Aim with shoulder: align

target
Miss right: move feet to
Miss left: move feet to the

Bowli
ng
Made
Fun

your right should at your

the right
left

Breakpoint Zones
Real estate zoned for strikes

In my last article for BTM, Breakpoints and Target Lines, I covered the importance of having a well defined
target line. The article explained how to define the target line by using two distinct points: one point at the
breakpoint and one point located in the heads, usually near the arrows. To play the target line, I instructed
simply drawing an imaginary line from the breakpoint back through the point you chose in the heads and
bowling down that line.
The article also explained that I divide the lane into three breakpoint zones. Zone #1 consists of boards 1-5,
Zone #2 consists of boards 6-9 and Zone #3 consists of boards 10-14. The object is to throw the ball into the
breakpoint zone that will produce the most strikes.
In this article I want to give you some basic guidelines on when to use each breakpoint zone. Choosing and
using the right breakpoint zone is one of the most important top techniques that I could ever share with you.
The sport of bowling at the highest levels of competition has become very complicated due to modern lane oil,
high-tech bowling balls, and lane surfaces. The battle on Tour each week is one of wits, not physical ability as
some people may think. The majority of the players on the PBA exempt list have physical games that are good
enough to make TV each week, but we tend to see about 10 players over and over again, with one of the lower
ranked players making it now and then.
The top 10 players are winning the battle of wits and not the battle of the physical game. I have seen a lot of
players at the professional level making adjustments or changing balls thinking that the lanes have changed and
that they are simply spraying the ball outside of their usable breakpoint zone. Many times on flatter oil patterns,
you only have two boards at the breakpoint, so if you miss by three or four boards, you dont strike. Unless a
bowler is really paying attention, he or she will never even notice a three board miss. The breakpoint zones I am
defining below may be four or five boards wide, but that does not always mean you get to use all the boards. As
I stated above, on some lane conditions there may be only two boards worth of area at the breakpoint and on
other conditions you may have seven.
Defining the zones
I will now take a close look at each breakpoint zone, point out when to use them, and a few differences between
them. All three breakpoint zones are made of the same material as the rest of the lane, but they are quite unique
in the way your ball reacts to them. Each breakpoint zone has a sweet board that you should aim for and I will
identify each one below. In some cases, the sweet board will simply produce the most strikes; in other cases
the sweet board is more for aiming purposes.
PHOTO #1

Zone #1: Boards 1-5

Oil patterns 38 feet or less
The sweet board in zone #1 is the one-board; we dont usually have to actually hit the one-board, just come
close. I have found that aiming at the one-board will make most bowlers more successful at hitting breakpoint
zone #1. If bowlers aim more inward than the one-board, they are more likely to miss the target zone to the
inside. Zone #1 requires a lot of skill to hit consistently, especially from deep inside, so it must be practiced a lot
during each practice session. If you dont practice hitting zone #1 you will never have the skill or guts to use it
when there is fame or fortune on the line.
This zone is very different from the other two zones for three reasons. First, it is right next to the gutter and that
makes a lot of people very nervous. After all, if you actually did throw the ball in the gutter, it would be the end
of the universe as we know it. Honestly gang, if you play breakpoint zone #1, you will throw the ball in the
gutter now and then. Just get over it; the rewards you gain by mastering play of zone #1 far outweigh the
occasional gutter ball.

Second, you must learn to hit breakpoint zone #1 at different lengths down the lane. This is represented
graphically in photo 1; notice how long zone #1 is compared to the other two zones. As a general rule, the
shorter the oil pattern, the closer you want to move your breakpoint to the foul line. If the oil pattern is 38 feet,
you want the ball to hit the one-board at 39 or 40 feet. If the oil pattern is 35 feet, then you want the ball to hit
the one-board around 37 feet down the lane. The reason we pull the breakpoint back toward the foul line as the
oil pattern gets shorter is because we need the extra feet of dry backend to use up some of the balls energy so it
will not overhook.
Third, the first board rarely gets oiled by modern oiling machines, so it can act as a little bumper to keep you
from throwing the afore mentioned universe altering gutter ball. Dont be afraid to literally throw the ball at
the gutter when you see that you have a lot of friction there. It is pretty common to see bowlers throw the ball
into breakpoint zone #1, using a target line nearly parallel to the gutter, but many times it would be better to
throw the ball at the gutter from a slightly deeper target in the heads.
In Photo #2 I have set up a sample shot where a ball crosses the 13-board at the arrows and goes straight to the
one-board at a pretty steep angle. The ball reaches the one-board at about 38 feet then goes dead straight
(parallel to the gutter) for a foot or two before turning toward the pocket. That section where the ball travels
parallel to the gutter is where a war of forces is taking place. The laws of inertia say the ball should continue in
a straight line into the gutter, but the axis rotational energy combined with friction with the lane says the ball
should turn left. All the battling forces fight to a dead even draw until the friction and rotational forces win over
and the ball starts to turn left.
PHOTO #2

When there is a lot of friction on the gutter, throwing the ball there at a steep angle accomplishes three things:
1. The ball uses up a lot of axis rotational energy. That is a fancy way of saying the ball uses up a
lot of its energy making the transition from heading toward the gutter to heading toward the
pocket. This keeps the ball from overhooking and since the ball is coming at the pocket from
such a wide angle, the carry percentage is usually excellent, even if the ball has used up a little
too much energy.
2. Creates area that was not a gift from the lane man. Since you are throwing the ball away from
the pocket, a shot that misses a little inside can still strike. If you were throwing the ball more
parallel to the gutter, a miss to the inside is much more likely to cause the ball to go high. This is
because of the battle of forces I mentioned above. Since there is little or no inertia trying to take
the ball into the gutter, the forces of axis rotation and friction win the battle easily which means
the ball will easily hook too much and go high.
3. Creates area (room for error) due to the burn rate of the ball. A miss to the inside that would
usually go through the nose and cause a split, will turn into a high pocket strike because the ball
has burned up most of its axis rotational energy before it reaches the head pin and stops hooking.

