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TRAVELS
AifD

DISCOVEEIES IN THE LEVANT.

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TRAVELS & DISCOVEEIES

IN THE

LEVANT

BY

C. T.

NEWTON,

M.A.

CEEPEK OP TUE GEELK AKD EOilAK ANTIQUITIES,

BEIIIBH MUSEUM.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

IN

G,

TWO VOLUMES. VOL.

DAY & SON, LIMITED,

GATE STREET, LONDON,
1865.

[All Eijhts reneroed.^

IL

W.O.

7HE6ETTYCENIE8

mm.i

CONTENTS.
LjETTExx.

XXX.

PAGE

Visit to Kalloni
Monasteries there Byzantine Paintings Ancient Custom

Eecruiting for Land Transport Corps

of

sticking

Kamarisj

Coins

Eunea
Pictures Inscription
Character of the Plain at Kalloni...
at

on.

at Dapliia

XXXI.
Visit to Ayasso and Plumari
Offerings in the

publico

qiuty

Similar

Pmwjjjris at Aya-sso

Church there

Theu- conversion

Votive
pro bono

application of Sacred Treasiu'es in Ajiti-

Mii'acvilous

Cures of the Sick attributed to the

Village PlumariCostume of the

WomenArchLLshop Mytilene His accoimt Ancient
near Phimari
Macedonia
Customs
Chiirch of Agios Phokas Promontory BrLsa Hot
Springs
Medifeval Fortress near Misagro
Hiera Re
Ancient Customs observed
mains of Ancient City of that Name Antimony mine
Panagia of Ayasso

of

of

of

Inscription at Plagia,

in

at Basilica

there

District of

...

XXXII.

Visit of Colonels Shelley and O'Reilly

Their Account of the Present State of Asia Minor
Unedited Coins of Methymna and Eresos Last Exploit
Exof the Smyi-na Robbers Vigorous Measures

Taking of Sebastopol

for then-

tirpation taken

15

by Colonel Storks

XXXIII.
Visit to Constantinople

The Bospliorus

Illustration of a

Metaphor in Ai-istophanes, taken from the tunny-fishers

Rare Archaic Coin of
Collection of Coins of Baron Tecco

Vm

CONTENTS.

Excavation round Base the Bronze

Monument
Serpent
Hippodrome- History
on
Eesults of the Excavation Discovery of
of
the Folds of the Serpent
Serpent
Monument with
Identity
Comthe
Character
dedicated by the Greeks
Delphi
a Fountain diuing
Conversion of the
the HippoExcavations
the Byzantine Empne
Theodosius
drome
round Base of Obelisk
Constantinople, not
Destruction of Ancient Monuments
the work of the
Tradition respecting
Macedonia

of

in tlie

PAQB.

of

tlie

tlie

Inscription

Historical Interest

Inscription

this

the

of this

of

at

Serjjent into

position

ia

Fiu-ther

of

Beliefs

at

TiU'ks

exclusively

the Palladium said to have been placed under the Burnt

Column

21

XXXIV.
in the Medusa Ehodes Marmarice Ruins of
Mughla Djova, the AnAncient Acropolis Journey
cient Bai'gasa Hellenic Eemaiiis Mughla The AcroProbably the of the Ancient TarmianiReturn
to Rhodes Calymnos Budiiun Second Jom-ney to
Mughla Guverj UikMylasa Eski Hissar LaginaRemains of Temple of Hekate Frieze Inscriptions BarBudrum
gyUaReturn

Ci-uise

to

polis

site

to

39

XXXV.
Castle at

Kislalik

Budrum Plan of
Various Modes

Vases, Coins, and other Antiquities

Exjiedition to

Budnim

Tombs
Discoveiy

the Fortifications
of Interment

Retm-n

for the purpose of

to

at

of

England

Removing the
58

Lions from the Castle

XXXVI.

Excavation in Field of
probable
of Temple of Demeter Excavation of Agia
Marina, probably the
of a GjTnnasiiun Earthquake

Arrival of the Gorgon at

Mehemet Chiaoux

Budrum

Discovery

of Terra-cotta Figures on

site

site

and Explosion at Rhodes

08

Discovery of

Roman

CONTENTS.

IX

XXXVII.

PAGE

Mosaic Pavements in Field of Hadji

Subjects of these MosaicsStatue found under

Bronze Lamp found in "WeU Manner of taking

Captan
tliem

up the Mosaics

75

XXXVIII.
Discovery of the Site of the Mausoleum
its

Con-espondence of
Progress of

Position with the Statement of Vitlu^'ius

the Excavations

Digging

Plan

in obtaining

Difficulties

the Right of

Mausoleum

of the Basement of the

Dis-

coveiy of Torso of Equestrian Figure, Slabs of Frieze,

and other scidjjtures Staircase Alahciston with name of

Xerxes Removal of Lions from the Castle

84

XXXIX.
105

Turkish Wrestlers

XL.
Further Excavations on Site of Mausoleum
Discovery of Steps of Pyi-amid

Departm-e of the Gorgon

from the Mausoleum

Imam's Field

Colossal Horse

Description

Statues

of the Sculptures

Statue of Mausolus Female Figure

Group Wall of Peribolos
Architectural
Marbles The Fteron The Pp-amid- The Basement
Guichard's Narrative of the Destruction of the Mausoleum
by the Knights The Frieze of the Order Other Friezes
Remains of Colour on these Marbles Equestrian Groufj

Chariot

Lions

108

XLI.

Discovery of Eastern Peribolos Wall

Excavation on Site of
Temple of Mars Description of Halicamassus by Vitravius
compared with remains in situ The Agora The Palace
of Mausolus
His Arsenal Temple of Venus and Mercuiy

Fortress

of Salmacis

Inscription

relating to People of

Gymnasium of Apollo and Ptolemy Walls of

Halicamassus Ancient Cemeteries Arrival of Mr. R. P.

SalmaCLS

Pullan

137

CONTENTS.
XLII.

The

p^oj.

Tlic Sacred
Way The Avenue of Ai-chaic Seated Statues Inscription

Visit

to Branchiclse

Temple of Apollo

on Statue of Chares, ruler of Teichioussa This ligiu-e the

example of a Greek Iconic Statue These Statues

earliest

proljably the

work of ArtLsts who had

studied in Egypt

Connection of Egyi^t with Asia Minor in the reigns of Psam-

Lion and SphinxDedication on

Date of these Figures
Temple of Apollo Dedications made
by Seleukos
and other Monarchs Fate of the Sacred
Gens
Branchidse Probable Date of the BuUding
of the Temple
Hieron Return of the Supply to

metichos

I.

and Amasis

Back of Lion
tions

ProbaLle

relating

Inscrip-

to

II.

called

Its

Budrum

147

XLIIL
Establishment at Cnidus

Mehemet

Ali, the

Aga

of Datscha 160

XLIV.

TriopionHarboiirs
Acropolis Temples on the Continent Excavation in
lower Theatre Temenos of Demeter and other Infernal
Deities Discovery of Statuette of Persephone Inscription
Demeter and
the Dedication of a Temple
Persejihone Seated Statue of Demeter Leaden Tablets
ChamberMarble Pigs
inscribed with Birce
Votive Breasts Glass
Lamps Female Statue,
perhaps Demeter Achfea Base inscribed with Dedication
Pluto and other Infernal Deities General Summaiy of
the Results of
Excavation Probable Date of the
Temple The Sculptures may be of the School of Praxiteles
a Temple
Physical
of the
dedicated
the Infernal Deities Myth of Demeter and

Description of the

Site of Cnidus

to

relating to

Elliptical

Fictile

to

this

Site suitable for

Peculiarities

to

Persephone

1G7

Triopia Sacra

XLV.
Final Excavations on Site of Mausoleum

Wall Lower

Soil

Ancient Tombs
of

the

within the

Reasons

Mausoleum was

for

Eastern Periholos
Discovery of

Feriholos

believing that

originally

the

Site

a Quarry in which

CONTENTS.

Geological

Interments took place

XI
PAGE

Character of the Hill

on the Base of which the Mausoleum stood

Drainage

An

Galleries

for

English Sailor's Account of the Diggings

Depai'tiue from Budiiim

200

XLVI.
Discovery of Colossal Lion near Cuidus

which he had
air

follen

Grand Effect of

Difficulties in its

Doric Toml)

this

Lion

in the

from
open

Embarkation

214

XLVII.
Description of the Doric

Tomb

Chamber

witliin

Vault-

it

ing similar to that of the Ti-easmy of Minyas, as described

by Pausanias

The Cnidian Monument may commemorate

Conon The Lion of Cha^roneia

in the Transmission of Money

the Naval Victory of

Visit fi-om Pii'ates
in the

Difficulty

Levant

221

XLVIII.
Second Visit to Branchidse
the

Removal

Way Excavations

Sacred

Archaic Dedication
of the Nicariotes

Ijy

of the Statues fi'om

on the

WayTombs

Anecdote
Departure of Supjjly

Sons of Anaximander

Eeturn

to

Cuidus

231

XLIX.

Temple of Venus Reasons for not admitting Leake's Site for

Inscription to Ai-tcmidoi-os
His son
the Aphrodisium
Theopompos Discovery of supposed Gymnasium Inscription relating to Hermes
to Artemis lakynthotroplios
Doric Stoa Inscription with name of Theopompos Dis
Dedication to
covery of Odeum
of Temple of Muses
Muses ; to Apollo Pythios ; to Athene Nikephoros and
23G
Hestia Boulaia Probable Site of the Demiourgion

Triopion Promontory

Sarcophagi

Discovery of Roman Tomb

Statue

Inscriptions relating to the Senate of Cnidus

Changes in the Constitution of

this

Aristotle- -The Demiourgos of Cuidus

Body mentioned by
246

XU

CONTENTS.

LI.

Eastern Necropolis
Inscription

Ancient
to

relating

cient Ckristian Cliiu-cli

Road

TombsDiscovery

Temenos of Antigonos

tlie

Inscriptions

in

Monuments by the

Destruction of Pagan

tlie

of

An-

Pavement

early Cluistians

Excavation in large sepulcliral Peribolos

Recall

of the

Expedition

25

LII.

Difficulty of obtaining Money, from

non-anival of Coquette Exciu'sions in the Doric Peninsula

Return of

Lieut.

Smith

Hellenic Wall near YasikbiAncient Bridge

of
Chesmakoi Fortress of Koumya Kalessi Inscription at
Dum Galli Remaius of Acanthus Scenery the Doric
Peninsula Chai-acter of the Turkish Peasantry Cm-ious
east

in

Tradition of a Greek

Myth

257

LIII.
Visit of

H.R.H. Prince Alfred

Eiu-yalus

to Cnidus

Discoveries on the Site of Kamii-os

and

and Budrum in the

Retui-n of the Supply Dejiarture

Biliotti

Arrival

at

Malta

by

for

Messi-s.

Malta

Salzmann

264

OF PLATES.

LIS.T

Feontispiece.

Map of

Caria.
To fan Page

Plate.

1.

Plan of Halicamassus (Binlrum)

59

2.

Plan of Site of Mausoleum

93

3.

Sections of ditto

94

4.

Fragment from

group of mounted Persian Warrior.

Photographed by F. Bedford, from a Drawing

Mrs. C. T.
6.

by-

Newton

Amazon fiom

96

Frieze of Mausoleum, from a Photogi-aph

by B. Spackman

6.

Head

7.

Female head,
B.

8.

of Mausolus, from a Photograph by B.

9.

Mausoleum,

Photograph

111

by
112

Photographed by F. Bedford,

Statue of Mausolus.

Drawmg by

Mrs. C. T.

liy

Newton

114

Photogi'aphed by F. Bedford,

Mausolus, side view.

from a Drawing
10.

from

Spackman

Spackman

from a
1

9G

Mrs. C. T.

Newton

Female Figure found under Pyramid

steps,

114

Mausoleum.

Photogi'aphed by F.
Mi-s. C. T.

11. Colossal

Bedford, from a Di-awing by

Newton

Horse

from

IIG
Chariot

group,

Mausoleimi.

Photogi-aphed by F. Bedford, fiom a Drawing

Mrs. C. T.

Newton

liy

118

LIST OF PLATES.

XIV

To face Page

Tlate.

Details of the Order,

12.

Maiisolewm

123

13.1

'

Bedford, from a Dra-wiag by Mrs. C. T. Newton

F.

Photogi-aphed by

Frieze of the Order, Mausoleum.

'

128
130

15.J
16.

Figui-e from Frieze representing Chariot-race,

Photographed by F. Bedfobd, from a Drawing

leiun.

by

Mi-s. C. T.

17. Lion's

Newton

Head, Mausoleum.

Budrum.

Harbour and

132

'

Photographed by F. Bed-

Newton

ford, from a Drawing by Mrs. C. T.

18.

Mauso-

Castle.

Aquatint by

136

W.

J.

Alais, from a Photograph by B. Spaceman

19.

View

of

Theatre.

Budrum taken from

Aquatint by

W.

the

hill

J. Alais,

140

above the

from a Photo-

graph by B. Spackman

140

20.

Plan and View of Sacred Way, Branchidje

149

21.

PlanofCnidus

168

22.

Plan of Temenos of Demeter, Cnidus

192

23.

Lion Tomb, Cnidus

223

LIST OF WOODCUTS.
PAOP,
1.

Silver Coiii of

2.

Idem

Methymna

19

of Eresos

19

3-5. Three Silver Macedonian Dodekadi-achms

Lamp

6.

Bronze

7.

Small Conical object found

8.

View

9.

Bronze Dowel from Great Stone,

10.

of

Stall'

78
79

iSi'f?.

and Flanking Wall, Mausoleum

97

98

ibid.

The same, End Vie-w

11, 12.

Head

98

of Colossal Horse, Bi-onze Bridle

13. Chariot-wheel,
14.

24

found in Well, Halicamassns

Ill

Mausoleum

118

Bronze Cramp from Pyi'amid Step

121

15-18. Ornaments of Chairs of Statues from Sacred

Branchidfe
19.

Way,
1

50-51

Plan of Entrance to Theatre, Cnidus

20, 21. Glass Phials from

22, 23.

Temenos

173

of Demeter, ibid.

Lamps, identideni

182-83

184-85

24. Stone Spout, identidem

25.

191

Ivory Elephant fi-om Mausoleum

26. 27.

Vase

in

form

of

Female

Mausoleum

201

Head,

Iron

Dagger,

204

28.

Bronze Grating, Mausoleum

207

29.

Lehythos from Lion Tomb, Cnidus

225

ERRATUM.
Page

81, line 21, for "glaze" read "glue."

TRAVELS
AND

DISCOVERIES IN THE LEVANT.

LETTER XXX.
;Mytilene, July 20, 1855.

mj

Since

return

mucli occupied

Avitli

from Calymnos I have

lieen

enrolling recruits for the

Land

Transport Corps, and shipping them

Dardanelles, where they remain at

for

the

deput

till

off

the

As

they are organized for service in the Crimea.

have to give them each 1 bounty money on their

enlisting,

and as they are very ready

never happy

motley

am

such a

vagabonds as are now collected

at the

till

lot of

to desert, I

How

they are shipped

off.

Dardanelles will ever be kept together and drilled

into shape is very difficult to imagine.

nians,

who have

enlisted

in

The Alba-

great numl)ers,

are

already beginning to give a good deal of trouble.

About 200 of them deserted the other day, and

nearly succeeded in sacking the hospital at Eenkoi.
I

went

last

Kalloni, at the

week to the group of villages called

head of the gulf of the same name,

which I have already noticed in the account of

visit to

VOL.

Ereso
II.

(I.

pp. 101-2).
B

my

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

This district forms

one of the three cazas or

provinces into which the Turks have divided Mytilene,

and

is

governed hj a Mudir, assisted by a

Mejhs and Cadi.

In the plain of Kalloni are seven villages lying
close

together,

Daphia,

Keramia,

Papiana,

Sumaria, Achyi'ona, Ai-genna, and Agios Cosmas,

The name of Kalloni is given to

The most important of them
the whole group.
is AchjTona, where the Ai'chbishop of Methymna
TzumaU.'

or

resides in a large imcomfortable house, with little

we should
The diocese

of the dignity which

associate with

episcopal dwelUng.

of

Methymna

tends over the northern part of the island.

an
ex-

The

revenues of the see amount to about 1,300 a year,

or one-half that of the see of Mytilene.

The present Archbishop

his

class,

is

a good specimen of

and received us very hospitably.

On

riding into his courtyard, I foimd his secretary, a

good-looking young monk, walking up and down,

reading a French translation of Locke, of whose
philosophy he seemed to have a clearer idea than
could

have

been

anticipated,

considering

the

imcivihzed society in which he dwells.

At the

distance of about a mile and a half from

Achyrona are two monasteries, one for monks, the

other for nuns, founded by a certain St. Ignatius,
about A.D. 1500. That for monks, called "the
Monastery of the Meadow,"

toZ

T^sifxiJavos,

and dedi-

cated to St. Michael, is pleasantly situated in a

valley suiTOunded

by

hills.

It is

little

an irregular stone

building running round a courtyard.

The chambers

IN THE LEVANT.

of the monks are on an upper story, to

steps give access, as in a

gate

is

wliicli

stone

Over the entrance

inji'go.

a fresco representing St. Michaeh

Formerly

monks liere, l^nt now not

number. They are governed

there were a hundred and iifty

above one third of that

by an Hegoumenos or Prior, of very unprepossessing

and du'ty aspect. At 11 a.m., when I first called on
him, he was

and there was about the

in bed,

still

whole monastery a look of squalid sloth which

gusted

MSS.

me much.

here,

which

There
I

is

the Greek Church.

a small collection of

had only time to glance

books which I opened were

chiefl}^

I noticed a 4to

MS. on

'

the

much wormed and

first

fom^ books

Physics.

MS.

On
New Testament

of the

ture of St. Mark,

He

visit,

much

thought that the

injured, but in a bold style.

age of this MS.

I found

On

18th century.

might be

cross-examining the

him very

little

disposed to

MSS.

monastery contains

some

by monks of Mount Athos

in the

of

frescoes executed

of the

Colnaghi noticed a

sive information about the collection of

The church

fifth

illuminated with a minia-

the 10th or lltli century.

Hegoumenos,

dxpi-

It contains

and part of the

a previous

The

paper, of

(purrix^

bad condition.

in

at.

old services of

the 15th century, entitled ApKrroTsMvs

atrtg,

dis-

the

Between the nave and the chancel

is

a richly-carved wooden screen, the work of native

artists

and of the same period as the

fi^escoes.

The nunnery at Kalloni is a penitentiary, to which

ladies who have led naughty lives are banished from
Mytilene.

All the specimens of the sex, however,

who were

exhibited to

me
B 2

here were so very old,

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

4
Ugly,

and repulsive, that

anything wi'ong,

it

if

tliey

had

evei'

done

must have been a very long time

They were beguiling the long summer hours

with knitting and spinning, by which they maintain
They do not live in common; each
themselves.
mm has her own chamber and a Httle garden, which

ago.

she cultivates herself.

Attached to the monastery is a small church elaborately decorated inside with pictm'es of the Panagia

and various

saints, in

which the old Byzantine

of painting has been handed

fidelity

style

down with Chinese

from the time of Cimabue.

In the porch

some mural paintings with subjects fi'om the

Old Testament. Here is also represented the trial

are

of the celebrated heretic Arius before the emperor

Constantiue at the council of Nic^a.

In the chm*ch

and

are several scenes from the hfe of the Virgin,

representations of the different parables in the

Testament.

Among

New

these I particularly noticed the

Broad and Narrow Gate, in which a

lady dressed in red and green has given her hand
to a fantastic devil, and is tripping down the broad
while a
path at the head of a goodly company
picture of the

number

of

monks

are creeping with infinite difficulty

through the low entrance of a mediteval

I observed that a picture of the

fortress.

Panagia had a

gold Turkish coin stuck like a beauty-spot on the

hung a little silver hand

I inquired
names attached to it.
what aU these things meant, and was told that
the coins and the hand were votive offerings
made by sick people, and the writing was a list of
cheek, and from the chaui

with a

list

of

THE LEVANT.

IN

the names of invalids

ciu'ecl

by

whose

saint to

tlie

was attached. This custom illusan expression in a Greek mscription, which

picture the paper

trates

contains a

list

of offerings, anathemata, in the temple

of Amphiaraos, in Boeotia, and gives direction for

the repair of such of them as required

these

offerings

mentioned

are

from which coins had

Among

it."

ornaments

silver

These coins had

fallen off.

probably been attached to votive objects, in the

same way as they are

day at Kalloni.

to this

About half an hour from Achyrona is a bridge

called Ennea Kamaris, where is a Byzantine mscripIn

tion referring to the building of the bridge.^

neighbouring

the

inscription

how one

of

village

Daphia

found an

on a step outside a mosque, recording-

Claudius Lucianus, of Alabanda, dedicated

a hound to the Artemis of Thermaj.*

at

Achyrona

noticed

the

In a garden

capital

of

large

Corinthian column.

The
called

plain at the

Campo,

part of

it

is

head of the Gulf of Kalloni, now

formed by

alluvial deposit,

to the east of the

group of the

and the

villages is

evidently of recent formation, as will be seen

by

reference to the Admiralty chart, where a lagune

marked.

Small rocky eminences rise

of this

monotonous

raised

causeway.

which

level,

This

Methymna mentioned by
city of

plain

of

for the

country

rocky and

barren.

Strabo,
is

out

traversed by a

must be that

immediately round Molivo

The

is

like islands

is

Nape, situated, according to the same

author, in this plain, probably occupied the site of

one of the small rocky eminences which overlook

it.

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

XXXI.
Mytilene, Aiujust 21, 1855.

Last week, having occasion to go to Plumari, on

the southern coast, I took the opportunity of ex-

some of the district lying between the gulfs

of Olivieri and Kalloni.
Lly first halting-place was
Ayasso, where we arrived in the middle of a great
ploring

or Pancgijris, celebrated there every year

festival,

month. It was formerly frequented by an

immense concom'se of people from the neighbouring
islands and continent
but the attendance has much
in this

diminished of late years.

great sale of manufactm'ed goods takes place at

this festival

During

its

so that

it

serves the purpose of a

duration, the church

and the women are allowed

"Wlien I entered
gyris,

it

is

faii".

used as an inn,

to sleep there at night.

on the second day of the Pane'

a miiltitude of both sexes were lying about on

Towards the
the Ai^chbishop arrives, and

the pavement eating and drinking.

of the festival

close

drives

which

out this profamim valgus from the church,

is

then duly purified.

At Rhodes,

already mentioned in previous letters,

accommodation

is

I. p.

suitable

provided for the reception of the

visitors at the feasts held at

(See

as I have

more

Zambika and Kremasto.

184)

The pilgrims who thus profane the church of Our

Lady of Ayasso, have, however, made some atonement by the value of their votive offerings at her

IN

they amoimt to a large sum,

verted into money.

their emolument,

pubhc work
It

These offerings are allowed to accumiilate

shrine.
till

THE LEVANT.

is

by

The

when they

are con-

priests receive a portion as

and the

rest

is

for the benefit of the

expended

in

some

commimity.

this discreet application of sacred things

to secular purposes that the \'illage of

Ayasso has

been supplied with an excellent aqueduct.

lai'ge

Morea has been built from similar resources.

Such a mode of appropriating the treasm^es
which piety had invested was not unknown to the
school at

ancient Greeks

but they regarded such resources

as only to be used in cases of extreme emergency,

when

the safety of the state required

In the

it.

Peloponnesian war, Pericles told the Athenians that

the ornaments of the Chryselephantine

of

statue

Pallas Athene, weighing forty talents of pure gold,

were so attached as to be removable,

if

it

were

necessary, and that the votive objects, deposits,

and

sacred plate in the temples of Athens amounted to

more than

among

five

hundi-ed talents.

to in case of need,

the

These he reckons

the resources of the state, only to be resorted

first

and

if

so used, to be replaced on

return of prosperity.

In a later age, when religious feeling was much

weakened among the Greeks, Dionysios the Elder,
of

Syracuse, had no

stripped

the

such pious scruples.

gods of their

golden mantles

He
and

wreaths, substituting ordinary ones, such as mortals

wear

he took the gold cups out of the very hands

of the statues, and having persuaded the

women

of

Syracuse to propitiate Demeter by dedicating to her

TEAYELS AND DISCOVEEIES

8
all

their jewels, lie took the liberty of

borrowing

these offerings fi'om the goddess immediately after-

wards.

These piLferiugs were

audacious sacrilege of

Delphi.

It

surpassed by the

vast

treasures

the ancients regarded their temples

deposit, the ruler

who

a few

stored

up

though

that,

clear, therefore,

is

who

the Phociaus,

years later sacked the

at

far

banks of

as

appropriated these offeiings

to state uses without due cause

was sure

the charge of sacrilege.

as if the

England were to invest

It

was

to incur

Bank

of

their sacred metallic reseiwe

in ordinary commercial speculations.

The Panagia of Ayasso

rence as

possessing the

curing the sick or insane,

church and

is

held iu special reve-

power of mii'acidously

who

are brought to the

to pass the Saturday night there,

left

the result of which

is

a perfect cure on the Sunday

morning.
This

custom

syxol[xrja-is,

seems

I.

rehc

the

of

ancient

or incubatio, which I have described in a

former letter in
(See

p.

my

of the finest

account of the Amphiaraion.

The church at Ayasso is one

MytUene; two rows of seven

30.)
in

columns divide the interior into a nave and two

aisles.

The

altar-screen

is

of polished grey marble

in the panels are portraits of the

Panagia and other

saints.

From Ayasso

I rode along the base of

Olympus through
country,

Mount

picturesque

and

beautiful

fuU of rushing torrents

and

park-hke

glades, shaded

by immense chestnut-trees, whose

ample verdure shut out the

fierce rays of

an August

IN THE LEVANT.

The lower ravines

sun.

wei'e fringed with a rich

hixuriant growth of pear aud othei' fruit-trees

the

atmosphere was deliciously cool and bracing,

like

that of the lower levels of the island in November.

As

saw the coast of Asia

away towards Smyi-na and
Scio, and behind me a most pictm^esque background,
broken into endless ravines by the intersecting spurs
of Mount Olympus.
As we descended towards
I crossed a high ridge, I

Minor stretching

far

Plumari, the lich forest timber gradually dwindled

aAvay into a few scanty pines scattered over a ^vild

and barren

The
called
cliff

district.

village, or small

Potamo,

by the

is

town, of Plumari, formerly

little

about four thousand inhabitants,

and corn.

oil

and

river.

It contains

who

trade in olive

This village has an aspect of

activity about

it

The inhabitants are a

their

on a bold

picturesqu.ely situated

mouth of a

which

fine race

is
;

stir

rare in Mytilene.

but notwithstanding

healthy appearance, leprosy,

Xw/Sa,

is

very

The dress of the women is very

They wear bright scarlet trousers,

prevalent here.
pictm'esque.

and jackets embroidered with gold.

was hospitably entertained here by the Archbishop of Mytilene, who is now making his annual
I

progress through the island to collect his dues.

has lived

much

in

He

me some
there, who

Macedonia, and told

curious particulars about the peasantry

have retained many ancient customs which have

nearly disappeared in the Archipelago.

marriao-e
o in

Macedonia

is

in this wise.

On

the

wedding morning, the bride proceeds on horseback

10

TBAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

from her home to the bridegroom's house,

after

taking leave of her parents, on which occasion a

being

loaf is cut in half, one portion

old

home,

quitting

her

farewell

of

own

she

village,

the

all

with

taken

other

the

has "vvTonged any of them.

solemn

takes

her

Before

her.

and young,

inhabitants, old

and asking

kissing their hands

left in

their pardon, if she

She then

on

sets out

hor journey, conducted by her brothers, or nearest

whom

of kin, one of

hand on her
crossed to

bridle,

avert

walks on either

side,

with his

and holding out two daggers

all

Wlien she

influences.

evil

arrives at the bridegroom's house, he entreats her

to dismount,

an invitation which she dechnes by

shaking her head, in token that she has arrived

portionless and

He
lady

then
still

offers

a lamb

shakes her head

struck.

is

courtyard,

round a

spirits,

till

is

rite in

round a blazing
is at

the

a satisfactory

taken into the

to purify her from

a ceremony which recalls the ancient

the bride

and so they go on with

Then the bride

three times

AmpMclromia, a
carried

lamb

on horseback, and her horse led

still

fire

for a dowry.

then, a second

a succession of bids and refusals

bargain

him

that she looks to

evil

rite

of

which new-born infants were

After this ceremony,

altar.

length lifted fi'om the saddle either

by the father-in-law or the bridesman and carried

ujistairs

in the

state-room, where

she

on the divan in the most honourable

is

placed

place.

In

passing into the house her feet are never allowed to

touch the ground, for

fear,

probably, of such an

ominous casualty as stumbling.

LEVAjST.

11

I next inquired about funerals,

and was told that

IN

THE

one day when the body of a young

girl

was lying

in

a church waiting to be interred, the Archbishop ob-

woman slipping a quince into the bosom of

the corpse. On questioning her, she confessed that she
served a

had secreted this offering in the hopes that the dead

girl might convey it to her owu son, who had died
about three weeks before.
The Archbishop was
greatly scandalized

and

poor woman that

might cause her own

telling the

such superstitious practices

death, gave the quince to a child,

who

ate

it

with

happy unconsciousness that he was robbing the

Manes of their due.
At every funeral in Macedonia a dole of food, mne,
and rakee is distributed to the poor. The house of
mourning is not swept out till three days after the
burial the broom used for this purpose is always
;

destroyed. Forty days after the funeral, a lyke wake,

rpaTTs^a, takes place at the

tomb

itself,

the relations and friends are invited.

to

The

which
plates

all

and

dishes used in this banquet are always broken on

the tomb and

left there,

being considered unfit for

other uses.

On

the opening of barrows and graves

heathen period

in Germanj^,

it

of the

has been noted that

great quantities of potsherds are constantly found

outside the

tomb

itself.

These

are, doubtless, the

fi'agments of the crockery used in the funeral feast

and

in like

I frequently

manner,

in

my

diggings at Calymnos,

found cups or lamps in the

to Hellenic graves."^

When

soil

close

a Greek archbishop

is

12

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

biiried in his

own

seated, with a

lamp

I could

diocese,

lie is

placed in the grave

biu'nuig.

hear of no antiquities at Potamo

but at

the distance of about an houi' from this place

is

vUlage called Plagia, where I was shown a Greek

excavated near a church called Hypo-

inscription,

This

panti.

a dedication in elegiac verse of a

is

statue of Hermes, to be placed in a vineyard.

dedicator

At

one Bacchon.

is

was shown a sepulchral

The

the same chm'ch I

tablet

representing

two

draped figures joining hands, inscribed with the

name

of Antiochos, and another slab

rehef a figure

sculptured in

of

on which

is

Artemis-Hekate

running with a torch in each hand, and at her side

a hound.

I was told that about ten years ago there

were found near

this

chm'ch about 300

which, from the description, I

silver coins,

should imagine to

have been Roman.

To the west
is

of Pkunari

is

Cape Vurkos, where

a ruined church, Agios Phokas, in the walls of

which are large fi'agments of marble and part of a

Foundations, probably, of a Genoese

fluted coliunn.

tower
still

and the

be traced.

into the sea,

concrete.

outline of an ancient harbour

mole of squared stone juts out

and there are foundations

A little

may

to the

N.E. of

river flows into the sea, near the

this

built with

cape a

mouth

salt

of which

are the ruins of a church dedicated to St. Katharine,

which

contains

few insignificant

fragments of

ancient architecture.

In a

field

nearer the

little

to the south of this chm'ch,

mouth of the

river,

and

arc squared blocks

THE LEVANT.

IN

and fragments of ancient red

13

Between

tile.

this

field

and the church are foundations of walls

A\ith

mortar, but which do not appear to be antique.

To

the north of Cape Vurkos

built

the promontory

is

called Brisa by Stephanus Byzantius, on which was

a celebrated temple of Bacchus;" and there

same name

village of the

is

neighbourhood,

in the

near the places mai'ked Gripa and Polichniti in

At

the Admiralty chart.

are

hot

ferrugineous

were

not for a spring

it

which

close by,

which

springs,

district,

mark

This great heat would render

Reaumm".
useless

Basilica, in this

into

falls

heat of the mineral water

of

same

the

80''

them

cold Avater
basin.

The

thus reduced to 32

is

Reaumur.

From Plumari
distance

is

I returned

three hours

home by

Skopelo.

The

the road winds picturesquely

along the sides of deep ravines covered with pines.

Close to the village of Skopelo

is

that of Misagro,

at the distance of half an hour from

which are the

ruins of an ancient media3val fortress, on a hill called,

as usual, Palaio Kastro.

the crest of the

hill

The

walls which run round

are built of rubble, in which I

could not discover any ancient squared blocks.

hill

on which

this castle stands is of

The

grey marble,

which has been curiously divided into lozenge-shaped

blocks caused by natural fissures.

At Misagro
Ij-aaapia,

saw a boy bringing round the

or cakes given as dole by the relations after a
I

The name of this dole is evidently due to the

same euphemism which gave to the dead the name
01 ixaxapsg
and o* ixaxaftTui, "the blessed." The
death.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVBBIES

14
latter

word

is still in

use

among

cakes are circular in form, like the

fiineral

chral rehefs,

They

as represented in

banquet,

and have a

little

These

the Greeks.

irT^axoZg in the

ancient

sweetmeat on

sepulthem.'^

are quartered and distributed to people in the

streets

on the day of the death and on the next

anniversary.

manner on the

are given in like

and again

days after death,

months

round comfits,

Little

successively.^

at Misagro, the priests

called l-olhjlm,

and 40th

3rd, 9th,

and

after three

six

While I was in the church

went round

to collect their

Those who were too poor to contribute paras

gave beans, the xua/Ao< which in ancient Athens were
used as lots in the election of pubhc officers.
dues.

The

di'ess of

the

women

at

Misagro

very pic-

is

turesque, with red trousers as at Plumari.

two young

swinging in a swing,

girls

pended from the branch of a large

saw

Icounia, sus-

plane-tree, while

their companions stood by singing a melancholy

me

ditty.

The

Alcopa,

by which the maidens of Athens commemo-

sight

reminded

of the festival called

mournM

rated the tragic end of Erigone, chanting

songs as they swung, the pastime

allusion to the

itself

manner of her death .^

being an

It is not,

however, probable that any tradition of the Attic

festival should

Misagro

is

have survived

in Mytilene.

one of a group of seven villages lying

close together,

and forming one

The

this

city

having

of

perished

district, called

name mentioned by
before

his

stood here, and has given

time,'"

its

Near Plakado, one of the seven

name

Hiera.

Pliny,

must

as

have

to the gulf.

villages, are

some

IN

THE LEVANT.

15

richly sculptured arcliitectural fraguieuts in

\Yliite

and following the course of the

stream by which this tank is supjjlied, I found more

marble at a tank

of the same fraofments in the sides of the watercourse.

The tank

is

called

Manna.

was

told

here by the peasants there were formerly extensive

ruins

here,

Mytilene was
mine,

now

ployed

liy

from
built.

wliich

the

great

Near Misagro

is

mosque

at

an antimony

being worked by a French engineer, emthe owner of the mine, a rich Turk."

XXXII.
Mytilene, September 20, 1855.

The news of the

taking of Sebastopol was a source

of great satisfaction to the small European colony

here

but our rejoicing was not in harmony with

the general sentiments of theMytUeniotes.

A salute

of 105 guns was fired fi'om the castle, but the Pasha
declined to illuminate the town, being afi-aid of pro-

voking a counter-demonstration from the Greeks.

Their mortification was so great at the defeat of the
Russians, that they discontinued their horrible nasal

songs for three days, and on the morning when the

news came, the Archbishop descended from his

throne in the metropolitan church, and sat in the
midst of his assembled flock in token of the general

mourning and self-abasement which beseemed them

on such an occasion. They are beginning to smother
their rage

now, and to resume their old fawning

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

16
ways.
a

Tliey no longer call

name invented

war

since the

pigs Anglo-Galli,

tlieir

to sliow tlieir scorn

now condescend

of the allied powers, and they

to

salute the French and English consuls in the streets,

an honour of which

for

some months they had

me

in April

thought us unworthy.
Since Colnaghi

life

here has

dull

having been obliged to stay

my

in

my office

Land Transport

the enlistment of

speak

my

and monotonous. I have hardly

of Mytilene all the summer,
town
out of the

been singularly
stirred

left

native language,

attending to

recruits.

I have

I never

no amusement

of any kind except the change from one book to

another, which after a while becomes like the turning
of a sick

man

in his deeply indented bed.

weary of Greeks and

lies

and

am

petitions for the re-

covery of small debts alleged to be due to lonians.

My

lesson in Turkish

my

were a dose of castor

gust,

gorge rises at him as

oil.

He

heedeth not

my

but proceeds to din into

weary jargon of words which have as

for

me

droning Hoja comes every morning to give

me.

my

dis-

same
yet no meaning

months, I can just manage, when I get a

my own name

of intricate groups of characters

he

ears the

After studying Turkish writing for

the Pasha, to unravel

if

many

letter

from

out of a knot

In the evening I generally take

my

book and

sit

in a cave on the shore, enjoying the distant vieAv of

Asia Minor and the refreshing plash of the wave.

This cavern

is

the only place where I can escape

from the many discordant sounds which rend the

Eastern

air

horrible

Greek songs (was there ever

IN THE LEVANT.

17

yet a people so destitute of feeling for music

brawling termagants railing at

under

street

my window

squalid children

the howlings of homeless dogs, a

and the screams

of half-starved cats, fierce and rapacious

Smyrna brigands.
The other day I detected my servant

He had opened

act of robbing mc.

as the

in the very

a secret drawer

and had not had time to replace the spring,

in a desk,

Though

suddenly entered.

the yells of neglected

gaunt band of nomad scavengers

when

?)

eacli otlicr in the

completely lost his presence of mind.

Greek,

he

I have not

seen so livid and hideous a complexion since the day

when Timoleon

Pericles Vlasto

coins fi'om the British

me

Smyrna with an

fi'om

most

had

me

thanking

me

engaging
for

my

was detected

Museum.

This

stealine:

man came

to

He

excellent character.

and

was always
goodness to him, and telling
manners,

was better than a father to him. I have

little doubt that he would have cut my throat with
the same pleasant smile on his face.
People in England wonder how it is that, after a
long residence in the East, Europeans become so
suspicioiis, jealous, and generally cantankerous
but
that I

Enghshman

they forget that an

doomed

to pass his

may be

described

life

in the

Levant

is

surrounded by people who

by the

ever-recurring

phrase

applied by Darius to his enemies in the Behistun

inscription,

"And

breathe in Turkey
I

he was a
is

VOL.

II.

The very

impregnated with

had written thus

at the door of

liar."

far,

air

we

lies.

when, on a sudden, I saw

my courtyard the apparition of two very

c

TRAVELS AND DTSCOVEEIBS

18

They spoke that mother tongue

British officers.

tall

so welcome to

my

ears after long disuse

com-

their

plexions were biu-nt to a rich brick-red, their beards

long and unkempt, their clothes worn and torn by

many

a hard day's ride;

there

was nothing

smai't

about them but their long clanking swords and the

still

untarnished gold lace on their red foraging caps.

I guessed at once

whence they came, and,

old

Homeric fashion of

my

house without knowing their names.

They had been

all

for General Beatson's

hospitality, invited

after the

them

into

over Asia Minor recruiting

Irregular Turkish

made

Starting from Amasia, they had

Kaisarea, Angora, Kutaya,

CaA'alry.

a circuit

by

Adramyt, and thence

across the Strait to Mytilene.

They had been

in

districts where travellers were unknown, and where

they were offered ancient coins in handfuls. They
had met with various adventures. Sometimes they

were thwarted by the fanaticism of the

priests,

and on those occasions carried matters with a high

hand, putting refractory MoUahs in prison, and doing
all

sorts of unheard-of things in the

name

of the three

Governments. Their only credential was a letter

but, being always accompanied
from the Seraskier
by about fiftymounted Bashi Bozouks, theymade their
allied

way like Xenophon with his Ten thousand.

recruits accumulated, they

Dardanelles in troop^s of

As

had sent them on

fifty

their

to the

or sixty at a time, com-

manded by Turkish ofl&cers.

They told me that in many remote

parts of Asia

Minor, the rural population, consisting chiefly of

Kurds, complained greatly of their Turlcish rulers,

IN THE LEVANT.

and expressed themselves ready

19
for

any change of

government.

Everywhere they found

the minds

in

of

the

people one ruling idea, that the three Allied Powers,

English, French, and Turks, were carrying on the

government of the

Porte in partnership.

country swarmed with thieves.

attached to this expedition.

I wish I

What an

The

had been

opportunity

of makino- archa3oloa;ical discoveries lost for ever

The names of my two guests were Colonel Shelley

and Colonel O'Reilly. Both seemed hard as flints,
and made of the right stuff for the rough work they
will have to encounter.
Colonel O'Reilly had been
for the last two years in the Turkish service, and
both had served in India.
They left me for the
Dardanelles last night.
I have just sent

home

England a batch of coins

to

most remarkable
Methymna, with the type of Arion on
a dolphin, and a coin of Eresos, both silver and
collected in ]\Iytilene, of which the

are a coin of

xmedited.^-

Coiii

nf Methi/mna.

The Smyraa

rol^bers

have at

last

met with a

check. Poor Dr. McCraith going out to visit a patient

at

Bournabat was seized

in

open day, carried

the mountains, and not released

ransom of 500, which Mr.

lent him.

till

off to

he had paid a

Wliittall very generously

Colonel Storks,
2

now

in

charge of the

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

20

went

military hospital at Smyrna, immediately

to

him to take energetic

measures to root out the brigands. The chief of the
band hearing of this, sent Colonel Storks a threatening message, informing him that he was to be
the Pasha, and called upon

and that the price they intended

their next victim,

demand for his ransom would be 20,000.

Upon this. Colonel Storks obtained from the Pasha

to

a force of about 200 soldiers, with

whom

he pur-

sued the brigands, driving them into the mountains

and cutting

reward was at the

offered for the heads of all the

same time
robbers

off their retreat.

more noted

and the villages which harboured theiu

were held responsible in every case in which their

could

complicity

be

proved.

measures have had their

two cavasses brouQ-ht

the band,
to

whom,

way

of being put

Smyrna, though, as

few days

head of the chief of

it

is

in

in the neighboiu-hood

fair

of

has been going on there for

it

will

be very

difficult to

which has taken such deep root

has come to be regarded almost as an

extirpate
it

after a

and brigandage

down

the last twenty years,

that

in the

energetic

as they said, they had been obliged

self-defence,

kill in

effect

These

an

institution.

evil

THE LEVANT.

IN

21

XXXIII.
Thekapia, November 26th, 1855.

CoLNAGHl's return fi-om England having released

me from my

long imprisonment at Mytilene, Lord

Stratford kindly invited

in order that

me

to

pay him a

we might talk over

visit here,

futiu'e archjeological

plans.

now been

have

rather

staying at the

more than a month.

Embassy

dreary isolation of Mytilene to the refined

Therapia was so great, that at the

ladies

and gentlemen,

thought

it

was

all

fii'st

life

and

it

was not

till

and

after

my

several days' practice in talking Enghsh, that

long- congealed ideas began to flow

and

of

aspect of

I felt like Cliristopher Sly,

a dream

for

The change from the

my

tongue

became unlocked.

most choice and agreeable

society is gathered together at this time round the
Ambassador's table, and I have seldom enjoyed more

intellectual

and

interesting

conversation.

something, too, in such a momentous

It

crisis, to

is

be so

near the head-quarters of a mighty war, and to note

progress, day by day, as telegram after telegram

its

comes
I

in

from the Crimea.

never quite realized the vast scale on which this

contest

is

being carried on, tiU I stood on the shore

of the Bosphorus, and saw the huge ships of

war

and transports plying up and down these Argonautic

straits

in

ceaseless

movement.

People

talk

of

22

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES!

watching the tide of Hfe at Charing Cross or on the

Thames

at this

time

but the thoroughfare of the Bosphorus

channel runs so deep near the shore, that

an uncommon thing

way through

its

breakfast-table

by

The

the grandest in the world.

is

it is

not

for a ship's bowsprit to find

a ground-floor

window on

to a

and the windows are often broken

salutes.

We

have had a succession of charming rides varied

by water excursions in the Ambassador's ten-oared

The scenery of the Bosphorus has not the

caique.

severe and

The landlocked bays

pelago.
sail

sculpturesque grandeur of the Ai'chirarely enlivened

by a

the storm-beaten headlands, and treeless iron-

bound coasts

the mountains rising from the long,

levelled line of the

seaward horizon, and relieved on

the deep blue ground of the sky, like metopes on a

temple

aU these gi'ander features are wanting

the scenery of the Bosphorus, which, in

finish,

reminded

me

of

its

in

exquisite

some of the backgrounds

in

the early Itahan pictiu'es.

Along
cession

its

well-wooded shores are an endless suc-

of villas

Indolence,

and kiosks,

fantastic

Castles

of

which the Turk and the Perote are

content to dream Ufe away, watching the caiques

ghding by, and only reminded of the

flight of the

hour by the periodical necessity of replenishing their

chibooques and narguilehs.

In the mode of fishing on the Bosphorus, I noticed

a curious illustration of an ancient word.

wooden perch

is fixed in the

the nets arc laid.

A high

water close to where

fisherman

sits

on the top of

23

IN THE LEVANT.

watching

this percli,

till

the fish have entered,

when

he gives a signal to his comrades on the shore to

draw

Such a sentry

in the net.

Quvvoa-xoTTog,

" watcher of

or

is

evidently the

tunnies

and

"

an

Athenian audience accustomed to this sight must

have apj^reciated with peculiar zest the metaphor by

which Aristophanes describes the demagogue Kleon

as sitting on the rocks and watching the shoals
of tribute-money coming in like

tunny-fish

rohg

Since I have been here, I have seen the collection

of Greek coins

Baron

of

Tecco,

It is particularly rich in

minister.

He

donia and Asia Minor.

the

Sardinian

coins of Mace-

possesses a fine specimen

of a rare archaic dodekadi'achm, in silver, which has

been attributed with probability to some early king

of Macedonia.

On one

figure seated in a car

the bull

is

side of this coin is a

drawn by a

single bull

bearded
;

above

a helmet, like that which occurs as the

principal ty]De in the early silver coins of the kings of

Macedon.

On

Below the

body

bull's

is

a lotos flower.

known to numismatists as
a triquetral formed of tliree human legs conjoined,
as on the arms of the Isle of Man.
The car is of a
the reverse

is

what

is

very primitive kind, the body being of wickerwork,

and the wheel having crosspieces instead of spokes.

Mr. Cumberbatch, om' Consul- General here, had a coin
similar to this (see ciit 1),

house was burnt.

Oxford,

is

a third specimen (cut 2), in which the

adjuncts are difterent

(cut

3),

which perished when his

In the library of Christ Church,

fi'om the

and

have seen a fourth coin

collection

of

M.

Gilet,

French

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

24

Consul at Salonica, in
is

wliicli

the ty]3e of the reverse

a hehnet instead of a triquetra.

early

Macedonian dodekadrachm may be compared

From

(1.)

(2.)

<3.)

with

This curious

two

silver

the Collection

From

of Mr. Cumherhatch.

the Collection at Christ Church,

From

the CoUectitm of

M.

octodrachms,

Gilet.

which,

from their

inscription, appear to have been struck

of the Edoniaus, at an early

by Geta, king
period, and which,

singularly enough, were found in the Tigris."

Baron

25

IN THE LEVANT.

Tecco has also a

silver coin of

Heraklea, in Bithynia,

with the type of a Victory crouching, a very fine

specimen of the art of Asia Minor; and a coin of

Cilicia in the

same metal, which has on the obverse

a female figure seated between two sphinxes, and on

the reverse an Athene

remarkable for

finish

Nikephoros.

This coin

The

and preservation.

is

style is

very elaborate and mannered, but has less of the

stiffness

which generally characterizes Chician coins,

and which

is

probably due to Persian influence.

Since I began this letter, I have been engaged

an excavation round the base of the famous

in

brazen serpent in the Atmeidan, or Hippotlronie.

This serpent

is

relic

and has a very cm'ious

dating from remote antiquity,

history.

Herodotus states that the golden tripod dedicated

to Apollo

by the

allied

Greeks, as a tenth of the Per-

was placed on a bronze serpent

with three heads which stood near the altar at Delphi.
On this monument, as we learn fi'om Thucydides,
sian spoils at Plattea,

Pausanias, regent of Sparta, inscribed an arrogant

distich, in

his

which he commemorates the victory

own name,

in

as general in chief, hardly mentioning

the allied forces

who gained

subsequently erased
substituted for

it

it.

This epigTam was

by the Lacedgemonians, who

an inscription enumerating the

various Hellenic states

who had taken

repulsing the Persian invaders.

a part in

The golden

tripod

perished in the plunder of Delphi by the Phocians

but the
attracting
situ,

bronze serpent on which

their

sacrilegious

it

cupidity,

stood,

was

left

not
in

and was seen at Delphi by the topographer

26

TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

PausaniaSj wlieu he visited the temple in the secoud

century of the Christian era.

We learn

from Zosimus and several other Byzan-

tine writers, that

Con stan tine the Great, when he

new Eastern

enriched his

the Greek pagan

capital with the spoils of

removed

temples,

the

bronze

serpent from Delphi to the Hippodi'ome at

where

stantinople,

viving

it

Con-

has remained ever since, sur-

the sieges, revolutions, and conflagrations

all

which have destroyed so many precious reUcs of the

Byzantine city.

succession of travellers, from the fifteenth cen-

tury to

own

oiu"

day, have

described the bronze

serpent as standing in the Hippodrome

testimony
satisfied

proof of

in

the

sceptical

its

identity

so

and the

completely

mind of Gibbon, that he

most holy relics

declares that " the guardians of the

would

were able to produce such

rejoice if they

a chain of evidence."

The serpent was

snakes intertwined.

drome taken

at the

century,

is

it

triple,

being composed of three

In two views of the Hippo-

commencement of the

represented with

the three heads

mentioned by Pausanias and Herodotus.

that

Mahomet

II.

struck

oS

of the heads with his mace,

heads were broken

ofi"

sixteenth

It is said

the under jaw of one

and that the three

about the end of the seven-

teenth century by the followers of Count Lisinsky,

then Ambassador from the Kino- of Poland at the

Porte.^'

Signer Fossati, the architect

who

restored St.

