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F E B R U A RY / M A R C H 2 0 1 0

Est.
$
25
1879

canadian jeweller
magazine
the business of retailing jewellery

Travel Security
Keeping your guard
up – on the road

New Beginnings
An introduction to the long-awaited
Diamond Bourse of Canada

Undimmed Radiance
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25

Pearls are a classic staple

Exclusive
to every collection

Rolling with the Times

Enterprise
What’s new direct
from Geneva’s SIHH

Crime Report 2009 John de Jong of


How safe is JdJ Jewellery in Toronto
our industry?

PLUS:
ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

001.CJ_Cover.indd 1 2/11/10 2:53:44 PM


Siffari Ad layout 1/8/10 2:35 PM Page 1

Sterling Silver and Gold

Canada’s leading ring and


jewellery manufacturer

Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111
www.siffari.com email: contact@siffari.com
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_Siffari_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:29:21 AM


Unlock Your Imagination

Because quality craftsmanship is what you aspire to, we manufacture our findings to
the highest professional standards. Our job is to enhance your skills with the largest
selection, highest quality, and most innovative tools and findings available today.
Experience our dedication to you firsthand and unlock your imagination.

Stuller. The beauty of it all.™

Canadian contact:
866.815.5511 www.stuller.com

The DTC logo is a trade mark used under license from DTC.
For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_Stuller_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:33:57 AM


Celebrating a great partnership
Jewelers Mutual is proud to partner with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) to enhance the services each organization provides to
the Canadian jewellery industry. Together, Jewelers Mutual and CJA will work to assure the health and vitality of the jewellery industry and develop
better products and services for you.

Canadian Jewellers Association is the voice of the Canadian jewellery Jewelers Mutual was founded by jewellers in 1913 and remains
industry, providing leadership in ethics, education and communication. the leading insurer solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and the
Here are some of the benefits you will enjoy by becoming a member: jewellery industry. Here are just some of the benefits you’ll receive:
• Participate in consumer outreach branding program leading to • Customize your insurance policy whether you are a retailer,
increased jewellery sales. manufacturer, wholesaler, designer, or appraiser.
• Receive promotional rates on education courses such as JETS • Get superior claims service – 99.9% of our policyholders rate
(Jewellery Education Training System), including free access to our claim service as good or excellent.
JM University, and online security training course offered through
• Gain free access to Jewelers Mutual’s library of security
Jewelers Mutual.
training courses and materials.
• Receive extensive and evolving member benefit programs resulting
• Depend on an insurance company that is financially sound
in substantial cost savings.
and has been rated A+ Superior for 23 years.
• Benefit from CJA advocacy with all levels of government and learn
Contact us today for a free quote.
about new laws and regulations specific to our industry.
Become a member today by visiting www.canadianjewellers.com
and completing a membership application.

800-580-0942; www.canadianjewellers.com 800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca

For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_JewellersMutual_dps1Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:28:51 AM


N
O
W
IN
Q
U
ÉB
EC
J E W E L L E R TO D AY … H E R O TO M O R R O W !

Chipped stone. Lost ring. Damaged watch. Customers can be really hard on their jewellery!

Now your customers can insure their prized possessions with Personal Jewelry Insurance from
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery
and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States.

• Consumer materials available to you at no cost


• Easy online application for your customers
• Competitive rates
• Comprehensive coverage
• Repairs and replacements by customer’s preferred jeweller

So when your customer has a jewellery mishap, you can be the hero! With Personal Jewelry Insurance from
Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their jeweller of choice, for repairs or replacements.

To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with
your customers, visit www.JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411.

800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com

* Personal Jewelry Insurance not available in Québec.

E X C L U S I V E LY E N D O R S E D B Y

cjFebMar10_JewellersMutual_dps2Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:27:15 AM


Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 2/11/10 11:13 AM Page 1

The Annual E XCELLENCE iN

design
Award Ceremony & Reception

To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact
Olivier Felicio at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.

For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact


Dan Hare at dan@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6101.
Excellence In Design_NEW:Layout 1 2/11/10 11:13 AM Page 2

ENTER CANADIAN JEWELLER’S


EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN COMPETITION
DESIGNER ’ S NAME

COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION

ADDRESS CITY

PROVINCE POSTAL CODE

PHONE FAX

EMAIL ADDRESS

CATEGORY

TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )

Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)

ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.


AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO RIVE GAUCHE MEDIA .)

I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.

SIGNATURE

SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.

RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION


• Jewellery must have been designed and made in insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your • Winning entries and all information provided about
Canada. own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must theft or damage for the duration of the competition. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are Judges will then choose an overall winner in this purpose.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for each category. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-
diamonds. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
• One submission per designer, per category. a $25 fee for each package. Consideration will also be given to marketability.
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable the designer. To arrange for the return, please con-
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, tact a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for 7900.
WWW.CHRONOTECH.COM

Established 1879 febrUARY/march 2010 • vol. 131, no. 2


Andrea Hopson Guest Editor
Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com
Lucy Holden Associate Publisher | lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Carol Besler Editorial Consultant
Paul Aguirre Associate Editor | paul@rivegauchemedia.com
Danielle Ng-See-Quan Editorial Assistant | danielle@rivegauchemedia.com
Scott Jordan Art Director | scott@rivegauchemedia.com
Leslie Ross Designer | graphics@rivegauchemedia.com
Stacy Karjala Designer | material@rivegauchemedia.com
Jordan Martinez Production Manager | jordan@rivegauchemedia.com
Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration | finance@rivegauchemedia.com
Daniel Hare Administration Coordinator | dan@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Davide Bagnarol, Howard Grosfield, Sarah B. Hood,


Ron Hooper, Amber Khalen, Bonnie Siegler,
Clare Tattersall.

sales
Lucy Holden Associate publisher
tel .
(416) 203-7900 ext. 6117
email lucy@rivegauchemedia.com

Sarah Perkin ADVERTISING Sales


tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126
email sarah@rivegauchemedia.com

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING Sales


tel . (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122
email jeff@rivegauchemedia.com
ITALY'S
CIRCULATION PUBLICATION PARTNERS
FAVOURITE WATCH Garth Atkinson 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101
Pickering, Ontario, L1V 1A1
NOW KICKING OFF IN toll free 1-877-547-2246

CANADA email cj@publicationpartners.com

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106


Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3B8
DISTRIBUTED EXCLUSIVELY tel . (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

BY
Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507
Montreal, Quebec, H2N 2J2
tel . (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223
toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

Subscription Rates
Provider of high-quality findings Canada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. United States — one year, US$205. Foreign — one year US$205 (Subscriptions include Buyers’ Guide is-
sues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $25; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50
for over 35 years per subscription per year (Canada only).
Change of Address
email: cj@publicationpartners.com telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller c/o Publication Partners, 345 Kingston Road, Suite 101, Pickering, ON Canada L1V 1A1
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.

Toronto, Canada Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not

[416] 866-7402 the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication
may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration

www.bluepointfindings.ca under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller
and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such
material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.

Official magazine of JVC


For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 81

8 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 2/11/10 10:33:07 AM


An Ounce of Prevention
is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.

Arm yourself with knowledge and tools to protect your business.


Get your 2010 Crime Prevention Package:
• Access to a database on criminal activity • Alerts on jewellery crime in Canada
• Crime Prevention Manual CD • Access to JVC Security Library
• Crime Prevention Bulletins on effective security procedures

Sign up now at www.jewellerycrimecanada.ca or call 1-800-636-9536

Jewellers Vigilance Canada


An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the Canadian jewellery industry.
CRIME PREVENTION • RESOURCE PROTECTION • SAFETY AWARENESS

For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 81

1328 JVC ad1 122009.indd 1 12/21/09 4:19:07 PM


CJfebMar10_JVC_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:34:29 AM
table of
Contents
February/March
Features
34 Exclusive Enterprise
John de Jong gives us the insider perspective on his
perfect model for second-flooring retailing.

40 Undimmed Radiance
Taking a closer look at why pearls are still a big ticket item
with long-lasting value.

44 New Beginnings
After months of planning (and years of waiting),
the Diamond Bourse of Canada is finally here.

46 Rolling with the Times


Watch trends direct from the SIHH in Geneva. 46
50 How to Raise Prices
Thinking of increasing your prices? Tips on how, why
and when to do it.

62 Prevention is the Best Protection


What to know about your security before you hit the road.

66
Full Replacement
How the Internet can be one of your best insurance
tools yet.

70
Crime Report
An update on the industry’s crime rates and statistics.

34

10 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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Chamilia. Stronger than ever.
Beautiful as always.
Ranked among the fastest growing brands in the personalized jewelry category, Chamilia is expanding all across
Canada. The collection offers over 600 beautiful beads, fashioned to create endless jewelry combinations, each
as unique as the woman who wears it. Intricately designed in dazzling sterling silver, 14k gold, Swarovski® crystal,
colored stones and Italian Murano glass, Chamilia is brighter and warmer, in more stylish colors. It’s also why
customers return to their retailers 7 to 10 times a year to explore and create their own jewelry possibilities. With
Chamilia, you’re creating more than a sale, you’re creating a customer for a lifetime.

To become a Chamilia retailer or to learn about Chamilia retailer programs, our


2010 promotions and marketing materials, contact Chamilia at 1-800-495-0977.
Or email us at customerservice@chamilia.com

© Chamilia, Inc. 2009. All rights reserved.


®Swarovski AG. Made with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements.
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 81

CJfebMar10_M2Universal_Chamilia_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:35:07 AM


table of
Contents
February/March
56
Departments
14 Letter from the Guest Editor

16 Product Showcase

22
Who’s News
68 Star Watch
Remembering Harold Weinstein; New Grace Kelly Sparkling Statements.
collection.
73 What’s On
24
For The Record
GIA NY relocates; Hublot opens new Paris boutique;
Toywatch creates limited edition watch for Haiti relief. 74 Showcase

29 Stock Index
77 Marketplace

30 Mining News
81 Fax Back
All the happenings in the mining sector.

32
JVC’s Crime Report 82 Last Word
This is a true story: a jeweller recounts the day his life
changed forever.

54 Company Profile
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company.

56 Designer Profile
Ian Suade.

68

12 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

010-012.CJ_Contents.indd 12 2/11/10 1:20:31 PM


Diamonds are not shown to scale

O’Neill Diamonds Inc.


#622-736 Granville St. Phone: 604-909-0818
Vancouver, B.C Fax: 604-909-0272
V6Z 1G3 T-Free: 1866-9O’Neill(662-455) www.caratsmart.ca
For details, write #107 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_ONeillDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:36:49 AM


letterfromguesteditor

Design-focused
Retailing
I am delighted to serve as guest editor of this issue
by introducing custom jeweller and appointment-only
retailer John de Jong as the subject of this issue’s cover
story. I have known John as a colleague and as a friend for
18 years, and I have long admired his talent for both the
business and design side of the jewellery industry.
John de Jong is an international traveller and man of
great elegance and style who has done a remarkable and
impressive job of offering custom design jewellery. His
unique style, which involves the use of unique, beautiful and
often rare gems has opened up the world of jewellery to
a discerning clientele, particularly in Canada, where his
clients can discover the best of the world of jewellery. His
international lifestyle, including maintaining an office in
Switzerland, ensures that de Jong’s designs are continuously
fresh, exciting and leading-edge.
The cover story about John and his unique jewellery
business, on page 34 of this issue, offers insight into the degree
of commitment it takes to achieve success as a “second-floor”
retailer.

Andrea Hopson
Andrea Hopson
Vice-President, Tiffany & Co.
Guest Editor

14 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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LIFE HAS
ITS MOMENTS...

