons for this rush to improve are obvious. Of course, none of
the old guard wants to look shabby or tired in comparison with the
newcomers let us call them belles lles, even if some of them are

LCKI8KI8M<C 

dressed like dowagers especially those that had their

pride pricked further by the introduction in 2011 of an
ofcially sanctioned better-than-ve-star palace
distinction. This deliberately excluded the Ritz, the
Crillon and the Four Seasons George V (since
promoted) in its rst announcement, but accorded the
honour to the all-American (and excellent) Park Hyatt.
Worse, the palace distinction has been swiftly
bestowed on many of the newcomers, not least the huge
Hong Kong-based brand Shangri-La Paris. Next came
Le Royal Monceau, operated by the Singapore-based
Rafes group; then the Mandarin Oriental. Rosewood
and the Ritz will be praying the honour is swiftly
forthcoming once they reopen. Especially as they will
be facing stern competition from Peninsula, another
superlative Hong Kong brand, which nally opened in
August. Aside from its Cantonese restaurant LiLi, the
hotels look and feel is essentially European art deco,
in keeping with the heritage of the hotel.
Where the old guard retain their edge is in their
location. Traditionally, the concentration of prime hotels
has straddled the rst and eighth arrondissements, an
area delineated to the north by the Ritz, the west by the
Four Seasons George V, the east by Le Meurice and the
south by the just reopened and refurbished Plaza
Athne. The new kids have had to strike out further
from the centre. The Peninsula is out in the 16th on
Avenue Klber, three blocks west of the Champs-Elyses
in what was the Majestic, the rst Parisian hotel to offer
ensuite bathrooms. The Shangri-La is yet a further
half-mile south, on the right side of the Seine but only
just and rather too close to the Trocadro. Mon dieu!
Admittedly, its Eiffel Tower views are terric, but theres
not much else to recommend the neighbourhood.
The building, though, is very splendid indeed: the
former Palais dIna, built by Prince Roland Bonaparte,
a grand-nephew of Napoleon. Shangri-La spent four
years and 180 million restoring it to its dazzling former
glory, and you can see where the money was spent.
Its Grand Salon is almost worthy of Versailles, a
Galerie des Glaces writ small.
These new hotels are also raising the game in terms
of thoughtful extras. Thank you, Mandarin Oriental,
not just for the Lesage-embroidered bedheads in the
suites, but for clothes steamers stored in the wardrobes:
so much less arduous than ironing, so much faster than
calling housekeeping. At The Peninsula youll nd
touchscreen tablets for controlling the air conditioning,
blinds and televisions, as well as panels on the walls
that gauge the outside temperature, control the
thermostat, or summon your valet (butlers are old hat).
A similar story is unfolding in London, where
The Lanesborough on Hyde Park Corner is shut while
a redesign by the Paris-based Alberto Pinto studio
reworks its interiors in readiness for Peninsulas
eagerly awaited London debut practically next door at
1-5 Grosvenor Place.
Historically, however, the preferred hub for Londons
best hotels has tended to be Mayfair, a trend set by
Browns, the oldest in London, when it opened on
Albemarle Street in 1837, and cemented by Claridges
when it morphed from a lodging house into a hotel
on Upper Brook Street in 1854, and later by The
Connaught. The trend continues to this day. When the
modish London restaurateurs Chris Corbin and Jeremy
King open their rst hotel, the Beaumont, next month,
it will be on Brown Hart Gardens, just off Duke Street.
But lately a prodigious number of openings combined
with a shortage of suitable real estate has, as in Paris,
prompted some diversication. Take Londons ShangriLa, which peers down on London Bridge station from its
eyrie in the Shard. Not simply an outlier when it comes
to location, its dcor marks a turning point, too. For just
as the wine list in its Ting restaurant features Chinese
wines to complement its modern European cooking,

 LCKI8KI8M<C

LONDON

1 The Shangri-La in the Shard

2 Berners Tavern at Edition, in a
previously unfashionable area
near Oxford Street
3 The Mondrian on the
revamped South Bank
4 Ham Yard Hotel in buzzy Soho
5 Browns, the oldest city hotel
6 Claridges, in Mayfair

7 The elegant bar at The

Connaught, also in Mayfair

NEW YORK
1 French-inspired design at the
Baccarat in Midtown
2 The Park Hyatt, the citys
tallest residential tower
3 The SLS Hotel Park Avenue,
designed by Philippe Starck
4 Clubby comfort at The Carlyle
in the Upper East Side
5 The ornate Pierre, also in
the Upper East Side
6 Classic elegance at the New

York Palace in Midtown

PARIS

1 The bar at Le Royal Monceau

2 The view from the Shangri-La
3 An Eastern vibe at the
Mandarin Oriental
4 The Four Seasons Georges V
5 A suite at the Ritz
6 The restaurant at Le Meurice

so its rather plain rooms might as well be in Pudong.

No prizes for guessing which market it has in its sights.
At least if youve paid the premium for a room on the
front, the views are unmistakably London and great.
If youve opted for one at the 450 lead-in rate, however,
you may nd yourself looking across the unlovely roof
of Guys Hospital towards Brockwell and Dulwich.
Whether the worlds premium-hotel dwellers are ready
to trade Mayfair for Bermondsey remains to be seen.
The Marriott-managed Edition has ventured further
north than some would countenance, to the dreary
wrong side of Oxford Street, though its Yabu
Pushelberg-designed rooms go some way to
compensate. And Fitzrovia is tipped as the next
Marylebone, site of the hysterically over-subscribed
Andr Balazs-owned Chiltern Firehouse.
The forthcoming Mondrian the rst European
outpost of Morgans hotels and, like the Edition, another
design-led US brand created by Ian Schrager occupies
the former headquarters of Sea Containers House on
the Thames. The downside is its in Southwark, handy
for Tate Modern and the Festival Hall, but not much
else. Whether or not Firmdales latest offering, Ham
Yard, improves an insalubrious part of southern Soho
also remains to be seen, but the brand has a fan base
for whom its whimsical interiors, residents-only roof
terrace and basement bowling alley will be a draw.
Meanwhile, Rosewood London is having an impact
on hitherto unlovely High Holborn. Its 85-million
restoration of the former headquarters of Pearl
Assurance has transformed it into the lodgings of
choice for American A-listers and actors, not least
because of its courtyard entrance, which means the
paparazzi and teenage fans can be kept at bay.
There have been calls, not least by Boris Johnson, to
rebrand this part of London Midtown, sitting as it does
midway between the West End and the City, and
echoing the name applied to the stretch of Manhattan
running south from 59th Street to about 30th. Certainly,
the higher reaches of New Yorks Midtown have long
played host to such hotels as the recently revamped
St Regis and glitzy 900-room New York Palace, even if
the real grandes dames The Carlyle, The Surrey and
The Mark are clustered on the Upper East Side.
And the competition is set to intensify now that Park
Hyatt has opened its rst Manhattan property in the
90-storey One57 building, the tallest residential tower
in the city. Too bad its 210 rooms, designed by the
tireless Yabu Pushelberg, occupy the bottom 25 oors.
Later this year Baccarat, the French crystal and glass
company founded by Louis XV, opens its rst hotel,
again in Midtown, this time opposite the Museum of
Modern Art on 53rd and Fifth in a 45-storey tower
designed by Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Patrick Gilles
and Dorothe Boissier, the Parisian husband-and-wife
design team, are keeping details of its dcor rmly
under wraps, but the smart money suggests it will be
understated, beautiful and quintessentially French.
Hot on its heels will come the 190-room SLS Hotel
Park Avenue (at no 444), a part of Midtown now being
marketed as NoMad (for North of Madison Square
Park), but a property worth keeping tabs on, because it
will be designed by Philippe Starck, his rst New York
hotel project since he revamped the Paramount (for
Ian Schrager) in 1990, and in so doing more or less
created the design hotel.
All of which may yet presage unease in the
competition: perhaps its not enough now simply to
have your property renovated. It needs to be the work
of a French designer or, at least, in light of Alexandra
Champalimauds recent $140 million makeover of the
New York Palace, one with a French name. For though
Pariss hotel scene may have undergone something of
an upheaval lately, its grandest grand hotels continue to
set the standard to which the rest of the world aspires.

LCKI8KI8M<C 

ULTRA
EXPERIENCES

26
PA
G

E
GUIDE

ULTRATRAVEL + ABERCROMBIE & KENT

CHARLES FRGER

MACHU PICCHU HIGHS

DON MCCULLINS INDIA
BEST BIG CAT SAFARIS
PLUS
WIN A HOLIDAY TO MYANMAR

Oruawharo Beach, Great Barrier Island

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

GETTY

the NEXT BIG

LAND ADVENTURE

OFF-ROAD DRIVING THROUGH MOROCCO . . .

here are few other desert roads that traverse such magnicent
scenery as the one from Marrakesh to Essaouira - and few more
thrilling ways to explore it than in a convoy of Land Rover
Discovery 4x4 vehicles. The distinctive colours and variety of the rural
landscapes along the road from the Moroccan city are justly celebrated.
The Atlas Mountains, which separate the Mediterranean and Atlantic
coastlines in North Africa from the Sahara Desert, are a corridor of
ranges covered in forests and punctuated with dramatic, fertile valleys
and alongside them lies some thrilling terrain to explore, including
mountain passes and desert dunes.
A new adventurous overland tour explores the countryside, with
detours into the Atlas Mountains, accompanied by guides who can help
travellers to get the best out of these high-performance vehicles from
mastering the challenging off-road conditions to navigating the tangle
of Marrakeshs streets. Although it is an ideal break for experienced
off-road drivers, the range of terrain means drivers of all abilities can
have a go behind the wheel. Accommodation includes Sir Richard
Bransons Kasbah Tamadot a palatial Moorish-style hotel set among
landscaped gardens in the foothills of the Atlas.

A six-day, self-drive itinerary

with Land Rover instruction
and guided visits to Marrakesh,
the High Atlas and Essaouira,
costs from 3,995 per person,
excluding ights, through
Abercrombie & Kent (0845 415
4757; abercrombiekent.co.uk).
Land Rover adventures are
available in 2015 in Iceland,

. . . OR BIKING IN NEW ZEALAND?

Botswana, Morocco, Tanzania

and the United States.

Two wheels can sometimes beat four, especially in a country like

New Zealand, which has superb terrain for cyclists of all abilities.
A two-week trip, taking in the North and South Islands, incorporates
mountain biking in giant redwood trees and the wine country of
Napier and Blenheim. This is a food-lovers holiday, with tastings
of some of the countrys notable produce, and stays at gourmetfood retreats, including The Farm at Cape Kidnappers.
A 15-day A&K tour costs from 9,945 per person, including ights.

Float on air
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For the ultimate travel experience, fy First. Enjoy dedicated
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To make a reservation or fnd out more,
call Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 485 1215
or email info@abercrombiekent.co.uk

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

ALAMY

the NEXT BIG

SEA ADVENTURE

CRUISING THROUGH THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE . . .

ailing through the Northwest Passage is one of the worlds great

sea journeys. For centuries explorers and traders sought a navigable
path that would connect the Atlantic and Pacic Oceans through the
inhospitable Arctic archipelagos. The freezing environment was so
treacherous that a route was not navigated successfully until 1906 by the
Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen.
Next August, travellers can retrace part of Amundsens route on a
20-night expedition cruise from western Greenland to Russias eastern
coast. The voyage will pass several impressive fjords and glaciers en route,
including the huge, Unesco-protected Ilulissat Icefjord, one of the most
active glaciers in the world, which calves around 22 cubic miles of ice
a year. Zodiac trips, accompanied by lecturers, are offered throughout the
voyage; particularly moving are those around Beechey Island, Somerset
Island and Gjoa Haven, where Arctic explorers took refuge in freezing
conditions to wait sometimes for two years for conditions to improve.
There is exceptional wildlife viewing throughout the cruise, from 100
species of bird, and grizzly, black and polar bears, to one of the largest
populations of beluga whale, which spend much of the year in the the
fog-bound Beaufort Sea.

The 22-day Northwest

Passage expedition on board
the luxury, all-balcony Le Boreal
takes place from August 20 to
September 12 2015. It costs
from 19,680 per person, based
on two sharing, excluding
international ights, through
Abercrombie & Kent (0845 482
0707; abercrombiekent.co.uk).

. . . OR CHARTERING A SUPERYACHT?
The exclusive Australian island of Orpheus is just across the water
from Townsville in Queensland. Flit across by helicopter, and take over
a beach-front villa, before chartering the private, fully crewed 130ft
Flying Fish yacht (with its own helipad and helicopter, and berths for
eight) to view islands, wildlife and the blue expanse of the Pacic.
A 14-night A&K trip, including 10 nights on Orpheus Island and
private charter of the Flying Fish superyacht for four nights, costs
from 21,200 per person, all-inclusive, including ights.

Sarah Collins, July 10th

Pacific Coast | British Columbia

We met a lovely couple today on our travels.

Luxury British Columbia,

Ranches & Wilderness.
From

5,875

Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Day 4

Day 5

Day 6

per
person

8 nights. Terms & conditions apply.

Email info@abercrombiekent.co.uk for more information.

www.abercrombiekent.co.uk/ultracanada

*Price is based on two people travelling, sharing a double room, 9 days 8 nights, 5* plus wilderness lodges. Price includes Economy international flights, transfers, select activities, all meals and local drinks at Siwash Lake Ranch and Sonora Resort. Price
excludes bear viewing and wilderness activites at Sonora, meals in Vancouver. Credit card fees may apply at time of booking. Valid for travel from 02 Jun 15 25 Jun 15. Offer is subject to availability and can change without notification due to fluctuations in
charges and currency. ABTA 72314. Price correct at time of going to print. For more information, please call Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 322 0429, email info@abercrombiekent.co.uk or visit www.abercrombiekent.co.uk

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

4CORNERS; AP; CORBIS

the NEXT BIG

AIR ADVENTURE

FLYING BY PRIVATE JET TO THE WORLDS MOST FAMOUS SIGHTS. . .

private jet, chartered to y to long-haul destinations, makes air

travel thrilling again, rather than merely exhausting. Thats
especially the case when the aircraft has seats that recline into
fully at beds. From next September, travellers can take a round-theworld tour on board a luxury private Boeing 757 with 50 fully reclining
seats that each have more than 6.5ft of leg room. The trip, which lasts
24 days, is a whirlwind tour of some of the worlds most memorable
sights. It begins in Peru with a visit to Machu Picchu, before ying on to
Easter Island in Polynesia to see the enormous stone moai: mysterious,
monolithic gures that were abandoned before completion. The ight
goes on to Samoa, followed by a stop in Sydney (with dinner and a
private performance in Sydney Opera House) and then to Siem Reap
in Cambodia to see the largest religious monument in the world, the
great Khmer temples of Angkor Wat, which date from the 9th century.
From there, the ight heads west to India to visit the Taj Mahal at Agra.
Private tours of Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern in
Istanbul, followed by a night camping under the stars in the Sahara
Desert and a tour of Marrakesh in Morocco, complete a journey packed
with celebrated sights. Best not forget the camera for this one.

