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Jack Turner - Not On Any Map
Jack Turner - Not On Any Map
Since 1978 he has lived at the foot of the Tetons, one of North
Americas most dramatic mountain ranges, usually in cabins without electricity or running water. A retired mountain
guide, he believes that to really love a place one must forge
an intimate, bodily relationship with it, and that to do so in
this day and age is an achievement. One cabin in which he
lived, a twelve-by-twenty-foot plywood shack located inside
Grand Teton National Park, could be reached during the winter months only by skiing or snowshoeing four miles from the
nearest plowed road. Temperatures sometimes dropped to 40
below. Weeks passed without a visit to town. He says the years
he spent there with his wife, Dana, and dog, Rio, were the best
of his life.
Raised in Washington, D.C., and Southern California,
Turner grew up in a family of outdoorsmen. His grandfather
was the co-owner of a hunting-and-fishing camp in northern
Pennsylvania, and his father hunted and fished year round.
Turner got an undergraduate degree in philosophy at the
University of Colorado and went on to study Chinese and
philosophy at Stanford and Cornell. Soon after, he accepted a
teaching position at the University of Illinois in Chicago, but
he was less comfortable in the halls of academia than he was
wandering the backcountry. Hed become obsessed with rock
climbing in the early 1960s, and by the middle of that decade
he was partnering with some of the best climbers in the U.S. on
difficult routes in Yosemite National Park and Colorado. He
loved climbing more than philosophy, so he quit being a professor. The mountains were calling, and he trusted their voice.
Now seventy-two years old, Turner has spent more time
outdoors in pursuit of wildness and wilderness than anybody
youre likely to meet. For forty-two years he worked for Exum
Mountain Guides, a company based in Wyoming, leading
clients up the 13,776-foot Grand Teton and neighboring peaks.
He has climbed the Grand Teton roughly four hundred times
and participated in more than forty treks and expeditions to
Pakistan, India, China, Tibet, Nepal, Bhutan, and Peru. In
his free time hes backpacked, canoed, fished, bird-watched,
and camped often alone and always without a GPS all
across North America. Friends of mine who live in Jackson Hole
tell me they occasionally run across Turner when theyre out
hiking. One saw him on the side of a steep ridge, meditating
on a flat rock among wildflowers. Another saw him crawling
around in the snow at his wifes feet with a magnifying glass,
talking excitedly.
Turner is the author of three books of nonfiction: Travels
in the Greater Yellowstone; The Abstract Wild; and Teewinot:
A Year in the Teton Range. In all three he weaves personal
anecdotes from the field with philosophical arguments, quotations from Chinese poets and Buddhist masters, and naturalhistory lessons. He is the recipient of a Whiting Foundation
Writers Award, and his work is currently taught in more than
fifty college environmental-studies programs. Hes been a visiting scholar at the University of Utah, but these days he turns
down most offers to lecture and teach, preferring to stay near
his home and its surroundings.
When I first contacted Turner about an interview, I had
August 2014 The Sun
mike cavaroc
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Tonino: Youve commented that we live in an age of relativism and that most folks no longer believe in evil. Do you
believe in evil?
Turner: Yes, I do. But evil seems to require a kind of
scale: the Nazis, Stalin, Mao, the leaders of the Khmer Rouge
in Cambodia. Some of my Buddhist friends dont believe in
evil; and some think that compassion is always the best response, even to evil. I usually refer them to the great Tibetan
teacher Chgyam Trungpas idea of idiot compassion. Compassion is not a panacea; it requires judgment and wisdom.
All of the virtues require judgment. You can be kind or you
can be honest but not always at the same time. Sometimes
you ought to shut up instead of being honest, and other times
you ought to tell it like it is, even if its not kind and people
will be hurt. Which to do? This requires good judgment and
wisdom and they do not come easily or quickly. We need
people in our lives, both at a personal level and at a national
level, who have judgment, courage, and compassion. As the
Buddha said, greed, hatred, and ignorance rise endlessly yes,
even in you and me. Its not as though were going to save the
world, and then everything will be OK. Well never succeed,
but still we must try. Its a constant confrontation with the
present moment.
Tonino: Would you say a little about your religious life?
