a B The Opinionated Knitter Elizabeth Zimmermann Newsletters 1958 - 1968Table Newsletters Fair Isle Yoke Sweater EPS, Yoke schematic Scandinavian Sweaters (2) Graphs for Knitting Color-Patterns EDS, Dropped Shoulder schematic “lassie "Brooks" Saddle-shoulder sheepsdown; four garments \ran Sweater or Cardigan Fomten Jacket camiless Raglan Sweater cer-Stitch Blanket Woodsman's Socks Five Caps (2) ¥-Necked Aran Cardigan & One Sweater landic Yoke Sweater iting Techniques page 10 page 15 page 16 page 22 page 25 page 26 page 30 page 36 page 42 page 48 page 52 page 56 page 58 page 66 page 72 page 76 0 page page 84 88 of Contents and... Adult Surprise Jacket ‘Wool Gathering #62 plus... from notebooks and journals, very Brief biography cross-couniry skiing history of Wool Gathering dropped sizebes excerpts fom tv series Mother's Day German Christmas Canadian journal Avan knisting at the Schoolhouse Easter biographical notes journal black bread spectacle page 112 page 120 Elizabeth writes: page 5 page 7 page 8 page 16 pages 20, 21 page 27 pages 36, 37 pages 38 - 41 page 70 page 77 page 83 pages 86, 87 pages 91 +118, 119 pages 108, 109 page 115 KGWhen Elizabeth died in November of 1999, the New fork Times wrote an unusually long obituary, complete vith her photograph and a schematic of EPS. The Times lescribed Elizabeth as, “... a woman who brought a venetrating intellect and a sculptor’s sensitivity to evolutionizing the ancient art of knitting.” Here, as written to the British guild, Slip Knos, is a ery brief synopsis of her life: May 10, 1988 n answer to your request, here are some biographical details: Born 1910 in London (NMaida Vale) to Grace (née ‘reenwood) and Herbert Lloyd-Jones. Childbood mainly in Birchington, Kent and vightlingsee, Essex, School: Ouklea, (then in Essex), Art school in Lausanne, witzerland and then the Akademie in Miinchen, Bavaria In 1937 married Arnold Zimmermann (who didn' like “ler, nor Hitler him), in Wealdstone Registry Office and 7 off 10 the U.S., where brewmasters were needed. Arnold 4 good one, We lived on Long Island NY, in New Hope PA, Ghvaukee WE and now in the northern part of that stat, Three kids, Thomas, Lloie and Meg When Arnold retired we moved ta our dear old -andoned brick schoolhouse bang in the middle of rural ‘sconsin where weve lived happily now for 20 years or so. Love ta knit and had many of my designs accepted by -enal publications. Discovered some splendid unbleached vol andl started a small mail-acdee knittingbnatecsd.suoel Pasiness thirty years ago. (NO synhetics) zed to disagree with printed knitting directions as too «or 0 complicated, so began pussing ous one-page of my own (later to blossom into our twelve-page ing). sng age and mail order knitting business started t0 mx on each other, so passed the whole works on t0 our Meg Swansen, who runs it with great succes, red Knitting Camp in 1974 which draws “er from across the US to enthusiastic weeks at the local sench of che University of Wisconsin. Dear me; all the above reads utterly boastful, Bust srue, 5 “Just yesterday I found the following in the Oaklea alumni newsletter, Old Girls’ League: “Betty Lloyd-Jones - Elizabeth Zimmermann, In December last year, Betty wrote: Tam a full-blown U.S. citizen and achieved this honour during World War Tivo when I was — having married 4 citizen of Munich — actually German. (Generous people, the Americans.) We have three American kids and two ditto grandchildren, and live happily in the wilds of Central Wisconsin in a rescued and cannerted old one-room brick schoolhouse. My main interes is handknitting and I well remember making a yellow-and-white jumper at Oaklea, under the watchful ee of Miss Ben.’ ” The original Newsletters, typos and all, are presented on the following pages. Occasionally Elizabeth revised the firse version slightly for a reprint and, if there are significane differences, we will show you both old and new. Additional text by me, Meg. You will see a few black and white snapshots incerspersed through the pages; they are from the ‘70s when our kids were little. It was only upon designing the layour that some of the new photos of my grandchildren reminded me of old snapshots. ‘The Opinionated Knitter is a name by which Elizabeth referred to herself (see page 8), and was the title she wanted w use for her first book — but Scribner's chose Knicting Without Tears, instead. We seize this opportunity 10, at last, accede to her wish. KGKGLast year ought Iwas sigh Te was a is gazed at me proachfully and hed, As a young ssoman I considered myself competent on skis, having been lucky enough to have exjoyed about a decade of Alpine skiing, Standards were gen- ok in those days. Snappy turns on a well-groomed slope were onsidered more mereiricious than otherwise and the main ibutes of a good skier were endurance, strong legs and a of discomfort - richly rewarded by breath-taking descents rough vingin snow. Lifts were for the rich and worldly. cohol and aprés-shi2: as Miss Brodie so truly said, “For sople who like that sort of shing, that is the sore of thing like,” . But I do enjoy skiing: the smell of the wax, the effore ‘getting the bindings just so, the slipping of hands into -ns and mittens into pole-straps, the frst few happy ips of skis on good powder snow; all these take me back ay youth, which memory tells me was carefiee, but which sells me was nothing of the kind. When the Old Man made me a present, sherefore, of ome very beautiful cross-country skis, I was pleased and ul. .. Competently equipped, then, we make dreamlike « hrough our own river-bostoms, which are terra incognita of the year because of masquitoes, floods and generally czy conditions. The Ibis inexpressibly beautiful to glide through the snowy woods, making our own trails and seeing only the other trails q of winged or four- legged creatives, busy on their own a We skim along, s * up, softly down. Sometimes we pack a litle lurch so that we can go A, further afield and ‘ake advantage of the short winter