A 24-day Wonders of the

World by Private Jet tour,
departing on September 17 2015,
costs from 67,500 per person,
double occupancy, through
Abercrombie & Kent
(0845 485 1518;
abercrombiekent.co.uk).
Private Jet Journeys are offered
to destinations around the

. . . OR HELI-TOURING IN CANADA?

world, from the Amazon

and Africa to India.

Time-poor adventure junkies can hop in a helicopter to tour the

wilderness of British Columbia, Canada, in just four days. The trip goes
across glaciers, forest, lakes and remote hot springs, and stops for
activities such as rafting, shing and wildlife watching. Gourmet meals
are served at a chalet resort, where soaks in outdoor hot tubs help
the body to unwind at the end of a satisfyingly exhausting day.
The four-day A&K tour costs from 6,965 per person, including ights,
transfers and three nights at Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort.

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

FESTIVAL
FEVER

No country on earth enjoys showing off its culture as

joyfully or colourfully as India. In a celebration of seven
of its greatest festivals, the acclaimed photographer
Don McCullin reflects on his life-long love affair with
the subcontinent, while the historian William Dalrymple
explores the rewards of setting up a festival from scratch

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

Don McCullin celebrates 40 years of

visiting Indian festivals, during which hes
photographed camel-markets, lepers
and Mark Shand arriving by elephant

he thing I possibly love most about

India is that its always joyful. Its
impossible not to have your spirit
lifted there, or to be moved. Of all
the countries in the world Ive visited
and there have been many, given
that Ive been travelling since I was five years old, when
I was evacuated from London it is India that has stolen
my heart. Its not just the landscapes and colour, but the
people. They have such soul, and theyre curious; they
always want to learn. Also, if youre cross with them, they
will always forgive you and make out that its their fault,
which is very charming.
Theyre incredibly patient, too; at festivals like the
camel fair at Pushkar there are now more tourists than
camels, and yet, even when dozens of people are pushing
cameras in the traders faces, they always remain placid,
selling their animals and getting on with business.
In England wed tell people to get out of our away, but
they dont lose their cool.
I spent so many years as a war photographer as
people like to call me, which I dont particularly like as its
like being called an executioner or hangman capturing
peoples pain. Whereas, India is all about healing. Its not
about war or famines or revolution or death; its about life
and beauty. Going to a festival, Im instantly on a high,
happy to be among the nicest people on earth.
I first went to the Sonepur Mela, the great elephant fair,
in 1987 with my [late] friend Mark Shand, and Tara, the
elephant he crossed 600 miles of the country on. I joined
him on the last 60 miles, and when we got to the Mela,
we put up tents in a little enclosure made of colourful
Indian drapes that became our little fiefdom. To me,
having my own tent was very luxurious. I am a real
traveller, and can sleep anywhere on earth; I could sleep
on broken glass if I had to not that I want to now.
Im 78 and my legs arent as strong as they were.
In the past four decades that Ive been travelling to
India, Ive been to three festivals, several times: Sonepur
Mela, the elephant and animal fair; Pushkar, the camel
fair; and Kumbh Mela, at Allahabad on the Ganges, which
I went to last year with one of my sons, and in 1965 with
the travel writer Eric Newby. The scenes are almost
Biblical: millions of Indians in white dhotis crossing the
Gandak River, and then setting up camp.
In this sea of humanity, not every person can take the
smells of elephant dung and human excrement and food,
and smoke from a million fires. But its full of such spirit
and life that you cant help but be swept up in it all: the
masses doing their pujas [ritual prayers] in the river; the
mahouts bathing their elephants and scrubbing them with
a pumice stone which the creatures love; the medieval-

looking people. Every part of society is there: men in

beautiful turbans, farmers, sadhus, lepers being pushed
around in carts, cooks stirring soup in vats the size of cars.
It would be difficult to take a bad picture first thing in
the morning, even if you were blindfolded. The light is like
a Monet. Once the sun comes up, and music starts to blast
out of speakers, its impossible to sleep, so you have to get
up. Life starts early here, with pilgrims burning the onerupee of straw theyve bought to sleep on, to try to get some
warmth into their bones, and then cooking and bathing.
India is at its most beautiful when its waking up and
going to sleep: seeing people in golden light taking their
animals to drink, in a sea of smoke, which softens
everything. Sometimes on prints, these images seem
slightly chocolate-boxy, but actually being there and
seeing them with your own eyes is magical. Ive tried to
take each of my sons on a trip to India; I hate the word

INDIA IS AT ITS
MOST BEAUTIFUL
WHEN IT IS WAKING
UP AND GOING TO
SLEEP. THE LIGHT
IS LIKE A MONET
Morning rituals Photograph
taken in the Eighties by Don
McCullin of a dawn scene in
which festival-goers bathe with
an elephant and its mahout

JAIPUR LITERATURE FESTIVAL

JANUARY 21-25 2015

The historian and writer William Dalrymple on

the birth of his annual Indian book celebration: now
the biggest free literary festival in the world

DON MCCULLIN

bonding, but I want them to create a lasting memory and

India is a place you cant forget. Last year I took my eldest
son to the Pushkar Camel Fair and the Kartika Purnima,
which is the night of the full moon. Its a bit touristy now,
and camels are the most unpleasant animals, as I
discovered by travelling on them when I covered the
Eritrean war. They suffer from syphilis, and the foam from
their mouth gets all over your clothes.
Elephants, by comparison, are wonderful creatures.
People really worship them; they are the physical
representation of the god Ganesha, and to get near one is
hugely exciting. When I went with Mark, we were the only
westerners and there were about 120 elephants; last year,
sadly, there were only about 20, as elephants are now very
expensive to keep. But theres still a lively market for
horses and cows, and a theatrical event, where girls dance
with bits of their clothing removed. The men are often so

desperate to catch a glimpse of thigh that there are huge

crowds, pushing and trying to get near; the girls have to
perform behind barbed wire to protect themselves.
India has changed enormously in the time Ive been
visiting it. Theres more noise now, and plastic, and
western dress. But festivals are still places to see its
beauty, its traditions: at Pushkar, the handsome
Rajasthanis with their Sinbad trousers, pointed shoes,
cummerbunds, turbans and glorious big moustaches,
or the Gujaratis in their colourful saris. Or the sadhus,
who come to be fed and housed and looked after.
In India, I love going to bed in winter and finding
a hot-water bottle and being woken with bed-tea. Even
at festivals, in the middle of nowhere, people find time for
such kindnesses. I dont idolise many people, but I do
idolise the Indians.
Interview by Lisa Grainger

n 2004, 10 days after I moved my family to a new life in

India, I gave a reading at a small palace on the edge of
Jaipur. Fourteen people turned up, of whom 10 were
Japanese tourists who had got lost. The next year,
I helped organise a modest literary programme of 18
authors. Two failed to show up, but with the aid of my
co-director, Namita Gokhale, we gathered a respectable
audience of nearly 100 people.
Festivals, like children, have their own lives. As a
festival director, you do all you can to make your offspring
flourish: choose the best location and time of year, plan
the food and the drink and the lighting, design beautiful
tents, fill them with the bright, the brilliant and the
beautiful from across the world. But at a certain point you
have to let go, and look on with hope as your baby makes
its own way into the world. I have, and eight years later,
the Jaipur Literature Festival (jaipurliteraturefestival.org)
has become the largest free lit-fest in the world. Today my
colleagues have to wrestle with staggering logistics. Last
year, they cooked 14,700 hot meals, booked 1,800 hotel
nights for 240 participants, sold 10,000 books and hosted
75,000 people a day, adding up to around quarter of a
million punters in all. And thats not counting the evening
music programme which gathered similar-sized crowds.
One reason for our success is Jaipur itself, one of the
worlds most beautiful cities, and one that has a rich
literary and cultural tradition of its own, as well as the
most wonderfully benign late-January climate. My heart
always lifts as I leave fog-bound Delhi and hit the Jaipur
highway. Within a couple of hours you find yourself amid
sunlit mustard fields, camel-carts and Rajasthani turbans
of bright, primary colours. By the end, you are driving past
the bastions of the Amber Fort and city walls improbably
running near-vertically up the Aravalli mountains.
One of the joys of the festival is that it is a properly
festive festival. The buildings are festooned with bunting,
there are hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts milling
around (including an abnormally large number of
students and beautiful women), we let off fireworks at
night and after 6.30pm the writers have to shut up and
give the stages over to music and dancing. My favourite
review last year was from Time Out: Its settled. Jaipur
is officially the Woodstock and Live 8 of world literature.
Frankfurt and the Booker are like watching the Pope sleep
compared to an ambience that can best be described as
James Joyce meets Monsoon Wedding...
One thing we have always insisted on is that the
festival is completely free and open to all. Anyone can
turn up we are completely egalitarian.
WHERE TO STAY The Jai Mahal Palace (tajhotels.com/
jaimahalpalace) was once the home of the Prime Minister of Jaipur
and is set in 18 acres of Mughal gardens.



THE SEYCHELLES.
PARADIS E FO UN D.
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On the northern edge of the Seychelles lagoon lies this tiny jewel of
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FLY EMIRATES FROM A CHOICE OF 6 UK AIRPORTS TO THE SEYCHELLES. ENJOY

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U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

RIFF MUSIC FESTIVAL

OCTOBER 8-12 2014

ome sundown, the typical fortress in Rajasthan

and there are plenty is cleared of visitors by

guards and watchmen. Bats return to roost in their

arched pavilions; quaint cupolas and near empty
citadels stand as compelling monuments to another
martial age.
Yet for a few days in autumn during the brightest
full moon, Jodhpurs huge Mehrangarh Fort, which
looms over the city on a stark hillside, embraces a
unique event starting just before dawn and continuing
well into the night. Backed by the Maharajah of
Jodhpur, the Rajasthan International Folk Festival
(RIFF) showcases singers and musicians drawn mainly
from Rajasthan and elsewhere in India. Some are
well-known on Indias music scene; others have rarely
performed outside their own communities and, in this
respect, RIFF is helping to reinvigorate a centuries-old
yet long-faded tradition of artistic patronage.
Its not just an Indian groove. An international
dimension is lent by a range of foreign artists for
example a Nordic folk trio, Anglo-Caribbean

PUSHKAR MELA

OCTOBER 30-NOVEMBER 6 2014

nce every year, the hamlet of Pushkar a

the oasis, with all their herds around them. For

and live bands. The mela reaches a crescendo

remote collection of cobalt blue buildings,

five days and nights this is the biggest livestock

when, under the rising full moon, the chanting

edged with whitewashed temples that fringe the

fair in India, attracting snake-charmers,

pilgrims launch butter-lamps on tiny leaf-boats

blurs musical boundaries: expect fusion, impromptu

shore of a tranquil lake in the Thar Desert of

storytellers, acrobats, conjurers, mystics, snake-

into the sacred lake, then take a ritual dip in the

multi-ethnic jams and late-night clubby sets in a

Rajasthan erupts into a cacophonous frenzy of

oil sellers, tourists and traders of paraphernalia

waters to cleanse themselves of sin.

medieval courtyard beside the royal gardens.

colour, music, prayer, incense, magic and

to do with camels. Wandering minstrels sing for

WHERE TO STAY Green House Resort

WHERE TO STAY Raas Jodphur (raasjodhpur.com),

madness. By the night of the full moon of Kartika

their supper as they move between the

(thegreenhouseresort.com), an eco-retreat ten

Jodphurs first boutique hotel, has spectacular views

Purnima (October/November) a quarter of a

thousands of camp fires. There is a funfair with

minutes drive from Pushkar, is an idyllic base

of Mehrangarh Fort.

million semi-nomadic Rajput camel and cattle

giant ferris wheels, camel races, food stalls,

from which to explore this holy city.

AMAR GROVER

herders have set up camps in the desert around

moustache-twisting and turban-tying contests

CHRIS CALDICOTT

electronica or a Spanish flamenco troupe. Last years

high-profile guest was Manu Chao. RIFF deliberately

LADAKH FESTIVAL

NAGAUR WORLD SUFI

SPIRIT FESTIVAL

SEPTEMBER 20-26 2014

FEBRUARY 9-12 2015

adakh, Indias so-called Little Tibet, is a

hauntingly beautiful Himalayan region watered

by the Indus River. Among its craggy mountains and

myriad valleys veined with hiking trails stand

romantic setting of Ahhichatragarh Fort, is a

serious music festival. It embraces every genre of Sufi

picturesque villages and hill-hugging Buddhist

music, poetry and dance, from the hypnotic rhythms

monasteries. As the summer tourist season winds

of Pakistani qawwali to dreamy Persian ghazal love

down in mid-September, the government-organised

songs, Punjabi kafi poetry, the haunting harmonies of

Ladakh Festival lends Leh, the Ladakhi capital,

itinerant Bengali Bauls, the Andalusian Arabic

a final flourish of colour.

instrumentals of Moroccan Nubas and the

Partly because much of the regions cultural life

mesmerising twirling of whirling dervishes.

normally occurs in winter, it promotes aspects of

Performances start early in the morning and go on

Ladakhi culture that visitors might not otherwise see.

until very late at night, and are held at different

Amid clashing cymbals and thudding drums, bleating

locations around the vast grounds of the magnificent

flutes and honking horns, it starts with processions of

hilltop fort; you will hear music in ornate garden

various regional and ethnic groups in traditional

pavilions, on open-air stages under the moonlight and

clothes. Many women come adorned with eyecatching peraks headdresses encrusted with
chunks of turquoise brocade cloaks and felt shoes
with up-turned pointy toes.
Apart from music, folk dancing and archery
CHRIS CALDICOTT; AMAR GROVER; 4CORNERS; ALAMY; LAIF/CAMERAPRESS; GETTY; REX

his annual festival, held since 2008 in the absurdly

competitions, one of the festivals main attractions are

DURGA PUJA

within intimate candlelit courtyards.

