Ek Makalu, Teen Bhaalu and Mother Goddess of Earth

A travelogue from North Everest Base camp..

Thus shall ye think of all this fleeting world:
A star at dawn, a bubble in a stream,
A flash of lightening in a summer cloud,
A flickering lamp, a phantom, and a dream.
Words of Tathagat, from Prajnaparamita, from The way of the white clouds.

Preface
This is an almost random collection of impressions brought back from Tibet. No data
distances, altitudes, hours from point A to B Did you say Thank God?
The entire trip was planned, organized and put together by Dani, in the face of
considerable odds, which included wavering companions, Mao rebels, gun toting Royal
Nepal Army chaps (in civvies!), landslides and all the ifs and buts one has to face while
catering for total strangers!! The plan was to trek in the eastern region of Chomolongma
the name in Tibetans, since Everest is straight and boring then peep again at Mother
Goddess of Earth (that is what Chomolongma means) from the north by visiting the north
base camp. All this, while Dan attended to his duties in this region..

(Credit:http://kekexili.typepad.com/life_on_the_tibetan_plate/2007/12/everest-base-ca.html)

Chal Chal re Kathmandu..

Dan, Shekharii and myself met in Kathmandu in the first week of July 2002, and entered
Tibet via Kodari border for a 3 week ramble over the roof of the world. But before that, a
lot of preparation had to be made marketing for dried fruit, candles, wind proof
clothing, a spare pair of walking shoes well the list is long and walking through lanes
and by lanes of Thamel, one is likely to pick up so many other things, not for trek, but for
home and friends. Of late the local economy, especially that of the tourist industry has
been in the doldrums for a variety of reasons recent killings in the royal family,
simmering mao rebellion in outlying areas etc.
Thamel is a locality where average tourists (on a budget) would find all their needs
fulfilled- second hand books, music, momo shops, eateries with wider taste, curios and
trinket shops, indigenous paintings and artifacts, cyber cafes and money changers. What
you need to keep in mind is- dont bring Indian currency of 500 and 1000 denomination
and even slightly soiled or torn notes. Also, you must patiently negotiate, negotiate,
negotiate. Your patience will be amply rewarded!
Thamel offers another unique advantage: Prakash Maharjan. This extremely helpful,
reliable young man organized our travel and stay in Nepal with grace and efficiency.
Dates were often canceled, changed, preponed - and Prakashiii reorganized everything,
often at an email request or just a phone call!!

Zhangmu? No, Zaangmuoh, Zahangmo, Hzangmoe?

Kodari and Zhangmu (dont worry, no one can master those elusive Tibetan
pronunciations) are the two faces of the same coin but how different!! One represented
the polished face of communist efficiency and the other medieval listlessness. What
separates them is the rushing Bhote Koshi river. Strangely enough, I felt more
comfortable in the squalor and disorderliness of this side!!
We saw many south Indian pilgrims, going to and returning from Kailash-Mansarovar
Yatra, via Kodari. All ages, colors and shape and in varying states of dishevelment! To
an average Indian, Himalaya represents the end of the world. Going beyond can come
pretty close to near death experience. That is what we saw in some faces...
A little way off, on our way to Tingri (or is it Dingri? Dhingri?), we passed through
Nyalam (12,400 ft) a small dirt town. A mud road. Many shops, houses fronting on to
the road. Any moment, you expect, as Dan put it, John Wayne to tumble out of one of the
shops, guns in hand, blasting his way out
Milarepa probably feared a similar fate for this town. He named it Nyalam Road to
Hell. He was an 11th century Tibetan poet-saint, often shown with a hand close to ear, as
if undertaking a long Taaniv. His cave and temple are close by, at Pargyeling.
Interestingly, Marpa - his guru was a married man who tilled fields and is often shown in
Tibetan paintings as a lay figure. Many miracles like lifting a huge rock, passing through
it etc are attributed to Milarepa.
Leaving the Bhote Koshi gorge, we were now steadily climbing to our first pass, high on
the roof. Vast expanses of dry mud in varying shades. Grey sky arching down to distant
horizon and a Land cruiser scuttling like a beetle in this immensity