Spending Valentine’s Day where we first met

...MAKE THEM
UNFORGETTABLE

DESIGN YOUR UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS WITH PANDORA CHARMS, RINGS, NECKLACES, AND EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER AND 14K GOLD

PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM

U.S. Pat. No. 7,007,507 • © • All rights reserved


For details, write #108 on Free Info Page, page 81

CJ_Pandora_Feb2010_V2.indd 1 12/18/2009 11:25:15 AM

cjFebMar10_Crosby_Pandora_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:36:27 AM


productshowcase

Individual Expression
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been
an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers,
has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond
the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring
coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring
is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is
made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped
tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery,
and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality
control. For more information, write 124 on the Free Info
Card on page 81.

Special Collection: Liquid Silver


The luxury of sterling silver is launched in the new
Liquid Silver collection by PANDORA. Liquid Silver
is a collection of rings, earrings, bracelets, and is only
available at PANDORA stores and Shop-in-Shops. For
more information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on
page 81.

Pacific Urns
Pacific Urns has, in a short time become the largest
supplier of quality Urn Jewellery with distributors in
Canada, USA, United Kingdom and Australia. They have
also recently launched a complete Pet Line. Each Pacific
Urns design is available in all precious metals and with
or without diamonds. Each Jewellery Urn includes a gold
or silver chain to match your selection, a Cherry Wood
accent or burgundy display box, solid sterling silver
scoop to assist in filling, cleaning cloth to keep your
pendant looking its best, instructions on filling, sealing
and maintaining your pendant and an unconditional
lifetime warranty on your sterling silver chain. For more
information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

16 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

016-018.CJ_Product.indd 16 2/11/10 1:31:05 PM


smartSites it’s what consumers expect
Customized
Branding to
Support Your
Store or Group
Affiliation ANIMATED
CORNER
AD

eFlyer sign-up
for your Clients

ROTATING
SUPPLIER
World Class
BRAND
Design
FEATURES

PLUS

Support for

Customer
smartSite Satisfaction
technology can Surveys
be added to Contest Entries
your existing & other online
site. Forms.

Take this smartSite out for a test drive at www.wrightsjewelry.ca

smartSites start at $70/month A one-time $250 setup-upgrade fee applies.


Domain registration @39.95 per year.

3 ways to get started: Call 1-647-722-5676 or


Sign-up at www.openbluestores.com or
Download this form at www.bit.ly/smartsites and fax it to us.
Add these powerful options:
 eFlyers ($25/month)
Put your store in the same league as national brands. Your customers can sign-up to receive monthly
eFlyers created by us to promote your preferred suppliers. Or create your own eFlyer, with your own
selection of products (available for additional charge).
Got your own e-mail list to start? That’s great. We’ll help you build it.
 Surveys & Forms ($15/month)
Add customer satisfaction surveys, contest entries and other forms to your site. Forms can even be
linked to coupons or other promotional material once the customer completes the form. An introductory
price of $15/month includes a customer satisfaction survey and a gift certificate/gift card purchase form.

Office: 647.722.5676 Did You Know?


Mobile: 647.501.4367 - OpenBlue runs the largest network of
retail jewellery sites in Canada?
Fax: 267.295.7313 - OpenBlue has more Canadian Diamonds
accounts@openbluenetworks.com than BlueNile?
For details, write #109 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_OpenBlueNetworks_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:37:23 AM


productshowcase

Personal Jewelry Insurance


Chipped stone. Lost ring. Damaged watch. Customers
can be hard on their jewellery! Now your customers can
insure their jewellery with Jewelers Mutual Insurance
Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively
in protecting jewellery and jewellery businesses in
Canada* and the United States. With insurance from
Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their
jeweller of choice, for repairs or replacements. (*Personal
Jewelry Insurance is not available in Québec.) Exclusively
endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association and the
American Gem Society. For more information, write 127
on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Diemmeffe
Chic, classic, outstanding enriching and versatile jewel
mosaic designs in 18kt gold and precious stones from
JOMARK, Canada’s premier distributor of European
gold jewellery since 1989. Offering an extensive range of
gold jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion,
guarantees high quality luxury jewellery delivered across
Canada. Acquire luxury jewellery from the unsurpassed
gold distributor, JOMARK For more information, write
128 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Chamilia - Your Life. Your Style.


Chamilia offers a dazzling selection of over 600 beads
in .925 silver, 14k gold, Italian Murano glass, Swarovski
Crystal, coloured stones and an exclusive Disney
collection, all designed to make a lasting impression.
With over 30 new designs introduced each quarter, it’s
no wonder customers come back to Chamilia’s retailers
again and again. Discover the World of Chamilia at
chamilia.com. For more information, write 129 on the
Free Info Card on page 81.

18 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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The heart & soul
of wedding bands

www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4
Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar_AtlanticEngraving_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:37:39 AM


productshowcase

Siffari
A tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature
Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has
combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in
this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone
gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and
.61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write
130 on the Free Info Card on page 81.

Mirage
There are many ways to describe Nova’s new
tourmaline and chalcedony rings. A few words that
come to mind are stylish, trendy, and funky. Ranging
from 3 carats of black and white diamonds to over
6 carats meshed with the breathtaking centre gems,
these rings are unique and tremendously detailed.
For more information call Nova @ (416) 868-6682.
For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card
on page 81.

Stuller
Get a luxurious look for less with this freshwater pearl
ensemble from Stuller! The lengthy 38-inch necklace
creates a dramatic, stylish look featuring 12.00-13.00MM
Freshwater Cultured White Coin pearls and sterling
silver. The earrings, also showcasing Freshwater White
Coin pearls and sterling are the perfect compliment to
complete this duo. For more information, write 132 on
the Free Info Card on page 81.

20 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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Direct Importer and manufacturer of fine quality diamonds

GIA + AGS CERTIFIED


From 0.30 ct - 5.00 ct in all shapes, colors, and qualities
Melle from 0.005 ct to 0.25 ct in all shapes
GIA certified fancy yellows from 0.50 ct - 5.00 ct
Overnight Shipping available
Memo available upon approved credit
Credit card payment available

620 Cathcart, Suite 656, Montreal, Que H3B 1M1


Tel.: (514) 393-3426 -Fax: (514) 393-8607 -info@internaldiamonds.ca -www.internaldiamonds.ca
For details, write #111 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_FiveStarDiamonds_Eternal_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:38:59 AM


Find out who is
making headlines in
the jewellery industry.

Grace Kelly Lives On president of Peoples Jewellers in 1975, but


Van Cleef and Arpels has teamed up with chafed at corporate restrictions. After a heart
the Victoria and Albert Museum to bring attack in 1976, he left retail to become a man
the beauty, glamour and style of Hollywood of leisure, but soon opened a small coloured
actress and Princess of Monaco Grace Kelly to gemstone and appraisal business “just to keep
London, England, this Spring. Called Grace busy.” In 1990, after working behind the scenes
Kelly: Style Icon, the exhibit will display for many years on boards and committees, he
outfits from Kelly’s fi lms, the outfit she wore served as president of the Canadian Jewellers
when she met her future husband Prince Association. He was a founding member of
Rainier, her haute couture gowns from the Jewellers Vigilance Canada, the first recipient
1960s and 1970s and, of course, her jewels. of the Canadian Jeweller magazine Hall of
The legendary French jeweller Van Cleef and Harold Weinstein Fame Award and a proud member of the
Arpels will support the Victoria and Albert 24 Karat Club. Leaving his business in the
Museum by sponsoring their exploration into Harold Weinstein Remembered capable hands of long-time associates Duncan
the style of the inimitable screen siren. The Harold Weinstein, fisherman, jeweller, Parker and Anne Neumann, he retired for
exhibit will run from April 17 until September appraiser emeritus and a wise friend with a good in 1997 to spend more time up North
26, 2010. great heart died on January 8th, 2010. Harold fishing. His daughters enriched his life:
was born into a trade that has changed greatly Susan, a writer and gifted commentator on
over the years. In Northern Ontario, his the human condition, and Ellen. Ellen was
father sold pocket watches to miners out of at the root of another of Harold’s great loves,
a pack on his back. Today, jewellery is sold the community called L’Arche Daybreak,
over the Internet. As a child, Harold started where he canvassed selflessly to support
in the business by sweeping the floors of his developmentally-handicapped people of this
father’s Sudbury store on the weekends and community. For anyone wanting to remember
after school. He developed an eye for detail Harold, a gift to Daybreak (larchedaybreak.
working at the watchmaker’s bench and a love com) would make Claire happiest. He will
and understanding of jewellery. With his wife, always be remembered as a pioneer of the
Claire, by his side (in her own right, the most Canadian jewellery industry, forever living on
savvy fashion jewellery buyer anywhere) Harold in the legacy he built. — Anne Neumann
built the four-store guild chain called Gordon
Jewellers. He was one of the first independent IDI Teams Up With All India
American Gem Society jewellers in Canada. The Israel Diamond Institute Group of
At a time when storeowners were telling their Companies has joined forces with the All
salespeople to sell jewellery “just because it India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation to
sparkles” Harold encouraged his people to create areas of cooperation between the two
take gemmological courses and even offered to organizations. C. Vinod Hayagriv, Chairman of
pay for most of them; he was an innovator. In All India Gems and Jewellery Trade Federation,
1970, he was the first to decorate his stores in a and Eli Avidar, ID managing director, signed a
single, themed colour. He banned point of sale Memorandum of Understanding at a ceremony
displays from his counters and gift ware from in Jaipur, India. The MOU calls for an ongoing
his showcases. He bought his diamonds and exchange of information between the two
mountings separately. A diamond customer parties, an analysis of joint interests to protect the
could order by weight, quality or price point. industry, a joint educational effort and will grant
These things that are so common now, Harold each organization honourary memberships in all
Grace Kelly
was doing 40 years ago. He became a vice functions and events each organization holds.

22 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

022-023.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 22 2/11/10 10:37:16 AM


who’snews

New Designer On The Block Rapaport Resigns


Steve Madden is set to add the title ‘jewellery from World Diamond Council
designer’ to his resume. The American footwear Martin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport
designer has teamed up with Lucas Design Group, resigned from the World Diamond
International to create and market a women’s Council at the beginning of February. In a
fashion jewellery collection. The collection, letter to the World Diamond Council, Rapaport
which will hit stores in Fall 2010, will be sold explained his reasons for his resignation,
at higher-end department stores, specialty due to the industry’s continuing struggle to
retailers, Steve Madden stores and online. deal with the current situation involving the
Kimberley Process violations in Zimbabwe.
Rachel Bilson’s Bracelet Benefit In his letter, Rapaport said, “Severe human
Inspired after her trip to Botswana and South rights violations including murder, rape and
Africa in December to learn more about enslavement have taken place in the diamond
improvements made to the diamond mining fields of Marange, Zimbabwe. These Marange
industry, actress Rachel Bilson decided to blood diamonds have been imported into
create a bracelet to benefit the Diamond the cutting centers with KP certificates.
Empowerment Fund, a non-profit that supports They have then been polished and set into
education in Africa. The bracelet, which retails jewelery and sold to retailers with WDC
for $100 with $20 from the sale of each piece System of Warranty statements. Marange blood
going to the Fund to build student housing diamonds are now in the diamond distribution Cindy Crawford
at the CIDA City Campus, a university in system and are being sold to consumers. The
Johannesburg, is made of brown leather cords WDC has not only failed to notify retailers of Cindy Crawford Seals it with a Kiss
with a sparkly round diamond framed by a the situation, but on January 27, 2009, issued Cindy Crawford is launching an affordable
twisted gold charm. a false statement claiming. “WDC’s System 40-piece jewellery collection in April. The
of Warranties: Assurance of the legitimate collection, called One Kiss, will be exclusive
source of the diamonds.” Rapaport added, to JCPenney, and pieces will range in price
“Continued trading of blood diamonds by from $79 to $299. Described as simple yet
the jewelry industry under the guise of WDC sophisticated, the collection will feature
legitimization enables, empowers and provides pieces made of sterling silver, gemstones and
financial support to individuals, companies diamonds inspired by the henna symbol that
and governments that perpetuate severe means “kiss” when translated.
human rights abuses in the diamond sector.
I am shocked that the WDC continues to New WJA President
cover up human rights abuses.” The Women’s Jewelry Association has
appointed Kendra Bridel Weinman as the
Drummond Elected to JFC Board WJA incoming president. Weinman succeeds
Patrick Drummond, VP Sales and Marketing Yancy Weinrich, Luxury by JCK and JCK
at Jeweler’s Mutual Insurance Company, has Las Vegas. Weinman, president of Lusciouss
been appointed to the Jewelers for Children International, has over 11 years of experience
board of directors. Drummond will serve on in the jewellery industry, including positions
the JFC committees and assist with fund- at Montblanc and Taché. Newly elected board
raising and program development during his members include: Ruth Batson, American
three-year term. Drummond has worked at Gem Society; Patti Geolat; Geolat, Companies;
Jeweler’s Mutual since 2006 and has more than Anne Valentzas, Leo Schacter Diamonds; and
16 years of insurance experience. Denise Shaffer, CTP, Sterling Jewelers. [CJ]
Rachel Bilson