You will occasionally find the one-board too slick to bounce off of, even though it never gets oiled. Balls do
transfer oil to the one-board between oiling/stripping sessions, so if the lane machine is not stripping the oneboard properly, there will be enough oil residue left on the board to cause your ball to slip off into the gutter. If
there is no friction on the one-board then you cant throw at it from a steep angle.
Photo #2 also shows how the target line moves in (white lines) as the heads dry, but the breakpoint stays the
same. Keep in mind that as the target line moves in, the bowler must be able to produce the rev rate needed to
bring the ball back; you must stay within your ability. The same inward movement of the target line holds true
for the other two breakpoint zones as well. Unless so much oil is depleted that you are forced to move the
breakpoint in, you will keep the same breakpoint and just move your target in the heads.
Zone #2: Boards 6-9
Zone #2 is the most used zone of the three; so much so that most bowlers use it without even knowing it. Zone
#2 produces the most strikes on a lot of league shots and requires the least amount of skill to hit. Zone #2 is
usually used when the oil pattern is between 38 and 41 feet, which covers the vast majority of oil patterns used
in every form of competition. The sweet board in zone #2 is the seven-board; it is not only the board we aim
at, but the one that seems to produce the most strikes. Unlike zone #1, we dont usually need to worry about
how far down the lane we place our breakpoint target. The amount of friction on the lane will determine how far
down the ball goes, so just target around 40 feet down the lane.
The biggest mistake bowlers make when playing zone #2 is not watching close enough to notice when the ball
slips into zone #3 territory, especially on house shots where there is a lot of oil in the middle of the lane. If
boards seven through nine are striking for you and you suddenly hit boards 10 or 11, you will start leaving
corner pins. I covered this in detail in the Breakpoints and Target Lines article so I will not rehash it here.
Zone #3: Boards 10-14
Zone #3 is the least used of the three breakpoint zones, but nonetheless important when the lane condition calls
for it. Zone #3 is generally used on longer oil patterns of 42 to 50 feet. Long oil patterns are in my opinion the
hardest to play, so thank goodness we dont see them too often. Zone #3 places the breakpoint closest to the
head pin which is the reason it is used on the longer oil patterns. If the oil man laid down a pattern 43 feet long,
the ball is not likely to start gripping the lane until at least 45 feet. That only leaves 15 feet of real estate for the
ball to make its turn over to the pocket. If the ball starts that journey from breakpoint zone #1 or #2, it will ether
make it to the pocket late, come in behind the head pin, or miss the pocket altogether.
There are a few other times when breakpoint zone #3 should be used even if the oil pattern is not longer than 41
feet:
Dry outside league shot. Sometimes by the second game, league shots have so little oil outside of the
10-board that the ball begins to read the lane long before it can make it to the seven-board in zone #2.
This is one of the few times you actually want to change breakpoint zones. If in game one breakpoint
zone #2 was working just fine but by the middle of game two the ball began to read the lane really early,
then you will need to move to breakpoint zone #3. You will have to move your target in the heads
accordingly of course.
Reverse block. True reverse blocks, where there is less oil in the middle of the lane than there is from
the ten-board to the gutter, are fortunately very rare. If the outside is flooded, then you will be forced
inside at the breakpoint to zone #3. A ball that journeys into zone #2 in this case will just skid away.
Flat oil like the US Open. If the lanes are oiled dead flat from gutter to gutter, every tiny mistake you
make will show up. Believe me, to bowl well on flat oil, you have to be good period. If you are good,
and you want to minimize the penalties you get from small mistakes, try playing breakpoint zone #3.
Since zone #3 is the closest to the head pin, the ball travels less distance from the breakpoint to the
pocket, giving the ball less time to go off-course once it starts hooking. Remember: unless the oil is

pretty thin, balls skid from the release point to the breakpoint and skidding balls go dead straight;
nothing is more predictable than dead straight.
PBA Player of the Year Tommy Jones won the 2006 US Open playing just this way. Tommys ball hit board 11
at the breakpoint just about every time he threw it. This was the case whether he was standing in front of the
ball return taking three steps on the right lane or standing at the back of the approach taking five steps on the
left lane. As the heads dried, Tommy kept moving his target line left but still nailed the same breakpoint board.
All the other bowlers that made the TV show, with the exception of Ryan Shafer, sprayed the ball more at the
breakpoint.
Zone #3 has a less defined sweet board than the other two breakpoint zones. Sometimes the sweet board is
number 12, but many times I have seen board 10 work best. When the 10-board is working best, then breakpoint
zone #3 will share board nine with zone #2. This means that you may be able to hit board nine at the breakpoint
and still strike, but when the sweet board is 12, the nine board may not strike.
Believe your eyes not the oil chart
Although I am referring to the length of oil patterns, the important thing is how far the ball skids before it starts
to grip the lane. If the oil pattern is 38 feet long but with a very heavy volume of oil down the lane, the ball may
actually skid farther than a 41 foot pattern with less volume. You must pay attention to how far down the lane
the ball finds friction even if the oiling chart is posted; believe your eyes more than the chart. Keep in mind that
this game plan is just a guideline to get you started. The old saying that there is an exception to every rule is
definitely true in bowling. There must be a million variables to consider, but you have to start somewhere.