Soon we entered the head waters of Phung chu river, which is known in Nepal as Arun
river. Which river will flow in what direction is totally decided by the rivers themselves
in this region! So, have no preconceived notions about what is proper and what is not.
They may originate in the same region and follow opposite whims. One may cross
Himalaya, the other may take a 5000 mile detour around it.
Dingri was our first night halt in Tibet. Everest Snow Leopard Hotel is typical of hotels
one finds in this region. There is a huge courtyard, with rooms around it and on one side
these rooms give way to essential services: a parlor cum eating room, with central
Bukhari (which doubles as stove for cooking as well as room heating), great divans with
cushions, which again double as sofa cum bed at night. To one side there were toilets
separate for ladies and gents, but once you entered you discovered that the cubicles had
no roof or door, so five men (or women) could sit there and chat, after the good old
fashion of open air toilets in Indian villages. So far so good, but the smell certainly was a
deterrent. The practice of throwing dry mud after each use, as in some regions of Zanskar,
I saw nowhere. If I were heading Bill Gates Foundation for creativity, this problem would
be thrown open for the next years awards!
Every room had a wash basin on a wooden stand and hot water in huge thermos flask.
Windows have acquired a very special status in local architecture. Since everything has to
be kept closed due to high velocity winds and cold, huge glass fronted windows, as
source of light, become important, one presumes.
I tried using chopsticks at supper and had some success. The trick is, as I was told, to
practice picking up pea-nuts with them, first one, then two then as many as you have
got appetite left for after fiddling with those sticks!

Shegar
Many Tibetan place names have an interesting story and some Indian connection. For
example Dingri has following story. An Indian Tantric master Padampa Sangye came
here looking for a special black rock in 11th century AD. Now, how did the rock come
here, in the first place? Buddha Shakyamuni is supposed to have thrown this rock,
through his special powers, from India all the way to Tibet. It landed on a frozen lake at
the present site of Dingri. It made the loud sound of DINGGGGGggg..! Hence, the name
Dingri. But the story continues: The rock bounced off further west to the western edge of
Dingri plains. Padampa Sangye recovered it from there and established Langkor gompa
at the spot! Finally, the black rock is reputed to have bounced off, in to a private
collection of a highly respected Congressman in Ohio! May be!
I do not know, but Shegar too may have some such story. It is a medium sized town with
a population of about fifty thousand, a hospital, a PLA army unit, many shops, a fort in
ruins (Shegar Dzong) and a gompa. Besides, Qomolongma National Nature Preserve
(QNNP) is head quartered here. Future Generations has a training center here too.
Dawa a Tibetan girl, working with QNNP, was our translator who often needed help
herself. Her job certainly was difficult since Chinese and Tibetan, both languages are
used in conversation in this region. So, knowing only the Tibetan name for rice was not
enough. One of our biggest problems was how to order food in Himalaya hotel. We tried

to solve it first by pantomime, then, by walking straight into the kitchen area and pointing
out various items. Finally Dawa made us write down the names of some common items:
Rice Mifan (Chinese), Dray (Tibetan)
Rice Pudding Shifaang (G soft..)
Sugar Pithaang (Ch), Chini (Tb)
Potato Shoko; if fried Muincho
Noodles/soup Thugpa (Tb), Gyathug (Ch)
Butter tea Chha suma
Sweet tea - Chhangamo

Finally, we learned some other general purpose words:

Good food Simbudu (said in appreciation, before asking for more!!)
Yes Reih (but you also need to intuit, what you are saying yes to!!)
No Mey / Mareeh. Later, I was told, that while refusing a further helping of a food, which the
host is convinced is GOOD for you, you rather say Jigsawn! A politer way of refusing.

