France & the Low Countries

7 8 March 2015

Participants: Josh Jones, Harry Murphy and James Shergold

Introduction
Words Josh Jones | Images Josh Jones unless stated
Spurred on by the presence of a wintering Wallcreeper in Belgium, I decided to organise a weekend trip in early March
2015 that combined this dashing sprite with a rather less alluring array of introduced (Category C) species that reside
in neighbouring France and the Netherlands an acquired taste perhaps, but necessary for anyone wanting to put
together a big Western Palearctic list.
Though I had visited the Netherlands (more specifically, Amsterdam) on a few occasions previously, this was to be
Harry and James first visit and, in the case of the former, a first true taste of birding outside the UK. We therefore
included a number of additional, secondary targets to try should we clear up on the main quarry of the trip which, in
theory, would make for a fruitful and enjoyable weekend of birding on the Near Continent.

Logistics
While it is easy to visit each country via air or ferry, both have their limitations when time is of the essence. We
therefore opted to drive, taking the car from Folkestone to Calais via Eurotunnel. The cheapest fares can naturally be
found at the most unsociable times of day; our outward journey was at 01:10 on Saturday morning, returning at 22:20
on Sunday evening this costing just 60 when booked three weeks in advance.
Driving was straightforward throughout the trip. Tolls were limited to a couple in France and another for using a tunnel
in Belgium. Furthermore the cost of diesel was considerably lower than in Britain we paid 1.32 (96 pence) per litre
to fill up in Culemborg, Netherlands. Navigation was almost exclusively thanks to the satellite navigation system
present in the Google Maps app the wonders of modern technology..!

Having arrived in Hesdin at an ungodly hour on Saturday morning and thus with no need for a hotel, our only night in
accommodation was on Saturday evening. We stayed at the Hotel Epping in IJsselstein; the triple room was very
pleasant and at 75, very good value for money. We ended up eating in the hotel, which offers an all you can eat tapas
option for 30. Naturally we indulged; the food was absolutely excellent and comes highly recommended.

Resources & Acknowledgements

The Dutch (waarneming.nl) and Belgian (waarnemingen.be) sections of nature sightings website Observado proved
invaluable for gen on our target species, and are an essential for anyone planning a visit to either country. Special
thanks must go to Thierry Jansen, who organised a friend to take us to a Black Woodpecker territory on the Sunday
morning and also helped with other gen. Our birding in France was limited to one forest for Reevess Pheasant; thanks
to Vincent Legrand for providing GPS and maps on exactly where to go for those.

Itinerary
With just two full days to play with the trip was never likely to be one conducted at a relaxed pace, and so it proved
with the final mileage total falling just short of the 1,000 mark by the time we reached London late evening on Sunday.
Nevertheless the pleasant scenery, quiet roads and enjoyable birding stops ensured that the amount of travelling felt
in no way strenuous.
Saturday 7th March early morning birding in France at Fort dHesdin, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, before drive eastwards in
to Belgium, arriving at Dinant early afternoon. Afternoon around Dinant before short drive north to Andenne, birding
woods south-east of the town late afternoon. Early evening drive towards Utrecht, Netherlands. Overnight in
IJsselstein.
Sunday 8th March day of birding in the Netherlands. Early morning in woods east of Utrecht before heading south to
Culemborg for late morning. Afternoon spent first journeying westwards to Maasvlakte (via Strijen) and then south in
to Zuid-Holland. Evening drive back through Belgium to Calais to catch late evening Eurotunnel departure for
Folkestone.