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 23

022-023.CJ_WhosNews_re.indd 23 2/11/10 10:38:00 AM


news | trends | events
GIA NY to Relocate to our commitment to the New York and partnership that will see the Canadian
International Gem Tower U.S. marketplace.” Added Gary Barnett, Jewellers Association exclusively endorsing
The Gemological Institute of America president of Extell Development Company, Jewelers Mutual’s insurance products while
(GIA) has announced plans to relocate “This prestigious Institute clearly recognizes Jewelers Mutual has agreed to support the
the GIA New York Laboratory to Extell’s the value the development brings to New CJA’s educational program and funding
International Gem Tower (IGT), located York’s Diamond District, and we’re thrilled initiatives. The two companies have also
at 47th and Fifth. The GIA has signed to have them on board.” agreed to share information on their
a contract to purchase an entire floor areas of expertise, including business
in the tower, which is currently under Jewelers Mutual Insurance and management, insurance issues and retail
construction and set for completion in 2012, Canadian Jewellers Association strategies.
as reported in the previous issue of CJ. “We Forge Partnership
look forward to relocating our New York Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company Telep Becomes North American
Laboratory operations into a single floor of and the Canadian Jewellers Association Distributor for Riana
the IGT,” says Donna Baker, president and have joined forces in an effort to enhance Telep Distributors Ltd., a Winnipeg,
CEO of GIA. “This purchase will increase the quality of services each provides to Manitoba-based giftware distributor, has
our efficiency and help GIA manage its the Canadian jewellery industry. The announced a new distribution agreement
long term costs. The move will reinforce organizations have formed a strategic with Riana Designer Jewellery as exclusive
distributor in North America. Riana’s
jewellery line is made from stainless steel,
platinum, gold and crystal and includes
necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and
bangles.

Birks & Mayors Reports Holiday


Sales Increase
Birks & Mayors Inc. has announced that
net sales for the period from November 1
to December 26 increased by 6%. Sales for
the holiday season were US$69.7-million,
compared to US$66.0-million for the same
period in 2008. The company also reports
that while comparable stores sales in the
United States decreased by 6% comparable
store sales in Canada increased by 6%.

Zale CEO Resigns


Zale Corporation has undergone major
restructuring again, with the mass exodus
of key members of its executive team.
CEO Neal Goldberg, William Acevedo,
chief stores officer and Mary Kwan, chief
Hublot Opens Second Paris Boutique merchandising officer have all resigned.
Hublot has announced it will open a second boutique in Place Vendome, Paris, Some remaining members of the executive
the heart of the luxury goods world, in spring 2010. The opening is part of the team have assumed additional titles and
company’s developing network of single-brand boutiques. Other openings as responsibilities. The company’s current
part of the expansion are planned for 2010, including locations on Madison president, Theo Killion, has been appointed
Avenue in New York and Bal Harbour. Hublot currently has 20 boutiques interim CEO, while Gil Hollander, executive
worldwide, including stores in Geneva, Moscow, Shanghai, Dubai and Istanbul. vice-president, has taken on the additional
role of chief merchandising officer.

24 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

024-028.CJ_FTR_re1.indd 24 2/11/10 11:52:33 AM


Finished Jewellery & Loose Diamonds
Nova Diamonds Inc.
221 Victoria St. Lower Level
Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5B 1V4
Phone: 416-868-6682 Fax: 416-868-0666
For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_MirageNovaDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 11:39:33 AM


Harry Oppenheimer Museum of De Beers, which operates two diamond Gemmological Commission, created the
to Host New Exhibition mines in Canada, into the Code means that Ruby Day initiative, and says her motivation
The Harry Oppenheimer Diamond Museum all operating diamond mines in Canada was to ensure that gemologists, jewellers
will host a new exhibition of diamond are members of the Code. The Code and other industry professionals have an
jewellery designed by members of the Israeli was established in 2002 as a system for opportunity to disucss recent gemstone
Diamond Industry. The exhibit showcases tracking Canadian diamonds from mine to research and offer gemological updates at
the works of 25 contemporary jewellery consumer. It is endorsed by the Competition CIBJO congresses. “The pace of events in the
designers, each of whom was given three Bureau of Canada and the World Jewellery jewellery industry is increasing from year
carats of diamonds by various Israeli Confederation. to year. While in the past a new gemstone
diamond companies, along with instructions treatment came around every few years or
to use the diamonds in their designs. When CIBJO To Hold “Ruby Day” so, it seems that today they are becoming
the exhibition concludes, the jewellery CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, more proliferate,” she says.
will be sold. The exhibition is curated by began a new tradition at its 2010 congress –
Batia Wang, head of the Jewelry Designers the organization of a gemmological mini- ArtCAM Announces
section of the Community of Designers and conference, this year named “Ruby Day.” New CAD CAM Software
Yehuda Kassif, art director of the Harry This mini-conference will be an integral ArtCAM announces the release of the
Oppenheimer Museum. part of this and future CIBJO congresses. company’s new CAD CAM software. The
Ruby Day was dedicated to presentations, company’s range now includes ArtCAM
De Beers Canada Joins Voluntary discussions and research relating to the Express, ArtCAM Insignia, ArtCAM Pro,
Code of Conduct ruby, and took place on February 19 at the ArtCAM Jewel Smith. This new software
De Beers Canada has joined the Voluntary International Congress Centre at the Messe allows users to quickly and easily design
Code of Conduct for Authenticating Muenchen. Renowned Italian gemologist Dr. and manufacture 2D and 3D models, import
Canadian Diamond Claims. The inclusion Margherita Superchi, president of the CBIJO or create vectors and manufacture 2D or
2.5D products from those vectors, design
and manufacture 3D models or 3D sculpted
reliefs and design and manufacture highly
intricate personalized, custom jewellery or
new complete lines.

Jewelers Mutual Offers


New Personal Insurance
Jewellery consumers and retailers in
Canada can breathe a sigh of relief as they
can now protect their possessions under
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s
Personal Jewelry Insurance program.
Jewelers Mutual, the only company solely
dedicated to insuring jewellery and the
jewellery industry, extends their Personal
Jewelry Insurance plan to both policy and
non-policy holders. The program provides
customers with repair and replacement
coverage, assures that branded jewellery
will be repaired and replaced with the
same brand and allows consumers to have
their repair or replacement work done by
Kimberlight Acquires Rights for Patented Diamond Cut their preferred jeweler. Additional benefits
Kimberlight Brands Inc. has acquired the international rights to market and sell that the Personal Jewelry Insurance policy
a proprietary, patented diamond cut with 111 facets, designed by Mike Botha offers customers are affordable worldwide
of Embee Diamond Technologies, Ltd. “Total brilliance and pretty configuration coverage, an accessible online application,
characterize this cut, one of my proudest accomplishments in a career that no cost for jewellers to participate and
spans 40 years,” says Botha. Kimberlight is debuting the diamond through Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
paced, small-lot offers and personal purchasing opportunities. Graduate Gemologists on staff to assist
jewellers and consumers.

26 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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fortherecord

Campbell Bridges Commemorated


Three major gem and jewellery
organizations commemorated industry
icon Campbell Bridges during a
memorial ceremony during the American
Gem Trade Association Gem Fair
(AGTA) in Tucson, February 2-7. Bridges
was well-known for his discovery of
Tanzanite, his advocacy for improving
working conditions and security
at mines, and his concern for the
environment. The International Colored
Gemstone Association, the AGTA and
the Gemological Institute of America paid
tribute to the late Scottish gemologist
at an event at the Marriott University
Park Hotel. Bridges was killed during an
altercation in Kenya. He is survived by
his wife Judith, his son Bruce and
daughter Laura.
MCD Pearls SQ:Layout 1 2/25/09 10:31 AM Page 1

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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 27

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Thomas Sabo Brings Wild, Whimsical Collections
and Watches For Spring
Thomas Sabo’s sterling silver Spring/Summer 2010 collection
is filled to the brim with a mix of colours, symbols and
versatility; all inspired by the idea of an exotic journey. The
seasonal line includes pieces characterized by an Under
the Sea adventure – including flashy cocktail rings with
seaweed-like details and pendants (sharks, deepsea divers
and submarines, oh my!) that can be mixed and matched
with charm connectors. The Rebel at Heart jewellery evokes
a rough-edged “skull ‘n’ bones” attitude mixed with a bit
of glam – think black cubic zirconia and sterling silver. The
Classic line goes tribal, with lots of turquoise, smoky quartz
and feather- and 70s-inspired shapes.

CJ recently reported on the launch of Thomas Sabo’s watch


collection in the Canadian market. The watches are now
available for purchase – and the three ranges in the collection
– Rebel at Heart, It Girl and Classic – offer a sophisticated
combination of fashion-forward elements coupled with
Thomas Sabo’s style and attention to detail, right down to the
watch face, band details and materials used.