Regular Doubles: each player of the team bowls, and the team's scores
are combined.
Scotch Doubles: one teammate throw the first ball of all 10 frames, while
the other player throws the second ball each time. This format plays to the
strengths of a team that has one bowler who throws plenty of strikes, or a
player who is adept at converting spares. The drawback is that, if the first
player gets hot and puts together a string of strikes, the second player could
go several frames without throwing a shot. Not only is this unfair, but it can
also lead to the second player getting rusty due to inactivity. For this reason,
teams usually favor switching positions from game to game.
Alternate ball Doubles: first player takes the first shot, the second player
goes next, and the game continues in this pattern for all 10 frames. If the
first player gets a strike, the second player begins the next frame.
Experienced bowlers should be paired with novices, which will add to the
fun when one player rolls a strike or spare because her teammate must then
try to keep up the momentum.
Alternate frame Doubles: one player bowling the odd-numbered frames
(1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th) and the second player playing the even-numbered
frames (2nd, 4th, 6th, 8th, 10th). These variations give both players close to
equal representation in the game.

Predict Your Roll: Pretend you're the Babe Ruth of bowling and call your
roll before you make it. You can predict whether you will knock down an
even or odd number of pins with your roll, or even predict a strike.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/150166404/OBP
Baseball stats

KNOW your balls:

MUST know what ball is going to do BEFORE you throw it.
Practice: take out 4 balls and have a little bowl off between them. On the
left lane put in the computer the names of the 2 balls and do the same for
the other 2 balls on the right lane. Now bowl 4 games at one time using all 4
different balls. Then whichever 2 balls score the highest, take those 2 balls
and have a roll off between them for the championship. This will teach you
the difference between those 4 balls and how much more or less those balls
will hook in relation to each other. You will have a MUCH better hypothesis
as to what those balls are capable of doing. It will also give you more
confidence when you make the ball switch.
Practice Accuracy:
Strike with your spare ball. Shoot a whole game with JUST your spare ball.
This will tell you how
accurate or inaccurate you
really are. It will also force
you to possess a better
release which will improve
your shots when you go
back to a regular strike
ball. You will also leave
more spares than normal
giving you more spare
practice.

SPAR
E
Practi
ce

Practice Angles:
Bowl an entire game
without moving your feet.
For instance...stand on the
15 board for every single
shot throughout your
game regardless of what
you leave. All of your
spares and all of your
strike shots. Next game do the same thing but do it from the 10 board or the
20 board. This will teach you to look at the lane from different angles.
Striking out on the 10th frame:
Here's a drill you can do with your friends while you are practicing. Grab a
scrap piece of paper and bowl a game against your friend but only the 8th,
9th, and 10th frame. Perfect score here is 90. The idea here is to get used to

closing out the end of a game and getting used to setting up the 10th frame
in the 8th and 9th.
Low-Ball:
Lowest score wins, must hit a pin.
6-10 or 4-7:
Shoot at 6-10 or 4-7 on first ball then pick up your spare.
Arrows/Dots Game:
Like a game of horse. You start with the first arrow. The bowler can start
anywhere on the approach but the ball must cross the target arrow. The
bowler has to throw two strikes in a row with the ball crossing the first arrow.
Then you move on to the second arrow. Two strikes in a row, then move to
the third arrow etc. etc.

The bowler must use the same ball for the drill.

Whenever a bowler fails to strike they should cover the

spare.

To make the game drill "harder" if a bowler opens two frames

in a row, they have to start over at the first arrow.
The game can also be played from the dots. Instead of a target arrow, the
bowler must start with their sliding foot on the first dot. In this version they
can use any target on the lane. After two strikes in a row, they move to the
next dot.

This drill will teach each player how they need to adjust to
play different areas of the lane. They will have to adjust their ball
speed, loft and hand positions.
Shoot the 7 or 10:

On the first ball shoot the 7 or 10 pin. If a single pin is hit then score it as a
strike and next ball is practice for a pocket hit. Else on the second shot, a
very good pocket hit is required for the spare.
Hit The Mark:
2 inches wide by 4 inches long piece of paper out on the lane about 3 feet
out. See how many times, (If any) your bowlers can hit it.
Game Scoring:
Pocket and strike=2 points
Pocket and spare=1 point
Strike or spare out of pocket=0 points
Pocket and miss spare =minus 1 point
Out of pocket and miss spare=minus 2 points
Miss a single pin spare=minus 3 points
Angles Speed Release:
Bowl one game off each arrow using different speed, release, etc. to get the
ball to the pocket.
Establish a target spot:
If one hits the target light, move 2 boards right with feet.
If one hits flush nose, move 2 boards left with feet.
If there is a heavy crossover, move 4 boards left with feet.
If there is a far crossover, move 6 boards left with feet.
SEVEN FRAMES.
Frame 1: 10 pin, shoot it until it is made twice; count how many shots it
took to make it
twice; that is the score for the frame
Frame 2: 6 pin, shoot it until its made twice; count how many shots it
took to make it
twice; that is the score for the frame
Frame 3: 3 pin, shoot it until its made twice; count how many shots it
took to make it
twice; that is the score for the frame
Frame 4: the pocket; Three practice shots are allowed to find the
pocket; when it starts
again, the target is the pocket (a strike is not necessary, just hit the
pocket); shoot it until