Daily Diary
7th March 2015
A tiring night of travelling was relieved only by a 20-minute nap on the Eurotunnel as we made our way to France and
we eventually arrived in the town of Hesdin, Nord-Pas-de-Calais, at around 4 am. It was already coming light by 6 am
and so we bundled out of the car and in to the dawning day. Fort dHesdin lies just to the north-west of the town and
was home to our first quarry Reevess Pheasant, an introduced species in France which is placed on Category C of
the national list.
Walking along the main track from the west end of the woods, we were initially concerned at an almost total lack of
pheasant activity. Nevertheless a typical array of woodland species were noted with Short-toed Treecreeper,
Nuthatch and Great Spotted Woodpecker all vocal. Fortunately it wasnt long before a dashing black-and-white head
was picked up, radiant in the gloom a male Reevess Pheasant! Standing on a log and staring at us intently at a range
of 100 m, it soon scuttled off in to the forest undergrowth and was lost to view. Pleased that the main target had been
bagged so quickly, we decided to continue on in search of better views. A vocal Hawfinch zipping about the treetops
was the first of a few at this site, while Common Pheasant could occasionally be heard calling and Common Buzzard
was also added to the trip list.
Diverting from the track brought instant reward with brief views of another male Reevess Pheasant, followed by a
small group of female-types. It was quite unusual to see this species flush and fly up in to the canopy to perch on high
boughs certainly not behaviour youd expect from its commoner cousin. Having realised that the pheasants were a

little more secretive than wed anticipated we decided to head back to the car and drive the forest tracks, using the
car as a hide. This turned out to be a good decision with fabulous views of a male Reevess approximately 2 km to the
east which, as soon as we got out the car to photograph, bolted off in to the forest on a surprisingly rapid pair of legs!

Reevess Pheasant

Pleased with this early success we opted to begin the long eastward drive in to Belgium. The journey was generally
unremarkable save for the odd Common Buzzard, though we did fluke a ringtail Hen Harrier flying over the road
somewhere in the Ardennes region. Eventually arriving in the picturesque town of Dinant early afternoon, we drove
straight to the Palais de Justice where our quarry had been reported most frequently. Unfortunately an hour of
scanning the cliffs here and around the citadel to the north proved fruitless, and so we decided to search exposed rock
faces further south. This proved a good move as, shortly after stopping, both Harry and James had the Wallcreeper fly
over the car and heading for the nearby cliffs. Rather typically I was too busy admiring a group of Black-headed Gulls
on the river and missed the sighting; with no sign of it on the cliffs we headed back north to the Palais de Justice and,
after a short while, Harry relocated the bird showing well.
Having had terrible views of a Wallcreeper at Les Baux in March 2014, I was thrilled with the altogether more satisfying
views given by this bird. Initially on the cliffs, it then moved across the buildings and we enjoyed some excellent views
as it characteristically crept around the walls, flashing its crimson wings as it went. At times it would even disappear
up in to the eves for several minutes at a time, presumably in search of spiders or other tasty morsels. A bonus came
in the form of an overflying Peregrine while several Common Buzzards also patrolled the ridge in the pleasantly mild
early spring sunshine.

Wallcreeper

Having secured great views of one of our main targets and with a few hours of light remaining, we set about targeting
a bonus bird. Waarnemingen suggested that woods near Andenne, some 50km to the north-east, had produced recent
sightings and so we headed in that direction. Our first speculative stop produced good views of singing Short-toed

Treecreeper as well as Great Spotted Woodpecker and Jay among other typical woodland species but no reply to
playback. Fortunately our second stop, a few kilometres further down the road, almost instantly produced the
response wed been hoping for a calling Middle Spotted Woodpecker. Over the following 30 minutes we enjoyed
excellent views of a male in the treetops while its mate called nearby. Evidently they were on territory and it was great
to bag such pleasing views to round off a very successful first day.
The rest of the evening was spent driving towards Utrecht with a couple of roadside Great White Egrets the only birds
of note. On the way there James pulled an absolute blinder by booking us in to Hotel Epping in IJsselstein. Not only
did the room prove excellent value for money but, for an additional 30, we were treated to all-you-can-eat tapas in
the hotels restaurant. The food was of absolutely excellent quality and we feasted for nearly three hours before finally
declaring ourselves stuffed. Washed down with a few beers this was the perfect tonic for a very tiring (yet rewarding)
Saturday. While James and I retired to the room for some much-needed sleep, testosterone-fuelled teen Harry was
altogether keener for a night on the town and headed off to a nearby bar to showcase his talents to the local Dutch
women. Alas his plan didnt come to fruition and, having been kicked out for being under-age he was soon back at the
room, tail between legs and sheepishly conceding defeat.