Sophia, in digging near that church found a bronze

27

THE LDVANT.

IN

serpent's head witlioiit a lower jaw, which

to belong to the Delphic

now

preserved in the

believed

is

monument, and which

Museum

is

of St. Irene, in the

The idea of making

the excavation in the Hippodrome was suggested
to me by Lord Napier, who thought that some inscription relative to this monument might be found
on its base. Lord Stratford having ol:)taincd for
(See

Seraglio.

me
I

a^ite, I. p.

a firman enabling

me

44.)

to dig in the

proceeded to the spot imder the

Hippodrome,

j^i'otection

of a

guard of cavasses, and accompanied by twelve lusty

On

Croats, with picks and wooden shovels.

way we were met by Admu'al Slade, who,

our

seeing an

Englishman surrounded by cavasses, imagined that

he beheld a fellow-countryman about to be carried
off to a Tm'kish prison, and called out, " Hallo
!

what are you going

to do with that Frank

"

The

chiaoux, or sergeant, in charge of the party informed

him that

who

digs

was no
holes

prisoner, but only " a wise

in the

man

ground " an explanation

which at once re-assured the Admiral.

After three days' digging,

cleared

away the

ground which concealed the base of the

serpezit.

The

no very

soil

had evidently been disturbed

distant period,

except

at

and contained no ancient remains,

very small

fragments

of

marble.

digging to the depth of rather more than 6

came

to the

feet, I

base of the serpent, a rough-hewn

stone plinth, evidently of the

After

Byzantine period.^^

few feet fi-om this plinth, at the depth of 8 feet

below the sm-face, was an ancient aqueduct foi'med

by

cylindrical

earthen pipes jointed one into the

28

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

and

other,

continuously

laid

block of marble

with

an earthen pipe passed lengthways.

face

at

square tank.
serpent

Close to this

bound

in strong-

remams

of a small

tiles

mortar, which appeared to be the

This block

angles to the

right

channel, probably for ventilating.

aqueduct was a foundation of

oblong

through which

16 inches long,

was pierced on one

an

Within three-quarters of a yard of the

was a marble archway, like that of a cloaca,

it a drain large enough to admit a man's
The serpent in its present state appears like a

and near
body.

hollow twisted Byzantine column, and, being placed

in the centre of the tank,

some period as a

at

tails

has probably been used

fountain.

Both the heads and

are wanting.

The entire height

monument from the plinth

is nearly 18 feet.
The earth
plinth is evidently made soil

of this

to the highest spiral

accumulated over the

and, according to a Tm'kish historian, the Hippo-

drome was raised to its present level at the commencement of the seventeenth century, when the
mosque of Sultan Achmet was built there,"
I

am

anxiously awaiting the arrival of the

from the Crimea, which Lord Lyons

down
offered

is

Medusa

about to send

the Ai-chipelago, and in which he has kindly

me

a berth din-ing her cruise.

We

hope to

have another look at Budrum.

[In the foregoing

letter,

have placed on record

the simple facts of the excavation as they appeared

to

me

at

the time.

regret that being

much

hurried at the time in preparations for a cruise in

the Medusa, I did not allow sufficient time for the

IN

examination of

tlie

been uncovered

had the

THE LEVANT.

29

portion of the serpent wliicli had

otherwise, I shoukl probal)ly have

satisfaction

of

making the remarkable

dis-

covery which was reserved for other archaeologists,

and

Avhich

to

only

contributed

as

humble

pioneer.

in

The portion of the serpent which had been bmned

the ground was thickly incrusted with an earthy
In January,

coating.

German

Otto Frick,

Dr.

185G,

archasologist, hearing that letters

discovered on the bronze, examined

its

had been

whole surface

minutely in company with Dr. Dethier, director of

the Austrian school in Pera.

had been removed by

acid,

After the incrustation

a long inscription ap-

peared, following the spirals of the

the base upwards to a
of the

soil

little

removed by me.

exposure to the

air

had

serpent fi'om

higher than the surface

Above

effaced nearly all traces of

After a labour which

the letters.

weeks, the inscription was

a cast in plaster taken of

long

this line,

it,

some
and

lasted

finally deciphered,

fi-om

which Dr. Dethier

has published a perfect fac-simile

in his

Memoir

on the Bronze Serpent.^^

The

inscription contains exactly

what the

state-

ments of Thucydides and Herodotus would lead us

to expect

the

names of those Greek

states

which

took an active part in the defeat of the Persians.

Thu'ty-one names have been deciphered, and there

seem to be traces of three more.

names on the
Corinthians.

list

The three

first

are the Lacedaemonians, Athenians,

The remainder

with those inscribed on the

are nearly identical

statue

of Zeus

at

30

TRAVELS AND DISCO^^EIES

Olympia, as they are given by Pausanias.

was dedicated

as has been already stated,

statue,

This

out of the same spoils of Platsea as the offering at

Delphi.

though these dedications were

It is probable that,

intended specially to commemorate the victory of

Platsea, the

Greek

two

states

lists

included the names of

who took

all

the

a part in the battles of Ther-

mopyla3 and Salamis, except in those which fornished

very inconsiderable contingents; and, accordingly,

we

find that of the thirty-sis

mentioned by

states

Herodotus as present in one or other of these three

battles,

we have

thirty-four,

and probably

certainly thirty-one,

on the Delphic monument.

The names

the

of

several

seem

states

to

be

arranged on the serpent generally, according to

their relative importance,

to their geographical

and

some regard
The states of

also Avith

distribution.

continental Greece are enumerated first

islanders and

west.

outlying colonies on the north and

In the hst at Olympia, as given by Pausa-

nias, the

cases.

then the

same order

is

observed,

except in five

Dr. Frick, in an interesting memoir on the

Bronze Serpent,
Philologie,""

in the

has

" Jahrbiicher

printed

both

fiir

lists

Classische

in

parallel

columns.
I have already alluded to the metrical inscription,

regent

Pau-

monument, which was

after-

or epigi'am, placed by the Spartan

sanias on the Delphic

wards effaced on account of

pretentious character.

From

its

egotistical

and

a comparison of the

several passages in ancient authors in which this

IN

erasure

is

mentioned,

THE LEVANT.
it

may be

31

fairly inferred

tliat

was removed from the same part of the

monument on wliich the list of states was subsequently inscribed, and accordingly, Dr. Dethier
the epigram

that on the

states

there
as

is

thirteenth coil of the serpent

depression of the surface, such

a visible

would be caused by cutting away an

inscription.

Dr. Frick, however, does not concur with him in

supposing that the epigram was erased from this

monument.
As the date of the battle of Plattea was B.C. 479,

part of the

it

may be assumed

that the setting up of the tripod

Dr. Dethier

took place very shortly afterwards.

consequently supposes that the present inscription

In that
was placed on the serpent B.C. 476.
case it must be considered one of the earliest speci-

mens

of Greek palgeography of which the date can

be positively
because
scribed

fixed,

and

it

is

especially interesting

we have several nearly contemporary inmonuments with wliich it may be compared.

These are the coins struck by the Messenians on

establishing themselves

at Zancle,

Syracusan decadrachm, which there

for supposing to

have been

struck

B.C. 494; the

is

good ground

by Demarete,

the wife of Gelon the First, after his victory over

the

Carthaginians,

B.C. 480; the bronze helmet

dedicated by Hiero the First at Olympia after his

naval victory over the Tuscans, B.C. 474

inscription discovered

contains the

me

and the

at Halicarnassus,

which

names of Lygdamis and Panyasis, and

of which the
All these

by

date

is

probably about B.C. 445.""

inscriptions exhiljit in the forms of the

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

32
letters

a gradual transition fi'om

more modern mode

to the

an instructive

for

series

tlie

more

arcliaic

form

of writing, and

student of

the

palfEO-

graphy.

The identity of the brazen serpent in the Hippodrome with the Delphic monument is proved, therefore,

not only by the chain of external evidence

which so

fully

satisfied

the acute mind of Gilibon,

but also by the historical and palajographical evidence

aflbrded by the inscription

On

itself.

the first discovery of this inscription, Professors

E. Curtius and Carl Botticher were disposed to think

that the bronze in the

Hippodrome was a Byzantine

reproduction of the original bronze serpent

and

has been alleged in support of this view, that

who

ancient writers

notice the Delphic

state that the list of states

tripod

itself,

pedestal.

all

the

monument

was inscribed on the golden

and not on the serpent which formed

But such

it

its

perfect accuracy of expression

is

seldom observed by ancient aiithors when they write

of objects so familiar to their
description of
superfluous.

them

When

dedicated in temples,

own

generation that a

would have appeared

in detail

tripods, or similar objects,

it

Avas usual to place

were

them on

high columns or bases; whence their name,ava5v]f(.aTa,

" things set up " so that in the mind of an ancient
;

Greek, the idea of a base of some kind was implied

in that of

instances,

anathema

an object dedicated

and though,

the inscription was

itself, it

graven

in

upon

some
the

was more usually placed upon the

pedestal.

Hence, the writers who notice the Delphic monu-

33

IK THE LEVANT.

ment

liave not tlious:ht it \vortli while to state wliat

they supposed to be

known

to every one.

Their statement, moreover,

if

taken

literally, is

only contradicted by the recent discovery, but

itself

improbable

state, the tripod

we know

for

if,

not

is

in

Herodotus and Pausanias

as

stood on the bronze serpent, which

to have been at least 20 feet high,

seems

it

very improbable that an inscription so interesting

to the Hellenic race for all time should have been

placed at so great a height above the eye.

Another inaccuracy

former notices

in

of

the

monument in the Hippodrome should also be noted.

Herodotus speaks of
three heads

it

as

follow him.

single serpent,

an error in which

But

it

composed of three

is

-with.

the Byzantine

all

who mention

it

certain that the bronze

is

and most of the

wi'iters

travellers

serpents,

so

cunningly inter-

twined together that their bodies appear one spiral

column.

From

the rude drawings

made

in the

seventeenth century, and also fi-om the fragment of

a head preserved in the

Museum

of the Seraglio,

it

seems certain that the three heads were represented

with gaping jaws.

The

tripod, of course, rested

imaginaiy restorations of

it

on the heads.

Two

are exhibited in Plate

IV. of Dr. Dethier's Memoir, of which Fig. 24 b

The

seems the most successful.

eyes of the serpents

must have been made either of precious stones,

or some vitreous paste, as the fragment of a
head in the Museum of the Seraglio has hollow
sockets.

Nowhere on the
VOL.

II.

surface of the bronze

is

there any

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

34

and

trace of scales,

the serpents were

it

left

is

evident

tliat tlie

bodies of

smooth, as they are constantly

represented in ancient sculpture in marble, for the

inscription

The

surface.

been

would have been

less legible

on

mass of bronze appears

entire

a-

scaly

to have

Dr. Dethier with the most minute ex-

cast.

amination could not detect any join in the metal;

yet

it is

not likely that so great a length should have

been cast in one piece.

Of the merits

monument as a work of art

now to judge, on account of its

of this

hardly possible

it is

mutilated condition.

must confess

that, neither

in the fragment of a head in the Seraglio nor in the

general treatment of the surface in the Hippodrome

bronze, could I recognize that force in the indica-

those refined gradations in the

tion of structiu-e,

modelling which characterize Greek art even at so

early a period as the Delphic dedication
this

want of

style

which led me, on

the serpent, to consider

from the

original,

an

it

fii'st

and

it

was

examining

a Byzantine restoration

opinion

which

has been

strongly maintained by Professor Curtius, but which

has been condemned by the general voice of German

archaeologists.

In

criticizing

mind that
artist

was

this

bronze

designing

it

compose the

so to

it

must be borne

the main object of the

coils of his triple

as to suggest the idea of an erect

column.

The

fore rather

in

serpent

and steadfast

natural form of the reptile was there-

adapted than directly imitated.

treatment was analogous to that of the

ments of Greek

architecture,

The

floral

orna-

which are rather

floral

IN THE LEVANT.

35

types tlian representations of real flowers, imitation

being only carried as far as

is

compatible mtli archi-

tectonic conditions.
I have ah'eady mentioned that

on digging ronnd

the base of the serpent I came to a pavement, which

appeared to be the bottom of a small tank, and which

suggested the idea to

used as a fountain.

me

that the serpent had been

Subsequently to

my

excavation,

a piece of leaden pipe Avas discovered inside the

serpent,

on which was part of an inscription in

Byzantine Greek, relating to some one

who was

prasfect, sirap-^ng, of Constantinople.

Frick thinks that the serpent was probably converted into a fountain in the time of Valens, A.D.

364

378.

Dethier supposes that this was done in

the reign of his successor Theodosius, and that the

prgefect

whose name was inscribed on the pipe may

have been Proclus, under whose direction the obehsk

The discovery
of the pipe shows that the serpent was used as a
fountain, and the tank in front of it was evidently
of the

Hippodrome was

set

up.

for the reception of the overflo'nang water.

monte, on his

visit to

Bundel-

Constantinople in 1422, about

was taken by the Turks,

was told that on great festivals water, milk, and wine
flowed from the three mouths of the serpent. This
thirty-one years before

statement

shows that
a fountain.

may

it

not have been

but

it

was regarded

as

literally true,

at that time the serpent

The stone base on which

the serpent

rests appears to be the cover of a cistern."

After the discovery of the inscription on the bronze

serpent, a larger excavation took place in the Hippo-

D 2

36

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

drome, at the expense of

Britisli

tlie

Government,

by whom a company of sappers was employed

On

the pm-pose, in April, 1856.

for

this occasion the

earth which had accumulated round the base of the

obehsk of Theodosius was removed

so

as

completely to exhibit the

in

relief

each

side.

sculptures

more
on

These sculptures, though rudely ex-

ecuted, are exceedingly curious as memorials of the

Byzantine empu-e in

The obehsk,
its

base,

as

its

we

was placed

palmy

days.

learn from an inscription on

in its present position

The operation was

dosius.

and was performed

on the north
tation of the

in thirty-two days.

men

On

is

The

relief

side of the pedestal is a rude represen-

manner

in

which

this difficult piece of

The

engineering Avas accomplished.

obelisk

by Theo-

directed by Proclus,

attached to a wheel.

are hauling

it

Two

foot

of the

gangs of woi'k-

by ropes attached to capstans.

the south side of the pedestal are the emperor

Theodosius, his empress, ^lia Placidia, and his

two sons on a throne, under an alcove supported by
two columns. On either side are body-guards and

Below the emperor are two rows of

lattices, xiyxX/osj (whence the Latin cancelli, and our
chancel and chancellor).
Four steps lead up to this
attendants.

lattice,

one of

on the lowest of which two figures stand,

whom

appears to be pleading.

therefore, probably represents the

in the tribunal,

This scene,

emperor presiding

which anciently stood on the Hip-

podrome.

Below these steps is a semicircular recess or

tribune, and below this another lattice with steps, on

37

IN THE LEVANT.
wliicli

Below

stand officers flinging purses of largess.

are two

the ujDpermost of wliicli represents

fi-iezes,

the Hippodrome as

appeared after the obehsk had

it

been set up.

The scene is bounded on either side by the metce,

or goals. Next to the meUe on the left, is a runner,

a horseman

then the obelisk of Theodosius,

triumphal arch,-

a group of

several figures.

which appears from

serpent, but
factorily

a figure kneeling to receive a crown,

which

made out

position to be the bronze

its

is

Next comes a stump,

too

much decayed

to be satis-

then a second obelisk, doubtless

the one which was once covered with bronze plates,

and which
figure

still

stands in the Hippodrome

standing,

a horseman, and

closing the scene on the right.

then a

the

metce

The lowest

fi-ieze

on this side of the pedestal represents a chariotrace.

On

the east side the subject of the sculpture

is

the emperor on his throne, surrounded by his com't

and presiding over a

music,

among which

instrument originally
or

is

a band of

two kinds of organs, an

suggested by the Pan's pipe

are

invented B.C. 200.

west side

Below

and which, according to Athenseus, was

syi^inx,

first

feast.

is

Below are dancers.

On the

another representation of the emperor

on his throne, with his empress, his two sons and

Here he is receivingattendant courtiers.

his

foreign ambassadors or tributaries, of

are two groups,

Those on the
Scythians

left

kneehng

whom

there

in token of submission.

appear fi-om their costume to be

those on the right are clad in sheepskins.

TKAYELS AND DISCOTEEIES

38
There

is

in tlie

Hippodrome

second obelisk,

was once covered

inscription on its base

built of blocks of stone, wliicb

with plates of
records that

An

gilt

bronze.

tliis

obelisk

peror Constantino, son of

A.D. 1025-8.

The

since disappeared.

was restored by

Romanus

tlie

who

II.,

Em-

reigned

plates of gilt bronze have long

They were

stripped off during

the Latin invasion of Constantinople by the same

Western barbarians who melted down the bronze

statues, masterpieces from the hand of Lysippus, and
converted them into coin to pay their troops with. If
the bronze serpent escaped a like destiny,
tion

was probably due

its

to the accident that

preserva-

it

seems to

have been regarded in the Middle Ages as a talisman.

We

are in the habit of ascribing aU the destruction

of ancient works of art in the Levant to the Turks,

must be remembered that Greek Iconoclasts

and Latin Crusaders have had a good share in
this work.
Before digging in the Hippodrome I
had an interview with Fuad Pasha, in order to

but

it

obtain the necessary permission.

there were stiU any ancient

I expressed

my

regret

Inquiring whether

MSS.

in the Seraglio,

that the Turks on taking-

Constantinople should have destroyed the precious

libraries

wliich

must have existed

there.

Fuad

admitted the barbarism of the act, " but," he added,

" did not the Spaniards take Granada about the

and did they show more regard for the

MSS. and archives which were stored up m

same time
ancient

the Hbraries of the Moors

"blame the Turks

You must

not," he said,

so mucli as the century

these barbarous acts were perpetrated."

when

IN THE LEVANT.

As

the Porte has

now

allowed the Hippodrome

to he completely explored,

some

fiitm'e

39

it is

to be

hoped that at

may

occur for dig-

day an opportunity

ging under the foundations of the porphyry column,

which stood

the

in

Forum

of

Constantino,

having suffered in a conflagration,

the

name

of the Burnt Column.

is

and,

now known by

It is said that

under

the foundations of this column Constantino deposited

the celebrated Palladium, which had been preserved
at

Rome from

Vesta."^

time immemorial in the Temple of

If this tradition be true, this relic

probably be found where Constantino placed

if

ever a

new

Christian empire

is

would

it

and

founded at Con-

stantinople, the discovery of this relic of old

Rome

would be an incident worthy of its inauguration.]

XXXIY.
BuDEUir, January 30, 185G.

I LEFT Constantinople

weeks ago, bound

Lord Stratford

the

in

]ia\'ing

promised to apply to the

me

in the first instance to

to wait there

till

six

for a cruise to the south.

Porte for a firman to enable

we went

Medusa about

to excavate here,

Rhodes, intending

the firman arrived.

As, however,

the weather was very stormy, and Rhodes

unsafe anchorage in winter,

Marmarice on the opposite

we

coast,

is

an

crossed over to

where

is

one of

the finest harbours in the world, completely land-

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

40
locked

well

known as

tlie

station of the Englisli fleet

both in Sir Sidney Smith's time, and more recently

The

during the Syrian war.

-s-illage

of Marmarice

a wretched place, built on a low marshy

The harbour has

bad water.

site,

with

lieen defended

by a

small castle built by the Knights, Avhich

ruins.

Marmarice

is

is

is

now

in

the site of the ancient Physkos,

of which I coidd find no remains, except on a hiU

about three-quarters of a mile to the north of the

village.

On

Assarlik,

and lower down the hiU some remains of

the summit

is

a medieval castle, called

Hellenic walls, by which an ancient acropolis has

been defended.

To employ our time

while

we were waiting

for

the firman, I set out with Lieutenant Heath on a

journey along the coast, with the hope of reaching

Budrum by the overland route. Leaving Marmai'ice

at 9.15 a.m., we arrived at Djova, at the head of the
gulf of the same name, at 5.30 p.m., hoping to find

a sailing-vessel to take us to Cos.

at

Djova

is

good, but the place

is

The anchorage

very unhealthy in

summer, and the few inhabitants have a wan,

stricken

which

look,

reminded

me

of

fever-

Strabo's

account of the Caunians, whose green complexions

induced an ancient wit to quote on seeing them

Homer's well-known
o'lrjirep

This place

is

line

(pvWoi)' yfJT)), Tou'jce cat ufCpuii:

considered to be the ancient Bargasa.

I noticed here a square niche cut in the side of the

cliff

which overhangs the

Mughla,

sea,

and on the road to

at the distance of half

an hour's walk from

the harbour

is

41

THE LEVANT.

INT

an eminence, on

overlooking the marshy plain.

wliicli is

an old castle

This was

jii'obably

Greek Acropolis, as on the side looking towards the

port

is

a piece of polygonal masonry, and in the

road below traces of Hellenic walls along the edge

Failing to hire a sailing-vessel at

of the valley.

Djova, we rode on to Mnghla, a town in the interior,

Caimakam of the district.

The journey took us a day. On leaving Djova, we
the place of residence of the

crossed a lofty ridge,

the summit of which a

fii-om

The horizon

magnificent view opened to the south.

was bounded on the south by the snow-crowned

peaks of the Lycian mountains, and in the middle
distance coiild be seen other mountains of the most
picturesque forms, and a large salt-water lake,
Kujis, distant about eight hours.

On

arriving at

Mughla we were quartered by the

Caimakam on a rich Greek, who

hospitably.
Our host, who was a

received us very
seraff,

or money-

changer, showed us a letter and book fi-om England,

which had been sent to

liim

through the

British

Consul at Smyi^na, and which he could not read.

To my

surprise, the

of the Jurors
letter

Great Exhibition, and the

a certificate declarmg that

stantine Nicola,

He was much
this

book was the volume of Reports

of the

certificate

had been a contributor.

disappointed

would not

having

protection,

our host, Con-

document with so

had

official

when he was told that

him to British

entitle

vague

hope

that

a look might be converted

into a passport.

Mughla

is

situated in a plain at

the foot of a

42

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

steep rock, on wliicli lias evidently stood an ancient

This

Acropolis.

rock

distant

is

twenty

aboiit

minntes' walk to the north-east of the town.

top

The

nearly level, so that, seen from below, the

is

rock presents the appearance of a truncated cone.

A road

from the town winds along the south and

This road follows the hue

west sides of the base.

an ancient approach to

of

the

Acropolis,

as

is

shown by the number of square niches and caverns

cut in the

rock on each side

these,

doubtless,

contained votive offerings.

On

summit of the rock, I found

a level platform, which has been surrounded by an
Hellenic wall constructed of squared blocks of no
At the south-west end
great size without mortar.
arriving at the

of the platform extensive landslips appear to have

taken place, and great fissures occur in the rock,

as if

it

had been rent asunder in some convulsion of

On

nature.

this

the wall has been carried

side

away, but there are marks in the rock where a

bed has been cut

On

for its reception.

east side the platform terminates in an

cipice,

On

side

the inside of the

sill,

but

all

vulsed by earthquakes.

has been torn and con-

This

hill

mands an extensive view over the

I purchased at Mughla the
of

open pre-

a mountain torrent.

is

two chambers are cut out of the rock,

one of which was a window with two steps on

this

in

below which

the south-

Pixodarus,

Prince

seldom to be met with

reigned.

of

Caria,

fortress

com-

plain.

small

which

in the districts

gold
is

coin

very

over which he

43

THE LEVANT.

IN

I could not hear of

any antiquities at Mughla,

but Ross discovered here, in the house of a Greek

marble

inhabitant,

dedication by Nicolaos, son

to

of Leon,

Hermes, Herakles, and the

He

of the Tarmiani.

This

having

inscription

Tarmiani

been

probably the

is

community

supposes that this

was probably attached to the

of Ehodes,

xoivov or

one of the conventus noticed

it

inscribed with

pedestal

xoivov

was

by Pliny, and that

of Cibyra.

a-uvTsT^sKx.

Mughla,

found at

ancient

name

of

this

place."^

Immediately after
rainy season

set

in

our

at

arrival

Mughla the

and the weather looked so

unpromising that we gave up our projected

Budrum and

returned to Marmarice.

started, the rain

visit to

When we
had

in such torrents, that,

fell

it

not been for a stringent order fi'om the Caimakam,

it

would

have

induced any

The

been

impossible

continuously

us to have

accompany us to Marmarice.

sm'iji to

day of our journey

first

for

it

rained for six hours

but om^ luggage being well protected

by a large mackintosh sheeting, was quite dry.

We

found shelter at night in a hut on the summit

of a mountain-pass.

splendid

fire

of logs

of

pitch-pine soon dried the wet clothes of our poor

followers

and we had a very comfortable supper,

eked out by a
the ship.

On

tin

of preserved vegetables from

the evening of the second day

we

arrived at Marmarice.

The whole route from Marmarice

is

singularly

destitute

of villages,

to

Muorhla

ciiltivation,

or

even animals. The greater part of the road traverses

44

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

pine forests and mountain-passes,

man

signs of

where

are the l)lack tents of the

only

tlie

Turcomans

or their lonely graves scattered about in the glades

of the pine forest.

We

saw very

little

hardly any wild bird but the jay.

game, and

Now

and then

the monotony of our route was relieved by meeting

a long string of camels, with their melodious chime
of bells, conveying the produce of the interior to

the ports of Djova, or Marmarice, along roads

for goats

fitter

than for beasts of burthen.

The weather having become

less threatening,

we

returned to Rhodes, and anchored this time in the

Here we attempted

open road outside the harboim.

Christmas-day;

to enjoy

of the

usual merry antics which sailors perform

after dinner

the

but just in the middle

on

this day,

it

came on

blow from

to

and we were obliged to take shelter

north,

under the

lee of Cos.

Here we spent two days,

and then crossed over to Cape Crio, where we

landed, and passed a day in exploring the ruins of

We

Cnidus.

made a

excavation

small

in

the

theatre near the southern harbour, but without any

From Cnidus we went

result.

we were very

my

of

old

to Calymnos, Avhere

enthusiastically received

workmen, who were

by a party

in hopes that

we

were coming to make excavations on a great scale.

I purchased here a very cm4ous inscription from
the Temple of Apollo, relating to the enfranchise-

ment of

slaves

by a kind of deed of

they were assigned for

life

sale,

by which

to the service of the

god,
I

was interested to

see that since

my visit to

Calym-

45

IN THE LEVANT.

nos the

inliabitaiits

making a

had made great progress

in the

pier into the deep water of their harbour,

alongside of which ships of 200 tons can be safely

This pier has been formed

moored.

Each Calymniote caique

simple process.

out on a cruise

number

by slow

for

the

pier,

according

And

so the

and

gradual

is

to

its

work goes

each native

deposits,

mariner contributing his mite towards

energy

that goes

expected to bring back a certain

is

of stones

capacity and opportunities.

on

by a very

Such

it.

the improvement of natural advantages

rare in the islands on this side of the Archipelago.

Doubtless commerce has in

many

been

places

checked by the jealous restrictions imposed on

development by the Turks

commercial

enterprise

in

but the absence

the Archipelago

wholly to be attributed to this cause,

Ijut

is

is

its

of

not

due in

part to the apathy and helplessness of the islanders

themselves,

and

probity in their
is

still

more

dealings

to

the

want of that

one with another which

the only basis of commercial credit.

From Calymnos we crossed over to this place,

where we were not sorry to find oiu'selves in a secm-e
roadstead.
Here we were most kindly received by
Salik Bey, a rich Turk, who lives in a large ruinous
konak on the shore of the harbour.
He is the
son of Halil Bey, who was Governor of Budrum

when

Sir

Francis

Beaufort \asited this place in

had

take leave

1811.

Here

to

of

my

comfortable

quarters on board the ]\Iedusa, for Lieut. Heath

had now prolonged his cruise to the latest period

46

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

named

and was obliged to proHaving received no tidings of the

firman for which we had so long waited, I determined to employ the interval till it arrived in a
visit to Mughla, whither I had been requested by
in his instructions,

ceed to Malta.

Mr. Campbell to proceed

a number of recruits for the

The only

in the Crimea.

purpose of enroUing

for the

Land Transport Corps

disagreeable part of this

was the necessity of carrying with me

expedition

about 300 Napoleons, to be paid to the recruits as

bounty on

my

arrival at

After leaving

Mughla.

Budrum,

I arrived after six hours'

travelhng at Guverjihk, at the head of the Gulf of

Mendelet,
night.

but

or Mendelia,

This

is

where we halted

a wi^etched hamlet, once a village,

now consisting of about three

custom-house
pine-timber

for the

is

of

houses.

A Tm'kish

placed here to levy duties on the

the

exportation. There
situation is veiy

is

neighbouring
safe

forests

on

anchorage here, but

rmhealthy.

The

its

extreme

Guverjilik

which makes
tent fever.

gulf,

shallowness along the shore of

probably the cause

is

its

sea appears to

be gradually receding fi^om the head of the

and

its

this

of the

miasma

place very subject to intermit-

No good

di'inking-water

is

procurable

here.

After leaving Guverjihk, I proceeded to Mylasa,

crossing a plain to the east of the site of the ancient
Bargylia.

At the

minutes from

distance of an horn' and forty

Guverjilik,

passed the village

of

Wavri-Koi,"* on an eminence overlooking the plain

about two miles distant on our right.

Large herds

47

IN THE LEVANT.

of cattle are kept here, as

salt

marsh

tlie

plain bordering on the

affords rich pasturage.

Five minutes after passing this village, I noticed

a rock on the right-hand side of the road, in which

was a small cavern surmounted by a niche 3 feet

high by 2 feet 4 inches wide."^ The road here falls
in with the line of a causeway, in which I observed
square blocks and part of an ancient cornice.

At two hours and

ten minutes' distance from

Guverjihk, I noticed a tumidus on the right hand.

Here a mountain beyond Mylasa comes in sight.

Mylasa is a large Turkish town picturesquely situated
This place has been so fully
in a great plain.
explored

Lebas and other

by

travellers,

that

found but few remains which had not been already

noticed.

At about

ten minutes' distance to the south-west

town is a field called Guwiseh Guza. Here

number
are a
of unfinished columns of grey marble
ranging in a hne with an old Turkish tomb
and a decayed fountain.
To the south-west of
of the

these columns

is

a platform which appears to be

supported by a wall

under

the

sui-face.

In a

hedgeroAv near these remains are some smaller fluted

columns.

In this

field I

noticed at a well part of a large

column on which were the prongs of a trident rudely

cut in

relief,

and some

letters of a

Greek inscription

Near these remains

a portion of the ancient city wall runs east and west
for about 117 yards.
Towards the south it runs up
to the foot of a rocky hill, where it is lost.
The

partly concealed in the wall.

48

TEAVELS A^D DISCOVEKTES

masonry
in tlie

On

A view

polygonal.

is

work

of this wall

is

given

of Lebas (Itin. PI. 64).

tlie north,

town is a very beautiful

composed of three doorways

side of the

mosque, with a portal

with pointed arches.

From Mylasa

of

went

to Eski Hissar (Stratonicea),

which the stately Roman ruins have been so often

described that I have nothing to add to the notices

of former travellers.

continued

At

Haltins' here for a nig'ht, I

my journey

the next day.

the distance of half an hour from Eski Hissar

the road crosses the source of a small river called

Buzlik Chai, which was flowing north, and which

I

was

told

was a tributary of the Mendere.

The

water issues from a built passage under ground.

Here are foundations, as if some ancient edifice

had stood on this spot. At the distance of one hour
fi'om Eski Hissar, we passed on the left the village
of Agrikoi, which contains about 200 inhabitants.
The direction of the road here was due east. Half
an hour further on we passed on the right t^ve village
of Buzuk, close to the road.

hours onwards

with

we

From

Agrikoi for two

traversed a rich pl^in cultivated

Indian corn.

The remainder of the route

passed over a more barren and mountainous district.

We

arrived at

leaving

Budrum.

Mughla on the fourth day

after

After waiting here five days, I

ascertained the fact that no land transport recruits

were forthcoming.

Either the agent employed at

Mughla by Mr. Campbell

for their enlistment

had

deceived him, in the hope of getting hold of the

49

IN THE LEVANT.

bounty money, or they

liad

been scared away by

local influence.

The Turks in the thinly populated parts of Asia

Minor feel the drain of their o\Yn conscription so

much

that they

discourage

secretly

own

for their allies in their

men

few able-bodied

all

district,

recruiting

having very

to spare.

Having disposed of the business on which I was

sent, I set out on my return, with the same uncomsuspended round

fortable weight of gold

thought

as well to have with

it

Pasha's mounted police, or Zap ties,

armed and equipped, and very

for the British traveller
all

in

Though the roads were reported

a canvas girdle.
safe, I

my waist

me

one of the

who

are fairly

useful in securing

good quarters and food

at

the places where he halts on his joiu'ney.

My

first

object on leaving

Mughla was

to visit

Lagina, distant about two hours fron Eski Hissar,

where, as we learn from Strabo, was a celebrated

temple of Hekate. The

first

night I halted at Agrikoi,

distant about six hours fi'om Mughla,

just at the

Turkish

moment

country

tentious Tm-ks,

gentleman.

many

villages,

made

They were very

some rich
The Aga's konak

of

full

of grave sen-

them agas from the

sur-

each with a small wiry Turkish

horse, tethered in the

saddle-bags

in

of the wedding of

whereoii I was billeted I found

rounding

and came

Aga's court-yard, a pair of

of carpet,

coiu'teous

and an attendant

cavass.

and well-bred specimens

and had something of

that "landed look" which Sydney Smith attributes to
the English squire. One of them, more knowing than
of Turkish country gentlemen,

VOL.

II.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

50

his neighbours, read extracts

from a Constantinople

newspaper about three months

the

fall

of Kimbiu"u

old,

which told of

the rest smoked in that silent,

meditative manner which accords so well with Turkish

They were not

tobacco.

lively or intelligent, per-

haps, as Greeks might have been;

were at

to let the tired

then'

but then they

They had the good taste

stranger alone.
They did not poke
my cai"pet-bag, nor inquire what the

least better bred.

hands into

object of my travelling was, or

how much

a year, or what wages I gave

my

I possessed

cavass.

They

neither fished for compliments nor bestowed them.

Their hospitality did not oppress by excess of attention

at

and

my

officious

meddlmg.

In short, I

felt

quite

ease.

After passing the night at Agrikoi, I rode next

mornrag to Lagina, which

where I was quartered

is

a small secluded village,

in the Oda, or strangers'

room, which Turkish hospitality provides in so many

places for the passing traveller.

On inquirmg

for ruins, I

was taken

to a place

about half an hour distant from the village where

I

fotmd the remains of the temple mentioned by

Strabo, lying in

situ.

Columns, pieces of

frieze

and

and other architectural marbles, were

lying piled up, one over the other, just as they must
architrave,

have

fallen,

if,

as can hardly be doubted, this temple

was thrown down by an earthquake.

The ruins form an irregular mound, extending

N.W. and S.E.

for

about 73 paces, and presenting

two principal heaps connected by an intermediate

lower ridge.

The heap on the N.W.

is

formed by

IN

THE LEVANT.

51

the ruins of a Cormtliian temple, peristyle, and octostyle in the fi'onts.

columns are

Foiir

tion on the north-west front

still

in j^osi-

then- diameter, at 6 feet

2^ inches above the base, was 2

feet

lO-g-

inches.

Then' intercolumniatious, measm^ed from centre to

centre, are 8 feet

temple

26

is

59

-^

feet

10 inches.

feet

The width of the

of an inch.

lOf

inches,""

and of the

The architrave

is

cella

2 feet 3

inches high, and a sculptm^ed frieze 3 feet ^ inch

high.

On

the south-eastern heap are shafts of columns

and frag-

partially fluted, 2 feet 1 inch in diameter,

ments of Doric architecture, Avhich seem to belong

to a smaller edifice adjoining the Corinthian temple.

Of the

frieze I

found nine slabs, on

were groups of standing and seated

of which

all

figiu'es.

the composition and general type of these

From
fig-ures,

was

unable to recognize the subjects of any of them.

On

I should infer that they represent deities.

one slab

was

throne, near

her

left

child,

a female figure stands holding in

hand what may represent a new-born female

Avrapped in swaddling-clothes.

figures,
slab.

whom

seated on a

a female

rejjresented

Several other

male and female, are represented on this

It is possible that the subject

may be

the bfrth

Most of these slabs have suffrom the weather. The stylo of the
bold and forcible, though somewhat

of Hekate herself."^
fered greatly

sculpture

is

The drapery

coarse and conventional.

is

rather too

angular and deficient in flow.

In the south-east heap I found a statue, lying

half-buried in the ground.

It is

E 2

engaged at the back

TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

52
in a pilaster,

and was,

therefore, probably an archi-

tectural statue. It represents a female figure, draped

The

to the feet, rather larger than life-size.

somewhat meagre.
The temple is surrounded by a
oblong form,

On

temple.

may

its sides

peribolos of an

being parallel to those of the

the south-west, the wall of the peribolos

very

be

style is

distinctly

traced.

It

commences

near the north-west angle, and runs to a gateway,

which

formed of three

is

and two jambs,

On

other.-^

slightly

the

converging towards each

architrave

is

an inscription in

several hnes, of which I could only

letters,

on

condition

account

The

distinguished.

of

an architrave

stones,

its

height

words [Ka7o-]ap
It therefore

make out a few

and

SsoO

olog

decayed

may be

probably records the

building or repair of the temple by

some Roman

emperor.

On

the same side of the peribolos, but more to the

west, were steps with a projecting cyma, hke those

of a theatre, ranged in horizontal rows one above

another.

The north-west boundary of the peribolos is

marked by many drums of colmnns strewn about.
The shafts of these columns were fluted for half theh
length.
The diameter of the fluted part of the shaft
was 1 foot 9 inches, inclusively of the flutings,
which Avere so much broken away that then" depth
could not be ascertained.
The building material
employed

in this temple

is,

throughout, a coarse

white marble.

Among

the ruins in

all

parts of the site I found

IN THE LEVANT.

53

most

inscrijDtions, containing, for the

part, registers

of the names of priests of Hekate and of benefactors

of the temple.

The follomng particulars may be gathered fi^om

them.
The temple of Hekate probably had a numerous sacerdotal body of both sexes, as mention is
made of the High Priest (ap^ispsvy), the priests
(ki>s7s),

whom

with

their wives

were associated as

priestesses, the officer in charge of the Mysteries

(o s7ny.s\o6[xevos

rwv [xua-rriplmv), and the KXs<3oC^opou(ra,

or key-bearing priestess.
priestess
TTOfXTrrj

is

The

explained by

the

office

of this latter

expression

xX=j%j

("the procession of the key"), which occurs

This key was one of the
Hekate Tpto^ng, or Trivia, the god-

in several inscriptions.

attributes of

dess

whose statue was usually

jDlaced at the inter-

section of three roads.

Among
seiun

Eoman

the

may be

sculptures in the British

Mu-

seen a statue of this Hekate Trivia,

represented with three bodies looking different ways.

In one of her hands she holds a

key.""

The priesthoods were probably

limited to parti-

cular families and with succession in rotation.

priests, doubtless,

The

had the management of the sacred

lauds belonging to the temple, out of the revenues of

which they gave largesses and public entertainments.

On

one occasion, certain priests presented to each

citizen tvfo denarii, equal to

fourpence.
the

citizens

about one shilling and

This largess was given in the theatre,

bemg

called

over by

name from

the

registers (osXto*) of their deme, or township.

There appears to have been a great

festival

in

54

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

honour of
taeteris.

tlie

goddess every

five years, called

The procession of the key appears

been an annual

festival

Pcn-

to have

on

of great importance,

which occasion gymnastic entertainments were given

by the

There were also

j^riests.

in the course of

the year various other festal days sacred to Hekate.

The temple appears

TToX/ov),

to have

had a

which probably contained

territory

It is

villages.

uncertain whether this was an independent

(jrspt-

district,

was part of the neighbouring canton,

or (rixTTTjixa, of villages, of which the Temple of
Zeus Chrysaoreus, near Stratonicea, was the central
or whether

point.^

it

Lagina

is

described by Stephanus Byzan-

tius as TToX/^vioi/ Kafilag.^^

In the course of the inscriptions, mention

is

made

of the Senate (hoide) and popular Assembly {demos),

and of

civil

magistrates, such as Prijf ernes and Ste-

flmnephori, in whose

name

the decrees

made by

the

senate and people were registered.

In a frag^ment of one of these decrees mention

made

name has

is

and of
two Carian towns, Themessos and Keramos. The
former of these cities is evidently the Themissos of
of some king whose

Stephanus Byzantius

perished,

Keramos was one of the most

important towns in the Chrysaorian confederacy of

Carian

The

cities.

site

north-east,

of the temple overlooks a plain to the

and commands an extensive and

view, bounded by mountains.

mosque almost
marble,

beautiful

In the village

is

entirely built of fragments of white

among which

noticed

an

and other architectural fragments.

Ionic volute

In the road

55

IN THE LEVANT.

descending from the village to

abundant spring,
rites of

an oblong marble

this fountain the

iDasin,

water

an

is

used

Avas probably

wliicli

At

Hekate.

temple

tlie

in the

falls

into

which appears ancient.

I spent five days at Lagina copying inscriptions,

and

reluctantly, feeling sure that there

left it

much more

to be discovered

on

which has been singularly overlooked by

though

it lies

so near the

was

this interesting site,

travellers,

main route from Mylasa

to

Mughla.

Mylasa and thence to lakly, where

I returned to

there

a Corinthian temple of the

is

which has been described by several

This
branda,

site,

Roman

travellers.

which has been erroneously called La-

Wishing to

probably that of Euromus.

is

joeriod,

visit

the ruins of the ancient Bargjha, near Guver-

jilik,

I proceeded from lakly to Tekrambari,

Tekrambari

I halted for the night.

is

a village on a

small eminence, in the midst of marshes,

which,

arriving

nightfall,

after

finding the village at last after

Between

we

some

where

lost

among

om' way,

difficulty.

and the sea is a low alluvial

plain which has jii'obably filled up the head of the
If Tekrambari was ever on the sealassie Gulf.
shore,

it

this place

is

very probably the

site

of the ancient

Passala, the jDort of Miletus, as Lebas supposes.^"

From Tekrambari

continued

my

journey to

Guverjilik, intending to visit the ruins of Bargylia

my

way.

on

In the plain, at the distance of one hour

from Teki'ambari,

is

a small eminence on which has

stood a Greek temple.

blocks remain

-in

situ.

On

the north side a few

The columns

are of grey

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

56

They have been used

marble, fluted.

in a Turkish cemetery

was

this jDlace

on the spot.

as gravestones

was

told that

the same as those described hj Texier,

iii.

He

144, as

p.

being distant a league from Bargylia, dans

de V autre cote des colUnes.

may be

These ruins

called Assari.

la

plaine

conjectures that the

temple of Artemis Kindyas stood here.

The
is

site of

Bargylia

is

on a peninsula round which

arm

a shallow salt-lake, which has been an

As we passed

sea.

this lake

of the

on our way to Guver-

seeing the ruins of Bargylia on the opposite

jilik,

shore, I

made an attempt

my

where

to cross

muleteer said the

over at a ford,

mud would

bear

oiu*

weight.

"We were going along in single

nearly crossed over the mud,

when

file,

and had

I heard a loud

and looking back, saw the bag-

shriek behind me,

gage-horse sink deep into the slough.

We

dragged

out the baggage, the state of which I was afraid to

examine

till

we got

into our night quarters at Guver-

To my horror, I then found all the impressions

made at Mylasa and Lagina floating

jilik.

of inscriptions

box in which I carried them, the bibulous

paper on which they were taken being reduced to a
in the tin

Remembering that paper

pidpy mass.

will

always

dry when let alone, I succeeded by delicate manipulation in

saving

all

the impressions, which retained

the forms of the letters, with very slight diminution of their sharpness.
jilik,

north.

went

After sleeping at Guver-

to Bargylia, distant

This

site,

deserted spot, cut

now

ofi"

called

two hours to the

Assarlik,

is

a wild

from the mainland by the sea

57

IN THE LEVANT.

and

The ancient

salt-lake.

city stood

ground, to the east of which

on

rising;

a dreary waste of

is

muddy marsh, where are now salt-pans, and which

in the time of the Eomans must have been covered
by the
The

sea.

are

ruins

in the

Those principally

Chart, No. 1531.

are as follows

down

laid

all

Admiralty

to be noted

small temple on an eminence, lying north-west

and south-east, and overlooking an Odeum on the

south-east and a theatre on the east.

the foundations appears at intervals.

seems to have been about 96

feet in length.

The small Odeum, or musical

measures 49^

the Chart,

The line of
The peristyle

theatre,

feet at the

marked

chord of

in
its

The distance from the centre of the chord

arc.

to

the centre of the

38

feet.

There are

arc,

at

in all ten

the lowest step,

rows of

steps,

is

which

are each 1 foot 5 inches in heiolit.

Odeum

South-east of the

is

the foundation of a

Doric portico, lying north-east and south-west.

length

is

50

The

feet.

marked by a

is

have a diameter of

7 feet 9 inches

the

relating to

dedication

The temple on the

had very small
cornice,

and

the shore,

iit

fluted

little

in

The

Several pieces

have inscriptions

of the portico,

called

marked in the Chart,

columns and a few pieces of

else.

marked

sitx

is

and the columns

1 foot 11 inches.

architrave lying

Its

column

circular space cut in the stone.

intercolumniation

of the

position of each

shore,

Close to the causeway on

the Chart, I found the in-

68

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

scription,

No. 496, of Lebas, containing a decree of

the senate and people of Bargylia in lionour of one

Exekestos, son of Diodotos,

or friend to

We

who

styled cpiXoxaia-ap,

is

some Roman emperor.

found in a hut at Bargylia

sis or

seven indi-

viduals of very forbidding aspect, one of

whom was

a Samiote, and another a Baslii Bozouk,

out

my

who

pointed

gold watch-chain to his companions, Avith an

unpleasant chuckle, but made no attempt to extort

money.

was not sorry

to get

away from such

company, considering that I was then carrying

in

my

money intended

as

Two

or

about 240, the

girdle

boimty for the Land Transport

recruits.

three of this party were tending sheep and goats

but I suspect that the rest were hiding from the

pursuit of the Pasha's police.

The peninsula has

bitants.

at

present no regular inha-

Turkish village on the

city was, like

many

site of

the ancient

small places along this coast,

ruined dm-ing the Greek revolution by inciirsions of

I returned to

pirates.

Bucfrum by Guverjilik.

XXXV.
Ehodes, April

After
fii'man

my

visit

to

5,

1856.

Mughla, finding that

which I had so long expected did not

the

arrive,

some weeks in exploring the antiquities of

Budrum.
Having free access to the Castle there, I
I spent

Vol

Plate
I

PLAN OF

HAI.I CARNASSO S
(Budrum.)

^^Is-Ji".

^^^
--

-^^ llWf -

69

IN THE LEVANT.

examined

very

it

cojiying

carefully,

scriptions I could find

there.

It is

the

all

built

in-

on the

rocky extremity of the eastern side of the harliour.

This rock, which

(See Plate 1.)

was

square,

is

in antiquity the site of

and according to Pliny was once an

his time

Philibert
still

an acropolis,

island.

Before

became united to the mainland by a sandy

it

isthmus.

about 400 feet

On the site of
De Naillac built

the old Greek acropolis

the stately castle which

stands, a sjoecimen of the military architecture

of the

Knights, not less worthy of

study than

the fortress of Rhodes.

The

position of this castle

strength as

known

is

one of great natural

compared with the means of attack

in the

15th century.

It is

surrounded on

three sides by the sea, while on the land side the

rocky nature of the

soil

would have made mining

impossible.

The

castle is entered fi^om the isthmus

by a ramp

cut through the western corner of a glacis of un-

usual

size,

north

side.

widens as

150

it

which forms the outer defence on the

Within

ramp

is

a fosse, which

approaches the sea, having a breadth of

feet in the part

ramp opens

this

into

it.

where the gateway

fi'om the

This end of the fosse

is

pro-

tected by a casemated batteiy to hinder the landing

of troops within the glacis.

This battery has a roof

of solid masonry, gabled externally to prevent the

lodgement of

shells.

The north

side

is

fiu-ther

strengthened by two towers, connected by a curtain

wall and a smaller fosse,
larger fosse.

On

running

parallel to the

the western side which faces the

60

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

harbour the castle

Tvithin

of this

which

is

is

defended by a "wide rampart,

a deep fosse.

It

is

rampart that the hons' heads

Mausoleum

from the

On the eastern and southern

are placed.

sides the external line of defence

Trith a

in the sea face

a curtain-wall,

is

The

strong tower at the south-east corner.

opposite angle on the south-west

platform, with embrasures

protected by a

is

nine

for

guns on the

south and eight on the west.

The entrance

to the castle is thi-ough a series of

seven gateways, to the

first

of which the

ramp

in

After crossing the

the northern glacis leads up.

northern fosse, the road passes through three more

gateways into the sea-rampart of the western

and thence winding through

thi-ee

fosse,

more gateways

finally enters the interior of the fortress at its south-

western angle.

ways

The
to

is

The seventh and

last of these gate-

protected by the platform abeady noticed.

object of so winding an approach

guard against surprises.

within these external

outer and inner bayle.

The

defences

is

was of course

area

contained

an

divided into

In the inner bayle, which

is

the highest ground within the castle, are two lofty

square towers, which form the keep.

The outer

bayle contains the chapel of the Knights.

The two

central towers

seem

to be the earhest

part of the fortress, which was probably built by

instalments, the lines being gi'adually extended

they embraced the whole of the rocky platform.

till

It

was constructed by Henry Schlegelholt, a German

knight, who found in the ruins of the Mausoleum an
ample supply of building materials.

61

IN THE LEVANT.

The masonry

is

tlirougliout in admirable preser-

Since the day

vation.

when

the castle was handed

over to the Mussulman conqueror,

very few

Knights
lies

changes.

arm

still

has undergone

it

The long brass

the batteries, and then' powder

caked up in the magazines.

The Turks change

There

nothing in their fortresses.

is

a magnificent cistern cut in the rock,

few years ago a soldier

dro-mied.
selves to

guns of the

fell

in this castle
full

into

of water.

and was

it

The Turks, instead of troubling themfish the body out, ceased to use the water

of the cistern, regarding

it

as polluted for ever.