it is hit twice; count how many shots it took to hit it twice; that is the
score for the frame
Frame 5: 2 pin; shoot it until it is made twice; count how many shots it
took to make it
twice; that is the score for the frame
Frame 6: 4 pin; shoot it until it is made twice; count how many shots it
took to make it
twice; that is the score for the frame
Frame 7: 7 pin: shoot it until it is made twice; count how many shots it
took to
make it twice; that is the score for the frame
TOTAL your score: A perfect score is 14. Keep a record of the score
and make it a goal to get an average of 14.5-15; (b) Review the
score in each frame; determine which basic type spare gives the
athletes the most trouble and have them practice it.
3-6-9 System Spare Shooting:
System refers to the number of boards that the athlete moves from the
normal strike line to convert a spare. This system assumes the ideal strike
line that is working for the athlete.
LEFT SIDE SPARES: Move feet to the right, keeping target at the
arrows the same.
2 pin: move three boards
4 pin: move six boards
7 pin: move 9 boards
RIGHT SIDE SPARES: First establish the preferred shot at the ten
pin. (No system is perfect) Adjust the boards accordingly
6 pin: move three boards right and throw the normal
pin shot
3 pin: move six boards right and throw the normal ten
pin shot

7 and 10 pin:

Set up goals while doing this, for example: I want to make 10 in a

row for both 7 pin and 10 pin.

Cannot hit the 2 or 3 pin but allowed to hit the 4 or 6 pin.

Help accuracy while shooting at your comer pins.

2-3 Drill:
Start by hitting the 2 pin without hitting the head pin, then hit the 3 pin
without hitting the head pin, then the 4 pin without hitting the 2 pin, then
the 6 pin without hitting the 3 pin, then hitting the 7 pin without hitting the
4 pin, and finally hitting the 10 pin without hitting the 6 pin. To add difficulty
to this drill, say you make it all the way to the 6 pin after hitting the 2, 3, 4
pins and then miss on the 6 pin, start over. The goal is to make each one in
a row and if not, start over with the 2 pin each time. Again always start with
the 2 pin and you cannot move on until you make each one successfully. If
you miss, start over with the 2 pin. Remember the goal is to make 2, 3, 4, 6,
7, 10, all in a row.
This helps with all of your spares, for example, the buckets and picket
fences.
Targeting and being more accurate since you are trying to hit a small
window.

2-3 Combos:
A drill that will help with the middle of the lane.
Start with either the 2 or 3 pin, in this case does not matter which one.
Same principle as before, make the 2 pin without hitting the head pin, then
you are to make what is left. For example, shoot at the 2 pin successfully,
then say you are left with the 1-3-6, now you are to make the 1-3-6. After
done correctly this is the 2 combo. Same principle for the 3 pin combo. Make
the 3 pin without hitting the head pin and then make what is left. Try and
make 5 of each combo, so Five 2 pin combos and then Five 3 pin combos.
Helps with buckets, picket fences, and washouts.
Help with your targeting and making your spares with more ease.

Spares are important, but why? Lets say you just shot 279! Great Game! You
had all Strikes except for a 9/ in the 6th frame. Lets say you didn't spare and
ended up missing that single pin. You just shot 267 instead of 279 because
of that. So that one spare alone would cost 12 pins. We tend to average it
out to about 10 pins for every spare missed is what it ends up costing you
score-wise. An all 9/ game would be 190 to where as an all 9- game would
result in a 90 game.

SPARE SHOOTING DRILL: alone or in partners.

1st shot: bowler throws the ball straight down 20 in an effort to hit the head
pin directly. This will likely leave corner pin combinations.
Shoot the remaining pins.
PUSHAWAY DRILL:
Purpose: To improve stance and push away consistency. In addition, the drill
supports improving the timing step of a 5-step approach. Finally, it
contributes to a free swing. An outstanding drill that can be done at
home....
To illustrate, imagine pushing the ball away on the third step of a 5 step
delivery. The bowler will have inappropriately late timing. Specifically, this
bowler only has 2 steps for the ball to complete a full swing. Consequently,
it is impossible for the swing to be free.
This leads to poor performance, not carrying shots and inconsistencies.
Major Steps in a 5-Step Approach Major Focus Points
1st Step: Ball and ball-side arm remain motionless as the bowler takes one
natural step.
2nd Step: As you push the ball, think about achieving an intersection of the
elbow, knee and heel. Ball and foot move in unison with the elbow
intersecting the knee as ball enters into swing. This can help you improve
timing consistency.
4th Step: The Ball should be at the top of the swing with hand on top of the
ball. If the ball is moving up (late timing) or down (early timing) at this point,
your timing is poor.

A muscled swing is one in which a bowler either pulls-up in the upswing or

pullsdown
in the down swing. If either occurs, the bowler will lose the benefits of a
free gravity induced swing. Try watching elite bowlers. You should see their
swing
be the same speed in both the upswing and downswing. Specifically, the
swing is
fluid and smooth, up and down.
The Slowinski Pushaway Drill
With just a 10 minute commitment each day, this drill will help you by
improving
your timing as well as freeing-up your swing. In this drill, you will take the
first
two steps of a full approach. But, the ball will swing twice. After the first
swing,
you will reload into the stance starting position, pause, then pushaway and
let the
ball swing freely again. The beauty of this drill is that it can be done at
home, on
the lanes or in the gym. I actually use it at the gym as well with a 16 pound
medicine ball with a handle.