Torchhe Naa (She-she in Chinese) was the one word which we used with great effect, as
it meant Thank you. I noticed that quite a few Tibetans preferred Torchhena to She-she
and let it be known too. Armed with these words and To shey (how much price in Yuan?),
I did quite a bit of marketing too. Women routinely manage shops and business. Coat,
pant and hat is the regular dress here, both for women and men. Exceptions are those
coming from nearby villages. The latter have that unmistakable provincial look; Men
wear a long shaggy pony tail, often threaded with a red braid/ ribbon and tied around
their head in such a way that the red braid makes a bright semi-circle on the top; Lurking
in the hair is often a huge turquoise and other trinkets. Quite often a hat will top all this.
Faces are rugged, craggy and will delight any painter. But most of them are camera shy.
Shegar being at about 14500 feet, acclimatization was important, hence we climbed to the
Gompa and further up, to the ruins of the old fort. It appears that this border region was
often invaded in medieval times by Nepali armies; That necessitated building and
manning a chain of fortifications all along the border with Nepal.
From the top of the mountain, sitting among the ruins of the fort, one can see the green
valley and the scattered villages, fields, houses, tractors, canals etc. The rivers in Tibet
represent the arteries of life. Beyond, lies the wasteland, mountains, passes ranged only
by nomads and their herds of sheep and yak.
Tibetans are simple children of mother nature. Fun, frolic, singing and playing comes
naturally to them. Every afternoon Himalaya hotel would be full of the rattle of dice,
smoke, beer cans and joyous faces. But violence in public places was unheard off. Crime
rate is low.
On the third day in Shegar, I went around looking for Cetrizine, my allergy medicine. The
only pharmacy in the market, owned by a Chinese, wanted Rs 180 for ten tablets of
Pseudoephedrine! Then we, Phorbu Tseringv and myself, went to the local government
hospital. There was a long line of people waiting outside and the doctor was not around!
Finally a QNNP staff gave me some tablets.

Along Dzakaa Chu

After five days of preparation at Shegar we left for Karma valley, to the east of
Qomolongma. Driving south, we crossed Paang La. As we stopped near Ladzayvi with
many prayer flags (Lungdaa) fluttering high above the road, we did not shout Lha S as

we are supposed to the surroundings were so quiet, serene and even sacred. The valleys
below were wrapped in mist. Somewhere out there, was the Karma valley, which we
would be exploring over the next few days. A stone slab pointed out three peaks, visible
on a clear day Cho-Oyu, Everest and Makalu. Our guide up to the road head was Bimba
la of QNNP (la is the respectful appendage), without whose linguistic help we would
have been famished.
First stop was Phadruchhi. Tibetan name is Tashi Dzong (Lucky fortress). Some maps
spell it Phadruch. This is a common problem: many towns in Tibet have two even three
names, one Chinese and the other of course original Tibetan. Varying pronunciations too
cause its own confusions. From here a right turn (south west) would take one to Rongbuk
gompa and north Everest base camp (BC). We took the left turn and drove along the
Dzakaa chu river in a barren desolate landscape. Dzakaa chu means white water.
Further on, Dzakaa chu joins Phung chu (Arun R.); Passes through some beautiful gorge
country; A section of the dirt road was found washed away. Some natural caves along the
route. Finally we started seeing some vegetation as we neared Kharta region. The
explanation is: Arun river cuts deep gorges through Himalaya to reach Nepal. Monsoon
clouds are siphoned through these gorges in to Tibet along the Arun river. Thus Karma
valley Karma river is a tributary of Arun R. - has thick vegetation, woods and even
Leeches!