PANDORA Opens First Toronto will feature a signature selection from all six and Sea, Light and Fun. Beauty Drops bring
Retail Store; Introduces Layering Victorinox Swiss Army product categories: water forth in a purifying role, so the pieces
Collections cutlery, Swiss Army knives, timepieces, travel in this collection focus on droplet-like crystal
PANDORA has opened its first retail gear, fashion and fragrance. The store has cuts and wave-like shapes and movement. The
store in downtown Toronto, located in the been entirely merchandised to reflect the Marina Blue collection is inspired by coral
Royal Bank Plaza underground shopping Victorinox Swiss Army brand. The location reefs and shells – bright pieces with textures
concourse. The Denmark-based company is of the pop-up store is Keir Fine Jewellery, a created from red- and blue-coloured crystals.
known for its customizable charm bracelet local retailer that carries Victorinox Swiss Sea, Light and Fun pieces are just that –
and versatile jewellery collections that Army timepieces and Swiss Army knives, playful, and inspired by the creatures of the
include more than 3,000 designs. Looking and will be restored to its original state sea. Pieces like the Elvis and Erika pendants
ahead to spring, PANDORA has also created as Keir Fine Jewellery after the Olympics. (a crystal-covered crab and water droplet,
customizable, stackable collections for “Having a presence in Whistler during the respectively) and other accessories inspired
layering. The Moments collection includes Games makes a lot of sense for our brand,” by beach games characterize this collection.
sterling silver and/or leather cord bracelets said Victorinox Swiss Army president
with PANDORA’s signature gold, silver, Rick Taggart. “Victorinox Swiss Army is Swarovski’s also going through the Looking
glass or eco-friendly wood bead charms; internationally recognized and our quality Glass with a line inspired by Tim Burton’s
the LovePods collection includes 18K gold products are designed for people who remake of Alice in Wonderland, set to hit
rings with precious gemstones; and the appreciate active lifestyles.” theatres in March. In collaboration with
Ring Upon Ring collection includes 14K Disney, the collection of luxe, limited-
gold and sterling silver rings. The common Swarovski’s Spring Bling edition jewellery includes a Sparrow rose
denominator in these collections is the Water is a huge symbolic influence in gold necklace – worn by Alice in the film, in
layering effect, to create an infinite number Swarovki’s Spring/Summer 2010 line. This fact – as well as other necklaces and bracelets
of unique styles. is surely a trend we’ll continue to see more with cupcake, teapot, heart, playing card
of, due to the basic element’s fluid form, and Cheshire Cat charms, to name a few –
Victorinox Swiss Army Opens reflective surface, and gleaming qualities – all encrusted with crystals and diamonds.
Whistler Village Pop-Up Store all characteristics that play perfectly into the There’s also a White Rabbit pendant,
Victorinox Swiss Army, has opened a brand creative design and functionality of jewellery. complete with mini pocket watch –the watch
pop-up store in Whistler Village for the Swarovski’s Spring/Summer 2010 line has doesn’t run, however, so you’ll have to ensure
months of February and March. The store three variations – Beauty Drops, Marina Blue you’re not late for a very important date.

28 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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fortherecord

Toywatch Canada Contributes


to Haiti Relief Efforts
Toywatch Canada and its retailers are
stock index
donating 30% of their sales of 100 each of Last Quarter Market
Company Name Stock Exchange Price Price % 52-Week 52-Week Revenue P/E Cap
four limited-edition watch styles to Doctors Symbol 12/04/09 01/12/10 Change High Low ($Millions) Ratio ($Millions)
Without Borders Canada. It is part of an
initiative for relief efforts in Haiti, following Precious Metals
the disastrous earthquake there in January. Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM TSX $66.470 $55.710 -16.19% $77.320 $50.800 $174.6 135.79 8,718.00

The limited-edition watches – the Neon Alamos Gold AGI TSX $12.380 $12.210 -1.37% $14.200 $7.250 $42.7 28.09 1,329.00
Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $43.650 $38.800 -11.11% $47.520 $25.080 $1,140.0 30.47 10,903.00
style, in white, black, dark gray and purple – Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $45.100 $38.310 -15.06% $50.530 $32.690 $2,102.0 N/A 37,657.00
retail for $300. According to Toywatch, the Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $39.840 $33.080 -16.97% $42.690 $15.670 $214.7 26.15 8,417.00

Canadian government will match all funds Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $14.250 $14.020 -1.61% $15.890 $8.510 $83.0 29.22 5,610.00
First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $81.590 $90.490 10.91% $100.320 $21.010 $527.5 N/A 7,107.00
contributed by February 12, 2010 to specific Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX NYSE $79.870 $76.280 -4.49% $90.550 $21.160 $4,144.0 278.4 31,412.00
organizations. Gammon Gold GAM TSX $12.080 $10.100 -16.39% $13.190 $6.150 $52.8 117.78 1,256.00
Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $14.620 $12.320 -15.73% $15.880 $8.100 $948.3 28.48 8,684.00
Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $44.660 $38.820 -13.08% $48.370 $32.360 $696.7 24.11 28,443.00
Argen and Watier Announce Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $11.120 $9.730 -12.50% $13.250 $8.060 $351.9 67.07 4,145.00
Distribution Agreement Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $19.240 $15.090 -21.57% $21.950 $7.710 $260.4 109.13 5,553.00
Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $12.550 $16.310 29.96% $18.490 $3.200 $9.5 N/A 6,171.00
Argen Corporation of San Diego, California Kinross Gold K TSX $21.560 $18.610 -13.68% $25.220 $16.520 $595.2 N/A 12,948.00
and Watier Findings of Vancouver have Lundin Mining LUN TSX $4.700 $4.520 -3.83% $5.180 $0.690 $192.1 N/A 2,620.00

announced an agreement that will see Newmont Mining NMC TSX $55.000 $47.220 -14.15% $59.600 $42.540 $2,049.0 24.69 21,319.00
Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.460 $3.140 -9.25% $3.700 $1.210 $132.3 21.93 912.00
Watier Findings buy and distribute gold Pan American Silver PAA TSX $27.250 $23.810 -12.62% $28.730 $16.190 $119.5 N/A 2,077.00
and platinum metal products. The products PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.610 $3.420 31.03% $3.890 $0.720 $0.1 N/A 476.00
Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $82.220 $75.130 -8.62% $90.300 $38.321 $103.3 125.89 6,218.00
will consist of casting grains in 10k, 14k Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $15.300 $16.930 10.65% $18.410 $6.280 $95.3 39.31 3,908.00
and 18k in white, yellow, green, and russian Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $17.150 $15.840 -7.64% $18.360 $7.260 $76.7 93.83 5,405.00
red, platinum, palladium, as well as 14k Southern Copper Corp. PCU NYSE $33.610 $30.570 -9.04% $36.980 $12.600 $1,151.8 61.06 25,985.00
Taseko Mines Ltd. TGB AMEX $3.980 $4.800 20.60% $5.650 $0.750 $44.8 22.05 917.00
and 18k palladium mixes. All products will Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $36.550 $39.740 8.73% $42.780 $3.350 $2,524.0 28.4 23,395.00
be distributed out of the Watier offices in Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $12.310 $13.760 11.78% $16.500 $3.480 $126.7 488.67 1,915.00

Vancouver. Joe Rosen, general manager Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $13.570 $11.290 -16.80% $15.000 $8.370 $336.9 23.96 8,278.00

of Argen’s Jewellery Metals Division, says


GemStones
that he is “excited at the prospect of having Anglo American plc AAUKY OTC $21.350 $19.900 -6.79% $23.550 $6.210 $9,292.0 12.47 52,400.00

another distributor marketing [my] product Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.130 $0.090 -30.77% $0.150 $0.050 $0.0 4.75 8.00
BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $75.270 $74.720 -0.73% $82.740 $33.090 N/A 37.04 125,468.00
in Canada, especially one with a strong Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.075 $0.070 -6.67% $0.110 $0.025 $0.9 N/A 3.00
broad-based clientele and product line, as Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.310 $0.300 -3.23% $0.395 $0.100 N/A 30.51 23.00
Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.180 $0.190 5.56% $0.250 $0.075 N/A N/A 7.00
Watier Findings possesses.” Adds Roland Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $4.090 $3.650 -10.76% $4.680 $1.180 62.3 97.25 2,572.00
Watier, owner of Watier Findings, “This Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.190 $10.960 7.56% $13.280 $2.190 $82.4 N/A 839.00

agreement allows us to pursue seamless Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.370 $2.430 2.53% $3.310 $0.730 $0.0 N/A 154.00
Moydow Mines Intl. Inc. MOY TSX $0.780 $0.850 8.97% $1.000 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 51.00
distribution of casting alloys, to complement Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $1.630 $2.260 38.65% $4.650 $0.460 0.3 N/A 184.00
our current product line of over 5,000 items Rio Tinto plc (ADR) RTP NYSE $207.900 $212.980 2.44% $240.430 $80.460 N/A N/A 53,085.00

we currently carry.” Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.100 $0.130 30.00% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 8.00
Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.095 58.33% $0.120 $0.035 N/A N/A 8.00
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.095 $0.105 10.53% $0.290 $0.085 N/A N/A 35.00
NWT Holds Diamond Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.270 $0.590 118.52% $0.730 $0.080 N/A N/A 155.00
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.100 11.11% $0.215 $0.070 N/A N/A 7.00
Industry Showcase Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $28.220 $28.690 1.67% $31.960 $11.820 N/A 49.87 138,573.00
A four-day diamond industry showcase in the
Jewellers & Retailers
Northwest Territories took place February 1-4
Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.950 $0.960 1.04% $1.800 $0.200 N/A N/A 11.00
at Canada’s Northern House. Top experts were Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $31.780 $35.300 11.08% 36..61 $11.000 $381.4 20.52 2,535.00
on hand to educate and inform their peers and Sears Canada SCC TSX $23.520 $25.500 8.42% $26.280 $17.050 $1,309.0 13.56 2,744.00

the public about diamonds, the official gem of Signet Group SIG NYSE $26.690 $27.430 2.77% $29.070 $5.910 $613.7 N/A 2,677.00
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $41.510 $41.770 0.63% $47.015 $16.700 $598.2 22.58 5,182.00
the NWT which accounts for more than 50% Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $52.240 $52.920 1.30% $55.200 $46.250 $99,411.0 15.03 204,103.00
of the territory’s GDP. The NWT is the third Zale Corp. ZLC NYSE $4.960 $2.510 -49.40% $8.510 $0.890 $329.2 N/A 80.00

largest producer of rough cut diamonds in the


Commodities
world, and has the world’s first government- Gold COMX $1,095.000
sponsored diamond certification program, Silver COMX $17.070
Platinum NYME $1,530.700
allowing NWT diamonds to be tracked from Palladium COMX $453.700
mine to retailer. [CJ] *This selection of securities is not to be interpreted as a solicitation and companies are not endorsed by Rive Gauche Media.

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 29

024-028.CJ_FTR_re1.indd 29 2/11/10 1:40:35 PM


New Gold Revises 2010 Outlook Alberta Securities Commission monetary incentives if they managed to
New Gold Inc. has increased its 2010 outlook Rules After Gold-Quest Scheme recruit new investors. The firm operated
by approximately 10%-20% amid The Canadian victims of Gold-Quest from June 2006 until the U.S. Securities
“better-than-expected” fourth quarter International Corp. are one step closer and Exchange Commission shut it down
results. The intermediate gold producer to justice after the Alberta Securities in May 2008.
with operating assets in the U.S., Mexico Commission ruled the company illegally
and Australia, and development projects in distributed securities in Alberta. The ASC Century Mining to Reopen
Canada and Chile, increased production said Gold-Quest ran “both a classic Ponzi Val d’Or Site
by 41% in the fourth quarter and set a new scheme and a classic pyramid scheme.” Century Mining is set to reopen its
annual gold production record, the company Approximately 2,940 investors in Canada Lamaque gold project in Val d’Or, QC The
announced in January. New Gold Inc. and abroad were bilked of US$29-million, Canadian gold producer plans to spend over
exceeded its 2009 production estimate of including 412 people in Alberta who lost $100-million over the length of the project,
270,000 ounces to produce 300,000 ounces, about US$2-million. The ASC hearing will create over 250 new jobs and commit a
and has revised its 2010 production forecast. panel found that personnel of Gold-Quest significant investment in the historic
It estimates it will produce 360,000 ounces of lured investors with the promise of 87.5% mining town. The company plans to
gold in 2010. returns from foreign currency trading and turn on the power at the site in late January,
re-open the underground in February and
begin the stockpiling of ore in March, all
Mining at Max Resource Corp.’s Crowsnest gold project while upgrading the crusher facilities at the
Val d’Or site. Century Mining expects to
produce approximately 45,000 ounces of
gold in 2010 and is expected to reach
commercial production in 2011 with an
output of approximately 60,000 ounces
a year.

Canadian Mining
at Bullard Pass
Canadian Mining Company Inc. has been
given the green light to move forward
with development at its Bullard Pass
Gold Project in Yavapai County, Arizona.
Following a detailed qualification process,
the exploration and development company
has received the necessary permits from the
Arizona State Land Department and the
United States Department of the Interior
Bureau of Land Management.