Here, as at Rhodes, the stern monotony of military masonry

is

constantly relieved by shields and

inscriptions sculptured on white marble

the walls.
it is

Wherever

and

let into

architectural decoration occvirs,

of the same flamboyant character as at Rhodes.

may still be seen a beautifully carved

now adapted to Mussulman worship.

In the chapel
rood-screen,

In the tower, at the south-east corner,

is

a room

which was probably the refectory of the Knights.

Here, sitting in the wide bays of the windows, they
beguiled the Aveariness of garrison
their

life

names and escutcheons on the

hundred valiant

soldiers of the Cross,

in the glorious annals of the Order,

by carving

walls.

Many

unmentioned

have thus been

preserved fi-om utter oblivion, for the inscriptions

are as fresh as

if

cut yesterday.

Some

of the

names

are Spanish.

This tower was probably erected by Englishmen,

as the

arms of Edward IV., and of the

different

branches of the Plantagenet family, together with

62

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

many
over

other Englisli coats, are sculptm^ed in a

its

1522,

to

Scattered about the castle are the

door.

tlie

arms of

successive captains, ranging from 1437

when

Among

Turks.

row

the garrison
these

the

is

surrendered to the

name

of a well-known

English knight, Sir Thomas Sheffield, with the date

The arms of another Englishman, John

Kendal, who was Turcopolier, 1477 1500, may be
1514.

seen under the Koyal arms, on the tower at the

south-east angle.

The

care with which the Knights fortified their

castle at

Budrum was justified by

the importance of

the position, for without this fortress they would

not have had the complete

command

of the channel

of Cos, and that island and Calymnos would have

been

invasions from the opposite coast of

liable to

Asia Minor.
After examining the castle, I explored part of a
district

called

Kislalik,

The

eastern wall of the city.

road to Mylasa

row

may

lying

just

rally contain

be here distinctly traced by a

built.

modern

These basements gene-

a small vaulted chamber, entered by

two small doorways.

They are wholly

faced with blocks of grey marble.

chral inscriptions are

Turkish houses.
of houses

is

Ijuilt

into

built or

Several sepul-

the walls of the

Immediately to the north of this

a

field

belonging to a Turk

named

Sulunan, where I opened a number of tombs

different kinds.
1.

the

coiu'se of the ancient

of square basements of tombs, on which

Turkish houses are

row

outside

They may be thus

classified

of

Hypogcm., or subterraneous chambers, the largest

IN THE LEVANT.

63

about 17 feet square, and containing two stone

coffins or sori.

the TTwptvog

These

T^iSog

the Greeks at

of the ancients,

Budrum.

long stone beams laid

solid
2.

crete

are built of a volcanic tufa,

called

Trcopl

by

The roof is constructed of

side by side, over which is a

pavement of slabs of tufa.

Vaulted chambers above ground,

built of con-

and rubble, which have been faced with ashlar-

work, and are

now

ceding class had

3. Built

all

tombs

in ruins.

been

These

and the pre-

rifled.

in the earth lined with slabs

covered with thick blocks of tufa.

rally

still

and

They were gene-

about 6 feet 5 inches in length.

never

found anything in them but bones.

Large stone

4.
lids.

coffins

or

sori,

with monolithic

Of these I found two, under a depth of about

3 feet of

soil.

One had a very massive

lid

on

lift-

ing which up, I saw at one end of the coffin a vase

and a bronze cup of very elegant

All trace of the body had disappeared except

lying on

form.

its side,

a fine layer of dust, on examining which I found a

silver

coin

of Chios, placed there as the nauloit.

The vase was an amphora of a

group of Dionysos,
figures

satyrs,

late period

and

female

with a
dancing-

on the obverse, and on the reverse three

youths conversing, painted in red on a black ground.

At

was a smaller one, containing an amphora of the same period, on which

was painted a combat between an Amazon and a
Greek, in red and opaque white on a black ground,
and a small two-handled cup of the kind called
the side of this coffin

Icantharos, painted black.

64

TRAVELS Am) DISCOVERIES

Tombs

5.

made

form of an oblong

iu tlie

of baked red

These troughs were

sm-face.

laid in the earth very near the

They contained no bones

them I found a

trougli, ttus'Kos,

clay, with a separate cover.

silver

coin

in several of

deposited as naulon.

Several of these coins had on the obverse a lion's

head, and on the reverse a trident, and were evidently struck at Halicarnassus, as the same type

found on the copper coins of that

city.^^

Graves lined and roofed with flanged

6.

is

This class of tomb has been met with in

tiles.

many

parts

of the Hellenic world.

Large

7.

the earth.

interment in

and

at

or jars of baked red clay laid in

tt/So*

have already noticed this mode of

my

account of the tombs in the Troad

Calymnos.

Cinerary urns.

8.

Of these

found one placed in

a square hole, each side of which

was formed by a
The

wall built of rouo'h stones without mortar.

urn,

made

of coarse unpainted ware, contained only

bones, and was covered with a rough stone.

9.

Tombs formed

of two slabs placed at an acute

angle so as to form a penthouse roof.

Each

of

these graves was closed by a stone set vertically at

each end.
10.

Graves built of rubble walls sometimes lined

with mortar, and covered with rough

flat stones.

These were only a few inches under the surface of

the

soil.

Greek

One

stele,

early as the

of these graves

had

for its cover a

the inscription on which

is

probably as

time of Alexander the Great.^*

The

rudeness of construction in these gTaves, the absence

THE LEVANT.

IN

65

of Hellenic remains in tliem, and their nearness to

tlie

me

surface, leads

to suppose tliat they are of a

very late period, an opinion confirmed by the dis-

covery of the

stele.

found nothing in these tombs

but very coarse unglazed pottery, three plain bronze

mirrors, two of which were square,

and a few small

objects in the same metal.

Digging

in a field separated

by the road

to

from that of Suliman

Mylasa, I found, about tAvo feet

below the surface, a large diota of coarse earthen-

ware placed upright

was a

this vase

hewn

in the ground.

At the

foot of

built grave covered with slabs of

stone, lying

on which was a bronze simpidum

or sacrificial ladle, which

must have been

left

there

with the diota after the performance of sepulchral

rites, either at

the time of the interment or at some

This grave contained no re-

subsequent period.

mains whatever.
Exploring the district to the south of Kislalik,

found a sepulchral inscription built into the door-

way

of a house, which had evidently been placed

under a statue surmounting an architectural tomb.

Digging

in

front

of this house, I

found several

graves, in one of which were the fragments of a

flageolet {plagianlos),

bronze

made

the mouthpiece was

of bone
still

covered with

entire.

In another

grave was a circular leaden box, about 2 inches

high, and a bronze sjjatula.
site, built

dred small

On
tery,

Another grave on

of loose stone, contained about

vials of

common unglazed

the western side of the city

is

this

two hun-

pottery.

another ceme-

through which the road leading to Myndus

VOL.

IT.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

66

Here are several square baseand concrete, witli an ashlar

facing.
I tried an excavation here, but the soil was
full of springs, and the pottery in the graves had all

must

liave passed.

ments

built of rubble

decayed in consequence.

opened about seven

graves, mostly clay troughs, but found nothing in

them but the

silver coin of Halicarnassus

already

described.

After thus partially exploring the tombs, I

made

several excavations within the walls of the ancient

was dnected by the Turks.

The only one of these sites which promised much
was a field belonoino; to an old Turk called Mehemet
city, in places to

which

Chiaoux, situated near the centre of the town.

Plate

On
Roman

digging here, I came to foimdations

1.)

of the

(See

period, within

black earth containing

which was a layer of

many hundreds

of small

terra-cotta figures, averaging fi'om 5 to 8 inches iu

and coarsely executed.

height,

"With these were

found a scarabeeus of green basalt, a hand from a

female statue in white marble, a long strip of beaten
gold,

and the

bottom of a small marble pyxiK.

I should have been glad to pursue this excavation

further

but as the

could not extend

the crop.

field

my

had been recently

so^mi, I

diggings without destroying

resmne

I therefore determined to

this

excavation on a future visit to Budrum.

had now exhausted the sum placed at my disposal for excavation by Lord Stratford, the firman
had not arrived, and in the mean time I had received
I

Mytilene which rendered

news

fi'om

there

desirable.

I therefore brought

my
my

presence
diggings

IN

Budmira to a

at

"wliere

me

am now

THE LEVANT.

67

and returned to Ehodes,

close,

waiting for a steamer to convey

to Mytilene.

[On

retiirniug to

my

post in April, 185G, I found

a despatch from the Foreign Office waiting for me, in

which I was instructed to proceed at once to Rome,
to value the

Campana

collection,

British Government.

autumn of the same

year,

on leave of absence.
portunity to submit
at

Budrum

the British

to

then offered to the

remained at

when

I took

my views

Rome

went

to

till

the

England

advantage of this opas to further operations

Mr. Panizzi, the principal librarian at

Museum, and through him

to the Earl of

Clarendon, then her Majesty's Secretary for Foreign

Affairs.

I suggested that a firman authorizing the

removal of the lions from the Castle at Budrum

should be obtained from the Porte, and that the

sum

of 2,000, and the services of a ship of

at least six months,

would be necessary

war

for

to insm^e the

recommended that
an officer of the Royal Engineers and four Sappers
should accompany the expedition, to direct any dif-"
success of the expedition.

ficult

I also

engineering operations

and, in order to secure

an accurate record of the excavations,

suggested

that one of the Sappers should be a photogTapher.

These suggestions were at once carried into

effect

by her Majesty's Government, and the small party

of Royal Engineers was further lorovided vnth every
kind of

stoi^es

and appliances from the

which might be needed

such an expedition.

War

Office,

in the varied operations of

68

TKAVEI.S AN11 PI8C0"\"EEIES

The

appointed by the Admiralty for this

sliip

service

special

was her Majesty's

steam-corvette

Gorgon, imder the command of Captain Towsey,

n-itli

a crew of 150 men.

was the

officer sent

Sappers,

who

in

Lieutenant R. M. Smith

command

of the party of

consisted of Corporal William Jenkins,

Corporal B. Spackman, as photographer, and two

Lance-Corporals, one a smith, the other a mason.

The Gorgon

arrived at

Budrum

at the beginning of

November, 1856.]

XXXTI.
BuDRUji, December 14, 1856.

After spending a few days at Constantinople on

my way ovA, I joined the Gorgon at Smp-na, Avhere
It
I found all the staff of the expedition on board.
was satisfactory to find that the numerous requisitions for stores which had been sent in by the "War
Office and the Admiralty had been carefully attended
and that everything which we required for the
expedition had been promptly and punctually supAfter taking in a large stock of pale ale and
plied.

to,

such creature comforts at Smyi-'na,

voyage, and arrived at

Budrum

we resumed our

at the beginning of

November.
had to do on disembarking was
to estabhsh a base of operations on shore, where
our stores might be kept, and where smiths and

The

first

thino- I

We

carpenters might work.

Sahk Bey

slioukl liave

had great

such a phice, had not

clifBculty in finding

friend

69

THE LEVANT.

IN

j^laced his

konak

my

at our disposal in

Here Lieut. Smith and

the kindest manner.

okl

took

up our quarters, with the four Sappers attached to

the expedition.

konak were windowless and

with floors made of thin phmk, through

The rooms
rat-ridden,

in

the

which many a loophole

let in

the north wind fi'om

However, with the aid of double

the street below.

tents, pitched in the courtyard,

wc managed

away very comfortably.

When we had disembarked our

to

stow

ourselves

crowded round us

stores, the natives

examine the wonderful tools

to

and appliances which we had imported from England.

Except at Constantinople and a few great towns
in

Turkey, metallurgy

is

a most neglected

ai't,

and

iron a costly article, imported generally from Russia.

G reat,

therefore,

was the astonishment of the Turks

at the sight of our miners' picks, iron spades, crow-

bars,

and sledge hammers.

Still

more did they

admire the wheelbarrows with wrought-iron wheels,

the trucks which trundle over even Turkish roads

with resistless impetus, like the cars of the ancient

Britons

and the huge tackles and

gesting to their minds

Everything was Marafet, Ghoh

mechanical powers.
.

Marafet.

This word

is

applied to

mechanical ingenuity, and

associated with the

triangles, sug-

unknown and mysterious

name

is

all

masterpieces of

the epithet specially

of Franks.

The magnitude of our preparations of course led

the native mind to the conclusion that we must have

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

70

a superabundance of money, and

my

old

workmen,

them Greeks, kad tke modesty to ask just

double tke wages paid for a day's labonr at Smyi-na.
of

all

Tkese pretensions were speedily reduced wken a

party of

and

fifty sailors

landed with picks and shovels,

in the course of about six hours did as

work

as a Greek

would do

in a

day and a

I then tried the experiment of

and was very weU

satisfied.

much

half.

emplopng Tm^ks,

When

properly treated,

they are most intelHgeut and docile

workmen

not

handy and expeditious as sailors, but their dogged

perseverance makes up for the slowness of their
movements. They have great strength for carrying
heavy weights on their backs. They do not strike
so heavily with the pick as Enghshmen, which is
so

rather an advantage in excavations where antiqui-

The poorer Turks of Budrum are

most of them more or less mariners hence many of

ties are found.

my

labourers have a certain familiarity with ropes

and blocks, which makes them very apt and handy

in learning the use of the triangle. Wages vary from
six to eight piasters a day, according to the

quahty

workman.
No sooner were we ready to commence operations
than I was invited by my old fiiend Mehemet
Chiaoux to resume my diggings in his field. It was
here that the year before I had discovered a great
of the

quantity of small terra-cotta figm*es.

Enlarging the

opening in the ground, I came to a number of foundation-walls,

running at right angles to each other, so

as to enclose small

rooms or

cells.

Within these

foundations I continued to find layers of ten-a-cotta

71

IN THE LEVANT.
figures,

packed

in the soil as if tlioy liad

been de-

Though more than a thousand in all

were discovei'ed, the number of varieties of type did

posited

tliere.

not exceed thirty, of which the following were the

most remarkable

1.

figure either of

Persephone or her priestess,

holding in her arms the pig

sacred to that

[-^oi^og),

deity.

Persephone, draped to the

2.

hand a pomegranate

ftuiit,

her

feet,

left

in her right

resting against

her hip.

A Kunrj^ilioruii,

3.

bearing on her head the iMne,

or sacred basket, used in the worship of Demeter.

4.

Hydroplioros, or draped female figure, carry-

ing a water-pitcher

her

left

5.

(In/drta)

on her head, and

in

hand a phialc.

Demeter, holding

in her left

hand two

ears of

corn.
G.

Gaia Kourotrophos, " Earth the nourisher of

children," holding in her

arms an

7.

Cybele seated, in her lap a

8.

Aphrodite, draped to the

infant.

lion.

feet, in

her right hand

a dove.
9.

Two

varieties

of the

type of Dionysos, one

bearded, the other youthful.

There
ofi'erings.

tions

we

no doul^t that

is

A few yards

all

these were votive

to the east of these founda-

discovered a cube of grey marble, inscribed

with a dedication to Demeter and Proserpine.^'

It

may be

inferred,

from the joint evidence of

this

inscription and the terra-cotta figures, that a temple

dedicated to Ceres, and probably to Proserpine, stood

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

72

on

The foundations among

this site.

whicli I found

the terra-cottas appeared to be those of a vaulted

The

basement.

walls were built chiefly of rubble,

strongly united by grouting; large squared stones,

from some previous Hellenic

e\'idently

From

inserted at intervals.
so

many

figures

edifice,

were

the circumstance that

and lamps of the same type were

discovered within these walls,

it is

probable that this

basement served as a sort of treasury or magazine

where votive

offerings

by the Romans

were kept. Such vaults, called

favissce,

were employed

for

such

pin-poses in ancient temples.

The

field

where

made

these discoveries beino-

planted with fig-trees, I could not extend the excavations sufficiently to ascertain the exact site and

extent of the temple which I assume to have stood

In the next

here.

field to

the west I had

made

small excavation the year before, on the site of a

Byzantine church, in the course of which I laid bare

some portions of a

large

Roman

cornice,

which may

have belonged to the same Temple of Demeter.

I next explored a field, which Captain Spratt has

marked
site for

Here

in the

Admiralty Chart as the most probable

the Mausoleum.
I

found HeUenic foundations enclosed within

the precinct of a Byzantine monastery. Within these

foundations were

many fragments of Greek tessellated

The mosaic was of

workmanship, being composed of small

pavements and painted stucco.

very fine

cubes of white, black, and red marble.

glass

set in a fine

Occasionally

The cubes were beautifully cut and

cement. The iDatterns on these frag-

was used.

IN THE LEVANT.

ments

73

and borders.

Avere simple volutes, sti'ipes,

In

the volutes the eye or centre of the spiral was formed

of

tessclJce,

small by degrees, diminishing in size as

they approached the centre of the

The

diflferent

spiral.

colours were used in broad stripes,

which appear to have been separately inserted as emhlemata in the general surface, and then fixed by thin
laminse of lead, which were rini into the joints between

the colours, and which I found

adhering to them.

still

The patterns on these fragments resemble those found

at Herculaneum, and are much simpler and purer

Koman

pave-

in taste

than the designs of the later

ments.

The fragments of painted stucco found with

these mosaics were remarkable for the freshness of

the colours and the fineness of the stucco, which

composed of pounded white marble

The

plaster.

laid

on a coarser

preservation of the surface of these

fragments was due to the circumstance that the

in

which they were lying was a

A number

was

soil

fine sand.

of architectural mouldings were found,

on which were painted borders in green and umber,

on a white ground, and some pieces of fluted

half-

columns, from 4 inches to 6 inches in diameter, in

white stucco

also thin slices of

the walls inside.

marble for lining

All these fragments had evidently

formed part of the

internal

decoration

of

some

edifice.

dreadful catastrophe has just befallen the town

The inhabitants had hardly recovered

shock of an earthquake, which threw down

of Rhodes.

from the

many

private houses

cations,

when an

and greatly injured the

fortifi-

explosion took place Avhich totally

74

TRAVELS

destroyed the

cliurcli

hundred people.

UISCOVEEIES

-US'D

'

of St. Jolin, and killed several

In the vaults under this church

was a powder magazine, and if the Turks are to be

believed, the explosion was caused in a very singular
manner. The vault of the magazine having been
split

open by the earthquake, a flash of

descended through

the

and

fissure,

lightning-

ignited the

Whether the accident was really so caused,

or whether it was rather due to some gross carelesspowder.

ness on the part of the

officials in

screen themselves from detection,

the tale about the lightning,

it

charge, who, to

may have

is

invented

certain that after

the explosion took place the authorities of the town,

from the Pasha downwards, showed the most utter

The catastrophe occurred

in the evening, about the time when the gates of the
town are closed. As it was known that many persons had been buried under the ruins, the British
helplessness and apathy.

consul,

Mr. Campbell, immediately sent to the Pasha,

begging him to take immediate steps to rescue those

who might be

still alive.

apathy of a Turkish
that night

The Pasha, with the usual

official,

did nothing whatever

and Mr. Campljell, who came

the head of a body of

workmen

to

at once at

give

assist-

ance, was denied admittance at the land gate, and

forced to pull round on a stormy night from the

Quarantine to the sea gate of the gTeat harbour,

running the risk of getting his boat swamped on

the way.

In consequence of these delays,

it

was not

till

eleven o'clock at night that he reached the scene of

the disaster with his men.

Mr. Alfred

Biliotti, at

THE

IN
tlie

head of

nigiit

disinterring

been buried

worked through the

as he could, and suc-

this small party,

by torchlight as well

ceeded iu

75

],EVANT.

several

persons

who had

Among them was

alive.

a young

girl

newly betrothed, and whose lover had

the pleasure

of assisting in restoring her to the

Tm-kish

light of day.

In the morning Mr. Campbell sent again to the

Pasha, stating that his small party of workmen were

now

quite exhausted,

and suggesting that as there

was a Tm-kish ship of war in the

liarljour,

part of

the crew might be sent on shore to assist in clearing

away the

This suggestion Avas partially car-

ruins.

ried out, for a large -pavtj of sailors

were landed soon

ground

cleai-

after,

not

with fixed bayonets

and marines

but to keep the

to dig,
!

hom-s slipped away in this sort of

The precious
trifling

till

the

Pasha had been fairly roused up to act vigorously,

and by that time the chance of finding persons still
alive

under the ruins had become quite hopeless.

XXXVII.
BuDEUM,

After exploring the

experiment in another
it,

field
field

Decejtiber,

of Chiaoux, I

little

to the

1856.

made an
N.W. of

belonging to an old Turk called Hadji Captan.

On

this site

had

Ijeen

found some years ago the

torso of a draped female figure of the lloman period.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

76

when

sent to England

the friezes from the Castle were

removed by Lord Stratford de

On
ment

Redcliffe.'^

digging here, I discovered a tessellated paveat the depth of about three feet

surface

following whicli in various

laid bare

below the

directions,

an area extendins; 119 feet from east to

west, and 89 feet from north to south, and con-

number of rooms. On
room 62 feet by 25^ feet. At the
west end of this room was a picture of Meleager
and Atalanta hunting. This composition was balsisting of the floors of a

the north was a

anced at the east end by a subject on the same scale

Dido

and ^neas hunting.

The

details

costume of these figures were curious.

two pictures were

these

two

each inscribed in a square.

the west end
severally filled

the

up

ano-les

-with

circular

of the

Betn'cen
patterns,

In the square nearest

round the

circle

were

heads representing the four

seasons.

The names of all the fig-ures represented in this

room were written over them. Eound the whole ran
a broad architectural border, formed of the guilloche

In the centre of this room the pavement had

plait.

been broken away, and here, lying on the ground, we

found a draped female torso, in two pieces, without
a head.

This statue

in rapid motion.

To the west
26

feet

sunk

by

is

winged, and the figure

It is very

of this

hard and wiry in

room was a

style.

smaller apartment,

27-| feet, in the centre of

floor, or impliivium,

is

which was a

paved with thin

slices of

marble, laid on a bed of pounded brick and concrete.

Round

this

sunk square was a mosaic representing

TN
lions, bulls, goats,

THE LEVANT.

77

and other animals chasing one

another.

To the west was a room 40

feet wide,

long by 12

feet

running east and west, and terminating

at the west

end in a

At

semicircle.

end was

this

a group representing a naked female figure, pro-

bably Amphitrite, floating amid waves and dolphins.

On

cither side of her

the

of

rest

The

a youthful Triton.

is

j^avement

consisted

of

geometrical

patterns.

At

the north side of this

room was a narrow

I'oom,

14 feet long by 6 feet 3 inches wide. In the pavement were three female busts, each set in a circular
frame.

These busts, as appears from the inscriptions

round them, severally represent the

cities of Hali-

carnassus, Alexandria, and Berytus.

The combina-

tion

may have typified

these three

cities.

a commercial alliance between

The costume

of these busts

is

of

a very late period, and the drawing very coarse.

The pavement
to

room was too much decayed

in this

be taken up.

To the south of these pavements were others on a

lower level. The principal of these pavements consisted of two distinct parts.
On the north was an
oblong passage,

51

feet

long

containing three compartments,

border of medallions.

by 15

wide,

feet

surrounded by a

These compartments con-

tained severally a figure of Dionysos with a panther

Satyr pursuing a

Nymph

or Maenad

Nereid seated on a Hippocamp.

were birds and other animals.

and

In the medallions

South of

this pas-

sage was a rectangular space, 30 feet by 2G

feet.

78
In

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

area were

tliis

the

east,

scene in

represented

is

tlie

Trtntli

foUoATing

a vineyard,

Eros.

pictures
in

lion,

On

wliicli

Pan

panther,

a greyhound, and birds are introduced into this

In the centre of the area were two

scene.

pic-

Europa standing by the Bull, and a waternymph.

To the east of tliis again was a dog pursuing a
hare.
The whole was surrounded by a border of
tures

medallions containing birds.

In the N.W. corner of

been cut away for the

found closed

up.

room the pattern had

insertion of a well, which we
sailor was let down, and
tliis

descended into about three

feet of water,

at the

bottom of which was a deposit of black miid.

Bronze

We
our

Lamp found

in tcell.

baled out the water, and were rewarded for

trouble

by finding

in

the

sediment at

the

bottom a white marble

the
a

jDortrait

79

THE LEVANT.

IN

of some

of the

l^iist

miknown

We

small bronze lamp.

also

Roman

and a small

made

conical

and

found here the

remains of a wooden iKicket, bound

hoops,

period,

individual

oly'cct

with brass

(cuts

of ebony, apparently used in some

a,

h),

game

like

draughts.

The
rock

shaft of this well

the

mouth was

the cover of the well

was cut out of the

solid

square, with a groove into which

fitted.

At the depth of 14

feet

8 inches the shaft was traversed by a gallery cut

in the rock.

This gallery was 6 feet high, and ran

27 feet to the N.B., and 14^ feet to the S.W. of

the well.

At the N.B. end

it

terminated in a small

arched opening, leading upwards, evidently intended

to receive the surface drainage conveyed in earthen

pipes through the

sides the

soil.

On

the

west and south

room was separated by party

walls fi'om a

passage.

The passage on the west side was 61^ feet in length

by 10 feet in width. The pavement was divided
into nine rectangular

metrical patterns,
dolphins.

compartments, containing geo-

ivy-leaves,

birds,

flowers,

and

80

TRAVELS AND PISCOVERIES

In

tlie

centre division

was the

tion, within a laurel wi'eath

follo^ving inscrip-

YriA

ZOH
XAPA
EIPHNH
EYGYMIA
EAniZ
" Health, Life, Joy, Peace, Cheerfulness, Hope," in
black, on a white

ground a very

for the eyes of the ancient

pleasant inscription

owner of this

on as he paced up and down

villa to rest

this corridor.^'^

The passage on the south side was in length 64

The design is the counterfeet by 14|- feet wide.
part of the passage on the north side of this room,

In one compartment a few letters

already described.

of an inscription in black on a white ground,

still

remained.

In some places the pavement was laid on an

ficial level,

of former edifices.
of the

arti-

composed of drums of columns and ruins

In other places the rubble bed

pavement rested on the

"Wliere the

earth.

rock was very near the surface, the rubble bed

was omitted, the rock being used

The

tessellaj

were

chicfl}^

as its substitute.

of marble

brick was,

however, used in the red colour, and in one picture

green glass was employed.
larly cut,

and not

The cubes were

set Avith the precision

which characterize the

irregu-

and neatness

earlier Hellenic mosaic.

When we first laid bare this pavement, the patterns

were nearly concealed by calcareous incrustation,
deposited from the cement of the pavement, as

it

81

THE LEVANT.

IN

had decomposed and oozed througli the tesselte.

On removing this deposit by water and hard scrubbing, the coloiu"S of the patterns gradually came out,

and though the drawing of the

figures

was through-

out very rude and coarse, the effect of the whole

was exceedingly

design, as a piece of colour,

rich

and

harmonious.
Before attempting to take up any of the floors, I

had nearly the whole copied by photograjDhy, in the

following manner
The photographic lens was
:

placed on a portable stage above the pavement, so

as to take a vertical view of a small portion of

and was

shifted

from point to point

whole design had been obtained.

views of the

Notes of the

dif-

were then made on the photographs.

ferent colours

Exact plans of the patterns

made by

tiU

it,

Lieut.

Smith.

in

each room were also

After

Had been

this

all

done, I tried to take up some of the best of the

floors.

The usual mode of taking up mosaic pavement

to glaze canvas

on the upper

bed of plaster of Paris upon

surface,

this.

and

When

to lay a

the bond

of the tesseUge has

been

this applied surface,

the pavement can be

thus

is

by

strengthened

detached from the o^round on which

it

is

rests.

safely

This

usually done by driving a gallery in the earth

below,

and

then

cutting

away

the

heavier part of the bed of the pavement.

commonly

consists of three strata,

lower

and

This bed

a coarse rubble

foundation, a layer of mortar, and a layer of fine

cement, in which the tesselte themselves are fixed.

When
VOL,

the bed
II.

is

in a

sound
G

state,

and can be got

at

82

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

from below, nearly the whole thickness of

may

layers

may

its

lower

The pavement

be detached with safety.

then be taken up in large squares, and being

held together partly by

by the canvas and

upper surface,

will

The pavement

in

its original

cement and partly

plaster of Paris applied to its

bear transport

if carefully

Hadji Captan's

field

on the native rock instead of upon

found impossible to cut
was, moreover, in

many

away

it

entire room,

and then

being laid

earth,

by dividing

in

was

it

fi^om below.

places, in a very

However, I succeeded

state.

packed.

It

unsound

taking up one

into very small squares,

it

them up by a gentle application

the sides. This room was the one

lifting

of leverage at

terminating in an apse, in which was the picture of

Amphitrite surrounded by dolphins.

On

the north side the area which

was bounded by a wall biult of squared

it

may be assumed, was

we uncovered
blocks, which,

the outer wall, as

we

could

no trace of foundations or pavement to the

find

north of

it.

On

the south

we

carried

ovu'

exca-

vations only as far as the pavement extended, but

we

could meet with no boundary-wall on this

On

side.

om'

excavations were arrested by a

Tiu'kish cemetery,

and on the west by the house of

the

east

the proprietor of the

unable to ascertain

how

and we were therefore

the tessellated pavement

field,

far

extended in either of these directions, or what was

the original form and pm'pose of the building to which
it

belonged.
It

is

most probable, however, that a Roman

once stood on this

site.

villa

Several large pieces of cor-

IN

THE LEVANT.

83

nice of a calcareous stone, covered with stucco,

found lying on the pavement, as

from the roof; and

in the

they had fallen

if

courtyard of Hadji Captan

was the base of a Roman column.

The

walls of the

had been lined with a thin veneer

several apartments

of marble, poi'tions of which were

situ

were

remaining in

still

between the wall and the pavement.

From

the character of the inscriptions in the pavements

it

is

probable that

century of our

era.

constructed out

of

building

on

the

appeared to

It

the

same

the

was of the second

villa

matei'ials

of

and

its

site,

seems to have been altered in several

have been

an

own

eai'lier

plan

j)laces after

erection.

Hadji Captan, the proprietor of this

jovial old

field, Avas

Turk, who took the greatest interest in our

He

diggings.

greatly marvelled at the sight of the

strange pictures which had lain concealed under the

soil

of his field for so

many

centuries

but when the

photographer went to work, and we showed Hadji

own

Caj)tan his
side

on the

glass,

and seated be-

greybeai'd, his

most

familiar friend,

portrait

him another

he bes'an to think that we were magicians. So constant

was

his interest in the

watching us in

man caught
soil,

and

all

diggings, that he remained

weathers,

till

at last the poor old

a cold from standing too long on the wet

The doctor

died.

him, and his

life

of the

Gorgon attended

perhaps might have been saved,

but for the utter incapacity of his wife to prepare

nourishing food.

Mussulman
etiquette

is

"In the sick

room the

wife of the

a poor helpless creature, and the rigid

prescribed by Turkish manners

G 2

almost

84

TRAVELS AND DISCOTEKIES

prohibits her from taking her natural place at the

bedside of her husband.

I visited Hadji Captan a few hours before his death.

The room was crowded with

silent

Turks, solemnly waiting for the

moment when

then*

them for

ever.

gi'ey-bearded

old friend would have to take leave of

But the

wife

was concealed

no part whatever

in

an inner room, taking

in the scene.

Hadji Captan was buried in the cemetery of his

own

field,

and our

sailors,

of the Turkish graves,

it.

shocked at the shaUowness

made a neat

Let us hope that his bones

Uttle

may

mound over

rest in peace,

imchstm'bed by the jackal and the wild dog,

who often

seek their food in the cemeteries of Turkish villages,

and the traces of whose recent ravages shock the

Eiu'opean traveller, reminding him of the old legend
of the Ghouls.

XXXVIII.
BuDEUM, Ajnil

10, 1857.

After months of anxiety and weary labour I am

at length able to say that the main object of the
expedition

leum

is

is

for

the

site

of the

Mauso-

no longer a matter of uncertainty.

manner of

its

of the town of

Bey

frilfilled,

The

In the centre
discovery was thus.
Budrum, just above the konak of SaUk

{see Plate 1),

is,

or rather was, a site distin-

guished by nothing very particular, except the fact

that in several places pieces of large Ionic columns

85

THE LEVANT.

IN

of the finest Parian marble were

on

Examining the

surface.

tlio

lying about

still

site

more

the practised eye might observe a certain

irregularity of ground, such as

thrown

closely,
artificial

the case where

is

and

ruins

have been

Ijuried

under the natural accumulation of the

about

afterwards

The site was covered with houses and

of ground divided by modern stone
several places

were drums of

fluted

little

soil.

plots

In

walls.

columns about

3 feet 6 inches in diameter, and of the purest white

marble, and on a close inspection of the walls of

houses

the

and gardens,

perceived

that

here

and there fragments of Ionic architecture of great

beauty were built into the masonry.

then recog-

nized this as the spot noticed by Professor Donald-

Budrum many

son when he visited

years ago.

He,

was struck with the beauty of the architectural

fragments lying about here, and his description of
these remains led me, in my memoir on the Mautoo,

soleum in

184<7, to place its

this very spot.

by

site

conjecturally on

This suggestion was not adopted

either of the distinguished topographers Captain

Spratt or Professor Ross,

who

subsequently visited

Budrum. The latter rejected my theory with the

somewhat contemptuous remark that such notions
showed how useless it was for any one to write
about the topography of a place without personally
visiting
I

it.^^

Notwithstanding these adverse opinions,

was more than ever confirmed

view on visiting the

We know from
in

the

centre

site

itself.

in

my

original

I argued thus

Vitruvius that the Mausoleum stood

of

the

town half-way between the

86

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

and the heights above.

liarboiu'

There

every

is

was an Ionic building of

After a long and laborious survey

reason to beheve that

Parian marble.

of every part of the

it

modern town of Budrum,

no other architectural remains of such beauty

and interest as in this one spot, the central position
find

of which corresponds exactly with the site as marked

out by Vitruvius.

The ground

I decided therefore on digging here.

was divided

into a

a separate owner.

obtained leave

number

of

little plots,

After a great deal of trouble, I

from one

of

them

ground, the one half of his

strip of

each with

dig a

to

little

field.

was on the 1st of January in this year that I

first broke ground on this memorable site.
After
a few spadefuls had been thrown up, I examined
It

the character of the

mould,

was a loose black

It

soil.

of small splinters of fine white marljie

full

The whole appearance of this soil,

and the absence of stratification in it, suggested the
and rubble.

was a recent accumulation, such as

might have taken place in the 400 years which

notion that

it

have elapsed since the building of the castle of

Budrum

by

the

The

Knights.

fi^agments

of

marble were evidently from some Ionic building.

I

collected

them with the greatest

care.

a short time a mutilated leg turned up

evidently from

hopes.
legs

More

and

frieze.

of frieze,

this

till

appeared,
at

always

last

got a

piece of foot with the moulding of the frieze

remaining.

was

began to have vague

bits of sculpture

scraps

After

I at once recognized this to

still

be the

IN THE LEVANT.

moulding of the

frieze

from the Castle, which Lord

Stratford obtained for the British

About the same time that

I

87

Museum

made

in 1846.

this discovery,

happened to be examining a wall near where

was digging, and found that a battered fragment

of a marble lion formed one

From

stones.

of the foundation-

that day I had no doubt that the

Mausoleum was found.

Strange as it may seem to you, the moment of
making this great discovery was not at all one of
great joy and exultation.
I cast a wistful eye on the
site

of the

site

covered with houses and plots of garden land,

each belonging to a separate proprietor, and asked

myself

how

made

the

will

be possible to buy

it

The presence

people out.

j^i'ocess

these

all

of a ship of war, too,

of negotiation

all

the

more

diffi-

was no concealing from the officers

the fact that the site of the Mausoleum

cult, for there

and

sailors

had been discovered; and the intelhgence could

hardly be commimicated to a whole ship's company
as a profovmd secret.

Fortunately, at that time, no

one attached to the expedition, except myself, could

speak three words of Turkish

still

the proprietors

of the houses very soon got an inkling that the

Consul had found something very wonderftil

the

konak of some Padischah who

years

ago.

They

lived 2,000

regulated their tactics accordingly.

After I had dug for some few days on the

strip of soil wliich

little

had been assigned to me, the

proprietor of the field observed to me, that, having

my

now

gratified

there

was nothing, he concluded that

curiosity,

and ascertained that

I

would with-

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

88

draw my workmen. I begged for a few days more

delay, wliieli was granted witli extreme reluctance.
I then made the discovery that the field where I
had noticed the fragment of lion was Vakouf, that is
to say, land held in trust for charitable purposes,

my

good friend Salik Bey was Vakoufji, or

Nothing was easier than to persuade this

and that
trustee.

kind and hospitable gentleman to allow

me

to dig in

Vakouf field. I took down the whole wall in

which I had noticed the fragment of lion, and found
in it five or six drums of Ionic columns of fine Parian
marble, a lion's leg, and a quantity of wrought
this

marble from a Greek building.

I

then got permission to dig a piece of land a little

to the north of

belonging to a third proprietor.

tliis,

After removing the Vakouf wall, I dug down,

and found a

vertical ledge of native rock,

north and south.

I

From

running

the character of the cutting,

saw that the rock had been prepared for the

and from the regidarity of the

reception of a wall

chiselling, there could

Greek work.

be no doiibt that this was

Following the cutting downwards, I

came, at the depth of about 12

at first took to be a

held

pavement
trace

it,

to

what I

pavement composed of

of green stone, 4 feet

strongly

feet,

square and 1

together

by

iron

foot

cramps.

slabs
thick,

This

extended eastward further than I could

for

my

progress was barred at the distance

of about 20 feet by a small house, in which dwelt

an old Turk with

of

soil

between the

I found a

his

wife.

In the naiTOw strip

vertical cutting

drum from

and

this

house

the base of an Ionic column

89

IN THE LEVANT.

turned upside down, several fragments of bases of

beam mtli a

columns, and a marble

mented

had formed one

wliicli

soffit,

On

lacunar of a ceiling.

was

still

riclily

the

side of tlie

a blue pigment

soffit

The colour
Near this

adherino- in large tliick flakes.

was equal

to ultramarine in intensity.

beam were two

orna-

portions of the bodies of lions, cor-

responding in style and scale to those in the Castle.

Though

know

I did not then

running' north

that the vertical cutting

and south was the western margin of

the basement of the Mausoleum, and that the slabs

pavement were the lowest courses

wliich I took for

of the foundations,

it

was

to be presumed,

from the

abundance of large architectural marbles, intermixed

with sculpture, that I was within the precinct of the

tomb

As

itself.

tical cutting,

We

duo;

I advanced eastward from the ver-

more

these remains became

on to within about two

plentiful.'

feet of the

house already mentioned, and foimd that

on a mass of these
this

It

dehrit^.

how

long experience

an Oriental.

how

for

clear,

is

to

I therefore called in to

my

difficult

it

stood

was evident that

house must be bought; but

be managed was not so

it

small

this could

knew from
deal with
aid

my

old

Mehemet Chiaoux, who had so kindly allowed

me to dig in his field, and empowered him to

friend

conduct the negotiation.

not

very

successful,

house stood

in

my way

for

His
the

first

old

attempts were
Tiirk

whose

had a termagant mfe, who

objected strongly to our proceedings.

One day when

we were engaged in an exjDeriment how near to the

foimdations we could venture to dig without under-

00

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

mining
tlirust

tlie

house, a long gaunt

arm was suddenly

through the shutters from within, and a

dis-

cordant female voice screeched out some vmpleasant

Turkish imprecations on our heads.

Mehemet
close to the

who happened

Cliiaoux,

window, with

his

to be standing

back to the house, beat

a hasty retreat, with a very discomposed and uncomfortable expression of countenance. It

some days that he

told

me

was only after

had

that the old lady

taken this opportunity of dropping some burning

down his back, between his shirt and his skin.

Old SuHman, the husband of this formidable dame,

cinders

was a trembling decrepit old man, who, though he

had been a famous wrestler in his day, and could still
tell tales

of the prowess of his youth, stood in bodily

fear of his wife.

'to

In a weak moment he allowed us

dig in his garden

tree,

which

Wliile

down

we soon came

was absolutely necessary

it

we were bargaining

young

to a

fig-

to remove.

for the price of this tree,

came suddenly, having been maliciously undermined by my workmen. Poor old Suliman got a
beating that day, and oiir stalwart sapper, Corporal
it

Jenkins, standing on the edge of a trench, was sud-

denly upset into

it

ignominiously by a well-aimed

blow from a chopping-block,

We

the window.

hvu-led at

all

head from

paid no attention to these

interruptions, but continued to dig on,

length worked

liis

till

little

having at

round Suhman's house, and

left it

standing like an island in a sea of rubble, I thought

the time was

come

for a definite e'er.

parleying, the price

was

old Suliman in his

own

fixed at 20.

After

much

I waited

on

money

in

house, with the

my

91

THE LEVANT.

IN

hand, and fonnd myself in

Mrs. Suliman, who looked

presence of

awfiil

tlie

like the first consin of the

The wrinkles on her mahogany

Bumenides.

were such as Juvenal describes

face

" Quales, umbriferos ubi pandit Tabraca saltus,

In vetula

The poor
sure,

as

scalpit

jam mater simia Vmcca."

man gazed

old

he had never seen

if

"It

not enough

in his

life.

hag.

I immediately swept

is

and withdrew.
effect

wistfully

up

as

!" said

on this trea-

much money
the steni old

my little

heap of gold

This prompt measure had more

than hours of parleying, and I got the house

two days afterwards.

The

space thus obtained

additional

soon dug over, and I was at a loss

ceed.

About

this time

of several galleries

we had made

cut

was

how

very

to pi'o-

the discovery

out of the solid rock, to

which an entrance led from the vertical cutting

which I had

first

discovered.

The big Corporal was

delighted at the discovery of these subterraneous

passages, which brought

some of

his

mining know-

ledge to bear, and in his eagerness to trace

them

out, nearly got suffocated with the foid air they con-

tained.

One

day,

on probing the roof of a gallery

where the rock had been replaced by masonry, he detected a soft place, and his crowbar suddenly finding

way upwards, lifted up the hearthstone of a grave

sententious Turk, who was sitting quietly smoking
his chibouque in his own house.
The astonishment of this respectable gentleman
its

at being so invaded

was great

but he took the

in-

92

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

trusion very good liiimouredly, having a secret desire

to sell

me

liis

galleries, the

house.

Continuing to pursue these

Corporal found that they ramified in

various directions, with shafts at intervals, through

which he took the liberty of poking

his

way upwards

to get fresh air, emerging sometimes in a garden

and

sometimes in a courtyard, much to the terror of the

elder ladies

The

and the diversion of the young ones.

fact was, the galleries

house on the

site.

By

ran under almost every

slow degrees

we

cleared out

the earth with which they were blocked up, in which

we found

great qiiantities of fragments of pottery,

but nothing more.

Wliile this

was going on underground,

to advance eastward from the spot

continued

where I had

first

broken ground, buying the land, yard by yard,

till

was almost wearied out at the petty delays which

stood between me and my hopes.
I continued to
find the same courses of foundation-slabs in various
places.
It was eAadent that they extended over a
very large area, and I could not but conclude that this
area was no other than that of the basement of
the tomb itself. As Phny states that the Mausoleum
was 411 feet in circumference, and that it was
of an oblong form, I calculated that one side must
have been rather more than 100 feet in length.
I

As the

vertical cutting

on the west terminated to

the south in a return where the rock was broken

away, I assumed this to be the S.W. angle of the

building,

in

and measuring

ofi"

100

feet

from

this point

a direction due north, looked about for some

trace of the corresponding or

N.W.

angle.

Such a

PLAN OFSITE
OF
ROUGH

MACS OLEUM

RUBBLE

3""""y

.1

111
1

"s^m
OUADRANGLE

;^n,i..l,.

Siuhir

PAVED

THE

OF

NLARLV

ALL

MAUSOLEUM

OVER

WITH BLOCKS OF GREEN RACiSTONE

U;

-O
'^'^.

a.

-'*-

QsAn

^^

III

Vol 2

IN THE LEVANT,

93

return seemed to be indicated by the form of the

ground a few

feet

beyond.

from the proprietor a small

dug

To my

here.

therefore

slice

this

obtained

and

field,

great joy I came upon a most

and going deeper,

distinct angle cut in the rock,

found within

of his

same fragments of

angle the

architecture, Hons, and other sculpture, as

in the

This angle was 108

places already explored.

feet^^

now saw

distant fi-om the return to the south.

more

foundations

clearly

what

in

were to be looked

for,

form of the biulding.

was a

it

dii^ection

the

and what was the original

Knowing from Pliny

that

longer fi'om east to west than from

little

north to south, I measured off a probable length

for this side,

and went on probing the ground

at length I hit

upon the S.E. angle

of 126* feet from the S.W. angle.

a

row stood on

this line,

which

till

at the distance

Three houses in

after various delays

I succeeded in purchasing.

There remained only the N.B. angle

to complete the plan of the foundations.

to

be fovmd

This coidd,

of com'se, be fixed acciu-ately by measurement to a

particular spot, which

my

road where

now
to

happened

to be in a public

digging was unopposed.

Ha^^ng

traced out the plan of the building, I proceeded

buy up and demolish everything which stood

my wayhouses,
trees,

were

all

garden walls,

swept

fig-trees,

in

almond-

away before my band of

workmen.

On

clearing the entire site, I

discoveries

the

The whole area

Mausoleum

is

made

the following

anciently occupied

a parallelogram, 469 feet in

by
cir-

94

TRAVELS ^VND DISCOVERIES

cumference.

The bed

this

quadrangle

of the

cut out

is

foundations

of the

solid

within

rock to

depths varying from 2 feet to 16 feet below the

surface of the

field,

but always in horizontal

levels.

(See the Plan and Sections, Plates 2, 3.)

In this bed the foundations are

laid, consisting

throughout of slabs of green stone 4

and

1 foot thick,

bound together by

feet square

iron cramps.

In the shallow part of the quadi-angle these slabs

have been removed

in the deeper levels they stOl

remain, sometimes to the number of several courses.

(See Plates

2, 3.)

The whole of the quadrangular area was strewn

with drums of columns, fragments of architecture,
sculpture, and rubble.
The manner in wliich these
were lying about showed that when the Knights of
St. John removed the remains of the Mausoleum to
buUd their castle, the foundation-courses were uprooted

all

but in the very deepest parts

and as a

portion of the basement was cleared to the lowest

com'ses, the heaviest masses of marble were pitched

down into the holes thus formed, so as to be out of

the way of the workmen.
The following are the most important objects which
Ave

have yet discovered

1.

size,

The

torso of an equestrian figm'e of colossal

and in a very

fine

style (Plate 4).

The body

of the horse and the right side of the rider from the

waist to the ancle have been preserved.

left side

the

On

the

the hind-quarters of the horse and legs of

man have been broken away

blows of a sledge-hammer.

We

piecemeal, by

found some of the

^'//'l

]f

Via-.

o
en

J1

<f)

K-.

S*3

IN

pieces thus broken

95

THE LEVANT.

away

a garden-wall close to

in

the spot where the torso was lying.

2.

The

torso of a seated male

waist to the knees.

back

is left

This figure

figiu-e,

draped.

is

much

The

showing that the statue originally

flat,

This torso

stood in a niche or against a wall.

is

from the

The drapery

mutilated.

very finely

is

composed.
3.

Part of the chest of a di-aped

figure, pro-

This and the preceding torso are of

bably female.
colossal size.
4.

For a

lone-

had begun the ex-

time after I

cavations, only very small fragments of the fiieze

were found

having nearly cleared out

tUl at length,

the whole quadrangle, I had almost given up the

hope of meeting with an entire

after

obtainmg possession of the

slab.

However,

luie of

houses on

the eastern side, I came suddenly one day on an

entu'e slab of
it

over, a

lying on

its

face.

On

turning

most beautifid figure of a mounted Amazon

presented

very

fi'ieze

itself;

the sm-face of the marble being in

condition

fine

(Plate

5).

One general

ex-

pression of wonder and admiration burst forth from

my

the lips of

Turkish workmen when they beheld

or " girl," as they called this figure.

the " kiz,"

It

was the

time that they had

first

hkeness in anything wliich

Very near
6 feet long
length.

the

fairly

this piece of fi'ieze I

and soon

after,

recognized

had discovered.
found another,

two more of the same

Three of these slabs were lying iinder

foundations

downwards.

of the

houses,

with their faces

Considering the height fi'om which

96

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

they must liave

escaped with so

fallen,

is

wonderful that they

same

series as the slabs of

it

little injury.

All four belong to the

removed from the Castle

frieze

in

the circumstance that they were

eastern side of the quadrangle,

it

From

1846.

all

found on the

is

probable that

they originally decorated that side of the Mausoleum;

and

in that case these four slabs

must

certainly have

been the work of Scopas, whose sculptm'es, Pliny

tells us,

were on the eastern

front.

As he was unquestionably the most renowned

of

was perhaps on that

account that the front was assigned to him because,
so far as we know of the arrangement of Greek

the four artists employed,

it

temples, the

eastern

end was always considered

more sacred than the western, which was

often an

ojjlstJiodumos.
6.

An immense number

of architectural fragments

have been found, out of which nearly the entire

order

may be

On comparing

reconstructed.

details of the architecture

the

with those of the Temple

of Athene at Priene, published in the Ionian Antiquities of the

Dilettauti

Society, I found a

most

remarkable resemblance throughout.

We

know from an

inscription

that the Priene

temple was finished by Alexander the Great, after

he had conquered Asia Minor.

It

may

therefore

have been commenced about the time when the

Mausoleum was built, and was probably the work

of the same architect, Pythios.*^
In the Mausoleum, in the temple at Priene, and
that at Branchidge,

we have

three most interesting

**

Pktt

Vol. 2.

AMAZON

FROM FRIEZE OF MAUSOLEUM

S.

97

IN THE LEVANT.

examples of the Asiatic Ionic,

wliicli, in ricluiess

ornament and delicacy of execution,

clialleuge

comparison

Ionic order, as

On

the

we

see

may

of

justly

witli tlie Attic variety of the

it

in

the Ereclitheum.

west side of the quadrangular cutting,

near the 8.W. corner, I discovered a flight of steps,

twelve in number, and 30 feet wide, terminating
VOL.

II.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES

98

on a

level

At the

with the lowest coiu'se of the foundations.

distance of 26 feet to the east of the foot

steps

was an immense block weighing

about ten tons.

This block rested on two slabs of

of these

Avhite marble, and,

on being tiu'ned over bj the aid

of two screwjacks,

it

fully

to have been care-

adjusted to the slabs below

manner.
fixed,

was found

the following

In the great stone bronze dowels were

corresponding in position with bronze sockslabs.