Kharta & Youba

In a village in the Kharta region we looked for Phunshok, the guide. Since he was not
around, we left word and carried on to Youba, the last village on the road, from where we
had to walk.
It was late afternoon. Just outside the village, we pitched our tents. Some children came
and looked at my trekking guide. I showed them pictures and they gave the names aloud:
Picture of Bhunguu,(ass) generated much laughter. An old man pestered everybody for
shoes. Our gear was examined closely. A local family agreed to cook supper for us.
Next morning, our Yak herders and guide arrived. Four yaks and two men could have
served the purpose. Sanjouk had the rare capacity of translating back and forth between
Nepali and Tibetan, so Dan had to appoint him as the official spokesperson. Shekhar and
I could not manage Tibetan and very little Nepali, so Phunshok who knew some English,
became the second choice. Now the owner of 3 out of 4 yaks could not be short-shrifted.
So Soto also had to be taken on.
Our belongings were tied on Yaks back and we moved to the Langma La (la = pass). Yaks
are like bullocks with double blankets. Very sure footed. Shy. But very strong. They are
controlled with just a rope tied to the wooden ring in their nasal septum. This rope is tied
around their sharp horns while they are on the move or grazing, so that accidentally it
doesnt get caught in a stone or shrub, immobilizing the animal. So, when it is time to
load them in the morning, the handler has to inch his way carefully close to the head of
the animal and grab the rope.
Yaks are left free to graze through the night. In the morning they are cajoled with a big
bowl of barley flour and other tricks. Until the handler is able to grasp the rope tied
around his horns, a yak can not be controlled or over-powered. One morning during our

trek, we saw a game of hide and seek between yaks and their handlers. Three of them
sauntered away from the camp and hid in a thick growth of juniper bushes. Dan, being at
a higher vantage point, with his binoculars, was able to see where they were sitting
quietly. So Soto, first came to Dan, took the bearing and then charged after the
camouflaged yaks. In a few minutes, we saw all three yaks racing out of the bush.
Tip of their ears is pierced with a bushy tail of plastic cord and tied. It magnifies the
slightest movement of the ears and keeps the flies away. Most of the time drivers would
put in these ingenious fly whisk, measuring about six inches, in colors matching the
Yaks.
There is a deep bond between the handler and the yak. Once we saw Phunshok carry a
heavy rucksack the whole day, to avoid over-burdening his yak. Distributing the weight
fairly and equally is an important concern. So, yak drivers pick up various pieces of
baggage to sense the weight and then sort them out in four equal piles. To rule out human
error, they would then assign four different pebbles, sticks or leaves to the four yaks.
Next, one of us would be asked to put these four pebbles on the four piles randomly.
Thus, chances of any yak having to carry a load heavier than any of the others would be
minimised. Everyday the loads would be rotated.
Because of the distance and altitude to be traversed, instead of attempting the pass on the
first day, we camped at its foot.

Langma La
We passsed two lakes as we climbed to the pass. The upper one is a tarn, a glacial lake,
amid rocks, boulders and scree slopes. Water is clear and cold. An enchanted lake. And if
you think you have seen the best, wait! Cross over the pass, and descend for a few
minutes, then you behold a clear blue hole in the earth, rimmed by high mountains. The
water is so clear and silent surface so reflective like a mirror, gives the impression of a
conduit to a different world. A few black dots moving on the steep sides, on closer
inspection, were found to be yaks. I was afraid to touch the placid waters lest a Yaksha
might surface from the lake and ask me four riddlesvii. Anything was possible in such
surroundings!! The diameter would have easily been around a kilometer; One side of the
lake had a rocky precipice. Retreating glaciers in the geologic ages had left behind many
gifts. These lakes are one and the other - the tenuous tracks over these passes.
We continued to descend in to the next green valley, until we came to a camp site by a
stream; In the foreground was a glacier in a steep, curving valley which gives it its name
Sickle glacier.
A lonely hermitage on the mountain peak,
Towering above a thousand othersOne half is occupied by an old monk,
The other by a cloud!
Last night it was stormy
And the cloud was blown away;