SEPTEMBER 29-OCTOBER 4 2014

Its a strictly residents-only affair, and thus has

the friendly atmosphere of a private party, with meals

antastic chaos of colour, crowds,

carried away in vibrant processions to be

included and a mobile cocktail bar set up each night

noise, processions, artistry pervades

immersed in the Hooghly River.

in a different part of the fort. Guests can choose

Bengal at the start of autumn with Durga

Although the festival is devoted to Durga,

between an Indian version of glamping in the

polo matches played in a dusty ground framed by the

Puja. Dedicated to the great mother

over the past couple of decades it has

former royal palace and stark rocky ridges. Teams like

goddess Durga who protects mankind and

become as much about the pandals

even more glamorous Ranvas Nagaur.

the Ladakh Scouts and Animal Husbandry

destroys evil, the festival reaches the zenith

themselves, and most visitors go pandal-

WHERE TO STAY Ranvas Nagaur (ranvasnagaur.

compete for the Ladakh Festival Cup up here its a

of flamboyance in Calcutta, where it takes

hopping to admire the creations, which

com) is a restored former Mughal residence of the

rougher game thanks to the locals gung-ho attitude.

place over five days.

range from traditional-looking temples of

Queens of Jodphur, set in Ahhichatragarh Fort.

bamboo and jute cloth to wonders

CHRIS CALDICOTT

But for most, elaborate cham dances are the

The high-octane jamboree is celebrated

luxurious Royal Camp in the castle grounds, or the

highlight of the festival. Monks sporting lavish

with so much energy that it often leaves

modelled out of Styrofoam. Highlights of

multicoloured robes and fearsome masks depicting

visitors with sensory overload. At least

this colourful display of spirit and artistry

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 4752;

demons and spirits turn and twirl, duck and wheel

2,000 elaborate pop-up temples, or

include an exhibition at a mini Pompidou

abercrombiekent.co.uk) can tailor-make tours

about as if possessed. For Ladakhis its a form of

pandals, are devised across the city, each

Centre with all artworks, of course,

incorporating these festivals. Itineraries include

meditation and spiritual instruction. For tourists its a

of which contains images of Durga who

featuring the goddess Durga.

a 14-night trip to India, taking in Jaipur, Delhi,

great spectacle. And for both its great entertainment.

traditionally has a divine eye in her forehead

WHERE TO STAY The Oberoi Grand

Agra, Udaipur, and both the RIFF festival and

WHERE TO STAY The Golden Dragon hotel

and many arms to signify might, dexterity

Calcutta (oberoihotels.com), a heritage

Pushkar Camel Festival in Rajasthan, from 4,395

(thegranddragonladakh.com), Leh, sits in a

and protective qualities. Amid much beating

hotel in the heart of the city that fuses

per person, with British Airways flights, local

spectacular location with views of the Himalayas.

of large dhak drums, the images are revered

Victorian and traditional Indian styles.

transfers, and b&b accommodation.

AMAR GROVER

in the pandals for several days and then

HARRIET OBRIEN



U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T



ON TOP OF
THE WORLD

The haunting, spiritual beauty of the ruined city of

Machu Picchu seduces even the most seasoned traveller.
Adrian Bridge discovers the most inspiring way to experience
the highs of this 15th-century Inca city, from arriving by
Pullman train to seeing the site from a private pool

he gods of the mountains keeping watch over Machu Picchu

have such a delicious sense of humour.
Take the case of Mick Jagger. The perennial rocker
wanted to see the sacred site without the attentions of the
paparazzi, or the distractions of hoi polloi. And the gods or
the apus as they are known in these parts granted this long-standing
fan of Peru his wish, allowing him the very rare privilege of private
access to the wonders over which they are custodians. But at the
appointed hour of the viewing so legend has it the heavens opened
and those magical, mystical ruins were obscured by cloud.
Poor old Sir Mick. Some people just cant get no satisfaction.
I was reminded of this tale as I lay awake in bed listening to the
wind and the frequent flurries of rain in the night preceding what I had
hoped was to be the indescribably uplifting experience of watching the
sun rise over Machu Picchu.
A great deal of time, trouble and expenditure had been involved in
the build-up to this moment. My wife, celebrating a significant birthday

Natural mystic Machu Picchu,

which sits 7,970ft above sea
level, held a profound religious
significance for the Incas. It was
mysteriously abandoned in the
16th century, only 100 years
after construction



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4CORNERS

U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

(I wouldnt dream of revealing which one), had been

harbouring a deep desire to go to Machu Picchu ever
since it had been the subject of a project at her primary
school; I, too like many counted it among the
handful of sights that simply had to be seen.
It looked as though our moment of magic, too, was
going to be a damp squib. But then something rather
wonderful happened. As dawn drew close, the rain
became less insistent and the magnificent mountains
slowly regained their contours.
It got better. As we entered the site on the dot of 6am
(the earliest anyone other than very, very important
people can get in), it felt as though we were walking in
the midst of clouds. Mist surrounded us, weaving its way
playfully up the fern-filled hillsides. Then, thrillingly, a
little gap would appear, revealing the beautifully jagged
tops of the mountains in the distance; finally, there were
flashes of the sacred stones themselves; intimations of
that cluster of buildings and temples and terraces that,
for their architectural genius and the aesthetic beauty
of their setting, have rightly come to be viewed as one of
the true wonders of the modern world. It may have been
a little drizzly, but there was something mesmerising
about this now-you-see-me-now-you-dont game that
was being played. Our imaginations were free to run
wild; it was indescribably uplifting.
Having decided that this was a trip of a lifetime, we
certainly werent going to risk all on the randomness of
what the weather would be like on any one particular
day or indeed afternoon, the time allotted to the many
who travel here on a day-trip excursion from the ancient
Inca capital of Cusco. We were also thankful that wed
made the trip when we did, given that the governor of
Cusco is considering opening the site until 8pm, which
will allow double the number of visitors to visit.
We had waited a long time for this and wanted to
treat ourselves to the luxury of time to enjoy it: time to
savour it from many different angles and perspectives
and times of the day. We wanted to be transported back
to the 15th century when Inca power was at its zenith
and to be able to absorb some of the facts and myths
about the people who lived and worked here. We wanted
to be able to marvel at the exquisite precision of the
brickwork and a drainage system that is still perfectly
functional. We wanted time to stop and take stock. We
wanted time, too, to be able to leave the site when we felt
wed had enough and return later, refreshed.
We also wanted to do it in style (after all you dont
turn 29 every day), spending one night in the Belmond
(formerly Orient Express) Sanctuary Lodge Machu
Picchu, the only hotel located right beside the entrance
to the site, and two nights in the Inkaterra Machu
Picchu Pueblo Hotel in Aguas Calientes, the small
settlement on the Urubamba River about six miles below
the ruins and a great spot in which to immerse yourself
in the flora and fauna of the cloud forest. We also
decided that, tempting though a four-day hike along the
fabled Inca Trail sounded, our own pilgrimage to Machu
Picchu would be by the Belmond Hiram Bingham the
luxuriously appointed train named after the American
explorer who, in June 1911, discovered the site
untouched since it was abandoned mysteriously by the
Incas at some point in the mid 16th century.
That first sighting of Machu Picchu (old mountain
in the Quechua language) did not disappoint. It was a
brilliantly sunny afternoon (we had spent the morning
travelling from Cusco in the splendour of an art-deco,
polished-wood Pullman carriage and had been wined,
dined, serenaded and pisco-soured splendidly along the
Sacred Valley); the hillsides were a vivid green; llamas
roamed freely. Yes, there were lots of other tourists, but
its a big site and when we finally turned a corner and set
eyes on the citadel, framed by the unmistakable form of
Huayna Picchu, the young mountain behind it, my wife
had to ask the guide to spare us the history for a few

Journey to the interior The Hiram Bingham Pullman train,

top, winds its way through the Sacred Valley. Above: a vividly
coloured Andean cock-of-the-rock. Below: a bedroom
at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge Machu Picchu

MIST ENVELOPED US;

THEN, THRILLINGLY,
A GAP APPEARED,
AND WE CAUGHT
A GLIMPSE OF THE
SACRED STONES

moments as we took in the magnitude of the scene before

us. There are some world-famous sites that dont quite
live up to the hype. Machu Picchu is not one of them.
As we walked, we were given a potted history of how
this extraordinary settlement came into being. It had
been built in the 15th century during the reign of the
greatest of all Inca emperors, Pachacuti, by teams of
labourers drawn from all parts of an empire that, at its
peak, stretched from Ecuador in the north to Argentina
in the south. It had a practical function the protected
terraces were for the cultivation of crops and a deeply
spiritual one, as seen in buildings such as the Temple of
the Sun and the Sacred Plaza. Although inhabited for
just a few decades, it was reserved for the elite of Inca
society: royals, intellectuals and astronomers, some of
whom would have been entitled to the attentions of the
Virgins of the Sun, the women who, from a young age,
were set aside to serve as concubines to the powerful
and even, in some cases, to be sacrificed to the gods.
We reflected on all this later with Marc Yeterian, the
genial Frenchman who manages Belmond Sanctuary
Lodge and who took us on a tour of the orchid garden
behind the lodge, the hot pool (with partial views of the
citadel) and the matted area overlooking the mountains,
which must be the most inspirational place in the world
from which to practise yoga.
In addition to enjoying the luxury of being right
next to the site, we want people to appreciate the
incredible natural environment here, said Marc.
We want them to tap into its spiritual energy.
In a previous incarnation, Marc was employed in
Aguas Calientes in the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo
Hotel, the place to which we retreated after our second
day of exploration of the site. That was a mist-filled,
cloud-swept day, which, in its own way, proved equally
magical and included a climb to the top of Huayna
Picchu (steep, slippery and sensational) and a stroll up to
the Sun Gate, the point at which those who have trekked
the Inca Trail get their first sighting of the citadel.
After such exertions, the Inkaterra Machu Picchu
Pueblo Hotel was a perfect place in which to unwind
and to wake to the sound of humming birds.
Set in 22 acres of lush cloud forest, this pioneering
eco-chic lodge offers nature walks (there are 372 types
of orchid in its grounds), an encounter with the Andean
spectacled bear and a twilight walk to learn about
ancient myths and gaze at the stars of the Southern
Cross. Here, too, you can enjoy massages involving
Andean hot stones and eat quinoa pancakes and
eucalyptus ice cream for breakfast.
Mick Jagger stayed here during that fateful, rainsoaked private visit to Machu Picchu in 2011. Gimme
Shelter, he must have pleaded, and again his prayers
were answered.

ULTRA GUIDE TO SEEING MACHU PICCHU IN STYLE

WHERE TO STAY

yourself to a stay in the Inkaterra Villa:

Luxury tip To get to Machu Picchu

Belmond Sanctuary Lodge

two beautiful adjoining suites, each with

you will probably fly into Lima. Instead

The only hotel right next to Machu

a plunge pool and butler (inkaterra.com).

of heading straight to Cusco, check into

Picchu, Sanctuary Lodge offers direct

HOW TO GET THERE

the funky Hotel B boutique arts hotel

access to the site, enabling you to be

The Belmond Hiram Bingham train

(hotelb.pe) in the bohemian district of

among the first to enter at 6am. The hotel

Although, at just 57 miles, the journey

Barranco. Soak up the art and sign up

is nothing special to look at, but the

by train from Cusco to Machu Picchu

for a foodie tour with chef Penelope

location is unbeatable and it comes

(or Aguas Calientes) is hardly epic, it

Alzamora and learn how to make the

into its own once the day trippers have

does involve going through spectacular

finest ceviche in Lima.

left (belmond.com).

landscape gorges, rivers and forests

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 4752;

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel

against rugged mountain backdrops.

abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers an eight-

This pioneering eco-tourist venture has

Enjoy the view over cocktails and a three-

day journey to Peru including all flights,

85 whitewashed casitas in the lush

course lunch. A three-piece band plays

b&b accommodation, train tickets and

surroundings of the cloud forest. Take

popular classics not the most stylish

private guided tours of Machu Picchu

a leaf out of Mick Jaggers book and treat

experience, but fun (belmond.com).

and Cusco from 3,800 per person.



TOP CATS
U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

There is no creature more thrilling to see in the wild than a big cat. Richard Madden speaks to five leading wildlife experts
to find out what makes the lion, tiger, leopard, cheetah and jaguar so compelling to watch and where best to see them

Mane event A lion prowls close

to a safari vehicle. Male lions live short,
violent, intense lives, while their female
counterparts can live around six years longer
PHOTOGRAPH Dana Allen/Wilderness Safaris



LION JONATHAN SCOTT is a zoologist, wildlife writer and photographer, and presenter of the BBCs Big Cat Diary

ions are not just a symbol of Africa. For

lions is that theyre the only truly sociable big

centuries flags have been emblazoned

cats. If you find one in the wild, youll probably

with them the very flags that have led people

find 10 or even 20 in the rest of the pride.

into battle. And for good reason, as lions are the

The Marsh pride, for example, in the Maasai

ultimate warriors. You only have to watch a male

Mara, which I have followed since 1977, is now

lion sniffing the air and gazing out over its

made up of three different groups of females in

kingdom with its mane blowing in the wind to

different stages of their life. You can watch a

see it and feel it.

pride of lions for hour after hour and never get

But what most people dont realise is what

bored. Theres always something going on.

Where to stay Sanctuary Olonana, Kenya

a short, intense life a male lion often lives. They

may be the king of the beasts, terrorising almost
anything, even elephants, and armed to the

youre nothing in lion society. Its a brutal world.

And once dominant, a lion has to fight

is a luxury tented camp on the banks of the

Mara River and a superb place to see lions, as

teeth. But life for lions is ruled by the threat of

constantly to stay dominant. Just one breeding

are camps in the Okavango Delta and other

violence or exercising violence. Theres a lot

cycle, and three years as a resident male in

camps in the Moremi Game Reserve.

of roaring, threatening and cuffing without their

a pride, is a good run. A male lion that reaches

An eight-day Kenyan safari, with three

claws completely out, but they will fight to the

12 years old is an absolute star, whereas females

nights at Sanctuary Olonana, watching

death over access to territory with a group of

can often reach 18 years.

Mara lions, costs from 3,475 per person,

females they can control. If you dont breed

But for my wife, Angie, the best thing about

through Abercrombie & Kent.



U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

COURTESY OF ANJALI AND JAISAL SINGH, SHER BAGH, RANTHAMBHORE

THE TIGER IS THE

LARGEST BIG CAT
AND THE ULTIMATE
PREDATOR

Burning bright Dinner is served,

top, by the pool at Sher Bagh, near
Ranthambore National Park in
India, one of the best places to see
tigers, left. Sher Bagh offers
colonial-style decor and personal
service, right, in its peaceful,
spacious tented accommodation

TIGER BELINDA WRIGHT is the director and founder of the Wildlife

Protection Society of India (wpsi-india.org), which focuses on anti-poaching

or me, tigers are the most mesmerising

a good source of food and water. But they also

of all the worlds mammals. When you see

need protection or they will not survive in the wild

them out in the open they are outrageously

as theyve now become walking cash registers for

patterned and coloured, almost flaming, but when

organised wildlife criminals who bribe villagers to

they reach the jungle their camouflage is so good

give them information on a tigers location.

they simply vanish.

They are the largest of the big cats and the

Half of the worlds remaining tigers live in India

(around 1,500). But they are very elusive creatures

ultimate predators. To survive they need to be

and the best places to see them are where they

supremely fit as they cant depend on a pride, like

are most used to tourist vehicles, like Ranthambore

lions, but are very solitary and secretive. Their

National Park. For a more private viewing I would

favourite prey are wild boar and deer and they

suggest the mangrove forests of Sunderbans Tiger

spend hours stalking. Even so, only about one in

Reserve in West Bengal or Bandhavgarh National

10 pursuits ends in a kill, so its hard work.

Park in Madhya Pradesh.

When they mate, a male can smell a tigress is in

Where to stay Oberoi Vanyavilas

oestrus and grabs her by the neck and their mating

or Sher Bagh, both of which offer luxury tented

is very noisy and looks very aggressive. Then they

accommodation and are on the borders of

will mate constantly for a few days, many, many

Ranthambore National Park.

times. Tigresses mate with more than one partner

A 14-day Rajasthan trip, with three nights

so all the competing males think her cubs are his

at Sher Bagh and guiding with a tiger

and then wont kill them.

specialist, costs from 3,840 per person

Tigers breed well if they have enough space and

through Abercrombie & Kent.