The accompanying

cuts, a, h, give the perspective

view and section of

ets let into the

marble

one of these dowels within a bronze collar, which

was fixed in the great stone with lead. Doubtless
it

was intended by the

this stone the

architect that on lowering

dowels should drop out of then- collars

into the sockets

below

but, whether thi'ough acci-

dent ov fraud, they appear to have remained in the

THE LEVANT.

IN

collars instead of

had been

tliey

99

descending into

holes to wliicla

may be

This

fitted.

tlie

seen by ex-

amining the ends of these dowels, which are united

by a strong patina.
Perhaps the workmen employed on this operation
all

round the edge to the

purposely contrived that

collars

it

should be incomplete, with

the same motive as actuated the

l^uilder of the trea-

sury of the Egyptian king Rhampsinitus, rcsjoecting

which Herodotus gives such an amusing anecdote.'"

On

each side of the great stone was a rerebate, or

return, affording a groove into which the stones of

the adjacent wall

was

It

fitted.

evident, therefore,

that the great stone had been lowered into

like

its

place

a portcullis, and then wedged in by stones on

each side.

Between

this great stone

and the foot of

the stair I found several alabaster jars, such as the

ancients used for unguents, and which were called

Near the jars were found some bones of

oxen, and two or three small terra-cottas, among
alahasta.

whicli

was a female head of

From

the peculiar

stone was fitted into

manner
its place,

tively to the staircase, I

it

exquisite beauty.

am

in

and

which the great

its

position rela-

inclined to think that

originally closed the entrance into the sepulchre,

having been lowered into

Mausolus had been

place.

its

place after the

deposited in

This opiiiiou

is

its

body of

last resting-

confirmed by the discovery

of the alabaster jars between the foot of the stair

and the great stone

for

we know

that such vases

mourners, after libations to tlie dead had been made from

them. This may be seen on Greek vases, on which
were deposited at the entrance to toml)s

H 2

Ijy

100

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

the visit of Electi'a

and

my

tomb

tlie

Ao-amemnon

of

sepulchral subjects arc represented.

otliei"

On

to

examining one of the aJahasta I found on

to

great surprise an inscription in cuneiform and

On

hieroglyphic characters.
tion being sent to

London,

it

a copy of this inscrip-

was

at once recognized

by Mr. Birch and Sir Henry Rawlinson

\\nth

as identical

one vrhich occurs on a similar alahaston found

and now

in Greece,

in the

Bibliotheque at Paris.

Both the hieroglyphic and cuneiform

recite the

name and

was an

jar

it

titles

heirloom

of Xerxes.

preserved

inscriptions

Perhaps this

in the family of

Hekatomnos from the time of Xerxes, and

as a precious gift

departed

name

by Artemisia

lord.

third

to the

alahaston

offered

inanes of her

bearing the

of Xerxes, together with fragments of three

more, was found by Mr. Loftus in excavations at

Susa

and

in the Treasury of St.

Mark

at

Venice

manner with
The custom of
the name and title of Artaxerxes.
reio-uing
monarch on
inscribino- the name of the
is

a porph}Ty vase, inscribed in like

alahasta

was probably borrowed from Egypt, where

such vases have been found inscribed with the name

of Pharaoh Neco,

who

reigned B.C. 609, and with

those of other monarchs of the 26th dynasty.*'"

While we were making these discoveries on the

site of the

Mausoleum, we were anxiously waitmg

for the firman

empowering me

to take possession of

the hons which I had discovered in the Castle last

year.
this

Unavoidable delays prevented the granting of

document

mandant of the

and

in

the

mean time

the

Com-

Castle suddenlv received orders from

THE LEVANT.

IN

the Turkisli Ministei" of

the walls and send

no time

in

War

them

to

lUl

remove the

lions

to Constantinople.

from

He lost

putting this order in execution, and before

many days had

elapsed two of the finest lions were

extracted from the walls.

was not a pleasant sight

It

for us to see this operation

very eyes, after

we had

performed under our

l:)rought spars for scaffolding

manner of means and appliances foi' the

however I gulped down my morexpress purpose
tification as well as I could, and despatched two
letters, one by sea, the other by a swift overland
runner, to Smyrna, to apprise Lord Stratford that
the Turkish Minister of War was trying to steal a
march on us. My messenger sped on night and day;
and the Commandant pushed on with his work no
less expeditiously.
Two moi^e lions were soon dug
out of the walls. The extraction of two of my eyeand

all

me

teeth could not have given

^^laen the

Commandant had removed

my

paid a formal visit to

all

so great a pang,

four lions, he

diggings, accompanied by

the princi})al Turks in Budrum.

"

You have found nothing but

see,"

lie said,

with an

we were digging up

air of

little

triumph.

fi'agments I

At

that time

small fi'agments of lions'

tails,

with an occasional leg or hind-quarter, but no heads.

I endured his civil impertinence for about a quarter

of an hoiu-,

till

at last

my inward

in a strong expression or

to Captain

what
of

my

Towsey.

had said

two

chafing found vent

in English, addressed

The Turks

did not understand

but guessed from the expression

countenance what was passing in

and withdrew

mth many ironical

my

mind,

compliments. That

102

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

same day, the

lions

having been duly swathed in

raw sheepskins, were placed on board a caique to

be sent over to Cos, where they were to be tranship]3ed by steamer to Constantinople.
I had a
took
of
them,
and
a last
photograph made of two
fond look at these precious remains of the school of

The

Scopas.

me, was to

caique, as the

sail

Commandant informed

that night, and I went to bed sick at

was the end of a great hope.

At 4 a.m. the next morning I was suddenly
roused fi'om my sleep by the voice of a midshipman
heart.

It

" The Swallow

from the Gorgon.

is

come

in

from

Constantinople, and the officer of the watch thinks

that the firman

is

on board."

had had so many

disappointments about the firman, that I received

news with sceptical indifierence, and doggedly

fell asleep agam.
At G a.m. another messenger fi'om
" The captain wants to
the Gorgon woke me up.
I hurried on board, and
see you immediately."
this

found Towsey pacing the quarter-deck impatiently,

his gig alongside, ready

"Why

manned.

have you been so long?" he

is come."
" Of what use

said,

" the

firman

is

the firman

now ?

" I answered,

very sulkily ; " the lions are gone."

" The caique is still in the harbour,"

" waiting for a

fair

wind

to

come

out,

he

said,

and we arc

yet in time."
I

jumped

into the boat without a

word more

a few vigorous strokes brought us into the har-

bom\

The captain of the caique was drawing

his little

mooring

lines in a lazy, sleepy sort of

in

way.

IN THE

On
an

the pier-head stood the doctor of the Quarautiue,

Italian,

" Don't
a

103

r,EVANT.

who took

he replied

"I have

and he cannot leave -without

walked

to see the

diggings.

" I have

the lions."

"It is all right,"

We

oui-

let that caiqne go," I cried ont

fii'inan for

still,

great interest in

my

his papers

signature."

straight into the Castle,

and asked

Very much astonished he

Commandant.

was

at so early a visit from the Captaui

sliip

of

hardly

He had

war and the Consul.

emerged

fi-om

his

We

lit.

mad Enghshmen

of an Oriental

Icleff

his

evidently just
iiurr/iiileh

was

had boarded him with that indecent

haste with which

vade the

and

i/ortjan,

of the

occasionally in-

when any real emergency

occurs, without waiting for the due interchange of

complunents.

mornmg,

After

put the

that air of cool

hastily

firman

seldom astonished

was

sealed

was
lions

but

really discomposed.

several times.
;

into

his

with which a whist-

satisfaction

player trumps an ace on the

him good
hand with

wishing

first

Turks are

round.

my friend the Commandant

He read the firman through

The document was duly signed and

the wording of this writ of habeas coriyns

so precise that there

were to be delivered to

walls or already

it.

The

still

in the

was no evading

me whether

embai'ked.

Suddenly a bright

thought struck the Commandant.

" The firman," quoth he, " makes mention of
aslanlar

lions,

but the animals in the walls of the Castle

are leopards, caplanlar.'^

" Come, come, dostonm,

lanlar or caplanlar,

my

fiiend,"

I said, " as-

you know very well what are the

101

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

beasts

meant by

firman,

tlie

and wliere

to find them.

and no others."
" But," said the Commandant, suddenly shifting
the ground of his objections, " who is to pay me for
I claim those beasts,

the expenses I have incurred

to

me by

the Porte

The allowance made

so small that the outlay for

is

removing the hons has been made

out of

"

my own

pocket."

Make your mind

said

" I

am

iu a great measui'e

quite easy

ordered

to

on that subject," I

pay

all

the

expenses

incurred."

"

And

the caique,

who

is

to pay that ?

"

" I pay the caique too."

The lions were forthwith handed over

the Commandant reimbursed.

to me,

and

In consideration of the trouble he had had, and

the courteous and

manner in which he had

handsome gratiuty
He was so touched
expenses.

oblio-iuo;

behaved, I presented liim with a

over and above his

my

with

generosity, that he let

me

head not specified in the firman.

take a leopard's

This was set in a

battlement over the gateway leading into the Castle,

and probably came from the Mausoleum. It is on a

smaller scale than the lions, and much decayed, but
in a

good

style.

In the narrative of our excavations at the Mauso-

leum

I have already

noticed the discovery of the

We have

hind-quarters of Hons.
of these hind-quarters

and from

foimd about seven

their perfect cor-

respondence in style and scale with the heads from

them
Museum, be

the Castle, I have great hopes that some of

may, on

their arrival

at

the British

105

THK LEVANT.

IN

many

readjusted, after having been severed for so

centuries.

The

some of the portions

the ground is in the finest

surface of

which have been lying

in

condition, retaining in one instance the original dun-

red colour with which the marble had been painted.

The heads from the Castle have

deal from exposure to the sea spray

XXXIX.

and

to rain.

'

BaDiiUM,

The

good

suffered a

other day I went with Captain

the wrestlers at a Turkish wedding

May

-J,

Towsey

1857.

to see

have often

heard of this exhibition, but never had the opportunity of seeing

it

in his gig,

The

effect

before.

burning two blue

was

It

took place about nine

the Captain came from the Gorgon

o'clock at night

fine

lights,

one at each bow.

and astonished the Turks.

We

were received on the quay with great lionour, and

marched along to the wrestling-ground, preceded

by a band of Turkish music aiid by brandished pine
torches.

We

entered a

large

beheld a scene which transported

the ancient world.
funeral
all

garden,

me

where

suddenly into

thought I was looking on the

games of Patroclus or Hector. On the ground

around the arena were seated the male part of the

Mussulman population of Budrum. This constituted

the pit. Above
on garden-walls, at windows, and on
house-tops, were roAVS upon rows of veiled ladies,
piled up on the roofs and detached against the blue

TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

106
sky

stars
filled

^but

such stars

lit

with blazing pine torches.

The

who

up by the moon and

and by two immense braziers

the whole scene was

wrestlers were introduced

by an old man,

held in his hand a white wand, not unlike the

Paidotribes,

who

is

always represented in attendance

in the pictures of athletic contests

on Greek vases.

This old gentleman ushered in each pair with a short

or long speech according to their merits, and stood

by as bottle-holder.

The men were stripped all but a girdle round

the loins.
The first combatant who entered the
arena knelt on one knee

till

his antagonist arrived

both were then placed side by side in an amicable

manner by the

old

herald,

who then

one side watching to enforce

athletes

generally

walked

fair

retired

on

The two
the arena two

play.

round

or three times, as a panther does in a cage, each

intent on his antagonist's movements.
face to face, they

went

Then

tui'niug

to work, first stooping to

get some dust from the gi'ound on then' hands, and

then slapping their thighs.

difi"erent

fi'om

our English

The

was very
The com-

Ava-estling

wrestling.

batants leant so far forward that tripping up and

close

hugging were very

The main

difficult.

object

good grip of the antagonist roimd the

Seeing
waist, and to get his head under the chest.
the struggle contmue on the ground after a pair of

was

to get a

wrestlers
to

had closed and

know what
fall

was rather puzzled

constituted ^dctory,

that the adversary

other

fallen, I

counts.

till

I perceived

must be thrown on the hack no

Tremendous were the stniggles on

IN

the ground

the

tening with

many

oil

107

THE LEVANT.

supple

hmbs

of the wrestlers glis-

and Avrithed, producing

that famous group in the

interlaced

a symplegvia, like

Wonderful was the rapidity

Tribune at Florence.

and dexterity of the manoeuvres employed. In the

heat of the struggle the pair woidd roll over and
over out of the ring into the crowd of spectators,

deranging carpets and upsetting lighted chibouques

and

which they

amongst

rolled.

time the old herald would pour water

All this

down

recking the burning ashes

little

on

their thirsty throats, while they lay panting

Suddenly the better wrestler, flinging

the ground.

with one mighty effort his antagonist on his back,

would break from

his gi'asp,

and stand erect amid

the shouts of the spectators.

Then the defeated

hero arose from

each

mother

earth

lifted

his

antagonist up in the air once in turn, in token of

amity, and then 'with arms

fraternally

round their waists, they walked

all

interlaced

round the

ring,

who took the

The ladies Avere

receiving the largess of the spectators,

keenest interest in the contest.

mute, but not unconscious witnesses.

they were not bad
according to their

The

me

earliei'

critics

way

of physical

of regarding

I dare say
perfection,

it.

pairs of Avrestlers rather disappointed

as to form, but those reserved for the close of the

spectacle were the finest

upwards of
pards,

and

six feet high,

in

men

have ever seen

supple and agile as leo-

admirable condition.

He who would

appreciate the wonderful beauty of the form of man,

as distinguished

from that of

all

other animals.

108

TRAVELS ANli DlSCOVEIilES

should study these Turkish wrestlers in Asia Minor.

I

have seen nothing so tridy

The wedding
series

classical in the

Levant.

lasted several days, during which a

of feasts were kept up with the rude and

lavish hospitality which

customary among the

is

Turks on such occasions.

The

cost of such a wedding, at

reckonedatabout100.

Budrum,

liired to

arisen in the

play antics

mind

heard

An amusing-incident occurred

A baboon had

in the course of the entertainments.

been

but some doubts having

of the Cadi whether such an

exhibition were perfectly orthodox according to the

Koran, the animal was not permitted to appear in

public for several days, during which the Cadi considted his books, finally disposing of his conscientious
scruples

by ordering the baboon to be clothed in a

after which he was allowed to

pair of breeches,

perform his part in the entertainment.

XL.
Budrum, June

25, 1857.

north side of the Mausoleum, the hne of

cutting which marks the limit of the Quadrangle is
not continuous, as on the three other sides, but
0-\ the

a few feet from the

N.W. angle

a break

which the

in the rock, extending for 59 feet, after

cutting

is

resumed.

has failed has been

line of the

Tliis space,
filled

Quadrangle

is

in with

occurs

where the rock

earth,

and the

marked by three

piers,

IX

109

THE LEVANT.

carelessly built, of l^locks of native rock,

and placed

there apparently to give greater solidity to the soil

here

(See Plates 3, 4.)

filled in.

Digging on bej^ond

modern wall of

this line, I

was stopped

l)y

loose rubble, running in fi'ont of a

Turkish house, and marking the boundary of a fresh

As

property.

Mausoleum,

this wall

full

of fii'agments of the

asked the permission of the owner of

the house to take

north in

was

it

down and

to dig a little further

This worthy man, an

of his house.

fi'ont

Imam, looked at me \\ath a wistful expression, and

They toll mo you are a man who, whon once
you get yoiu" foot into a field, contrive to got your
whole body in after it." However, after a little
said, "

hesitation, he gave

me

leave to dig a strip six feet

wide inside his boundary

forthwith.

Built

into

wall,

which we demolished

base was the

its

tail

of a

Digging below the

colossal horse in white marble.

foundations of this rubltle wall, I came to an ancient

wall, built of large lilocks of white

jointed, rather

top of this

had

Avail

intact

was a

six feet in height.

was
the

tail

were broken

in the finest condition,

tongue,

On

the

lion resting, apparently as

His legs and

fallen.

the body

more than

marble beautifully

Avhon

first

he

but

off,

and the head

discovered,

was

painted bi-ight red.

Behind

this wall to the north

was a mass of large

marble slabs, lying piled one over the other in the

earth.

After removing the uppermost of these,

saw underneath them the

We

folds of a

we

draped torso.

got this out safely, though the operation was a

perilous one,

on account of the weight of the super-

110

TRAVELS AND DISCOYERIES

incumbent

Then

slabs.

appeared

male

liead

broken in three pieces, another draped torso, and a

singiUar

mass of marble "with a piece of bronze

some study, I perceived to

attached, which, after

be the half of the head of a colossal horse.

I at

once

assumed as certain that I had got upon the track of the

famous quadriga, which, as Phny teUs us, sm-mounted

The

the Mausoleum, crowning the Pyramid.

proved that I was

right.

We dug on, getting out every

instant fi-agments of statues and of lions,

came
off

to the hinder half of

strip of

this great

ground where

undug portion

in the

at last

we

joint,

and measuring

six feet fi^om the root of his tail to this

Half of

joint.

till

an enormous horse, cut

behind the shoulder by a

upwards of

result

had no right

had leave to

lay in the

dig,

and half

of the field beyond^ where I

I expected that the

Imam

this opportunity to exact a

heavy

to encroach.

would have taken

mass of marble

on his domain, but fortu-

fine for further trespass

nately I had to deal in this instance with a liberally

minded man, who disdained to take petty advantages so we had full permission to clear the ground
;

all

round the great horse, so

over his body.

as to plant our triangle

After being duly hauled out, he was

placed on a sledge and dragged to the shore by 80

Turkish workmen.

we went along

On

the walls and house-tops as

sat the

veiled ladies

They had never seen anything

of Budruni.

so big before,

and

the sight overcame the reserve imposed on them by

Turkish etiquette.

The

ladies

of Troy gazing at

the wooden horse as he entered at the breach, could

not have been more astonished.

IN

Ill

THE LEVANT.

We

dug on, and about 12 feet to the east of the

place where the big horse was lying, I found the
other half of a similar horse's body, broken off at the

After

ears.

tliis

Ave

found one of his hoofs placed

In the same strip of ground was

on a massive base.

a head, prol^ably of Apollo, broken into three pieces,

and another hon.

Having made such remarkable

little strip

discoveries in this

Imam's
The price

of ground, I at once purchased the

house, and one adjoining

it

on the

east.

of the two was at least three times their intrinsic

value

but the ground was

so

promising that I

thought the sum asked not uiu'easonable.

After

demolishing the house to the east of the Imam's, I

found in

fi'ont

of

it

the other

head with the bronze

part

of

male

bit still in the

colossal

head,

general type, of the features

trait treated in

half of the horse's

is

mouth, and

which

from the

evidently

a por-

an ideal manner, and probably that

ofMausolus himself (Plate

G).

Close to this was

112

TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

of a bearded

pai^t

head, split off in like manner,

so that three qnai-ters of the face have been pre-

served.

It

is

of heroic size

which remains

is

the portion of the face

in the finest condition.

Under the Imam's house

and

built into the

with a

veil falling

I found a draped torso,

chimney a colossal female head,

from the back of the head.

surface of this head

Pursuing the

Imam's house,

was nearly destroyed by

line of
I

Round

fire.

marble wall to the west of the

came

to a

colossal

(Plate 7) lying in the earth, about

the wall.

The

the face

is

two

female head
feet

north of

a triple row of curls

symmetrically arranged, each curl forming a perfect

volute.

This head

is

remarkable for the large-

ness and simplicity of treatment, and the pathos

of the expression.
ideal,

The

cast

of features,

does not recall any of the

known

though
types of

goddesses.

When

this great discovery of sculptures took place

we had almost exhausted our

making

cases,

stock of timber for

and the hold of the Gorgon was

full.
But the resources of a ship of
war are manifold. Though we had no more packingcases, Captain Towsey supplied me with a number
of empty casks, in which many hundred fragments of
sculpture and architecture were safely stowed, each

already nearly

fragment being separately enveloped

in a piece of old

hammock or bread-bag to jjrevent friction.

way we disposed of all except the very large
The draped

torsoes, found in the

Imam's

In this
marbles.

field,

being

very liable to injmy from the deep undercutting of

the folds, were carefully padded with tow, and then

Vol

FUte7
2,

.,-*wi.#fe-

- ^

FEMMF.
:.,i!J

ri'i-

HEAD

NORIHSRI PERIBOLOS

WALL. MAUSOLLU

I'

113

IN THE LEVANT.

swathed in a covering of old liammooks, tlien tiglitly

corded, so as to resemble mummies, and in tliis condition they -were stowed one

bread-room.

were

on the other

The two portions of

colossal horses

too large to get into the hold at

therefore fixed on

tlie

in the

and were

all,

upper deck, being protected

from the weather by a covering of canvas. In this

way we managed to stow in the Gorgon 218 packages
of various kinds.

We

had just time to accomplish this when the

Supply arrived, which Lord Clarendon had, witli
timely forethought, sent to our assistance, as soon

news of our recent discoveries.

arrangement the Gorgon was released from

as he received

By this

further attendance on the expedition, and

is

now on

her

way

left

us yesterday,and I took leave of my ffiend Captain

to

England with her precious cargo.

Towsey with

real regret, for all

through ray many

troubles and difBculties here, he has been

stay and sheet anchor, superintending

tions in which his
less vigilance,

that for

all

men were concerned

and taking a thorough

enterprise fi'om its

She

commencement.

my

main-

the opera-

with cease-

interest in the

When

I think

months past we have had a party of fifty sailors

on shore, and that during

fi'om the ship constantly

all this

time they have been on excellent terms with

the mhabitants of

Budrum,

the tact and discretion of a

men

so well in

hand

interposition checked

I cannot but appreciate

commander who kept

and who by

skilful

quarrels

all

his

and timely

antl grievances

before they ripened into sei'ious causes of misimderstanding.

VOL.

II.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

114

The Supply
more suited for

4s

a steam store-sliip, very mucli

this special service

as her hatchways are

much

of her hold such that,

and the capacity

larger,

her

commander,

assures me,

would

it.

have received a most kind and encouraging

from Lord Clarendon, authorizing
espenditure that

my

tion of

[It

Mr.

no number of Mausoleimas
She has a crew of forty men. I

Balliston,
fill

as

than the Grorgon,

may be

me

letter

no

to spare

requisite for the comple-

work.
not be out of place here to give some

may

description

the

of

sculptures

and

architectural

marbles sent home in the Gorgon, which, of com-se,

could not be properly studied and appreciated tiU

the

many broken

British

Museum.

23arts

had been rejoined

at the

Of these the most remarkable

is

the colossal statue generally considered to be that

of Mausolus himself (Plates 8, 9), which has been

put together from

sixty-five separate fi'agments, all

of which were found behind the marble wall (see

ante, p. 110).

It

wiU be seen that the head

belongs to this figure.

thouo-h

treated

in

It is evidently

(Plate 6)

a portrait,

The

an ideal manner.

cast

of features resembles, so far as I know, no other

The
met with in Hellenic art.
hair springing upwards from the forehead falls in
and a fragthick waves on each side of the face
ment recently identified shows that it must have
type

to

be

descended nearly to the shoulders

the beard

is

the face square and massive, with

somewhat shorter and broader than

short and close

proportions

;*'

Vol

P]ate 8
?.

SI-

M AU

SOLU

S,

FOUND UNDER PVRAMID

MAU SOLEU

lo/idon PuT)lijlu?il>y I'^T

oTEPS-

M.

S^.. litF'

l/i

die Qacai

Vol 2

^.^tU/i<r/l:

'/.

iieZ.

MAUSOLUSSIDfi VIEW.

London Pablisted bv DivS:

Son.IitH'l^ to

tin?

Qnea;

A' rA^/i'i'/. 'JMi/.^o.

115

IN THE LEVANT.

those usually observed in Greek art

the eyes, deep-

set under overhans-inof brows, have a

jestic gaze

mouth

the

calm about the

lips,

is

in the

indicating decision of character

The form

is

that of a

is

prime of life.

This figure

which

formed, with a set

ivell

and the habit of command.

man

and ma-

full

draped in an ample mantle, under

is

As both arms

a chiton.

are wanting from

the shoulders, the original action can only be matter

of conjecture

and the

raised,
it

but as the

on the back,

folds of the

am

left

shoulder

is

little

drapery drawn towards

inclined to think that the left

hand was slightly advanced, resting on a sceptre.

The drapery is grandly composed, and the majestic
.

very well with the

aspect of the figure accords

which

description

Mausolus

made

is

to

give

of

" I was,"

himself in one of Lucian's Dialogues.''^

he says, addressing Diogenes, " a

man, and formidable

in war."

tall handsome
The height of this

statue is 9 feet 9^ inches without

.

its

plinth

Intermixed with the sixty-five fi^agments of the

statue of Mausolus were found in the

Imam's

field

the fragments of a female figure on the same colossal

scale, of

which a view

is

of this figure has l^een identified since

the

Budrum

expedition

was published.

tunately so mutilated that very httle

Round

features.
in a formal

])eplos,

row of

is

is left

curls, rather smaller

of the head

which

It is unfor-

the forehead the hair

of the head described ante, p. 112.

The back

The head
my work on

given, Plate 10.

is

is

of the

arranged

than those

{See Plate 7.)

covered with a mantle or

wound round

the body in rich folds.

116

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

and gathered

iu beneatli the left arm.

garment

cliiton

sleeves

is

fastened on

fulness of form

The under

reaching to the
the

and the

arm
slight

-with

feet,

having

studs.

The
bosom

droop of the

indicate mature age.

In this statue and that of Mausolus sreat

skill

has been shown in the treatment of the drapery, in

which a general breadth and grandeiir of

effect is

combined with extraordinary refinement and delicacy

Each

of execution.

and wrought

fold is traced

to its full depth

home

to its oriadn

a master hand has

passed over the whole surface, leaving no sign of

that slurred and careless treatment which characterizes the specious

period.

and

is

One

and meretricious

foot of this statue has

art of a later

been preserved,

an exquisite specimen of sculpture, the more

valuable because, in the few statues from the best

Greek schools which we possess, the extremities are

generally wanting.
I suppose this figure to have

been a goddess

standing by the side of Mausolus in the quadriga,

and acting as

his charioteer, just as in the

dedicated by the CyrenEeans at Delphi, their

gTOup

King

Battus was represented in a chariot driven by the

nymph
ing

Cyrene, while Libya was personified crown-

him.'^

In

like

manner, when Pisistratus

re-

entered Athens after his expidsion, he imposed on

the religious feelings of his countrymen

ing in a chariot driven by a

by appear-

woman named

Phye, of

remarkable stature, whoin he had the audacity to

dress ujj in the panoply and costume of Athene,

and who personated the goddess so well that the

Athenians, if Herodotus is to be believed, were

PUtclO

r^tiifPtd,.'hclcy

FEMALE FIGURE
FOUND UNDER PYRAMID STEPSM AU SOLEUM.

lomtai PublisliciVDayS:

Soii.lat}'to Oic

ILIW -co)

Oacm

117

IN THE LEVANT.
If Maiisohis

completely deceived.
stood

figure

of

in

tlie

quadrhja

and the female

on

summit

tlie

p_yramid, the chariot group probably repre-

tlie

sented Mausolus himself, conducted to heaven by

the deity whose special protection he had enjoyed
in

and who therefore would act as charioteer.

thus that on a number of Greek fictile vases

life,

It is

the introduction of Herakles to

Olympus

repre-

is

sented by a chariot group, in which the hero stands

in a

quadriga driven by his tutelary goddess Athene,

and accompanied by Hermes and other

quadruja was

symbol of

deities.

The

probably regarded in ancient art as the

ai^otheosis,

from

its

use in the most solemn

processions, religious and triumphal.*^

On

examinina: the fragments of horses from the

quadriga,

it

was found that the two

pieces of head

could be fitted on to the anterior half of a horse,

mentioned

ante,

p.

Ill

{see

Plate 11)

the larger

fi'agment, however, proved to be the hinder half of

From the

another horse.

action of the shoulder

and

hind quarter, as well as from the fact that two fore

hoofs were found attached to fragments of the base
of the quadriga,

it

may bo

inferred

horses were in a standing position.

fore feet of one or

two

in the

that

all

the

Perhaps the

group may have been

represented pawing the ground.

Consummate knowledge

of form

is

shown

in these

few fragments of the colossal group which sur-

mounted

the pyramid, and

which are the more

valuable because there are fcAV extant remains of

ancient scidpture of which the author and date can

be so positively identified.
that this group

was executed

We know
l)y

from Pliny

Pythis or Pythios,

lis
wlio

TKAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

is

probably identical

witli the

Phiteus men-

tioned by Vitruvius as one of the two architects of

the tomb.**

Of the quadriga itself the only portions foimd

were some fragments of the wheel.
The accompanying cut shows the form of

this

wheel as restored

by Mr. Pullan, the pieces found being indicated by

darker hues.

From

this restoration

we

obtain for

the diameter of the wheel 7 feet 7 inches, a dimension of great value in determining the entire height

of the quadriga.

have already mentioned that, intermixed with

the sculptures behind the marble wall, were found a
I

number

of blocks, also of white marble.

PlMC U.

COLOSSAL HORSE

FROM

CHARIOT

CROUP

MAUSOLEU M.

Joj-Msi It.bi.srj-d

mT>nk

Soiv]..lJlf'-Slo

Ihc

Qn-cn

119

IN THE LEVANT.

After extracting

mass

this

of ruins,

all

the fragments of statues from

we examined the blocks of marble,

and on measuring them

was found that they were

of an uniform thickness of 1 foot ^ of an inch,
and that on their
averaging 4 feet in length
it

;''^

upper sm'face they had certain

and on

tions,

their lower

showed

which
steps

of the

with

great

1,

have been

one into the other

first

demonstrated

in

Excavations

ing the

to fifty of these

forty

was

as

to

a letter written at Budrum,

1857, and printed in the " Papers respect-

by Lieut. Smith,
June

clearly

pyi'amid, jointed
nicety,

certain grooves,

surface

them very

and projec-

lines

at

Budrum," 1858.

steps

From

were measured; the

width of the treads was uniformly either

foot 9

inches or 1 foot 5 inches, the only exceptions being

the case of the corner steps, which had on one side

a tread of 1 foot 9 inches, and on the return or

adjacent side the smaller dimension, showing that the

pyramid was of an oblong form.

Assuming that PHny is correct in his statement

that the number of pyramid steps was twenty-four,
Lieut. Smith multiplied by this number the depth
of the steps, and thus obtained the total height of
the pyramid.

Again, multiplying the tread

9 inches by the
lateral

42

same number

24,

and repeating the same process with the

narrower tread, he obtained as the

of the pyramid on each end 34
if

foot

spread of the pyramid on each side to be

feet,

that

he found the

feet.

lateral spread

It is obvious

these spreads are doubled, the dimensions of

the base of the pyramid will be ascertained, provided

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKTES

120
that

tlie

length and breadth of the platform on the

top of the pyramid can be ascertained.

The discovery

of the remains of the chariot group

enabled Lieut. Smith to calculate approximately the

dimensions of this platfoi'm as 24 feet by 18.

He

thus obtained 108 feet as the length of the

base of the pyramid, and 86 feet as

(twice the lateral spread) 42 feet
feet for the length,

34

feet

18 feet

and (twice the

= 8G

These dimensions
only approximative,

its

width

24

feet

\"iz.

108

lateral spread)

feet.

however, to be regarded as

are,

because

the remains

of the

chariot group furnish no sufficient data by which

may determine
nor

certain that all the twenty-four steps

is it

we

the size of the platform on the apex,

had

Thus in Mr. Pullau's

of the Mausoleum this platform is

treads of the same width.

restoration

made 25
in

width

feet

G inches in length by 20 feet 5 inches

while Mr. Fergusson, with the same evi-

dence before him, prefers a smaller area of 20 Greek

feet

by

It

16."

has been already mentioned that the steps of

the pyramid were found lying piled up intermixed

with fragments of colossal horses and statues.

In the sides of many of the steps copper cramps

were

still

fixed,

and were generally bent, as

had been wrenched from

broken at one end,

panying

cut.

The

is

their places.

One

if

they

of these,

represented in the accom-

fact

that

so great a quantity

of i-ought copper was found with these mai'bles,

shoAvs that

they never can have been disturbed

since their first

fall,

for such valuable metal

would

IN

THE LRVAXT.

l'2i

never have escaped the cupidity of the Middle Ages,

had

it

been exposed to view.

Length 5i

Another proof

tliat

where they originally

that the edges of

all

in.

hij

\\ in

marbles were lying

these

fell, is

to be found in the fact

the fractures were quite fresh,

which would have been impossible had they ever

been turned over,

like the

covered in the quadrangle.

that this part of the site

the Knights
I

when they

marbles previously

dis-

It is evident, therefore,

had never been explored by

built the castle.

have already stated that the strip of ground

where these marbles were discovered was immediately to the north of a marble wall. This wall was

composed of three courses, the lowest of which avus

principally built of blue marble, the two ui)pcr
courses being of white marble of a fine quality.

The

joints

were

fitted

with extreme care, and the

whole work exhibited that sense of proportion and

nicety of execution which are the characteristics of

Hellenic masonry in
this wall

its

The height of

best period.

was rather more than

(>

been carried two courses higher.

feet

it

may have

In one place a

stone of the upper course was driven inward {see

Plate 6 of
as if

some

my

History of the

Expedition),

had dislocated the upper

many blocks of which were found

violent shock

part of the wall,

Budrum

122

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEBIES

lying intermixed with the marble steps and sculpture

behind
It

it.

is

probable that an earthquake was the force

which rent asunder the pyramid, hurling a portion

of the chariot group and of the steps on which it
rested over the marble

and carrying away

wall,

the coping of the wall with

it

in its

This

fall.

must have taken place some time before the occupation of Budrum by the Knights, when the
Mausoleum is described as in ruins, and subseon the other hand, to the 12th century,
when Eustatliius wrote, " It was and is a wonder."
quently,

He would

hardly have used the present tense unless

the pyramid had been

The marble

marble in

erect.

wall, as I shall

was that of the

show subsequently,

pcriholos or sacred precinct

The

the tomb.

still

round

preservation of so great a mass of

this particidar spot

may

be accounted for

by the configuration of the ground. It wiU be seen

by a comparison of the sections of the ground at

AB

EF

and

virons of the

(Plate

3),

Mausoleum

with the plan of the en(Plate 2 of

my

History of

the Expedition), that to the north of the marble

wall the native rock slopes upwards

the steep side of a

conical

liill

it

meets

north of

In the rainy season a considerable volume

the road.

of water descends fi'om this

liill

to the sea,

anciently conducted into cisterns

channels

till

to the

and was

by subterraneous

but these ducts having been blocked up

after the decay of the ancient city, the

it

had

up the narrow

strip

have lodged against the marble

deposited a

silt

sufficient to

fill

water must

Avail

till

TlsLte.12.

Vol

MAUSOLEUM
DETAILS

OF

ORDLR

rjrjTjJTjjyrTrirji

ISXSMS^

3
i;y

rr

iP,

IJl

i\

AA A

V IVVL

Dayi Scm LithT' to the guficn

123

IN THE LEVANT.

of ground to the nortli of

and thus must have

it,

gi'adually obhterated all trace of the wall itself.

The
Gorgon

marbles

architectural

sent

home

the

in

consisted of portions of the cornice, frieze,

and architrave, several

capitals

and

bases, together

with two di'ums from a column.

These data enabled Mr. Pullan subsequently to

reconstruct the Order, as

is

transverse beam, an

shown

in Plate 12.

oblong slab which had

formed one side of a lacunar, and a number of

other architectural marbles, were also found,

which are engraved

Expedition, Plates

Nearly

all

in

my

Histoiy of the

all

of

Budrum

2529.

the enriched mouldings are worked on

detached pieces of mai'ble, which were

let

into

ledges cut on the upper edges of the fascias, for the

ornament of which they were designed.

All the ornaments are finished mtli an exquisite
delicacy.

This

where every leaf

is particularly

in the floral

seen in the cornice,

ornaments

is

wrought

with that labour of love which distinguishes Greek

arcliitecture in its best age,

but which ceases to be

its

characteristic after the time of Alexander the Great.

members of

Mausoleum
were painted. The colours were pure red and blue
the pigments employed were probably vermihon and
silicate of copper, a cake of which was found in the
tombs at Camirus by Messrs. Salzmann and Biliotti.
The ground of the ornaments in the Mausoleum was
All the architectin^al

the

painted blue, the mouldings picked out with red.

On many of the
British Museum

smaller mouldings preserved in the

colour

may

yet be seen.

124

TRAVELS AND DISOOVEEIES

The greater

part

of the

marbles

architectural

discovered evidently belong to the Pterov, which, as

Pliny states, consisted of thirty-six columns

roundino- the

tomb

itself.

The

sur-

heio'ht of this Ptcron,

according to Pliny, was 25 cubits (equal to 37-|

EngHsh

The height

feet).

of the order, as con-

structed by Mr. Pullan from

37

if

feet

existing remains,

is

2i inches.

The pyramid which siu-mounted the Pteron was,

a somewhat obscure passage in Pliny has been

rightly understood, equal to

it

Twenty-

in height.

four pyramidal steps, such as were discovered

would give a height of 24

pyi-amid.

If

we suppose

in,

situ,

feet 6 inches for

the

that

its

apex was sur-

mounted by a pedestal some 13 feet high, on which

the quadriga rested as Mr. Fergusson has, with

great probability, suggested

the

united height of

the pyi^amid and pedestal would be about 37^

feet,

and would thus equal the height of the Pteron, as

and when he says that the pyramid
Pliny states
;

tapered off

in

mdce

caciuncn, to a point like that of a

may have meant

meta or goal, he

to indicate the

pedestal as a distinct feature by these words.

assume that the

figure of

Mausolus stood

If

we
the

in

quadriga on a base a Httle above the axle of the

wheel, the height of the chariot group may be
calculated at about 14 feet.

The sum

of these measurements

is

as follows

Pteron

37^

feet.

Pp'amid and pedestal

3 7^

Chariot group

14

,,

89

feet.

125

IN T]IE LEVANT.

But Pliny

states

the

tliat

monument was 140

feet.

height of

entire

We

must

the

therefore

suppose that the Pteroii stood on a basement 51 feet

in height.

Such a high basement ov podlina

in

featui-e

tombs,

arcliitectural

as may
XXXI.

is

a very

both

common

Greek

and

Roman,

be seen by the examples given in

Plate

of

my

History of Discoveries at

Budrum, and by the remains still existing on the

Appian AVay and it was within or below the solid
masonry of such liasements that the sepulchral
chamber was Tisually placed, the upper part of the
;

monument being
in

which

the

usually a small temple or heroun,

dead

were

worshipped.

In

the

Mausoleum, the basement was evidently built of the

blocks of green stone, of which I found the lowest
courses

still

in

situ,

and must have been faced

externally with marble slabs, the

monotony of the

by one or more

belts of

disappeai-ance of this marble casing

may be

plain courses being broken

frieze.

The

accounted for by the fact that this part of the

bidlding would have been the

first to suffer in

the

Middle Ages, and would have been stripped

off"

piecemeal, not only in the endeavom' to force an

entrance into the sepulchi'al chamber within, but for

the sake of the metal cramps by which the slabs

must have been attached.

After this marble casing had been torn

off",

one or

more of the corners of the basement would then

probably have been attacked, and thus the angle
columns of the Fteron would have been so rinder-

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

126

mined

no longer

as

to resist the sliock of earth-

would bring down the whole

colonnade and superincumbent pyramid and when
the Knights first came to Budrum, these ruins must
Their

quakes.

fall

have been lying

in a great

heap upon and around

the basement.

This

I think, evident

is,

fi'om

the well-known

narrative of Guichard, published in 1581.

that in 1522,

when

He

states

the Knights were repairing the

Castle of St. Peter, "they looked about for stones

wherewith to make lime, and found in the middle of

a level

field

of white

near the Port of Budrum, certain steps

marble raised in the form of a terrace

(perron).

" They therefore removed these marble steps, and,

after

having destroyed the

little

masonry remaining

above ground, proceeded to dig lower in quest of

more.

In a short time they perceived that the

deeper they went, the more the structure was enlarged at the base, supplying them not only with
stone for

makmg

lime, but also for building.

After

four or five days, having laid bare a great space one

afternoon, they

saw an opening as

into a cellar.

Taking a candle, they let themselves down through

this opening, and fovmd that it led into a fine large
square apartment, ornamented all roimd with columns
of marble, with

their

bases,

capitals,

architrave,

and cornice engraved and sculptured in relief.

The space between the columns was lined with slabs
and bands of marble, ornamented with mouldings
and sculpture, in harmony with the rest of the
work, and inserted in the white groimd of the wall

frieze,

127

IN THE LEVANT.

were represented sculptured in

wliei'e battle-scenes
relief.

Having
tained

admired

at first

their

with

fancy

sculpture, they pulled

whole of

it,

applying

it
it

works and enter-

tliese

the

singularity

to pieces

the

and broke up the

same purpose

to the

of

as the

Besides this apartment, they foimd afterwards

rest.

a very low door which led into another apartment

serving as an antechamber, where was a sepulchre

with

its

vase and helmet (tymhrc) of white marble,

very beautiful, and of marvellous lustre.

This sepulchre, for want of time, they did not

The day
they found the tomb

open, the retreat having already sounded.

when they

after,

returned,

opened and the earth aU round strewn with fragments

of cloth of gold, and spangles of the same metal, which

made them suppose

that the pirates

who hovered

along this coast, having some inkling of what had

been discovered, had visited the place during the

night and removed the

lid of

the sepulchre."

Guichard gives this curious narrative on the authority of d'Alechamps, the learned editor of Pliny,

who heard
de

the story from the lips of the

la Tourette, a

when
It

Commander

Lyonese knight present at Budrum

this discovery

took place.

would seem from

this

account that the perron

which the Knights began by destroying, was the

stylo-

bate on which the columns of the Ptcron rested, on

removing which they came to the

solid core

basement, built of green stone.

On

Castle of St. Peter,

we

of the

entering the

recognize on every side the

materials taken by the Knights.

Many

of the walls

128

AND

TliAVELS

DISC'OVEiar.S

are entirely built of green stone, and

and

the jambs

all

arcliitraves of doors are of fine white

marble

similar to that of the Pteron.

It should

be observed, however, that the destruc-

tion of the ruins of the

Mausoleum by the Knights

did not commence, as Giiichard's narrative would

a date as 1522, but must have

imply, at so late

been going on since Schlegelholt began to build the

Castle about the year 1402.

Of the
jjossesses

frieze of the

in

has already been

as

the Castle."
the frieze

is

Order the

sixteen

all

slabs,

St.

from

other slab of

preserved in the Villa di Negro

still

was probably

it

Budrum by one

John some time

IGth century.
figure of an

One

(Plates 13, 15.)

ported from

of which,

were removed

stated,

Genoa, to which place

at

Museum

Bi-itish

twelve

in

of the

trans-

Knights

the 15th or early in the

fragment containing part of a

Amazon

is

to be seen in the

Museum

the Seraglio, at Constantinojjle, where I noticed

1852.

(See ante,

of

I. p.

43.)

How

it

fotmd

there I have not been able to ascertain.

It

its

it

of
in

way

may have

been dug up at Budrum and sent to Constantinople

as a present to

some pasha, or

it

may have been

taken out of the walls of the Castle at Cos, also

built

by the Knights

some

The
British

built

reliefs

Castle, ordered

for I

was

Mahmoud

that the late Sultan

seeing

them

told in that island

on his

into

the

visit

walls

to Cos,

of the

to be sent to Constantinople.

subject throughout the sixteen slabs in the

Museum

Amazons.

is

These

a combat between Greeks and

slabs,

however,

cannot

be

w&

-^

f7\

'^1^/'

^^A7'
a

M4

'-^/i

*i-

'^

arranged

as to

tlie

but are taken from

in regular sequence,

various parts of the series

120

LEVANT.

[X TTTK

nor have we any evidence

which they occupied,

side of the building

except in the case of those found by

me

(see anfe,

p. 95), which are j^robably from the eastern side.

These four are evidently by the same artist, and

are in far better preservation than those from the

Castle.

Three of these four slabs were found to form a

continuous subject

{see the

upper row in Plate 13,

where by an oversight the order of these three

plates has been transposed,
Ijeing in the place

the slab on the right

where the slab on the

left

should

have been).

On

the

figure is a

slal)

engraved

Plate 14 the

mounted Amazon, whose horse

as if about to strike with his fore legs a

rior in fi-ont of him.

The

so as to face the horse's

tail,

who

in fi-ont of her is

is

rearing,

Greek war-

rider has turned

after the Parthian fashion at

The Greek

principal

and

is

round

drawing her bow

an enemy behind her.

engaged with an Amazon,

pressing eagerly forward

her adversary's shield with her

and, laying hold of

left

hand, has her

drawn back to deal him a blow with a battleaxe.

The Greek has his body thrown very far back,
resting his weight on the right knee, and trying to

right

cover himself with his buckler.

broken

off,

His right has been

but probably held a spear.

Throughout the sixteen slabs the artist has maintained a skilful contrast of nude and di'aped, of male
and female forms.

In the composition the groups

are less intricate than in the frieze of the Parthenon

VOL.

II.

130
or

travels' AND DISCOVEEIES

of the temple of Apollo at Phigalia,

tlaat

arranged so as to balance

eacli other

by a peculiar

The

antithesis of oblique parallel lines.

and are

relief is very-

the limbs being fi-equently sculptured in the

salient,

round with occasional bold

foreshorteninsf's.

The

marked with extreme force, a channel

being worked in the marble round each figure, and
deep under- cutting used wherever it would conoutlines are

tribute to the effect.

This

frieze

is

distinguished

by the wonderful

animation and energy which pervades the whole

composition.

happy boldness of invention

is

shown

in the

incidents which represent the varied fortunes of a

combat

in

which neither

victory.

side can

consummate

claim a decisive

technical

knowledge

is

applied throughout to render the expression of each

figure

and group as intense as

possible,

and pro-

portions are boldly exaggerated to produce more

striking

Tried by

effects.

the

standard of the

school of Phidias, and viewed simply as a composition in relief, without regard to its place as a subor-

dinate architectural

be considered a
style.

It

may

little

strained

frieze

may perhaps

and overwrought in

be thought that such intensity in the

action needs the

repose, such as

member, the

we

contrast

of forms expressive of

see introduced so skilfully in the

metopes of the Parthenon and the Phigahan

and the whole composition,

if

compared with

fi-ieze

similar

subjects as treated by Phidias, seems less ethical and

more

pathetic.

this frieze

Moreover, among the Amazons on

forms occur which some would reo'ard as

^.

s
V

Wy^
%i
'5^-

^^

fwx^v/V

*5

^1
^M

^..^
f-i

^mmm--S

too voluptuous for so heroic a type

detect the

131

THE LEVANT.

IN

and we may here

germs of that sensual element which

first

gained such an ascendancy in the later schools of art,

but of which we have no trace in the works of Phidias.

In makino- these criticisms on the

Mausoleum,

it

frieze of the

must not be forgotten that the

slabs

which we possess do not form a continuous compobut are for the most part fragments of very

sition,

extended groups balanced one against the other with

We

extreme subtlety.

also bear in

Mausoleum stood on a

as the
frieze

must

would be placed

member

than this
temple.

at a

usually

mind that

lofty basement, the

much

greater height

occupied in a Greek

Distance would thus tone dovra and har-

monize much that appears strained and exaggerated

when

seen, as the frieze

now

is,

on the

eye and at the distance of only a few

level of the

feet.

Considering the perfect taste and keeping shown

in every part of the design of the
far as

we know

Mausoleum, so

and the entire absence of ex-

it,

aggeration in the sculptures in the round,

ficult to believe

frieze

that so important a feature as the

of the Order would have been designed in a

style not in
It

it is dif-

harmony with

the rest.

has been already noted that the whole

was coloured.

From

offi'agments on their

the examination of a

first

that the ground of the

frieze

number

disinterment, I ascertained

relief,

like that of the archi-

was a blue equal in intensity to

dun red, and the drapery
and armour picked out with vermilion, and perhaps

tectural ornaments,

idtramarine, the flesh a

other colours.

k2

132

TRAVELS AND PISCOVERIES

The

on

bridles, as

tlie

frieze of

the Parthenon,

were of metal, for the attachment of "which the heads

of several of the horses are pierced.

This variety of

tint

must have greatly contributed

and animation of the composition,

to the distinctness

and to unite the several groups in one great harmony, if, as we may fairly assume, the artists of the

Mausoleum had as fine a sense

colour as they had in form.
While

this is passing

of proportion in

through the press,

tion has been called to a passage in Mr.

cott's

Handbook

has thought

my

fit

my

atten-

Westma-

of Sculpture, p. ISH, in which he

to call in question the accuracy of

statement as to the colour observed on the

sculptures

Mausoleum.

of the

beg

therefore

leave to refer the reader to the documents v/hich

I

have printed at the end of this volume"'

roboration of

Among

the

found on the
fi'om

my

official

many

reports on the subject.

fragments of sculptured

of the Mausoleum,

site

reliefs

were some

a frieze which has evidently represented a

combat between Greeks and Centaurs.

fragments of this frieze found on the
corroded, as

The material
relief

in cor-

if
is

site are

the

much

they had been exposed to weather.

white marble, coarse in grain, the

very salient.

this frieze

All

I think

it

not improbable that

ornamented the basement of the tomb.

There were also upwards of a hundred fragments

of a third frieze,
charioteers being

representing a chariot-race, the

all

and extremities are

as in the

fi-ieze

female.
for the

In this

frieze the

heads

most part not detached,

of the Order, but relieved on the

^oi

hICURE

FROM

REPRESENTING

FRIEZE

CHARIOT RACE.

MAUSOLEUM

133

IN THE LEVAKT.

In some cases the treatment

gi'ound.

as in the
is

fi'ieze

is

very

flat,

The execution

of the Parthenon.

highly wi'ought, and the material a finer marble

the

of

On

that employed in the other friezes.

than

may

pieces

still

imder an

Plate

16,

ground

the

of

colour

aqueous deposit.

interesting fragment of this

engraved

charioteer

blue

be traced

The most
that

the

one

representing

frieze

is

female

standing in a quculruja, and draped in

a chiton reaching to the

feet.

Her body

is

thrown

forward, and her countenance and whole attitude

are expressive of the eagerness of the contest.

