Powder Coating Leaf Springs

Powder Coating leaf springs
#6874989 - Sun Oct 16 2011 09:04 PM
I was planing on taking apart my leaf springs and having them powder coated. My question
is would the heat from the oven damage(De arch)the springs.
Thanks
Post Extras:
MarkM
top fuel
Re: Powder Coating leaf

springs [Re: mridolfo]
#6875085 - Sun Oct 16 2011 09:49 PM
I can't speak to the question about the oven, but I would

think the powder coating would crack and flake off with the
flexing of the springs.
Reged: Jan 13 2005
Loc: USA, MI
-------------------'87 Fifth Avenue 360/518/8.75

-- 500ci low deck stroker in the works --
Post Extras:
Ma$terGla$$er...
Willy Makit

springs [Re: MarkM]
#6875095 - Sun Oct 16 2011 09:56 PM
Just paint-em with some good engine enamel ...

-------------------Reged: Jul 04 2008
Loc: WINNING - in PaRaDiSe ....Bra...
....
in' ain't EZ ! .....
Post Extras:
Scott Carl
I Can't Relate!!

springs [Re: MarkM]
#6875252 - Mon Oct 17 2011 12:09 AM
Quote:
Reged: Aug 21 2008

Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
I can't speak to the question about the oven, but I would think the
powder coating would crack and flake off with the flexing of the
springs.
Powder coating should be fairly flexible. At least the product

I'm familiar with is. However, if the ovens raised the spring
temp above 400 degrees f, then temper of the springs could
become an issue as many spring steels temper anywhere
around 400. 350 and lower,it shouldn't be a problem. Any
metallurgists, powdercoaters care to confirm or deny?
--------------------
*Improvise, Adapt and Overcome!!*

"...the reason for living was to get ready to stay dead a
long time." **
**(William Faulkner)
Post Extras:
jcc
Wheres My Tin Foil Hat?

#6875340 - Mon Oct 17 2011 06:04 AM
Reged: Dec 21 2003

Loc: Here
I was always taught the reason stressed items were not

chrome plated was that the plating visually hid stress
cracking. The same might be said for powder coating, but
then who ever checks their leaf springs for telltale
cracks?
I personally would not powder coat them
-------------------Often stated, "Everyone has a right to their opinion", but
what is seldom divulged "But I'll certainly hold yours
against you"
Edited by jcc (Mon Oct 17 2011 06:10 AM)
Post Extras:
POS Dakota
super stock

#6875343 - Mon Oct 17 2011 06:08 AM
Reged: Dec 27 2009

Loc: detroit, mi
dogdays
moparts member
With paints out there as good as rust bullet and POR-15, I

would go that route.
Post Extras:

springs [Re: POS Dakota]
#6875596 - Mon Oct 17 2011 10:29 AM
Reged: Jan 20 2003
The real reason you don't chrome plate suspension parts is

because of HYDROGEN EMBRITTLEMENT. It works like this:
when the part is being plated, hydrogen atoms migrate into
the steel. There is enough space for a hydrogen atom to fit
in the matrix. But the hydrogen atom isn't "happy" with
being all alone and "wants" to join up with another
hydrogen atom to make an H2 molecule. There isn't enough
room in the matrix for that. Thus, the steel is internally
stressed and can break with a brittle-appearing fracture at
much lower stresses than the original steel part. To safely
use chromed suspension parts the part has to be baked for
several hours after plating to drive out the hydrogen atoms,
even then you can't be sure.
R.
PS: To all those who know the correct ways to refer to the
atoms, ions and molecules, I apologize as I can't remember
after 35 years away from the classroom.

Post Extras:
burdar
Owen's Dad

springs [Re: dogdays]
#6875658 - Mon Oct 17 2011 11:22 AM
Reged: Oct 31 2006

Loc: Iowa
Another option is to blast the springs and leave them bare

metal. Coat them with RPM so they don't rust.
--------------------
Post Extras:
gomangoRTSE
pro stock

springs [Re: burdar]
#6876048 - Mon Oct 17 2011 04:40 PM
Reged: Apr 21 2005

Loc: west kentucky
Coat them with RPM? Im sorry, what is this?