Barrick Sues Goldcorp


BC Provincial Government To Halt Flathead Valley Exploration The struggle between Goldcorp Inc. and
BC Lieutenant-Governor Steven L. Point announced in his Throne Speech of Barrick Gold Corporation for ownership of
Feb. 9, 2010 that the province of British Columbia intends to enter a partnership the El Morro mining project in Chile has
with the state of Montana regarding the Flathead River Basin in Southeastern reached the boiling point. Barrick Gold,
BC. This means that all ongoing mineral exploration work in BC’s Flathead the country’s largest mining company, has
Valley will be halted, and any further mine development or exploration will not filed a lawsuit in Ontario’s Superior Court
be permitted. This affects Max Resource Corp. and the Company’s current against industry rival Goldcorp. Barrick
Crowsnest gold project, located in the Flathead Valley watershed. “We are Gold has accused Goldcorp of engineering
surprised and disappointed by the Government’s action,” said Stuart Rogers, an illegal bid. The lawsuit continues to
President of Max, “given our outstanding exploration results at Crowsnest in allege that Goldcorp entered into a scheme
2009. And we will seek adequate compensation.” According to a statement, with New Gold Inc. to block Barrick’s
the Company will resume its focus on gold in Nevada, where drill permitting $465-million bid, a breach of the El Morro
on three gold exploration projects is already underway. shareholders agreement. Goldcorp and New
Gold Inc. have denied the allegations.

30 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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miningnews

Canadian Mines Make Top 100 List will give Vaaldiam’s existing shareholders authority. The entire process could take
A ranking of the world’s 100 largest mining approximately 30% of Tiomin’s stock. Tiomin between nine and 12 months. Greystar has
companies has been released and 16 Canadian Inc. is a Canada-based mining company also submitted an application for a work
companies made the list. The list was compiled with operating assets in Brazil, Kenya and and investment plan (PTO) based on the
by Miniweb, a web-based international mining Peru, with a focus on the exploration and Company’s prefeasibility study completed
publication. The rankings, which are based on development of base metals, precious metals, in March 2009. According to the study, the
market value, include: diamonds and titanium mineral sands. Angostura mine could produce an average of
Rank Company Name Value USD bn 511,000oz/y of gold and 2.3-millionoz/y of
6 Suncor  58.15 Stroud Announces Grant silver over 15 years.
8 Barrick Gold  40.98 of Stock Options
11 PotashCorp  36.31 Stroud Resources Ltd. has announced, subject Canadian Shield Appoints
12 Goldcorp  31.13 to acceptance by the TSX Venture Exchange, New Director; Expands Team
20 Teck Resources  23.68 that it has granted options to acquire an Canadian Shield Resources Inc. has announced
33 Kinross Gold  14.34 aggregate of 3,100,000 common shares to that Fernando Pickmann has been appointed
34 Canadian Oil Sands  14.19 directors and officers of the Company under to the Board of Directors. Further, the
40 Cameco  12.51 Stroud’s stock option plan. Each option is Company has also announced the expansion of
46 Agrium  10.90 exercisable to acquire one common share at a the exploration team in Lima, Peru. Pickmann
58 Yamana Gold  9.32 price of $0.10 per share for a three-year period. is a practicing lawyer based in Lima, and
59 Agnico-Eagle Mines  9.32 Stroud, a debt-free exploration company brings more than 15 years of commercial and
64 Eldorado Gold  8.08 focused on discovery and exploration of silver mining law experience to the Company, and a
68 Ivanhoe Mines  7.33 and gold deposits in Mexico and Ontario, combination of corporate experience in both
70 First Quantum  7.20 owns a 100% interest in the Santo Domingo the Peruvian and Canadian mining industries.
82 IamGold  6.29 epithermal silver-gold project in central Said Canadian Shield president Keith
86 Silver Wheaton  5.97 Mexico. Stroud’s assets also include 100% Laskowski, “We are very fortunate and excited
interests in the Hislop gold property, near to have Mr. Pickmann join our team, and I
Timmins, ON, and the Leckie gold property, look forward to his contributions as we take
Kodiak Exploration to Continue near North Bay, ON. our Peruvian program forward.” The Company
Mining at Milestone has also added two geologists to the Canadian
After a very fruitful first pass that identified a Vale’s Goro Nickel Shield local Peruvian team to work on the
large, potentially bulk-minable gold deposit, Operation Delayed Regional Andean Gold exploration program.
Kodiak Exploration Ltd. has announced plans According to a Vale company official, the
to begin drilling at its Milestone property processing plant at the Company’s Goro nickel Romios Closes Private Placement
in the Beardmore-Geraldton gold camp in operation in New Caledonia is undergoing tests Romios Gold Resources Inc. has announced
Western Ontario. The Vancouver-based and is not yet in production. The plant had been that the Company has closed the final piece
resource exploration company is expected to expected to start operating in January. The of the private placement of 250,000 working
commence its follow-up 4,000-metre diamond launch of Goro has been delayed several times capital units, further to the Company’s press
drilling program at the end of January and due to environmental opposition, operational release of December 31, 2009. The Company
continue on through March. Past results costs and a drop in nickel demand since 2008. currently has 101,717,479 common shares
and analysis of geophysical data indicate a Vale acquired the Goro project when it bought issued and outstanding.
significant gold system for the Milestone Canadian nickel miner Inco in 2006.
property. Construction at Mt. Milligan
Greystar Files Successful Gets Green Light
Tiomin Resources to Acquire EIA for Angostura Project The board of directors of Vancouver-
Vaaldiam Resources Vancouver’s Greystar Resources has based Canadian mineral development and
The wheels are in motion for Tiomin successfully filed an environmental impact exploration company Terrane Metals Corp.
Resources Inc. to acquire all outstanding assessment (EIA) with the Ministry of the have approved a decision to begin construction
shares of the Canadian-based diamond Environment, Housing and Territorial on the company’s Mt. Milligan copper-gold
mining and exploration company Vaaldiam Development in Columbia. The EIA was project. This move follows the expiration of
Resources Ltd. The two companies entered accepted for review in mid-January. This is Goldcorp Inc.’s one-time option to convert
into a definitive arrangement agreement that the first step in the environmental permitting equity interest in Terrane into a joint venture
will see Vaaldiam become a wholly-owned process for the development of Greystar’s between the two companies. Goldcorp Inc.
subsidiary of Tiomin Resources. Tiomin is Angostura gold/silver project. The Ministry has guaranteed Terrane Metals Corp. a
offering Vaaldiam 0.80 of a Tiomin common will then assemble a review team and request $40-million credit facility, which has been
share for each share of Vaaldiam, which input from the regional environmental extended to May 7, 2010. [CJ]

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 31

028.CJ_MiningNews_re.indd 31 2/11/10 1:44:05 PM


crimereport

This is a
True Story
B y Ron Hooper

After a recent JVC board meeting, a couple of JVC directors came up with the idea of bringing a JVC crime prevention seminar, similar to the two successful ones
in Toronto and Vancouver, to a smaller community. We would involve local police, and provide experts to speak on crime affecting jewellers, including credit
card fraud and robberies. This would be free to all industry members and staff. We would hold it on a Sunday if that would assist in getting staff to attend. A
well-known director in a smaller community volunteered to gauge the interest of a few jewellers. We were excited. At the next JVC directors meeting, however,
it was reported that the retailers we asked showed no interest whatsoever. They felt they knew how to handle their businesses and did not want to pay their staff
to attend a seminar. The level of apathy stunned us. Ron Hooper of Hooper’s Jewellers in Bowmanville, ON, (and a long-time JVC director), read the report in
the minutes of the meeting. The staff at Hooper’s Jewellers were victims of a traumatic violent crime in 2008. Here is their story. — Phyllis Richard

M
y company has been in business for 65 years, and has never point, I interrupted the attempt, and one of the individuals lunged at me
encountered anything so violent as what we experienced. with a knife. All three determined that things were going wrong and chased
I would like to say, however, that we very much value and me down the street. I was able to use a cell phone while running to phone
endorse the JVC and its Crime Prevention Program. There are things all the police, who were able to apprehend two out of the three, and, due to
jewellers should be updating their staff on from time to time, if even as their great detective work, subsequently apprehended the third. We later
a plain refresher session. Every employee should know what to do in a found out that all three involved in the attempted robbery were seasoned
breach of security incident (such as a robbery) so that the most effective criminals. The effects of their actions will last a lifetime; not only have they
method of apprehension by the proper authorities can be conducted. ruined one person’s life, but they have also changed the perspective of
three others, who question motives every time the front door opens.
In our case, an attempted armed robbery took place. Let me set the
scene: two staff were present on the sales floor, while a client was still To my fellow colleagues in the industry, here are some points to consider:
in the store. Three very nervous individuals we had never seen before
entered the store. One of the staff, being a bit apprehensive, alerted my • Make certain you have security cameras in all areas of the workplace
brother, who was in the workshop, advising him to come to the sales floor and, if possible, outside the premises.
immediately. He pretended to be adjusting a grandfather clock just to be • Have a store “safe code,” a word that everyone on staff is aware of
present. Three people were now on the floor, and the client left the store. and when to use it.
Two of the individuals (the suspects) asked to look at engagement rings. • If you have a back entrance, utilize a peephole or external security
screen before allowing anyone to enter.
One staff member, my daughter, proceeded to show the rings, and • Make certain your panic buttons are accessible, and not obvious
suddenly, one of the individuals leaped over the counter, pulling a large • Invest in personal alarm buttons – it can even be worn as a piece
bladed knife from under his belt, forcing my daughter to the ground of jewellery – and don’t be afraid to use it.
behind the counter. The other individual, also armed with a knife, chased • Most importantly do what robbers ask of you, and pay close attention
my other employee to the back room office area. Somewhere in that to any details of the situation: height, hair colour, clothing, vehicles, etc.
incident, one of my employees, an aspiring goldsmith, was slashed with
a knife, causing severe damage to her hand and impacting her ability to A robbery is the most traumatic thing that anyone can experience. This
return to work. She now suffers from posttraumatic stress disorder. business is our life. Every day I come to work and walk through the
front door, I still have flashbacks. The three criminals were eventually
The other individual confronted my brother, who feared for his life, and charged with six counts of robbery, one of them for another jewellery
the safety of the two girls. He struggled by throwing anything he could get store robbery. Some may say that we are one of the lucky ones, but it can
his hands on at the robber: display cases, a large grandfather clock. At that happen to anyone. [CJ]

32 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

032.CJ_JVC_re2.indd 32 2/11/10 11:21:03 AM


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Exclusive Enterprise
John de Jong reveals some of the secrets of success in “second-floor” retailing.
By Carol Besler
P hotography By Davide Bagnarol

O
f all the business models for running a retail jewellery operation, the
“second-floor” formula is among the hardest to implement, but carries
potential rewards that are the envy of the industry: no tire kicker walk-
ins, just appointment-only clients, 90% of which purchase something; less
likelihood of smash-and-grabs and break-ins, so fewer security requirements
and a better break on insurance rates and terms; flexible hours; more exclusive
clientele; fewer staffers and less administrative and POP costs. John de Jong, a
successful practitioner of this model who divides his time between Toronto and
Lausanne, Switzerland, agreed to give us a glimpse into the rarefied world of the
non-storefront retail enterprise, and the first thing you learn from him is that
networking is the key.