The

features are finished almost with the delicacy of a

gem.
This

frieze

has a

flat

ogee moulding at the foot, on

the under side of which the enriched ornament usual

in this

moulding has been painted.

Faint traces of

the blue ground and of the leaves of this ornament

still

remain on the marble.

dently designed to

whole
tion

frieze

and

fi'iezes

less

This ornament was evi-

be seen from below, and the

was evidently meant

for nearer inspec-

exposure to the weather, than the two

already described.

Of the sculptures in the round which decorated

the Mausoleum we possess many fragments besides
the remains from the chariot group already noticed.

The most remarkable

of these fi-aoments

is

from

the equestrian group discovered within the quad-

rangle (see ante, p. 94, Plate 4).

This group has

been cruelly mutilated. Of the horse nothing remains

but the body cut off" at the shoulders of the rider,
;

only the body from the waist to the hips, the

left

134

TRAVELS AND DISCOVETilES

hand and

and

wi'ist,

tlie riglit tliigli

and

This

leg.

figure wears the close-fitting trowsers called anaxy-

over which

rides,

a tunic with sleeves, girt at

falls

the waist and reaching half-way

The horse

is

down

the thighs.

in a rearing attitude, as is sliOAvn

the bend of the body,

shoulder and arm.

and by the action of the

In the present mutilated state

of this group the action of the rider cannot be

out with certainty

but

was represented

figure

made

seems probable that

it

this

striking do"\vnwards with a

Thus the group may have

spear at a prostrate foe.

originally

by

commemorated

the triumph of an Asiatic

Avarrior over one of his enemies.

The upper jaw and nose of a horse found near

torso

may have belonged

mouth
and

to

this

In that case the

it.

must have been represented open,

distended with rage, as would be

of the horse

his nostrils

characteristic of a horse in the excitement of battle.

Notwithstanding the great mutilation which this

torso has received,
finest

it

may

be considered one of the

examples of ancient sculjitures which has sm'-

The body

vived the wreck of time.

a masterpiece of modelling
affects the

the rearing

whole frame, and the

mass of marble seems

to

of the horse is

solid

movement

and unwieldy

bend and spring before om'

eyes, as if all the latent energy of the animal

were

suddenly called forth and concentrated in one

ward movement.

Equal

sentation of the rider.

fect

to

than his

grow

seat.

The

skill is

in the repre-

Nothing can be more perright leg and thigh seems

manner in Avhich
movement of the rearmg

to the horse's side

the waist yields to the

shown

foi'-

the

135

IN THE LEVANT.
liorse is

admirably expressed by

the drapery

fully studied

tlie

composition of

the position of the bridle

;

the elbow

is

hand

is

care-

fixed, the wrist flexible,

thumb firmly bent over the reins.

The other sculptures foimd on the site of the
Mausoleum consist of heads, torsoes, and limbs fi'om
the

and fragments of hons.

statues,

show that the statues

differed

These remains

much

from colossal proportions to

in scale,

life-size.

ranging

The arms

and legs are mostly naked, the long sleeves

to the

chiton or the ciuh-oinides occur only as the exception.

The muscles are in no instance in violent action,

and the composition of the drapery is inconsistent
with rapid movement.
None of the fi'agments
appear to have been broken
to be

inferred,

therefore,

ofi"

from groups.

It is

that the statues Avhich

decorated the Mausoleum were for the most part

isolated

The

and standing

lions

in attitudes of repose.

must have been a marked feature

scidptural decoration of the tomb.

dence of the fi'agments which

we

From

possess,

it

in the

the evi-

may be

calculated that there were at least twenty of these

and probably many more have

animals,

enth'ely

disappeared.

Their proportions are evidently adjusted to more

scale.
The largest measure 4 feet 6 inches
from the point of the shoulder to the hind quarter,

than one

whde

others are about three inches narrower in the

same

part.

but

probably

it

From

Their height cannot be exactly fixed,

did"

not

much exceed

the examination of the

five feet.

numerous fragments

of legs and paws, and also from the action of the

136

TRAVELS AXD DtSCOVEEIES

shoulders and liind quarters, there can hardly be a

doubt that

all

like

sentinels.

been

all

the lions were represented standing-

Their heads, which seem to have

placed nearly on the same level, are turned

with a vigilant look in different directions, as

they

if

were guarding the approaches to the tomb.

Their

expression and attitudes are beautifully varied.

some the countenance has an angry

In

look, in others

the natural savageness of the animal seems tempered

with a certain earnestness and pathos in the expression which

hons

is

is

square and compact

muscidar.

The frame of these

very peculiar.

The mane

the limbs wiry and

short and close, and the

is

hind quarters do not exhibit that

disproportion which

mind

that

many

In comparing the lions of

nature,

Avitli

and

off

so remarkable in the Afi-ican

is

lion of the present day.

the Mausoleum

falling

it

must be borne

been made by the sculptors

in

life

may have

in order to

adapt the

deviations from the

forms of these animals to the architectiu'al design of

which they formed a

part.

On comparing these

hons one with another,

be seen that then' sculpture

The

finest of all the

heads

is
is

it

will

of very unequal merit.

one found in a garden

wall to the north of the Mausoleum, and engraved

Plate 17.

This

is

remarkable for the

flowing lines of the composition.

of the
surface

mouth and nose

is

rich

and

In the scidpture

a masterly discrimination of

shown, and the execution, though highly

elaborate, is free

and

bold, the artist never losing

sight of the general effect.

In two other

lions,

both

of which were found on the north side, the details of

Vol

PU(^ 17

Sv-g'

HEAD OF

LION

MAUSOLEUM.

LondolL PatlisT^cd

bT'.Dffir

&

Soji,Litlif^to Oie Qaesa

IN

137

THE LEVANT.

the anatomy are rendered in a somewhat conventional

It is possible that the

and meagre manner.

less carefully

executed lions were intended to be

seen at a greater distance than the otliers

am
for

but I

disposed to consider them as works from which,

some reason or

master hand was

the

other,

withheld.

Great knowledge and

skill

of execution are

in the sculpture of the paws,

varied in action.

The

shown

which are beautifidly

sculptors of the

Mausoleum

were well aware how much of the general expression

and mood of
by so

all

the feline species

slight a sign

may

be indicated

a protruded or reti'acted

as

claw.

From patches

of colour which were visible on two

of these lions on their

bable that they were

disinterment,

first

it is

painted a tawny red.

all

pro-

The

marble in which they are sculptured appears to he

Pentelic;

much
left

it

is

evidently of a

of the surface

is

choice quality, for

as fresh as the day

when

it

the chisel.]

XL

I.

BuDiiUM, Seplcmhrr 30, 1S57.

Since

tlie

date of

my last

to explore the site of the

letter

we have continued

Mausoleum, extending the

excavations on the north and east sides.

The marble wall behind which so much sculpture

was found has ])een traced for o:j7 feet on the north

138

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

and

side,

return

its

it

the wall of the

is

lias

been met with on the

There can therefore be no doubt that

eastern side.

'ijeriholos

or sacred precinct

round the tomb, of which the entu'e

ing to Hyginus, was 1,340

circuit, accord-

feet.

Considerable progress has

also

been made in

clearing out the subterraneous galleries round the

Mausoleum.

We

continue to find torsoes and other

remains of sculpture and architectm-e in the upper

but in proportion as the excavations are ex-

soil;

tended to a greater distance from the quadrangular

area on which the
yields less

and

I reserve a
tions

till

Mausoleum

stood, the

ground

less of these remains.

more

a futm-e

detailed account of our opera-

letter,

more clearly stated.

While exploring the

when the

site of

results can be

the Mausoleum, I have

not been indifferent to the general topography of

Halicarnassus, and with this view a small party of
sailors

from the Gorgon, under the command of

Mr. Royce, was employed to examine a

fine plat-

form which overlooks the Mausoleum, and which,

from

its

extent,

commanding

position,

and the mas-

was
mistaken by Mr. W. J. Hamilton and Dr. Ludwig
Ross for the site of the Mausoleum itself.
siveness of the terrace wall which boimds

In the centre of

it,

this platform the outlines of

an

were indicated by ridges, and close to

these ridges were several drums of Ionic colmnns of
oblong

fine

edifice

white marble, and 4 feet in diameter.

On excavating

here,

Mr. Royce

laid bare the foun-

dations of an oblong edifice, 46 feet in width, and

139

IN THE LEVANT.

The

probably not less than 100 feet in length.

mai'ble superstructure

peared, but a few

had almost entirely disap-

small fragments

\vere found,

which prove that the

on

was of the Ionic

this site

were very similar in

of mouldings

edifice

which stood

The mouldings
design and workmanship to
order.

those found on the site of the Mausoleum, and, like

those, bore traces of red

and blue

colom'.

It is

probable, therefore, that the edifice to which they

belong was executed in the same century as the

Mausoleum, and we can hardly doubt that here

stood the Temple of Mars, mentioned byVitruvius
in a passage to
p. 84,

and

in

which I have already referred,

which he gives the following descrip-

tion of the topography of Hahcarnassus

solus

ante,

percei^^ng that Halicaruassus

" Mau-

was a place

naturally fortified, favourable for trade, and with a

convenient harbour,

made

it

royal residence.

his

As

the form of the site was curved like a theatre,

on the lowest ground near the port was placed the

Along the

forum.
height,

likened

cui-ve,

was made a broad

to

the ^prcecvndio

centre of this street

about halfway up

which

street,

may be

of a theatre.

In the

stood the Mausoleum,

structed with such marvellous works

its

that

conit

is

Wonders of the world.

of the citadel above was the Temple

considered one of the Seven

In the centre
of

Mars,

containing a colossal

from the hand of Leochares

others) Timotheus.

On

acrolithic

or

statue

(according

to

the summit of the right-

hand extremity of the curve was the Temple of

Venus and Mercury, close to the fountain Salmacis.

140

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Now

in like

manner

as

on the right hand was

this

Temple of Venus and Mercury and the above-named

fountain, so on the left horn, or extremity of the
curve, stood the royal palace, which King Mausolus
placed so as to suit his

own

designs

for fi'om it

can be seen, on the right hand, the forum, the harbour, and the whole circuit of the walls

on the

left

a secret port, so concealed under the walls that no

one could spy or ascertain what was going on there

that the king from his O'^m palace might, without

the knowledge of any one, direct

all

that was neces-

sary for his fleet and army."

On comparing
Plate
it

1,

will

round

this

description

with the Plan,

and with the view of Budi-um, Plates 18,

19,

be seen that the shore of the harbour bends

in a curve,

terminating in two headlands or

horns, on one of which stands the Turkish arsenal,

on the other the Castle of

Around

St. Peter.

curved shore the area of the ancient city

defined by

its

walls,

broken continuity

all

which

may be

round,

a narrow strip of rich

houses, Avhere the

soil,

still

traced in un-

except

approach the seashore on the eastern

is

this

where they

side, enclosing

studded with

flat-i'oofed

Turkish peasant cultivates his

little

plot of ground, dwelling imder the shade of his

own

fig-tree,

most genial
This

and enjoying a climate perhaps the

in the Levant.

fertile

strip of shore is

north by a high range of

of the
It
site

hills,

hemmed

in

on the

the natural defence

site.

has been already stated {ante, p. 84) that the

of the Mausoleum corresponds exactly with the

9W<

".V

IN

141

THE LEVANT.

by Vitruvnis, i.e., "the

up the height." The
centre of the curve, halfway
Temple of Mars overph^tform where I phice his
assigned to

position

it

the north-east of it,

looks the Mausoleum, lying to
whole range of the
and is the only spot in the
any trace
heights where I could discover

northern

of the site of a temple.

of Mars as placed
Vitruvius describes the Temple
On reference to the Plan, it
media.
,, ,ammn arce
platform marked " Temple of
will be seen that the
of the wall of the
lies a little to the south

Mars"

hill makes a dip

ancient city, at a point where the
most elevated
between two fortified heights, the two

points in the

whole

line

of circumvallation.

Of

one on the west is a

these strongholds or arces the
thro%>m np by volcanic
conical hill of tufaceous rock,
above the sea
agency to the height of 520 feet
into a long salient
while that on the east juts out
above the town in
angle to the north-east, rising
temple
precipitous crags of nummulite Umestone.
be
between two such fortified heights may

lying

fairly

described as placed in

smnma

arce

medUi^m

highest points in
the midst of or between the two
the northern wall of Halicarnassus.
architectural
have already remarked that the
indicate that the
fragments found on this platform
I

built at the
temple which stood here was probably
This is the more
period as the Mausoleum.

same

statue in the
probable inasmuch as the acrolithic

Temple

of

Mars was attributed

either to Leochares

were employed by
tomb.
Artemisia on the decoration of her husband's

or Timotheus,

both of

whom

142

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Thougli Vitruvius does not say

of

Mars

Avas built

by Mausolus,

it

the

tliat

Temple

may, I think, be

inferred from his description, that an edifice occu-

pying such a conspicuous and central position was

part of the original plan of the city, and

it is

pro-

bable that, in accordance with a practice which has

prevailed in India

down

to

a recent period, the

tomb of the Carian prince was commenced

in his

lifetime.^^

Two

of the three central points mentioned by

Vitruvius being thus fixed,

site

we must look

for the

of his agora on the shore, in the ground

now

occupied by the konak, harem, and gardens of Salik

Bey.

In

this

ground an Ionic base, resembling those

of the Mausoleum, but only three feet in diameter,

the drum of an Ionic column on the same scale,

and many ancient marbles have been dug up.

On

the

left

horn of the harbour Vitruvius places

the palace of Mausolus

on the right the Temple of

Venus and Mercury, close to the fountain Salmacis.

The position of the palace was such that on the left
it

overlooked a

secret

little

arsenal of Mausolus

port attached to the

on the right

commanded

it

the agora, the harbour, and the entire

circuit of the

The position of the secret port was first laid

down by Captain Spratt, in the Admiralty Chart,
No. 1606. He was the first to notice the founda-

walls.

tions of

its

mole, which

are

still

harbour at the side of the isthmus.

this port being fixed,

Vitruvius
solus

is

it

visible

The

in the^

position of

follows, if the description of

hterally exact, that the palace of

must have been

somewhere on

the

Maurising

143

IN THE LEVANT.

ground to
position
at the

tlie

would

east

of

liave tlio

tlie

harboui",

for

secret port on

no

same time command a view of the

heights above.

We

otlier

tlie left,

and

fortified

can hardly doubt that in the

time of Mausolus the rocky platform on which the

Castle

now

stands was an island, and that here was

one of the two citadels mentioned by Arrian in the

account of the siege of Hahcaruassus by Alexander
the Great.

The arsenal of Mausolus must have

extended over the low ground on the isthmus

occupied by the Greek quarter.

those of Rhodes and Carthage, and the port

were jealously screened

It

fi'om

now

This arsenal, like

itself,

view by high walls.

was here that the princes of Caria prepared

it was

naval and military operations in secrecy, and

out of this port that Artemisia issued
prised the

when

she sur-

Rhodians by a dexterous manoeuvre.^*

The canal by which she passed through

the isthmus

now
By

(Plate 1),

probably forms the northern fosse of the Castle.

reference to the Plan of

win be seen that the

Budrum

site of the palace of

it

Mausolus

was chosen with much judgment for military purposes.

To the east his position was covered by the city
wall in fi'ont of him were his arsenal and fleet and
behind him the strong citadel into which he coidd
;

retreat if necessary,

and which was doubtless con-

nected with the mainland by a drawbridge.

Of the Temple of Venus and

]\Iercury

which

adorned the western horn, no vestige remains on

the shore opposite

to

the

peninsula.

The most

conspicuous feature on this side of the bay

steep

rock of Caplau

Calessj^,

is

the

on the summit of

144
which

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

is

a platform included in the line of the walls

where Captain Spratt has with much probabUit}'

placed the citadel called Salmacis by Arrian. It is

presumed that this fortress was near the

fountain of the same name, which according to
Vitruvius was close to the Temple of Venus and
to be

Mercury

but after a careful survey of the ground I

have been unable to discover any fountain corresponding with the position assigned to that of Salmacis." From an insci'iption which I have discovered

Budrum, in which a decree is made out in the

joint names of the HaUcarnassians and Salmacians,
at

it

may be

inferred that the latter people Avere of

Carian or Lelegian race, and that they originally

dwelt on the rocky promontory of Caplan Calessy,
the opposite horn of the harbour, then an island,
settlers.

The name

for the citadel

on Caplan

having been occupied by the Doric

of Salmacis

was retained

Calessy after the separate existence of the native

town had been merged

in that of Halicarnassus.^"

After fixing these points in the topography, the

account of the taking of Hahcarnassus by Alexander

the Great becomes quite clear.

he entered the

city in the night, and, looking

fi'om the heights

citadels,

According to Arrian,

down

which he occupied, saw the two

Salmacis and the fortress in the island,

occupied by the Persians.

should have

first

It

was

still

natural that he

secured his position in the highest

part of the city, taking possession of the fort on the

conical

hill,

and the rocky

salient

near the Mylasa

gate already noticed, and that he should have then

descended to the shore.

A little

to the south of the

Temple of Mars

is

145

IN THE LEVANT.

row of Doric columns

in the

These columns

soil.

tablature,

thirty in

number, half buried

support their en-

still

and are evidently part of a portico or

Digging down to the base of these

stoa.

shafts,

we

found on their north side coarse tessellated pavement

Roman

of the
this

Immediately to the south of

period.

row of columns are

number of

vaults built of

rubble and concrete, which are partially visible above

the

Two

soil.

inscriptions which I found a little to

the east of the peribolos of the

a stoa dedicated to Apollo

Ptolemies,

and

it

relate to

and one of the Egyptian

Philadelphus

or

Euergetes

not improbable that the row of Doric

is

columns

probably

Mausoleum

still

standing

may

be part of this

stoa.

The date of this colonnade would thus range from

B.C. 300 to 200.

Another inscription found by

gymnasium

me

by one of
the Ptolemies, which may have been the site of Agia
Marina, where Captain Spratt placed the Mausoleum.
in the Castle mentions a

built

(See ante, p. 72.)

On
leum

the base of the conical

is

a fine theatre.

hill

above the Mauso-

The walls of the ancient

city

have been already noticed.

The plan of these fortifications was probably

designed by Mausolus, though, as Arrian states that
Alexander razed Halicarnassus to the ground, the
walls noAV existing

may be

The

chosen in reference to the natural

lines are well

the

work of a

capabilities of the site for defence,

later period.

and every point

of vantage ground seems turned to the best accomit.

The

greater part of the masonry

is

the material trachyte and limestone.

VOL.

II.

I,

polygonal, and

On

the west

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

146
side tlie

masonry

is

isodomous, and the builders have

native tufaceous rock,

availed themselves of the

easily quarried from the conical

at the foot of

The gate on the west

which stands the Mausoleum.

side leading to

hill

Myndus must, from

the lowness of

the level, have been one of the weakest parts in the

Hence

whole cu'cumvallation.
fortified

with

thi'ee

towers

this gate

still

has been

standing,

one of

more
completely to command the approach." It was on
this side that Alexander soiight to find a weak place
which

set obliquely to

is

in the wall,

the wall, in order

and here he probably directed

his real

attack, while he threatened the opposite side.

The

ancient cemeteries outside this gate, and that

of Mylasa on the eastern side, have been already

noticed, ante, pp. 62-4.

seen on the conical

in other

Greek

inside the walls

hill

cities,

Many tombs may

;

also

be

for here, as

though extramiu-al interment

seems to have been the general practice,

it

was

not enforced by penalties as in the early laws of

Rome.
Our party has been
arrival of

recently augmented

by the

Mr. R. P. PuUan, an architect sent out by

Lord Clarendon

to

make drawings and

plans of the

Mausoleum and of other ancient remains.

147

IN THE LEVANT.

XLII.
BuDRUM, November

On

tte 20tli

Budriim

the

Supply

left

the

took advantage of tkis opportunity to

me

Temple of Apollo
The Supply having con-

of the celebrated

site

at Branchidae near Miletus.

veyed

last

1857.

for Malta, to obtain a fresli stock of pro-

visions.
visit

of October

28t7i,

as far as Calymnos, I crossed over from

that island to Kara-koi, a small harbour lying south

of Cape Monodendro, in a Greek ship which

friend

Antonio

Maille

obligingly lent me.

man

the

I took with

me

with his photograjjhic apparatus, and three

Kara-koi

about three miles distant fi'om Branchida3,

called

Two

old

Corporal Spack-

Turks provided wdth picks and shovels.

is

my

sponge-merchant very

now

Geronta (pronounced Yoronda by the Turks).

giant columns supporting a piece of architrave,

and a third unfinished column are

standing of the

mighty ruins

all

that remain

Temple of Apollo, of which the

up like
shattered icebergs.
One piece of architrave which
I measured was 18 feet long.
The site bemg on a
lie

slight eminence,

ruhis,

as they originally

fell,

piled

no earth has accumulated on these

and the general structure of the temple may

be easily made out from the architectural members

thrown about

pell-mell

on the ground.

Ionic, very similar in its details to the

The Order is
Mausoleum,

but not so delicately executed, and probably of a

(II.)

L 2

148

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

later period.

I found no sculpture but part of a frieze

seemed rather coarse, and very

inferior to the sculptures of the Mausoleum.
The marbles of this temple having been measured

of gryphons,

wliich.

and delineated

the

in

much time

Dilettanti Society, I did not devote

them, the principal

of the

Ionian Antiquities

object

my

of

to

being the

visit

round the temple,

examination of the ground
and more especially the Sacred Way leading up
all

to

it.

ruins are encompassed by a wretched Greek

The

which has grown up since the Greek revoluand bears a very bad reputation as an asylum

village,

tion,

All around

and rendezvous of pirates and brigands.

village

tliis

melancholy in
soil,

an imdulating

is

plain, deserted

aspect, with a rich but neglected

its

and bounded on the land side by

On

lines.

and

the north-west

this

fine

mountain

plam descends by

was from this

side that a Sacred Way led up to the Temple from
the Port Panormus, the position of which is marked

easy slopes and ridges to the sea.

in the

On

It

Admiralty Chart.
reference

seen that this

from the

to the Plan

(Plate 20),

Way, commencing

it

will

be

at a short distance

Temple of ApoUo, may be traced

for a

length of about 580 yards in a north-west direction

towards the ancient port.

the Une of the
statues,

objects

and stone
still

side of the

than

Way

Throughout

this length

has been bounded by basements,

coffins

or

soi'i,

many

of which

remain in position on the south-west

Way.

At the

distance of rather

more

300 yards from the Temple the hue of the

Vol

Plate. 20.

BRAN C H

PLAN OF SACRED WAY

VIEW OF SACRED WAY

SECTION

OF GROUND

Dyl

Son liHK^* lothe puean

Way

is

149

THE LEVANT.

IN

marked by a ridge running

west, and deepening as

to the north-

The ground

advances.

it

to

some distance a level

North of the ridge the ground

the south of this ridge

platform or terrace.

is

for

sinks, forming a hollow.

This feature of the ground

is

shown

in the Section

and the accompanying View, taken from the south-

Way. (Plate 20.)

Along the ridge may be traced a continuous line
of wall, in fi-ont of which a number of statues are
eastern end of the

The

placed at intervals.

buried in the

statues I found partially

In some cases only the base of

soil.

the neck was visible

in others the soil did not rise

higher than the lap of the figure.

the earth, I took photographs of

The

figures

are

seated

resting on then- knees.

in

them

They

all.

chairs, their

hands

Their original height must

have averaged rather more than

heads are

away

Clearing

five

feet,

but the

now broken away.

are

all

draped in a chiton or tunic reaching

to the feet, over

close to the

which

is

body and has

a mantle.
sleeves,

The

down

tunic

fits

the side of

which runs a seam, ornamented in the case of two

of these figures

with the Ma3ander pattern,

now

nearly eSaced.

The
in

chairs are evidently imitated from the chairs

wood, and are therefore curious as examples of

the furniture of a very early period.

are

ornamented

capital of

in front

Two

of

them

with a pan' of pUasters, the

which formed a bracket, projecting at the

end of the arm of the chair about three inches.

The accompanying cuts show the form of these

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

150

which are similar to those represented on

pilasters,

Greek vases, and the ornaments

early

seem to be intended

several of the
figure

The

is

for a double lotos-flower.

statues the cushion

seated

is

the Meeander and zigzag patterns.

chair.

ornamented with
(See cuts

h, b.)

great surprise and satisfaction I found on

one of these chairs an inscription in two

taining these words
ruler of

In

on which the

shown under the arm of the

sides of these cushions are

To my

on which

"I am

Teichioussa;

lines,

con-

Chares, son of Klesis,

an ofiering to Apollo."

learnt from this brief record that the headless statue

seated before

me had

deity of Branchidse

within the territory

been dedicated to the great

by the ruler of a petty town

of Miletus, and that it repre-

sented Chares himself, for the most ancient Greek

dedicatory inscriptions
first

usually written in the

are

person, the object dedicated being supposed to

tell its

own

tale.

These primitive
generations of
the

151

THE LEVANT.

IN

men with

phrases with which

immortalize

individuals.

name by

this singular

it

is

unmentioned

Concerning the place over which

he ruled we only know that

ritory

Roman

obscm'e

discovery has been revealed to us,

Greek history.

future

and pompous

elaborate

the inscriptions of the

Chares, son of Klesis, whose

in

all

a quaint simplicity affect

mind more than the

period seek to

addressing

records

was within the terof Miletus, and on the lassie Gulf, and that

was rated among the

it

tributaries of

time of the Peloponnesian war.

that Teichioussa

may have

Athens at the

Lebas conjectvu'es

been at Kara-koi, the

162

TEA^^LS AND DISCOVERIES

bay where

I landed, because

there mention " the

but

two inscriptions found

deme of the

Teichiessians

;"

very probable that these inscriptions were

it is

brought from Branchidae.^^

The inscription on the chair is wi'itten in the

manner called by the Greeks Boustrophcdon, that is
to say, alternately, from right to left and from left
to right, the

nmning down

first line

the front of

the chair, the second along the adjacent side.

From

the character of the palasography and for other

reasons I should imagine that the date of this inscription

therefore probably the

in

Greek

The

might be about B.C. 520.

statue

most ancient extant example

art of the b'ixwv, or portrait statue,

several of the early

made such

is

though

Greek sculptors are said to have

Iconic statues.

We may

assume that in

these early attempts at portraiture no exact ren-

dering of the features and expression coivld have

been accomplished, though such works might serve

to record the general character and proportions

of the figure

the person represented must have

been identified by the inscription or by distinctive

symbols very much more than
the sculptor.

These early

by the work of
Iconic statues, it must

be remembered, were intended to

some temple

in

period

that

it

portraits

be

dedicated

was not till a much later

were executed for private

indi^aduals.'"

On
the
the

another of these statues I discovered part of

name
arm

of the sculptor

who made

of the chair.

This name, of which the

termination only remains,

it,

inscribed on

may have been Hermo-

IN

THE LEVANT.

153

demos, or Eunidemos tlien follow the words, " made

me," i.e. " tlie statue."
:

These

figures,

eight in number, were placed in

a line running fi'om

north-west at

south-east to

Way. They all rested on

the bare earth, but must originally have been set
up on pedestals. At the side of the one inscribed
watli the name of Chares was discovered the foundaAt the back of two or
tion of a square basement.
the side of the ancient

three figures in the centre of the row, and running

them, was a foundation wall of concrete

parallel to

and rubble, apparently of Byzantine construction.

All the eight figures

with one exception were

Digging to the north-east of the row, I

male.

dis-

covered two more statues lying half concealed in

the

Of these one was a female

soil.

figure, of

the head has been broken away.

retains

its

which

The other

head, though the features are

still

utterly

This also appears to be a female figure

defaced.

Both these

the hair flows in long tresses.

figures

are similar in attitude and costume to those already

described.

In the type and attitude of

all

these statues and in

much which

the composition of the drapery there

is

reminds us of Egyjitian sculpture.

The arms

are

placed close to the sides, the jjalms of the hands

resting on

the knees

the shoulders very broad

the folds of the di'apery are expressed by parallel

stripes

and

composition
first

sight

really

is

channellings,

of vertical

the sculpture

for the

arranged

and

oblique

in

a formal

lines.

appears ruder than

main points

in the

At
it

anatomy are

154

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

indicated,

however

sliglitly,

tion

and exaggeration of

rian

and early Greek

witliout tliat accumula-

details so general in

Assy-

subdued treatment

Tliis

art,

anatomy gives breadth and repose to these

figures, and suggests the idea that they were executed by artists who had studied in Egypt.
There is nothing a j^^iori improbable in such an
assumption. We know that a connection between
of

tlie

Asia Minor and Egypt had been established in the

reign of Psammetichosl.

who maintained a large force

of Ionian and Oarian mercenaries.

The importance of

the trade between Egypt and the Greek colonies of

the west coast of Asia Minor led to the establish-

ment of an Hellenic factory at Naukratis in the

reign of Amasis
the costly dedications made to
Hellenic deities by Neco at Branchidfe and by
Amasis at Lindos are further evidences of the
;

friendly relations

which those monarchs maintained

Moreover,

with the Asiatic Greeks.

known

tradition preserved

believed, the

Samian

if

by Diodorus

sculptors,

the wellis

to be

Theodoros and

his

brother Telekles studied in Egypt, and thence derived a canon of proportions which enabled them,

though hving in separate

same
at

places, to

statue, half of which, executed

Samos, was found to

made by

tally

work

at the

by Theodoros

with the other half

Telekles at Ejjhesos.

It has

been some-

what the fashion among recent writers on Greek

art to dismiss this story as mere legend f but I see
no reason
fact

for doubting that it embodies the general

that certain Greek sculptors of Asia Minor

studied

the priuciples

of

theii'

art

in

Egypt as

;;

THE LEVANT.

IN

155

early as the seventh, oi% perhaps, the eighth cen-

tury B.C.

The

statues at Branchida3

precisely the characteristics

seem

me

to

to present

which might be expected

works of a school of sculptors thus educated

while the jjredominant im]3ression which these

in the
for

works produce on the mind

at first sight

resemblance to Egyjjtian sculptures,

then*

is

we may

detect

them certain peculiarities in the general treatment, and in the details of the costume and
ornaments, which prove them to be the work of
in

Hellenic artists.

At

the distance of 118 paces to the north-west

of the row of statues, I found a female

sjjhinx

lying above ground, greatly mutilated, and a lion

nearly buried in the

The

lion,

which

is

soil,

both of white marble.

couching,

is

rudely sculptured,

but with a certain normal grandeur of conception.

The repose of the folded

teristic

of the animal.

along his back

many

paws
His head
fore

is

an

inscription

is

very charac-

is

broken

off

five

lines,

in

of the letters of which are nearly obliterated

by long exposure

to the weather.

this inscription for

After studjang

about ten days in every variety

of light, I succeeded in reading most of the words.

The

inscription

is

a dedication of certain statues,

The names of the

as a tenth to

Apollo.

cators, five in

number, are given.

that these persons were

citizens

dedi-

It is probable

of Miletus, not

only on account of the vicinity of this

city,

but be-

cause two of the names in this inscription, Thales and

Hegesander, are known to have been borne by Mile-

156

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

sians.

It is interesting to

compare the palseograpliy

of this dedication with that of the rock-cut inscription at Aboo-Simbul, in Nubia, placed there by the

Greek mercenaries who

king of Egypt.

sei'ved

with Psammetichos,

whether the king

It is not certain

named in this Nubian inscription is Psammetichos I.,

who reig-ned fi^om B.C. 664^ to B.C. 610, or PsamII., whose
date is B.C. 695 to 589.
But as either the one or the other of these two
monarchs is certainly referred to in this inscription,
it may be assigned to a date ranging from Olympiad
40 to 48 and in the forms of the letters and mode

metichos

of writing
the

it

presents so striking a resemblance with

dedication

on the Branchidse

latter inscription

lion,

that this

can hardly be attributed to a later

date than Olympiad 60.

The dedication bv Chares on the

less

ancient,

At any

and

rate, it

date

may be

is

certainly

about B.C. 520.

cannot be later than the date of the

destruction of the

which, whether

its

statue

it

Temple of Apollo at Branchidse,

was the act of Darius Hystaspes,

or of Xerxes, certainly took place before the close of

the Persian war."

In the wall of a house near the Sacred

Way

is

made by Histiaios.
This may be the celebrated Milesian who
brought about the Ionian revolt. The letters are
the fragment of another dedication

of the same period as in the dedication by Chares.

When

Sir William Cell visited Branchidse early in

this century,

he found on the Sacred

Way

the lower

part of a seated figure, on the side of the chair of

which was a dedication by one Hermesianax of

IN

157

THE LEVANT.

now

This has

certain objects, probably statues.

There can hardly be a doubt that

disappeared.

all

these statues were originally arranged so as to form

an avenue along the Sacred "Way leading from the

Port Panormos to the Temple of Apollo.

Could

these old headless figures speak, they might

tell

something more interesting than the bare

fact of

on

inscribed

dedication

their

through this very avenue

marble

the

may have

us

for

passed the

envoys sent by Croesus to consult the most famous

of Asiatic oracles

which

and the sacrilegious Persian band

plundered and burnt the

Branchida?, and carried

ofi"

first

the statue of the god

to Susiana, must have seen these very

may have

temple at

figures,

and

spared them as too insignificant for the

vengeance of the Great King.

After examining the Sacred

Way,

I spent a

days in copying inscriptions in the village of

and

its

environs.

Some

few

Geronta

of these, which are given in

Bockh's great work, have

now

disappeared

but in

the walls of the churches and houses are numbers

which have never been published.

ments some curious information

From these
is

docu-

to be gathered

respecting the Temple of Apollo, the ofierings dedicated there, and the functions of

who

originally

its

formed a Sacred Gens,

all

ministers,

of

whom

claimed descent from Branchos, the mythic founder

of the temple.
scriptions

is

The most

interesting of these in-

a letter fi'om Seleukos

II.,

king of Syria,

list

of gold and silver anathemata dedicated

for the use

of the temple by that monarch and his

giving a

brother, Antiochos Hierax.

In this document the

'

158

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

weight of each object

carefuHy registered.

is

Among

the articles enumerated are drinking-cups fashioned

in

those fantastic forms of which Athenseus has

the names, and some few

indi;striously collected

specimens of which have been discovered in the

celebrated Royal

Tomb

near Kertch.

In other inscriptions given by Bockh are recorded

similar costly dedications

by Prusias

II.,

king of

Bithynia, and by envoys from one of the Egyptian

Ptolemies

and in an inscription foimd by

me

is

mention of the sending of an envoy sent to the

court of Ptolemy son of Auletes at Alexandria, and
of his bringing back a large quantity of ivory and
a door, probably, of

mighty

pile of ruins

silver.'

on the

sumptuous

relic of these

site

Perhaps under the

of this temple some

offerings

may

still

remain.

Most of the inscriptions relate to the priests of

the Temple of Apollo, and of other temples at
BranchidfB.
The Tr^ocfir^rijj, whose office must have
been not to prophesy, but to announce the

oracle, is

constantly mentioned.

The sacred

gens

who

claimed descent from Bran-

ches, the mythic founder of the temple, and formed

its original

hierarchy, were transplanted

by Xerxes,

together with the statue of the god, to Susiana,

where

tlieir

descendants were found by Alexander

the Great, who, with a strange and unaccoimtable

fanaticism,

is

said to

have put them to death in

punishment of the apostasy of their forefathers. We

have no information how the hierarchy thus cut off was

renewed

but

it is

evident from the inscriptions that

the later priesthood formed a distinct gens, in which

159

IN THE LEVANT.

same

the

were

offices,

filled

tliougli not, perhaps,

by successive generations.

hereditary,

The second

temple at Branchidje was probably begun soon after

the Persian war.

Its architects

we have no

Daphnis, whose date

determining."^

were Paionios and

exact

means of

Judging from the character of the

architecture, which, as

have already remarked,

seems of rather a later date than the Mausoleum, I

should think

it

probable that the building of

tliis

temple was continued as late as the time of Seleucus

Nicator,

who restored

to

the colossal bronze statue

it

of Apollo by Kanachos, which

to

Susa by Xerxes

had been carried

after his defeat in

ofi"

Greece.

The Hieron
cinct

of the Temple of Apollo was a preof great extent, and contained according to

Strabo a large village, in which, no doubt, were

accommodated the many strangers who came to

consult the oracle."*
"Within the same precinct
were celebrated public games, styled in inscriptions
the Great Didymeia.

name

It is possible that the

of this place, Geronta or Yoronda,

corruption of the

My

further

word

modern

may be

'Ispov.

researches

at

Geronta were

cut

short by a sharp attack of intermittent fever, for

which the place

has

a l^ad

reputation

at

this

Having a good supply of quinine with, me,

I soon got well enough to undertake the journey
back to Budrum. Crossing the Gulf of Mendeliah,
season.

we landed
whence
of

my

at the narrowest part of the isthmus,

pushed on to Budrum on foot with one

attendant Turks, leaving Corporal Spackman

in charge of the

baggage

till

horses could be sent

160

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

to him.

two hours

I arrived here about

Supply had come in from Malta.

after the

Our meeting was

a very merry one, and I rejoiced to find that

requisitions for stores

had been

all

my

carefully attended

by the Admiral Superintendent and War-oflBce

to

at Malta,

and that we are

com-

in a condition to

mence a new campaign, well furnished with timber,

iron, rope, trucks, and everything we are likely
to run short of.
As we intend to try our luck at
Cnidus this winter, and the situation
exposed for
eight

put together.
Cnidus

at

under canvas, I made requisition for

bound with hoop

bundles

much

too

Crimean huts, which have been sent

Supply,
pact

life

is

of

planks,

We

early

hope

in

iron

and

month.

the

many com-

ready

establish

to

next

into
all

in

be

to

om^selves

Smith

will

remain in charge of the Budrum diggings, with

Corporal Jenkins as his adjutant, and the Supply

make Budrum her permanent winter anchorage,

visiting Cnidus every month to see how we are
will

getting on, and thus forming a floatmg base of

operations for both of the parties on shore.

XLIII.
Ruins of Cnidus,

On

the 10th of this

Budriim

month

Dec. 26, 1857.

was conveyed from

to this place in the Supply, with

party, consisting of
tect attached to the

a select

Mr. K. P. PuUan, the

expedition

archi-

the carpenter of

161

IN THE LEVANT.

the

Supply

are

assigned to

sappers,

We

and

a sergeant

one

marines,

six

wlio

party as a guard, and two

tlie

a pliotograplier, the other a

mason.

landed in the teeth of a bitter north wind.

The anchorage

not very

is

bour very shallow, with no

mauasred to

on

ecet

and

safe,

har-

the

However, we

pier.

shore the timbers

of six of

our huts before the Supply was forced to leave

us

take shelter in the snug bay of Budrum.

to

Having chosen a
jperiholos of

an encampment within the

site for

a temple, on the shore near the isthmus

Plan of Cnidus, Plate 21), we proceeded to put

one of our huts together. After living for a year
(see

in the old rat-ridden

enjoyment

konak

Budrmn,

at

it

real

is

by

have a night's rest unbroken

to

disturbances from four-footed visitors.

We
wall,

are surrounding our

and intend

though
it

to

keep a

little

strict

encampment with a
watch at night

do not think an attack of pirates

might occur

we were

if

islands within one or

for

likely, still

There are many

careless.

two days'

sail

of Cape Crio,

which coidd muster thirty or forty armed ruffians

an enterprise ; and

for such

of Turkey I have

in

my

short experience

known whole towns

surprised and

plundered by bands not more numerous, for want of

a sentry at night.

There

is

something very attractive in

the dehcious freshness

the scenery,

the

stir

of the

and

afr,

activity

this place

the beauty of
of

our

Uttle

colony in the midst of such loneliness and ruin,

are a pleasant
life

change

for the last twelve

VOL.

II.

after the

months.

monotony of our

The sea-view here

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

1G2
is

mucli more lively than at Budrum, as we have a

glimpse of aU that passes up and

down on

the great

highway between the Dardanelles and Rhodes. The

French and Austrian steamers going to and fro with
letters,

almost within hail of us, are a cheerful sight,

one of the pleasantest that can gladden the heart of

an

The other day

exile.

cutting out

my own

had the

satisfaction of

going up

letters fi'om a caiqiie

with them to Budi'um, but driven in here by contrary

winds.

have

had a

lately

character,

who

rupavvog.

His name

from a remarkable

visit

an ancient

rules this peninsula like

is

Mehemet

of a place called Datscha,

Ali

he

is

Aga

halfway between Cape

Crio and Djova, and near the site of the ancient

Acanthus.

Smith paid him a

visit

when we purchased some timber

an

in the

autumn,

of him.

He

Aga, and can trace his descent

Beys

for

several

generations.

He

is

from Dere
hves in pa-

triarchal fashion, with four harems, flocks, herds,

bee-hives, fig-trees,

progeny

is

and gardens innumerable.

numerous that he

so

is

the

father of half the children in his village

the off'spring of concubines, run

about

His

putative
all

these,

in

rags,

while the rights of inheritance are reserved for the

two recognized
Circassian,

sons, both children of a beautiful

a present from Hahl Pasha, the late

brother-in-law of the Sultan, in exchange for a landed

estate in Cos.

Mehemet Ali, though he possesses four harems and

much wealth, is not, like most rich Turks, devovu-ed
by indolence.

He

is

a shrewd, hard-headed

man

of

1G3

IN THE LEVAi^T.

who ought

business,
di'ives

to have been a Scotchman.

an active trade

He

Smyrna, seUing the pro-

-with

duce of his territory to the great BngUsh merchant

Mr. Whittall, of whose friendship he

His activity both of mind and body
for

He

an Oriental.

employs

all

shoe-making, and gun-making

history, of

justly proud.

most remarkable

his leism'e in reading,

Smith saw some very

He

manufactured by him.

fair locks

is

is

is

very fond of

which he has got gUmpses here and

there,

through the study of Tm-kish chronicles, wliich,

like

the old Monkish annals, begin with Creation and go

down

throuarh Greek

and Roman annals to contem-

porary times, huddling everything in one confused

narrative.

Yesterday he rather astonished

me by

talking about Iskander, son of Philip (Alexander

the Great), Plato, Aristotle, and Bokrat (Hippokrates),

all

whom

of

he conceived to have hved in

the same generation, and to

He had

intimate terms.

have been on very

that restless inquisitive-

ness about general knowledge which characterizes

the Greek often, but rarely the Turk.

had just

London News, with coloured

I gave him
of Delhi and other Indian cities.
he asked the name of each city, and, taking-

received the Illustrated

piiuts

these

out his reed pen fi'om his gu'dle, wrote

of the picture, adding

a descriptive

it

on the top

title,

which

embodied such scanty information about the place

as I

was

able to give him.

I asked

"Never

him

since

they stripped
that

my

father

if

my
me

he had ever been to Stamboul

father's death!"

had

of

all

left

my

he said

possessions,

no heir."

"then

declaiming

164

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES

" Could sixcli a wrong be committed now ?" I said.

" No," lie said, " not since the Tanzimat property
;

cannot be openly confiscated, though doubtless

injustice

may be committed through

much

the corruption

of Pashas and Cadis."

The

rural

of

life

Mehemet

Ali has given his

ners a certain homehness which was to

refreshing, after the fade

mo

It

rather

compUments and vapid

remarks which generally issue from the

official

man-

lips

of

Turks.

seemed to me

had the

as if for the first time I

opportunity of studying a real Turkish country gentleman,

full

of shrewd observation and mother wit,

which he exercised

amusing way on

in

his suite.

good-natured and very

These consist of a Cadi,

a grey-headed Imam, the head

bouring

village,

man

of

a neigh-

and a sort of nondescript Greek, who

played the part of souffredoideur or toady.

always making one of these his butt

course, got the worst of

it.

He

He was

the Greek, of

imitated the

manner

which they make the sign of the

cross, and the

"
genuflections to the Panagia.
Let us make a Mussulman of Demetri," he said ; " I am sure he wishes

in

in his heart

it

to-morrow we

will

perform the usual

Poor Demetri simpered and looked amiable.

wonder what private end he was serving by eating

rite."

so

much dh't.
Mehemet Ali

usually travels

about

his

small

kingdom accompanied by his Cadi,

Imam, and other cabinet ministers, all mounted
on small mountain horses
then come three or
four peasant attendants, with long guns, some
peninsular

IN

few of

wliicli are

165

THE LEVANT.

detonators of French manufac-

They shoot
partridges as they go along, and when they come to
the coast, Mehemet Ah takes from the hand of an
ture

rest the old flint-and-steel.

tlie

attendant a long reed fishing-rod with tackle maniifactui'ed at Trieste,

and angles

As for
bound to

for a dinner.

other provisions, the villages en route are

provide them.

Mehemet
fectly

Ali has one very great merit

aware that an Englishman must

he

is

eat.

In the

per-

present destitution of the Tm-kish provinces, a party

Enghshmen

of hungry

are regarded

by the natives as

The

a nuisance, only less than that of the locusts.

difficvdties

Budrum

of victuaUing our small messes at

have required incessant trouble, much of which

naturally

falls

upon me.

had not been two days

encamped here before a messenger an^ived with ten

fowls

Ah's

danghng from
first

his horse's crupper,

present to the colony.

When

Mehemet

he

amved

came a sheep, a good supply of eggs,

honey, and figs. This morning we had a long and
most interesting conversation on the subject of bullocks and vegetables, a question of the greatest
himself, there

importance, as

oiu'

on

Now

salt

meat.

small party cannot hve for ever

you may, perhaps, ask why does

show so much fiiendship for me ? He

has two very good reasons.
Eirst, he wants stone
from Cnidus to build a mosque with, which he hopes
to obtain more easily through our excavations
and

Mehemet

Ali

secondly, he confided to

me

certain enemies at Muglila,

morning that he has

who must be put down by
this

the intervention of the Pasha of Smyrna. " I dare not

TEAVELS AND DISCOVDEIES

166

complain of the wrong that has been done me, except

through a Consul
is

they would

crush

no grade of society in Turkey

in

me

which the habit

of inviting foreign intervention does

not prevail.

I never refuse to help people if they have

case

such good

ofl&ces give

much

There

!"

any real

indirect influence

and enable me to work the expedition far more

economically and efficiently. I wonder how many
days I might have waited for eggs and mutton

Mehemet Ah had not had

On

him

visitino;

first

if

a o-rievance at Muo-hla
in

the raorninof

found

him reading the Koran, a ceremony with which

he always begins the day.
He showed me the
book with great pride it was rather a handsome
manuscript. Forgetting that I was in the presence
of a Mussidman, I put out my hand to take hold of

the volume,
case,

it

glided suddenly into

its

leather

narrowly escaping pollution from the touch

The old fanaticism

of Giaour.
yet,

when

is

not quite dead

though they do condescend to ask

for British

protection.

Before taking leave of me,

Mehemet

Ali paid a

He watched their work

too, am a carpenter " he

visit to the carpenters.

a keen interest.
taking up a saw.
the hut

he
if

I,

I offered

dechned

construction here

Perhaps

"

!"

it.

he

with
said,

him a printed plan of

" I have already got the

said, pointing to his forehead.

he had had the chance,

this obscure

might have been a Peter the Great for

might have introduced the usefid

his country,

arts.

Aga
and

When Smith

was staying with him, he gave him the dimensions

of the dome of the mosque he was about to build.

167

IN THE LEVANT.

and asked liim how many stones of a given size lie

would require for it. After some little trouble Smith
solved the problem, and then found that
Ali had calculated
rule of
It is

it

in his

Mehemet

head correctly by some

thumb.
time to wind up this description of

nearest neighbour at Cnidus.

too long on

my

Perhaps I have dwelt

so insignificant a

personage,

but I

man

such a

thought the phenomenon of such a

in

more so because few

the secliided and barbarous

place worth noting, and the

travellers
district

have visited

where he exercises patriarchal sway.

XLIV.
Ruins of Cnidus, March

The winter here

10,

since our arrival has been one of

extraordinary severity, and from time to

Crimean north wind sweeping with

over the

naked

1858.

time a

relentless fury

promontory where we

are

en-

camped, spUt the half-inch planking of our huts, and

penetrated the very

no

stoves,

marrow of our bones.

and the nights have been so

have sometimes

felt

tent where our

little

We

have

cold, that I

tempted to take refuge in the

flock of sheep are folded to

them from the jackals, who howl round our

encampment all night. This year the wolves have
been driven by hunger to the very end of this peninsula, and have devoured two horses within two
hours' distance of this place.
The anchorage here
protect

168
is

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

very dangerous in winter, and the

only pay us flying

visits,

main more than an

Supply can

seldom ventuinng to re-

two

horn- or

so stormy a

ofi"

coast.

Notwithstanding these

managed

to put

efficiency a

little difficulties,

up our huts, to

number

of native

we have

drill into tolerable

workmen

sufficient for

our present operations, and to construct a pier in

the

southern harbour, which was absolutely ne-

cessary to

heavy

enable

us

to

embark and disembark

cases.

Before giving an account of the excavations in

which we have been engaged here,

it

may be

as well

to give a general sketch of the topography of the

ancient city.

{See Plate 21.)

Cnidus, hke Mytilene, Myndus, and

Hellenic
close

to

cities,

was

other

the mainland as to form two harbours,

connected by a narrow
called

many

on an island so

originally built

strait

such as the Greeks

an Euripos.

This island, the ancient Triopion,

rising abruptly

is

a lofty rock,

from a low isthmus, by which

it is

now

united to the western extremity of the Doric Chersonese.

Projecting far beyond the adjacent coast

of Asia Minor, this bold headland,

Crio, forms a

well-known seamark

now

called

Cape

for the navigators

of the Archipelago, and in bad weather small craft

find great difficulty in doubling
earliest period of Phoenician
tion,

it.

Hence, from the

and Hellenic naviga-

wind-bound mariners must have constantly

taken refuge behind the headland, which,

offi^ring to

the sea outside a line of sheer precipices, descends

\
-.

*..,

b=^

^y

^rtiP'^

IN THE LEVANT.

''

169

by a gradual slope down to

the still water now divided by the isthmus. The
natiu-al shelter thus aflbrded was converted by the
Greeks into two harbours, protected by moles. In
on

its

inner

side

the largest of these two harbours one of the moles

by which

was shut

it

in

from the south-east may

of stone
fifty

tons,

of which

and as

it

its

is

still

some of the blocks

constructed must weigh

be seen in a nearly perfect state

foundations have been laid in

it must have been a work of

The smaller harbour opens to the north-

nearly 100 feet of water,

great cost.
west, and

is

neai'ly closed

out from the mainland.