Post Extras:
Kudakidd
Kuda's Gone, the Kidd Remains

springs [Re: gomangoRTSE]
#6876179 - Mon Oct 17 2011 06:06 PM
Spend your money elsewhere. Powder coating a flexible

part is asking for headaches.
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Witness Protection Program
--------------------
Kate Kidd
2-27-54 ~ 4-28-12
Forever loved
Post Extras:
mridolfo
enthusiast

springs [Re: Kudakidd]
#6876368 - Mon Oct 17 2011 07:59 PM
Reged: Mar 20 2005
The oven temp would be 330 degrees. I work in a Ecoat powdercoat shop so its not going to cost anything.
Post Extras:
burdar
Owen's Dad

#6877159 - Tue Oct 18 2011 11:41 AM
Quote:
Reged: Oct 31 2006

Loc: Iowa
Coat them with RPM? Im sorry, what is this?
http://www.ecsautomotive.com/RPM/
--------------------
Post Extras:
jcc

#6877495 - Tue Oct 18 2011 03:55 PM
Reged: Dec 21 2003

Loc: Here
Quote:
The real reason you don't chrome plate suspension parts is

because of HYDROGEN EMBRITTLEMENT. It works like this: when
the part is being plated, hydrogen atoms migrate into the steel.
There is enough space for a hydrogen atom to fit in the matrix.
But the hydrogen atom isn't "happy" with being all alone and
"wants" to join up with another hydrogen atom to make an H2
molecule. There isn't enough room in the matrix for that. Thus,
the steel is internally stressed and can break with a brittleappearing fracture at much lower stresses than the original steel
part. To safely use chromed suspension parts the part has to be
baked for several hours after plating to drive out the hydrogen
atoms, even then you can't be sure.

R.
PS: To all those who know the correct ways to refer to the atoms,
ions and molecules, I apologize as I can't remember after 35 years
away from the classroom.
Good reply, however that applies to most plating and should

make many scratch their heads regarding using yellow zinc
plated grade 8 bolts, etc. My plater says they after bake my
grade 8, stressed stuff, but how does one really know?
against you"
Post Extras:
Rug_Trucker
My posts are intoxicating!

springs [Re: jcc]
#6877646 - Tue Oct 18 2011 05:17 PM
Reged: Jan 19 2003

Loc: Not2farfromNashville, TN
I thought sand blasting is not good for springs, or torsion

bars?
-------------------"The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good
men to do nothing"
"NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"
Post Extras:
dogdays
moparts member

springs [Re: Rug_Trucker]
#6878695 - Wed Oct 19 2011 11:11 AM
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Two comments:
Rug, I would not sandblast a torsion bar or leaf spring
because if the sand is sharp enough it could put
discontinuities in the surface that would initiate cracks. The

exterior fiber is the most highly stressed.
However, shot blasting or peening may have a positive
effect.
On the other topic, I have not understood that to be the
case with yellow dichromate bolts, maybe that's why the
ARP stuff is black? I wanna know.
R.
Post Extras:
peabodyracing
pro stock

#6878855 - Wed Oct 19 2011 12:44 PM
Reged: Jan 01 2007

Loc: Minnesota
We blast and powder coat coil springs, leaf springs and

torsion bars all the time here. We've done them for cars, 4
wheelers, motorcycles, trailers, mudders, etc. (JIT Powder
Coating, Farmington, MN) In 10 years of catering to the
hobbiest I've yet to have any come back for paint failure.
We use a crushed glass/plastic media combo for blasting
which works very well for maintaining a good surface
appearance. The cure cycle on most typical blacks like we
put on springs is 18-20 minutes at 340-360 degrees F. This
is the desired surface temp of the painted part, not the cure
oven temp set point. This isn't enough temp or dwell time
to affect the spring.
If you've ever visited a spring shop and seen how they're
made I don't think you'd be concerned about cure oven
temps.
As previously mentioned there is no similarity at all
between chrome plating and powder coating.
-------------------Lead, follow or get the hell out of the way
Post Extras:
jcc

springs [Re: peabodyracing]
#6878943 - Wed Oct 19 2011 02:05 PM
Reged: Dec 21 2003