Turner: I describe myself as a student of Chan Buddhism and Taoism. I first started formal Zen meditation in
1966, but my practice was very inconsistent. I spent time in
monasteries in Ladakh and Nepal. Around 1984 writer and
poet Gary Snyder came to Jackson Hole to give a talk, and
I had dinner with him afterward. I asked him to suggest a
Zen teacher, and he recommended Robert Aitken in Hawaii.
I now study with his dharma heir [successor], Nelson Foster.
I am just a student. Ive been sitting though sometimes
erratically for more than five decades; Ive studied Taoism and some other traditions of Buddhism, particularly the
Tibetan Buddhist tradition of Dzogchen, which has a number of similarities to Zen. Im not much of an institutional
guy, but I do have a tremendous amount of respect for all
those traditions. I will always be just a student, and thats
fine with me.
America tends to convert everything into commodities,
so now we have a spiritual marketplace with Zen teachers who
make hundreds of thousands of dollars a year pushing what
I think is basically snake oil. Buyer beware! But I do believe
there are still true teachers. Theyre more like mountain guides,
actually: Ive done this route forty-seven times. If you want
to do the route, bad conditions and all, then I can probably
give you some helpful tips that might, just might, get you to
the top. The teacher-guide cant move your arm and plant
your foot for you, though. You have to pee for yourself; you
have to climb the mountain yourself. Reading and talking
dont count. The form of Chan-Zen-Dzogchen I study is not
really a matter of beliefs. I dont believe; I just try to practice.
And Im no better than that practice, which is in this present
moment. Youre either here or youre not, either in contact or
youre not.
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favorite pool. Where Rio ran into the bear. Its a private mapping, a personal geography projected onto the land. It requires
a long time living in one place and studying its plants and
animals. If you follow them and their lives, you gain a deeper
sense of home. Those old hermits didnt need topographic
maps.
Researchers can tell you that Concord is six degrees
warmer than it was in Thoreaus time, because they have
his journals to refer to. They can tell you that on average the
plants now bloom anywhere from two to six weeks earlier
than in his day. They can tell you the number of wildflowers
that have disappeared. Only because of individuals notekeeping and tracking and immersion in place do we have
any sense of how nature is changing. The idea of being embedded in ones environment is paramount, and Thoreau is
our great exemplar. The old Chinese hermits wrote poems
and painted pictures of their places, always presenting their
embeddedness.
I cant focus on things that I am not intimately connected with, whether ideas or places. You cant send me to Chile
to write an article about rounding up cattle, or to France to
cover the next election. I have no interest in that. I just paint
pictures of places that I love, places that have meaning for me.
I write essays. I take walks with my wife. I greet the ospreys
and free the chickadees trapped in the breezeway. Thats my
life. Thats what I believe in.
Tonino: Of being caught alone in a storm on an open
alpine plateau, you write: I wait, ruminating on the impossibility of escape and the wisdom and freedom buried in the
impossibility of escape. Can you expand on this?
Turner: One of the things we do with our minds to get
away from the present moment is generate hopes, fears, and
predictions about the world, what might be called the nothere, not-now. But I dont believe in hope. Hope is a cosmic
joke. Look at what happened to President Obama and hope.
Life is too filled with contingency to waste time on hope; hope
places you in the future, not here. And predictions? We cant
even predict the weather two days from now.
The passage you quoted describes a big storm in the
Beartooth Mountains that I weathered with my beloved dog
Rio. We were above the timberline, totally exposed, nowhere
to run to, and the flashes of lightning spooked her. She whimpered and hid behind my leg. I held on to her by her collar and
the scruff of her neck. We were lashed by hail, wind, and rain.
I didnt know if the lightning was going to hit us. What do you
do in that situation? You cant turn off the storm or retreat or
control what will happen in a minute. You just grab the scruff
of your dogs neck and hold on. Just hold on. Theres a tremendous freedom in turning off the mind-flood and holding on
to your beloved dog. You can lament the torrent I have no
control or you can accept it: here it is, this is whats happening.
Tonino: Metaphorically this notion can be applied to
global social and ecological crises. Were all stuck in a storm,
bearing with it moment by moment.
Turner: Yes. Free the chickadee. Hold on to your dog. n
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Mountain
Lions
Jack Turner
William Blake