FOLLOW-THROUGH DRILL
1. Consists of two directions: vertical and horizontal.
2. To the back/shoulder is more upward than outward.
3. Like the one above is more outward desired for our
program.
4. An outward Follow-Through will lead to increased ball
speed.
5. An outward Follow-Through will lead to a wrist position
that is more collapsed at the bottom of the swing leading
to more ball reaction.
o An upward follow-through keeps the wrist cupped at the bottom of the
swing too much.
Purpose: To break a bowler's habit of following through with too
much upward motion or too far to their back. Promotes a long
and low follow-through needed in today's game.
FOUL LINE DRILL
1) Bowler gets into a finish position at the foul line. Stand on 20
looking at 10 to open the shoulders slightly.

2) You want the slide leg to be about 140 degrees (biomechanics

research found elite bowlers finished in this position).
3) Be sure that the trail leg is in an appropriate position. Foot at 7 for
RH or 5 for LH.
4) The trail leg should not be straight. Have the bowler bend the trial
leg. I position the trail leg knee just past the center of the slide knee.
Slightly to the left of center for RH and slightly to the right for LH
bowlers.
5) Space the distance between the slide leg and trail leg for good
balance and to achieve both the 140 degrees and the trail leg
positioning. Keep in mind a good finish position and watch for sitting
too much or standing too high. Shoulders should be slightly forward.
6) The trail foot is positioned at 45 degrees (not flat or straight)
7)Balance arm firm at 8 (right-handed bowler) or 4 (left-handed bowler)
8) Start with the ball down at the side. Starting down at the side
promotes more balance in the drill as compared with a standard
pushaway version.
9) Remind the bowler (push, relax, roll)
10) Hold this position for 1 second before beginning push.
11) Push the ball upward to the belt and relax into the swing. Watch
that the bowler does not move the ball backwards at all. If a bowler
moves the ball backward, you can place your hand on the back bottom
of the ball and gently push it forward and then move the hand when it
reaches just under the belt line. Do this a few times until the bowler
gets the feeling.
12) Hold the finish position until the ball hits the pins. Expect this
coaches.... It will contribute to more commitment at the foul line
COACHES OBSERVATION TIP: Watch for muscle in the upswing or
down swing. I want to see a uniform flowing swing in this drill.
The best place to view for muscle is the uniformity of the swing
speed and the shoulder motion. These two will show you how
free the swing is....
Keeping a bowling journal:
The best way to find out what your weaknesses are. Track your progress at
practice sessions and tournaments, you will clearly see what areas of your
game need improvement.

Practice Plan Session:

 Rotate bowling centers to be prepared for different conditions.

Game 1 : Warm up using plastic ball. Stand right and aim for 6-7 board
to work on my targeting skills. *Note: I tend to take a bit to get loose
and fully stretched out, so I always take a full game to get ready.
Game 2 : Shoot 10 pins for the first ball and 7 pins for the second ball.
Game 3 : Shoot the 3-6-10 spare on the first ball. Shoot spare that is
left over on the second ball (7 pin, 4-7, 4 pin, etc.).
Game 4 : Get lined up and throw a regular practice game. (I stood at
19 and targeted 7).
Game 5 : Drastically change your line and ball, if possible, and try
another angle to the pocket. Get lined up using this change, and repeat
for Game 6. (In this case, I moved my feet to 34 and targeted 19. In
choosing this line, there really wasnt much thought about it. I simply
wanted to pick a different standing and targeting approach than what I
was doing, and my only focus hitting my mark, regardless of the
result).
Game 6 : See Game 5 notes and repeat.
Game 7 : Arrow targeting: start at 5 board and work left to 10, 15 and
20 for each frame. Then, work from 20 back to 5. For the last two
frames, go from 5 to 20 on each alternating shot. (I started by standing
at 15 and hitting 5. Each frame, I moved five boards left until I got to
targeting 20, then I moved back toward 5).
Making a plan like this is not difficult. The hardest part is focusing and
telling yourself in your mind that its just practice. Its a method to improve
your game, and the score does not matter. All that matters is how you did in
your practice session and whether or not you accomplished the goals you
set out to achieve.

There are no shortcuts when you want to be one of the best, and you have
to have mindful practices. Its not about the quantity, its about the quality.
Practice smart. Have a plan. Every time I hit the lanes, I have an intention.
When I meet that intention, the practice session is over. Sometimes its 45
minutes, and sometimes its two hours.

Quality, not quantity. Be sure you know what you want to get out of
each practice. I also never work on too much at one time. Ill take one
piece of the puzzle, work on it until I feel its right, then move on to the next
piece. I am always taking video of my bowling as well. A few shots of
every session get recorded. Its really important to get a visual of your
game. I also will send those few recorded clips to the IAB team members
and have them give me some more ideas on areas in need of
improvement.

Practice during the week for score isnt a bad thing, but it shouldnt be the
only thing. You want to have a well-rounded game, especially if you plan to
bowl in tournaments and different bowling centers, where the shot can be
drastically different. These are the times your practice will give you an
advantage above the rest of the field and hopefully be the difference
between bowling well and bowling ridiculously outstanding!