Loc: Here
Quote:
As previously mentioned there is no similarity at all between
chrome plating and powder coating.
So which one is the one that you can see stress cracks
beginning underneath?
against you"
Post Extras:
dogdays
moparts member

springs [Re: jcc]
#6878953 - Wed Oct 19 2011 02:18 PM
Reged: Jan 20 2003
It's been my experience that any brittle coating will show

cracks when the substrate deforms. I use it to discover
where deformation has occurred. Chrome either cracks or
flakes. Powder coat cracks unless it is very elastic. Paint
cracks. Even mill scale, the blackish stuff on the surface of
hot rolled steel, will crack if the part deforms.
Of course, I was using something I had already learned. An
older way of determining strains in parts (before finite
element analysis) was to make a part and coat it with
special paint called "brittle coat". Then load the part.
Remove the load and inspect the part. Cracks in the brittle
coat would be perpendicular to the strain. One could tell
from the cracks what strains were occurring.
R.
Post Extras:
Barnabas_Kriss
super gas

#6879831 - Wed Oct 19 2011 11:12 PM
Reged: Jan 21 2003

Loc: Maple Ridge, BC, Canada
Powder coating leaf springs should be just fine! I had it

done on two cars, one over 10 years ago. Still looks as good
as the day it was done, no cracking whatsoever. Same with
the torsion bars. No sag in the springs either. I wouldn't go
any other route except for a true 100 point OEM resto.
Post Extras:
THESHAKERPROJECT
super stock

springs [Re: Barnabas_Kriss]
#6880496 - Thu Oct 20 2011 12:20 PM
Reged: Jan 13 2007

Loc: NORTHERN VA
I would do it if the springs are pit free after blasting (most

are not) and BTW, after you blast and powdercoat , get a
re-build kit with the interleafs and straps you may have
over $500 into a set of old worn out springs.
Post Extras:
jcc

#6880580 - Thu Oct 20 2011 01:48 PM
Reged: Dec 21 2003

Loc: Here
Quote:
It's been my experience that any brittle coating will show cracks
when the substrate deforms. I use it to discover where
deformation has occurred. Chrome either cracks or flakes. Powder
coat cracks unless it is very elastic. Paint cracks. Even mill scale,
the blackish stuff on the surface of hot rolled steel, will crack if the
part deforms.
Of course, I was using something I had already learned. An older
way of determining strains in parts (before finite element analysis)
was to make a part and coat it with special paint called "brittle
coat". Then load the part. Remove the load and inspect the part.
Cracks in the brittle coat would be perpendicular to the strain. One
could tell from the cracks what strains were occurring.
R.
I agree to a large degree, however I think the issue with

chrome is it can delaminate, hiding a beginning crack, and
as others seem to think, powder coating is elastic, which
would delay? a coating crack. the brittle paint idea is cool.
Regardless this is splitting hairs, unless this is an F1
site.
against you"
Post Extras:
roe
Batman!!!

springs [Re: THESHAKERPROJECT]
#6881787 - Fri Oct 21 2011 09:20 AM
Quote:
Reged: Jan 20 2005

Loc: Central TX
I would do it if the springs are pit free after blasting (most are
not) and BTW, after you blast and powdercoat , get a re-build kit
with the interleafs and straps you may have over $500 into a set
of old worn out springs.
Where can you get a rebuild kit with the interleafs and
straps? If I can afford to replace my springs, then Im
thinking about pulling mine, wire wheeling them, paint
them black, and then reinstalling...and some of the
interleafs really need to be replaced. And just to be sure,
the interleafs refer to the little plastic peices at in between
the tips of the leafs right?
thanks
roe
--------------------
1971 Plymouth Satellite Custom

408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
Post Extras:
THESHAKERPROJECT
super stock

springs [Re: roe]
#6881892 - Fri Oct 21 2011 10:24 AM
Reged: Jan 13 2007

Loc: NORTHERN VA
Try Totally Auto , Mega parts,RT Spec...ect . I think most

were around $80 or so the last time I got one. They should
include the plastic end pieces and the interleafs (the
stamped steel pieces between the springs)and the straps.
Remember, when you strip/fill the
pits/rebuild,restrap,repaint,many hours of labor and you
still have a re-built set of worn out springs. I have done it a

few times and the third time, I just ordered a new set.
ESPO has a good set of springs for the price.
Post Extras:
maximus
mopar

springs [Re: THESHAKERPROJECT]
#6883026 - Sat Oct 22 2011 05:27 AM
Reged: Feb 21 2005

Loc: MI, Lapeer
I use POR-15 also, 6 years later and it looks like the day I
painted them. Very flexible paint.
aking leaf springs apart to add a leaf - Tools needed?

