How to Make a Chair

1. First you get wood boards.

2. Then you shape the parts for a seat, legs and back.
3. Nail them together with wood braces.
4. Then you have a chair.
5. You have to paint it and you are done !!!

Step 1: Ingredients
What you'll need for this project:
Cardboard at the length and width of how long you'll want your organizer
A gluestick
tape
scissors
thin cardboard boxes
wrapping paper
a good TV show

Step 2: Shapes
Take your cardboard and determine how long and wide you'll want it. I decided that I
wanted one that was long and thin, so I cut my cardboard accordingly.
Then taking some tape, tape the corners as shown in the second picture. This
reduces the bulkiness that would have been there if we were to have folded in the
sides.

Step 3:
Now you'll need to take those thin cardboard boxes (I have a jelly powder box, the
box that held my film, and a Benadryl one), and arrange them into the cardboard
box you've created. Make sure that they fit within the box and that there's a little
wiggle room. The wiggle room will allow you to wrap the box and still have it fit
snugly.
Once you've decided on how you'll arrange the boxes, take your scissors and snip
off the top face of the box. Don't worry if the box starts to fall apart, you can always
tape it back together!

Steps

Build a Cuboard

1.
Plan your cabinets. Standard counter depth is 25", which the cabinets themselves
being 24" to allow for a 1" countertop lip. Standard counter height is 36", with the
cabinets usually being around 34.5" tall to allow room for the countertop material.
For upper (or wall) cabinets, add 18-20" to the 36" counter height. Any space left
over between that distance and your ceiling is fair game for upper cabinets. The
cabinet width can be anywhere from 12-60", but always should be made in 3"
increments. The most

2.
Cut the sides. Cut out the side pieces out of 3/4" MDF, plywood, or an appropriate
type of laminate. As the sides will not be seen, the material appearance does not
matter, only the strength and durability. These panels will be 34.5" high and 24"
wide. Clamp the two sides together and then use a jigsaw to cut a 3x5.5" toekick in
one corner of the panels. This will be your bottom front corner.
If making upper or wall cabinets, the measurements should reflect your
personal tastes. Standard depth is around 12-14". Height depends on how tall you
want them to be and how high your ceilings are. The toe kick is obviously
unnecessary in this case.

3.
Cut the bottom. The bottom piece will be 24" deep but the width will depend on
the dimensions of your kitchen. Make sure that the width of the bottom section
accounts for the width that will be added by the side pieces being added on either
side.

4.
Cut the front and back base panels. Use 1x6 lumber and cut two pieces to the
width that you cut your bottom panel. Skip this step if making wall cabinets.

5.
Cut the top brace panels. Cut two more pieces at the same width to hold the top
ends together. Skip this step if making wall cabinets.

6.
Cut the facing panels. The facing panels will be assembled like a picture frame
and will be the main part of the cabinets that show. Since this is the case, you will
want to use dimensional lumber in a wood that appeals to you in order to make
these panels. Good sizes to use, depending on the part of the face and the style you
want,

7.
Join the base panels to the bottom. Align and glue the base panels so that one
flat face is flush with the back edge of the panel and the other is 3" back from the
front end. Then, using butt joints, screw through the cabinet base and into the edge
of the panels. Pilot holes are a good idea here.

8.
Join the sides to the bottom. Glue and then secure (again with butt joints) the
side panels to the base and bottom structure, fitting the toe-kick in with the gap you
made. Make sure all of the edges are flush. Clamps and angle measuring tools can
make this easier.

9.
Secure the top brace panels. Next glue and secure (so many butt joints) the back
brace panel so that it will sit flat against the wall. The front brace panel should be
placed so that it will sit flush with the countertop, once the countertop is placed.

10.
Nail on a back panel. Measure and then screw a 1/2" plywood back panel into
place. A thicker back panel will be needed for wall cabinets, like 3/4" MDF.

11.
Reinforce the joints. Now, reinforce all the joints with corner brackets and screws.

12.
Install the shelves. Measure, mark, and level locations for at least four corner
brackets (two to a side) and then slide in the shelves. Wait to add the shelves for
wall cabinets.

13.
Add the facing panels. Assemble the facing panels into one unit like you would
assemble a picture frame. You can use flat joints or you can miter them. Pocket
holes, dowels, or mortise and tenon joints should be used, according to your skill
level, to join the pieces together. Nail and the countersink the nails to attach the
completed face to the cabinet.

14.
Place the cabinets. Place the cabinets in their location. Screw through the back
panel and into the wall studs to secure the cabinet it place. Upper cabinets may
require more support, such as L brackets (than can be covered up by a backsplash),
if you plan to put heavy items such as dishes in the cabinet.
15.
Install the doors. Install the doors onto the face panels as recommended by their
manufacturer. You can also install drawers, but this can become quite complex and
is not recommended for a beginner.