U LT R AT R AV E L + A B E R C R O M B I E & K E N T

CHEETAH DERECK and BEVERLY JOUBERT are award-winning film-makers (wildlifefilms.co) who
have dedicated their lives to saving big cats. They are both National Geographic Explorers-in-Residence

he contrast between the cheetahs

or with a kick, so when the cheetah closes

Feburary when the grass is short. Big cats

fragility and efficiency and its tender

its eye, a black line hides its position.

are not just symbols; they are also the glue

killer aura is what fascinates us most. Their

They dont have fully retractable claws like

that holds the fabric of ecosystems together.

JAGUAR ALAN RABINOWITZ is head

of Panthera (panthera.org), which
campaigns for endangered big cats. He
set up a jaguar sanctuary in Belize

he jaguar is the Tiger of the Americas and the

speed sets them aside, but also their habit of

other cats, so when they are in full chase

If you want to understand Africa, you have

climbing up large termite mounts or fallen

their claws perform the same function as a

to understand the big cats. Theyre in real

trees to get a better vantage point. This

sprinters spikes. This is particularly important

trouble weve lost 95 per cent of them in

stocky like a sumo wrestler. Its a stalk-and-ambush

means that, as a photographer, you can

when chasing after prey that is running in

50 years. Cheetah now number under 8,000

predator that can grab and crush its prey. While other

read them when theyre on the move and

zigzags, making the cheetah turn as well.

and were really worried about them.

big cats go for the neck, jaguars kill their prey with

have a better chance of getting into position

Bigger cats often lose their prey when an

Where to stay Tswalu Kalahari (above)

a crushing blow to the spine or the skull.

for a great image.

animal does this.

in South Africas Kalahari, or Sanctuary

One key factor about cheetah is that they

Cheetah prefer open grasslands. The

third-largest of the big cats. Its actually not very

fast, but it keeps low to the ground and is massive and

But even though its such a fearsome killing

Kusini in Tanzania, which has a Serengeti

machine, I call the jaguar the reluctant warrior of the

are small. They have spots, not rosettes like

Maasai Mara in Kenya is superb for viewing,

Cheetah Project.

cat family because its the least aggressive. Lions, tigers

leopards. But most notably they have these

but private conservancies such as Olare

A 12-day safari through Tanzania,

and leopards have been responsible for thousands of

black teardrop-shaped facial markings. They

Motorogi, where there are fewer vehicles,

including three nights at Sanctuary

human deaths, but jaguars never attack humans. In

evolved these marks to confuse prey that

are even better and the cheetah density is

Kusini, costs from 5,195 per person

some communities in South America people live

might want to stab at their eyes with horns

higher. The Serengeti is also amazing in

through Abercrombie & Kent.

alongside 500lb jaguars; no one is frightened of them.

They can survive in numerous different habitats
from the Sonoran Desert in Mexico to the pampas of
northern Argentina, but they thrive best in wet jungle
and rainforest and have an affinity for water. Theyre

LEOPARD DAVE VARTY is a conservationist and the owner of Londolozi Game Reserve

(londolozi.com) beside Kruger National Park in South Africa, which specialises in leopard viewing

amazing swimmers and can cross major rivers. The

size of their territory varies depending on the size and
availability of their prey. If the prey species are large,
like in the Pantanal in South America, a jaguars

atching wild leopards is like

territory can be up to 60sq miles, whereas in Belize,

watching poetry in motion. Theyre

where they hunt smaller prey like armadillo, its more

incredibly self-sufficient, powerful and

like 10-30sq miles.

majestic, and a real thrill to watch. Probably

Although they are still endangered, jaguars are doing

their most noticeable characteristic is the

better than all the other big cats, but they are

way their eyes appear to see right through

mysterious and secretive animals. However, the

you. But theyre also very solitary animals and

Pantanal in Brazil during the latter half of the dry

highly adaptable, so you can see them in

season (August to October) is the one place where you

many different habitats. Its finding them in

are almost guaranteed a sighting. The fishermen on the

the wild thats the tricky part; its really up to

Cuiab River dont hunt them and when you are

them whether they choose to be seen or not.

watching them from a boat, they dont run away. Then,

Their incredible agility when theyre in

at night, you can follow them with a spotlight and even

trees is unique among the big cats. They can

see them hunting. And thats an incredible sight.

lift two-thirds of their own body weight into

Where to stay Pousada do Rio Mutum, an

the highest of branches if necessary, and

eco-lodge, or the simpler Porto Jofre, where guests

their hunting technique is explosive and very

sightings was a young leopardess catching

there are no guarantees of seeing these

almost always see jaguar.

exciting to watch. Their adaptability gives

an impala by dropping out of the branches of

elusive cats and the best sightings are when

A 13-night Brazil trip, with five nights at Porto

them a vast range of prey from small

a marula tree.

the animals are relaxed and have learnt to be

Jofre, and an expert jaguar guide in the

at ease around safari vehicles.

Pantanal, costs from 5,995 per person through

Abercrombie & Kent.

rodents all the way up to a nyala [large

Its always wonderful to see them in the

antelope], which a large male leopard is quite

open savannah or resting in the branches of

Where to stay Nsefu Camp, started

capable of taking down. I would say their

an ebony tree in the Sabi Sand Game

by Zambian guide Robin Pope in the

favourite prey species would be impala.

Reserve, for example, but I would also

Luangwa, or Zarafa Camp in the Selinda

recommend Luangwa National Park in

Reserve in Botswana.

All trips can be tailor-made by Abercrombie

hunting under cover of darkness. Having said

Zambia. Zarafa Camp in Botswana has some

A nine-night safari to Botswana and

& Kent (0845 485 1576; abercrombiekent.

that, I have seen them hunt during the

wonderfully special sightings and our own

Zambia, including four nights at Zarafa,

co.uk) and are inclusive of flights and

middle of the day, taking opportunities as

Londolozi Game Reserve is one of the best

costs from 7,995 per person through

private guiding.

they arise. One of my most memorable

areas to view leopards in the world. However,

Abercrombie & Kent.

Theyre very solitary creatures and prefer



Walk on the wild side

Deep within Africas fnest game reserve, Four Seasons Safari Lodge,
Serengeti offers sanctuary of comfort. Get up close and intimate
with wildlife and Maasai culture, yet always feel safe and pampered.
With refreshing Four Seasons care, our Safari Lodge promises a
luxurious respite amid your Africa adventures.
To make a reservation or fnd out more, call Abercrombie & Kent
at 0845 485 1282 or email info@abercrombiekent.co.uk
Photo by Nick Garbutt

AP

WIN A LUXURY RIVER CRUISE IN MYANMAR

Courtesy of Abercrombie & Kent, Sanctuary Retreats and Qatar Airways

THE PRIZE

THE DETAILS

Abercrombie & Kent is offering a seven-night itinerary in Myanmar

The prize is a seven-night cruise

on the luxurious river yacht Sanctuary Ananda. Custom-built by local

for two people sharing a suite,

shipbuilders, the riverboat has been designed specially with a shallow

and includes international flights

draft so that it can cruise both the Upper and Lower Ayeryarwady and

with Qatar Airways, private

Chindwin rivers, and access remote villages and temples. Inside, the

transfers, excursions, meals

boat is far from traditional, featuring 20 spacious cabins with five-star

and selected drinks. The prize

comforts such as monsoon showers and air-conditioning; elegant

is valid from January 10

dining rooms with Burmese and international cuisine; and on-board

to December 15 2015 (excluding

facilities such as a pool and spa. The river yacht which launches this

the April 4 departure) and

November is by far the most comfortable way to explore the

is subject to availability.

countrys beautiful temples, rich culture and welcoming population;

the seven-day itineraries are from Mandalay to Bagan, or Bagan to

HOW TO ENTER

Mandalay, return, and include on-board musical performances,

Simply go to telegraph.co.uk/

lectures and cultural demonstrations, and Qatar Airways flights.

myanmar. You will need to leave

your name, address, telephone

ABOUT MYANMAR

number and a valid email

Myanmar formerly known as Burma is a fast-evolving Eastern

address. All entries must

destination, offering glorious landscapes, a Buddhist culture in which

be received by midnight on

music, arts and craftsmanship thrive, and towns unspoilt by modern

October 9 2014. For full

tourism. Once a final frontier of adventure travel, the country has

terms and conditions see

flourished under the gradual influx of tourists; visitors come for the

telegraph.co.uk/myanmar.

culture and architecture, but their memories are usually of its

graceful, warm people, verdant landscapes and vibrant towns.
Buddhist temples abound with Bagans 4,000 stupas a rival to many
of the worlds most famous religious sites and much of its
population still wears traditional dress. It also has an abundance of

New way to see Burma The Sanctuary Ananda (centre) has been

ancient sites to visit, from temples dotted across hundreds of miles of

built to transport guests in great comfort; on-board extras include

countryside to a Golden Rock which teeters at the edge of a chasm.

a pool and a spa (above). Top: Monks walk amid golden stupas



Grey Glacier, Torres del Paine

Valle del Elqui, Atacama

If you can imagine being

in a place where mountains
are made of water,
come to Chile.
if not...
come to Chile.

For more information about a tailor-made trip to Chile, please call:

Abercrombie & Kent on 0845 485 1137 or email info@abercrombiekent.co.uk

LOT

15

BID FOR A LIFE-CHANGING HOLIDAY

At our Ultratravel 100 awards in May, John Sankoh received a standing ovation after an inspiring speech about his
work with young people in Sierra Leone. Here, he explains why bidding for a luxury holiday in our Silent Auction could
not just enhance your own life next year, but transform the lives of children and youths around the world for ever

hen I was invited to speak

at the Ultratravel 100 awards
in London, I was thrilled.
Not only was the event a wonderful
celebration of travel, but it also gave me
a chance to talk about an exciting
international development agency that
this year will benefit from the awards
annual silent auction, in which we hope
you will bid.
Restless Development, one of the most
incredible global development agencies to
emerge in recent times, is unlike any
other organisation because it is led
entirely by young people on the ground.
It specialises in training young people in
all sorts of fields so they can first help
themselves, and then use their skills to
transform their communities. The work
they do changes not just a few lives, but
that of hundreds of thousands of children
and young people around the world.
Whether leading post-conflict
development in my home country of Sierra
Leone, tackling HIV in Zambia or training
thousands of unemployed young people in
Uganda so they can find work, Restless
Development creates opportunities for
young people so they can create change.
In the past 28 years these young people
have developed into a network of 17,000
young adults, who have reached out and
helped more than seven million children

Working for change John Sankoh at the awards;

editor Charles Starmer-Smith with Alex Polizzi;
Restless Development volunteers in Sierra Leone

and youths in Africa and Asia. Growing up

in Sierra Leone, I have seen the good that
they do first-hand. When I was a child,
the country was being devastated by
conflict. For 10 years my family had to
run and take shelter wherever we could.
When, finally, in 2002, one of the most
vicious wars that Africa has ever seen
came to an end, I was 16. Only then could
I at last believe that things might be a bit
more normal: that I wouldnt have to
sleep under my bed every night, or at bus
stops, as I did during the times we had to
keep moving for fear of being killed.
While many charities failed to listen
to young people, Restless Development
did, working with us and empowering
us to lead the peace process and the
development of our own country. Together
we have created extraordinary change.
Today, though, we are up against yet
another challenge. The country is
dealing with something weve never had
to face before: the worst Ebola outbreak
in history. Restless Development is being
called on to support the communities
that have been affected, and lead the
response to try and stem this terrible
disease. At the moment our work is not
only life-changing but life-saving.
You can help to raise funds for our
work by bidding for a holiday. So please
bid generously. Thanks and good luck.

HOW TO BID
We are inviting you, our readers, to bid for the
21 lots listed on the following page, erring, please,
on the generous side. To take part, send your bid,
stating clearly which prize and lot number you are
bidding for, how much you are bidding, and your
name, address, email address and telephone
number, to ultrabids@restlessdevelopment.org
The winning bid for each lot will be the highest
received by Restless Development by midnight
on Sunday October 19 2014. The highest bidder
for each lot will be contacted and asked to send
payment within two weeks. On receipt of the
cheque, each winner will be sent the prize
vouchers by registered post. Rooms and flights
are subject to availability and, unless otherwise
stated, all flights are economy class. Each holiday
is for two, and is subject to separate terms and
conditions, in addition to those published
overleaf; these are available at telegraph.co.uk/
auction or by emailing conditions@
restlessdevelopment.org
For more about Restless Development,
please see restlessdevelopment.org

LCKI8KI8M<C 

LOT

LOT

LOT

11

THE LOTS ON OFFER

Lot 1 A week in the

at The Boma, one Vulture

London, voted by Ultratravel

Three nights b&b for two in

Lot 15 A stay at Sir

a Bungalow with plunge pool

Best Hotel in the World

Culture Lunch at MaKuwa-Kuwa

readers as the best new hotel

a Suite at the Kempinski Grand

Richard Bransons safari

at Huvafen Fushi Maldives,

Donated by Jumeirah Hotels

Restaurant, and airport

in the world.

Hotel des Bains St Moritz.

camp in Kenya

including return transfers

& Resorts and Emirates

transfers from Victoria Falls.

Minimum bid 500

Minimum bid 800

Donated by Virgin Limited

to the island from Mal

Five nights b&b, for two, in

Minimum bid 2,000

Edition

International Airport by

Lot 7 A stay in Bangkok

Lot 12 A stay in Istanbul

Four nights for two at Mahali

speedboat.
Minimum bid 500

at the Burj Al Arab in Dubai

Lot 4 A stay in the

Donated by Kempinski

Donated by Kempinski

Mzuri safari camp, including all

voted by Ultratravel readers

Best Hotel in Europe

Three nights b&b for two in

Three nights b&b for two in

meals, drinks, daily game drives

as the best hotel in the world

Donated by Four Seasons

an Executive Suite at the Siam

a One Bedroom Suite at the

and return road transfers from

Lot 19 A stay at Niyama

and Business Class flights

Hotels and Resorts

Kempinski Hotel Bangkok.

Ciragan Palace Kempinski

Mara North Airstrip.

Maldives

from the UK.

Two nights b&b, for two, in

Minimum bid 800

Istanbul.

Minimum bid 2,000

Donated by Per Aquum

Minimum bid 8,000

a Deluxe Room at the Four

Minimum bid 800

Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Lot 8 A stay in Abu Dhabi

Lot 2 A seven-night

voted by Ultratravel readers as

Donated by Kempinski

Mediterranean cruise

the best hotel in Europe.

Donated by Cunard

Minimum bid 500

Seven nights, for two, in a

Resorts and Spas

Lot 16 A week in St Lucia

Two nights b&b for two in

Lot 13 A stay in the

Donated by Anse Chastanet

a Beach Studio at Niyama

Three nights b&b for two in

Maldives

Resort

Maldives.

a Khaleej Suite at the Emirates

Donated by Banyan Tree

Seven nights half-board for two

Minimum bid 400

Palace Abu Dhabi.