day. Our dinner table was once a three inch slab of ice, firmly frozen to a tree trunk and stuck there when the swollen but frozen river returned to its normal level. I shall never be an expert, but at least I can keep up wich the Old Man when bis pace is moderate, Just she right form af exercise for an Old Woman. Our skis are beautifil in themselves. Mine are blue, w the royal Swedish emblems the Old Man's came to the U ‘with us thirty-five years ago, after many years of racing and Sonorable service in the Alps. Fe boughs shem off a gity in Norway where they had been made by Marius Eriksson, Sr who got his hickory from Amerika: so they have returned 10 the land of their beginnings. For several years they weve used cnly in Forese Park just beyond Brooklyn; later they served ‘im on the rolling hills of Bucks County, PA and then in the Ketile Moraine near Milwaukee, When we return home, good-night ally under the featherbed for a luxurious afternoon nap. What fan is is 20 be an old lady honowrably entitled to the likes of ths. The Sook slips from the hand, the eyes close, Ill count to eleven Jive, six, seven ... nothing more. Out like a light End of seasonable digression. Opinionated KnitterThe history of Newsletter (VL) and Wool Gathering (1G), from Elizabeth's Jouss PS. When WG are sold out, we reprint the instructions onto a single-sheet Spun Out Feb Ist, Monday Took a week offt0 wrestle with WG. This has bappened semi-annually now for 14 years and it looks as if it will go con as long as there is breath im my body. From year to year it becomes more rewarding Back in 1957 when my Wool Trade was in its infancy I started a newsletter The first two were long skinny sheets swith various items of woolly interest: in which magazines my designs had appeared, which wools to use for what, exc. Then in 1958 my heart was once again broken by the publishing of one of my designs with some most inferion, not 10 say misleading directions. Magazine editors frequently impose their o1on knisting theories upon she helpless freelancer So Fsaid so myself dammit, Pil pue ous my own divecsions in my own newsletter, fre to wool customers, 25¢ to every- one elve. And Newsletter #1 appeared, It is still in existence in its original form and has a certain archaic, if not to say cmateurish, aspect with a very wasteful layout, Ir was well received and was fllowed by numbers 2 through 22. Eleven My Word! I realized that I was sending out thousands for free. at great cost in money and time, In fact about 16 of ar was consumed by Newsletter and a change in tactics lled for. I decided to up the price 300% and cut the free lise drastically. At least my hasband and children decided for me~ I was still jammering about ‘too expensive” and “customer good will” Bus he family was right. Nobody even blinked at the price-incveases some even said they welcomed. y had fole that only paying a quarter or even nothings ‘been like saking candy from a baby. Me. Elizabeth Zimmermann Ofcourse by charging more, I could afford ane single large sheet to two lange sheets, printed 0 and folded. With more space at my command I could give more detailed and discursive divections which I have found Anitters like. Too long have we knitters scratched along o meagre diet of conventional ‘directions’, abbre condensed and whistled down generally to allow m ‘for the photographs. Being my oun “editor” and | independent, I dispense with photographs entire myself with amateurish but accurate drawings. Expe araughtsmen are not usually knitters and I feel I can my own ideas clearly and succinctly, though with And as far photographs - nothing date so fast as ~~ not sweaters necesarily — but the models. Our minds were a blank as to a title (although I Lankered then as nous to be known as The Opinionated Knitter) so I started a small contest with a prize, and this brought forth the truly inspired suggestion of “Wool Gathering”. So Wool Gathering it is and will remain =m means of expression, my pulpit, my soapbos. Paradoxically, now that [have more space, [find it easier to fill and to my increasing surprise, [receive j rebuttal 19 my frequently unorthodox whims and theo So there is the history of Newsletter/Wool Gathering husband says the foregoing is lke a commercial, but it w not so intended. I fondly hope it to be of general interest exemplary of the fact that if you really hae something to about which you feel strongly, some of the people will listen some of the time. conteni KG[ jeslede Petal: The sweater in Newslewer #1 was actually designed in 1956, sold to a yarn company and subsequently appeared on the cover of one of their pamphlets. See page 12. The color names are those of the old one: stand Homespun Wool Elizabeth used for the || prototype; Shetland Wool yields che same gauge. The Opinionated KnitterPrice 25¢ iB ay Leaflet #1 uN Liz O10 MILWaA EAIRISLE YOKE SWE\TAR MADE ENTIRELY ON CIRCULAR NEEDLES, GAUGE 6 st to 1, Yaterials. € oz Shetlami or 3 skeins "Homespun" for main colour, 1 os of each of four harmonizing colours for yoke. LUC choenlen neste 42, Con walt (Cis, was, sles eo chuda on borhhiy Tews wh sewn wy 1 2u" circular needle #4, or any size to give above gauge, for body and lower yoke. 1 set sock needles #2, for cuffs and neck edge 1 16" circular needle #4, or any size to give above gauge, for sleeves and upper yoke, Measurenents of completed sweater. Bust 36", Overall length from back of neck 23", Sleeve length and body length to underarm, as desired, For each extra inch of width desired, add 6 st to body. Body. With #2 needle(s) cast on 200 st. K 2, P 2, firmly for 30 rows, Change to larger needle, and increase evenly to 212 st. Work in stocking st until piece measures 15" or desired length. Place 18 st at each underarm on thread or holder(X) Sleeve, With size 2 sock needles cast on Af st. K 2, P 2, for 30 rows. Change to 16" needle and increase evenly to 60 st. Work in stooking st until piece measures 8", Increase 2 st at underarm, and repeat this every 1}" until there are 74 ste Work even until piece measures 22" or desired length to underarm, Place 18 st at underarm on thread or holder.