A BOWLER'S GUIDE TO AN 'UNMUSCLED' ARMSWING

In bowling, there are a lot of things that separate a really good bowler from
an average bowler. One of these essential things is having an unmuscled
arm swing. I know a lot of people think that the amount of speed that is put
on the ball is due to the amount of muscle you use. That isn't true. Below
are a few things that will help you develop an unmuscled arm swing.
1. To prove that you can develop proper speed without a lot of muscle take
your bowling ball, extend your arm outward like you are starting your arm
swing, now just drop your arm. If you notice gravity is dropping your arm, it
should be swinging back and forth (like a pendulum). You are feeling what a
proper arm swing feels like.
2. Now granted, just doing this will not make you the next national
champion. You have to square your shoulders and be properly balanced
throughout the arm swing. What will help you do this is keeping your eyes
locked on a target (preferably the arrows on the lane).
3. It is not a difficult concept to grasp that when you start your push away
you should push toward your target. Now all you have to do is maintain a
proper arm swing and you should hit your target the majority of the time.
Drills are marvelous training aids because they save you time. They are
effective because they force you to focus your attention on THE FEEL of one
or a set of specific movements, rather than on the general feeling of the
entire delivery! If you use the following drills regularly as part of your
practice routine, you will reach your goals much quicker.
UPPER BODY (PUSHAWAY, PENDULUM SWING, AND TAKEAWAY) DRILL
This drill may be done on the lanes or at home. If you use this drill at home,
try to do it in front of a full-length mirror so you can keep an eye on the level
of your shoulders, and the position of your arms during the swing. Be careful
any time you swing a ball; check around you to see that your swinging ball
will not hit anything!
Objective: to feel your ball swinging freely from your shoulder and to train
your balance arm in a proper takeaway.
Directions: (Facing the mirror), take a stable setup, just as you would during
your normal delivery. Without taking any steps, push your ball out into the
fully extended pushaway position until both elbows lock. Then, let your ball
fall into the swing by pendulum action only. Release your ball with your
balance hand and let your balance balance arm move to a position out,
down, and slighly back, away from your body. Let the ball fall at the same
rate as the downswing. Keep your back upright and do NOT assist or retard
the ball in any way. Just let it fall.

Keeping your elbows locked, let your ball swing forward from the top of the
backswing. Do not "yank the ball down" from the top of the backswing!
Meet the ball with your balance hand, and hold your ball at the extended
pushaway destination for a second. Then, return the ball with both hands to
your original setup position. Repeat this drill several times.
During regular practice, if you round off (point down) or otherwise misdirect
your pushaway in any way, do this drill a couple of times, followed
immediately with a full delivery.
LOWER BODY (FOOTWORK) DRILL
This drill may be done on the lanes or at home. If you use this drill at home,
do it in on a smooth surface, being careful not to scratch your floor when
you slide.
Objective: to train in slow, flowing heel-toe steps to a well-balanced finish,
with an upright posture.
Directions: Take a stable setup, but hold your ball firmly at your midline; do
not put your fingers or thumb in the holes. You will keep the ball in this
position during the entire drill. Begin counting a cadence in the following
manner, "one AND two AND three AND four AND one etc. You will take four
steps.
On the AND after four, step out with your swingside foot so that its heel
makes contact on the count of "one." Take normal heel-toe walking steps,
concentrating on the feeling of your weight being transferred from the heel,
through the arch, to the toe as you walk forward. Do not place one foot in
front of the other or step from side-to-side. Do not shuffle and do not
hesitate between steps. Your HEELS should touch down precisely on each
count of your cadence.
Take your first three heel-toe steps without bending your knees. Then, take
your fourth step on the toe of your sliding foot, bend your swingside knee,
keep your back upright and SIT TALL. Push your sliding foot forward, using
your swingside foot as an anchor.
Focus your attention on the feeling of your push and its effect on your hips
and bowling shoulder. Feel the superior body balance resulting from both
feet remaining on the approach. Repeat this drill many times, attempting to
stay motionless at the end of the slide.

During regular practice, if your footwork on a previous delivery was not as it

should be, do this drill a couple of times, followed immediately with a full
delivery
FINISH (LAST STEP, SLIDE, RELEASE, AND FOLLOWTHROUGH) DRILL
This drill is called the ONE-STEP DELIVERY and should be done on the lanes,
since you actually roll the ball. This drill is also a good way to warm up
before beginning any bowling at game speed.
Objective: to refine the finish by eliminating all previous steps; to
troubleshoot the delivery from any problems with the finish.
Directions: Take a normal, stable setup with your feet together. Do
everything above your waist that you do in a normal delivery. But, take no
steps until your ball reaches the top of your backswing.
When your ball is motionless at the top of the swing, begin to step forward
with your sliding foot, bending your swingside knee very deeply, and sliding
at the same time. Maintain an upright posture and lower your hips.
Keep your swingside foot on the approach. Use it as an anchor to push your
sliding foot toward the foul line. Keep your balance arm out, down, and
back. Repeat this exercise as many times as you desire; pay particular
attention to the feel of your the shoulders, hips, and back in lending
stability.
During regular practice, if your finish is not stable -- especially if you step to
the side after delivering a ball, do this drill a couple of times, followed
immediately with a full delivery.