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coverstory

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“Initially it was purely social,” says de Jong when asked how he but the cost of a Bloor Street space was not feasible.” Still, the customers
procures clients. “I was very fortunate to have family friends who liked who visit de Jong’s office/showroom by appointment tend to be more
what I did and wanted to buy from me. The business was launched at qualified customers. “I would say 90% of people who come in to my
an event in the Muskokas. My parents held an exhibit/cocktail party showroom buy and 90% of those become or are repeat clientele,” says de
at our cottage on Lake Joseph, and I showed my first collection to Jong. “One-time purchasers are rare for us. We develop a relationship
about 120 people. It all started at that party really – I sold most of the with our clients.”
collection that day. Word got out, and a few of my first clients became
collectors and still are today. They in turn introduce their friends to De Jong founded his business in Lausanne, where his family, a close knit
my work.” group, has a home. He met with clients in his home office. A year later, he
established a showroom in an office building at the corner of Bloor and
Most retailers rely on walk-ins, an advantage de Jong doesn’t enjoy, Bay streets in Toronto, which functions like a salon, decorated to evoke
hence the need to solicit clients by other means. He admits, “I am sure the quiet, welcoming ambience of a private home. De Jong’s showroom
we would have more business [if we had walk-ins], but there is a peace manager of 10 years, Nathalie Castillo, holds the fort when de Jong is in
of mind and ease in working the way we do. I like the privacy, and to be Lausanne, which is, depending on the year, about half the time. Three
honest, it was the only option when I started out. I wanted a key location part-time staff also help out.

Cocholong and pink opal cuff and cocholong


and turquoise cuff. Turquoise, pink ceramic
gold and diamond rings.

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coverstory

The salon is decorated to evoke the quiet,


welcoming ambience of a private home.

The mainstay of de Jong’s marketing efforts, aside from a spectacular designing jewellery, first sketching the designs of others that he admired,
annual calendar and a tantalizing web site, take the form of events. There and then, later, developing his own style. “When my family moved to
is an annual open house at the grand Palace Hotel & Spa in Lausanne, Switzerland in 1981, I was suddenly surrounded by the great jewellery
where de Jong presents his latest collection, and an event in the Toronto houses in Geneva and Gstaad, where we spent a lot of time – I could see
showroom every November. This year, de Jong is doing a show at a all their work walking through town. Switzerland is a jewellery centre,
private club in the Bahamas, hosted by a friend, and, in Toronto, he’ll and that really inspired me. I was an avid designer, and kept up on all the
host a spectactular party to celebrate his 15th anniversary. He’ll make news in the industry and went to all the exhibitions.”
15 one-of-a-kind pieces to celebrate each year in business; each will be
exhibited in its own showcase. For de Jong, it’s all about connections. His first step into the field on a practical level was when, at the age of
“Each event brings business, and we always find this is the best way to 21, he spent a summer in Florence, taking a jewellery-making course.
introduce my work to new clients. It can be intimidating to go to the “I already had a keen interest in design and had been designing for
fourth floor [at Bloor Street] and ring a bell to see jewels,” he says. “This some time, but this was the first hands-on experience. I loved the
way, a new visitor gets to meet me and my staff and see my work and the course and was really influenced by the architecture of the city – I still
space in a stress-free way. It’s an easy way to visit us for the first time.” am to some degree.”

Family has been an important influence on de Jong. His grandfather After graduating from Boston College in 1990 with a BA in Art History,
was an executive at Henry Birks & Sons for some 40 years, at one time de Jong started working on the sales floor for Tiffany and Co. in Toronto.
managing the flagship store in Montreal and also the store in Hamilton. He was one of the original staff that opened the store, alongside Andrea
“We [de Jong and his four sisters] visited the stores a lot,” he says. “There Hopson and Sharifa Chivers. “It was a great experience,” he says. [It
were a lot of Birks boxes in our house.” At the age of 13, he started was Hopson who recommended de Jong for this issue’s cover story].

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 37

034-039.CJ_CoverStory.indd 37 2/11/10 1:52:01 PM


“Running your own business can be
insular,” says de Jong. “Especially if
you’re on the fourth floor.”

De Jong left Tiffany to go back to Europe in 1992, where he interviewed and Country. “Once, a woman from Connecticut saw my ad in Town
with both Piaget and Christie’s. “It was a hard time for the industry, and Country and bought a pair of rose-cut diamond earrings for her
and I did not land the job I wanted, so I decided to study gemmology wedding, sight unseen”. He cites the Internet as another great tool that
in California at the Gemological Institute of America.” Earning his has transformed his business. “I have made sales to clients who, rather
Graduate Gemologist degree was “a terrific experience and I loved the than come in to the showroom, will see a pic online and buy the piece
course,” he says. “I even stayed on to do the jewellery design course too, on that basis.”
which was my main focus.”
Although JdJ serves an international clientele, the client list in Canada is
A few months later he took an Undertsanding Jewellery course with growing. Canadians, while they have high quality standards, have always
Amanda Triossi at Sotheby’s in London. “ She was great, and really gave been very conservative when it comes to design, but that, says de Jong, is
a hands-on and practical approach to looking at estate and modern changing. “Canadians’ taste in jewellery has changed dramatically over
jewellery. We had access to some of the most interesting workshops in the past 10 years, partly because of the Internet I think, and the growing
London and met with all the big names on Bond Street. We are still in number of jewellery web sites, such as firstwaternews.com, which have
touch after all this time, and chat about jewellery business quite often encouraged people to become more committed to trends.” This is good
when I see her. She is now the curator of the Bulgari collection in Rome.” for de Jong, whose design aesthetic is based on two pillars that make
his pieces anything but conservative: colour and scale. “I have always
Although word-of-mouth business is essential to de Jong’s business, done a lot of colour on colour, and people would say ‘where are the
he has also advertised, especially at the beginning, including to broad diamonds?’ Scale and colour are very acceptable in Europe, and now
markets in The Globe and Mail and to a more focused audience in Town that has come to Canada,” he says.

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coverstory

Cufflinks from the Seville collection in magnesite, white


agate, lapis, onyx, gold and silver

De Jong reflects on the rewards of working in his own, non-storefront


business – “Freedom! Quality time with family and friends, travel, and
the satisfaction of building the business on my own” – but admits there
are also drawbacks. “I’m responsible for running the business, and I
wear a lot of hats, so any mistakes have been mine and mine alone. Also,
because of the nature of my business, clients like to see me when they
visit us, so sometimes I can feel stretched.”
Sevilla hardstone, wood,
blackjade, cocholong, turquoise
If he were starting a new business today, de Jong says he would have
and diamond bangles
chosen a mentor. “I would have a lunch with maybe 10 people in the
industry and choose someone who is the best fit and ask them to mentor
me through my first three years of business,” he says. “It’s good to have a
second pair of eyes, someone else who can have a pulse on the business
without being a financial partner. Running your own business can be
insular, especially if you’re on the fourth floor.”

Will he sell the business at some point? “I think the business will die with
me,” says de Jong. “I am not a global brand that is carried in retail stores.
It’s just me.” Not surprisingly, however, he thinks of it in terms of family
enterprise. Maybe I would sell it to my niece for a dollar,” he laughs. She
is 14 going on 35; she has a lot of style and she loves jewellery.” [CJ]

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034-039.CJ_CoverStory.indd 39 2/11/10 12:12:12 PM


productfocus

Hand-fabricated 18k yellow and green gold


pendant with a 19-carat prehnite surrounded
by green demantoid garnets (0.65tcw), on
a strand of South Sea pearls. Llyn Strelau,
Jewels by Design.

Undimmed
Radiance
Pearl sources may change, but their allure is enduring.
by sarah b . hood

A
lone among precious gems, the lustrous pearl is a creation of a
living organism. Though renewable, it is also uniquely susceptible
to disease, pollution and weather. The notable example is, of
course, the Japanese akoya, foremost among cultured pearls until the
industry was reduced by blight. Now the akoya is returning, but with the
increase in Chinese freshwater pearl production and growing interest
in Tahitian and South Sea pearls, prices are in flux. In an atmosphere
further complicated by recession, will Canadian retailers be able to sell
pearls over the coming months, and if so, at what price point?

40 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

040-043.CJ_Product_re.indd 40 2/11/10 11:28:04 AM


For details, write #116 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_ButterflyGems_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:25:31 PM


“‘I’ve discounted some strands I’ve had for a long time just to get them out
of the shop,’ says Strelau.”

“With all the difficulties we have heard about in the past, the Japanese in value. From the perspective of fashion or value, pearls are still the
are still the dominant player in akoya,” says Pierre Akkelian, President ultimate bang for the dollar.”
of Canadian Gem in Montreal. “Even though the production is much
reduced from the all-time high, there is still no significant quality “It’s a funny time in the market because the recession came on so fast
coming from China.” that you had pearl cultivators who were expecting happier times and who
had all this inventory, both freshwater and akoya. A lot of people had to
Akkelien cites reports that world pearl production has risen significantly sell off their inventory, so prices went down pretty steeply on Chinese
over the past 16 years, but prices have dropped. “Pearl farms in 1993 product,” says Robin Gambhir, President of Gambhir’s Imports. “People
produced about $800-million worth of raw material. In 1999, that value are sitting on goods that they can’t sell because the market price is below
had dropped to $500-million, and in 2009 it was down to $370-million,” cost. I’ve told retailers to buy now; it’s not going to get any cheaper than this.
he says. Nonetheless, “In 1996, Tahiti produced five tonnes of pearls; in I see prices going back up to where they were before the recession maybe
2009, they produced 12.5 tonnes. For South Sea pearls, production in in 18 months, but I think everybody in the supply chain has readjusted to
1996 was 2.4 tonnes, and in 2009 it was 12.5 tonnes.” lower retail sales.”

Production in Japanese pearl farms has dropped by about 50% by “I’ve discounted some strands I’ve had for a long time just to get them
quantity and 90% by value over the same period. “For the Japanese out of the shop,” says Strelau. “You can replace them for less than you
akoya specifically, in 1999, $600-million worth of pearls was produced, paid for them. But I have a couple of strands that I’ll never discount
but 2009 figures are about $60-million.” because they’re just too good, and they’ll eventually find a buyer.”

But Japanese akoya production is improving. “You can finally buy decent For consumers, who may not be very knowledgeable
quality akoya pearls again,” says Llyn Strelau, owner and designer for about recent price changes, pearls are very
Jewels by Design in Calgary. “And the latest I’ve seen are coming from fashionable right now, whether it’s the classic
Vietnam; only a couple of dealers deal with them: they are pink and Audrey Hepburn necklace or an art piece
creamy and grey-blue in mixed strands.” with coloured pearls. “Fashion-wise, we’ve
been very lucky; everywhere I look in
Meanwhile, Chinese freshwater pearls continue to improve, to the advertising or film, I see pearls. Michelle
extent that Joel Goldberg of Lou Goldberg Jewellers in Montreal warns Obama is always wearing pearls now; in
colleagues to be on guard because, he says, “I’ve been hearing of cases Sex and the City, star Sarah Jessica Parker
where some of the better quality freshwaters were mixed amongst is wearing pearls throughout the film,”
the akoyas.” Akkelien says.

“For the Canadian jeweller, prices dropped last year on the lower value
goods; like diamonds, the price took a dip because of the demand. Some
people were selling for perhaps 40% less, but the more expensive goods 19k white gold, ring with South Sea
didn’t take as much of a hit,” Akkelien says. “Now, in almost every button pearl, 28 channel-set princess
category, they’re almost approaching the prices of three years ago. We cut sapphires and round brilliant cut
have an advantage as Canadians because our dollar has appreciated diamonds. Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design

42 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

040-043.CJ_Product_re.indd 42 2/11/10 11:28:15 AM


productfocus

For Cecile Quirron of Melissa Pearl in Montreal, the selling points of the
moment are value and variety. “Gold is so expensive that I think pearls
and coloured stones are the thing to offer to the customer because they White South Sea cultured Pearl
have something to offer for the same price. It’s bad for jewellers that gold Baroque strand and white South Sea
is so expensive; you have to find something else to put in the display case. Keshi Pearl earrings with diamonds.
It’s an advantage for pearls,” she says. “You have so many choices in pearls: Canadian Gem.
multicoloured, golden, black, grey, white, pink – you can have 10 different
stores on the street and no one will have the same pearls.”