(X) Make second sleeve to correspond. Yoke. Place all 288 st of body and sleeves on larger 24" cireular needle, matching underarms, (X) and work around for 8 rows. Work pattern A, Next round, K 1, K 2 tog, all around, Work pattern B, changing to 16" needle if indicated, Next round, K 2, K 2 tog, all around. Work pattern C, Next round, K 1, K 2 tog, all around. There should be about 96 st, or anyway a multiple of 4, Work 1 round in main colour and change to #2 sock needles, and shape neck as follows:— Neck, K 2, P 2, over AB st of back of neck. Turn, Work in 2, P 2, over 50 ot. ‘Turn, Work in K 2, P 2, over 52 st. Turn, Continue in this way until 6 rows have hean completed, then work around for a further 7 rows. Dind off loosely, Weave together at underarms, Run double thread of nylon elastic eround neck and adjust to fit, vom Newsletcer #1 was mailed in September 1958 and Elizabeth three decreases from 1/3 each time to gingerly imported a small amount of wool from the Shetland 1/4 (42, keog) Islands to support the design, 1/3 (k1, k2tog) Consider employing a number of the tricks Elizabeth 2/5 (k2, k2tog, k2tog) You will end up with the sa vised since this design was initially published: number of neck stitches; 40% of the body stitches. - Phoney Seams on body and sleeves, - Or, for a large-circumtference sweater, I use four decre + Short Rows across the back of the body. rounds instead of three. ~ Mirror-image sleeve increases each side of three center 1/5 {k3, k2cog) around underarm stitches. 1/4 (2, k2t0g) around - With three decrease rounds in the yoke, the initial reduction 1/4 (K2, k2t0g) around is quite severe and can result in puckering, I have altered the 173 (kl, k2t0g) around schematic on page 15 Elizabeth Zimmermann~ Instead of all the neck shaping at the top of the yoke, consider working 2 or 3 sets of Shore Rows at the base of the DARK RLUE ee a SESS WHITE Grey LIGHT GREEN Cc @ X meoium Bie 0 oO x36 xx bE x, x xX, Ri ee xe B xx ae] KERR RA ARRAS x 5 SSE ] % Cast on and cast off loosely, Be sure to work at the correct GAUGE, When Imitting colour patterns, carry the yarn loosely across the back of your work. begin and end about 10-12 stitches into the front yoke; much further forward than you may imagine), then 2 or 3 me of short rows at the yoke top, as written above. ke, right after joining in the sleeves (these short rows will The Opinionated Knitterlate ‘50s, Elizabeth was becoming established as a + with her patterns appearing regularly in Vogue MeCalls and Woman’ Day magazines, as well as -ompany pamphlets from Pauline Denham, nnerin, Bernat and Unger his Fair Isle Yo! arn company’s schoo! sweater had appeared on the cover of a ind-college issue, with flat pieces scituted for Elizabeth’s seamless instructions. Her ;pointment was keen and it was then that she decided ro write, print and edie her own patterns, Thus, Newsletter #1 was produced and mailed in September of 1958. since Sweater styles at the time were slim-fittings hav: swung to voluminous and now, in 2004, are veering back to system (EPS) you can adjust all the dimensions to suit current fashion and/or body-hugging. Using Elizabeth's Percentage your own caste and achieve a perfect fit See the EPS-Yoke schematic on page 15. lentted by Berry Kendrickthe eolots Elizabeth used for the cover-sweater ‘entioned on the opposite page. Knitted by Therese Invert, Six more possible colot combinations knitted by [oye Williams All svcaters (excepr Sue Wallace) and swacches were knitcd in pure Shetland woo! The Opinionated KnitterEPS: Elizabeth's Percentage System Elizabeth's simple percentage system (which her son-in-law, Chris, named EPS) is a means by which you can make a custom fitted, seamless sweater by multiplying youer gauge cimes wanted body circumference. The resulting number equals 100%, or the Key Number (K]. Other sweater measurements will be a percentage of (K]. ‘The percentages gradually declared themselves to Elizabeth through the scores of seamless sweaters she had kcnitced over many years and she began to get a handle on the concept as early as 1959; see Newsletter #2 on page 17. In the ‘50's and “60's, sweaters were quite slim fitting and Elizabeth's original design called for a 33% of [K] upper sleeve. The yoke was then shaped with three concentric rings of decreases; gerting rid of 1/3 of the number of stitches on she needle during each of the three decrease rounds (kl, k2tog around). After having knitced a number of yoke sweaters, I was the slight puckering that sometimes resulted from the initial decrease. Since I always knitted with wool I could block the yoke smooth, but in the late 1970s it occurred to me to reduce the severity of the first decrease from 1/3 co 1/4 (k2, k2tog around). In order still to arrive at an approximately 40% neck opening, thae meant the second decrease would be 1/3 (but on fewer stitches, thus eliminating any gathers) and the final decrease had ro be 2/5 (IkI, k2tog, 12cog around) ... quite a severe decrease, but on relatively few stitches and the garment is then travelling horizontally across the shoulders. The above worked well uncil I began knieting larger sizes and increased the upper sleeve to about 35 - 40% of [K] nstead of 33%. As Medrith Glover discovered, the yoke - sd vertically - is rarely greater than 10-11” deep, egin to work some of the color patterns. When the Swatch more until you like the result. Steam-block the swatch and Cap is about 4-5 inches deep, you can steam it, take a gauge take a reading (stay a few stitches in from the distorted reading and either finish the cap or begin your sweater selvedges). Since you have only knitted with the “tight” side Or, knit a Speed Swatch: With a circular needle, cast on facing, you have a flat, circular swatch, abour 40 stitches and work a few ridges of garter stitch (back Tip: Work first and last stitch of each row wich both and