After all a cloud is not equal

To the old mans quiet way.
Ryokwan

Next day we visited the ruins of Gongkhar (?) gompa. Like most Gompas, it occupies a
commanding location in the valley overlooking Sickle glacier. Amid the ruins of stairs,
walls, small Dukhang (assembly hall), monks cells, lounge etc one could see a small
chapel one had to bend and crawl to enter - where chance visitors have been offering
prayers, incense and lamps, even to this day. The present ruins could be 3 to 4 centuries
old. A little above these ruins, there was a cave under a huge rock, turned into monks
cells, low meditation cubicles etc. This site could be even older. What happened? Was it
cultural revolution or something else? How far was the nearest village? Perhaps two or
three days. Was it given up for that reason?
Next two days we kept moving further up into the Karma valley: Close to Pethang camp
site, is a diversion to Tse Chu lake (Tse chu Life giving water). What could be the most
sensuous experience? Simple - To listen to Brahms violin concertoviii on the banks of Tse
Chu. Close to the lake is Guru Rimpoches cave at 16000+ feet. Like elsewhere, on the
altar, there was a photo of Dalai Lama. This I am sure would be the ideal place for a
spiritual retreat, PROVIDED one is sure of food supply!!
Rimpoche literally means precious teacher. Padmasambhava was the Sankrit name of this
Tantric master invited by the Tibetan king Thrisong Detsen in eighth century AD. He
established Nyngmapa school. Guru Rimpoche and his disciple Vairochana are attributed
to have meditated in many caves in remote regions. But he seems to be just one in a long
series of exchanges between India and Tibet. Three centuries later Atisa, another master
from India, arrived in Tibet and started a second diffusion of Buddhist thought, giving
birth to Kadampa sect and many monasteries. Similarly Drogmi and Marpa (Teacher of
Milarepa) are reputed to have paid a visit in the opposite direction for translation of
Sankrit texts and religious studies.
But it appears that conversion of Tibet to Buddhism was not entirely peaceful. One hears
of infamous persecution of Buddhists during the reign of King Langdarma
(Lingdharma?) in Tibet in the ninth century, egged on by Bon priests. Then, there is a
melodramatic assassination of this king by a lama, during a ritual mask dance. The
assassin escapes on a painted horse but as it crosses a stream all the paint is washed off
and pursuit is hot..

Route Map

Friendship
Highway:
Kathmandu to
Lhasa

To Lhasa
Nyalam

Dingri

Kodari

Tibet, China
Kathmandu

Chomolongma

Nepal

Shegar
To Lhasa

Dingri

The trek Route

N
Arun R

Pang la
Dzakaa Chu R
Phadruchi
Passum

Rongbuk Gompa
Kharata

Youba

North BC
Langma La
Shau La

Kangshung Gl.

Karma R

Chomolongma
Lhotse
Makalu

Chomolonjo

Pethang Ringmo
Pethang Ringmo was our last camp site high up in the Karma valley, on the edge of
Kangshung glacier. Beyond this point yaks can not go. East Everest BC is just another 34 hours away. We walked through a forest of Juniper and Rhododendron bushes. There
were plenty of small flowers of many kinds. We had got to know our yak drivers a little
more intimately now. Phunshok had been heard singing on quite a few evenings. He also
was brushing up his spoken English. Sanjouk often had the onerous task of translating the
evening menu to his two colleagues from Nepali to Tibetan. The menu of course would
first be discussed among us three in Hindi and / or English; Then translated by Dan into
Nepali. To complicate this tower of Babel, I would sometime toss in a Tibetan word, but
naturally with the wrong accent.
Can we have Bhalay for supper, tonight?
What on earth is Bhalay in Nepali or Hindi?
You know- round round. Made of flour?
Made up of flower? Which one? - Phunshok and Sanjouk ask.
No, no. You eat it with your hands. Remember, we had it in Shegar?
I turn to my colleagues for help.
O you mean bread! He means Bha-le-eh!
Sanjouk and Phunshok look at me quite amused He means Bha-le-eh. He means
bread!!
At Pethang Ringmo, three or four Drugpa (nomads) families were camping with their
yaks. One of them was Phunshoks sister and her husband. We went around from camp to
camp, sampling their butter tea and brandishing our small vocabulary of pleasantries. It
worked and we learned something of their life in return.
These tents, made up of Yak hair, are water proof and permit enough day light through
the fabric. A huge yak skin bag in is filled with yak milk and then rolled back and forth
between two persons sitting facing each other almost like two kids playing with a huge
football. This is how butter is made. Inside, a large pot was on the fire, in which
probably milk solids / cheese was being made. In one corner of this low wide tent was a
small altar, on which sat, all the prized possessions of the family: a small clock, a picture
of Dalai lama, incense and other trinkets.
Most men went around with a little sewing set dangling from their waist. Repairs,
particularly that of the tent, is traditionally a mans job here. Every camp had a dog which
observed our dealings with the master and responded intelligently. Newborn of the yak is
the tenderest and cutest thing seen at these heights. It appears that for some days after
birth they are sheltered inside the Drugpa tent just like a human child. They have
beautiful eyes but the roughest tongue!!

