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Teknologi Tekstil
Teknologi Tekstil
Teknologi Tekstil
by
E-mail : budiirvan346@ymail.com
Institute of Textile Technology, Bandung Indonesia
Cotton
Woll
Silk
1945
4,667
1,034
11
601
17
6,330
1955
9,492
1,265
29
2,278
266
13,330
1965
11,605
1,493
33
3,338
2,052
18,521
1975
11,757
1,538
47
2,959
7,353
23,654
1985
16,578
1,678
59
2,928
12,500
33,743
1970
1975
1980
1985
1987
1988
Polyamide
40
33
30
26
25
24
Polyester
34
45
47
50
52
53
Acrylics
21
19
19
18
17
17
Other Synthetics
Total
100
100
100
100
100
100
Approximate lengths of some material fibers are 25 to 355mm for cotton, 30 to 300mm for
wool, and 300 to 600mm for flax. The strength of spun-yarns is increased, generally, in
proportion to the length of the fiber used within a limited range. However, from a
manufacturing view point, there is a suitable fiber length for processing the material by using
several kinds of present yarn or fabric manufacturing systems.
The man-made fibers can be varied in their length. Fineness, and cross sectional shape
(profile) to meet their demands. The fines fibers can give a good appearance and handle to
their textile articles. The profile of fibers also affects their handling and appearance. Fibers
with a triangle profile have similar handle to silk, i.e. silk-like materials. Figure 1-1 shows the
fibers with interesting profiles. Tble 1-3 shows some of the technical properties of textile
fibers.
Table 1-3. Technical Properties of Textile Fibers
Fibers
(F:Filament),
Specific
(Dry)
gravity
(Wet)
(S:Staple)
Regain
(%) 20
Effect of heat (
(Soften)
(Melt)
65%
Polyester F
4.3-9.0
4.3-9.0
1.38
0.4
238-240
255-260
Polyester S
4.7-6.5
4.7-6.5
1.38
0.4
238-240
255-260
Acrylics S
2.5-5.0
2.0-4-5
1.14-
2.0
190-240
1.17
Nylon F
4.8-10.0
4.2-9.0
1.14
4.5
180(N6)
215-220(N6)
Polypropylene S
4.5-7.5
4.5-7.5
0.91
140-160
165-173
0.94-
100-115
125-135
200-230
Polypropylene F
(Low-pressure)
5.0-9.0
5.0-9.0
0.96
Polyurethane F
0.6-1.2
0.6-1.2
1.0-1.3
1.0
Rayon S
2.5-4.2
1.4-3.3
1.50-
11.0
260-300: decomposition
11.0
260-300: decomposition
11.0
Same as Rayon
1.52
Rayon F
1.7-5.2
0.8-4.1
1.501.52
Polynosic S
3.8-5.2
2.8-4.2
1.50-
1.52
Cupra F
1.8-2.7
1.1-1.9
1.50
11.0
Same as Rayon
Acetate F
1.2-1.4
0.7-0.9
1.32
6.5
200-230
260
Triacetate F
1.2-1.4
0.8-1.0
1.30
3.5
250
300
Promix F
3.5-4.5
3.2-4.2
1.22
5.0
270: decomposition
Silk
3.0-4.0
2.1-2.8
1.33-
11.0
235: decomposition
1.45
Wool
1.0-2.0
0.76-1.63
1.32
15.0
130: decomposition
Cotton
3.0-4.9
3.3-6.4
1.54
8.5
245: decomposition
Flax
6.5
7.7
1.5
12.0
200: decomposition
Melt-Spining
and Drawing
Fiber Processing
(Physical)
Finishing (Chemical)
2. Polymer chips are melted under high temperatures. The filament yarn extruded from a
nozzle is wound on a package and drawn out to give it strength. This is done heated draw
rolls.
3. The filament yarn is twisted, crimped, interlaced, blended according to order, e.g. silklike.linen-like, spun-like, wool-like ,etc.
4. Mainly processed in fabric, e.g. Surface treatment, resin, permanent pres.
Figure 1-3 shows a spinning and take-up process for synthetic filament yarns.
2. Functionality
Elasticity Spinning/Drawing process
StrengthSpinning/Drawing process
High-Youngs modulesSpinning/Drawing process
Antistatic behaviorFinishing process or Polymerization
Hydrophilic propertyFinishing process or polymerization
Soil resistanceFinishing process
So-called composite fibers are custom-tailored fibers for specialized end uses, e.g. self
crimping )for fabrics, stockings), segment separation (for super-fine fibers), self bonding (for
non-wovens), electric conductive (for antistatic), light conductive (for optical fibers), etc.
These fibers are generally divided into two basic categories; 1) two different polymers joined
in a single filament before or after extrusion, and 2 ) two different filaments or staples joined
together at the several stages in the yarn manufacturing process,i.e. spinning, drawing,
twisting,etc. Some of these examples are shown schematically in Figure 1-4.
References
Dr.Teruo ISHIDA, An Introduction to Textile Technology, Japan, December 1990