forth) to prevent curling, Add the second color and *knit colors together to keep edges as tidy as possible. across the 40 stitches. Slide the stitches back around che The Opinionated KnitterThis design may also be found in Chapter 3 of Elizabeth’s book, Knitting Without Tears; buc it was first seen on her second television series for PBS: The Busy Knitter 2 in 1967. Although both series were stored in the PBS vaults in Washington D.C, they had been recorded on relatively primitive tape, suffered severe drop-out damage and were destroyed a number of years ago. The first PBS program in 1966, The Busy Knitter, was a 10-week series chat covered all details for knitting a circular, seamless Raglan pullover or cardigan, which was introduced by Elizabeth as follows: his is Elizabeth Zimmermann, the Busy Knitter. | propose, during the next ten sessions, 10 guide you through che apparent intricacies of a classic raglan sweater or cardigan, seamles, purl-less and made entirely on circular needles. Tehink, when we are through, you will agree shat theve are fow knitting problems that will not yield to a blend of common sense, ingenuity and resourcefulness; that working on your project bas been simple and pleasurable and that you have achieved a handsome, comfortable germent that will FIT. ‘The program was so popular that PBS requested a second one, Elizabeth had found the original ttle rather dull and wanted to liven things up a bit by calling the second series, The Busy Knitter Rides Again. The decision-makers at the station were nor amused and it was called The Busy Knitter 2. The sweater on this page is the original cone Elizabeth knitted for the second series On the opposite page is a version knitted by Sue Wallace -- lengthened by inserting an additional large motif NN) iilIn the PBS instruction booklet for ‘The Busy Knitter 2, Elizabeth wrote: ‘his time we will knit a ski sweater of Scandinevian sype: straight body, straight armboles ‘slecve-tops and slightly tapered sleeves. We can nus concentrate our fll attention on the devgn ind execution of the calor patterns, My sweater will be of 3-ply Sheepswool* in rea (background) and dark oaameal (patterns), +s his is ptcal of many of he lovely old sweaters nade before bleaching and dyeing were common. It ill be worked at a GAUGE of 4 stitches to 1” on 160 stitches and will chus be 40” around. 1 do not wage that you reproduce my sweater ~acily. On the contrary, it will give me pleasure to imagine many of you working out your sweaters in ndividual colors and designs. . Wat all possible, buy the bese yarn, which is nos ecesarily the most expensive! And at the end of the booklet: Knisting isa most ancient skill and I ike to chink that it was doe even before weaving, since che tools are so basic and simple. Two sticks and a 2 of thread und you can begin. Lt enables you to ke warm, confortable garments with few or no ams if you wish, Ie is soothing to do and can be tied everywhere with you, I offers endless poss Of design and is a crafé medium which is ‘now starting to be re-explored. “Please note that Sheepswool was re-designed by the mill several decades ago and is now thicker chan it used to be. This sweater will be quite heavy in 3-ply, but knits up beautifully in 2-ply at about 4-1/4 to 4-1/2 sts to 1”. Also, you may combine 2-ply natural Sheepswool with the rich, dyed colors of Rangeley Wool if you wish, as they are identical weights The Opinionated LL Iknitesd by Sue WallaceLeaflet #3 1968, Graphs for knitting ELIZABETH ZIMMERMANN SeLaunceabueree aah Boxss53 MILWAUKEE, WIS. 53211 patterns have been carefully chosen us suitable for colounpattern knitting, ve been gathered from many sources; #8,9,13,16 and 27 are my own, 49 you will » they eall for carrying yarn for a maximum of 5 sts — often not even that much, k from Hight to left, starting with bottom line, At dot, repeat around (or across) r project. Change pattern-rnds strictly at first ct of every rnd, Vary colours as wish, but never work with more than two at one tine. Hold one colour in either ad, working the right-handed and the left-handed way alternately, ive, knit one clr Lhe way you are acustomed to knit, and the other colour the way some other people knit. It will be slow at first, but with practice you will speed up astonish- a Che important adnonition -- carry yarn very loosely across the back of your work, otherwise your knitting will pucker, and be wasted and unloved, Elizabeth Zimmermann SN KGThen working color-pattems, itis advisable to keep the rried colot loops fairly shore across the back of the work, as igs and fingers can easily snag and pucker the fabric; or >18e, break the strand. Elizabeth's rule of thumb was not to carry a strand across re than 5 stitches (see NL#2 on page 18). If presented, for tance, with an eleven-sticch stretch, Elizabeth would add a owflake” in the middle of that carty and break it into five « *- five, Or ewise/trap the two colors around each other in middle of the carry. The i Coke uartnip— Ryaivol , Opinionated My guideline varies slightly: instead of five-stitches, I will carry for one inch without trapping. However, some instructions will ask you to trap the caetied wool every two or three stitches, thus producing a very dense fabric. As always, Knitter's Choice, Whenever possible, trap the carried color above a stitch of the same color or tone. Then, even if you get the dreaded peeking-through, the lice blip will not be noticed, KnitterElizabeth Zimmermann SM if-Drop (L side), or Modified Drop-Shoulder (R side) using Elizabeth's Percentage System (EPS) Boat Neck: Sew up V4 body width for each shoulder. Work a Hem, oF nica garterstitch Norwegian stand-up neck, Pin sleeve onto armie hhole and sew in. Or nit in, You may pick vp se around armhole Norwegian-Seyle Drop-Shoulder: Work and knit sleeve down, srmight from lower edge bbuc pattern sciceles will to shoulder be on their heads, ding stson thread at warm, < 100% = [K] : Se ‘Scoop Neck: 2-3” shy of wanted length, pue center ss