8th March 2015

As Harrys big night had come to a premature end he was thankfully feeling quite spritely as we rose at 6.30 am. Our
first port of call was a woodland near Zeist, on the other side of Utrecht, where Corvo birder Thierry Jansen had
arranged for his friend to show us a Black Woodpecker territory. Meeting Thierry just before 8 am, we began our walk
and were treated to a range of typical woodland species, the highlights being Hawfinch and a drumming Lesser
Spotted Woodpecker. It was glorious morning and c.200 White-fronted Geese flying high overhead were presumably
taking advantage of the conditions to begin their spring migration.
Black Woodpecker (James Shergold)
We were soon within the realm of Europes largest woodpecker, a number
of massive holes in dead or dying trees clear evidence of its presence. We
were told that the species had been breeding in the vicinity for forty years
and, bang on cue, a male Black Woodpecker uttered its sensational call.
Suddenly there it was, on a trunk just ten metres from the path. We
enjoyed some great views for another few minutes before it bounded off
deeper in to the wood. This is evidently a reliable spot for the species and
we were informed that, in some years, the pair has nested in trees right
next to the path, which is extremely busy with dog-walkers, joggers and
cyclists!
While we waited for it to return we were treated to excellent views of an
overflying female Goshawk as well as at least a couple of singing
Woodlarks over the adjacent heath. Alas the woodpecker never came back
and so we ambled back to the car park, having a quick look (unsuccessfully)
for Crested Tit, which can also be found here.
By this point it was mid-morning and we decided to head south to Culemborg, where we hoped to find what was for
me the second main target of the trip. Thankfully it took next to no effort at all and, arriving on the raised bank adjacent
to the River Lek, a large flock of Bar-headed Geese was immediately apparent. Over the next hour we tallied 73 of this
beautiful species admittedly not quite the sight a flock migrating over the Himalayas must be, but we were impressed
nonetheless. The experienced was no doubt enhanced by the glorious weather temperatures had climbed in to the
mid-teens and the sunshine was unbroken. Also along the river valley were a handful of White-fronted and our first
Barnacle Geese of the trip; a rather nasty hybrid among the goose flock appeared to show traits of Red-breasted and
was a presumably a mix of that and Barnacle Goose. To complete the glorious line-up were a couple of Greylag x Barheaded Geese alongside the ubiquitous Egyptian Geese, which are seemingly everywhere in the Netherlands. As we
turned to head back to the car, I picked up a couple of soaring White Storks an unexpected bonus for the day list.