Hotels & Resorts

in a Premium room at Anse

Minimum bid 800

Five nights, full board for two,

Chastanet Resort on the

Lot 20 A stay in Dubai

in an Oceanview Villa at Banyan

Caribbean island of St Lucia.

Donated by Per Aquum

Minimum bid 1,500

Resorts and Spas

Brittania Balcony Stateroom

Lot 5 A stay in the Best

on board Cunards Queen

Hotel in the Americas

Victoria. The prize includes all

Donated by Four Seasons

Lot 9 A stay in Berlin

Tree Vabbinfaru, including

on-board meals, entertainment

Hotels and Resorts

Donated by Kempinski

airport transfers in the Maldives

and use of the spa. The cruise

Two nights b&b over a

Three nights b&b for two in

a 20-minute speedboat ride

Lot 17 A stay in a luxury

a Palm Deluxe Room at the

departs from Venice, Athens

weekend for two in a City-View

a Suite at the Hotel Adlon

from Mal International Airport.

villa in the Maldives

Desert Palm Dubai.

or Rome. Return UK flights

Deluxe king room, in the Four

Kempinski in Berlin.

Minimum bid 2,000

Donated by Park Hyatt

Minimum bid 250

are included.

Seasons Hotel New York, voted

Minimum bid 800

Minimum bid 3,000

by Ultratravel readers as the

Lot 3 A safari at

One nights b&b for two in

Maldives Hadahaa
Lot 14 A golfing holiday

Five nights half-board for two

Lot 21 A stay in Provence

best hotel in the Americas.

Lot 10 A stay in Vienna

in Scotland

in a Park Villa at Park Hyatt

Donated by Hotel Crillon

Minimum bid 500

Donated by Kempinski

Donated by Gleneagles

Maldives Hadahaa.

le Brave

Three nights b&b for two in

Two nights for two at

Minimum bid 1,500

Three nights for two in a Deluxe

Victoria Falls
Donated by Victoria Falls

Lot 6 A stay in the Best

a Palais Suite at the Palais

Gleneagles the home of the

Safari Lodge

New Hotel in the World

Hansen Kempinski Vienna.

2014 Ryder Cup including

Lot 18 A stay at Huvafen

room at Hotel Crillon le Brave in

Provence, including breakfast,

Four nights b&b, for six, in a

Donated by Rosewood

Minimum bid 800

breakfast, gourmet dinner

Fushi Maldives

a bottle of Billecart-Salmon

three-bedroomed Safari Suite at

London

and two rounds of golf for

Donated by Per Aquum

champagne, a picnic for two

Victoria Falls Safari Lodge in

Two nights b&b for two in a

Lot 11 A stay in St Moritz

each guest.

Resorts and Spas

and use of the hotels tandem.

Zimbabwe including a dinner

Premier Suite at Rosewood

Donated by Kempinski

Minimum bid 600

Two nights b&b for two in

Minimum bid 500

TERMS AND CONDITIONS

1 All lots are subject to their own separate terms and conditions. Please familiarise yourself with the terms and conditions for each lot, which will be posted at ultra.travel/auction. 2 This auction is open to residents of the UK, Channel Islands and
Isle of Man aged 18 years or over, except employees of Restless Development, Ultratravel and Telegraph Media Group Limited, their families, agents or anyone else professionally associated with the auction. 3 Details of how to participate form part of the terms and conditions.
By submitting a bid in this auction, participants agree to be bound by these terms and conditions. 4 The decision of the judges is final and no correspondence will be entered into. 5 Bidders may bid for more than one lot, but may make only one bid for each lot. Once submitted,
bids may not be withdrawn and you acknowledge that once the Promoter has confirmed you are the highest bidder, you have entered into a legally binding contract to buy the lot you have bid for from the Promoter. 6 Bids must be above the reserve listed for the lot being
bid for; in pounds sterling; and received by the Promoter by midnight on Sunday October 19 2014. 7 Successful bidders will be notified within seven days of the closing date of the auction. 8 Late, illegible, incomplete, defaced or corrupt bids, and bids below the reserve for the
lot being bid for, will not be accepted. 9 The successful bid for any one lot will be the highest received by the closing date. If two or more bids equal the highest bid, the lot shall be awarded to the bid received first. 10 Successful bidders must remit their payment for the
relevant lot within 14 days of notification. 11 If the Promoter is unable to contact a winning bidder within seven days of the closing of the auction, or if the payment is not received within 14 days of a winning bidder being notified, the Promoter reserves the right to award the
lot to the next highest bidder. Should there be two or more bids equalling the next highest bid, the lot shall be awarded in accordance with Condition 9, above. The Promoter reserves the right to carry on awarding the lot to the next highest bidder until the reserve is reached.
12 If the Promoter is not able to award a lot for any reason, the Promoter reserves the right to withdraw the lot from the auction. 13 The lots as described are available on the date of publication and are subject to availability. 14 Lots are not transferable and there are no cash
alternatives. 15 All holiday vouchers must be used within one year of the successful bidders being notified and are subject to their own separate terms and conditions available at telegraph.co.uk/auction. 16 Events may occur that render the auction impossible due to reasons
beyond the control of the Promoter; accordingly, the Promoter may at its absolute discretion vary or amend the auction and the entrant agrees no liability shall attach to the Promoter as a result. 17 Ultratravel is responsible for the publication of this auction. All aspects
connected with the provision of the lots are the responsibility of the Promoter: Restless Development, 7 Wootton Street, London SE1 8TG. Registered charity No 1127488. For full details of the Promoters terms and conditions, please email conditions@restlessdevelopment.com

 LCKI8KI8M<C

STEVE DUNLOP

a one-bedroom Duplex Suite

SMALL SHIPS BIG EXPERIENCES WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA

Islands of the Indian Ocean

Explore the Maldives and undiscovered islands of the Indian Ocean including Aldabra aboard the MS Island Sky
11th December 2015 to 5th January 2016
Escape the British winter and enjoy the warmth and beauty of the Indian Ocean aboard the MS Island Sky as
she undertakes exactly the type of itinerary that suits her many talents best,
exploring the islands and atolls of the Maldives and Seychelles, two of the
worlds most pristine and picturesque archipelagos.
With our purpose built Zodiacs we will land on otherwise inaccessible
beaches, explore vast lagoons and coral reefs and encounter some of the most
extraordinarily beautiful tropical scenery to be found anywhere in the world. To many
travellers this region is without equal, having remained largely free from the ravages of mass
tourism. Obviously, such beauty and serenity is best enjoyed with a small number of travelling
companions. After all, it would be disappointing to fnd yourself in the company of hundreds on what
was a deserted beach. The MS Island Sky is the ideal vessel, and with a maximum of 114 passengers she offers
all the comforts of a larger vessel, but with the added luxury of a small number of passengers.

ne of the many beautiful islands

we visit is Aldabra, the worlds
largest coral atoll and a World
Heritage site. Totally untouched
by the modern world, Aldabra has been
described by Jacques Cousteau as the last
unprofaned sanctuary on this planet. Being
one of the most diffcult places in the world
to access and a lack of freshwater has saved
Aldabra from any tourism development.
There is no landing strip and the only viable
means of reaching this untouched region is
by ship and the MS Island Sky is one of only
a handful of vessels allowed to call at this
unique atoll. Aldabra is the last breeding
ground of the giant tortoise and in addition
to seeing some of these endearing creatures
you should encounter dolphins, turtles and
whales as well as countless birds including
the fightless rail, the last fightless bird in the
Indian Ocean.
Leaving the Seychelles we will make for the
Comoros and the French island of Nzwani
and then on to Mozambique, one of the
worlds best kept travel secrets. Sailing north
along the African coast, we shall then reach
Tanzania. Both countries offer exceptional
national parks along their coastlines. The
last island on our odyssey will be Zanzibar
where we will explore its labyrinth of

serpentine alleyways lined with charming

Arabic dwellings and flled with the treasures
of the East that established its fame; cloves,
cinnamon and vanilla. We have many years
of experience in operating the vessel in the
region which combined with the expertise of
our onboard expedition team will result in a
truly memorable voyage.

The Itinerary in brief

Day 1 - London to Male, Maldives. Fly by

hope to include visits to Meemu, Gaafu and

Kaafu Atolls. Our onboard expedition team
will be on hand to lead guided walking tours
to explore the birds and wildlife on land
whilst our snorkel master will take us to
some exceptional reefs.

Days 8 to 10 - At sea. Three days at sea to

relax onboard as we cross the Indian Ocean
to the glorious islands of the Seychelles.
Attend the daily lectures and a host of other
activities which will be arranged onboard.

scheduled indirect fight.

Day 11 - Mahe, Seychelles. After breakfast

Day 2 - Male, Maldives. Arrive this afternoon
and transfer to our hotel for an overnight stay.

join the island drive to the nations capital of

Victoria with its own Big Ben, the Botanic
Gardens and the ruins of a Capuchin mission.

Day 3 - Male, Maldives. Enjoy a relaxing

morning using the hotel facilities either
enjoying the beach or pool area. This
afternoon we will transfer to the MS Island Sky.

Days 4 to 7 - Maldives. We spend four days

exploring the beauty of the archipelago.
This vast area of ocean is scattered with
staggeringly beautiful dots of land
surrounded by a cerulean sea. It offers some
of the fnest lagoons, beaches and coral
reefs in the world. Our day to day schedule
will be left in the capable hands of the
Captain and Expedition Leader, but we

Day 12 - Aride & La Digue, Seychelles. Sail

at frst light to the islands to the north of
Mahe. Our frst call will be at Aride one of the
fnest and most important seabird islands in
the Indian Ocean. Over one million seabirds
breed on the island including tropical
shearwater and roseate tern and also fve
species unique to the Seychelles such as the
Seychelles warbler and Seychelles magpie
robin. We will enjoy a walk on the island
amongst the native woodland. Sail during
lunch to nearby La Digue. There is a hint of
Henry Moore in the huge granite boulders

that lie like giant sculptures on the brilliant

white beaches of the island. Tour the forested
nature reserve and the LUnion Estate, a
superbly restored 19th century colonial house.

Day 13 - Praslin & Curieuse, Seychelles.

Spend the morning on Praslin. We will explore
the Vallee de Mai, the last remnant of the
original high-canopied Seychelles palm forest
and home to the coco de mer. We will walk its
paths looking out for the rare black parrot and
enjoying its natural beauty which so
overpowered General Gordon. Sail over lunch
to Curieuse a rugged island which is an
important nesting site for Hawksbill turtles.

Day 14 - St Joseph, Seychelles. We will

spend the day exploring the island of St
Joseph, an ideal spot for some
beachcombing, nature walks and bird
watching. In the islands lagoon there is a
huge population of stingrays, healthy
numbers of turtles and giant blue mud crabs.

Day 15 - Alphonse, Seychelles. Wake up on

Christmas morning in the Alphonse group of
islands located directly south of the
Amirantes. We will call into Alphonse
regarded by many as one of the most
beautiful of all the 115 islands in the
Seychelles. Its circular lagoon offers perfect

Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure.

BOOK EARLY AND SAVE 500 PER PERSON

snorkelling and on an island walk we hope to

spot the extremely rare magpie robin.

Day 16 - Farquhar. We spend the day anchoring

off Farquhar where we will use our Zodiacs to
explore the sparkling lagoon of this remote
atoll ringed island of coconut and casuarina
trees. The island is a haven for many species of
migratory birds providing us with a delightful
afternoon of bird watching or snorkelling.

Day 17 - Cosmoledo, Seychelles. Arrive this

morning at Cosmoledo where a huge ring of
twelve islands circle a lagoon. Many of the
atolls are still to be surveyed and we shall
explore some of them by Zodiac. This is an
important bird area with all three species of
booby found in the Seychelles, sooty tern and
great frigatebirds. We may also spot the
green turtles, skinks and the Madagascar
banded lizard.
Day 18 - Aldabra, Seychelles. Go ashore to
the islands referred to by Sir Julian Huxley as
One of natures treasures and should belong
to the whole world. Aldabra is unique and
we are privileged visitors by kind permission
of the Seychelles government. Every time we
call at what is believed to be the worlds
largest atoll we fnd something new of
interest. Sightings have been made of the
extremely rare Whitethroated rail, and indeed
whilst exploring by Zodiac it is diffcult to
know in which direction to look. The clear
blue seas abound with colourful life, the skies
are alive with varied birdlife and ashore giant
land tortoises forage.

Day 19 - Assumption, Seychelles. Close to

Aldabra is the island of Assumption. Early in
the 20th century the island was ruthlessly
plundered for its vast deposits of guano.
Happily, peace has returned to the islands and
the wildlife of rare birds and green turtles are
once again in abundance.
Day 20 - Anjouan, Comoros. This afternoon
fnds us in Nzwani, better known by its French
name of Anjouan. It is an incredibly
picturesque island with forested hillsides and
rivers tumbling down to the sea. An island
drive will include some beauty spots.

Day 21 - Pemba, Mozambique. This afternoon

we will reach Africa and the coastline of
Mozambique. We will arrive at Pemba which is
located on an enormous turquoise bay ringed
by groves of Africas botanical icon, the baobab
tree. Enjoy a stroll in town with its Portuguese
history. Tonight we will welcome in the New
Year as we cruise the Mozambique Coast.

MS Island Sky
The MS Island Sky is one of the fnest small ships in the world. With a maximum passenger
capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the beneft of unusually large accommodation,
public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some
have a private balcony. The feeling of luxury is enhanced by the wood panelling and brass,
which predominates throughout the vessel conveying the atmosphere of a private yacht.
The spacious and fnely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and
a single seating dining room. Outside there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in
warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the top deck there
is a further observation and sun deck. The atmosphere onboard is akin to a private yacht
or country hotel. A little music in the lounge or bar after dinner, talks from the onboard
speakers, informative port briefngs from our Expedition Leader and of course good food
which may be enjoyed leisurely in the attractive dining room, all contribute to making any
voyage aboard the MS Island Sky a memorable experience. After a day ashore you will
return to the comfort and peace of a well-run and exceedingly comfortable ship.

Day 22 - Quirimbas Archipelago,

Mozambique. Travelling north along the coast
we enjoy a day in the Quirimbas National Park,
a coastal park set aside recently with
assistance from the World Wildlife Fund and
one of Mozambiques most biologically diverse
regions. We hope to make an expedition stop
to view extensive reef and islet complexes
offering outstanding snorkelling amidst 400
species of fsh. We may also visit Ibo, a former
Portuguese island of once-elegant palatial
mansions. The colony owed its wealth to
18th-century slave and ivory trading. The
battlements of the pentagonal main fortress
house renowned silversmiths today. Local
guides will escort us around the fort and for
the birders a separate walk will be arranged.

Day 23 - At sea. A fnal day of leisure and

time to relax onboard as we sail to our
penultimate port of call, Zanzibar.

Day 24 - Zanzibar, Tanzania. Here the

colourful harbour will be crowded with dhows,
very much setting the scene for our visit to the
Arab style city with its long narrow streets,
bazaars, houses with overhanging balconies
and intricately carved doorways. On a
morning tour soak up the timeless
atmosphere of Stone Town. The afternoon is
free to relax and explore independently or
join an optional tour to a spice farm.