Towards East Everest BC

Altitude was taking its toll and our faces looked more like Ursus arctos (Tibetan brown
bear) or like Yidam Yamantakix chinky eyes, swollen cheeks and a sore head! Makalu,
Chomolonjo, Lhotse, Everest nothing had been seen so far. Everything was wrapped in

playful mist which sometimes lifted unexpectedly and sometime closed in on us like a
cupola.
14th July was our last chance. While the camp wound up and returned to Pethang,
Shekhar and myself moved on towards the BC, in the hope of getting a glimpse of
Chomlongma. Moving along the true left bank of the Kangshung glacier, we saw much
evidence of geologic activity: The glacier was grinding down the sides of the valley and
large sections were in various stages of sinking and falling off into the mighty glacier.
Finally I saw a huge rock where I offered the prayer flags and we turned to retrace our
steps. Out of the mist materialized two Drugpa children, who offered us Tsampa. We gave
them apples in return.
Close to the stream which comes down from Sickle glacier and joins Karma Psangpo, the
trail bifurcates: One returns to Youba via Shau-La. The other via Langma-la. We decided
to use the new path (Shau-la) to return.
We descended further into the Karma valley which became greener and wider as we lost
altitude. Juniper shrubs changed into tall Cedar and Pine trees in a matter of a few hours.
Still later we were climbing to the pass. On this side of the pass there were at least three
lakes. Many Brahmakamals were seen in this region. We were told that the petals of this
flower are eaten by the locals. Also, that the stalk is smoked and gives a high. Next
morning when we got up, the three peaks awaited us; Sky was clear and we got our first
view of the massive snow covered range sitting astride Nepal Tibet border: Though a few
other smaller peaks were visible, the horizon was dominated by Makalu, Chomlonjo (not
to be confused with Chomolongma), Lhotse. Chomolongma appeared small, being tucked
away in one corner, more to the right.

Rongbuk Gompa inspiration for Shagrila?

After winding up our trek in Youba, we drove back to Phadruchi (Tashi Dzong) and took
the other dirt road this time road to Rongbuk (also Rongphu) monastery. There were
highly emotional scenes, well hidden under horse play, as we took leave of our three
companions and their yaks. Phunshok hurriedly disappeared in his village and reappeared
with something in his hands. Following an ancient custom he presented each of us a
white silk scarf (Kata), put it round our necks. We wished them all the best and knew in
our hearts that diligent Phunshok would definitely get somewhere in life.
At 16,350 feet, Dza Rongphu gompa could easily claim to be the highest gompa in the
world. It was brought into the limelight in the 1920s through the accounts of the British
mountaineering teams which were trying to find an alternative route to the southern
approach to Everestx. Some believe that these early fantastic accounts inspired James
Hiltons mysterious lamasery of Shangrila, in the famous novel Lost Horizon. Until a
short time ago there were five monasteries in this region, just a few kilometers from north
Everest BC and at least two of these were Ani gompas (nunneries)xi.
Now there is a hotel here (just like the one in Tingri) and a new government hotel is
coming up a little off the road. The present gompa is used both by lamas and nuns,
though nuns have their residential cells outside the gompa, as a long row of simple one
room sets. In front of the gompa is a huge chorten. Most pictures show this chorten, its
intricate beautiful brass / bronze superstructure caught against the massive expanse of