The bowling lane and approach contain DOTS (dowels) and ARROWS which
are visual aids to proper alignment for strikes and spares. These aids are
positioned on numbered boards.
ON THE APPROACH
There are three sets of seven dots on the approach. The first set located
approximately 15 feet from the foul line; the second set is 12 feet away; and
the third set is approximately 3 inches away. In some centers, the outermost
dots are missing at the 12- and 15-foot levels. The center dot in each set is
larger than the rest. You use the first two sets to help you choose where to
stand on the approach for strikes and spares -- your SETUP LOCATION. The

third set will help you or an observer determine exactly where your ball
touches down on the lane -- the TOUCHDOWN POINT.
The numbers of the boards upon which the dots are placed are indicated in
figure 1. In order for all bowlers to communicate correctly, right-handed
bowlers need to count from right to left, while left-handed bowlers need to
count from left to right. For purposes of explaining strike targeting below,
we will limit the number of playable boards at 20. Therefore, the sequence
is 5, 10, 15, 20, 15, 10, and 5. We will change our illustration when we talk
about spare shooting.
ON THE LANE
There is a set of SEVEN ARROWS located approximately 15 feet from the
foul line and a set of TEN DOTS located approximately six feet from the foul
line. These are parts of the RANGEFINDER targeting system innovated by
Brunswick during the second world war. The board numbers are indicated in
figure 1. Note that the approach dots and the lane arrows are in line with
the pins, while the lane dots are not.
HOW TO TARGET FOR A STRIKE WHILE IN YOUR SETUP
You may use either the arrows or the dots as your VISUAL TARGET -- the
point where you fix your gaze. The following method uses BOTH -- the way
the Rangefinder system was originally intended to be used. The sequence
is shown in figure 2.
1. First, choose your intended target line starting from the approach dots at
the foul line and ending with the arrows at 15 feet; your target line is
approximately 15 feet long. Let's pick a 12-to-8 target line; your ball touches
down on board 12 and crosses board 8 at the arrows. walk toward your
target.
2. Next, extend this path in your mind's eye all the way back to your setup
position on the approach. It crosses board 16 at the level of your setup. walk
toward your target.
3. Position your bowling shoulder and your ball directly over this extended
target line. in this case, both would be over board 16, with your forearm in
line with your target. walk toward your target.
4. Square your shoulders so that they are 90 degrees to your forearm. walk
toward your target.

5. Square your feet perpendicular to your shoulders and parallel with your
target line to ensure that you will walk parallel with your swing. walk toward
your target.
6. Since the lane dots at six feet are closer and easier to see, drop your
gaze back to these and use them as your visual target during your delivery.
Since these dots are closer to each other, you can more effectively "fine
tune" where you place your ball along your target line. walk toward your
target.
7. When you start to move, make sure to push your ball toward your target
and walk toward your target.

Know where you are on the approach at all times for your strike ball and
your spare ball! Just like coordinates on a map, locations relate to your body
build and to the path of your ball. You cannot just stand in an arbitrary place
and roll your ball toward an arbitrary target without it interfering with the
quality of your delivery!
For any given shot, put your body in a position which ensures accuracy and
consistency in the path of your ball. You accomplish this by understanding
APPROACH COORDINATES which involve two dimensions -- (1) how far you
are away from the foul line and (2) how far left or right.
COORDINATE 1 - DISTANCE FROM THE FOUL LINE
This coordinate involves how far from the foul line you take your STANCE, or
"SETUP." Although often-ignored, this critical factor determines how well
your footwork fits your swing. If you stand too far back, your steps will
probably be too long, and your swing will be hurried. If you stand too close,
you will cut your last two steps short, losing accuracy and lift during your
release. Once you determine the best length, you should not have to
change it, with the exception of fine tuning.
HOW FAR SHOULD YOU TAKE YOUR SETUP FROM THE FOUL LINE? One word
of caution -- do not use the traditional method of "pacing off" the approach
and adding half a stride for your slide! This will position your setup too close
to the foul line, giving you too little distance for an effective shot. The
following method is more reliable for determining an APPROACH LENGTH
appropriate for you.

Assume a setup position, but with your back to the pins and with your heels
approximately two inches from the foul line. Without a ball, take a simulated
delivery, using walking steps and end with a deep knee bend and a slide.
Then, look down to see where the toe of your sliding foot has stopped. This
is the place where the backs of your heels should be during your setup. This
method should give you the proper length to your approach for a lowhips/high-leverage body position during your slide.
COORDINATE 2 - LATERAL POSITION, LEFT TO RIGHT
This coordinate determines your ALIGNMENT for strikes and spares. If you
were to roll your ball from your setup position without taking any steps, your
ball would follow a path determined only by the direction of your swing; the
path of your steps would not be a factor. However, since under normal
circumstances, you take steps to the foul line, you will always need a lateral
starting point and a direction to walk for a particular ball path.
Your desired ball path is your desired TARGET LINE. For accuracy and
consistency, keep your SWING PLANE, the circle made by your ball in the
swing, aligned with your target line. When you walk your path to the foul
line, your body's center of gravity -- it's CENTERLINE PLANE -- traces an
imaginary line on the approach; we call it the APPROACH LINE.
To keep your swing in line with your target during your approach, your
approach line and target line must stay parallel with each other during your
approach. We like to say, "Walk alongside your swing -- never toward it,
never away from it!"
Use the dots and arrows to choose what path you want your ball to follow.
Then line up your bowling shoulder and your ball with the ball path, then
square your shoulders 90 degrees to the ball path. Finally, push your ball
toward your target and walk toward your target. Bowling consistently will be
much easier.