Tupt^v

x'KsKTTos

by a broad quay jutting

This

evidently the

is

mentioned by Strabo, the mouth of

which must have been defended in antiquity by a

chain.

To

the north-east these harbours are shut in by

the mainland, which rises by a gradual slope to the

foot of a steep ridge of limestone.

The

slope of the mainland confronts the opposite

slope of the peninsula, forming a kind of natural

counterpart

and

it

was on these two opposed slopes

that the ancient city was built, rising on a succession

of natural terraces from the water's edge.

It is probable that here, as at Halicarnassus, the

peninsula, being

more

easily defensible,

pied, and that the settlers gradually

was first occu-

extended their city

over the opposite part of the mainland.

limits are clearly

marked out by the

Its ultimate

walls,

which are

in nearly as perfect a state here as at Halicarnassus.

On

the Triopian peninsula they inclose about two-

thirds

of

the ancient island,

commencing

at

its

170

TBAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

eastern

extremity, outside

tlie

The

great mole.

line of defence is carried along the summit of the

mountain ridge on the south, and thence down

the

to

mouth of the smaller harbour, which

defended by a

is

semicircular tower, remarkable for

the sohdity and preservation of

its

On

masonry.

the continent the limestone ridge, ascending gradually from the shore of the smaller harbour, shuts

on the north, separating it from a steep

which may be considered as the fosse of
natural Une of defence.
The wall of the city,

in the city
ravine,
this

commencing from the mouth of the smaller harbour,

is carried along this line to the point where the ridge
terminates on the east in a kind of natural bastion

defended by sheer precipices.

This position has been converted into an Acroof great strength, which juts out from the
main hne of circmnvallation, defending the north-east
polis

angle of the

On

the

city.

Acropolis

south this

terminates

sheer precipice, below which the ground

steep slope to the sea.

from the foot of

the water's edge

about 300 yards to the east of the mole.

it

meets

in a

The wall may be traced

this precipice to

a sea wall,

in

falls

which

is

Here

continued from this

point along the northern shore of both harbours

to the western extremity .of the land wall.

In the year 1812, when Cnidus was visited by a

mission from the Dilettanti Society, the rums were

probably much more extensive than at present.

the accessibihty of

its

From

harbours, this site has been

much resorted to by Tm'ks and Greeks

as a quarry for

IN

171

THE LEVANT.

About twenty years ago, several

sliiploads of marble were removed from Cnidus by
order of Meliemet Ali, Paslia of Egypt, wbo employed them in tlie construction of a new palace.
building purposes.

Notwitlistanding

tliis

extensive spoliation,

tlie

ruins

cover a large area, and the general plan of the city

can be easily made out.

It rose fi'om the opposite

shores of the harbours in a succession of terraces,

at right angles to
steps,

still

which are

streets

and

flights of

These

very clearly to be traced out.

terraces are continued

up

to the very foot of the

limestone range, above which line the steepness of

the slope and the absence of

admitted of then" formation.

soil

The most conspicuous

feature in the whole topography

western

part of

the

Temple " in the Plan.

city,

would hardly have

is

a platform in the

marked

" Corinthian

This has been bounded on

the south by a Doric portico, the ruins of which

are lying in situ, and which

must have been of very

noble projDortions.

In the centre of the platform are the ruins of a

small Corinthian temple, on the west an

Odeum,

and on the shore below the periholos of a larger

temple intermixed with those of a Byzantine chm^ch.

Immediately to the east of this

stiU tolerably perfect,

i)eriholos is a theatre

and to the west a long

street

leading straight up from the isthmus to a gate in the

northern waU.

To

the west of this street are the ruins of a small

Doric temple on the shore of the small harbom-, and

beyond

this

on the same shore a square area inclosed

with a colonnade, which was probably the Agora.

172

On

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

the quay at the head of the small harboiir are

foundations of some large building.

In proceeding northward along the street already

noticed, which leads from the isthmus to the city
gate, nothing but Byzantine ruins

ground

meet the eye. The

covered with dense brushwood,

is

amid

which appear at intervals the fragments of many

vaulted roofs built of concrete and nibble, which

have

On

fallen in solid masses.

the north a street, intersecting at right angles

the street already described, appears to have tra-

versed the whole length of the city about midway

between the harbour and the

fortified heights above,

leading to a gate in the eastern wall.

To

the north of this street

largest theatre in Cnidus,

now

is

the

site of

nearly stripped of

the
its

masonry, and east of this theatre a road leading by

a zigzag ascent to the Acropolis.

The eastern part

of the city abounds less in ruins than the western

part,

and from

little built

its

great steepness could have been

on.

Passing across the isthmus by some foundations

which probably mark the

we come

site of

an ancient bridge,

to the peninsula, once an island.

Here are

scarcely any architectiu-al remains above the surface,

except a succession of parallel terrace walls con-

nected at intervals by flights of steps.

The promontory

at the eastern extremity of this

peninsula bends round,

forming a small bay or

recess in the harbom*.

This part of the port

south, and,

when

is

well sheltered from the

the mole was perfect, must have

IN

TUE LEVANT.

173

afforded safe and convenient anchorage close into

shore.

Hence the rock has been

levelled here, so

as to form a broad quay for the disembarkation of

merchandise.

The

greater part of the ruins

stiU visible

on

the site of Cnidus seem to be of a late period, for

Cnidus, like most cities on the west coast of Asia

Minor, seems to have unhappily been " repaired and
beautified " under

began

Roman

administration.

by making a small excavation

theatre near the southern port, a plan and section

of which
lished

is

given in the Ionian Antiquities pub-

by the Dilettanti

Society.''^

Commencing

IZ- j

pr oscenium!

inside the Scene near its western extremity, I con-

tinued the cutting in a westerly direction, so as to

lay bare the

end wall of the cavea, B, which here,

was usually the case in Asiatic theatres, runs

obliquely to the scene. The accompanying cut shows

as

the result of the excavation.

174

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

At B was a stone

witli a socket for the

a gate, and opposite to

in the

it,

hinge of

end wall of the

cavea, a hole cut in the face of one of the stones,

into which the bolt of the gate

Near

this

spot was

the base of a statue

the Cnidian people
front of the Scene,

must have passed.

a rough-hewn stone chair and
inscribed with a dedication by
to one Juha Epianassa.
In
and parallel to it, I found two

Koman

rubble walls,

construction.

These appeared to be part of the

C,

of

late

basement of some building

of the

or

erected

Byzantine

on the

site

Scene at a late period, the ground floor

of which was approached by a flight of steps,

D D,

leading up from the level of the orchestra.

Con-

tinuing westward from this

wall of the cavea, I

in

came

point along the end

to a flight of steps

marked

the plan, which led to a Corinthian portico,

the ruins of which were found lying on the steps in

the position, probably, in which they originally

This portico was evidently of a late period.

opened the vomitory of the theatre on

fell.

I also

this side.

As this excavation did not yield much, except a

few Greek inscriptions of shght interest and some
lamps and terra-cottas of the Roman period, I soon
abandoned

it.

Examining the Admiralty Chart of Cnidus, I

observed that a particular spot imder the AcropoUs
is

noted as containing statues.

I have already noticed that the approach to the

Acropolis from the south

is

by a zigzag road,

to the

east of the great theatre.

Immediately to the east of

this

road the southern

IN THE LEVANT.

175

face of tlie Acropolis terminates abrui^tly in a sheer

precipice, at the foot of

which an

artificial

platform,

rather more than 85 paces in length, and supported

on three

hj a wall of massive polygonal

sides

masonry, juts out

The

mountain.

spot

Admiralty Chart

a pier from the side of the

like

is

" statues "

marked

in the

near the eastern boundary of

this platform.

The
north

jjrecipice

may

which bounds

this platform

on the

be described as a natural wall of lime-

stone rock, from 50 to 70 feet high, and running

nearly east and west for about 320

This wall

feet.

slopes at an angle of 79 with such regularity as to

suggest the idea that

hand of man.

it

has been scarped by the

This impression

confirmed by the

is

fact that in the steep face of the

rock three niches

are cut for the reception of statues.

More exact examination of

this

site,

however,

has proved that this escarp was a natural formation.

The

first

object which caught

this ground,

my eye

was a small Greek

stele

on exploring

inscribed with

a dedication, lying near the eastern wall of the

platform.

Close to this was the statue noticed in the Ionian

Antiquities, a di'aped female figure, seated in a chair,

headless,

the

and nearly covered with

earth.

commenced an excavation near the stele, and in

course of half an horn- came upon a small

statuette, lying only a

of the

soil,

and

found broken

ofi"

few inches below the surface

perfect,

all

close by.

female figure, wearing the

but the head, which I

It represents a

tall cylindrical

draped

head-dress.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

176
which, from
called

its

resemblance to a corn-measure,

modms, and holding

granate flower.

which are very

in her right

is

hand a pome-

smile plays over the features,

like those of Aphrodite.

These symbols, and the peculiar composition of

the drapery, at once enabled

me

to recognize in

tliis

figure the type of Proserpine.^"

All

round

this statuette

of black glazed ware.

were a number of lamps

Digging on and continuing

to find lamps, I laid bare a

number of rough founda-

tion-walls intersecting each other at right angles, so

as to form a group of small cells or compartments.

Some

of these had been fined with stucco.

Through-

out these enclosures I found black lamps intermixed

with small terra-cotta figures, representing yoTing

girls

bearing pitchers of water

hjdroplioroi

unbroken

The

on

theii*

heads,

and with these remains were several

ridge-tiles.

walls of these enclosures were built in the

The material

roughest manner without cement.

was mostly rubble

stone, evidently,

squared blocks of tertiary lime-

from some previous building, were

occasionaUy used in the courses.

Some

of these

blocks were faced with stucco.

Continuing the excavation westward from this

group of ceUs, I came to a hmestone base intended

On it was an inscripfor the reception of a statue.
tion in elegiac verse, recording the dedication of a

temple,

olnog,

and a

statue, ayaX/^a, to

Demeter and

Persephone by Chrysina, wife of Hippokrates and

mother of Chrysogone.
It is further stated that this dedication

was made

IN

THE LEVANT.

177

god Hermes, who, appearing

in obedience to the

in

a dream, declared to Chrysina that she should be the

priestess of these goddesses at a place caUed Tathne.

On

reading

this

entertamed no

inscription,

which I was exploring.

On the veiy platform on which I then stood
had once been a temple, dedicated to Demeter
doubt that

it

related to the site

and Persephone, siuTounded by

its

])enholos,

or

and there can hardly be a doubt

that the name of this site was the Tathne mentioned
sacred precinct

in the inscription.

Chance having thus as

ancient sanctuary in

proceed

fiu'ther in

my

were put the key of this

it

hand, I was encouraged to

exploring the

site.

Close to this base I found a group of fragments of

scidpture in white marble,

among which were a

beautiful head, probably of Persephone, rather under

life-size

a hand and arm of a yoimg

girl

a ter-

minal figm-e, fi'om which the head had been broken

off";

and a veiled female head, which to

satisfaction I fitted

figure

figiu'e

my

first

discovery.

made it certaia that this

Demeter. The features have the

of the head

represents

matured and perfect beauty which

of Proserpine

great

on to the neck of the seated

which had been

The addition

my

a divine calm

features, such as

we may

is

befits the

mother

diffused over the

conceive the goddess to

have worn on receiving back from Hades her longlost daughter.

The back of this statue is left flat, a proof that it

must have been placed in a niche. When seen on the
level of the eye, the

TOL.

II.

body

exhibits certain deviations

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

178

from the usual standard of proportions

deviations

may be accounted

for

but these

by the position of
The

the statue in a niche far above the spectator.

height of this statue

is

rather

more than

five feet.

Close to the head I foimd another base, inscribed

with a dedication to Demeter and Persephone by a

lady

named

Plathainis.

called thank-offerings

The

objects dedicated are

and atonements.

Near these marbles

I found

in

several

places

portions of thin sheets of lead, broken and doubled

On

up.

being unrolled, these sheets proved to be

inscribed with

tablets,

imprecations in the

name

of Demeter, Persephone, Pluto, and other Infernal

In each inscription are specified the

Deities.

of

name

the person on whose head the imprecation

is

drawn
Most of these tablets appear to have been
dedicated by Cnidian women. The gi-ievous offfences

invoked, and the cause of offence which had

it

forth.

which

called forth such

tremendous comminations

are of several kinds.

One

lady denounces the person

who had

stolen

her bracelet, and adds, by way of postscript, an

imprecation on any one

her with

The
deposit

who may have

defi'auded

false weights.

non-restoration of garments lost or

is

made the

left in

subject of another imprecation.

Other accusations are of a more serious nature.

A certain Nakon, husband of a lady called Prosodion, seems to have been seduced fi'om his domestic

allegiance by

some Cnidian

to the Infernal
injured

Lais,

who

is

duly devoted

Deities in consequence.

Another

matron invokes a curse on the head of

179

IN THE LEVANT.

who has accused her of administermg

her husband. The non-restitution of a

the person

poison to

deposit forms the subject of two other inscriptions.

In

these inscriptions a deprecatory clause

all

by which

inserted,

it

author of the curse from

is

intended to exempt the

is

be involved

liability to

all

in its consequences.

In the character
written thei'e

is

in

which these

insci'iptions are

an approximation to the more cursive

form of the Greek

papyi'i of the Ptolemaic period.

The language contains many errors, both in grammar and orthography, such as a regular lapidary
would not have committed.

This

is

the papyi'i of the Ptolemaic period.

also the case in

I

am

inclmed

to think that the date of these tablets falls some-

where between B.C. 200 and B.C. 100.

however, be of the

Roman

Such maledictory

period.

inscriptions, called defixiones or

formed part of the system of ancient

xaraSfo-jaoi,

and

magic,

They may,

were

probably in

use

among

Greeks from an early period, as there

to

them

in

two passages

of

Plato.

the

is

allusion

cm-ious

and weU-known instance of the use of such magical

devices

is

recorded by Tacitus in his Annals.

In

describing the last illness and death of Germanicus,

he states that there were found concealed

the walls and floor of his house remains of

bodies, with certain

mina

et

devotiones,

inscribed on leaden

in

human

poems and imprecations, carand the name of Germanicus

tablets.

these magical mstruments

It

was thought that

were employed by Piso

to compass the death of his enemy.

N 2

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

180

Several tablets similar to those found in

tlie

temenos

have been discovered at Athens, Alexandria, and

Cuma.
tombs

All these, probably,

;

those foimd by

the only ones

the

site

known

me

had been deposited

in

at Cnidus are, I beheve,

to have been obtained from

of an ancient temple.^'

my

Continuing

excavations westward along the

came to a mass of squared stones

and rubble, on removing which the walls of a small
chamber became visible, nearly on a level with the
sm-face of the groimd.
This chamber was of an
eUiptical form, and built of tertiary hmestone blocks
without mortar. The joints of the masonry were
foot of the scarp, I

aU more or

and hence

less disturbed, as if

am

by an earthquake

inclined to think that the original

it was so distirrbed,
dimensions of the
The
was
interior were nine feet in the longest diameter. The
mass of stones and rubble with which it was blocked
up appeared to be the ruins of the roof, which was

form of the chamber, before

circular,

not

elliptical.

probably an example of Egyptian vaulting.

On
came

clearing
to

away

this

superincumbent mass,

a quantity of fragments of

marble bases, and other antiquities,

chamber to the depth of seven

sculpture,

filling

up the

feet.

The most remarkable of these objects were two

marble pigs, mounted on bases, one of which was
inscribed with a dedication to Persephone by Pla-

whose name occurs in several other

from this site. These pigs were about

thainis, a lady

inscriptions

two

feet long; there

were also found two smaller

pigs, about half the size.

181

IN THE LEVANT.

In the worship of Persephone and Demeter the

pig was a symbol of special import.

my

Wlien

Turkish workmen had dug out these

mai-ble representations of the unclean animal, they

exchanged knowing glances one with another.

was

It

agreed that these objects must on no

tacitly

account be recognized as pigs,

presence of the Giaour

especially in the

so they insisted on calling

them marble bears, a pious and convenient euphemism

in which I was quite ready to acquiesce. With these
pigs were found two calves, several dedications by
priestesses and other women, a term surmounted by
a rude head representing Proserpine, a female head

and

several fragments of statues, a votive

model of

her mystic calatlms, and fourteen pau's of female

breasts, all sculptured in marble.

These

last objects

Each pair of breasts

was connected by a handle, mounted on a plinth.
were very peculiar in form.
It is well

known

that the custom of dedicatina;

models of any part of the body which had been

affected

by disease has been retained from pagan

antiquity, both

by the Greek and Roman churches

(see

ante, I. p. 31). Votive breasts, sculptiu-ed in marble,

may be

seen in the British and other

museums

the form of those found in the temenos

is

but

jjecuhar,

and suggests the idea that they were anciently used

as weights.
fact

that

This supposition

is

they are of various

confirmed by the
sizes,

the plinths

I
ranging in length fi'om 6f inches to 1-| inch.
have not, however, been able to discover any

ancient standard to wliich they can be adjusted.

After clearing out

all

this

mass of marble, and

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

182

getting nearly to the bottom of the chamber,

to a layer of smaller

and more

we came

fragile objects.

Here

were small saucers and vases of red ware, lying intermixed with ivory hair-pins and bodkins, and with a

number

of fragments of small rods of transparent

glass, twisted

and inlaid with

spiral threads of opaque

In the same stratum were a number of small

srlass.

tablets of white marble,

from two inches to four

inches long, and about one-eighth of an inch thick.

Each of them was pierced for attachment to a wall,

or to some object. Their surfaces had been pohshed,
and bore traces of colour. These, doubtless, had
been used as

labels,

on which the forms of dedication

had, in the case of the

At the very bottom

in

sriialler objects,

of

all

been inscribed.

was a stratum of fine sand,

which lay some hundreds of small glass bottles

packed in rows.
broken specimens.

succeeded in obtaining 44 un-

These bottles ranged

from seven to three mches.

necks

The

They had long narrow

some few were bidbous

material

was transparent

in form.

glass, rather

hue, and not of a very fine quality.

were packed in regular

in length

As

green

in

these bottles

layers, it is evident that they

IN

must

183

THE LEVANT.

some time or other have been deposited at

them but
how tliey escaped unbroken, with so great a mass of

tlie

at

l)ottom of the chamber where I found

marble and rubble lying over them,

explain.

objects at

fell,

or

was thrown

The bones found with

nation to be those of the
goat,

and

difficult to

I can only suppose that the more fi'agile

the bottom of the chamber became com-

pletely covered with sand before the

mass

is

l)irds

in

superincumbent

above them.

the bottles proved on examiliog,

a small kind of ox, the

about the size of the

common

or dove.
These animals were probably
Demeter and Persephone.

fowl

sacrificed to

184

TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

The manner

in wliicli the glass

and more

fragile

objects were packed in layers at the bottom of the

chamber reminded me of the discoveries in the field

of Chiaoux at Budrum.

On

that

site,

where

it

is

probable that a temple of Demeter once stood, layers

of small terra-cotta figau'es and of lamps were foimd
lying in a clay bed between lines of foundations,

over which were lying fi-agments, probably, from

vaulting.

I have already pointed out, ante, p. 72, that within

the precincts of ancient temples were vaulted chambers, favissce, built for the reception of votive objects.

The

fact that

both at Cnidus and Hahcarnassus I

found objects packed in layers, inclines

me

that in both cases the building where

found was such a magazine or

favissa.

Continuing our excavations westward,

to another

40

feet fi'om

to think

they were

we came

group of rough foundations, running

north to south, and formino- three

or chambers.

The

cells'

walls were built of the rudest

185

IN THE LEVANT.

masonry.

In one of these cliambers was

tlie

base

of a small statue, and a hand and arm, which had

probably belonged to the same figm-e. The other
two compartments were full of lamps, mostly lymg
in the soil at the depth of about three feet, but

some

The finest of
glazed black ware.
The forms

placed hi the crevices of the walls.

these lamps were of

were well designed, and seemed copied

in bronze.

Some

eight or ten.

of

them have

as

fi'om

works

many mouths

as

186

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

At the

sides tliey

were generally ornamented with

masks or

ivy -leaves.

The other lamps were of very

ordinary form and fabric, and of the late

Several hundreds of

period.

the same
figures,

Some

Roman

them were found.

In

were found a number of terra-cotta

soil

mostly representing draped female figures.

of these were of extreme beauty.^*

we were enabled

In this part of the platform

to

carry our excavations quite to the foot of the escarp

wliich
line,

bounds

the

site

nearly under

the

on

niches,

six

representing a draped female figure.""

which had originally been

this

we found an

more than

teresting statue, rather

On

the north.

feet

in-

high,

The head,

fitted into a socket

at

the base of the neck, was found lying close to the

Immediately in front of this statue was a

body.
base,

inscribed

with

dedication

to

Demeter,

Persephone, and the gods associated with them, by

Nikokleia, wife of Apollophanes.

If this base be-

longs to the statue, as would seem from the relative

positions in which they were found, the figure would

represent
features

Demeter.

The type

is

and form are those of an

peculiar.

elderly

The

woman

wasted with sorrow, and do not exhibit that matronly

comehness and maturity of

characterize
If

Demeter

we suppose

form which usually

in ancient art.

this figure to

be Demeter, the devi-

ation from her usual type can only be explained

supposing that she

Dolorosa

is

of Hellenic

mythology, disconsolate for

the loss of her daughter.

Demeter

it is

by

here represented as the Mater

In the Homeric

hymn

to

stated that the goddess, while wander-

IN

THE LEVANT.

187

ing in search of her lost Persephone, assumed the

form and garb of an okl woman, and traversed

earth

many days without

for

appearance

is

tasting

tlie

Her

food.

likened to that of an aged nurse or

housekeeper in a regal house.

This description accords very well with the statue
discovered in the temcnos.

It

may be

ol)served that,

contrary to the usual practice in ancient statuary,

the eyes are represented looking up.
that the artist of this statue

It is possible

may have

intended to

represent Demeter looking up to the god Helios,

and imploring him to aid her

may bo

in

her search.

objected, on the other hand, that the ty|ie

of the features and form are hardly in

with

It

ideal

representation

and

must, therefore, be a portrait.

character

that the

statue

In that case

probably represents a priestess of the temenos.

it

We

learn fi-om Pausanias'^" that in the sacred precinct of

the Chthonic Demeter at Hennione, near Troezen,

were statues of her priestesses.

Near this

figure

we found an interesting terra-cotta

lamp, modelled in the form of Hekate attired like

Artemis.

Instead of a torch in each hand, she holds

up one of the spouts of the lamp, which was supplied

with oil through a hole at the back of the figure.
Her left arm rests on a small figure standing at
her

side,

apparently

the Aphrodite

Persephone,

the statuette of which has been already noticed.'^

Advancing further to the west,

groiip of cells

angles.

found another

formed by rough walls,

Within and about these

cells

built at right

were

sevei-al

hundred lamps of the kind already described, and

188

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

number of fragments

of

sculpture

in

Parian

marble, principally bands and feet of female figures

on various

Marks of red colour appear on

scales.

On

several of tbe fragments.

one of tbe feet tbe

tbick sole of tbe sandal bas two red bands, and bas

been painted red under tbe

AU

foot.

tbese objects

were found strangely intermixed with masses of

broken rock wbicb bad

from tbe beigbts to

In one place I found a piece of drapery

tbe nortb.

embedded

fallen

like a fossil in a

mass of rock. Tbe edges

of tbe fractured sculptures were very

wbicb

it

may be

tbey originally

fresli

inferred tbat tbey are lying

fi'om

wbere

fell.

Tbe discovery of tbese remains induced me

to

explore fartber tbe ground wbere tbey were lying.

Tbis, bowever,

was no easy matter

for at tbis point,

distant about 50 feet fi-om tbe western boundary of

tbe temenos, tbe escarp

is

completely broken away

and large masses of rock bave, consequently, been

projected forward into tbe inclosures, and throwing

them out of tbe

perpendicvilar.

After the lower part of this mass of rock and dctritiis

bad been removed, tbe work was constantly

impeded by tbe necessity of dislodging detached

fragments, which, being imdermined as we advanced,
overhung tbe excavations, threatening to overwhelm
us.

By

tbe appbcation of a steady continuous strain

of tackles,

we

succeeded

in

bringing

down

tbe

largest of these masses, weighing probably about

50 tons.

by

Tbis obstacle was afterwards disposed of

blasting,

and tbe ground below cleared down to

the ancient surface of the platform.

The excavation

189

IN THE LEVANT.

was then continued nortliwarcT as far as tlie line of

the escarp, beyond which all farther progress was
barred by great masses of rock wliich had fallen into
the breach in the escarp, and which form the buttresses of the sloping mountain-side behind them.

The western boundary-wall of the

and

temenos,

the rude foundations already noticed, continued to

run on imder the rubble up to the point where the

masses of rock arrested our further progress, be-

yond which there was no trace of remains of any

"Within the chambers formed by these rude
kind.
walls were lamps and fi-agments of terra-cotta, and
in the rubble a little below the sm'face was a marble
base, seventeen mches long, inscribed with a dedication to Demeter, Persephone, Pluto Epimachos,

and Hermes.
and

of

This base

elegant

beautifidly cut,

red colour

still

is

of fine Parian marble,

The letters are

them traces of

proportions.

and

in

many

of

remained on the

first

discovery of

this marble.

From this

dedication

we learn that Pluto

or Hades,

Demeter, Persephone, and Hermes, were associated

in a

common worship in

this temenos.

of a dedication to the Dioscuri

figure of

Hekate on the same

site,

The discovery

and a
makes

terra-cotta
it

probable

that these deities were also worshipped here.

Thus

the whole temenos would be dedicated to the divinities of

the nether world.

When
common
0eol

cognate divinities were thus combined

worship, they were called by the Greeks

<r6iJiSw[xoi

or

a-uvvaoi.

The

epithet

j)hed to Pluto in this dedication,

may

BTrlfjia^og

refer to

ap-

some

190

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

local legend,

recorded by Pausanias in

that

like

reference to the people of EKs,

worshipped

knowledgment of the
certain war.

On

who

are said to have

with special honour, in ac-

this deity

aid

rendered by him in a

the handle of a terra-cotta lamp

found near this inscription, was the head of Pluto

in

rehef;

and a fragment of another terra-cotta

probably represents him seated on his throneJ^

We

now

had

explored

of the platform, from

boundaiy, carrying
foot

of the

its

aU the northern half

eastern to

the excavations

escarp

as

the

western

its

as

near the

We

rock allowed.

next proceeded to explore the southern half of

the temenos.

In this part of the platform scarcely

any remams of sculpture or pottery were found ; but

at the distance of 21 feet to the north of the southern

boundary-waU was the lowest course of a

line of

wall which appeared to have been reconstructed out

of more ancient Hellenic materials.

This Une ran

nearly parallel with the southern boundaiy of the

temenos during the greater part of

its

At

length.

the distance of 33 feet to the north of this line were

two large blocks, which must have served to receive

a gate.

The door

in

an ancient building swimg on

a pivot revolving in an upper and lower socket

liinge of this

Budi'um.

kind

is

stiU

used in Turkish houses at

The blocks found

e\'idently fitted to receive a

a pivot played.

in the temenos

were

metaUic socket in which

Nearly on the same

line

wth

these

blocks were the foimdations of a second inner wall,

running through the temenos from east to west,

built of polygonal limestone blocks, roughly jointed.

THE LEVANT.

IN

From
it

the position of

tlie

191

two blocks and the jamb,

seems probable that the gateway to which they

belonged stood somewhere about the centre of this

wall.

Thinking

had

that portions of sculpture

possible

it

rolled over the southern boundary-wall, I

the ground along

foot

its

for

dug

a length of about

^1 feet in the centre of the temenos, and 40 feet at

the south-western angle.

Nothing was found

conduct water

and which

except a

which had evidently served to

large stone spoilt,

wall,

this excavation

in

from

the

summit of the terrace

represented in the accompanying

is

cut.

Spout,

It

would seem

this stone

had

above,

feet 4 hiclica long.

from the

when found, that

summit of the southern

on

platform

fi^om its jjosition

fallen

boundary-wall,

4i

as,

siu-faee-drain,

the

immethately

12 inches wide, was dis-

covered running between this wall and the inner

isodomous

wall.

On the hill-side,

at

some distance below the

foot of

the platform, I found a base dedicated to Demeter,

which once probably stood on the platform, whence

it

has been rolled down.

I

its

had now explored the whole platform through

length and breadth.

192

TEAVELS AND DISCOVBEIES

The

resiilt

may be

tlius briefly stated

All the sculptures and other antiquities were found

in a line

running east and west through the northern

part of the platform, and at a distance seldom ex-

ceeding 70 feet south of the escarp.

Those remains

sometimes cropped up to the surface, but were

generally found at a depth of about three feet. Nearly

aU the objects discovered lay

either within or very

near inclosures of chambers of the rudest masonry.

By

reference to the Plan

inclosures

form three

it

will

be seen that these

principal

situated

grovips,

and western extremities

respectively at the eastern

of the temenos and a httle east of the centre.

may be assumed, from

It

cation

by Ohrysina

the evidence of the dedi-

(ante, p. 177), that a

once stood on this platform.

olxog

tectural remains, however,

which

temple or

The only

archi-

were

I discovered

part of a Doric capital in limestone, 9f inches in

diameter; a fragment of Doric cornice in tertiary
Limestone,
red,

and

covered with a fine stucco, painted in

in

depth 5 inches

three diiims of a plain

cyUndrical column, of which the respective diameters

ranged from

1 foot 9 inches to 1 foot 6 inches

and

a portion of a fluted column 9 inches in diameter.

Both these columns have been composed of

tertiary

limestone covered with stucco.

The

insignificance

of these

remains,

and the

absence of regular foundations throughout the

lead

me

small,

to suppose that the temple here

and was probably consecrated by Chrysina to

the worsliip of the Infernal Deities in her

hold.

site,

was very

This

is

to be inferred

from the

own

free-

fact that the

.Pkte2y.^

PLAN
'-til

L^^ QfX.:53^

-fr. iu

>:':^

-.

'i^t

OF

TEMENOS

^."0 fe^t

Two B ases
^EI^

'P

n
o ^Stones from Gatevzdj

l;,StAtae of PersephoTie-XdHxps
2. Seated female figure-Ins oriptiou
3 Terra cotta Ogui es
4. Two female Heads. IiiEcriptioiiB
S.Pi^s. InacripUoDS Gbse ii^6. Base JemaleAnn.
.

7 Statue of Deiiieter_La3i5)s 1^.

8.1-ajnjs Terra cotta figinres

9.

"Fragments of Sculpture- Hands

if

10. Stone S-pout.

BES2!!3
li?v^-N^l

HdTd limestone Rock.

BiownTJnstratifiea. "Rock

Recent Soil.

Anaent Soil.

Wall.

SECTION OF TEMENOS

^UV

SCALE OF FEET

X'ay i

PLAN

OF

TEMENQS OF DEMETER

ScTti T. ttI' '"''

to

th*

piieen..

193

THE LEVANT.

IN

rramerous dedications found in

are

sitit

all

made by

priestesses of Demeter and Persephone, or private

individuals,

and none by the Senate and people of

Cnidus.

we assume

If

the

that the tcmc iiosvf as Tprivate ground,

dedicated by Chrysina would

o7;<of

l)e

a kind of

chapel, like those mentioned in a curious inscription

published by Buckh, called the Will of Epicteta

and from the analogy of that and other ancient

documents of the same
the

of the

priestess

class,

was

Deities

Infernal

appointed for ever from

probable that

is

it

among

be

to

the descendants of

Chrysina, and that the cost of keeping in repair the

sacred buildings was chars^ed on land held in trust

for that purpose.
It is obvious that

an

endowed would not have

tuousness the
it

pul:)lic

edifice thus dedicated

rivalled in scale

temples of

Cmdus

and

and sumpnor would

have had the same chance of being renewed and

repaired as often as
its

it

into decay,

fell

inasmuch as

maintenance must have depended on the piety or

fortunes of a single fomily, and not on the State.

The date

of the

probably about B.C.

dedication
3-50.

This

of the

temple was

may be inferred from

the form of the letters in the dedication by Chrysina,

and

also

from the general character of the dedicatory

inscriptions, which, with the exception of the leaden

tablets,

and of one or two

others,

may,

I think, be

assigned to the half-century between B.C. 350 and

300.
If

we can thus determine by palaeography the date

of the dedicatory inscriptions,

VOL.

II.

it

is

to be

presumed

TBAVELS AND MSCOVEEIES

194

on

tliat tlie statues,

bases of wliicli these dedi-

tlie

cations were inscribed, were of

conclusion wliicli

is

tlie

same date

corroborated by the style of the

The artists by
whom these works were produced would thus be
sculptures discovered on the

site.

either contemporaries of Praxiteles, or belong to the

generation immediately succeeding him.

Consider-

ing the great beauty of the head of Demeter, and of

some of the fragments found

in the temenos,

it

does

not seem an unwarrantable conjecture to su^^pose

that the statues there dedicated

may have been

exe-

cuted under the influence of the great artist whose

Venus was

for

many

centuries

the

chief glory of

Cnidus.

The fragments from the

temenos,

when compared

with the sculptures from the Mausoleum, exhibit

more tenderness and refinement of expression, and

greater richness of line
while, at the same time,
they are less grand and monumental in character, as
;

indeed might have been expected

if,

as I suppose,

the Cnidian statues were dedicated severally by private persons.

Most

of the statues and other votive

in the tevienos probably stood in the

monuments
open

air

on

bases, in the line in which I found their remains, or

in the niches cut in the face of the rock.

It

would

appear from the evidence of the excavations, that, at

some time or other in antiquity, the temple and

statues were thrown down and scattered about,
either by an earthquake or the hand of man ; but
the ground continued to be accounted sacred, and the

rough inclosures were

built for the reception of votive

195

IN THE LEVANT.
Tlie quantity of

oly'ects.

found in
offerings

lamps of a

proves that

tlie soil

tlie

late period

dedication of sucli

must have been continued

the 2nd or

till

3rd century A.D.

The groimd

at the foot of this escarp consisted of

detached masses of partially decomposed breccia.

These masses had one plane surfoce, lying over

against the escarp in a direction nearly parallel to
its plane.

Sometimes the plane of the breccia had

been forced mto such close contact with the plane of

the limestone escarp as to adhere to

it

but more

two planes were separated by a space

of two or more inches, which, to any one unacgenerally the

quainted with the real formation of the ground,

appeared

a deep groove

like

cut

the

in

native

rock.

On removing

by
them descending
and presenting the same

a portion of the overlying masses

blasting, I found the escarp behind

same angle,

at the

79,

Continuing the blasting to a depth of

regular slope.

28 feet below the sm^face, I found no change in the

The

inchnation or character of the rock.

height, from the top of

the

reached by blasting was 127

"When I

first

regularity of
surface,

escarp

feet.

to

entire

the point

{Sec Plate 22.)

examined the escarp, the extreme

its slope,

the general smoothness of the

and the occurrence of the niches, led

me

to

suppose that the rock had been -wrought by the

hand of man

an opinion which the authors of the

and other

Dilettanti

volume,

pressed.

As, however,

shoA\ai

it

travellers,

has been

have ex-

now

by blasting that the rock descends

clearly

to a great

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

196

depth inclined at
level surface, it

tlie

same angle and

"with the

cannot be the work of

same

human hands,

and must be considered as an upheaved limestone

stratum, overlaid at its base by broken strata of
breccia,

which lean against

it

in the

manner already

The singular configuration of the ground

may have been caused by volcanic action, of which
the crater in the island of Nisyros would probably
described.

be the centre, as this island

only twelve miles

is

distant from Cnidus.

The dedication
sephone makes

of the tcmenos to

it

j)riori

Hades and Per-

probable that this

site

selected

on account of some physical

peculiarity, which,

in the eyes of the Greek, Avas

was thus

associated with the worship of the Infernal Deities.

Thus, Pausanias

tells

us that at Hermione in the

Peloponnese, near the Temples of

Pluto,

was an inclosure dedicated

was a

fissure in the earth,

At

through which

it

was sup-

had brought Cerberus from the

posed that Herakles

nether world.

to

Demeter and
Pluto, in which

Hierapolis, Nysa,

and Thymbria,

in

Asia Minor, were caves exhahng mephitic vapours,

and Charonia and, in like manner,

Poseidon and other Cosmic deities were worshipped
in those places where their supposed influence was
called Plutonia

directly felt in earthquakes

and other portents.

In the case of the Onidian temenos, the scarp-like

regularity in the surface of the rock

the Greeks as a

phenomenon such

must have struck

as they

nect with supernatural agency, and

the original cause

why

Pluto and Persephone.

this spot

To

would con-

may have been

was dedicated

to

the eye of the Greek the

IN

THE

197

LEVxVNT.

form of the ground might have suggested the idea that

a chasm in the earth had opened here
tradition

would claim

and thus

local

scene of the

this spot as the

rape of Persephone.

Such a

site

inclosed

saw near Lerna,

"

it

is

by

its

fcriholos Pausanias

" Here," he remarks,

in Ai'golis.

on carrj-ing

said that Pluto,

descended into the infernal regions."

was consecrated

Persephone,

off

If the tcmcnos

as the supposed scene of this

myth,

the two statues described ante, p. 177 and p. 187,

may
I

represent two distinct aspects of Demeter.

have already suggested that the standing figure

may be

the Demeter Acha?a (the Mater Dolorosa of

the ancient world) wandering disconsolately in search

of her daughter
sent the

while the seated figure

same goddess

rejoicing, at a

may

repre-

subsequent

period of the myth, in the return of Persephone.

With these must be taken

in

connection the terra-

cotta lamp, representing the light-bearing Hekate; for

was that goddess who, torch in hand, accompanied

Demeter in her search for Proserpine. The marble
pigs, again, may be connected with the same myth,
for, according to a legend preserved by Clemens

it

chasm down Avhich Persephone

swallowed up at the same time the

Alexandi'inus, the

was carried

ofi",

pigs of a certain Eubuleus

while another tradition

declared that these unclean animals were sacrificed to

Demeter, because they

suit of

foiled the

goddess in her pur-

her daughter's ravisher, by obliterating with

their snouts the tracks of his chariot-wheels.

The small terra-cotta figures bearing water-pitchers

on their heads

may

represent

the

daughters of

198

TRAVELS AND DISCO\'ERIES

Keleos, king

The
the Homeric hymn,

recorded in

of Bleusis.

local

legend,

describes

as

these

damsels as coming to di'aw water from the well at

which Demeter rested when her wanderings had

brought her into Attica.

The

statuette of Persephone described ante, p. 17G,

has no mark of having ever been attached to a base

it

was, therefore, possibly carried about as an idol in

religious rites.

and though not

The type
earlier

of the goddess

in

Many repetitions

mode

of representing

of this statuette exist

European museums, generally forming groups with

a larger female figure.

the

first to

recognizes

note
it

Persephone,
of

peculiar,

than the other sculptures,

evidently embodies an archaic

Persephone.

is

Roman

all

Professor Gerhard,

who was

the extant examples of this type,

as the representation of the Aphrodite

corresponding to the Venus Libitina

mythology.

In

this blending of the attri-

butes of these two antagonist goddesses in one type,

we may trace the same idea which runs through the

whole myth of Persephone namely, that out of death
;

comes regeneration.
In examining the objects found in the temenos, the
inquiry naturally presents

itself,

whether, from the

we can determine the particular

form of worship which may have prevailed on this
site.
Among the objects discovered may be recogevidence before us,

nized certain emblems, such as the calathus, the

the pig, which are

known

cista,

to have been used in the

Eleusinian mysteries, but wliich probably were not

peculiar to these Attic rites, but connected with the

worship of Demeter and Persephone generally.

IX

Again -n'C do not

190

THE LEVANT.

among

find

tlie

in the temcnos any trace of tlie

objects discovered

mytli of Triptolemos,

or any evidence of the association of Dionysos with

Demeter, as

^\'as

the case in Attica.

sider, therefore, that it is rather as

We may

con-

an Infernal or

Chthonic than as an Agrarian Deity that Demeter

was worshipped in this temcnos.

The connection of this goddess with Cnidus may
be traced back to the period of the mythic founder
of the city, Triopas.

It

was

he, according to the

legend, Avho, flying from Dotion in Thessaly,

when

he had incurred the wrath of Demeter by cutting

down her

sacred grove, landed at Cnidus with a band

of foUowers, and there established rites called Trio-

name.

pian, after his

These were the same Tnopia

sacra which Telines, the ancestor of the

first

Gelon,

transported from Telos to Sicily; and such, accorduig

was the mysterious nature of these

that then* Hierophant, Telines, owed to them

to Herodotus,
rites,

his

remarkable

Herodotus
rites

ascendancy at Gela.

also states that the tradition of these

was handed dowa through the

of Telines,
after they

It

political

who continued to

lineal

officiate as

were estabUshed as a djTiasty

seems at

first sight

descendants

Hierophants
at Syracuse.

natural to suppose that

if

the worship of Demeter and Persephone at Cnidus

was

originally called Triopian, the seat of that

wor-

would have been the HieronTriopion, which was

dedicated to Apollo, Poseidon, and the Nymphs.
ship

There seems, however, no positive evidence to show

that such

was the

case,

nor

is

there any difficulty in

assmning that the name of the mythic founder of

200

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Cnidus may have been given to two distinct temples.

On

the other hand,

lished

on the

difficidt to

first

the Triopia sacra were estab-

if

colonization of Cnidus,

it

seems

beheve that the original seat of this wor-

ship would have been the temenos discovered by me;

for in that case

some

relic of archaic art

been found in the debris

would have

whereas I have already

pointed out that none of the inscriptions or other

remains were earUer than the time of Phidias.

Upon
it

the whole, therefore, I

am

disposed to think

probable that in the temenos dedicated by Chry-

sina, the Triojna sacra

formed the basis of the mystic

worship, but that the original seat of this worship

must be looked

for in

some other part of Cnidus,

perhaps in the Peninsula.^^

XLY.
BuDRUM, May
It

is

on the

30, 1858.

time to give an account of our operations

Mausoleum which have been

carried on for several months under the superintendence of Lieut. Smith, and which are now
brought to a close. At the date of my last letter
(see ante, p. 137), we had advanced beyond the
site

of the

northern wall of the periholos as far as the road

marked

in the Plan.

The excavations have now

been extended to the

east,

the quadrangular area

first

in

places to

depth

and south of

west,

explored, and carried

of 23 feet

the

northern

wall of

peribolos lias been traced for 337 feet

tlie

fi-om the nortli-east angle,

265

feet

201

TUE LEVANT.

IN

fi-om

and

the same angle

tlie

eastern wall for

and many hundred

subterranean galleries have been explored.

feet of

The

results

of

operations

these

may

be thus

summarily stated.
First, as regards the limits of tlie j^criholos

itself.

Observing that on the east the platform on which

Mausoleum stood

the
ridfje

terminates

abruptly in

and south, below which the

runnino- north

present level of the land sinks abruptly about eight

feet, I

drove galleries through this ridge, and con-

tinuing

them

till

a few feet beyond

it

to the east,

I encountered the eastern peribolos wall.

The part nearest the north-east angle could only

be traced by

its

foundatien courses, or by the bed

them but further to the

the wall was composed of two and sometimes

cut in the rock to receive

south,

of three courses of white marble, beautifully chiselled

and

jointed.

a lower level

were on
than those of the northern wall, and

The foundations of

in its lower courses

it

this wall

must have served

as a rcrctc-

DLcnt to the artificial platform.

On

one of the upper courses we found j^kt^

a very small elephant cut

in

ivoiy, pro-

*^i^^

bably votive.
After tracing this wall by mining for 265
lost all trace of

it,

southern limit of the

feet,

we

nor was I able to discover the

j^eribolus.

I think it probable,

south of the point to

marked by a ridge a little

which I was able to advance

by driving

Following the northern jjeri-

however, that

its line is

galleries.

202

TBAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

holos to

the

we

west,

lost all trace of

at tlic

it

distance of 337 feet from the nortli-east angle.

Now,

according to Hyginus, the entu^e circuit of the periholos

was 1,340

feet.

One-fourth of this

sum would be 335

feet, whicli,

supposing Hyginus to have used the Greek

would

in

round numbers equal 339 English

foot,

feet.

This length so nearly corresponds with the length

of north wall actually traced, that the four sides

The

of the peribolos probably formed a square.

Mausoleum would thus stand but a few

feet in

advance of the northern wall of the periholos, and

half-way between

Why it .was

the eastern and western walls.

thus placed, rather than in the centre of

the periholos, will jDresently be shown.

Assuming that the

preciact round the

tomb was

a square of about 339 feet each Avay, the greater

part of this

space of ground has noAV been dug-

over.

From

the

east

side

of

the

quadrangle

the

ground has been dug nearly as far as the eastern

wall of the pcrihoJos, and on the south side we
have advanced for about 90

Our

feet.

further progress in this direction has been

arrested by the obstinacy of two old Turks,

absolutely refuse to

any terms.

On

sell

us their houses and land on

we

we have advanced

the west

about 70 feet from the

to the

boundary of a

field

side

for a

sides

we found

for

Quadrangle

of the

planted with

are not allowed to invade.

and southern

who

figs,

Avhich

Both on the eastern

a black vegetable soil

depth varying from four to eight

feet.

Below

IN TUB

was

tliis

203

LEVANT.

either tlie native rock or a lo-\ver stratum

composed of a mass of rubble intermixed with large

blocks of stone, all apparently formed of the decomposed rock of the platform. This mass of rubble
In some places it extends to
is of various depths.
35 feet below the upper surface.

Whenever we have dug

to the

native rock has been found cut in

bottom of

the

it,

ledges and angles,

In
would be the case in an ancient quarry.
several places, on removing the black superficial soil,
we came to a layer of chippings of marble and green
as

stone, intermixed -nnth fi'agments of native rock,

the

decomposition of

Avhicli

by

the whole had been

Lying on this
layer were many fragments of pottery, among which

amalgamated into a compact mass.

were several small terra-cotta

figures, exquisitely'

modelled, and probably of the period of Scopas.

should

that though

be noticed

It

we continued

to

find fragments of scidpture or architecture in the

black upper

soil

all

round the Quadrangle, nothing

was found in the lower soil which could be identified

as coming fi'om the Mausoleum.
In some places on the eastern side the lower soil
was composed of zigzag strata of rubble and chippings of green stone, such as would be formed by
casting in rubble from opposite directions.
All these facts
that,

may

be explained

wherever the rock

failed

if

we assume

from having been

quarried away, the platform of the pcrlholos

artificially

was

prolonged, by shooting into the deeper

parts the rubble AVhich accunmlated in the course

of

cutting

the

beds

for

the

foundations,

and

204

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

dressing the stone for the

On

Mausoleum.

the

south side of the Quadrangle are two chambers cut

in the rock,

which must have been sepulchral, and

near the south-east

cutting, at the

corner

large

bottom of which, 23

rectangular

feet

below the

came to a stone coffin about

seven feet long, empty and without a lid. At the side
of this coffin I found an iron dagger and a terrasm^face of the

field,

cotta vase in the form of a female head.

It

may

be inferred from the viodius on the head

that this terra-cotta represents Persephone.

style

of

the modelling

imagine that

is

this terra-cotta

archaic,

and

The
should

was of a date consider-

ably anterior to the Mausoleum.

IN THE LEVANT.

would

It

seem

from the

205

discovery

of

these

remains that the quarry on which the platform of

Mausoleum was formed was used

the

tery

times long

in

antecedent

to

as a

the

ceme-

time

of

Artemisia.

Those who have explored the

know

cities

sites

of ancient

that such a combination of quarry

common wherever

cemetery was very

and

the Greeks

found a stratum of free-stone suitable for buildina;

The cemetery of Damos

ixirposes.

described ante,

now

see

why

I. p.

285,

is

at Calymnos,

a casein point.

the foundations

of

the

Mausoleum

were placed so near the north wall of the

instead of in

its centre.

It

We may
'periholos

was because the rocky

platform afforded sufficient area for the foundations,

which

rest, in fact,

on a step cut

in the

base of the

conical hill to the north.

This hiU
its

base

is

is

of volcanic origin

composed

is

the rock of which

a calcareous tufa, in which

volcanic materials are cemented together.

To

the

north of the periholos the original features of the

The rocky slopes of the

summit are cut down vertically

quarry are quite distinct.

hill

nearly to

its

with monolithic chambers and graves at intervals,

the position of which

is

marked

in Plate 1.

This

was probably the Necropolis of the early settlers,

before Mausolus enlarged the city by the incorporahill

tion of several neighl^ouring towns.

It

is

interesting

to observe that wlien the people of Halicarnassus

competed with other cities of Asia Minor for the

honour of erecting a temple to the emperor Tiberius,
they alleged in support of their claim that their

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

206
city

had not experienced

quake

and

for 1,200 years,

on the native rock

tlie

sliock of

their temples

the

''*

truth of

an earth-

were

which

built

latter

statement has been proved by excavations on the

sites of the

On

Temple of Mars and the Mausoleum.

the west side of the Quadrangle the

soil

was not

above three feet in depth over the native rock, which

is

here cut irregularly into shallow beds and steps.

Very few fragments of sculpture and architecture were

found in the

soil either

here or on the east side.

At

the south-west corner of the Quadrangle was a small

house, which I removed, and which was chiefly com-

posed of fragments of steps from the pyramid,

similar to

those

which were found

northern wall of the peribolos.

beyond the

A little to the

south-

came to some fragments of the

hough joint of one of the
The position of these fragments

east of this spot Ave

chariot-wheel and the

colossal horses.

the more massive marbles from the

relatively to

pyi'amid discovered on the north, would indicate that

Mausoleum was thrown doAvn by an earthquake, the rocking motion must have been from

if

the

north-east to south-west.

A draped female torso, a youthful

a male head,

life size,

also discovered

32

feet

heroic head, and

wearing the Phrygian cap, were

on the south

side, at the distance

of

from the edge of the Quadi'angle.

The subterraneous galleries by which the platform

Mausoleum is pierced are on two diSerent

of the
levels,

and may therefore be distinguished as the

Upper and Lower

on reference

Galleries.

It will

be perceived

to the Plan, Plate 2, that the lower

IN THE LEVANT.

gallery runs

all

207

round the Quadrangle of the Mau-

soleum, having no outlet except on the eastern side,

near the south-eastern angle.