Everest in the background. From our hotel room windows, Chomolongma was visible
clearly and as the afternoon shaded in to dusk, we saw her ever changing shades and
moods.
I saw a nun taking a group of brightly attired Tibetan women, one with a few weeks old
baby in arms, on a round of the Rongbuk gompa Kora, the pilgrimage. She insisted
they took the prasad (communion). A lama came and conducted a ceremony for them in
the courtyard. The women, probably from some distant village, felt awkward and shy. But
the nun assisted them and made them comfortable in various ways. This was the same
setting we had visited minutes ago, and were treated appropriately, courteously but
differently. I wondered how an outsider can ever hope to know a culture, a people, their
feelings.
Next morning, we drove to the north Everest BC. Leaving the vehicle, we trekked on to a
point where Rongphu Glacier (main) and east Rongphu glacier met. Clouds played their
little games on the shoulders of Chomolongma. It was right in front of us. All around
were the morainic remains of old glaciers in the arctic wilderness. Here and there were
reminders of human activity in the past coke cans, but also a frayed lungdaa, a prayer
flag caught among stones, fluttering helplessly. Sun rays reflected from the ground and
from the mountains sapping our energy. Laughing and talking was an effort at 17000 feet.
One did not even feel the need for it, as the surrounding seemed sufficient unto itself.
At peace with itself. It did not ask for anything except perhaps to be left alone! It
reminded me of something I had read recently in the context of conservation Take only
photographs; Leave only footprints.
We returned and drove back the same way. Stopped at Passum. Finally in stages, we left
Shegar, then Kathmandu, Delhi and at last we were home in the foothills of Himalayas.
Well, you know, there IS a life beyond Himalayas!
Sachin

2nd August 2002

Dan Jantzen works for Future Generations; Speaks Nepali and Hindi like a native and has traveled extensively in
Himalayas.
ii
Dr Shekhar Pathak teaches History in Kumaon University, Nainital, and has written at length on Himalayas.
iii
Prakash Maharjan, Managing Director
POBox 2782, Thamel, Jyatha, Kathmandu, Nepal Phone 977-1-253352, 253053, 253018(Fx)
Email: puku@highland.wlink.com.np
iv
Taan is the Indian classical version of Operatic Aria a high note stretched interminably!
v
This young guide works for QNNP; Has lived in India and has good English communication skills.
vi
Ladzay is a votive pile of stones, a huge cairn, often located at the top of the pass as an offering to the gods. Lha So is a
verbal offering / thanks giving for safe arrival at the top of the pass.
vii
Such an incident happened with five Pandav brothers and is described in Mahabharat. This epic also describes races
living to the north of India.
viii
Yehudi Menuhin; Conducted by Rudolf Kempe;
ix
A fierce protector, portrayed in some gompa frescoes.
x
These were the beginning days of the mountaineering as we know it today. Britain was under tremendous nationalistic
pressure to place Union Jack on Everest. Mallory and his team was promoted by old Tibet hands like Francis Younghusband
in this endeavor. Eventually Mallory lost his life in one of these attempts, just a few hundred feet below the summit. And the
controversy continues to this day as to who climbed Everest first Hillary (of Newzealand) and Tenzing OR - Mallory the
Englishman. All the while ordinary Tibetan looks at Chomolongma and bows and mumbles a prayer!!
xi
Some of this information has been gratefully taken from a very useful trekking guide by Gary McCue Trekking In Tibet
a travelers guide.