#8458741 - Fri Mar 13 2015 12:32 PM
Three of my cars have sagging rear springs. I have donor spring sets I can take apart to
add a leaf on each side.
Are any special tools needed to separate the spring packs & put new clamps back on?
Post Extras:
Any tips from those that have done this before?

Thanks!
-------------------Please email if you need to contact me, PMs are shut off & I can not afford to return all the
long distance calls, so I don't. So, please email or write a letter. If you write & do not
include an email address, please include a a SASE.
mopowers
master
Re: Taking leaf springs apart to add a

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: Alaskan_TA]
#8458773 - Fri Mar 13 2015 01:14 PM
Reged: Sep 12 2006

Loc: Sac, CA
Once the spring is out, all you need is a c-clamp or large clampstyle vise grip, and a wrench to take them apart. So easy a child
can do it.
--------------------
Post Extras:
MoparforLife
moparts member

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: mopowers]
#8458804 - Fri Mar 13 2015 01:39 PM
Reged: Jan 19 2003

Loc: Upper Midwest
Do it the easy way: don't even remove the main leaf from the
hangers. Jack up vehicle and put on stands. remove lower from
plate, Remove ubolts from spring mounts, Jack rear end housing
up away from springs and leave under vehicle so that all you have
to do is let it back down into position, remove tie bolt, drop leaves
off main leaf, position new leaf in the order desired, Use a longer
tie bolt and hang all the leave is order but at various angles, now
tighten the tie bolt and as tightening swing the leaves into
position, when tight cut off excess tie bolt.
I usually just find a pair of main leaves and cut off the eyes and
position next to the main leaf. No need to make it a major back
breaking operation.
Post Extras:
therocks
Yankee Lover With My Kid

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: MoparforLife]
#8459259 - Fri Mar 13 2015 09:29 PM
Reged: Jan 20 2003

Loc: Niles , Ohio
Get new spring studs also.I get mine from local spring shop.NAPA
did have them.You will have to cut them down after they are
tightened as they are long.Rocky
-------------------Chrysler Firepower
Post Extras:
DaytonaTurbo
I Could Care Less...But I'm

Not Going To

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: therocks]
#8459351 - Fri Mar 13 2015 10:50 PM
Couple if big c clamps and your off.

-------------------Reged: Feb 26 2003
Loc: Manitoba, Canada
Post Extras:
RapidRobert
circle track

#8459380 - Fri Mar 13 2015 11:41 PM
Reged: Nov 20 2003

Loc: Lincoln Nebraska
alot of times the rounded head special bolt the threads (even tho 1
or 2) are fubared from road debris. Crack/remove the nut with a
nut cracker so as to not chance breaking the shank. As said (2) C
clamps
-------------------live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Post Extras:
Alaskan_TA
Fluffy Balladeer

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: RapidRobert]
#8460882 - Sun Mar 15 2015 12:58 PM
Thanks for the tips guys!
Reged: Jan 20 2003

Loc: Still moving in.
-------------------Please email if you need to contact me, PMs are shut off & I can
not afford to return all the long distance calls, so I don't. So,
please email or write a letter. If you write & do not include an
email address, please include a a SASE.
Post Extras:
buildanother
Mr. Loquacious

#8460917 - Sun Mar 15 2015 01:23 PM
Reged: Aug 30 2005

Loc: chicagoland,usa
Have used 3/8" conn. rod bolts as center bolts in the past here. As
long as the springs packs aren't too numeric in leaf count, and
hole is big enough.
The 9/16" nut usually fits in pad or shock
mount plate.
Post Extras:
Sunroofcuda
speak softly, but carry a big

powerstick
Reged: Jan 20 2003

Loc: Highland, MI.