This gallery evidently sei-ved
the building.
fi^om

On

foi'

the drainage of

the eastern side a drain issuing

under the foundations of the basement flowed

into the eastern gallery,

and on the western side

another passed out of the building under the great

stone

(see ante, p. 98),

gallery through

covermg

Ten

emptying

a bronze grating

slab of pavement.

shafts occur in this

itself

inserted

into the
in

the

{Sre the cut.)

series

of galleries, of

which four are placed at the four corners of the

208

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Quadrangle.

On

reference to the Plan,

seen that this lower gallery, though

it

Quadrangle, does not run parallel to

its

many
It

is

it

will

be

surrounds the
hues,

making

deflections, especially in its southern branch.

probable, therefore, that parts of this gallery

were cut

at a period anterior to the building of the

Mausoleum, and that

earlier

its

architects adapted these

passages to the plan of their building, con-

them

nectingf

The

tog-ether so as to

form one duct.

external drainage of the building

One

bably conducted into the shafts.

on the eastern

side

was pro-

of the shafts

which receives the contribution

of a small drain from the interior

may be

considered

as the terminus, or point of junction to w^liich the

branches of the lower gallery tend.

main duct leads

From

in a south-eastern direction to within

Here we
was probably continued

45

feet of the eastern iieribolos wall.

all

trace of

it

built gallery,

biit it

platform

In a
is

lost

as a

on account of the great depth of

over the rock, which

surface.

this shaft a

field

is

here

25

feet

soil

below the

below the eastern side of the

a large reservoir cut out of the native

rock, which probably received the drainage of this

gallery.

The upper

gallery, w^hich runs at

an average

level

of seven feet above the bed of the lower gallery, has

been traced for 160

Mausoleum, where

feet

it

beyond the road north of the

was

still

tending upward to the

north-west in the direction of a deep shaft in the

theatre.

Entering the peribolos somewhere about

its

north-west angle, this gallery runs on in a straight line

to the south-east as far as a shaft in the

Vakouf

field.

209

IN THE LEVANT.

Here

divides into

it

two branches, one of which,

after

being interrupted by the south-west corner of the

Quadrangle,

is

resumed bej^ond

running on to the

it,

south-west, and being lost at the same point as the

lower gallery.
It

probable that they both converged in a

is

large reservoir cut in the rock outside the eastern

It is evident that this

periholos wall.

branch could

have had no connection with the original plan of the

Mausoleum,

for at the point

where

west side of the Quadrangle,

its

it

opens into the

mouth was nearly

closed by the foundation courses of the basement,

which we found

still

have been of an

earlier date

in position.

bed of the foundations in

must therefore

It

and

in

preparing the

this place, the portion of

gallery lying within the Quadrangle

must have been

cut away.

The other branch

of the upper gallery, after pro-

ceeding in a south-eastern direction for about 100

feet,

makes a

singiilar elbow,

after

making a right
on the

angle, runs on tiU

which

that in one place

it

is

closed

is

turns

and then

it finally

disappears

line of the eastern periholos wall.

gallery served as an aqueduct

it

feet,

nearly due south for another 100

proved

That
l^y

this

the fact

by two party wahs,

twelve feet apart, and each pierced by four pipes at

The remains of a similar barrier

were to be traced at the commencement of this
branch in the Vakouf field. The object of these walls
was evidently to check the too sudden rush of water
from the hill.
It seems probable that when the
other branch of the upper gallery was intercepted
different heights.

VOL.

II.

210

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

bj cutting
it

as a

the

hill

tlie

Quadrangle, this was substituted for

main aqueduct,

to prevent the

water from

from lodging anywhere within the

and loosening the

The lower

artificial

iwriholoii

platform.

gallery nearly throughou.t its length

is

cut in the solid rock, with a height of from six to

The upper

eight feet.

gallery

to the north of the road,

exceeded eight

feet,

largest in the part

is

where

in places its height

with a width of about three

Where the rock failed, this gallery was

feet.

built of massive

blocks, the roof being formed either of

two stones

leaning against each other, or of horizontal slabs.

Along the

sides shallow niches

were cut in the rock

lamps were placed

at intervals, in Avhich, doubtless,

during the excavation of the

In proportion

galleries.

to the great length of galleries excavated, very

antiquities of interest

of handles of

diotce,

Numbers
with the names of

were found
inscribed

few

in them.

magistrates of Rhodes, Cnidus, and other ancient

were obtained from the lower gallery

cities,

and

the upper gallery to the Avest of the Quadrangle

found a sardonyx

ciit

in the

form of a

disk,

in

was
and

pierced diametrically with a small hole for attach-

ment

as an ornament.

This stone

a fine specimen

is

It

was probably

brought down from the high ground

to the north-

of a very rare kind of sardonyx.

west.

We

have

now

explored the

site

of the

Mausoleum

as far as present circumstances permit.

To complete

the examination of the peribolos,

would be necessary

it

to obtain possession of the four

houses on the south, which up to this time their

211

IN THE LEVANT.

owners have pertinaciously refused to

This

sell.

must be left to time. At some future

day, the two old gentlemen who hold the houses
may repent of their obstinacy and accept with
thankfidness the extravagant price which they have
neo-otiation
o

so often refused.

After this long account of our diggings,

amuse you

to read the enclosed letter,

picked

in

uji

It bears

may

which was

Budrum and handed

the streets of

over to me.

it

no signature

but the writer

evidently one of the sailors of the Supply.

is

" Dear father and moter, with gods help

take up

my

pen to

ho^Deing to find

thank god
all

the

it

drill

you

me

leaves

&

good health

in

now

these few lines to you

right

Dear father of

at present.

was put

that a seaman

sperits as

to

think the

Supply's company have got the worst, for here

are

Boderumm

at

to a navy; yes

by George we are

naveys sumetimes a diging

draging
it.
i

it

down

Dear father

saw

we

is

long-

dred turks

&

turned

fear

we

shall

the city of Ninevea as been

we

time that

every thing

most

all

the finest mable that ever

this is

to be seen
;

find nothinof but

compleatley roted away,

els is

they used in those days

up

&

& sometimes a
& then imbarking

get on so very slow that

sunk such a

what

we

up

it

to the waters edge

be hear a long time

mable

peke madock

the

nevur was there such a change from a sea

shovel,

man

a useing

is

the crockery ware that

their

is

upwards of a hun-

Greeks mixt together

to lions, but they are very

they have dug

much broken about

from lying so long in the ground or by the shok of

p 2

212

TRAVELS AND PISC0\-1:RIES

eartlaquake when the place was destroyed.

Dear father we have jileanty of fi-ute one sorte
and another, we have ahnons figs grapes pome-

tlie

&

granets

melons, bnt

are counted fruto or

&

know whether melons

vegetable, we eat them raw
doant

so do every one els

"We have them in

here.

great plenty, they are by far the best frute that

get here

have one now on

has a peck, or measure

manage to

eat

the best of

man

hand has big

it is

we cannot

at the time

can eat

have bean here

am

of Ehza, the
to

since

we

a frade that the answers to

my

first

it

rember

was

chance

every male fi'om here, send

and Charlotte adressis

her

is

my fault send me word

was sadley disopainted, i
get intelegence of ehza.
Dear father i

letters are lost, if so

will write

but

when he

Dear father we have had one male

thirsty.

tell

right

more than half a dozen

they are the best thing a

hoped

my

we can

me

give

my

me

kind love to her

have got a keepsake for her

him

to Jessy tell

Greorges

&

&

saley;

hope to have a

him a
gravestone they are very romantict and hansom
mind give my kind loA'e to mother, god bless you
turkish curieau for him.

direct to

think

shall bring

Boderumm malta or elswhere Mediteriaien."

^Vliile I

have been writing

this letter, the last of

our stores have been embarked

which so long stood on the pier

the great sheers

in the

harbour for

hoisting heavy cases have been struck, and in a few

miniites
last

we

shall

be under weigh for Cnidus.

act before abandoning the

have so long laboured,

was

to

Our

ground where we

make

a small

mound

within the Quadrangle, which will be marked on the

213

IN THE LEVANT.

Plan to enable future travellers to identify the

site

where once stood one of the Seven AVonders of the

ancient world.
Much as has been accomplished by
the

exploration

of

this

cannot abandon

site,

Bndruni without a feeling of deep regret that so

much

remains to be done to complete these

still

researches.
is

It is

built in a great

its

could only be

St.

Peter

measure out of the ruins of the

What remains

Mausoleiim.
sculpture

certam that the Castle of

of

architecture

and

massive walls and ramparts contain,

known by

the same

work of thorough

demolition which led to the discovery of the ruins of

the Temple of Victory in a Turkish bastion on the

Acropolis at Athens.

The

fortress at

Budrum, though

interesting as an

intact sjjecimen of mediaeval architecture, contributes

so
it

little

to the defence of the Turkish empire that

will i^robably

be allowed to

fall

the other hand, the harbour at

made an

excellent one

if

On

Budrum might be

the ancient moles at

The

entrance were restored.

into decay.

demolition

of

its

the

would furnish excellent materials for their

reconstruction
and the cost of such a work would
Castle

be amply compensated,

if

problem of the structure

we could determuie
of the Mausoleum by

the

the

evidence of the architectural marbles which would

be thus recovered.

214

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

XLVI.
Ruins of Cnidus, Juhj

1S58.

3,

After the monotonous record of our last operations

at

Budrum,

it is

pleasant to be able to announce the

remarkable discovery which we have recently made

here.

One day last year when

was digging

at

Budrum,

whom

an intelhgent Greek, called Nicholas Galloni,

I

known

had

Looking

at

at the lions

Calymnos,

paid

me

visit.

from the Mausoleum as they

lay in the courtyard of the kouak, he observed that

he knew of a much bigger

on a promontory a

lion,

Uttle south of Cnidus.

I took a note of the fact,

estabhshed here, inquired of

and as soon as we were

all

they had ever heard of such a

to

my

1dm

which he had seen

the natives whether

lion.

I got no answer

inquiries but a shrug of the shoulders

billir

" who knows

Dming

and a

"

the early spring the north wind blew so

hard, that I deferred exploring the exposed ridges

more genial weather.

One
morning in May, Mr. PuUan started on a rovingcommission to look for the liou. At the distance
of

the

coast

till

of about three miles south of Cnidus

the

coast

throws out a bold headland, lying opposite Cape

and distant from it about three miles

On
the summit of a cliff which forms part of this headland, Mr. Pullan observed the ruins of an ancient
Crio,

215

IN THE LEVA'NT.

On

tomb.

the bare rock below

the

toml:) lay

tliis

lons'-souo'ht Uou.

He

feet in length

and

He

weather

is

in colour

much worn, and

showed him
asked

he

why

lay,

ofl',

probably when he

which has been exposed to the

side

of the district and

to the inhabitants

they had never pointed out to

they told

me

much
when I

has assimilated so

surrounding rock, that

the

to

lay on his side,

His forepaws and

the ground.

his nose buried in

lower jaw have been broken

The

and cut out of

six feet in height,

one block of Pentelic mai'ble.

fell.

measuring ten

truly a magnificent beast,

is

me where

that they had often seen a great

rock lying there, but had never perceived that

represented a lion

till

I told

the tomb,

the ruins of

them

On examining

so.

find that

it

it

has been

surrounded by a Doric peri-

a square

basement,

style Avith

engaged columns, and surmounted by a

pyramid.

To

the

of

east

this

tomb

the

ground slopes

The upper part of the declivity is strewn

with architectural ruins. The lion lies a little below
gradually.

these.

It is evident

the tomb, that

the pyramid.

it

It

from

its

must have

position relatively to
originally

surmounted

may have been thrown down by

an earthquake, and must have

fallen

in

one solid

mass, probably pitching forward on the forepaws,

which have been united to the body by a

all

trace of which has

On making
once to pitch

now

this great

my

joint,

and

disappeared.

discovery, I proceeded at

tent on the spot, and to transport

from Cnidus sheers, ropes, blocks, timber, and

all

216

TRAVELS iVND DISCOVEEIES

necessary means and appliances for raising, packing,

and embarking

our

colossal

prize.

having been carefully adjusted

turned

over

any

mtliout

ovei'

as

air,

if

a Michael

"

Angelo had said to him, " Arise

While he had been Iving

mounting

difficulty,

slowly and majestically in the

we had never

The sheers
him, he was

grovellino-

on the earth

when we
had set him on his base, and our eyes met for the
first time his calm, majestic gaze, it seemed as if we
had suddenly roused him fi'om his sleep of ages.
I
seen his face at

all

so that,

should mention that he has no eyeballs, only deeplycut sockets, of which the solemn chiaroscuro, contrast-

ing with the broad sunlight around, produces the

effect of real eyes so

completely as to suggest the

notion that the artist here, as in

in

ancient

sculpture, preferred

equivalents to the

more

But, on the other hand,

many

instances

representation by

direct imitation of nature.

we have abundant

evidence

show that coloured eyes, composed of ^^treous

pastes, were sometimes combined with marble in
to

ancient statuary.

There

is

a curious anecdote in Pliny of a lion

with emerald eyes Avhich surmounted the tomb of

a certain petty prince in Cyprus.

This lion over-

looked the sea, and the dazzling rays of his emerald

eyes,

if

we may venture

to

believe Pliny, used to

scare the tunny-fish on that coast

"
!

The contemplation of the Cnidian Uon in the bright

and delicate atmosphere for which he was originally
designed, taught

me much

as to the causes

why

217

IN THE LEVANT.
iiiodcni artists fail so geuerally

public

monuments on a

Their -work

is

colossal scale.

no true judgment
butes

little

is

to

and

designed, executed,

in progress, in small studios,

Hence, much

when they attempt

as

where they can form

open-air effects.

distant

to

criticised

elaborately wi'ought which contri-

the

ultimate

and the true

result,

elements of grandeur are altogether missed.

very near the

I stood

many

lion,

ment appeared harsh and

When

things in the treat-

singular

but on retiring

to the distance of about thirty yards, all that

seemed

exaggerated blended into one harmonious whole,

which,

lit

up by an Asiatic sun, exhibited a breadth

of chiaroscuro such as I haxe nevei" seen in sculpture

of

nor was the

human

production

effect of this colossal

genius at

impaired by the bold forms

all

and desolate grandeur of the surrounding

The

lion

seemed made

scenery for the

for

lantlscape.

the scenery, and the

lion.

The genial climate in which the Greek artists lived

must have enabled tliem to finish their colossal
sculptures in the open air, and on the very site for
which they were designed

hence the perfect har-

mony between man's work and

natiu-e

which

eminently the characteristic of Greek art in

its

is

so

best

time.

After raising the lion by the sheers,

him

we lowered

into a case suitable to his dimension,

which was

bolted together with iron rods.

Once

in the case, he

in every possible

was blocked up and secured

way, so as to pi-event

all

movement

218

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

or friction.

Nobody can pack

a heavy mass

sculpture better than a ship's carpenter.

threw a

hammocks over

pall of old

him down in
The next thing was
nailed

made

his

which we

road,

to

placed on a sledge

made

and hauled

for

had

the

cut

down

zigzag

The case was

sea.

of the strongest materials,

three

al:>out

resurgaiii.

him down a newly-

to drag

the mountain-side

then

the body, and

with a

coffin

We

of

days by a hundred

Turks, in the course of which operation sundry

coils

new rope were expended, and several of my

workmen knocked down b)' flying blocks which
gave way under the great strain. At last we got
the lion down to the edge of the cliff, whence he
of

was

on to a

to be hoisted

This proved to be a very

raft

by a pair of sheers.

difficult

operation

for as

the sheers could only be fixed on a narrow ledge of

rock some feet above the sea, and

as,

from the depth

we had no means of constructwas impossible to bring the case in the

of the water here,

ing a pier,

it

first

instance perpendicidarly under the sheerhead.

We

attempted, therefore,

after haiding

extreme edge of the rock, to launch

easing

its

to the

into the air,

descent gradually by a number of check-

tackles attached to

immense weight,
clifi",

it

it

broke

off

behind.

it

as

it

The

strain

inclined foi'ward

of this

over the

a large rock to Avhich one of the

check-tackles had

been fastened;

the

case then

lurched forward in a slanting direction, and, most

legs, into

was brought up against one of the sheerwhich one corner embedded itself. On

the giving

way

fortunately,

of the check-tackle, the poor

Turk

219

IN THE LEVANT.

of

in cliarge
Avliieli

it

broke

was

carried along vnili the rock

two

and

away,

of

his

were

ribs

My

hundred Turkish workmen set up

a dismal shout, losing all nerve and presence of
fi'actured.

mind, as they always do in any great emergency.

Mr. Edgeworth,

Fortunately,

doctor of the

the

Supply, was at hand, and I was glad to be assured

by

Turk had sustained no dangerous

instead of lodging where it did, the case

liim that the

injury.

had

If,

in its fall ujiset the sheers,

snapping the heavy

chains by which they were hung, the accident might

have been much more serious.

grimly

smoking

observed that

what he
butcher's

the

after

was very lucky not

called,
bill

pipe

his

Corporal Jenkins,

soldier's

in

catastrophe,
to have

lano-uage,

had

heavv

to settle.

Having got the case jammed against the sheer-leg

uncomfortable manner, we had now to con-

in this

sider

how

to extricate

The weight

easy one.

about eleven tons

The problem was not an

it.

of the lion in his case

and

this

hanging over the edge of the

that no mechanical

move

it

unwieldy mass was

cliflF

such a position

in

at our

command

Everybody was

whom

had

place a raft, and

liii'ed

who was

in despair except a

we

After trying-

finally

om- object by the following method

first

to

of course dehghted at the

several ineffectual experiments,

was

Greek

two caiques on which

prospect of a claim for demurrage.

in

could

moi-e than a few inches, either backwards or

forwards.
fi'om

means

was

succeeded

The case

secured from slipping further forward by

bending a new hawser round

it,

Avhich

was then

220

TEAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

strained tight
and also by supporting the sides and
end next the sea with shores, such as are placed
round a ship in dock. An inclined plane was then
formed under the case by planks laid on the rough
;

surface of the rock so as to

up

fill

all inequalities.

After these precautions had been taken, one of the

purchases which held the case to the sheerhead was

slackened, and, on this strain being removed, the

was cleared from the corner emThe sheers were then altered so as to

leg of the sheer

bedded

in

it.

give plenty of

room

through them

and, the shores being removed,

was launched forward

passage of the case

for the

into the air

with the sheerhead, when

it

it

hung plumb

till it

was lowered on the

raft,

thence to be transferred to the hold of the Supply.

Even
anxiety

this last operation

was not unattended with

for the lion, in his case,

weighed about

eleven tons, and the ship's ordinary hoisting power

could not deal with more than seven tons.

by some of

tional strength was, however, provided

those ingenious makeshifts which sailors

well

how

to invent

and, to

my

Addi-

know

infinite relief, I

so

saw

the lion at leno-th lowered into his final restino-place, the hold of the ship.
tion, in

The work of embarka-

consequence of these

difficulties,

occupied

one month.

Now

that

we have secured

this great prize,

curious to reflect that I mie^ht never have

it

at

all,

"vvTeck

had

off"

it

it is

known

of

not been for the accident of a ship-

Mytilene about a year ago.

The connection between this event and the disThe ship

covery of the lion was in this wise
:

THE LEVAXT.

IN

221

wrecked was an English steamer

agent for Mytilene
Galloni,
lion,

who

first

and

gaA'e

was Lloyd's

my

friend, tlie

me

information about the

was a sponge-diver, anxious

to

Calymniote

be employed

Hence

recovering cargo from the wreck.

in

his visit

Budrum, when, to ingratiate himself uath me, he

communicated this valuable intelligence, which,
probably, without some such special motive, he
to

might have kept to himself.

XLTII.
CMDUi5, Av(/.

2;i,

1858.

After having accomplished the embarkation of the

lion,

we proceeded

the Doric

the

tomb

to explore thoi'oughly the ruins of

fi'om

architectural

which he had

marbles

being

fallen,

each of

carefully

and measured by Mr. Pullan as we proceeded.

result of our examination of the remains

///

drawn

The
sitn is

as follows.

The tomb,
is

as

I stated

in

my

previous

letter,

a square basement, sm-rounded by a Doric peri-

style with

engaged columns, and surmounted by a

pyramid.

The marble which had formed the

of the sides

still

facing

remained in the lower courses of the

basement, above which were courses of petrified

beach forming the core of the masonry.

Although the peristyle was thrown down,

materials existed for its restoration.

sufficient

Portions of the

222

TRAVELS ANT) DISCOVERIES

lower step of
tion on

all

tlie

basement

still

remained

in posi-

the four sides of the toml), being most

perfect on the west side.

The basement, measured from angle

formed a square of 39

this step,

to angle of

2f inches each

feet

way.

The columns and their capitals were formed of

drums engaged in the marble waU behind them in
such a manner that each drum, instead of being circular, had a projection at the back, by which it was
toothed into the masonry. This

mode

of construction

must have given great strength to the wall. The

drums of the columns were, for the most part,
only blocked out; some few, however, are fluted.

As from

the destruction of the upper part of the

stylobate,

none of the bases of the columns were

found in position, their height had to be calculated

from the general proportions of the order.

Much

was only roughly

but the execution, wherever it had
blocked out
been completed, was marked by that simplicity and
of the architectural detail
;

decision of line which characterizes the best period of

Doric architecture.

Between the cornice of the basement and

lower step a course of marble slabs

still

its

remained,

masonry behind them.

This course shows the manner in which the two
materials were bonded together.
toothed

into

great

the

number

coarser

of the steps forming the external

pyramid were discovered

in the ruins.

had an average vndth of 14f inches

On

JMost of these

for the tread.

an angle step, however, one tread measured

223

THE LEVANT.

IN

14f inclies, the otliev lU inclies and tliis smaller

dimension occurred in several other steps not be;

The depth

longing to the angles.

of the face of

the step averaged 13 inches.

may be

It

from the difference in the

inferred

width of the tread, that the area of the Pyramid,

This form

of the Mausoleum, was oblong.

that

woidd certainly be most

suitable,

if,

as can hardly

be doubted, the apex of the Pyramid served

the

pedestal for the lion.

this

monument, Plate

like

as

(See the restoration of

23.)

In one place a hole large enough to admit a man's

body had been made

On

in the wall of the

basement.

entering at this aperture, I found a circular cham-

ber within, blocked up with the ruins of

roof,

its

which, as in the case of the well-known treasury of

Atreus at Mycenas and other Greek buildings, had

been formed by a dome vaulted in the Egyptian

manner, that

to

is

say, with concentric horizontal

courses, overhanging each other so as gradually to

converge to an apex.

On
17

clearing out this chamber, T found that

feet 3 inches in diameter,

hive.

The apex

by an immense

and

in

form

it

like a bee-

of the vault has been bridged over

circidar stone,

shaped

like a

bung,

and which was employed as a kind of keystone.

his account of the treasury of Minyas, at

is

built of niarl)le,

the apex of the vault

point, but the
a^[xovla, to

is

and

is

In

Orchomenos,

Pausanias describes such a structure of roof

" It

was

^"^
:

of a circidar form

not brought to a very sharp

crowning stone

is

called the keystone,

the rest of the structure."

224

TRAVELS Axn DI-SCOYErailS

The tomb

entered by a doorway in the centre

is

of the north side

way have been

the jambs and hntel of this door-

shattered,

and

shows

their apjDearance

some time, been forced.

The pavement of the chamber was laid on the
native rock, the surface of which had been cut away
in places to receive it.
The joints of the stones were
that this entrance has, at

A large

polygonal, as in Cyclojjean masonry.

tion of

them had been taken np, doubtless

])or-

for the

purpose of ascertaining whether any treasure was

concealed below.

The lower part

of the

chamber

is,

already stated, built of marble blocks, and

with openings, which radiate

have

as I
is

pierced

embrasures fi'om the

like

centre of the chamber to the outside of the basement

There can be no doubt that these passages were

intended as receptacles for bodies.

ment of cells,
chamber,

and

or

i^rjxaj,

may be

Such an arrange-

branching out from a principal

seen in Hellenic tombs at Budrum,

at Pyli in the island of Cos.

have never,

however, before met with the circular arrangement

adopted here.

There are eleven of these

cells,

three on each

side of the tomb, except to the north,

doorw^ay

occupies the

middle place.

where the

All of

them

were choked with rubbish, but no trace of sepul-

was obtained

remains

chral

from

them,

except

some human bones.

No
in the

bones, pottery, or other antiquities, were found

chamber

way

outside,

had

originally

itself;

was a

but,

hlcytlwA

on one side of the doorS-j-o

inches high, which

been covered with black varnish

{see

I^f

the cut).

Near

225

THE LEVAXT.

were found some fragments of

it

painted vases.

The whole of the

ruins, which, except

facing the sea, extended to a

all

distance of 40 feet

round the basement, were examined stone by

and the ground underneath them dug down

stone,
to

on the side

the

native

rock,

but

no

fragment either of

sculpture or inscriptions rewarded our search.

We

are, therefore, left

without any evidence as to

the date of this tomb, except such as

is

afforded

by

of the sculpture and architecture.

the style

When compared

with the sculptures of the Mau-

soleum, this lion appears to be the work of an earUer

school
rich

the style

rather

is

and flowing.

more

severe,

If this impression

we may take the

be

and

less

correct,

half-century between B.C. 350

and B.C. 400 as the probable date of

It would, therefore,

this

tomb.

be a work of the Republican

when it is liot likely that so sumptuous a

monument would have been erected by any private
individual for his own family.
It is more probable

period,

that the

tomb was

Poh/aiidrion,

of the class called by the Greeks

such as were dedicated to the memory

of those slain in battle for their coimtry.

VOL.

II.

Q,

226

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Among
covered
in

the ruins on the western side was dis-

pai't

relief

too large

to

may

but

of a large sUib, on which was sculptured

circidar

This was evidently

shield.

have formed part of the architrave,

possibly

have

been

the

over

inserted

doorway.

tomb was a pubhc monument, the unfinished shield was probably intended to receive an
inscription recording the names and services of the
persons commemorated.
The completion of the work may have been
arrested by political events
and most probably by
If the

one of those revolutions so

common

in the I'epubhcs

of antiquity, by which a dominant party was suddenly

expelled from jDower, and
If

we suppose

this

their acts annulled.

all

tomb

to have

between B.C. 350 and B.C. 400,

it is

been erected

not improbable

commemorates the defeat of the LacedjEmonians by the Athenian commander Conon, in the
that

it

great naval action wliich took place

394.
for

The

site of

the Lion

such a monument.

tomb

It stands

is

ofi'

Cnidus B.C.

one

weU

suited

on the edge of an

abrupt precipice, cut sheer down to the sea

the summit of the p^Tamid

commands an

and

extensive

panoramic view over the Ai'chipelago.

The
Hon as

monument was crowned by

that this

fact
its

epithema corroborates the supposition that

the persons

whom

it

commemorates had been

slain

in battle.

It is clear ti-om the e\'idence of ancient

literatm'e,

that

when

the lion was placed on the

tomb of heroes, it was

valour and force. On the

selected as an
battle-field of

emblem

of

Thermopylte

227

IN THE LEVANT.

stood a marble

lion, irader

well-known epigram

which was inscribed the

by Simonides

in

liononr

of

Leonidas.

At a

Philip of

liy

the Thebans, after their defeat

later ]5eriod

Macedon

at Chgeroneia,

commemorated

countrymen by a monument surmounted

a marble lion, the fi-agments of which still remain
mark the site " fatal to liberty." "

their slain
]iy

to

The Cha^roneian
and

position,

lion is represented in a sitting-

countenance has an expression of

his

angiy defiance which would well accord with a mo-

nument designed

in

memory

of a defeat

on the

other hand, the majestic repose of the Cnidian lion

seems the

fit

expression of the calm and conscious

strength of victoiy.

what

I suppose

it

If this

monument be

really

to be, a memoi-ial of the great

naval action in which Conon defeated the Lacedae-

monians, no nobler trophy could have been chosen

than this

lion,

planted on his lofty pedestal as a con-

spicuous seamark, to remind the passing mariners

for centuries to

on the

come of the supremacy of Athens

sea.

Since

we have been engaged

in

removing the

lion,

a curious incident has occmn^ed Avhich shows that

expeditions like ours can hardly be carried on in
safety

on

this coast

without the protection of a ship

of war.

While

was at Budrum, having been authorized

by the Embassy to draAV for a large amount on the
Pasha of the district, I had no difficulty in getting

my

bills

cashed by the Mudir of Budrum.

I have been here,

my

friend

Since

Mehemet Ah, who

228

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

collects the

tribute

the peninsula over which

of

manner to be my banker,
as, hj cashing my bills, he would be enabled to
remit the tribute to the Pasha at Mughla in paper
instead of in specie.
Accordingly, I apphed to him
he

rules, ^^roposecl in like

for a remittance of
sirable to

700, and, not thinking

it

de-

have charge of so large a sum on shore,

him not

specially directed

when

to send

before a certain

it

knew that the Supply would come in

from Budrum. Mehemet Ali forthwith proceeded
day,

to call in the tribute

from

all

the

"\'illao'es

roui:d

him, which was duly paid up in copper piastres

and

Six mules having been laden

half-piastres.

with this treasure, were then despatched to Cnidus

in charge of

some

cavasses,

who were

their mission that they proclaimed

where they halted on

magnify the sum

way, taking care to

their

with,

so proud of

at every village

it

contempt

noble

that

for

exactness in figures which distinguishes the Oriental

mind.

The fame
English

ground
wide

Consul
at

and,

mad

of this treasure destined for " the

Cape

who was
Crio "

by some

holes in

the

of course spread far

and

dig-ging

singidar accident, the cavasses

contrived to arrive at Cnidus just one day sooner

than the time I had fixed.

when

piled

up on the

in

My

perplexity

was great

saw the rows of great camel' s-hair sacks

piastres

and

80,000 pieces of

floor of

my

half-jiiastres

money,

As 700 cashed

hut.

amounted

knew

that

to

about

the

mere

counting over such a sum would take hours

then the money was so bulky that

and

had no place to

IN

stow

in,

it

del)ating

take

do

it

wlietlier

all

sliould

back to Mehemet

By

the Cape.

the

Avas

order the cavasses to

Ali,

and what
to

sentinel,

I should

my

infinite

another singular accident, she too

one day before her appointed time.

arrived

another half-hour
;

sang out that the Supply was coming round

rehef,

ship

While

except an empty cask.

they refused,

if

229

THE LEVANT.

my

sacks were

and, wdth the assistance of

my

In

safe

on board

trusty

Mehemet

all

Chiaoux, who, like most inhabitants of the Levant,

takes especial delight in the handling and counting of

money,

I covered the quarter-deck all over with little

piles of

copper coins, di-sdded into decades and cen-

turies,

and arranged rank and

counting, wdiich

file

to facilitate the

we accomplished just

in time to save

the daylight.

The next morning, my Turkish workmen announced

to

me

that a strange looking vessel

had been seen

As she had thirty men on

number much exceeding the crew required

hovering on the coast.

board-

to navigate her

the

natives here at once suspected

and

that she

was a

pirate

certainty

when

she suddenly

coast, and, landing

this suspicion

became a

made a swoop on

an armed party, carried

bullock before the very eyes of an old peasant

was too frightened

The night

the

oft*

who

to offer the shghtest resistance.

after this raid. Corporal Jenkins

happened

to be keeping watch at our camp at the Lion tomb,

all alone, his Turkish workmen having deserted him

to celebrate the Bairani in a neighbouring village.

In the middle of the night he was roused by the

sound of

oars,

and saw the

piratical boat pulling

230

TPxAYELS

into tlie

where

little

AND DISCOVERIES

secluded bay below the promontory

his tent

was pitched.

Carbine in hand, he

challenged them, and, getting no satisfactory answer,

them know that he was

ready to give them a warm reception, and so fired
just over their heads.
Not liking the whistling of
thought

it

an English

as well to let

bullet,

they at once put out to sea again,

and we have seen no more of them

but, looking at

the curious coincidence of their apparition just at

moment when

money, according

to

all

reasonable calculation, would have been in

my

hut

the

the

on board the Supply, I cannot help

instead of

beheving that their

visit

was pre-arranged, possibly

of the cavasses themselves.

at the instigation

at

Ehodes, who,

my fi-iend

Mr. Campbell

like all Consuls, Avas

delighted at

reported the circumstance to

chance of reporting a case of jnracy to the

the

Admiral, in the hope of eliciting in return a

visit

fi'om a ship of war.

This

anecdote will give you some idea of the

difficulties

under which commerce

Such

this part of the Archipelago.

of

the

sea,

that

bills

is

carried on in

is

the insecurity

of exchange can only be

negotiated in those few islands where there

regular service of mail steamers.

money

is

smuggled

contraband;
turn

it

to

many

it

if

it

were

are afi'aid to

for the reputation of

man

his

life

in these

Thus commercial enterprise will remain

till some modern Minos arises to put

imdeveloped

down

In other places,

stealthily as

any proper account,

being rich has cost

islands.

in as

and those who hold

is

piracy with a strong hand.

231

IN THE LEVANT.

XL VI 1 1.
Ruins of

After

my

visit to

C'nidus,

Brancliidji?

f<epi.

last

30, 1858.

year,

re-

presented to Lord Clarendon that the statues on

Way, from

the Sacred

their

remote antiquity and

historical associations connected with the site,

would

be a most interesting acquisition for the British

Museum, and

that, if left in their present position,

they were liable to further mutilation and ultimately

to destruction.

In conseqiience of this report, a firman authorizing the

removal of those statues was obtained

from the Porte by Sir Henry Bulwer

which

furnished ^vith

I proceeded to Greronta in the Siipply on the

26th of last mouth.

I took with

me

Corporal Jenkins, sixty Tm"kish

workmen from Cnidus, tents, and all the tools and

tackle necessary. Encamping on the Sacred Way, we
lost

no time in transporting to the shore at Karakoi

the ten seated figures, with the lion and sphinx.

distance

is

The

about three miles, the road an easy

we were pro^dded with excellent

four-wheeled trucks, we accomplished the work of
incline,

and, as

transport at the

rate

of

statue

per diem.

object

of our

made some excavations along

Sacred Way.
Behind the row of

the line

After accomplishing this

expedition, I

of the

one

was a continuous

jjrincipal

statues

line of wall, marking the edge of

232
tlie

TKAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

ridge, wliicli I'uns to the nortli-west, along the

side of the

Way.

Beginning

fi-om the south-east I hiid bare this

wall for 73 feet,

when

I found its line interrupted

by a concrete foundation of an oblong form, in

which was a large l)lock of a kind of limestone, about
7 feet long

by 2

feet 8

On one

inches thick.

face

of this block was an inscription in archaic Gi'eek

characters, containing a dedication by the sons of

Anaximander, of some work of

the opposite face of the stone.

form of the
dedication

was of the same age

described ante, p. 76

As

should suppose

letters

the base

is

work

as that

From

the

that

this

on the

lion,

namely, about B.C. 560.

narrow in proportion to

and as the inscription

face, the

by an

This inscription was re-

artist called Terpsikles.

peated on

art executed

its length,

repeated on the opposite

is

of Terpsikles

may have been

a group

sculptured in the round.

This stone had evidently been removed from

its

the concrete foundation

in

original

which

it

position,

as

was embedded seemed

to be Byzantine.

continued to trace this wall to the north-west for

about 800 feet from the point where we commenced

digging.

Its

masonry was

regular,

but did not

seem to be Hellenic, except for about 16 feet in the

latter part of the line, where we came to a wall of
very massive masonry,
nearly 12 feet long.

one

This

stone

may have been

of the basement of an. ancient tomb.

this line of wall, I explored the
I

of which Avas

Way

found the southern kerbstones

still

the side

While tracing
itself,

of which

in jDOsition.

233

TN THE LEVANT.

Tliey consisted of a single course of rougli blocks

well jointed together, witli headers at intervals laid

One

on the native rock.

4

feet

4 inches by

of these l)locks

measured

foot by 14 inches.

AVe traced this line of kerbstones for 133 feet

to the north-west.

No

pavement remained

in

other part of the original

position.

It

was probably

composed of polygonal blocks nicely adjusted, as in

Cyclopean masonry. The Avidth of the roadway

was probably about 20 feet.

Along the side of the Way were two basements
of tombs, which appeared to be Hellenic, and which
had an external casing of four slabs fitted together
like a box, and resting on a moulded plinth.
Witliin
was

this casing

solid

one of these tomljs

masonry.

In the centre of

was an oblong

slab pierced in

the middle with a round hole, and laid on the earth.

Two

skulls

tomb, and

and part of a skeleton were found

in the

in this

other two fragments of a small

draped terra-cotta figure of a good period.

To

the north-west, beyond the point to which

we

traced the line of kerbstones, were foundations of

several other basements of tombs.

One

was
built of massive blocks, the largest of which measured
10 feet in length. The courses, 3 feet 4 inches in
of these

width, enclosed an oblong area without pavement,

in the centre of

which was a slab pierced in the

middle with a circular hole, as in the tomb already

noticed.

The masonry

good, and

it

may have been

materials of an earlier
site.

of this basement

tomb

was not

constructed out of the

to

mark some sacred

234

TRAVELS AND PISCOVERIES

me

These operations occupied

August

from the 26th of

when we

to the latter part of September,

retiirned to Cnidus.

have -gashed to have more completely

I could

explored
statues

Way, where other

Sacred

the

archaic

and inscriptions would probably be found

the whole site were dug over.

of dysentery

But the appearance

among my workmen warned me

that

my

the unhealthy season had commenced, and that

little

if

camp would soon become

a hospital, and as

the pro^^sions of the Supply were running short,

and her departure

thought

layed, I

for

Malta could not be long de-

better to bring the BranchidfB

it

expedition to a close, while

we

could avail ourselves

of her services.

Before leaving Geronta, I spent a day at Palatia,

the ancient Miletus, distant about two hours to the

was glad to hear diu"ing my visit that

Prince Ghika, the Caimacam of Samos, had been
making excavations near Palatia. He is a man
north.

who has

with enlightened views,

more

for the

civilization

been attempted by any of

of Polykrates.

He

of his
its

perhaps,

done,
island

than has

rulers since the days

has a taste for archfeology,

which has led to some interesting discoveries at

Samos.

Wlien

years ago,

met him

he told

me

This island, lying a

people of Nicaria.

the west of Samos,

at Constantinople

is

two

a curious anecdote of the

so barren

little

to

and so destitute of

harbours that the inhabitants are forced to maintain

themselves
opposite.

by charcoal-burning on the mainland

Tlieir poverty is extreme,

tlie

235

THE LKVANT.

IN

most barbarous of

and they

all

are considered

islanders

tlie

in

the

Once upon a time, a Nicariote

SmjTna long enough to imbibe

Tiu'kish Archipelago.

wlio had resided at

a taste for civilization, on returning to his native

country, ventured to set up a four-post bedstead.

His fellow countrymen resented the innovation as

warmly

as if

he had

up

set

Breaking-

his carriage.

open the door of the unhappy Sybarite when he

was comfortably asleep, they tore the bed from

under him, and made a bonfire of it in the marketand since that day no Mcariote has ever
ventured to deviate from the Spartan simjilicity of
place

life

Avhich has l^een

tions in this quaint

handed down

for

many

genera-

little island.

The Supply left us on the '28th, bound for Malta

and England. She took mtli her the big lion and
upwards of 100 cases of sculpture and other antiquities,

and

will

retui-n

to this place

next spring.

During her absence, Admiral Fanshawe promises

send a ship of war here about once a month

to

to replenish our

provisions

and

see

how we

are

getting on.

Our

little

ten persons.

on

six

now reduced to
Smith has gone home in the Supplj^

English colony here

is

months' leave of absence.

Mr. Pullan and

the two photographic sappers have also

the

departm^e of the

services of

left us,

me

Supply deprives

and

of the

Mr. Hughes, her carpenter, who, duinng

the most of the time since

at Cnidus, has been with

we have

me on

l^een established

shore,

services have been of very great value.

and whose
I

have

still.

236

TIUVBLS AND DISCOVERIES

liowever,

my

trusty Corporal Jenkins at

my

right

and two steady sappers, one a smith and the

and with their assistance I hojje

liand,

other a carpenter

to keep the rest of the

party in a

fair

state

of

disciphne.

XLIX.
Cnidus, December 25,

If Halicarnassus could boast of

and Rhodes of

its

18-58.

Mausoleum,

its

bronze Colossus, the httle state of

Cnidus could point with just pride to

its

Aplu"odite, the masterpiece of Praxiteles,

statue of

exchange

which Nicomedes, king of Bithynia, offered to

for

redeem the whole public debt of the

under

the

Roman

celebrity that the

city,

Empire, attained
dilettanti

of

all

and which,
so

great

countries

were

attracted to Cnidus solely for the sake of seeing this

famous work.
In the dialogue called " Amores," Lucian gives

an account of one of these pleasant pilgrimages, and

upon the matchless beauties of the statue

language so lively and forcible that we can hardly

discourses
in

suppose so glowing a description to have been made

\\\)

from accounts of other

travellers,

still

less

to

have been a mere figment of the imagination.

If,

then, Lucian actually ^asited Cnidus, there

no reason

to

is

doubt the accuracy of his statement

that the temple in which the statue of Venus was

enshrined was very small, with an entrance at either

end,

and that around

it

was a spacious temenos,

IN

237

THE LEVANT.

planted with shady trees, and affording an agreeable

place of resort to the people of Cnidiis.

But

in

what part of the ancient

was

city

this

temenos ?

"When we survey the

entire site contained within

the ancient walls, the eye singles out a conspicuous

platform which ovei'looks our encampment, and in

the

which

of

centre

Corinthian temple.

are

This

of

ruins

the

platform,

small

has been

as

already noticed, has been bounded on the south by a

Doric colonnade overlooking the harbour, and on

by an Odeum. The extent of this platform,

commanding and conspicuous position, and the

the west
its

small scale of the temple, led Colonel Leake to consider this the site of the celebrated

But if Luciaii's
mere rhetorical

Temple of Venus.'"

description of the temenos

invention,

it

is

not a

suggests to us a

site

very different in character from the platform sur-

The temenos of

rounding the Corinthian temple.

Lucian's Aphi-odisium abounded in trees and orna-

mental shrubs, Avhich afforded a grateful shade to the

citizens.

The

platform, on the contrary,

is

much

ex-

posed in winter to the north wind, which sweeps over

the city with extraordinary fury.
of the most arid

Doubtless
irrigation

how

soil is at

present

and contains no springs.

may have been

from conduits, but

artificially fertilized
it is difficult

by

to imagine

a grove planted there could have had that

sheltered
chief

it

kind,

The

and

retired character

charm of Lucian's

would rather lead us

which formed the

temenos.

His description

to look for the site of the

temenos somewhere in the

enwons

of the city, on

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

238

ground broken by ravines and sheltered by mountains.

of the Corinthian temple are of the

The rums

Roman

period,

and are probably

at least as late as

the time of the Antonines.

AVe made an excavation here in two places, but

found nothing to encourage us to continue.

We

met with neither inscriptions nor architectural fragments of an earher and pm^er period, such as might
have been expected, had this temple been built, as
Colonel Leake supposes, on the site of the earher

Aphrodisium

for

which the work of Praxiteles was

originally designed.

examiued a mass of ruins lying on the

north side of this platform, among which I noticed
I next

an inscription

fii'st

pnbhshed by Mr. W.

J.

Hamilton,

in

which the people of Cnidus decree divine honours

to

some public benefactor, who

is

described as priest

The honours

of Ai'temis lakynthotrophos.''"

to be

paid to him are cro'wns of gold and ohve, statues in

bronze, in marble, and in gold

proclamations, and

the most honourable seats in aU the public

mamtenance

for himself

expense of the State

and

his descendants at the

a public

fimerijl

and a monument to be placed

spicuous part of the

trophos

an

altar,

in

Gymnasium

to be placed in the temple

games

on his death,

the

most con-

a golden statue

of Ai'temis' lakyntho-

sacrifices,

a procession, and a

quinquennial gymnastic contest.

As

these

games

were to be called the Artcmidoreia, there can hardly

be a doubt that the citizen thus honoured was
Ai-temidoros,

probably the

very

man who gave

THE LEVANT.

IN

on

Julius CsBsar warning

and

whom Phitarch

day of

his assassination,

describes as a teacher of rhetoric,

Rome, but

resident at

tlie

L'oD

a native of Cnidus.

This Artemidoros had a son, Tlieopompos,

whom

Strabo mentions as a person of great influence, and

a friend of Augustus, and who, as we learn from

another Cnidian inscription, was called Oaius Julius,

whom

evidently in honour of the Bmjjeror, of

his

Both father
was so devoted an adherent.
and son were men of the same class as theu-

father

contemporaries at Lesbos

and Potamo

who turned
to

(see aide,

I.

Theophanes,

Lesbonax,

pp. 66-8), -shrewd courtiers,

their infliience with the reigning

good account

Emperor

for the benefit of their native city,

and whose patriotism was rewarded with the most

extravagant honours.

little

inscription
Avest

to

the noi'th

was

lying, is a street

through the ancient

platform on the north.

street is

spot where this

of the

running east and

and bounding the

city,

At the point where

this

mtersected by another coming from the

south, I noticed two lines of Hellenic wall meeting

and rismg about one

at right angles,

the surface of the ground.

On

coiu-se

dio-o-iiig

above

within this

angle, I found the foundations of these walls at the

depth of about seven

feet.

The masonry may be

described as a plinth smmiounted by a course of

broad

slabs,

set

back to back, above. which was a

string-course, the whole of limestone.

Above

this

limestone base had been a wall built of tufa, covered

with

painted

stucco.

Following

uncovered an area extending 58

these
feet

lines,

by 51

feet.

240

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

Tlie interior

was divided

nearly equal

three

into

spaces by party walls running from

nortli to south,

these beins: as-ain subdivided into smaller chambers

by

from east to west, which appear to be

cross- walls

In the south-east angle was a

of a late period.

mosaic pavement,

-nath

a simple pattern worked in

Near

black on a white ground.

pavement I

this

found a limestone base, the inscription on which

showed that
Hermes.

it

In

had formed the plinth of a term of

inscription,

this

Iambic and partly

in

which

is

partly in

Trochaic verse, Hermes himself

addresses the reader, and speaks of his OAvn arrival

as

he had been newly imported into Cnidus.

if

same building I found a base with a

dedication to the same Artemis lakynthotrophos

Within

who

this

mentioned in the inscription relating to

is

Artemidoros.^^

We

dug up here some fragments of Ionic

and architraves, cut out of a calcareous

also

capitals

Many

small fragments of

in the soil,

on which the orna-

tufa covered with stucco.

this stucco

were found

ments with which

fi'esh.

it

had been painted were

still

quite

Red, yellow, black, and occasionally green,

were the colours employed.

At

the depth of 4 feet

below the sm'face was a layer of potsherds, extending

over the greater part of the

many

site

among which were

grotesque figm^es in relief from lamps and

small vases..

The general plan

this

site

of the building which occupies

suggests the notion that

formed part of a Gi/miutsium; and

it

tliis

may have

conjecture

is

confirmed by the discovery of the base of a terminal

IN

241

THE LEVANT.

statue of Hermes, the patron of the palo'stra, and

by the mention of a Gi/muasnun.

in the insci'iption

relating to Artemidoros, ah-eady referred to,

was foimd near

this

found on this

contained a dedication to

site

place.

which

inscription

third

7!-ei(nvous,

" the persuader of the mind," an epithet which pro-

Hermes as the god of eloquence.^"

Gymnasium extended over this
probably occupied much of the extensive

bably designates
If

we

site,

sujjpose that a
it

platform to the south

and the discovery of two

dedications to Artemis Iakynthotro]3hos so near the

makes

small Corinthian temple,

probable that

it

was dedicated to that deity rather than

as

it

to Aphrodite,

Leake supposed.
I have already noticed that the south side of

the great platform has been bounded by a Doi'ic

colonnade.

It

has been supposed by Colonel Leake

may have been

that this

the pensilis nmbnlatio, or

terrace supported on columns built by Sostratos,

the architect of the celebrated Pharos at Alexandria,

Among

and a native of Cnidus.

of

this

portico,

inscribed -with the

noticed

name

of

the ruins, however,

a piece of architrave

Theopompos

in majuscule

characters.*^'

This

was

probably

whom

Artemidoros,

occurrence of his

the

Theopompos,

have mentioned

name on

On

age.

temple,

encampment
VOL.

tl.

of

was a work of the

the shore below this portico

large

son

and the

the architrave would lead

to the conclusion that the sfoa

Augustan

is

within
placed.

is

the perlhoJos

the site of a
of

which our

This was probably dedicated

242

TRAVELS AXD DISCOVERIES

to Dionysos, as immediately to the east of

it is

the

theatre which has been ah-eady noticed (antr, p. 173).

To the

east of this theatre a broad terrace runs along

the shore of the great harbour, above

its

sea wall.

About half-way between the theatre

eastern wall of the city

the side of the

an alcove

is

and facing the

hill

was

of the terrace below

and

built against

Xear the

sea.

edg-e

a pedestal of white marble

inscribed with a dedication to Serapis and

gratitude for the cure of

the

some

Lieutenant

disease.

Smith made an excavation here on a

tions a httle to the east of the

Isis, in

line of founda-

and

alcove,

dis-

covered a small theatre facing the south, which,

from the smalbiess of

Odeum where

was evidently an

scale,

musical contests must have taken

The chord

place.

its

of

its

arc measured 23

feet

inches.^"*

had a platform formed of a

single row of large blocks, which must have supInstead of a sccna,

it

ported a screen of metallic railings, with a gate at

shown by the sockets cut at intervals

in the pavement.
The substitution of this screen of
metal for the usual solid masonry of the sceiia
each end, as

is

may be accounted
cavea-

for

by the

no boundary wall on

fact that in so small a

this side

required to condense the sound.

would have been

In

of the

fi-ont

platform was a pedestal occupying the centre of the

space usually assigned in the ancient Greek theatre
to

the

pedestal

is

foot

step led up to

called

The

orchestra.

it

by the Greeks

present

inches

its

on the west.
thijmele,

height
length

On

of

this

feet.

this base,

the performer must

243

IN THE LEVANT.

have stood, as we see by the pictures on several

vases,

On

on which mnsical contests are represented.

digging to the south of the alcove, a concentric

semicircular foundation immediately in front of

was

laid bare,

it

below which were a series of steps and

landing-jjlaces leading

down

to the terrace below.

These steps were of good masonry, and had been

veneered with marble.^^ The proximity of the alcove

Odeum, and its aj^sidal form, suggest to me

the idea that it was a tribune where the judges
sat, by whom prizes were awarded to the victors
to the

in the musical contests.