Day 25 - Dar es Salaam, Tanzania to London.

Disembark after breakfast and return to
London by scheduled indirect fight.

Prices and Inclusions

Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy range from 10495 for a standard
forward suite to 12195 for an owners balcony suite. Suites for sole use from 14695.
Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, overnight hotel accommodation in Male on breakfast
only basis, 22 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on a full board basis including wine, beer and soft drinks with
lunch and dinner onboard, shore excursions, expedition team, transfers, port taxes, gratuities onboard and
whilst on excursions.
Not Included: Travel Insurance, visas, optional excursion in Zanzibar.
NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change. Flight schedules have not been released at the time of going to
print and therefore the itinerary is subject to change on their release. All special offers are subject to availability.
Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations.

Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

As well as a rich indigenous culture and glorious landscapes, Vietnam today has gourmet restaurants and boutique hotels as

Urban high The hip Chill Sky Bar

overlooking Ho Chi Minh City
Photographs by Aaron Joel Santos

 LCKI8KI8M<C

METROPOLIS NOW

lavish as any other country in the East. E Jane Dickson travels with local experts to get under the skin of Asias new luxury hotspot

LCKI8KI8M<C 

TRAVELIFEMAGAZINE.COM

Eastern elegance Clockwise

from top left: the Hotel Metropole;
Fusion Maia in Danang; crab in
chantilly cream at Hanois La Verticale;
Hanois old quarter

team rising from vast kettles of pho, the fragrant noodle

broth that fuels Vietnam, gives a wavy, hallucinatory edge
to street life in Hanoi. Pavement cafs are no-frills affairs
a scatter of plastic stools no higher than an upturned
bucket. Crouched, knees to chin, I am doing my best to
convey noodles, slippery as elvers, from bowl to mouth
with chopsticks.
What age are you? asks the caf proprietor, a
grandmother who stirs soup, semaphores to customers
and ushers children out of the way in one graceful
movement. Clearly, she thinks she has a giant baby on her
hands and kindly takes time to demonstrate the rapid stirand-schloop technique required for safe ingestion of pho.
The scene swirling about me in the Vietnamese capital
is so various, so densely packed with incident, that it
seems the life of five cities has been squeezed into a
single, jaw-dropping spectacle. Scooters, impossibly laden
with great cantilevered piles of produce, choke the narrow
streets in a solid, honking stream. A farmer sputters past
on his way to market with a pig carcass riding pillion. A
coffin wobbles on the back of a trishaw. Theres a hawker
staggering under the weight of a shoulder pole hung with

votives for ancestor worship. And then, as if choreographed

by Rodgers and Hammerstein, a blur of moving foamy
pink blossom forms into a phalanx of schoolchildren
bearing peach trees to celebrate the lunar new year.
Although its just 50 years since the American War
brought Vietnam to its knees, its recovery has been
spectacular. The liberalising effects of doi moi, the
economic reforms implemented in 1986 to create
a socialist-oriented market economy, are everywhere
apparent. And while it is a funny kind of socialism
there is, for example, no free education free-market
competition is joyously embraced. (A shop front
advertising High Class Laundry is trumped by its
neighbour: High, High Class Laundry.)
Im privileged to spend a morning at the granite
acropolis where the communist revolutionary leader
Ho Chi Minh has lain in state since his death in 1969
with Dr Nguyen Huu Ngoc, a distinguished historian who
fought French colonialists and American aggressors
alongside Uncle Ho and later became his official
translator. Ho Chi Minh, Dr Nguyen tells me, was
essentially a nationalist, a man of the people. But he

LCKI8KI8M<C 

didnt believe in class struggle. And he would have hated

that mausoleum.
What Uncle Ho whose army marched on flip flops
made from motor tyres would make of the queues
outside the Hanoi branches of Gucci and Christian
Louboutin is anybodys guess. Vietnam has effectively
transformed from a centuries-old agrarian economy to a
service-based economy in the space of a generation. This
rapid social and economic change per capita GDP has
doubled in four years has created an elite hungry for
luxury. Owners of Bentleys and BMWs are proud to sit
calmly behind their wheels in the sea of scooters. Bridal
parties, shiny with hope and hand-sewn sequins, arrange
themselves for wedding pictures on the marble steps of
western-style shopping malls. And, significantly, the new
spirit of openness has sparked a radical overhaul of
tourism; the lifting of movement regulations in 1997
allowed visitors to travel freely within the country and,
more recently, the ministry for tourism has concentrated
investment in the lavish sector.

beach strip is Lang Co, a six-mile curve of pink-gold sand

at the base of the Truong Son mountains. For anyone
harbouring a From Here to Eternity fantasy of rolling surf
and misty peaks, this is the place to indulge it. In the
neighbouring village of Cu Du, a fisherman sculls me
across a smooth, jade lagoon in a wicker coracle to inspect
the venerable mangrove that is said to ensnare souls in its
woody tentacles.
By mid-afternoon clouds are boiling up the valley like
steam from a giant wok; Im driven up the aptly named
Sea Cloud mountain, slamming around hairpin bends to
Hai Van, Vietnams highest pass. An immense, faded
billboard showing proletarian heroics and crumbling,
bullet-pocked pill boxes are reminders that this was the
official frontier between communist North Vietnam and
the American-controlled South. At the summit, Vietnamese
visitors take me for an American. Ho Chi Minh, they tell
me, always said that ordinary US citizens were opposed
to the American war. They seem to believe it.
If the political border between North and South
Vietnam has been effaced, cultural differences remain
distinct. Travelling south, the food is hotter, the mindset
more laid-back. And the weather is incomparably better.
Ninh Thuan Province, the region with the least rainfall
and most sunny days in Vietnam, is also the least
developed, but the broad corniche along its spectacular,
rugged shoreline suggests its gearing up to be the
Vietnamese Riviera. For the moment its wildness is part of
the attraction jaguars can still be spotted in Nui Chua
National Park and green sea turtles appear almost
luminous in the clear waters of the adjoining marine

nce the preserve of gap-year backpackers and

specialist trips for US Army vets, Vietnam
now boasts five-star hotels and resorts to
rival the most luxurious destinations in
Thailand or Malaysia. Infrastructure in
less visited parts of the country is still rudimentary,
but a growing number of bespoke travel services have
opened up Vietnams 1,900 miles of coastline, unspoiled
tropical jungle and ancient heritage to a new wave of
upmarket travellers.
China Beach in Danang, capital of the South Central
region, was once the preserve of US troops on R&R. Now
its planted with parasols and boasts a Colin Montgomerie
golf course, a Michel Roux restaurant (La Maison 1888 at
the Intercontinental), and flop-and-relax resorts. Spas
offer guests VIP suites and caviar facials. Along the
streets, hawkers sell handbags with faux European luxury
labels and price tags that are a fraction of the real things.
Not all of the coastline, thankfully, is as international
as Danang. Just 40 minutes drive away, in Quang Nam
Province, is a world in which water buffalo pull
geometrical plough-lines through lime green paddies,
and where life goes on as it did 100 years ago. Here, at the
celebrated Red Bridge Restaurant, on an inlet of the Thu
Bon River, I join a Vietnamese cookery class. Its
something of an eye opener to see the skill and dexterity
that goes into fashioning the humble spring roll. Our
tutor, Thanh, cuts no corners we are required to make
our own rice paper, steaming thin layers of batter on
stretched muslin but he cheerfully accepts the
limitations of his fumbling students. One Vietnamese
minute, he says, tapping his watch, that would be about
two hours in European time.
Rising, dreamlike, from the waterlands, the former
trading port of Hoi An was effectively marooned in the
19th century by the silting of the Thu Bon River. Now a
Unesco World Heritage Site, the town is a perfectly
preserved architectural cache of pagodas, temples and
merchant dwellings strung along the estuary. Immaculate
shop fronts and pedestrianised streets seem almost
Disneyfied after the chaos of Hanoi; an extravagantly
moustached shopkeeper shrugs charmingly when I find
him sprinkling the dust of ages on antique ceramics.
Only yards from the main drag, however, life goes on as it
has for centuries. In the 17th-century Fujian Assembly
Hall, a shy couple prays before the goddess of fertility and
her 12 midwives. Traditional meeting houses are filled
with the distinctive click and swipe of mah-jong tiles.
Hoi An is famed for its express tailoring and punters
are sized up, literally, at a glance. Before I can say, Let
me think about it, Im pinned and pleated into
shimmering silk. The workmanship is superb and the
finished garment can be collected the same day, although
it might be a good idea to bring along a favourite piece as
a template; local style works a flouncy, Eighties vibe.
The South Central Coasts most secluded and exclusive

 LCKI8KI8M<C

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Sensual pleasures From top: the Red Bridge

Restaurant and Cookery School in Hoi An;
fine food at Le Beaulieu restaurant in Hanoi;
rice terraces in North Vietnam; the exclusive
54 Traditions gallery in Hanoi

reserve. At Po Klong Garai, a pilgrimage site for the Cham

people, the salt breeze has softened the edges of
fantastical sandstone towers. A few miles down the road,
I stop at a Buddhist pagoda under construction, where
prefabricated concrete dragons have flashing electric
eyes. Workmen, untroubled by health and safety, allow me
to climb to the top of the unfinished building where I
share Buddhas view of the countryside, a patchwork of
paddies, salt pans and shining carpets of dried shrimp
(the main ingredient for the regions famous fish sauce).
In contrast to this hard-hacked region, the Mekong
Delta is a kind of tropical Eden, an allegorical illustration
of fecundity. Swapping the river boat for a bike, I explore
a lacework of tributaries bordered by orchards where
unfeasibly large jackfruit hang across my path.
Ho Chi Minh City (old Saigon) is the exclamation mark
at the end of my odyssey, a sky-scraping city crackling
with entrepreneurial energy. There are eight million
people and four million motorbikes; all of which, it seems,
turn out for the nightly fast living, a kind of petrolhead
passeggiata, where the young and the restless zoom round
the boulevards, just because they can. Crossing the road
feels like a senseless act of bravado (the trick is to walk
out and trust theyll drive round you; dither and youre
dead). Far more fun to tour the city on the back of a Vespa.
With a thrilling rev and a small yelp, I join the strobing
slipstream of red tail lights. Vietnam right now is having
the ride of its life. Itd be a shame to miss the action.
A nine-day all-inclusive journey with Brown & Hudson
(0203 358 0110; brownandhudson.com) exploring the length
of Vietnam, staying in luxury hotels (see overleaf), costs
from 15,300 per person, including business-class flights,
transfers, activities and specialist guides in each destination.

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THE ULTRA GUIDE TO VIETNAM

HANOI

contemporary art scene. Photography,

philosophy and a restaurant bursting

Park Hyatt, Ho Chi Minh City

WHERE TO STAY

paintings and sculpture, frequently with

with healthy options make pampering

(0084 8 3824 1234; saigon.park.hyatt.

Sofitel Legend Metropole

a political edge.

feel oddly virtuous.

com; doubles from 158). Traditional

(0084 4 3826 6919; sofitel-legend.com;

WHERE TO EAT

WHERE TO EAT

deep comfort in the citys best location.

doubles from 111). An independent

La Verticale (0084 4 3944 6317;

Red Bridge Restaurant and

A female-only floor is popular with

state of orderly luxury in the chaos of

verticale-hanoi.com). Didier Corlou,

Cookery School, Hoi An (0084

women travelling alone.

Hanoi. Charlie Chaplin honeymooned

former head chef at the Metropole,

510 393 3222; visithoian.com).

WHAT TO DO

here, and Joan Baez sang through

celebrates Hanois French influences in

Light, fragrant local food with produce

Vietnam Vespa Adventures,

1972s Christmas Bombing in its

an extraordinary fusion of Vietnamese

sourced from its organic garden.

Ho Chi Minh City (0084 122 299

underground bunker. It has offered

flavours and Gallic savoir faire. An

La Maison 1888, Intercontinental

3585; vietnamvespaadventures.com).

colonial high luxury since 1907, with

11-course tasting menu includes foie

Sun Peninsula, Danang (0084 511

A knowledgeable guide to whizz you

immaculate service and imaginative

gras with lemongrass, lobster with

393 8888; danang.intercontinental.

around the citys points of historical

extras, such as a chocolate buffet

green rhubarb and vanilla sauce, and

com). Michel Rouxs new, classic

interest, including Gustave Eiffels

showcasing Vietnams grand cru

black sesame ice cream.

French restaurant is run by head chef

soaring Post Office and the moving

chocolate varieties.

Dons Bistro (0084 4 3719 2828;

Stphane Colliet, formerly sous chef

memorial to Thich Quang Duc, the

WHAT TO DO

dons-bistro.com). Laid-back brasserie

of the Waterside Inn. Its set in a

Buddhist monk whose self-immolation

Temple of Literature Quoc Tu Giam

with award-winning food on the

colonial-style house overlooking the

shocked the world in 1963.

St, Dong Da District. A well-preserved

shores of the West Lake. Enjoy

sea; open for dinner only.

Chill Sky Bar, Ho Chi Minh City

11th-century Confucian university

jazz and Cuban cigars on the

the countrys first which honours

rooftop terrace.

470). Brand new beach resort with

THE SOUTH

Twenty-seven floors up, Saigons

Vietnams finest scholars and literary

Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 Hang Dieu).

a commitment to sustainable luxury.

WHERE TO STAY

hippest cocktail bar offers unbeatable

greats. The pagodas, which seem to

By popular consent, the best street

Fabulously romantic at night, and an

Amanoi, Vinh Hy (0084 68 377 0777;

views across the city at sunset.

float amid incense, are surrounded

food in town. Try the sinus-clearing

emphasis on privacy by day. Beach

amanresorts.com; doubles from 537).

WHERE TO EAT

by ponds and gardens fragrant

noodle broth with beef, peanuts,

pavilions have timber decking with

For now, Amanoi feels like a pioneer on

Blanchy Street, Ho Chi Minh City

with frangipani.

fresh mint and lime.

pools, hot tubs and canopied day-beds.

Vietnams wild frontier. Curved grey

(0084 8 3823 8793; blanchystreet.com).

Fusion Maia Danang (0084 511 396

roofs of enormous pavilions disappear

Chef Martin Brito, formerly of Nobu,

Thanh Chuong Viet Palace (0084 4

(0084 8 3827 2372; chillsaigon.com).

2991 2970; http://thanhchuongartist.

THE CENTRAL COAST

7999; maiadanang.fusion-resorts.com;

into the granite-strewn landscape;

London, has his own distinctive take

com.vn). Vernacular buildings brought

WHERE TO STAY

doubles from 280). Clean lines and a

swimming pools sit within natural rock

on Japanese cuisine. The wagyu beef

stone by stone from across Vietnam

Banyan Tree, Lang Co (0084 54 369

serene atmosphere at this small spa

formations. A sleek little beach club

with truffle teriyaki is terrific; the sushi

and set in beautifully planted gardens

5888; banyantree.com; doubles from

resort. First-rate massages, a holistic

has kayaks for exploring sea caves.

is the best in Saigon.

by artist-curator Thanh Chuong.