“The fashion industry has toned down; in bad economic times, it’s
considered in bad taste to flaunt wealth,” comments Gambhir. “After a
recession people go overboard in the other direction, but this recession
has been so deep and so long and has affected so many people that it may
take a couple of years before we see a real recovery.”

Nonetheless, he does see trends in favour of chocolate or blue-and-silver


pearls. “In coloured, white, brown and mixed colours, there’s activity in
the larger sizes when they’re very round and very clean,” he says. “The
only way to make a proper margin on these things is to take a strand or
a couple of beads and add value to it by putting it into a design.”

“I haven’t sold a strand of basic white pearls for a long time, but I have
sold freshwater or Tahitian pearls that are either black or multicoloured,”
says Strelau, who adds value by creating necklaces with a German
“InterCHANGE” clasp that can link to different pendant pieces. “If you
sell a $10,000 or $30,000 pearl strand that you can only wear one way,
it’s hard to justify the price, but if you have something that you can wear
in several different ways, people are excited by it because they can keep
adding to it.”
Pearl Advertisers in this issue
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he adds, “but don’t buy promotional quality freshwater pearls, because
you’re going to live and die with them unless they sell quickly.” MCD Pearls
t: 416.368.2690
w: www.mcdpearls.com
Other retailers are using a variety of selling strategies to interest their
clients in pearls, including prime placement in the shop. “If you walk Pandora Jewellery
through our door, the fi rst thing you would see in our front counter t: 410.309.0200
is about a dozen different sizes and shapes of South Sea pearls,” says w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
Goldberg. “A strand of pearls is the most basic thing that a woman can
Siffari
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she is never inappropriately accoutred wearing a strand of pearls.” w: www.siffari.com

“Jewellers are missing an opportunity if they don’t look at the pearl Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
category,” says Akkelien. “I’m very confident for the future of the
w: www.stuller.com
pearl industry, because every fashionable woman is wearing pearls
right now.” [CJ]

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New Beginnings An interview with Bhushan Vora, the Chairman of the Board of the
newly established (and long awaited) Diamond Bourse of Canada to
discuss what it means for the industry and our global reputation.
By Paul A guirre

Canadian Jeweller (CJ): The Diamond Bourse of Canada (DBC) has open a bourse in Toronto, as it’s the hub of the industry. To move this
been a long time coming. Tell us about the process and how/why you further we need funding from the industry that would be matched
became involved. by the Ontario government. We got some industry leaders and other
interested individuals to sign up and become the first founding
Bhushan Vora (BV): The process started about three years ago. I am members [there are 14] of the bourse. We divided the work and got
the president of the Diamond Manufacturers Association of Canada. underway to find a location and put all the necessary elements in
Under the umbrella of the DMAC, I did a couple of presentations to place. The key reason for my involvement in this project was to give
the Ontario government bringing awareness of mining and other something back to an industry which has given me so much. Our
elements of the diamond and jewellery industry. This got the ball products turn into cherished mementos in every family’s heritage. I
rolling and one day I heard back from the Ontario government would like to see the same happen with this bourse.
showing keen interest in our sector. The lead person at the time was
Robert Merwin with whom I shared a lot of information. We traveled CJ: What will the organization bring to the Canadian jewellery
to Israel together to see the bourses there. After seeing how they work industry?
around the world, we felt that it was time for Canada. The key to this
was all the countries that had mines, manufacturing and trade had BV: The DBC will bring the industry together to have a voice in the
bourses except Canada. This was the key segment missing in the chain Canadian market. DBC will make sure that the jewellery industry
from mining to the consumers. With the help of the CJA and the use of benefits from the information it can provide to the industry. Apart from
their offices, we began to move the process forward; our first meeting the services provided by our organization, we will also bring more trade
was held in their boardroom with about 30 people. In conjunction within our vast country. The DBC will bring all the participants from
with the Ontario government we started doing a feasibility study and governments and international trade together to bring more vibrancy to
town hall meetings to see how interested the industry was in getting the jewellery industry. The DBC under one roof will have more elements
a bourse. The response was overwhelming and the consensus was to than any other association in Canada.

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CJ: What impact will this have on an international level? For our products related to the diamond trade. I think some of the services are
industry’s international profile? ready to go as soon as we open, and I would say within a period of a few
months we will be providing all these services. We will also add more
BV: The DBC has already been associating with the World Federation services as the need arises.
of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and taken their guidance in forming
the bourse here in Canada. The international markets all are aware of CJ: What are the membership requirements/parameters? What is the
the value of the bourse and will bring more credibility to the industry fee schedule like or is it assessed individually?
in the international market. We will be looking to get more defined
statistics on our industry which will help in forecasting trends and BV: The membership requirements are pretty straightforward. Once
help international trade. a person applies we do a thorough check on their background. We
review that they are a Canadian corporation and have been operating
CJ: Is the Bourse only going to sell/offer exclusively Canadian product? for a minimum of three years in Canada. These are the two most
Why is buying Canadian so important in today’s economic climate? important elements. The fee schedule for the first year is $1,500 for a
member. There are other levels of memberships in case a person does
BV: The bourse is going sell and offer all kinds of products that the not want to be a full member.
Canadian market will bear and the international market will love. Our
members have some of the best Canadian and non-Canadian products CJ: Are you able to share membership enrolment numbers thus far?
to sell. The Canadian market is just as vibrant as the Asian market. We How has the response been from the industry?
manufacture some of the best products in the world and have the best
artisans working here. We need to create a mind set in all our consumers BV: At this time, it’s a work in progress. There is a lot of interest for
to buy Canadian. One way of getting the consumers’ confidence up in the opening and to see the actual location and how our process works.
our products is the support by the Northwest Territories and Ontario Once this happens, I anticipate the response booming and membership
governments by creating certificate of origin of the diamonds that taking off.
comes out of our mines. This will entail better business within Canada
and attract more overseas buyers as the word gets out of the quality of CJ: What is the government’s involvement with the bourse?
work we produce.
BV: The government’s interest in the bourse is only to see it succeed as
CJ: How does our Bourse compare to similar organizations throughout we have more mines coming on board. We are a completely independent
the world? What do you plan on doing to propagate the Bourse’s body to operate as we like. We feel the government plays a vital role in
reputation and is it your goal to be affiliated with the other bourses? our success, and the input we get from their experience is very crucial
to our operation.
BV: This bourse is very comparable to the other bourses around the
world but with a “Canadian twist.” Once we are operational and we CJ: What is your view of the future of our industry? What should
start providing the services and attract international buyers, it will retailers be aware of now more than ever?
automatically build our reputation. I have yet to find someone who visits
Canada and isn’t totally impressed by its people and the infrastructure BV: The future of the industry is very bright as long as we stay on top of the
we have here. Our multicultural and mosaic society is unique. We plan to changes taking place around the world. Retailers should be aware of the
show how well the industry in Canada works together in competing with fact that mining, diamonds cutting methods, manufacturing processes
the world markets, and we definitely would like to be associated with the and the consumers themselves are all evolving very fast. The credit is tight.
other bourses around the world so that we may have more opportunities The banks are viewing our borrowing and business practices closely. The
with other countries. retailer really needs to come in conjunction with the bigger picture and go
after the marketing of jewellery in a way that the consumer starts to think
CJ: What services will the Bourse offer and how long will it take to of jewellery as an asset that can be enjoyed. The retailer needs to push the
phase them in? supply chain for more marketing of its jewellery so they don’t lose out to
other luxury goods or electronic items. [CJ]
BV: The Bourse will offer many services, like a bonded warehouse,
technology center, shipping services, pick-up windows for GIA, safety The Diamond Bourse of Canada is located at 20 Richmond St. East,
deposit lockers, forex services, tenders in polish and rough diamonds Suite 302, in Toronto. Contact the Bourse at 416-663-3262, or toll free
and seminars and guidance on industry-related topics. We will also sell at 1-888-963-3262.

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Rolling with the Times
Classic styles and foundational collections dominate SIHH in Geneva.
BY CAROL BESLER

A piece from the Vacheron Metiers D’Art collection demonstrating


the art of Japanese Maki-e lacquering technique.

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T
he introduction of exceptional models in iconic collections
prevailed at the twentieth anniversary edition of the Salon
International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this year.
Following a year of heavy losses for the watch industry, the Richemont
brands and other high-end exhibitors at the SIHH responded to current
market conditions by emphasizing their expertise as manufacture
watchmakers, producing in-house calibres for bread-and-butter lines,
as well as a few exceptional pieces in limited editions.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master
Compressor Extreme Lab2,
with world’s most complex
chronograph movement.

Cartier’s premier launch, the Calibre de Cartier, represents the brand’s


renewed endeavor to redefine itself as primarily a men’s watch brand
by producing in-house calibres and men’s-only styles. Calibre contains
the brand’s first in-house automatic movement, calibre 1904mc,
with a double-barrel mainspring and a 48-hour power reserve. Two
complicated versions of the Calibre, a tourbillon and a jumping hour,
were introduced in limited editions. Cartier has attempted in the past to
introduce collections intended strictly for the men’s market, only to have
them appropriated by women. The Pasha is a case in point. Originally
introduced as a men’s watch, it quickly became Cartier’s best-selling
Montblanc TimeWalker Dual
Carbon, with a case that is
ladies’ watch. Cartier also introduced a new ladies’ watch this year: the
harder than the usual DLC Captive, with a diamond-set bezel and a unique lug attachment that
(Diamond Like Carbon). takes the form of a cut-out in the dial at the 12 o’clock position.

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“Lange and Piaget both introduced automatic
versions of iconic movements.”

Many other brands beefed up their iconic collections. IWC’s


reintroduction of its Portuguese line, for example, included
everything from a hand-wound steel automatic with hacking
seconds to a Portuguese Grande Complication in a limited
edition of 50 pieces in red gold.

Lange and Söhne made a statement in its iconic Lange One line by
introducing the Lange One Daymatic with a new automatic in-house
calibre. This is the first automatic movement for the Lange One, which
was introduced in 1994, and is sure to become a collector’s item.

Audemars Piguet introduced several new versions of its iconic Royal


Oak collection, including an Offshore Diver, an Offshore chronograph, a
tourbillon chronograph, a Royal Oak Equation of Time and an Offshore
Grand Prix collection.

Girard Perregaux introduced a palladium version of its classic 1966, with


a full calendar movement in a limited edition of 199 pieces. “It has the
functions and the style of a great iconic classic,” says Valérie Oppliger of
GP, who points out that a “beautiful GP full calendar watch is mentioned
on the first page of the Ian Fleming novel From Russia With Love.

Vacheron Constantin thrilled collectors with an equation of time/


perpetual calendar version of the Patrimony Traditionnelle. The 14-
day power reserve for this automatic movement is achieved with four
mainspring barrels. The case is platinum, and the band is stitched with
platinum silk thread.

Sakura, with a Japanese lacquer dial Thin is in this year, when it comes to movements. Piaget introduced an
from the Extraordinary Lacquer
collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
automatic calibre version of its famously slim (2.30mm) 12P hand wound
movement. The automatic 1200P is 2.35mm thick, making it the world’s
thinnest automatic movement. It is cased in the Altiplano collection.