Bar-headed Geese

With one bagged, it was time to turn our attention to that other Dutch Category C stalwart: Black Swan. With gen of
a reliable pair on the Merwedekade, south of the town of Vianen, we made the short journey in that direction. Another
White Stork was noted along the way but, upon arrival at the GPS position, we were disappointed to find a field full
of white (Mute) swans only. We neednt have panicked, though, for their Australian cousins were located a few
hundred metres further along the canal two Black Swans, and performing well to boot. Alas the experience was an
underwhelming one; I remember being altogether more excited when Id seen the species among Mute flocks in the
Netherlands previously. This pair, showing to a few metres, felt altogether less authentic and the sighting took a
peculiar turn when a passing boat spooked one of the birds, encouraging it to climb the bank, waddle across the road
and right past us, then down the other side, where it proceeded
to plunge in to a stagnant pool! Bizarre scenes indeed, and not one
to encourage WP listing newbies Harry and James with.
Keen to move on from this slightly surreal and certainly
unsatisfactory experience, we headed west to an area of polder
near the village of Strijen. This was our first taste of proper winter
Dutch birding: despite the warm and sunny day there were still
many thousands of geese here, the air echoing with the yelping of
Barnacle Geese. Also present in good numbers were Whitefronted Geese while a good selection of wildfowl and several
Common Buzzards were also noted. It took a little time to find
them, but we managed decent views of our target species at this
site four adult Lesser White-fronted Geese, a tick for both Harry
and James. Their diminutive size was obvious and, in the good light
conditions, the yellow eye-rings were also discernible along with
small, pink bill and white blaze extending over the forehead.
Leaving Strijen we chanced upon a Black Swan among a flock of
Mutes in fields west of Puttershoek as we headed west towards
our next destination Maasvlakte. As we drove there we were
Josh with Black Swan (James Shergold)
struck not only by the incredible size of the Port of Rotterdam but
its ugliness: one can only wonder why a Long-legged Buzzard has now chosen the area to winter for two years running.
Alas there was no sign of the Long-legged in an hour-long search, though we did score nice views of a female Merlin
and several Common Buzzards.
We werent reticent about leaving this industrial wasteland and, with further targets still to try, we headed off south
in to Zeeland and the Rheindelta. Roadside birds included flocks of Barnacle Geese and Great White Egrets and, as we
reached our next destination at Westplaat Buitengronden, the whitest Common Buzzard any of us had ever seen. The

reserve here harboured several thousand Barnacle Geese but we could not find our target a Red-breasted Goose
reported that morning among them. A number of new birds nevertheless made their way on to the trip list: Curlew,
Redshank, Avocet, Goosander and Dark-bellied Brent Goose among the additions. A few vocal Mediterranean Gulls
flew over while a juvenile Goshawk was a surprise, perched in a distant bush.
With the sun starting to sink on what had been a beautiful day in the Netherlands we hurriedly made our way south
to the hamlet of Battenoord, where our final (and undeniably least tasteful) target had been seen recently. Parking
up, I climbed the bank and there, before my eyes, was a shock of pink yes, it was the flamingo flock wed been hoping
for! Closer scrutiny revealed around 15 Chilean Flamingos, with a similar number of Greater Flamingos and at least a
couple of apparent American Flamingos. While not on Category C, the former is of particular interest for it has been
breeding wild for a number of decades now and thus the quest to see them was for nothing more than insurance in
the unlikely event of a future categorical re-shuffle. Thankfully there were other birds to look at here, with good
numbers of wildfowl including flocks of Dark-bellied Brent Geese as well as shorebirds such as Avocets.

Chilean and Greater Flamingos

By this point it was nearly 6 pm and the time had come to head back to Calais. Several further Great White Egrets
were seen and one of the final birds of the day was a Spoonbill flying over the car. Harrys insatiable appetite for
McDonalds persuaded us to stop for dinner at the golden arches on the outskirts of Bruges but, that aside, our journey
back to Calais was without incident, arriving there at approximately 9.30 pm. With an on-time Eurotunnel departure,
we were back in London a short while before midnight and an extremely enjoyable weekend came to a conclusion.

Selected species notes

Australian Black Swan relatively widespread in the Netherlands, this introduced species breeds in small numbers and
forms part of Category C of the Dutch list. For latest sightings, a search of the waarneming.nl database prior to a trip
comes highly recommended. We encountered a pair on the Merwedekade, south of the town of Vianen, at 51.963,
5.062 on 8th March, these apparently having been present several weeks. Another was seen among a herd of Mute
Swans in fields west of Puttershoek at 51.807, 4.523.
Bar-headed Goose another Category C species in the Netherlands, this species stronghold is along the River Lek. As
with Black Swan, recent sightings can be found at waarneming.nl. A regular hotspot appears to be along the Lek just
north of Culemborg, Gelderland, and we saw a sizeable flock of 73 birds in riverside meadows at 51.968, 5.258. Though
viewable from the raised levee, we obtained better views by walking down to the river itself.
Chilean Flamingo not yet on Category C of the Dutch list and more of an insurance job than anything, about half of a
flock of 34 flamingos on the shore of Grevelingen by the hamlet of Batternoord were this species, the others a mix of
Greater, American and hybrids. The flock, present all winter, could be easily be viewed from the bank adjacent to the
car park by the small harbour at 51.7056, 4.1280.
Reevess Pheasant this beautiful species constitutes part of Category C of the French list but its status is controversial
due to the large numbers released annually for shooting across various woodlands in the north of the country. Fort