The water-puppet theatre is a great
hit with children.
WHERE TO SHOP
54 Traditions (0084 4 3175 0194;
54traditions.com.vn). This boutique
sells museum-quality antiques and
indigenous crafts from Vietnams
54 ethnic groups. Theyre pricey, but
profits help to support development
in rural communities.
Art Vietnam (0084 4 3862 3184;
artvietnamgallery.com; by appointment
only). Art dealer Suzanne Lecht has
turned her home into a stunning
exhibition space for Hanois flourishing

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A new light Lamps in

Fusion Maia Danang, top.
Far left: Chef Don Berger,
of Dons Bistro in Hanoi.
Left: the pool at Amanoi

Unbridled passion
The racecourse at the
Kentucky Derby, right.
Elaborate hats and
brightly coloured dresses
are de rigueur for
women, far right

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THE RACIEST PLACE IN AMERICA

The Kentucky Derby is more than just one of the worlds great race meetings it is a joyous, life-afrming
party and a celebration of southern American hospitality. Max Davidson declares it a winner

ong before the horses canter down to the starting gates for the 140th Kentucky Derby,
roared on by thousands in the grandstands, the excitement has been mounting. The build-up
to Americas most famous horse race is so protracted that it seems to affect everyone
and everything. Even our ight to Kentucky from Chicago has been delayed, and for the most bizarre
reason: so many Derby-bound women are clutching so many hat boxes that there is no room for
them in the overhead lockers.
Horses faces stare out from every newspaper and television screen. In the hotels, in the bars,
on the streets, the conversation is of little else. Will the pre-race favourite, California Chrome, live up to
its billing? Or is there an equine superstar lurking among the outsiders? Dance with Fate, perhaps? Or
Vicars In Trouble?
Americans call the Derby the most exciting two minutes in sport and, if you are lucky enough to
have a ringside seat, you can see why. It is like Royal Ascot and the Grand National rolled into one. Royal
Ascot because everyone gets out their glad rags; the Grand National because half the country has a bet
on it, even if it is the only bet they place all year. But there the similarities stop. The razzmatazz and the
hoopla surrounding the race have no parallel in the UK. Only the Melbourne Cup in Australia the
race that stops a nation is t to be mentioned in the same breath.
The Derby is run at Churchill Downs, on the outskirts of Louisville, on the rst Saturday in May, and
for Kentuckians and non-Kentuckians alike, is the focus of attention for days, if not weeks, beforehand.
Kentuckians, as a rule, are a modest breed. They prize common sense above extravagance and will tell
you that Abraham Lincoln, who was born in Hodgenville, Kentucky, embodied the no-nonsense values

LCKI8KI8M<C 

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of his home state. We love rivers, mountains, old people, pretty horses
and fast women jokes a poster in a caf window in Frankfort, the state
capital. It is a beguiling little town, full of quirky craft shops and gracious
tree-lined streets, and by the time we have had a sumptuous supper at
Serani, a chic new Italian restaurant, we are starting to get a taste of
Kentucky hospitality that goes way beyond fried chicken.
For anyone wanting to combine a visit to the Derby with a y-drive
holiday in the area, there is no shortage of options. Julian Unthank and
his wife, from Hampshire, whom we meet in a caf in Frankfort, are
going to the Derby, but not before they have visited a few bourbon
distilleries, another of the states top tourist attractions.
We drink a lot of bourbon at home, so it is fascinating to explore
the history of Jim Beam and the other famous brands, says Unthank.
About 90 per cent of the worlds bourbon comes from the state, and
the rickety old distilleries, tucked away down side roads like guilty
secrets, form an entire sub-culture. For connoisseurs, there is a special
Kentucky Bourbon Trail, which sounds like a gloried pub crawl, but
actually showcases a rich slice of
American heritage.
The Bluegrass State as Kentucky is
known because of the richness of its
pastures is the horse capital of the
America, a place where pedigree counts
and tradition is everything. It is not one of
the biggest American states, but it feels
big. Generous highways sweep past areas
of dense woodland, before winding up into
the mountains or crossing big rivers such as the Tennessee and Ohio,
which border Kentucky. But you dont have to drive far before seeing a
horse out of the car window.
In the central belt, around Lexington, you pass horse farm after horse
farm, with the thoroughbreds of the future cavorting around elds
demarcated by white picket fences. One of the most prestigious
establishments, Gainsborough, is owned by Sheikh Mohammed, the
prime minister of Dubai, and when you start totting up the cost of all the
horse esh on display stud fees are well in excess of $500,000 your
head starts to spin at the unbridled extravagance of the sport of kings.
But the beauty of the Derby, like all the worlds premier sporting events,
is that it transcends class and wealth. This really is the peoples race,
watched live by nearly 170,000 spectators and by millions on television.
High and low alike get swept up in the party atmosphere, from the
celebrities attending eve-of-Derby gala balls, posing for photographs on
the red carpet, to the ordinary punters holding impromptu picnics in
the sprawling car parks that seem to cover half of Louisville. Our own

never-to-be-forgotten day at the races on the Governors special Derby

Train from Frankfort couldnt be more luxurious. From the comfort of
our Pullman car, sipping mint juleps, we watch the Kentucky countryside
glide past: clapboard farmhouses, buckled with age; cows grazing beside
a stream; a man in blue dungarees on a tractor, with his dog beside him;
golf courses; cemeteries; neatly trimmed lawns; a tiny Baptist church,
brilliant in the sun.
Behind us in the observation car, there is a band playing bluegrass
music, each song cheesier than the last. I knew I was lucky, cos I was
born in Kentucky But we wouldnt want Bach or Beethoven. This is
America at its folksy best, one of the most heart-warming places on the
planet. Every twang of the banjo is a joy.
Louisville is the biggest city in Kentucky and probably best known as
the home of Muhammad Ali, the Louisville Lip. The downtown, a maze
of skyscrapers, could be any busy American conurbation. But the outlying
suburbs, with their detached houses, spruce lawns and spreading
magnolias, have the elegance of an earlier age.
Our train deposits us half a mile from
the course, and we catch a bus to our nal
destination, Millionaires Row, a
grandstand packed to bursting with
hospitality suites, each more exclusive
than the last, and each offering superb
views of the course. Who is that down in
the paddock, shiny pate gleaming?
Rupert Murdoch, no less, chatting to
Rand Paul, a Kentucky senator and rising
star of the Republican Party. Where better to combine business and
pleasure than at this party of parties? Purely as a fashion parade, it takes
some beating. The womens hats alone from simple fascinators to pinkand-black creations that look like elaborate sculptures are worth the
price of admission.
A day at the races in Kentucky is far more leisurely than any British
equivalent. There is a full hour between each race, which gives us time
to linger over one of those epic American lunches that do so much harm
to the waistline. Next to us at the lunch table is Jason Dufner from
Alabama, one of Americas top golfers, and his fashion-model wife,
looking ridiculously beautiful in an electric blue dress and matching hat.
What dyall fancy in this race? asks Jason. I plump for Midnight
Lucky, on the rigorously scientic principle that it rhymes with Kentucky.
It wins! In the next race, I go for Global View because thats what I like
American presidents to have. It also wins! Jason and his wife look at me
as if I am Einstein.
The betting system is slightly different from that in England. You back

Horse play Frankfort,

the gracious capital of Kentucky,
above left. This years winner,
California Chrome, ridden by
Victor Espinoza, top, and
celebratory cocktails, above

ITS AMERICA AT ITS

FOLKY BEST, ONE OF
THE MOST HEARTWARMING PLACES

LCKI8KI8M<C 

a horse for a win, a place (rst or second) or to show (rst,

second or third). And the race track itself dirt rather
than grass takes a bit of getting used to. After one race,
we go down to the paddock and take snaps of the
returning jockeys, in their bright silks, their goggles
splattered with sand.
And now it is nearly 6pm, and the Derby itself,
scheduled for 6.24pm, is nearly upon us. As the horses
appear from the bowels of the grandstand, to roars you
could hear in Chicago, everyone stands to sing My Old
Kentucky Home, another great Derby Day tradition.
Weep no more, my ladyOh, weep no more today
We will sing one song for the old Kentucky home. for the
old Kentucky home far away
Why are there tears welling in my eyes? My home is
nowhere near Kentucky. I am a stranger in these parts.
Because thats what sport, and the rituals of sport, do to
you. The newspapers the next day will record that the
favourite, California Chrome, romped to victory, powering
past the eld in the home straight like an equine Ferrari.
But they wont convey the pent-up excitement, the yells of
encouragement, the st-pumping, the tsunami of emotion.
After the race, in yet another tradition, the winning

ULTRA GUIDE THE WORLDS TOP 5 RACE DAYS

PRIX DE LARC DE TRIOMPHE, PARIS

person. The price includes club house

DUBAI WORLD CUP

October 4-5 2014

seats and lunch in Sironas restaurant at

March 28 2015

British racegoers ock to Paris for

Santa Anita Park.

The Dubai World Cup has established itself

Arc weekend (below right), which is

as a premier day of international racing

highlighted by Europes most prestigious

MELBOURNE CUP

with the richest races in the world; total

THE PAPERS CANT

CONVEY THE PENT-UP
EXCITEMENT, THE
TSUNAMI OF EMOTION

and valuable race, the Prix de lArc de

November 1-4 2014

prize money is more than 17million,

Triomphe. As well as the Arc there are

The Melbourne Cup is the most famous

including the Dubai World Cup, which is

seven other Group 1 races on Arc Sunday.

and richest handicap race in the world,

worth nearly 6million. Meydan

Horse Racing Abroad (01244 355 580;

run over a gruelling two miles. It takes

Racecourse (above), which has a capacity

horseracingabroad.com) offers three

place on the rst Tuesday of November

of 60,000, was built for the event. As

nights at the Four Seasons Hotel George V

and has long been referred to as the

you would expect, race day is super-glitzy.

in a deluxe room, including return tickets

race that stops the nation. Melbourne

Emirates (01625 445 200; emirates.com)

on Eurostar from Kings Cross St Pancras,

becomes a carnival city and the

can arrange ights to Dubai and four

from 2,569 per person. The price includes

Australians party as only they know how.

nights b&b at the Address Downtown

horse is draped with a blanket of red roses, while the

winning owner is presented with a trophy of solid gold.
More hoopla, more cheering, more ashing cameras.
Then, nally, the Derby is over for another year.
There are still two more races on the card, but the vast
crowds start to lter away, tired but happy. I have never
seen so many smiles in one place and that is before we
board our train back to Frankfort and yet another round
of mint juleps and dancing and back-slapping.
The day after the Derby, we nd ourselves in Bardstown,
Kentucky, one of the prettiest small towns in America,
every street immaculate, every house a picture. When
Stephen Foster, often called the father of American music,
wrote My Old Kentucky Home, it was Bardstown he had in
mind. The handsome 19th-century mansion where he
lived, now a museum, could be a backdrop for Gone With
the Wind, anked by tall trees swaying in the breeze.
After the mayhem at Churchill Downs, Bardstown is an
oasis of tranquillity, with people pottering around craft
shops. But a little of the excitement still lingers. Outside
one shop, there is a handwritten sign that sums up the
charm of Americas greatest horse race. Trot on in, it
reads. And, underneath: 364 days to the Derby.

a four-course lunch in a private room

The event has become a four-day festival

Dubai from 1,445 per person.

on Arc day and a grandstand seat in the

(starting on November 1) of horse racing,

HRA Pavilion.

entertainment, fashion and culture.

LORMARINS QUEENS PLATE,

Bridge & Wickers (020 3411 0711;

CAPE TOWN

BREEDERS CUP, CALIFORNIA

bridgeandwickers.co.uk) can tailor-make

January 10 2015

October 31-November 1 2014

a Melbourne Cup package from 2,289

South Africas answer to Royal Ascot is a

The nale to the at season, the Breeders

per person. The price includes an eight-

swish affair held at Kenilworth Race Course

Cup brings together some of the best of

night stay in a club deluxe room at the

in Cape Town. The dress code for men and

the worlds thoroughbred horses from

Park Hyatt (15 minutes drive from the

women is strictly blue and white, with

America, Europe, UK and the Middle East

course), Qantas ights from Heathrow

prizes given for the best outt. The race is

for 14 races over two days Saturday

and transfers.

sponsored by Anthonij Rupert Wines,

is the big day. The event began in 1984

whose LOrmarins wine estate gives its

and horses run on turf and dirt for prize

name to the race, although it was rst run

money in excess of 15million. The Cup

in 1861 in honour of Queen Victoria. Enjoy

moves around American racetracks, but

a day of top racing and people watching

this year will take place at Santa Anita Park

this is a glam, sun-bronzed crowd.

in Arcadia, California, for the third year

LOrmarins Queens Plate (0027 71 100

running. With big bets being placed, this is

5329; lqp.co.za) offers a Chefs Table day

a place to show off.

for R2,500 (138) which includes exclusive

Horse Racing Abroad (01244 355 580;

dining near the rail, private tote and

horseracingabroad.com) has ve nights at

bar facilities, and access to the Style

the Westin Pasadena with British Airways

Lounge Village post-race party.

ights from Heathrow, from 2,450 per

SIMON HORSFORD

Packages in VIP grandstands

from 9,145 per person, with

centre; the best room is the

0783; 610.magnolia.com) is

Louisville mansion. The ve-

are the only way to avoid

entertainment, tickets to

Rooftop Apartment.

the most prestigious Louisville

course dinner menu is $65,

queues and crowds; they

Millionaires Row, Kentucky Oaks

The Brown Hotel, Louisville

restaurant for Derby weekend

exclusive of wine.

offer guaranteed tickets, food,

and Derby, business-class

(001 502 583 1234; brownhotel.

dinner. The six-course dinner

drink and shelter from the

ights with Delta to Louisville

com; doubles from $279).

menu costs $95.

GETTING ROUND IN STYLE

sun and rain.

and ve nights at the Galt

Originally built in 1923 in an

Jeff Rubys Steakhouse

R & R Limousine (001 502 458

House Hotel in Louisville,

English Renaissance style, a

on West Main Street (001 513

1862; rrlimo.com) offers luxury

HOW TO BOOK

including soft drinks and

Muhammad Ali Suite,

784 1200; jeffruby.com) is

transport, from private jets to

Derby Experiences (001 888

gourmet food buffet, VIP Fast

containing signed Ali

where the beautiful people

stretch limousines. Mint Julep

384 7088; derbyexperiences.

Access Pass, and tour of two

21cmuseumhotels.com;

memorabilia. Three-night

eat the juiciest steaks in stylish

Tours (001 502 583 1433;

com) and America As You

bourbon distilleries.

doubles from $239/140).

packages over the Derby start

surroundings. Dinner from

mintjuleptours.com) offers

A 90-room boutique hotel

at $4,800 for deluxe doubles.

about $100 per person.

tours of the state, from bourbon

Corbetts (001 502 327 5058;

country and Kentuckys horse

Like It (0208 742 8299;

americaasyoulikeit.com) offer

WHERE TO STAY

incorporating a contemporary

packages, from day excursions

The 21c Museum Hotel,

art museum, award-winning

WHERE TO EAT

corbettsrestaurant.com) offers

farms to the buildings of

at 470 to three-day packages

Louisville (001 502 217 6300;

restaurant and cultural civic

610 Magnolia (001 502 636

elegant dining in an historic

historic Louisville.