When a student "signs up" for a course in high school or college, he expects
to BE TAUGHT and to HAVE HOMEWORK. If you are a serious beginner
bowler, you should anticipate the same for yourself. Since the SPORT of
bowling contains many fascinating aspects for the enthusiastic learner, you
can gain great enjoyment from a systematic approach to improvement.
BEING TAUGHT

First, no matter if you are a junior, adult, or senior bowler, you should locate
and hire a good bowling INSTRUCTOR who is paid for his or her services. If
you need help in locating an instructor, ask a pro shop professional, a
bowling center proprietor, a PBA representative, etc. for a referral to a
competent one.
How can you determine the quality of an instructor? A GOOD INSTRUCTOR is
not necessarily a great bowler. Rather, he or she is a good observer who can
pinpoint the causes of problems quickly and make recommendations which
cure the cause of the problem. The good instructor understands completely
the relationship of ball fit and total weight to each and every element of the
delivery.
A good idea is to watch and listen to an instructor during a lesson with a
student. You should see that the good instructor is always objective, always
dealing with issues and never with the personalities of other instructors. He
or she is confident, but not egotistical. A good instructor is a problem-solver
and a time-saver for the student.
Beware the poor, or rather, the poorly-informed, instructor! The good
instructor can tell you "why", while a POOR INSTRUCTOR can barely tell you
"how!" Furthermore, do not confuse enthusiasm with teaching skill; even
though an instructor may be quite motivational, the lesson can still lack
substance.
The poor instructor does not pay close attention during a lesson; he may not
know exactly what to observe. He may demonstrate but not be able to
explain concepts well. If he makes any recommendations, they may refer
only to symptoms and not to causes. The poor instructor typically uses his
student as a guinea pig, having him repeat one pointless movement after
another, injecting more errors into the student's already-flawed delivery.
An ongoing relationship with a good instructor can be quite rewarding and is
probably necessary if you want to bowl well and are serious about bowling.
Learning on your own or with a poor instructor can be a time-wasting
experience. The frequent slumps and the time spent in "unlearning" bad
habits can be quite substantial and frustrating!
HAVING HOMEWORK
As soon as you can, purchase a good basic bowling text. Ask your instructor
or a shop professional for a title. Don't just read -- STUDY -- your book; take
notes, just as you would for a course in school. Your objective is to become a
lifelong student of bowling form, always comparing what you learn with
what you actually do on the lanes.

When you begin your study, do not concern yourself with subjects such as
bowling history; save these for later -- after you have learned how to bowl
consistently. When reading, disregard pictures which do not actually depict
the principles explained in the text. As you progress, pay special attention
to the timing between footwork and the position of the ball in the swing.
Use your PRACTICE Time to establish and maintain a PENDULUM SWING and
fit the pace of your footwork to it. Everything else -- direction and speed of
your steps, and the orientation of your upper body -- will remain consistent
if your pendulum swing is consistent. This will help you have a simple,
smooth, and consistent delivery.
We encourage you to MEMORIZE the location of the DOTS AND ARROWS on
the approach and lane. In practice, use these aids to remember where to
stand and where to fix your gaze during your delivery. If your use them
consistently, you will keep your body and swing aligned, ensuring a
consistent direction to your ball, each and every shot.

1 Spread Index, Pinky Close, Straight Wrist

The most common hand position is the straight wrist, with the index finger
somewhat spread out and the
pinky finger a little closer to the middle fingers. This generally imparts a
smooth, predictable reaction for
most lane conditions.
2- Both Fingers Spread
One common variant of this is to spread both the index and the pinky
fingers as much as possible. This
hand position creates a lot of stability in the hand, as you are essentially
using all four fingers to roll the ball.
You trade power in the release for this reaction. The great straight players
like Walter Ray Williams, Jr. will
go to such a release on very tough lane conditions where a great degree of
accuracy and forward roll are
necessary.
3 Index Finger In, Pinky Out
If you want to create a lot of forward roll with more ball roll, simply move the
index finger in towards the
center and leave the pinky finger spread. This will create a lot more roll than
having the index finger spread,
and the spread of the pinky finger slows down the turning motion. Caution
this hand position is quite

difficult to control.
4 Index Finger Out, Pinky In or Tucked, Cocked Wrist
This hand position will maximize power and turn, and create a sharper
breakpoint. If you keep the wrist
cocked all the way to the release point, it will delay the break point of the
ball. If you keep the wrist cupped
and then straighten it out and the release point (known as the cup and
collapse), you will create a very
powerful roll that will still be more predictable than the straight cup. The
straight cup with no collapse was
very popular in the 70s and 80s, but is much less popular with todays
bowling equipment. Still you may
find an occasional use for this release. Caution: tucking the pinky
effectively changes the span and
can cause some strain!
5 Spare Release
In this release, open the hands at the release point, and rotate the thumb
toward the right (left for lefthanders).
Generally, both fingers are somewhat spread when using a spare release,
and the wrist is
anywhere from straight to broken back. The motion of opening the hand at
the release point makes the
thumb and fingers release at almost the same time, and cuts down on ball
roll. The opposite rotation of the
wrist straightens out the ball at the release.
6 A Special Release
Heres a release that I have used for several years with great success, but it
is not for everyone. Insert the
middle finger into the ball, but only touch the ring-finger hole with the ring
finger, then insert the thumb.
This combination, if you can control it, will create a great deal of extra
length to the shot. It works well when
you need to make the ball in your hand skid longer, but with a similar
reaction at the back of the lane.
7 Combine with changing Axis Rotation
If you now combine some of these with coming straight up the back of the
ball, a normal amount of turn, or
rotating your hand strongly around the ball, you can create a great variety
of reactions with the same ball!