dHesdin is no exception, although local hunters have reliably informed birders that the pheasants are breeding here
and thus the population is a mix of wild-bred and released individuals. We encountered at least ten birds in the western
part of the forest, accessed along the minor track off the D154 road at 50.4035, 1.9790. After 50 m there is a gate; it
is possible to open this and drive along the track but the pheasants are easier searched for on foot for the next 500 m
or so. Parking is recommended on the left-hand bend just before the gate (marked on the map below). The red dots
show where we saw individual males, while the blue cross indicates the area favoured by a small group of females.
Note that the final sighting (the right-hand dot) was from the car; this is some 1.5km along the track from the gate.

Black Woodpecker a fairly common species in both Belgium and the Netherlands, we encountered a male on a
traditional territory in woodland east of Zeist early morning on 8th March. Park in the small car park at the end of
Laantje Zonder Eind (52.0997, 5.2804) and walk northeast then southeast along the main track to 52.0988, 5.2903.
The woodpeckers territory is right by the main path and nest holes should be obvious in the surrounding trees.
Middle Spotted Woodpecker a localised but increasing species on the Near Continent which can be found in mature
woodland in all but coastal areas in the Low Countries. We found a pair in woods south-east of Andenne, Belgium, late
afternoon on 7th March. The pair favoured an area south of the minor road at 50.4815, 5.1350, showing well high in
trees. With no shortage of similar habitat in the area, there are no doubt further pairs to be found.

Trip list

Little Grebe
Great Crested Grebe
Cormorant
Little Egret
Great White Egret
Grey Heron
White Stork
Spoonbill
Mute Swan
Black Swan
Pink-footed goose
Greater White-fronted Goose
Lesser White-fronted Goose
Greylag Goose

Bar-headed Goose
Canada Goose
Barnacle Goose
Brent Goose
Egyptian Goose
Common Shelduck
Eurasian Wigeon
Gadwall
Eurasian Teal
Mallard
Pintail
Shoveler
Pochard
Tufted Duck

Goldeneye
Goosander
Marsh Harrier
Hen Harrier
Goshawk
Sparrowhawk
Common Buzzard
Kestrel
Merlin
Peregrine
Reevess Pheasant
Common Pheasant
Moorhen
Coot
Oystercatcher
Avocet
Ringed Plover
Golden Plover
Grey Plover
Lapwing
Knot
Dunlin
Ruff
Woodcock
Black-tailed Godwit
Curlew
Common Redshank
Black-headed Gull
Mediterranean Gull
Common Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Herring Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
Feral Pigeon
Stock Dove
Wood Pigeon
Collared Dove
Kingfisher
Black Woodpecker
Green Woodpecker
Great Spotted Woodpecker

Total: 109 species

Middle Spotted Woodpecker

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker
Sky Lark
Wood Lark
Meadow Pipit
White Wagtail
Wren
Dunnock
Robin
Blackbird
Fieldfare
Song Thrush
Redwing
Mistle Thrush
Goldcrest
Long-tailed Tit
Blue Tit
Great Tit
Coal Tit
Marsh Tit
Nuthatch
Wallcreeper
Common Treecreeper
Short-toed Treecreeper
Jay
Magpie
Jackdaw
Rook
Carrion Crow
Starling
House Sparrow
Chaffinch
Greenfinch
Goldfinch
Siskin
Linnet
Bullfinch
Hawfinch
Yellowhammer
Reed Bunting