About 200 yards

to the north-east of this alcove

was a small platform covered with Byzantine ruins,

and bounded on the south by a wall, the beautifid
masonry of which showed that it was of a good
period of art. Clearing away the ruins on the surface,
which evidently belonged to a Byzantine church,

came

to the foundations of a small Doric temple,

65 feet long by 49 wide,

The

southern front.

nntli four

columns

in the

two

interior is divided into

nearly equal compartments by a wall running east

and west, and the northernmost of these compart-

ments

is

again subdivided into two chambers.

front of the colonnade,

court bounded

l)y

attention on this

boundary or

on the south,

the wall which

site,

first

is

attracted

my

and Avhich forms the external

jirriJiolo)^.^'^

The temple stands on a

platform cut like a step out of the side of the

and bounded on the north and east

cutting in the native I'ock.

roimd these

In

a small

sides

by a deep

deep drain running

sides carries off the water

B 2

hill,

from the

hill.

244

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

On

the stylobate

were

built

and

trave,

was a Byzantiue

many fragments

of

tlie

The diameter

frieze.

wall, into wliicl

columns,

arclii-

of the columns,

taken at 4 feet 6 inches above the stylobate, was

The bases of three of the columns

1 foot 11 inches.

being found in position on the stylobate, showed

that the intercolumniation equalled two and a half
diameters.

The Order and the upper part of the

temple were built of
with

Below

fine stucco.

chambers were

tufa,

built of

walls of the

which had been covered

this tufa, the walls of the

grey marble, the stmcture

being the same as that of the supposed Gymna-

sium

ante)

(see

back on a

plinth,

at the height of

The

viz.,

two

and surrounded by a string-course,

feet 2 inches

from the foundations.

interior surface of these slabs

lished,

back to

slabs placed

was

finely po-

and the joints adjusted with a nicety hardly

to be surpassed in the finest cabinetmaker's work.

This

mode

tecture

and

of combining marble and tufa in archi-

was evidently much

Halicarnassus,

in

in use at Cnidus,

buildings

require very massive walls.

Rhodes,

which did not

I have already remarked,

in the description of

Rhodes

where such a mode

of building prevailed,

must necessarily be fewer

{ante,

vestiges of

tecture than where marble has been

p.

178), that

there

Greek archi-

more generally

employed.
In the course of the excavations,
portions

we dug up

of six statuettes, which appear to repre-

sent Muses, an opinion which

is

confirmed by the

evidence of two inscriptions discovered on this

site.

245

IN THE LEVANT.

One

of these

a dedication to the Muses of a statue

is

of a cei'tain Glykinna, of which Epikrates

named

is

as the sculptor."*^

The other

a circular altar inscribed with a de-

is

dication to Apollo Pythios

by Kephisodoros, chief

magistrate {Denu'cnirgos) of Cnidus;'*^

The e^adence of these two dedications

gives rea-

sonable ground for supposing that the temple was

dedicated to Apollo Pythios and the Muses
this

by the

confii-med

is

statuettes, the types of

These statuettes

represented.
feet high,

of so

and

many

which correspond so nearly

under which the Muses

with those

two

discovery

are

have been

usually

about

and were probably placed in niches

in

the walls of the chambers, as at regular intervals

in the

marble string-courses ledges are

cut, suitable

to receive the bases of such small figures.

Near the

marked Agora

site

in the Plan, I

found a

block of marble inscribed with a dedication of some

work

of art to

The

Boulaia.

Athene Nikephoros

dedicator

the Senate {Bonle), the

son of Menippos, a
bably in Greek

was

set

up

is

name

and Hestia

one Hagias, secretary of

of the artist, Zenodotos,

Cnidian.**^

In Athens, and pro-

cities generally,

a statue of Hestia

in the Prytaneion, a building

where pnbhc

guests were fed at the expense of the State, and

which at Cnidus, as we learn from another

inscrip-

p. 238), was called Demiom-gion.

The Senate probably met in this building, which
may have stood somewhere near the presumed site

tion

(see

aiife,

of the Agora.

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

246

L.
CjfiDUs,

of

March

1859.

15,

HAVE already noticed in the general description

Cnidus

{ante, p.

called Triopion,

168),

the rocky promontory

which forms the bulwark of

bours, and which was probably occupied

its

har-

by the

first

Greek settlers, before they estabhshed themselves on

On

the mainland opposite.

this Triopian

headland

mem-

stood a temple dedicated to Apollo, where the

bers of a league of maritime states, originally caUed

the Dorian Hexapolis, met, and where games in

honour of Apollo, Poseidon, and the Nymphs were

celebrated.

The

states

six

federation were the

composing

this

con-

three Ehodian cities Lindus,

Camirus, lalysus, together

Cnidus, Cos, and

\dt\\

Hahcarnassus.

How
know

was estabhshed we do not

early this league

but some time before the Persian war, the

people of Halicamassus were excluded from

consequence, as

we

are told

act of one of their citizens, Agasikles,

tripod had been adjudged to

Triopian

festival,

took

instead of dedicating

it
it

it,

in

by Herodotus, of the
him

away

who,

after a

as a prize in the

to his

to Apollo.

own

house,

Thenceforth

the league was called the Doric Pentapolis.

It is

probable that the increasing predominance of the

Carian element in the population of Halicamassus

contributed to

its

exclusion fi'om the leagiie.

How

247

IN THE LEVANT.

much longer after this event the confederacy lasted

we are not informed but it is not likely to have
;

survived the foundation of Ehodes, B.C. 408, by

which the

members

importance of the three Rhodian

political

of the Pentapolis

must have been annihi-

lated.

I was in hope that some trace of the ancient

Temple of Apollo might still be met with on Cape
The
Crio but my search has been quite unavailing.
;

ground

is

in

most places

difficult to find

so steep, that

it

would be

an area large enough for a temple

but the ancient terraces which supported the

seem

have been very generally replaced here by

to

walls of inferior

may

masonry

the site of the temple

away by

therefore have been swept

which,

soil

if

torrents,

not intercepted by ducts and cisterns, would

here carry everything before them.

The only ruins of

interest

the peninsula Avere those of a

which

I could find

Roman tomb,

on

situated

on rocky ground outside the western wall of the

city (sec Plate 21).

It

was discovered by Corporal

Spackman, who, penetrating

into

middle

the

some brushwood, stumbled on part of

statue

in

white

marble.

On

clearing

bushes and removing a quantity of

I laid bare the foundations of a
in plan

some of the

soil

a-

of

female

away the
and rubble,

tomb, resembling

early Christian churches.

It

consists of a chamber, A\dth a vestibule on the north

and an apse or alcove on the south.

Avall is

In each side

a smaller apse or alcove.""

In front of each alcove was a sarcophagus of

white marble, nine feet long.

The alcove on the

248

TRAVELS AND DISCOYEEIES

'

west had contained the marble statue, the discovery

of wliich in the brushwood had originally induced

me

to explore this tomb.

The body of

alcove,

all

in

good condition.

may

but the arms; but fi-om the head to the

waist the surface

is

In the

completely destroyed.

this figm-e holds the

Ceres, the poppy-head

di'ess

and

down-

on a marble

the fragments which remain, the figure

be restored,

hand

original position,

its

pavement within the

From

figure, fi'om the waist

this

wards, I found in

left

well-known attributes of

and ears of

The head-

corn.

seems to be that in use in the time of Domitian,

when Roman
di'esses

ladies took delight in

composed of

parallel

buildmg up head-

rows of

As the statue is certainly of

may represent some empress
Ceres.
The di-apery is rather

the
in

curls.

Roman

period,

it

character of

the

hea'V'y,

'^

though not

ill

composed.

At the

feet of this

statue Ave found

numbers of

small lamps of coarse red unglazed ware, of the

Roman
ings.

These were doubtless votive

period.

Two

offer-

of the sarcophagi were riclaly decorated

with festoons suspended at the angles fi-om SatjTs'

by naked boys standing on

Above these festoons are two Gorgons'

heads, and sustained

pilasters.

heads, in rehef

and, on one of the sarcophagi the

bust of a draped male figure, doubtless the portrait

of the person interred within.^"

In the earth near the base of the statue, and in

one of the alcoves, were several fi^agments of thin

marble slabs on which decrees of the Senate and

people of Cnidus have been inscribed.

These have

249

THE LEVANT.

IN

been sawn at the backs, and may have been

let into

The only one of these fragwhich the snbject can be clearly made out,

the walls of the tomb.

ments of

contains a decree relating to a certain Lyksethios or

whom

LykiBthion, son of Ainstokleides,

the Senate

and people of Cnidus honoured with a crown and a

A commissioner

statue for public services.

who

in the decree,

receive

to

is

is

named

fi'om the presi-

dent of the Senate 3,500 drachmge, equal to about

109.

7s. 6d., for

the expense of setting up the statue.

It is cui'ious that in this inscription

title

by which the

office

word

of president of the

Senate was desio-nated at Cnidus.

that this

word occurs

in the single passage

in

in the Senate

am

not aware

any ancient author except

it is

referred to by Plu-

ratified

by open vote, both

where

The decree was

tarch.

find the

which we know from Plutarch to have been

a(psrrTri^,

the

we

and the assembly of the people, and

The

carried in both bodies unanimously.

inscription

has recorded the number of votes given on this occasion

but an unlucky

fi-acture

of the marble in

an interesting piece of

this place has deprived us of

information.'^

We

learn from the Politics of Aristotle that the

Senate of Cnidus originally consisted of sixty

bers,

called dixvYj^ovsg.

No

a senator during his fathei-'s lifetime,

brothers, only the first-ljorn.

which

mem-

son was eligible to be

The

and,

among

revolution

this constitution Avas abolished at

by

Cnidus was

brought about by the people, under the leadership

members of the oligarchical families.

These changes must have taken place some time

of the excluded

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

250
before
tliey

tlie

are

tlie Politics

of Aristotle, in wliich

recorded, and were

probably connected

date of

code of laws introduced by the Cnidian

with, the

astronomer Eudoxos

in

native city about the

liis

time of Mausolos.
Lucian, in his description of the Temple of Venus,

speaks of the

from

the

da-rixoi

TroT^trtKog

at

who, even as

may have

of the

da-riHoi

old

were

oligarchical

the time of Lucian,

late as

some of their original privileges,

apart from the rest of the citizens, in the
retained

and lived
da-Tit,

These

o^y\.os.

probably the descendants

families,

Cnidus as distmguished

or older quarter of the city."*

The

was

chief magistrate at Cnidus

uurgos, a

name

called Vciui-

in use in other Doric states.

The other fragments of

inscriptions also appear

The age of these

be the same as that of the

to form part of lionorary decrees.

inscriptions appears to

statue

but

it is

not certain that they were ever set

up in the tomb, though, on the whole,

this

seems not

tomb may have

been erected at the expense of the State. The walls of
In

improbable.

tliis

latter case the

the alcoves have been lined

A^ith

a wainscoting of

white marble, veneered in thin shoes, above which I

found stucco, ornamented

stripes.

with

vertical

ci'imson

In the rubble I found a number of

of coloured marbles,

which must

also

the walls.

cut into

have been used

dug the ground

the hope of finding graves

chral remains turned up.

all

slices

geometrical forms,
in the decoration of

rovmd

this

tomb

in

but no trace of sepid-

IN

TliJi

251

LEVANT.

LI.
Cnidus, March

After examiniug

workmen

this

1859.

ir>,

tomb, I transferred

my

to the Necropolis, lying immediately to

the east of the city, on the mainland {sec Plate 21).

The ancient road which issues from the city on this

side is easily traced by the roAV of tombs on each
side.

This road, after skirting the steep side of a mountain spvir, runs to the edge of a deep ravine,

must have been anciently bridged

point

may be

it

The tombs

square basements, covered with

From

over.

traced at intervals

miles, as far as Yasi-koi.

a,

which

foi'

this

about six

are generally

fiat

which

roof,

forms a platform, on which have stood round altars

or clppi.

Many

of

them

are built against sloping-

ground, and therefore consist of only three

Avails.

basements are chambers, sometimes

Inside these

rectangular, sometimes arched over with a barrel

and lined with stucco.

vaiilt,

In

many

cases a periholos wall surrounds two or

more adjacent tombs

considered the

tomb.

The

Ukron

the space thus enclosed

or sacred precinct rotmd the

cippl are almost always circular,

have stood on squai-e plinths.

ornamented with a snake

They

I first

coiled i-ound in relief,

began exploring

and

are generally

sometimes with festoons suspended from

When

may be

and

bulls' heads.

this Necropolis, the

252

TEAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

ground was so overgrown

brusliwood, that

witli

it

was very difficult to make out anything. One day,

crawhng on my hands through the bushes, with
hope

vague

the

stumbhng

of

on the tomb of

the Cnidian astronomer Eudoxos, as Cicero found

that of Archimedes amid the dumofa of the Necropolis

Syracuse, I came suddenly on a block of

at

marble, on which was engraved in fine characters

a Greek inscription
inscription
is

verse. ^^

elegiac

in

the traveller, before

invited to turn a

little

oiit

entering the city,

of his road to visit

the temcnos of the hero Antigonos,

some

In this

who was probably

mjiihical or semi-historical personage honoui'ed

with a sacred precinct round his tomb.

Within
tell

this

trmenos, the inscription proceeds to

the traveller, were a temple and an altar,

raele,

where poets might

dadium and

paJoestra

playing on the syrinx.

tluj-

I'ecite

their compositions

baths,

and a statue of Pan

The whole

precinct

must

therefore be regarded as a ij)jinnasnmi, which

was

probably bequeathed for that purpose by the hero

Antigonos, just as the gardens called Akademia, at

Athens, were said to have been given originally by

the hero Akademos.

From

a comparison of the commencement of the

inscription with the

two

last lines,

it

may be inferred

that the statue of Hermes, as tenienouros, or guardian

of the temenos, stood at the entrance, and that the

god himself is supposed to

From

the opening lines,

addi'ess the traveller.

it is

clear that the temenos

stood near the public road, and at a short distance

from the

city.

253

IN THE LEVANT.

The

inscription describes the temple as sitnated in

a ravine, ayxos, apparently on the left-hand side of

Between the spot where

the road.

and the

inscription

no

level

foinid the

city gate are several ravines,

ground suitable

eai'thquakes, however,

foi-

a ijolcestra

but

and stadium

and aqueous deposit from the

mountains may have greatly changed the aspect of

this district.
site

As

the inscription mentions baths, the

was probably near some natiiral fountain, of which

there are several along this road.

I should

that the stone, being of small dimensions,

mention

may

easily

have been transported from a distance to the spot

where I found

The

it.

association

of

athletic

worship of the Muses, and

contests,

was very general

Such an union was,

^\'ith

exercises with
poetical

the

and musical

in the ancient gijmnasia.

in fact, to the

Greek mind only

the expression of the general idea that the highest

training, mental

and bodily, should be rhythmical.

Very near the spot where

this

inscription

was

row of short thick columns in a

dense mass of brushwood, clearing away which, I

lying, I noticed a

laidbai'e the foundations of an early Christian church,

of which the east end terminates in an apse.

I

made an excavation

here,

and about two

feet

below the surface came upon the pavement of the

church.

This was chiefly composed of slabs, bearing-

Greek sepulchral inscriptions, which had e^^dently

been

stripped

from

neighbouring

tombs

in

this

Necropolis.

The

larger of these slabs

sarcophagi

had been the

the smaller ones were generally

sides of
stelce

or

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

254

Others wei^e on square plinths,

upriglit tombstones.

had stood.
generally commences with

on which short sepulchral columns or

In these the inscription
the words

and the deceased person

6 ^S.y.os,

"Hf/wg. Nearly

all

cippi

styled

is

the inscriptions were of the

Roman

and most of them probably belong to the

second and third centuries A.D.
The only ones of much interest were the epitaph of

period,

named

a lady

Atthis, in elegiac verse, dedicated

her husband, and a

list

of the subscriptions contri-

buted by the members of a

were

by

thia.ms.^'^

reliaious societies or clubs,

These

thuisi

which assembled

periodically to perform sacrifices in honoiir of

some

particular deity.
It is evident

from the examination of

this little

church that the early Christian inhabitants of Cnidus

must have
it is

the

was

rifled

an immense number of tombs, and

probable that in this and other ancient

amount
very

of

treasure

large,

and

found

A\ath

dead

the

may have formed

cities

a con-

siderable item in the revenue of the monasteries,

which we so constantly

Greek

find planted in the midst of

ruins.

It is evident that

during the latter days of Paganism

this kind of sacrilege

grew more and more frequent

hence, in the later sepidchral inscriptions, the imprecations constantly invoked on the head of the

tomb-burglar, and l^acked by menaces of hea\'y

When,

fines.

however, under the influence of Christianity,

the sepidchres of Pagan ancestors ceased to be re-

garded as sacred, and the vengeance of their Manes

was despised, an universal

raid

was made against

255

IN THE LEV.WT.

the tombs

and thus

-we find in Italy

an edict of the

Gothic king Theodoric, setting forth, that whereas

so

much

it

was the

was locked up in tombs,

men to set it free by desecra-

vahiable treasure
dixty of all

ting the dead."

On

an eminence a

church

is

veiy

little

to the east of the ancient

remarkable

which

torali,

attracted the notice of Texier, Hamilton,

has

and other

travellers.
It consists of

two square basements,

centre of a precinct or periholo^, which

by a wall 125
north
is

is

surrounded

This wall, except on the

feet square.

very perfect state.

side, is in a

jilaced in the

The entrance

The basements are each

Upon them have stood small

at the south-east angle.

about 20 feet square.

composed of hexagonal blocks placed one on

pillars,

another, each course consisting of a single block.

is

It

probable, as several travellers have supposed, that

these structures were surmounted by bronze tripods,

for Texier found

upper

surface,

one with four sockets sunk in the

Avliich

is

engraved

in

his

" Asie

Mineure," and which he considers the uppermost

These blocks are now

hexagon.

and

all throT\ai

down,

al)out the basement.

lie

AVe cut trenches in various parts of the

and dug

periboloii,

round the basements, of which the one

nearest to the west had on each side small squareheaded

all

cells.

In these I found three small stone

and a fragment of a

name

foiu-th inscribed with the

" Kourotrophos," an epithet of the Chthonic

deity,

Demeter or

cists,

No

Gaia.'*

other sepulchral remains were found in these

256

TEAVELS AND DTSCOVEUTES

three very

except

cells,

and

was evident fi'om

it

they liad

that

lieon

coarse impainted vases

tlie

position of the cists

The

opened and disturbed.

excavation, however, clearly proved that the whole

site

was

sepulcln-al

the extensive enclosui-e round

the tomb was probably a temenos, or precinct dedicated to some deity or hero.

While

Ave

were exploring

set of pioneei'S Avith

brushwood between

this

tomb, I detached a

felling-axes to
this

site

clear

and the

away the
They

city.

had made considerable progress in this Avork Avhen

I received a despatch from Lord Malmesbury, instructing

me

and

much

Avith

to bring the expedition to

a close

reluctance I abandoned the Necro-

poUs, of which I had as yet explored only a small

portion.

Before leaAang this ground I

tions

on the slopes near the

made

several excaA'a-

architectui-al

tombs,

Avith

a view of ascertaining whether there were any graves

in the

soil,

as at

Budrum and Calymnos.

I found no trace of such graA^es, but the extent

of ground coA'ered by the Necropolis

that no such casual examination of

sidered conclusive.

was

so great

can be con-

Graves are best discovered by

peasants in the ordinary course of

district

it

has been cleared.

tillage,

after a

257

IN THE LEVANT.

LI

I.

Cnidus,

May

1859.

25,

Since I liave received the order to cease

all

ex-

cavations, we have been occupied in packing up all

our stores, so as to be ready to embark as soon as

the Supply arrives, which will I hope be in a few

days.

The Coquette, which

ago, brought back

who

much

returned

furlough.

It

him here

my

was a great

command

satisfaction to

months'

me

to see

higher rank, has been in

the winter, was suddenl)- laid low by a

fever,

which brought on congestion of the

I cured

Our

severe bleeding.
after

six

his

have had rather too much on

officer of

and which

brain,

by

of the small detachment of sappers and

all

dangerous

a few weeks

Corporal Jenkins, who, in the

lately.

absence of any

us

messmate Lieut. Smith,

old

refi-eshed

ao^ain, for I

hands

marines

my

visited

by the desperate remedy of

httle colony has

by Admiral Fanshaw

all

been looked

the winter, and ac-

cording to his promise, a ship of war has called

month

regularly every
lately,

when an

interval of

before the Coquette

me

since the

came

in.

into a curious difficulty

terious visit of a pirate last

well not to let

sum

in

my

VOL. N.

Supply

till

two months occurred

Their non-arrival put

remembering the myssummer, I thought it as

anybody suspect that

hut for the payment of

s

left,

I kept a large

my

Turkish

TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES

258

workmen.
I

So

after tlie

my

discontinued

Supply

usual

left

us last autumn

announced that the workmen would

paid once a montk, after

war, which was

to

naturally inferred from

ship brought
fiction

me

future be

My

periodically.

that each

this

a fresh supply of

was kept up

in

arrival of the ship of

tlie

call

and

payments

weekly

Turks

successive

money

and

this

waiting two months

tUl, after

with no tidings from the Admiral, we began to fear

he had forgotten us altogether.
to delay paying the

men

It

was impossible

the long arrears

now due

to

them, and at the same time I did not care to awaken

amount of money I had in my

hut.
In this emergency I took my old trusty friend
Mehemet Chiaoux into my confidence, and disclosing
speculations as to the

him the fiction we had been carrying on so long,

sent him over to Budrum with instructions to ne-

to

gotiate there

an imaginary

bill

of

exchange, the

proceeds of which he was forthwith to bring back

to me, taking care to let everybody

know, on

his

return to Cnidus, that in consequence of the nonarrival of the

Budrum

to get

ship of war, he

money

to

had been sent to

my workmen.

pay

The

My trusty

messen-

ger made haste on his way, and returning

in three

stratagem succeeded admirably.

days, presented himself to

me

in presence of all

workmen, ostentatiously brandishing before

my

their

eager eyes a well-filled canvas bag, at the sight of

up a shout of joy, little suspecting

contained, not money, but lemons !

which they
that

it

set

Since our diggings have ceased and our packing

has been completed, I have employed a few days in

259

IN TUE LEVANT.

exploring

Cnidus

perdnstila at the extremity of whicli

tlie

In these excursions I have

situated.

is

Our first object

Way, which,

been accompanied by Lieut. Smith.

was

to follow the traces of the ancient

as I have ah'eady mentioned {ante, p. 251), passes

this,

the Eastern Necropolis of Cnidus, in the direc-

tion

of the

The modern road to that

miles.
line

of Yasikoi,

village

Way

of the

distant about six

villao-e

follows the

veiy closely, being marked by a

These

succession of remains of tombs on each side.

ruins are

square or circular basements, which

all

have probably been surmounted by pp-amidal struclike that

tm'es,

One

of the Lion tomb.

of these

basements, distant about half an hour fi-om Yasikoi,

and 72

is circular,

feet in

diameter.

broken open from the top.

Yasikoi,

we

It

has been

As we approached

skirted on our right

a small stream,

along the right bank of which was a long line of

Hellenic

beautifully

wall,

masonry and evidently

fitted

built

to

with

from the violent action of the stream.

beyond

right
steep

hill,

of

a mediteval

Kalessi, consisting of

This

hill

commands

Yasikoi

On

our

called

castle,

Assar

rough walls buUt with mortar.

a fine sea-'sdew towards Rhodes,

and was therefore probably

From

bank

embankment was an isolated

which we found on the summit

this

on scaling

the remains

polygonal

protect the

we went

Chesmakoi, situated a

fortified

in

antiquity.

to an adjacent village called

little

to the south-east of

it.

In

a plain three-quarters of an hour to the east of Ches-

makoi,

we

fell

in

with an ancient road running east

and west, which we

identified as the
s

Way

which

Ave

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

260

had traced from Cnidus

we came

piece of road,

by

bridge, formed

Following

to Yasikoi.

to tlie remains of

tliis

an ancient

liorizontal courses of stone ap-

proaching each other gradually, and converging at

the apex into an acute angle, instead of a

The roadway over

near arch.
wide.

It

moderate

size,

24

this bridge is

and the masonry

certainly Hellenic.

is

This bridge has evidently been protected by a

tress

for-

on a rocky eminence about a mile to the south,

called

Koumya

and which overlooks the sea

Kalessi,

The massive

towards Rhodes and Syme.

this fortress

On

feet

blocks of blue limestone of

built of

is

ciirvili-

stand

still

the south side

is

the masonry

is

walls of

polygonal.

a very perfect gateway, and

inside the fortress several buildings of the Byzantine

To

period.

the south a

fertile valley stretches

down

and almond

trees.

to the sea, planted with vallonea

At the

foot of a range of hills

this valley is part

tomb, and below

the late
angles.

it

on the east

side of

of the concrete basement of a

a broken marble sarcophagus of

Roman period, with grotesque masks at the

On the shore are some Byzantine ruins

marked

in

Admiralty

the

Eastward

Chart.

of

Chesmakoi, on the road from Cnidus to Datscha,

and

and

at the distance of four hours

the latter place,

is

a raAone called

we found an isolated mass

bably about 200 tons.

it

Galli.

from

Here

of limestone weighing pro-

A portion

rock, about five feet square,

and on

Dum

a half

is

of the face of this

wrought nearly smooth,

in letters nine inches

long

word HPI2IOY, above which a rude

is

inscribed the

circle is incised.

This inscription probably extended further to the

261

IN THE LEVANT.
left,

where

of the fl

rock

tlie

its

is

may

date

From

broken away.

the form

not be hiter than the reign of

Alexander the Great.

Bast of

Dum

Galli I did not explore the peninsula,

but Smith has paid several

residence of the Aga.

Near

to Datscha, the

visits

this village the valleys

are fertile and well-cultivated, pi'oducing good crops

of

figs, olives,

of Datscha

is

and vaUonea.

In a bay to the south

a good harbour for

Datscha Scala, and on the shore a

of this harbour

is

an ancient sea-wall

isodomous blocks, and

still

which probably mai'ks the

Between

thos.

caiques,
little

this point

built of large

about 12 feet high,

site of the

ancient Acan-

and Marmarice

is

tainous neck of land which has been visited

officers of

so little

called

to the east

mounby the

our Hydrograj^hical Survey, but which

known

that I hope

some future

is

traveller

will explore it carefuUy.

The scenery between Datscha and Cnidus

varied and picturesque.

On

is

very

the north a high ridge

of mountains running east and west throus^h the

peninsula descends in sheer precipices

Gidf of

Cos,

sloping less

down

to the

abruptly towards the

southern coast, on approaching which the ravines

expand into

fertile valleys.

In the wild mountain

range which overlooks the Gulf of Cos, the leopard

to be

met

makes a descent

into

or Caplan, as the Turks call him,

with, and from time to time

the valleys to carry off a sheep.

given

me

beasts,

is

still

Mehemet

Ali has

the skin of a fine specimen of one of these

which has been

lately

caught in a trap.

In

the fertile valleys which occm* at intervals on the

262

TRAVELS AXD DISCOYEEIES

southern

and

flourish,

which

coast,

is

the

fig,

almond, and ohve trees

in particular districts the vallonea oak,

the principal article of export fi'om the

In antiquity the Cnidian territoiy was

peninsula.

celebrated for the excellence of

most of the owners of the

vine
is

soil

its

sparse, the peasants, cut

but as

are Mussulmans, the

The population

no longer cultivated here.

is

wines

ofi"

from the

ci\alizing

commerce and navigation, are mere

boors, very different from the active and intelligent population of Budrum. It is said that many
of my present workmen had never possessed money
till I employed them at Cape Crio
and that out of
influence of

fifty

inhabitants of this peninsula

me

to

whom

I took

"v\-ith

many had never

peninsula, Mehemet Ali

Branchidfe last autumn,

before quitted their native

having contrived to keep them there hke

serfs,

on

the pretext of their perpetual liability to be drawn

as conscripts, but in reality to prevent their emi-

grating in quest of higher wages than he chooses to

In these rambles through the Doric penin-

give.
sula,

my

old

Budrum

ally

Mehemet Chiaoux has

been our chosen companion, beguiling the way with

many

a quaint sententious remark or curious anecIt is only after long study of the

dote.

mind that an European begins

much

to

Turkish

discover

of poetry and tenderness of feeling

lies

how
hid

under that mask of stohd apathy which the Oriental

puts on
Giaour.

when first brought into contact with the

The more intelligent of the Turkish pea-

seants are remarkable for their genuine unaffected

love of nature

and

interest in created things.

If

IN

you ask a

name

peasant the

Tui-kisli

bird, lie does not

263

THE LEVANT.

answer you

witli a

shrug of the shoulders as a Greek

he

will

immediately begin to

tell

is

you

of a

^vild

contemptuous
apt to do, but
all

curious facts about the habits of the bird

manner of
and some-

times these elements of natural history are inter-

mixed with strange scraps of old legend, which have

been handed down, like many Turkish customs, from
the time of the Greeks.

The other day we heard a bird uttering a

tive note, to

When

which another bird responded.

Mehemet Chiaoux heard

this note,

plain-

he told us with

simple earnestness, that once upon a time a brother

and

sister

the

strayed,

of them,

The sheep

tended their flocks together.

till

shepherdess

wandered on

at last, exhausted

in search

by fatigue and sorrow,

she and her brother were changed into a pair of

birds,

who go repeatmg

the same sad notes.

The

female bird says,"Quzumlari gheurdunmu," " Have

you seen my sheep "
which her mate
" Gheurmedum," " have not seen them."
replies

to

When Mehemet
not

know

in the

Chiaoux told

me

this

that a nearly similar legend

is

myth, I did
to be found

curious Greek novel Daphnis and Chloe, by

Longus.^^

264

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEEIES

LIII.
Malta, June

After nearly three years of rougli

coast

of

Asia Minor,

1859.

18,

life

ou the

myself once more

find

within the pale of European civilization, rejoicing

in the prospect of a few months' leave of absence
in

England before

Consulship at Rome.

Sth

Our

inst.

my new

I proceed to

last

We
few

Cnidus

left

days

post, the

on

the

there were very

About three weeks ago we had a

visit from the Euryalus, on board which H.R.H.
Prince Alfred is now serving as midshipman under
pleasantly spent.

Captain Tarleton.

After staying a day at Cnidus,

the Euryalus went over to Budrum, where I had the

honour of showing the Prince the

soleum,
idea

now

is finer

I took

site

of the

Mau-

a desolate-looking spot, of which the

than the reahty.

my last

farewell of

my

old friend

Chiaoux on the deck of the Euryalus.

Mehemet

Prince Alfred

having expressed a wish to buy some Turkish embroidery,

Mehemet Chiaoux

at

my

request brought

some specimens on board. Ninety -nine inhabitants of

the Levant out of a hundred would have taken advantage of such an occasion to ask an exorbitant price.

Mehemet Chiaoux was content to charge H.R.H. no

more than the real value of such articles. In seven
years of weary sojourning in the Levant, I have

265

IN THE LEVANT.

known no such honest

man

truthful

as this poor

Mussulman.

On

way back

our

at Cos.

called

We

Cnidus,

to

found the Caimacan

Commissioner having been sent

a cloud, a

present of a pair

for that

of silver-mounted pistols

became suddenly

elated.

man from Stamboul," he

"

imder
fi-om

But on the

the Porte to overhaul his conduct.

Prince, he

Euryalus

the

"VVliat

said,

from the
do I care

"now

that I

can show this token of the friendship of an English

Prince

"

Wlien the Euryalus was

at

Tunis the

other day, the Bey, after receiving a visit from Prince

Now that I am the friend of the Queen

sou, may all my enemies burst;" whom

Alfred, said, "

of England's

he intended to include in

this

anathema he did not

say.

Soon

after the

Euryalus

turned from Malta, and

we

welcome task of embarking

I

had just completed

my

left

us, the

Supply

re-

forthwith set about the

all

our cases and stores.

share of this work, and

many months began to feel at

some occupation, when a beautiful English

for the first time for

a loss for

was agreeably surprised to find on board Lord Dufierin and

his mother, and their friend Capt. Hamilton.
They
came from Egy^^t, where Lord Dufferin has lately
excavated a small temple near Thebes, and were
glad to find themselves in a cooler latitude.
They
passed several days with us, during which we wanyacht sailed into our silent harbour.

dered about the picturesque valleys of the peninsula, the

uncouth inhabitants of which were much

surprised at the strange apparition of the Frank

266

TRAVELS AND DISCOVEKIES

lady on horseback, wliom tliey persisted in regarding

as

Lord DufFerin's

wife.

we had

sant days

On

a farewell picnic on the broad

encampment, and the

terrace which overlooks our

next morning

the last of these plea-

daybreak

at

yacht

the

and

the

Lord Duflferin
went northwards to Patmos and Samos, and we to
Rhodes. My object in going there on my way to
Supply got imder weigh together.

Malta was to examine a number of most curious

recently

antiquities

and Salzmann,
which

in

discovered by Messrs. Biliotti

necropolis

near

Kalavarda,

have already noticed in a previous

(See ante,

I.

p.

letter.

Li the course of the last

236.)

three months those two gentlemen have succeeded

in the

discovery of a most interesting

tombs,

which

period

of

evidently belong

Greek

civilization

in

have found quantities of painted

to

series

of

a very early

Rhodes.
fictile

They

vases with

birds and grotesque animals and flowers, on a drab

ground, small figures and vases of porcelain, some of

which are inscribed with hieroglyphics resembhng

those found in Egypt

small bottles of variegated

and earrings and other jewels of gold and

electrum, ornamented with figures and flowers emglass,

bossed and in

filagree.

Some

of the objects

may be

of true Egyptian fabric, but the greater part are

probably imitations, the hieroglyphics being evidently

copied by persons ignorant of their true meaning,
just as Chinese characters are copied on porcelain of

European

fabric.

Amongst

the gold ornaments are

a pair of earrings, having as pendants winged buEs,

THE LEVANT.

IX

resembling
It is

267

found by Mr. Laj^ard in Assyria.

tliose

probable that

many

of tliese antiquities were

imported into Rhodes by the Phoenicians, who, according to Hellenic tradition, iiad already settlements
in

Rhodes when the Greeks

selves there,
fabric,

first

established them-

and who, trading in objects of Egyptian

probably increased

their profits

facturing imitations of these articles.

pohs from which

been obtained

is

these interesting remains

of great extent, and in

bourhood we must look

one of the three ancient

Homer
tion

by manuThe necro-

for

the

cities

site

its

have

neigh-

of Kamiros,

of Rhodes which

mentions, and of which the political extinc-

was brought about by the founding of the

metropolis, B.C. 408.

had the

satisfaction of securing this collection

of antiquities for the British

terms.

Museum, on reasonable

Messrs. Biliotti and Salzmann are so encou-

raged by

tliis

first

success that they

now

j^ropose

carrying on their enterprise on a larger scale.

them as a legacy one of our Cnidus

revolver, and the remainder of our stock of
and preserved meats. As we had no time
left

the

newly-purchased

antiquities

before

huts, a

pale ale
to

pack

we

left

Rhodes, this had to be done during our voyage to

Malta.

Luckily the weather was so fine that

were able to work uninterruptedly

the

quarter-deck until

we entered

at this task

we
on

the harbour at

Malta.

As we came

to

an anchor and I heard the welcome

voice of Admiral Codrington hailing us from his

268

TRAVELS AND PISCOVEEIES.

barge alongside,

tlie

into the last case,

eighty-fourth which

commencement
was ended.

carpenter drove the last nail

making the three hundred and

I

have sent home since the

of the expedition, and

my

long task

NOTES.
may

This group of villages

'

district of Hiera.

See ante,

be compared with that iu the

{See post, note 11.)

vol.

i.

p. 31,

aud the passage in Lucian, cited note 81,

ibid.
'

Bockli, C.

I.

No. 8729.

It appears from this inscription that

the bridge was built by the monastery of St. Michael, A.D. 1145.
*

On

Archfeologia of Soc. Ant. London, xxxi.

C.

the Ai-temis of Thei-ma?, see Bockh, C.

Stephanas Byzautius,

I.

See ante,

See ante, note 96,

'

Etym. Mag.
trans.,

p.

i.

Etym. Mag.

Bpiira'wc.

Bcickh,

M. Boutau

vol.

i.

Panofka, Griechinnen luid Griechen

v. Aluina.

p. 9.

V. 31, 39.

Memoir on Mytilene, Archives

in his

Paris,

Scientifiques,

villages

213.

London, 1849,

" PUn. N.H.

^^

No. 2172.

502.

No. 2042.

''

Eng.

Bplira.

I.

p.

which the

185G,

disti'ict

v.

p.

298,

des Missions

remarks, that the se\eu

of Hiera contains, are

all

governed by

one Turkish Aga, and that this arrangement has jirobably been
lianded down since these villages formed one ancient community.

The same observation

Calloni.

" The

applies to

See ante, note

calves'

the group

of

villages

called

of this volume.

heads on this coin of Eresus also occur on the

silver coins of Ajitissa in Lesbos.

" Aristoph.

Equit. 313.

" For two other specimens of the dodekadrachm, see Vaux,

Numismatic Chronicle, London, 18G4, new series, voL i. p. 104,
pi. 6, tig. 1

for the

octodrachm of Geta, see MUlingen, Sylloge of

Ancient unedited Coins,

^^

p.

3-5, jil.

I.

1.5,

16.

Dethier und JMonltmann. Epigraphik von Cunstantinopolis, in

the Denkschrift.

d.

Philos. Hist, classo d. k.

Akad.

d.

Wissensch.

270

NOTES.

Wien, 1864,

p.

330.

Frick, in Jalirbiiclier fur

logie, Leipsig, 18.59,

iii.

Supp. Bd. Heft

^^

Detliier, Epigraphik, p. 5.

''

Detliier, p. 32.

^8

Detliier, pi. 2.

"

Frick.

(See

my

See

See

'"

Detliier, p. 5.

' Procop. De Bello

Philo-

2 of the same work.

pi.

note 15.)

a7ite,

Histoiy of Discoveries,

^''

C!ii.ssisclie

554.

4, p.

Gotli.

ii.

673.

p.

Alexandr.

Chi'ouic.

15.

i.

&c.,

Roder.

ed.

161.5, p. 664.
''^

Ross, Hellenika, Halle,

iiber die

1846,

Karte von Kleiuasien,

" Marked Warbut-koi

Map.

in Kiepert's

Osten, Denkwiirdigkeiten aus

dem

Orient,

'^

See Prokesch von Osten, DenkwUrd.

^^

In

my

Kiepert,

67.

jx

i.

Memoir

p. 77.

Histoiy of Discoveries,

See Prokescli vou

iii.

iii.

444.

p.

ifec, ii.

444.

p.

558, the width

p.

is

This dimension gives the width as

stated to be 59 feet 5 inches.

measured from the edge of the upper torus of the bases of the
columns on each
text

is

The dimension 59

side.

measured from the edge of the

10| inches

feet

jilinth of

in the

the same bases.

^ See my History of Discoveries, &c., ii. pp. 566-7.

^ The ruins at Lagina were visited by L. Ross in 1844.
his Kleinasien u. Deutschland, pp. 91
^*

Museum

="

Biickh, C.

Marbles, x.

Steph. Byz.

'"'^

See

my

s.v.

See

Anyii'a.

Histoiy of Discoveries,

Ibid. p. 337, note

''

Ibid. p. 694,

No.

4, pi. 86.

Ibid. p. 694,

No.

5, pi. 86.

^
^

fig.

Engi-aved,

1.

Nos. 2693, 2715.

I.

^'

41,

pi.

See

and 104.

Compare an

'*

Ross, Reisen,

of Classical Antiquities,

Bockh, C.

inscription,
iv.

609, note J.

ifec, ii. p.

c.

Museum

^'

ibid, s.i: 'Ecari'/a-ia.

pp. 30

I.

i.

p.

186.

No. 8889.

41.

In Mr. Fergusson's Mausoleum of Halicarnassus restored, he

remarks, p. 27, that, in my letter of A];iril 3, 1857 (Papers respecting
''

Excavations at Budrum,

p. 11), I give this

that Lieut. Smith in his letter

that in the text of

my

ment I took from

history

Lieut.

(ibid. p.

it is

108

be correct.

feet.

it

This

107
last

feet,

and

measure-

Smith's plan, which was completed

subsequently to both the letters referred

likely to

dimension as 110 feet;

20) calls

With

to,

and

is

therefore

more

regard to the discrepancy in the

271

NOTES.
previous measurements, I would

when

easily accounted for,

that

obsers'e

such errors are

considered that the ground was

is

it

only explored by small instalments as

we

it, and that

was probably taken with
the tape across garden-walls and various obstructions, whereas the

the measurement

first

measurement, 108

final

could obtaiu

given, viz. 110 feet,

feet,

was taken with the chain along a

clear line.

" In
127

my

History of Discoveries this dimension

not 12G

feet,

feet.

Budrum, p. 11),
measurement is given.

tions at
latter

been printed,

and

In
and

my

20

this distance

on the original plan,

quadrangle measures 127, and

Mr. Fergvisson,

feet.

Excava-

Since the text of the present work has

find that the north side of the

the south

stated to be

in Lieut. Smith's letter (ibid. p. 20), the

have remeasui'ed

is

letter (Papers res])ecting

p. 24,

thinks

it

ought to be

127 feet 6| inches exactly; but if he had seen tlie rough way in
which the rock wa.s cut, he would not, I think, have attached
so

much importance
1128,

pp.

^ Herod,
**
ii.

pll.
ii.

121.

Memoir

In plate

"^

Pausan.

^^

See

^'

Brunn,

9 the hair

History of Discoveries,

to.,

my

is

restored

bj' tlio

evidence of this fragment.

Infer. Dialog, xxiv.

x.

1.5.

History of Discoveries,
Geschichte

der

<tc., ii. p. 24:9.

bildendun

Kunstler,

i.

p.

283,

ha\e followed Mr. Pullan in this measurement, which

taken from the back of the

on the

front,

makes

Fergusson, the

1862,

.steps.

their height

Mausoleum

1 1 1

Lieut.

is

Smith measuring them

inches.

of Halicarnassus restored, London,

p. 28.

" See
^^

my

.377.

p.

'"

in

6G7.

* Lucian,

pt. 1,

117.

See Mr. Birch's

p.
**

ii.

to this dimension.

Ionian Antiquities, published by Dilettanti Society,

^'

ante,

i.

p.

333.

Mr. Westmacott, in the passage refeiTed

may have mistaken mere

stains in the

to,

suggests that I

marble for pigments, and

it strange that coloui's which were so clearly visible

Budrum, should be no longer visible when he examined the
Mausoleum sculptures after their arrival in England. I therefore

seems to think
at

here print three letters on this subject, written by gentlemen \\ho

have been specially trained

to the study of ancient art,

and who

272

NOTES.

are therefore not likely to have mistaken the evidence of their

senses.

No.

1,

from G. F. Watts, Esq.

Little Holland

House, Jan.

8,

1865.

tints visible

There is no doubt in my mind that the

on the drapery of some of the fragments of sculpture

when

exhumed

My

dear Newton,

first

Halicarnassus are to be

at

artistic application of colour

on many of the

attributed to

certainly the blue and red so distinct

slabs of the frieze,

and the red in the mouth of the

Mr. AVest-

lion, could not possibly be regarded as accidental stains.

macott cannot understand that colour, which had been preserved for
two thousand years, should have entirely disappeared in the few

months occupied in the transmission of the sculptures from AsiaMinor to England but I can state from positive experience that
colom- on some of the fragments, which, when the sculpture was
;

first

taken out of the gi'ound, was as perfect as if painted but a

entii-ely disajjpeared in the coirrse of two or three

few weeks,

Yours most

hoirrs.

sincerely,

G. F.

No.

2,

from Dr.

S.

Antiquities, British

Birch, Keeper
Museum.

of the Egyptian

British

My
clearest

dear Newton,

In

WATTS.

Museum,

and Oriental

Jan. 25, 1865.

reply to your inquiries, I have the

of colour

recollection of the presence

on the Bud ram

I particularly recollect a faint and delicate red coloiu-

marbles.

inside the mouth,

and on the tongue of one of the

lions.

Believe me, youre traly,

S.

No.

3,

]\Iedal.s,

from

W.

British

S.

W. Vaux,

Esq.,

Keeper of the Corns and

Museum.
British

My

BIRCH.

Museum, Nov.

4,

1864.

dear Newton, In reply to your query, I beg leave to

was present when nearly all your antiquities fi-om

state that I

HaUcarnassus were impacked in 1857 and 1858, and that I dis1. The tongue of one of
tinctly remember observing colour on

the

lions,

another

which was

lion,

red.

2.

On

(I tliiuk) part of the

which was reddish-brown, or tawny.

the drapery of the large mutilated seated figure (Zeus

of a purple hue.

3.
?),

thigh of

On

folds of

which was

I believe there were other instances, which, like

273

NOTES.
these, are

now

wlien

an-ived in this country I can swear.

lliey

That the

almrist wholly lost.

Ever

Mr. Westmacott further remarks that

their

fii'st

me on

discoveiy should be

S.

W. VAUX.

not a

it is

while that on

visible,

still

This

fig.

8,

when

was

it

my

History

of

dLsinterred.

fii-st

the

is

an

happens, one of the most perfect

for, as it

specimens of blue colour wa,s to be seen on the

stone engraved in

singular

little

the architectiiral marbles on

sculjitures should have so comjiletely disappeared.

unfortunate arjfument,

visible

sincerel}- yovirs,

W.

that the colour observed by

were

aljove

soffit

Discoveries,

Not a

remains on this marble, and nearly on

all

of the lacunar

&c.

xx\Ti.

pi.

now

vestige of colour

the larger architectural

marbles the colour once visible has equally disappeared.

It

is

true that on

pigments

may

still

some of the small mouldings blue and red

be seen

but these have been preserved only

because they have been protected from the atmosphere by being

kept in a glass case since their arrival at the Museum, instead of

being openly exhibited, as the sculptures have been.

By

the aid of a solution of wax, alcohol, and turpentine, I have

succeeded in partially preserving the colours on some of the

Time

sculptures from Gyrene.

will

show whether

this pi-eparatiou

London atmosphere. I
pointing out another error in the same

will continue to resist the influence of the

take this opportunity of

work
I

of Professor Westmacott, for which, as

He

appear to be responsible.

it

stands in his text,

states, p. 10-i,

that the

of the sculjitor Terpsikles occurs on one of the seated

my

from Branchidas, citing

name

figures

History of Discoveries, &c., as his

authority, but ^\ithout giving the page.

Had

he referred to the

work which he thus loosely quotes, he would have seen that the
name Terpsikles does not occur on one of the seated figures, but
on a stone, of which
of a
ii.

p.
^'

"
"'

work

538 and
See

all

that can be affirmed

of art of some kind.

my

p.

See

52 and

Boss, Reisen,

p.

II.

that

it

is

the base

iv. p.

ii.

p. 5-5.

271.
37, places the fountain Salmacis a

little

konak of Salik Bey. (See his plan of Biulrum,

Admitting that a fountain exists there, though I

to the west of the

VOL.

is

History of Discoveries,

782.

History of Discoveiies, &c.

Ibid, ii p.

ibid. p. 39.)

my

274

NOTES.

certainly failed to discover

horn of the
^^

city to

Histoiy of Discoveries,
Ibid.

i.

"s

Ibid.

ii.

p.

''

Ibid.

ii.

pp. 785-6.

Ibid. pp. 550-1.

ii.

11 and pp. 675-6.

p.

73.

pi.

784.

" Ibid. pp. 547-8.

d.

obviously too far from the right

it, it is

be the fountain meant by Vitruvius.

Cf A.

KircKhoff, Studien

Griech. Alphabets, in the Abhandl.

zu Berlin, 18G3,

p.

d. k.

mr

Akad.

d.

Geschichte

Wisseusch.

133.

" See ray History of Discoveries, ii. p. 775.

'
K. H. Brunn, Geschichte d. Griech. Kiinstler, ii. p. 383.
" Strabo, xiv. p. 634. K. F. Hermann, Lehrbuch d. Gottes d.
So in the monasteries of Zambika and
Alterthiimer, 19, 18.
Kremastb, in Rhodes, lodgings are pro^-ided for those who attend
the panec/yris.

(See mite,

i.

p. 184.)

'*

Antiquities of Ionia, pt.

'^

See

<"

Ibid.

ii.

Ibid.

i.

pll.

"'

Ibid.

i.

pi. 56.

'"

Pausanias,

'^

History of Discoveries,

"
"

my

Ibid.

i.

Ibid.

ii.

iii pll. 22-3.

History of Discoveries,

i.

pi. 57.

719-45.

pi.

59-60.

ii.

35, 4.

84,

pi.

i.

84, figg. 2, 4,

ii.

p.

fig. 5.

714.

pp. 414-26.

Ann. iv. 55.

" Pliny, N.H. xxxvu. 5,
'*

Tacitu.s,

'^

History of Discoveries, iL

'''

Casts of the head and hind-quarter of this lion are

British

17.
p.

487.

See my Hist, of Discoveries, &c. iL p. 781.

" Antiquities of Ionia, published by Dilett. Soc.
^ See my Hist, of Discoveries, ii. p. 766.
Ibid.
2

now

in the

Museum.

p.

745.

Ibid. p. 749.

'

Ibid. p. 771.

>

Ibid.

'

Ibid. pi. 72.

i.

Ibid.

i.

'

Ibid.

ii.

54 and

pll.

pi. 68.

p.

757.

72.

iii.

p. 22.

275

NOTES.

^ See
='

my

Hist, of Discoveries,

Ibid.

'"

Juvenal, vi 501.

See
^

765.

Ibid. p. 771.

"'

p.

ii.

i.

my

Ibid.

ii.

pi. 70.

Hist, of Discoveries,

i.

pll.

09-71.

pp. 758-G5.

Ibid. pp. 354, 360.

'=

Ibid. p. 747.

'

Ibid. p.

" Dennis,

my

756 and 768.

Cities of Etruria, L p. 85.

''

See

Longiis, Pastoral,

Hist, of Discoveries,
i.

ii.

p.

769.

13.

THE END.

cox AnD WTMAlf, FBIKIEBS, GBBAT QUEBH 8TBBB1, LONDON, W.C.

-C^-?

^is

Z44G

THEGETrcCEN'lES
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