 LCKI8KI8M<C

ALAMY; AP; EYEVINE; GETTY; ISTOCKPHOTO

HOW TO DO THE KENTUCKY DERBY IN STYLE

ntellgence
ULTRA

EDITED BY LISA GRAINGER

A LITTLE PLACE I KNOW

Il Borro, San Giustino Valdarno, Italy

hen the Italian fashion magnate Ferruccio Ferragamo son of the

famous shoemaker Salvatore discovered Il Borro in 1985 while
hunting in Tuscany, he had no intention of buying a medieval
hamlet. The hillside village, once owned by the Savoy dynasty, was
in a severe state of disrepair and, in spite of being surrounded by

fertile land, its inhabitants were struggling to make a living.

I fell in love with the landscape; and the village, which dates back to 1039, is utterly

Ageing beauty The infinity pool

at Il Borro, top. Clockwise from
left: the restored hamlet; chef
Andrea Campani and his team;
the grand entrance to the
neighbouring villa and estate

charming, he explains. In 1993 he bought not just the semi-derelict medieval hamlet,
but its neighbouring grand villa that had been half-destroyed during the Second World
War and 1,730 acres of estate. In the past decade he has spent much of his life
restoring it, and last year he opened the entire property as a Relais & Chateaux hotel.
Il Borro is unlike any other hotel, though. For a start, its rooms are not in one block,
but spread throughout the estate. For families, or those who want privacy, there are
three villas (one is the grand manor house, sleeping 10, with its own pool and
Italianate gardens) and five farmhouses, surrounded by vineyards. The other 25 suites
are housed in the medieval village on top of a hill linked to the estate by a stone
bridge which has been restored piece by piece by local craftsmen. Walls have been
rebuilt in stone and fine brick; floors laid in oak and terracotta; ceilings created using
enormous beams; windows shaded by wooden shutters. There are even eight shops
housing artisans from a shoemaker to a jeweller and a church, presided over by
the same priest since 1941, who is now busier than ever, conducting weddings.
While the villages exteriors look authentically medieval, Ferragamo has gutted the
interiors to provide the sort of 21st-century luxuries that visitors expect of a high-end
property. As well as handsome Italian antique furnishings, rooms have airconditioning, mini-kitchens with espresso-makers and fridges, and mosaic-walled
bathrooms with standalone baths and Salvatore Ferragamo toiletries.
Best of all, the town has two restaurants, run by one local chef, Andrea Campani,
whose Osteria del Borro (osteriadelborro.it) has already become a gastro-destination,
serving such sensational local dishes as smoked rabbit pappardelle, pea-and-goatscheese soup and espresso brle, accompanied by the Super Tuscan Il Borro red
wine. The estate also offers horse-riding, golf, tennis, mountain-biking and cultural
excursions (Florence, Siena and Arezzo are less than an hour away).
Il Borro, San Giustino Valdarno, Italy (0039 055 977 053; ilborro.it) has rooms from

FOR THE
LATEST IN
LUXURY TRAVEL
telegraph.co.uk/
luxurytravel

320 (256) per night, and villas from 1,500 per night, breakfast included.

LCKI8KI8M<C  

TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

25,000,000,000
The amount of money now
spent on travel by the
over-50s in Britain

67

The number of enquiries

veryfirstto.com received for the
worlds first 1 million pound
holiday, a two-year luxury trip
visiting 150 countries

SUITE DREAMS Ultratravels guide to the worlds most sumptuous new hotel rooms

Residents on One Foot Island,

in the Cook Islands. Visitors
must leave at sundown when
they hear a drum beat

90

The amount of pounds per

square inch of pressure in an
uncorked champagne bottle
about three times that
of a car tyre

attentive staff, including a housekeeper and

There is also a tray set with jars of rich biscuits,

Broadway, Worcestershire (01386 852711;

a charming butler. Courses in yoga, painting and

a Nespresso coffee machine; a tablet loaded

foxhillmanor.com)

history are offered on the surrounding estate,

with local information and maps; a Ruark radio;

FROM 3,500 per night, b&b, for the house,

and can be arranged privately in the house.

free Wi-Fi; and a pantry on the landing filled

plus 1,500 on food and drink for 2-16 guests.

THE DETAILS Situated on the ground floor, the

with snacks and drinks made in local villages.

USP The 753sq ft Oak Suite is without doubt the

Oak Suite doesnt have the views of those

most romantic of the eight capacious rooms in

upstairs, but overlooks pretty formal gardens

room seating 20 and a lively, bright media room

Foxhill Manor in the Cotswolds, which has

and is enormous, with its own dressing room

piled high with games, high-tech gadgetry and

glorious views of forest and countryside and

lined in dark oak and floored with antique

numerous beanbags to lounge upon.

the quaint town of Broadway from its hilltop

parquet. The focal point of the living space

position. The imposing Arts and Crafts Grade

with open fireplace is the king-sized

House, is a few minutes drive away, and the

I-listed house was built in 1908 for the Maudslay

four-poster, covered in a quilted white cotton

Manors guests have access to its slick,

family, whose son Henry was one of the pilots

throw and piled high with big puffy pillows clad

spacious spa, with infinity pool, sauna and

killed in the Dambuster raid during the Second

in rich cotton. But its the baths that are the

steam rooms, and Veuve Clicquot nailbar,

World War. Its current Danish owners, the

knockout feature: a pair positioned just in front

where fizz is dispensed to help dispel boredom

Sorensen family, have spent more than

of the original leaded windows with a table

during pedicures. Rising-star chef Jon Ingram

2 million converting it from estate offices into a

between them set with an iced silver

oversees the neighbouring Garden Room

grand villa, with a ballroom big enough to seat

champagne bucket and glasses, and aromatic

restaurant, where locals regularly return for

80 people, pretty Japanese gardens, and

Temple Spa toiletries.

such specialities as light-as-air rhubarb souffl.

MASTERCLASS

ULTRA APP

LESSONS FROM
GLOBAL EXPERTS
CAVIAR

Elsewhere in the manor is a ballroom, dining

Foxhill Manors sister property, Dormy

SOUVENIR SEARCH

Top10.com

The Moscow-born food writer Anya von

Bremzen is the author of the acclaimed
Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking
What is caviar?
Unfertilised salt-cured fish eggs from sturgeon
some 26 species. No other fish qualifies.

A slick new app that lets travellers

find a hotel room wherever they are.
Select dates, location and hotel type
such as luxury, budget or boutique
and the app will quickly select the best
10 hotels that meet those criteria and
list the best online deals available.
Picture galleries, a full list of
amenities, maps and reviews make
choosing and booking a cinch.

Where does the best caviar come from?

Is there any difference between farmed

Historically, from the Caspian Sea (either Russia

and wild caviar?

or Iran), but much of the sturgeon fishing there

Because of overfishing and the various bans, Id

is no longer sustainable, so one has to look

only recommend sustainable, farmed varieties.

elsewhere. Galilee Caviar from Israel is highly

The best way to eat it?

prized, and California also produces great stuff.

We Russians eat it on good white bread with a

What is the difference between the

bit of butter or on blini and use mother-of-pearl

Noble soles

different varieties?

or glass spoons, nothing metallic. And no onion,

In the 1800s, the Scheer family were

Size, colour, mouth-feel and salt level. Beluga

lemon juice or trimmings that mask the taste.

made shoemakers to the Hapsburg

is the most expensive and prized, but I love the

What drinks best go with it and why?

court, in charge of cladding the feet of

greyer nuttier, milder ossetra. Sevruga tends

Champagne is traditional, but Id recommend a

Austrian and German emperors and

to be cheaper and brinier.

clean-tasting, high-grade chilled vodka, such as

European kings. Today, the seventh-

Why is some so much more expensive?

Beluga. Again, nothing that masks the taste.

generation shoemaker Markus Scheer

It depends on the exact sturgeon species and

Restaurants famous for caviar?

has Hollywood, as well as politicians,

its availability, as well as the curing, aging and

The Caviar Bar at Grand Hotel Europe in St

coming into his wood-panelled

fish maturity. The best eggs are large, glossy,

Petersburg has wonderful caviars from trusted

boutique to have lasts made, from

buttery, smooth-tasting, but also complex. The

suppliers, with sumptuous interiors to match.

which he crafts shoes with leather from

cheaper stuff tends to be darker and saltier.

The best places to buy it online?

stingray to buffed Austrian cowhide.

Caviar is now farmed in the UK will it be

London Fine Foods (londonfinefoods.co.uk)

Pairs cost from 3,000; parents in

any different from Russian?

and Imperial Caviar (imperialcaviar.co.uk).

search of gifts for children might

Much of the Russian caviar Ive had recently

Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking:

consider the shops ingenious gold

was of a poor quality, so Id try domestic farmed

A Memoir of Food, Family and Longing is

shoe polish (scheer.at).

varieties, such as Britains Exmoor Caviar.

published by Black Swan, 8.99.

  LCKI8KI8M<C

ILLUSTRATION BY ROBERT SHADBOLT; ALAMY

OAK SUITE, FOXHILL MANOR,

Three hours, 30 nautical miles and one underwater cavern ago,

she questioned his sense of adventure.
The Continental.
For more information, call 0845 689 1607 or visit www.TheLuxuryOfSpontaneity.com. #Continental #GTV8S
Continental GT V8 S fuel consumption in mpg (l/100 km)*: Urban 18.4 (15.4);
Extra Urban 36.7 (7.7); Combined 26.8 (10.6). CO2 Emissions 246 g/km.
*Fuel consumption fgures subject to Type Approval. The name Bentley and the B in wings device are registered trademarks. 2014 Bentley Motors Limited. Model shown: Continental GT V8 S

I love Jamaicas
humid heat,
its smells that
remind me of my
childhood, and
the food that
nourishes my soul

aomie Harris, 38,

was educated at Cambridge University and the
Bristol Old Vic Theatre School. She played
Winnie Mandela in the film adaptation of Nelson
Mandelas Long Walk to Freedom to great
acclaim, and was the first black actress to take
the role of Miss Moneypenny in the James Bond
film Skyfall. Other well-received performances
have included Tia Dalma in Pirates of the
Caribbean and Selena in 28 Days Later. Next
year she will star opposite Ewan McGregor in
Our Kind Of Traitor, based on the novel
by John le Carr.
How many holidays do you take a year?
For a long time, I didnt take holidays abroad.
Because I travel so much for work, a holiday
to me meant having time at home in London,
pottering about the house and visiting friends.
Now I have proper holidays about three or four
times a year. I particularly love going to Italy;
its food is so delicious.
Where next?
Hopefully Thailand, as Ive heard the Thais are
gentle and kind, the food is great, and its so
beautiful and peaceful.
Do you travel light?
No, I am the worst packer in the world. Given
how much I travel, I should be a pro, but it takes
me a whole day to pack. I always want to take

TRAVELLING LIFE Naomie Harris

everything just in case. Im always the person

counter, where I could watch the chef, Luke Dale-

Luxurious things you love?

of our crew couldnt leave his hut for a few hours

at check-in paying for excess baggage.

Roberts, prepare my food and chat to him about

I adore being pampered, so for me no holiday is

as a leopard had been spotted on his roof.

Any specific luggage?

what inspires him. An unforgettable experience.

complete without a trip to the spa for a shiatsu

Do you like adventure holidays?

One of my friends, Caroline Evans, owns a

If you could have supper anywhere in the

massage and reflexology.

Im more of a beach person. But, while I was

luggage company, Moncrief, that Im obsessed

world where would it be?

Simple things you love?

filming Long Walk to Freedom in South Africa,

with. Each bag is handmade by artisans in Italy

Jamaica. I love the humid heat, the smells that

Great food that hasnt been fussed with too much,

I went on safari to the Black Rhino Game Lodge

and takes a month to make. Theyre so gorgeous

remind me of my childhood trips there and the

which is why I love the fresh, pure tastes of Italian

(blackrhinogamelodge.com). I loved the incredible

that I only ever take them as hand luggage; they

food, which nourishes my soul and connects me

cuisine. A restaurant I recommend is Osteria della

sunrises and sunsets.

are way too precious to put in the hold.

to my roots.

Brughiera in Bergamo. You start dinner in the wine

The roughest way youve ever travelled?

Your favourite city for a weekend away?

Whats your idea of a perfect break?

cellar tasting exquisitely smoked hams and wines

A journey across Ghana on a camels back.

Id rather be in the English countryside than

A good book, sun, beach, massages on tap and

(although I dont drink, so I skip the wine). Then

It was the most uncomfortable way to travel.

abroad for a weekend. There are so many

my family and a bunch of friends in tow.

you are taken into a charming courtyard covered

Favourite things you have brought abroad?

gorgeous places to visit within a couple of

Favourite holiday spots?

with fairy lights and antique rugs. The owners treat

Shopping is my least favourite activity, which is

hours of London and that saves all the hassle

I went to Australia recently, and stayed at Byron

you like family and bring out plate after plate of

tough on my family as they never get souvenirs.

of flying. But there are a couple of places I love

At Byron. It is a gorgeous boutique hotel

gorgeous food.

The best airline in the world?

in Europe, like Barcelona for its architecture and

(thebyronatbyron.com.au), with some of the

The most glamorous room you have stayed?

Emirates, which is the most glamorous and

museums, and Ibiza for its year-round sun,

warmest service Ive ever experienced.

For the Dubai International Film Festival my family

luxurious way to travel.

nightlife and tranquillity, as well as beautiful sea.

The most romantic hotel youve been to?

was given a luxury villa at the Madinat Jumeirah

The best places to stay in the UK?

Favourite restaurants abroad?

I am sure that heaven wont look that dissimilar

(jumeirah.com), with our own private pool, butler

Champneys Tring, the spa in Hertfordshire

Without a doubt The Test Kitchen (thetestkitchen.

to Alila Villas Uluwatu in Bali (alilahotels.com/

and rooms the size of football pitches.

(champneys.com). Whenever I need a break

co.za) in Cape Town. Its eight-course tasting menu

uluwatu). Its perched on the edge of a cliff, has

The most remote place youve travelled to?

I head there and spend a few days in a fluffy

was the best meal of my life. Because it is one of

an incredible infinity pool and the staff wander

A basic lodge in Kenya called the Masai Lodge,

bathrobe, having treatments and wandering

the top 50 restaurants in the world theres a long

around in white and make your life impossibly

where we stayed while filming The First Grader.

around the grounds, and Im renewed.

waiting list, but I got lucky and had a seat at the

easy and relaxed. I cried when I had to leave.

There were baboons outside my window and one

Interview by Lisa Grainger

  LCKI8KI8M<C

PAMELA HANSON/TRUNK ARCHIVE

The British actress on her love of beaches, pampering, simple Italian food and why she cried when leaving Bali

www.chanel.com