on thread, cast on 5-7 steek sts.Continue (shap- ing ot not) to shoulder Modified Drop-Shoulder: decide wanted depth of inset, and put correspon- Work cop of sleeve back and forth to match depth of inset armhole OR, kee up all arm hole sts, work a hal Busser and decrease down to cul? Cast on 5-7 stel ses, and continue to neck opening Ribbed border: Cast On 90% of IK]. Inc.10% above ti, Fora cardigan, allow 5-7 extra Cast On (steck) stitches at the center front as afield for che future cueting, Stitch (or crochet) and cut center fiont as for armholes. The cardigan border tay be knitted all in one piece, direcdly onto the cut edge ‘To provide comfort and ease for the wearer, consider adding underarm gussets: 3-4 inches shy of the underarm, increase exch side of 1 or 3 side “seam” stitches every 3id or {th round to about 4-5” wide. Pur gusset stitches on a cheead and cast on 5-7 steek stitches. Reverse che above for top- down sleeves, or macch the above for cuff-up sleeves. The neck shape may be anything you like: do nothing for The Opinionates Elemmed borers Cast On 95% of (K]. Ine ar sides Kit actual hem after» garment is finished, a straight boaeneck — annoy the weater. Consider a square neck: put about 8-9” but che resulting high neckefront may worth of center-fiont stitches on a thread when you reach che base of your proposed neck. Cast on 5-7 steek stitches and continue to shoulder. For a scooped neck: put about 5-6" ‘forth of stitches on a thread, make asteek and decrease away the additional width by k2tog, knit steck, ssk every round o- every-other round, depending upon the shape you want. For a V-neck, put 3 sts on a coil-less pin and shape on each side vety 2nd, 3rd or 4th round (depending upon what angle you wand) to wanted wideh; chen straight o wanted height. KnitterLeaflet #4, fron Spring 1960 254. Classic "Brocka" sweater. Second, and, it 1s to hoped, inproved ELIZABETH ZIMMERMANN Edition. Winter 1965. BOX S555 MILWAUKEE, Wis, 53211 Dear Knitter, Here 4s a new way to make an old favourite -- a classic "Brooks" sweater with epeulet (or saddle) shoulders. It is worked from the bottom up entirely on circular needles. Body end sleeves are made seperately to the arnholes; then all tut the underarm stitches are put on one needle, and decreased up to the neck in facsinile of set-in sleeves with epaulet shoulders. Lastly, the underarm seans are woven together, and lo, a seamless garment results. ‘The number of stitches to cast on depends on your own measurenents and on the GAUGE of your knitting, GAUGE neans the mmber of stitches to 1". To determine GAUGE, make a snatch in stocking-stitch, 24 sts.wide and 3" long, with the yarn and needles you plen to use. Block by steaming gently, and count the number of sts.to 3". Divide this by 3 to ensure obtaining en average inch, Multiply the GAUGE ty the mmber of inches around your sweater, & the result 4s the number of sts,to cast on. Below are directions for a useful 40" sweater at a GAUGE of 5 sts.to 1", I used a #5 needle, but you may init more tightly or loosely than I do, end need @ larger or smaller needle respectively. Please check your GAUGE strictly before you start. Figures in parentheses serve as a percentage guide if you have more or less than 200 sts. AR SEAVLESS "BROOKS" - 40" around, 23" long. 5 sts to 1", TERIALS, 4 skeins "Homespun", or 5 skeins 2-ply Sheepswool, or € skeins Fisherman Yarn, Amounts are genercus; umused skeins alnays mey be returned. 1 24" and 116" cirewlar needle, of a size to give you 5 sts, to 1", Maybe 4 sock-needles for lower sleeves. EODE, With 24" needle, cast on 200 sts. Join, being careful not to twist, end K for 14h". (Borders are worked later). Put 16 sts. (4 of 200’sts of body) on thread at each underern. Set aside. IEEVE. With 4 needles cast on 40 sts. (20% of 200). Join, and work sround, increasing 2 sts.t underarm every 5th rnd. ‘Soon you will have enough sts for the 16" needle. At 66 sts, (approx, 33% of 200) work straight until sleeve measures 18", or desired length to underera, allowing for border. Work another sleeve. Put all sts, of body and’ sleeves on 24" needle, matching undererms, (see diagram), and work straight for 2". SHOULDER SHAPING. Measure your own shoulder-width, (in my case 14"). Vultiply this by your GAUGE, and the result — 70 ste. (35% of 200)— is the ancunt of sts.for front and back. Place nerkera (I efer safety-pinss they don't have to be moved every row), 70 sts, art on front and back. Remaining sts,are for sleeves, and should equal on both sides. Now:~ Work across front to 1st marker, 1 1, El, psso (pass slipped st over). Work across R sleeve to within wef 2nd marker, K 2 tog. Work across back to 3rd marker, al 1, psso. ifork across L sleeve to within 2 ste of 4th marker, K 2 tog. You heve thus decreased 4 sts,in 1 rnd. Rep this rndvuntil 16 sts, (&% of 200) remain on each sleove. Now: Change the direc- ction Of your decreases by knitting 2 tog.where you have been doing 11, Kl, psso, and vice versa, alnays keeping intact the 16 sts, Elizabeth Zimmermann ZMHi of sleeves. Do this for 10 rnds,end then make epaulets:~ XK 15 sts, of R sloove, #11, K 1, paso. Turn. P 15, P 2 tog. Turn. Rep, those two little rows until Spprox ¢ of shoulder-width (18 sts) has been decreased on R side. Work across to L sleeve and repeat. There should be approx, 34 sts, left on front and on back. Work back and q forth on the 34 sto of back, decreasing 1 st off epaulets at the 7 end of each rox, ae you eid for shoulders. “after Ses ican Blduaye Gla have consumed half the epaulets. 