#8460945 - Sun Mar 15 2015 01:49 PM
Barry, let me know if you need new spring tip pads (the black
plastic pads with the short barrel clips) as I have NOS. I also made
the spring clamps for Year One for many years & recently declined
to make any more of them, but I still have some leftover extras.
There are two sizes of these: the short ones go around 3 leaves,
the long ones go around 4 leaves. I do not have the zinc interliners
or any more of the rubber clamp pads. Let me know. Also, my
spring clamps are clear zinc plated so they look silvery like new
steel. OE clamp bands were bare steel. Mine are also the same
style as the OE ones that have the tab you fold over. When you try
to remove old ones, the tab always breaks off so the clamp is
trash.
-------------------NO MAN WITH A GOOD CAR NEEDS TO BE JUSTIFIED.
For the best sounding exhaust in the world & OEM STEEL WHEELS,
visit: www.classicchambered.com
Post Extras:
Alaskan_TA
Fluffy Balladeer

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: Sunroofcuda]
#8460989 - Sun Mar 15 2015 02:31 PM
Thanks Eric. It looks like all the soft parts will be fine, the cars
have under 40k miles & the donor springs are in excellent
condition as well.
Reged: Jan 20 2003
I am not sure what & will need for clamps yet, I will send you an
email.

Post Extras:
Stewpar
top fuel

#8461020 - Sun Mar 15 2015 03:27
PM Attachment (22 downloads)
Reged: Mar 02 2004

Loc: Wisconsin
If you go with new clamps, make sure to pre-bend the tip a bit so
it fits into the square opening with ease.........
Then, two C-clamps and a hard plastic hammer and you are good
to go!!!!
-------------------Admiration For Multiple Carburetor Vehicles...
Post Extras:
Magnum
master

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: Stewpar]
#8461473 - Sun Mar 15 2015 10:15 PM
Reged: Jan 24 2003

Loc: Hamilton, Ontario
Canada
Higher spring rate equals more axle control and handing but
remember ride quality will be sacrificed.
If you JUST want to change the ride height. Have a local leaf
spring shop rearch your springs.
-------------------69 Coronet, 97 Silverado, 99 Caravan, 93 Mustang
Post Extras:
Alaskan_TA
Fluffy Balladeer

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: Magnum]
#8462075 - Mon Mar 16 2015 04:38 PM
Quote:
Reged: Jan 20 2003

NAPA did have them.
Do you happen to have a part number Rocky? I know they use

generic photos online at times, but I did not see anything close in
the ten pages they had listed.
Post Extras:
RapidRobert
circle track

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: therocks]
#8462546 - Tue Mar 17 2015 12:11 AM
Reged: Nov 20 2003

Quote:
Get new spring studs also.I get mine from local spring shop.NAPA did
have them.You will have to cut them down after they are tightened as
they are long.Rocky
Get ones with the flat (like OE) on the inside of the u bolt "curve"
if you can find em. If you think you might be taking em apart
anytime soon I'd run a rethreading die up the threads then cut it
below where the die is then unscrew the die to chase the threads.
makes it easy for the nuts to come back off/on if ever needed in
the future
Post Extras:
Alaskan_TA
Fluffy Balladeer

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: RapidRobert]
#8462563 - Tue Mar 17 2015 12:47
AM Attachment (6 downloads)
Are you are talking about the U-bolts maybe?

Reged: Jan 20 2003
I am looking for the locating studs that hold the spring pack
together.
Post Extras:
kentj340
super stock

#8462592 - Tue Mar 17 2015 01:31
AM Attachment (8 downloads)
Reged: Mar 04 2011

Loc: Houston
The top end of that fastener is hidden, so even if you are doing a
factory original restoration, nobody will know if you cheated and
used a high strength socket screw instead.
The heads of the generic, hardware store socket screws were just
the right diameter - plus you can use an Allen wrench to tighten.
Hack saw to length as needed.
-------------------If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
Post Extras:
gtx6970
I Live Here

#8462672 - Tue Mar 17 2015 08:27 AM
Reged: Jun 28 2003

Loc: Land of Booze and
Horses
rubber mallet or plastic tip dead blow hammer.

I use 3 or 4 C clamp vice grips and a few of those plastic tip slide
clamps from Harbor Freight
Then a brass blunt tip punch to bend the small tip in place once
the clamp is all bent around the spring
-------------------http://www.facebook.com/pages/AM-High-TechAutomotive/408528952539495
Post Extras:
skicker
Please help. I need a new

title.
Reged: Jun 09 2005
Loc: Western Md.

#8462675 - Tue Mar 17 2015 08:33 AM
Quote:
I am looking for the locating studs that hold the spring pack together.
Barry there is a shop in Hagerstown that carries all of the spring

parts. (Hagerstown Spring) You may have a similar shop in
Carlisle...
-------------------The best things in life are somebody else's.....
Post Extras:
RapidRobert
circle track

#8462755 - Tue Mar 17 2015 10:33 AM
Reged: Nov 20 2003

Quote:
Are you are talking about the U-bolts maybe?

I am looking for the locating studs that hold the spring pack together.
Yes I got off on a tangent & also on the U bolts if I am saving them
I unbolt the nuts just far enough to get a nut cracker on them
also. unthreading them by hand ain't a job for the weak (impact
required) & damages the nicked threads further & a nut
cracker/rethreading die solves that & will make installing new nuts
easy peasy. EDIT For sure use the nut cracker on the rounded
head bolt as it only takes several minutes and I ain't sure the allen
head bolts have a long enough head to fully engage the perch(s),
but I have not checked em & maybe full engagment ain't critical
that the U bolts take care of most of the securing but I dont like
taking unneccessary chances. If you have a nut cracker use it
Edited by RapidRobert (Tue Mar 17 2015 11:19 AM)
Post Extras:
moper
moparts techie

leaf - Tools needed? [Re: kentj340]
#8462814 - Tue Mar 17 2015 11:34 AM
Reged: Feb 03 2003

Loc: Columbia, CT
Quote:
The top end of that fastener is hidden, so even if you are doing a factory
original restoration, nobody will know if you cheated and used a high
strength socket screw instead.
The heads of the generic, hardware store socket screws were just the
right diameter - plus you can use an Allen wrench to tighten. Hack saw to
length as needed.
x2. It only aligns the axle - it doesn't hold it in place. So you don't
need the perfect NOS part unless these are restos nor does it need
to be hardened. Any bolt will do as long as the head fits the hole in
the spring perch.
-------------------Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water!
And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and
stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than
rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.

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Powder Coating leaf springs

#6874989 - Sun Oct 16 2011 09:04 PM

Re: Powder Coating leaf

I can't speak to the question about the oven, but I would

-------------------'87 Fifth Avenue 360/518/8.75

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Just paint-em with some good engine enamel ...

in' ain't EZ ! .....

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Aug 21 2008

Powder coating should be fairly flexible. At least the product

*Improvise, Adapt and Overcome!!*

Wheres My Tin Foil Hat?

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Dec 21 2003

I was always taught the reason stressed items were not

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Dec 27 2009

With paints out there as good as rust bullet and POR-15, I

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 20 2003

The real reason you don't chrome plate suspension parts is

after 35 years away from the classroom.

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Oct 31 2006

Another option is to blast the springs and leave them bare

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Apr 21 2005

Coat them with RPM? Im sorry, what is this?

Kuda's Gone, the Kidd Remains

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Spend your money elsewhere. Powder coating a flexible

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Mar 20 2005

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Oct 31 2006

Coat them with RPM? Im sorry, what is this?

Wheres My Tin Foil Hat?

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Dec 21 2003

The real reason you don't chrome plate suspension parts is

atoms, even then you can't be sure.

away from the classroom.

Good reply, however that applies to most plating and should

My posts are intoxicating!

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 19 2003

I thought sand blasting is not good for springs, or torsion

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 20 2003

discontinuities in the surface that would initiate cracks. The

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 01 2007

We blast and powder coat coil springs, leaf springs and

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Dec 21 2003

As previously mentioned there is no similarity at all between

chrome plating and powder coating.

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 20 2003

It's been my experience that any brittle coating will show

Re: Powder Coating leaf

Reged: Jan 21 2003

Improvise, Adapt and Overcome!!