412 that remains to be done is to work around on all Tiecad ne, cts-for about 1® in ribbing or gerter-st. Cast off loosely, and smn elastic thread through inside of neck-edge, adjusting to fit. Meave underarms. Pick up all sts, fee ng tomer edge. P lznd, Kl md. Deer loz (K 8, K 2 teg.around), ‘and errira good inch for hem. Do not cast off, tut tura in and sew up with noat Soess stitches, one for each £ st. Finish cuffs in the same way. Edges may be finished in garter-st, alco on 10% less sts. Or Jos ney ave begun nith 30 ivevof K 2,°P'2, rithing, tue hone bee reece ieee wee ° Line Being, and’, for ose, terres FOR SIEEVES. Cast on 50 sts, (25% of 200). Work as for long sleeves, but stop at 12", EOLA CIRDIGAY. ‘Before working tockedge, baste. dom eentre teense Wish eee eee ae loose tension, machine-st, twice each side of basting. Cut on basting. Pick up at the ate of 2 sts, for every 3 rone up R front, K ezound necks en chee peeane, FACE, UP at the border in garter-st, mitering neck-front ty increasing 2’ ste, et thie point every 2nd row. If your sweater is a little narrow, make a wide border. If it has turned out mich too big cut out a strip dom the front. Neke 7 buttonholes #" in from the edge on both sides, so that Sweater may pasa freely back and forth from son to daughter, by changing buttons. Trim the fuze off the cut edges, press flat, and neaten on the inside with matching thread, A snatch 42 not wasted labour ty eny moans; ae al 4t makes an excellent pocket. « | Happy Ming — Eyahel, | Flizabech writes 1 deplore Mother's Day. Mother has it goad and if'anyone laves her and wants to show is, one measly day in the year isa prety sguinchy space of time in which to da it A knitter writes, Knitter's Almanac is my favorite book of all time! I have a degree in literature, I read constantly. | own thousands of book, My husband says {own EVERY knitting book ever published (he might be right). And, still, if I were going to a deserted sland and could take only one book -- Knitter's Almanac!” The Opinionates Knitter KGElizabeth Zimmermann ST ifwil: Keniticd by Meg Swwansen The. Opiatonares Knitter KGByavotjmuannouud mimneaaee ae ete ae ere eae ELIZABETH ZIMMERMANN Dear Knitter, SHEEPSDOWN..., the nano iss paradox, but you mst admit hat It 4e descriptive, Tt 1s the happy result of collaborstion tetieen the Sheepsool mill and me, to satisfy demand for a yarn to knit Conichan Indian enectera ina lighter, encother, less pungent form. Keep design end shape Sisple, ani let the material work for you. It's a netural for Christmas presents, as it works up so fast. The final texture 48 light and fleccy, am inetfably warm and thick. Make allonance for this thickness (actually £" A in colour patterns), end make your sweater wider than usual, to leave room for the wearer inside.... Though tough when knitted, Sheepsdown has’ not great tensile Strength, so work 4t with a light hand, and’tell me if you want sone matohing yarn (free) for sewing up. For COWICHAN SWEATER use ny leaflet #2, and a gauge of 2 st or 3 st to 1" ona 10h ctrouler needle. Add @ shar? coller, (A), which 1s juste 6"-ride strip of gerter-st, sen on afternards. But there de another possibility for Sheepsdown in "Prime Rib" stitch, which goss as follonsi= Bow 1, "1, yarn fwd, ol next of as Sf to P, bring yarn back over E needle, repeat fron *, Row 2, 6’, tyern fd, 91 next ot as af to P. bring yarn back over R needle, <2 tog, rep: from *. Rep. row 2 for pattern, This is a very wei-d-e stitch, so allow for it. 36 st give a width of about 23" All right, then, PRIVE RIB SWEATER (5) takes 7-E skeins Sheepsdom for en everege Size (23" across, 24" long). With #15 needles, rake fe ewateh, Multiply the mnber of st to 1" (about 1B...) by desixed wisth, Gast on resulting mumber of st, and work 4!" ~ 5" on smaller Reedies. Change to #15 needles and work straight to desired length to shoulder. Cast off 1/3 for each shoulder, end contime on centte 1/3 to Gesired ionguh for collar. Gast off loosely, Back and front are the ne. For sleeve, start at top with ¢ tho anount of body st. Work to Gesired length to cuff, decreasing 1 st each side every 2" (about 10 rows). Cast off, Sen up shoulders ani coller. Seu in sleeves. Sew up underarm and sleeve seans, That's it, (I elways sew from the right side; it's neater. The seriped Sheepsdown Watch Cap shown on page 34 and have access to the first stich of that row and WRAP it as 64 was knitted decades ago as I royed with color possibilities follows: slip the first stitch, bring the working wool forward, Brioche stitch that Elizabeth named “Prime Rib", and replace the slipped stitch and turn. Pick up color A. and corked as follows: work across, wrap, turn, change color, Repeat from *, 16° circular needle, east on in Color A {fiom 32 switching colors after each row. Because of the wrap, you will to 36 stitches) of thick Sheepsdown and work Prime Rib _be “sewing” up the seam as you knit. Nice, Il stiches, according to the above instructions. Turn, ‘At present, the Watch Cap may talke more than one skein. th Color B, * work across. When you have knitted the IF you do not wane the hac to turn up at the bottom, you may | h, slide the stitches around the 16” needle so you _be able to squeeze it out of a single skein; see page 53. Elizabeth Zimmermann eg HThen there is the ARAN COAT, (GC), which may be any length you pleases S712 skeins Sheopsdown. Use sane directions ani needle as for Conigte xen sweater, but leave out colour patterns, substituting any dros petterns or cables that please you, At shoulder height, cast off 3 r each shoulder, and contime on centre 1/3 with 16" odroular needle for hood. (W2"=14t)K Cast off. lake sleeves according to leatiee fae Gut emnhéles to match sleeve-tops. Cut contre front.’ Sew un sieutaera in heodctop. “From right side, pick up at aroun! front, taking & a6 fer every 3 rows. Mork 8-10 rons gerter-st, puiting in’ buttonosen #f sired, ani cast off on wrong side. Frog fastenings look goo! ee jeu gg2 put in a aipper. Sey, in sleeves, end noston out edges fer ararze” May bo linea with Jersey¥Ine 2 ot al centre back everyiand roa Su_gn | Sor phat a MORSE SWEATER? (D) Again use leaflet #2, but in stocking st unetl (the upper 4"=5" of body, when you let loose with any elaborate sheen, Solommpattern thet "takes Your fanoy. For additional colours, shorogn Zar doubled is fine. Eni with 3-4 rida of the darkest eclocs, and repeat the seme pattern for tops of sleeves. The dark colour joining at right angles is creat ad welon IOLAP, (2), whtoh oy musband cells Tenerlano, ay daughters t:¥s Dior, nd which my son and T just wear for warmth, With #11 needles work 10" in Pretty then 4 ross in Kl, Pl rib. Yext row, 11, Kl, pase, across Fry ton Elrow Plzon, thresd yarn through st, ahd drew tights See up. see ana tat, tt beautiful? Everyone will wear it a different'nay; boye. gizls, and perents. T ean nake one in well unter 2 hrs with ere yee Sheepsdown, Nica eventng! s work, Belly there you have S$ HEB? SD NN, tow you are om your owns Flsate let me know how you like it, 42 you have suggestions, or ae you Pood help. I deliberately keep ny knitting notes vague, Lecture testes tnd de alee piegins are as good as mine anyway, “But f have hed experience, dirootiange Ys ged to help with imotty problems if I'cen. “Far stiten tyerreich Gtrections, the stores are avash with "ooks®, Sects mote to Maconsin knitters, Thee of my sweaters - ell. in Sheepsdom ~ will be in the 40th Anmiel Exhibition of Wisconsin Crafts et the Monorial art Genter am Wilwaukee, Yov 3rd ~ Dee 1th, g'eb,freas. (I believe ani hope that there will te to of ay awesters dn Wooen's Dey for Nov, "60, Joutht then the Old Tow-Rope, and the Wore-than-Oriental-Splemten San A you can spot thes. The former is in 3-ply Sheepawcol, the latter in Fishernan Yorn ani 2oly Sheepskool. ther ebz ait for people with scoeos to the Oanedien edition of Winter 1960-61 MeGall!a Needlework, ‘the wonen's sweater,on p. 80-1 is one of mine, Fistornan Yorn The Opinionated Knitterniet by Elizabeth Zimmermann above: Elizabeth's grandson, Cully, swathed in Sheepsdown scarf, hac and Tomten. The scarf is just a strip of Prime Rib stitch with a few inches of K1, Pl at each end to prevent flare; the hat and Tomten are on pages 31 and 42 respectively: all knited by his ma. Caption on a similar posteard-photo: “Life would be so much easier if only mother would stop knieting.” The shot reminds me of Ralphie’ litle brother in Jean Shepherd's “A Christmas Story” ofis the Prime Rib Sweater. apposite: the dack Aran coat is the protorype that Elizabeth knitted in 1960 to celebrate Sheepsdown, Decades later, I knitted the pale grey version, which has a Set-In Sleeve Saddle Shoulder plus Snow Cuffs. Both versions have EZ’ After-Thought Pockets (iee page 114), hoods, wide garcer-stitch front borders and twisted-loop buttonholes. Elizabeth Zimmermann SM iiatmeal Elizabeth added occasional purl stitches in both the cream motif and the red accents; the black sctipe is purled on the second round. "Har, sweater and mittens knitted by Fltzabeth Zin metmmann Meg Swansen lensed Elizabeth Zimmermann KGMt | Elizabeth tried to find a commercial cquivalene to the beautiful, thick, hand- spun wool used for traditional Cowichan sweaters ~ to no avail, So she went to the Cambridge Woollen Mill, from whom she already obtained 2- and 3-ply Sheepswool, to ask the owner, Ed Bjorklund, to try to duplicate a skein of hhandspun she had. After considerable trial and error, Mr, Bjorklund came up with this beautiful, thick, gently-spun four-ply, undyed wool which Elizabech named Sheepsdown. In this Newsletter, she designed & number of garments specifically suited to her new wool. Instructions for the seriped hat shown opposite are on pages 30 - 31. Elizabeth named the sweater shown rere, SIWASH, which, if you trace the nain motif with your finger, is a word ou could write from those squiggles. rhe pattern chart is shown opposite. Sheepsdown was (and still is) available » four natural undyed shades and lizabech doubled the bright red and lack Canadian Québécoise woo! to ratch the weight of Sheepsdown, knitted by Blizabeth Zimmermann The Opinionates Knitter KGLeaflet 16, from Spring 1961, Cirowler Aran awoater or cardigans Second, and, it is to be hoped, Amproved edition. Fall 1965 ELIZABETH ZIMMERMANN box 5555 MILWAUKEE, Wis, 59211 Deer Knitter, Having decided that I greatly prefer MORIN Aran sweaters on circular needles, T think you may like to know how I do it. I keep the shape es simple aa possible, making « straight tube for tho body, and tapered tubes Zor sleeves. Arnholes are straight, with dropped shouléers. The body should be loose; @ useful size is about 42" around, and directions below ere for thia width. I take ¢ of thie - 10" - ami work out a pattern-sequence to fit. This will be repeated 4 tines around the sweater. For a cardigan, out down front. I shall not ask you to make the hated swstch, but © useful cup, wiih wll faniliarise you with the patterns, and give you a perfect GAUGE. GAUGE. 5 sts to 1%, measured over etooldug-stiten. BLACKBERRY. 3 ste. 6 rods. Ends 2 thr K into MATERIALS. 5 skeine 2-ply Sheopsnool in Green or Ostueal. ie Of at(KL b),PL, Ki b. the shove GAUGE. T knit loosely, and teke #5. 1 set of Sy back, front, back and front of next st (5 sts), turn, KS, turn, K5, turn, Kh, al 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and Sth sts over Ist st, K into beck of Ist st, KL b, Blackberry completed. Repeat from *, 1 16" and 124 circular needle of a size to give you Rnd 6.K1 b, K into front, 4 sock-needles for loner sleeves. QAE. With 16" needle cast on 108 sts. Join, and P 1 rnd. iow esteblish patterns, starting with rnd 1 in each: Ks, P2, Blackberry, 72, Ribbon Cable, P3, Sheepfold, P3, Ribbon Cable, F2, Blackberry, P2. You are halfway around your cap. Rep the foregoing. Position of designs is now established. Follow each one separstely. You will find RIBBON OABIE.9 sts. 12 rnds. thst Things Happon every 6th radj in between you cen re~ Winds 1 through 5. K9. lex. After 6-8" you will long to start the sveater, 50 Rnd 6. 61 2 sto on spare shspe cap to a point by decreasing 4 times somewhere on needle and bold in front of every rnd. When 4 sts resin, festen off. Cap may be work, K2, X2 from spare none too Clean, so block by washing. Moscure. If cap is needle, (R over L dst cable), narrower then hal? desired sweater-nidth, add a few P sts El, 81.2 sts on spare needle between patterns; if wider, take a few out. Or widen or and hold in beck of work,K2, narrow the Kd rib. Remember, 5 sts gives you 1" 12 from spere needle (i over R hat cable). SHELTER BODY, With 24" nosdle, cast on 216 sts for 42". Rndo_7 through 11. 9. Esteblish pattern-sequence 4 tines, Work straight to Rnd 12. L over R 4st cable, shoulder. Cast off. K4 ribs are at centre-fromt and KL, B over L dst cable. “beck, and at sides, giving the completed garment a nice Rep from". foldline. They are also guides for cutting armholes and centre-front, You may slope the shoulder-becks a little or shape neckefront, in each case over 36 sts, or 1/6 of totel width. influenced by my memory ofa German Chrismas at beginning of Advent. After Nikolaus there is sill plemty of time st Chrisemas in Bavaria and Austria, There, people get Santa for present-making, cookie-baking and all the preparations which us out of their hair on December 6th with ehe feast of Saint are, let fac it, she best and most satisfjing part of Christmas 50 officially inaugurates the Holy season at the Elizabeth ZimmermannSHENPFOLD. 22 ats. 24 rnds. ¥1.K 2nd st fron back, K Ast st, 32 both ate Off L needle together. SUERIES. Start st lover edge with 44 ste on 4, needles. (B twist), KB, K 2nd ot The fn midth permits, change to 16" needle.) Arrange fron front, K'lst st, a1 patterns as you like. "I had Sheepfold up the middle, doth sts off L needle flanked by Ribbon Cable, and all other ate in, except together (F twist). for 6X, Wine at underarm, Ine 1 st each side of thin rib every 6th rnd. This ties in nicely with your znds. (or @ roomier armhole, inc. every Sth rnd, or aven every 4th rnd. When sleeve plus ¢ body width equals ghirteleeve length, cast off. Don't make sleeves too ‘long ~- renonber the dropped shoulders. PL, B tw, K6, F tw, 22, #2, Btw, KA, F tw, 12. P3, B tw, 12, F tw, 13. Phy Btw, Fin, Kae 25, F tw, 5. 6, F tm, Kb, PS, F tw, XT URE da orice peel ee ee Bete. a besting-thread, Stitch with small machine-st twice PL; F tw, KO. gh gide of beating. Cut on basting-line. Sew up approx F tn, 120, 43 of top for each shoulder. Lap tops of alecves ove ne armholes snd hom neatly in place from right side. Press inside edges tovards sleeves and noaten with herringbone st, For turtle-neck, with 16" needle pick up all ete around neck and work’ 1-2" in rib or gerter-st. For ceréi~ gan, machine st and cut out neck-front and dom centres ctront. ‘With 24" needle, pick up 2 ats for every 3 rove Bp E front (K around neck) and down L front. Work 12 rows gerter-st, making 3-st buttonholes es desired. For B tr, KS, F tw, H1, Btw, K6, F tw, PL, 2, Btn, Ka, F tw, P2, K3, Btn, K2, F tw, P3. KA, Btw, F tw, Ph. 5, Btw, P5. Rb, Btw, Ph. K7, Btw, P3. nitred corner at neck=front, ino 2 sts at this point 21. KB; B tw, P. every 2nd rnd. Cast off in'P on right side, working 22. 9, B tw, PL. tightly across the back of the neck. 23. K16, B tw, 2h. E12. Rep fron #, This sweater 1s admittedly ornste, like many true srans. Originally the distinctive patterns belonged strictly to -ORTANT NOTE, The above certain tention eibbg Cen ren agp Fee fo RECN RTE, The rittonal, but Shoepfold is my own invention. Natural une CIRCULAR NEEDLES ONLY. bleached wool has a high lanolin-content, and 1s waters Coloured nent Tei, B £04 mashinzs: cletning renovoe it imedistely. If you use ‘the Oatnesl~ fe coerg Tool Ht wilt moed washing very rarely, indeed, for though you know it must be dirty, ‘t won't look it, #6. All rights Teserved, a oth gists gered. Yagrey Muisting Byabell The high point of the South German Christmas is early ane is enjoyed by the whole family. Everybody is dvesed in thei ‘ening on December 24h, preceding the actual (celebrated) best and the tec is alive and alight with candles, cookies, fit rth ofthe Chriachild. Sanna (sic) and bis sack of lot are nos and sine (on mentioned ~ he bad hit day three weeks ago with a big bog A festive meal will fallow afer which the children tumble good things lef on the doorstep or windowsill - it i the exhausted into bed. The adults can fnich off the evening in Zntstchld who brings the presents, and they are opened in she peace and consenonent auf §0 to a beautifel midnight Mass clown at five inthe evenings one present at atime so that cach —ifsueh is they lh The Opinionated Knitter‘The following was weitzen with a pale blue fele-tip pen in one of Elizabeth's journals (see page 40). She and my father — Gaffes, or The Old Man — ‘were on their annual camping trip 10 Canada with their Siamese cat, KLINE (always written caps). Their practice was to drive until the road all cumed to @ logging track and eventually ended alrogether at the water's edge; pack all camping gear into their canoe, head out to a remote island and see no other people for two weeks. ‘The Camp Jacket Elizabeth refers to is a version of her Modular Toren design; Lloie is wearing it on page 46. Mon. Sept 27 1971. It writes! 2 years ago we left this islands today we came ta it again. No one had been bere in between. Firewood was sill tacked by the fireplace we had buits, and a bundle of kindling ralled in a plastic bag had become wet because the bag had been rorm: perhaps by mice? On top af it lay as an offering to the island, the light blue fle sip pen which bad run quite dry when 1 was scribbling away at KWT (Knieting Without Tear). Today it writes again and I fel as if Thad come ful circle. The book it timidly but enshustasrically wrote is published ane Tin embarked on this, its succeson.* The light blue pen, by writing again, links them We have never camped so late in the year and anticipate considerable cold, damp and discomfort, balanced, we bope, by some Indian summer days. We lei she schoothouse early yesterday and rook some fast new expressways to Duluth where we Lunched, elegantty and cheerfil, in she Hotel Diluth’s Black Bear Room (1 wandering bear barged into the bar one icy winter’s day and lat his life thereby, Stufid, he now dominates the bar) “iohich became Knitter's Almanac). Elizabeth Zimmermann SS i