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The Yacht Club Chrono from IWC’s


revamped Portuguese line.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced four new in-house movements this year,


including the Master Compressor Extreme Lab Chronograph calibre 780
the world’s most complex chronograph, with 569 components. It drives
a radial power reserve indicator located on the flange or inner bezel, a
digital minute counter that looks like an analog indicator, and a single
pusher that operates two functions (winding and second time zone). The
watch is also something of a marvel because of its use of unconventional
materials: it has a silicon hairspring, aluminum (non-magnetic) hands,
and a titanium/vanadium case.

Panerai also introduced a new case material this year, a composite


aluminum/ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and temperature
changes and is used in its Radiomir Marina Militare line, with a Panerai
calibre P.2002/7. It is an eight-day, hand-wound movement. Montblanc
also entered the realm of new materials with a dual-carbon treated case,
used for its TimeWalker Dual Carbon series. It is finished with a special
thermal carbon treatment in addition to the standard DLC (diamond-
like carbon) finish.

Metiers D’Art, the traditional artisanal crafts that go into the finishing
of a high end watch, such as marquetry, enamelling, engraving and gem
setting, were also on full display at SIHH. Both Van Cleef and Arpels and
Vacheron Constantin introduced collections with Japanese lacquered
dials. Each brand, in fact, hosted craftsmen who travelled from Tokyo
to the fair to demonstrate the ancient techniques of Japanese lacquering.
Van Cleef introduced three boxed sets of enamel-dial watches: California
Dreaming celebrates the brand’s 70th anniversary in the United States
with scenes of California rendered in marquetry, enamel, engraving and
gem setting; a set of five watches with dials depicting different varieties of
hummingbirds; and another depicting varieties of butterflies, rendered
in stained-glass enamel.

The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which manages the fair, says


both attendance and business volumes increased this year, and that
signs of recovery are evident. “While 2009 will be remembered above
all as a year marked by a global economic crisis that did not spare fine
watchmaking, the next 12 months are likely to be a completely different
vintage,” said an FHH statement following the fair. “The increase in
attendance recorded at the 2010 SIHH, despite greater selectiveness in
extending invitations, is a very clear sign of this. The number of visitors
The new Cartier
was 10% up on last year, at 12,500, 1,200 of whom were representatives
Calibre in steel, with
date window and of the international media.”
small seconds.
The 2011 SIHH will be held from January 17 to 21. [CJ]

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financefeature

How to
Raise Prices,
Even in a
Recession
Discussing money with clients can be one
of the most awkward parts of being a small
business owner, so how do you raise prices
with as little disruption as possible?

BY HOWARD GROSFIELD

W
hen was the last time you raised your prices? Chances are it’s been a while. Many small
business owners avoid raising their price points, particularly during a recession, out
of fear of having difficult conversations and of losing clients. Many small business
owners are considering raising their prices – some because their costs are rising, some because
they feel their rising level of expertise justifies it. For those that may be considering raising their
prices, here are some factors to consider.

• Have your prices remained unchanged for many years?


• Are your costs rising?
• Are you very busy (which suggests clients think the owner offers good value for money
or a unique skillset)?
• Are you winning every piece of new business targeted (which suggests the business
is undervaluing its services)?
• Have you or your employees significantly increased your experience or related education?

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financefeature

“Clients of manufactures and suppliers are most likely to accept a price increase when they
get the information clearly and in advance. Businesses that simply start using new prices for
routinely ordered product on the next invoice with no warning may be met with hostility.”

Evaluate Your Costs No Surprises


If you have held your prices unchanged for years and years, it’s likely Clients of manufactures and suppliers are most likely to accept a price
that customers will be surprised when do you increase prices. If your increase when they get the information clearly and in advance. Businesses
customers come to understand that you are regularly evaluating your that simply start using new prices for routinely ordered product on the
costs, they will be more likely to accept price changes without a negative next invoice with no warning may be met with hostility. In this instance,
reaction. transparency always wins. Send a letter clearly explaining how prices are
going to change, when, and, perhaps most importantly, why. This will
For small business owners, reevaluating pricing annually is a rule go a long way to gaining acceptance. For some clients, a phone call may
of thumb, though for those operating in an industry where costs be more appropriate.
experience volatility, semi-annually may be more appropriate. Once
it’s been decided how often prices should be re-evaluated, it might When to Make Exceptions
serve well to pick a logical time of year, such as the end of the calendar Some clients may ask for exceptions, so it’s a good idea to think ahead
year or fiscal year-end, and stick to it. That way, increases don’t appear about your answer. If you send out a notice of a price hike, consider if any
arbitrary. clients are so valuable that it’s worth making an exception if asked. There
are risks in making exceptions, since, most importantly, some people
Price increases will also seem less arbitrary if you are able to cut any may talk. If one customer tells another that they are getting a deal, there
of your prices. Over time, you may find that your supply costs have may be a line-up of customers looking for something similar.
decreased due to better sourcing, or that the time it takes you to complete
a particular function has dropped because you are more efficient. When The best preparation for this situation may be to make sure the
you combine increases with decreases, it’s more likely customers will explanation for the price increase is clear and stick to it. If faced with
accept that they are truthfully related to costs. the potential of losing a client, suppliers might consider what else
can be offered as an offset rather than an exception to the price hike.
Know the Market Depending on the type of business, this might be a discount for high-
Perhaps one of the toughest parts of setting price points is figuring volume business or just a one-month delay in implementing the new
out how much to charge relative to others in the industry. This may pricing, giving clients time to prepare.
take a little detective work. If the owner is part of a professional
association, the easiest method may be to ask other members what Distinguish Yourself
they charge. (This will be less awkward if they are from another Sometimes, when creating a price schedule, the key is to focus on the
region and hence not direct competitors.) People also tend to be results you get for your client. A gentle reminder of the good work done
more forthcoming in online communities, which provide a degree of in the past accompanying a discussion of rising prices helps to put things
anonymity. in perspective. [CJ]

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2/11/10 3:27:53 PM
For details, write #118 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFeb10_ReadyMounts_Ad.indd 1
Got it Covered
How Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company is making things
easier for retailers everywhere.
BY CLARE TATTERSALL

T
he story of Jewelers Mutual began in 1913, when members of
the Wisconsin Retail Jewelers Association banded together
to find affordable fire insurance for jewellers. Led by Andrew
Anderson, a Neenah, WI, jeweller, they formed the Jewelers Mutual
Limited Fire Insurance Company of Wisconsin in the back office of
a downtown Neenah jewellery store. From here, the company issued
its first policies, averaging US$700 in fire insurance coverage for a
premium of US$9.15.

As the years passed, crime began to outpace fi re as the greatest risk


to jewellery businesses. In response, the burgeoning company rolled
out additional insurance policies to reflect the broader market, and
changed its name to its present-day incarnation.

By its 40th anniversary in 1953, Jewelers Mutual had begun offering


insurance coverage to consumers as well as to the trade, with a
comprehensive Jewellers Block policy. Designed to protect retail and
wholesale jewellers from crime losses, the base policy covers inventory of
jewellery stock for sale, customers’ property entrusted to jewellers, memo
goods, jewellery worn by employees while away from the business, the
expense of hiring a security guard if there is an alarm system failure and
any losses typical in the jewellery industry, such as burglary, robbery, Darwin Copeman
sneak theft, fire and water damage, to name a few.

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companyprofile

Since then, Jewelers Mutual has experienced its greatest growth, jewellery industry. Interactive online training courses include Danger
becoming licensed in all 50 states in 1976 and Canada in 2005, and on the Road and Selling with Security. Providing important tips to
broadening its range of insurance coverage to jewellery businesses. New significantly reduce travel risk, Danger on the Road was the first online
coverage includes the Businessowners policy, providing property and course of its kind related to jewellery security. Selling with Security
liability coverage to manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers and specialty is the newest online course, which teaches jewellers how to protect
jewellery businesses; the Jewelers Standard Policy, a less expensive merchandise, staff and themselves from thieves, using three important
alternative to Jewelers Block for smaller jewellery operations; and the security habits: meet-and-greet, one-on-one and turn the key. In meet-
Jewelers Pak policy, which combines the Businessowners policy with and-greet, for instance, jewellers learn how to make customers feel
the Jewelers Block policy. All policies can be customized to meet the welcome and thieves uncomfortable in their store. Emphasis is placed
policyholder’s specific coverage requirements. on greeting each customer, making eye contact and keeping watch, as
well as continuously checking jewellery sales tags to prevent a switch of
“Every ounce of our energy, capital and human resources is focused on real for fake jewellery.
the desire to have the very best product and service and making sure
that’s available to our customers,” says president and CEO Darwin “First and foremost, our role in the industry is to keep jewellers from
Copeman, adding “coverage you can count on” is an integral part of the having losses, so we work diligently to get information out about loss
company’s success. prevention,” says Copeman about the niche company, which is the only
insurer dedicated to protecting the jewellery industry and individuals
Currently, more than 10,000 policyholders trust Jewelers Mutual to who own jewellery.
insure their jewellery businesses and more than 200,000 individuals
carry upwards of US$3-billion in personal insurance coverage. The To facilitate the dissemination of information, Jewelers Mutual has
ability to pay its claims is one of the reasons Jewelers Mutual has received produced a series of security and loss prevention films. Further
an A+ Superior rating from A.M. Best for 23 consecutive years. emphasizing its commitment to education, it has also partnered
with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance to develop a comprehensive alert
“We have a stellar reputation for covering our customers’ exposures, network to combat crime. These efforts are especially noteworthy given
which keeps us first and foremost in the minds of our commercial today’s rising crime rates. According to Jewellers Vigilance Canada, the
insurers,” he notes. Also top of mind for policyholders and Jewelers number of reported break and enter, theft and robbery crimes involving
Mutual its people. Last year the company completed an 18,900-sq.- jewellery increased in 2009, with robberies almost doubling to 44 from
ft. addition to its Neenah headquarters, located, fittingly, on Jewelers 28, accounting for $3.8-million in losses.
Park Drive, which was undertaken to accommodate Jewelers Mutual’s
growing and number-one asset – its employees. “Most of the crime that impacts jewellers today is a product of
professional thieves that do a very good job at identifying security leaks
“We have one of the most highly reputed individuals in loss prevention or potential weaknesses in a store,” he notes. “They’re studying the safe
in (North America),” says Copeman of David Sexton, vice-president mechanisms, security devices and alarm companies that are intended to
of loss prevention, who is one of 191 staff members. “He works with protect stores, trying to find a way around them so they might be able to
all security companies, is constantly asked to consult with individual get away with stealing a large sum of gems or watches.” Copeman adds
commercial store owners that are looking to develop new security that he has also seen an increase in the number of reported off-premise
systems, and was recently inducted to the board of the Jewelers’ Security travel losses involving jewellery. To reduce the risk of becoming a victim,
Alliance.” Copeman, who joined Jewelers Mutual in 2009, has more he stresses the importance of straying from habitual behaviour.
than 30 years of experience in the insurance industry, most recently as
the president and CEO of Cameron Insurance Companies. He has also “It’s about not exposing yourself to watching thieves,” he explains. “When
served in executive positions at Great American Insurance Company travelling from town to town, don’t take the same route, don’t stay at the
and in various executive and management roles at Grinnell Mutual same hotel and don’t make the same rounds in the community.”
Reinsurance Company. Since joining Jewelers Mutual, the company
has forged two historic partnerships – one with Jewelers of America While providing this type of value-added information is a hallmark
and the other with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA). There was of Jewelers Mutual, the company also takes time to listen to the
also a partnership forged with the American Gem Society in February jewellery industry through its Jewelers Advisory Council. Comprised
2009. Through relationships such as these, Jewelers Mutual has forged of eight Jewelers Mutual-insured jewellers that represent the variety of
a symbiotic relationship with the jewellery industry. These strategic businesses the company insures, the Council meets with Jewelers Mutual
partnerships have also served to enhance the services and products representatives at least once a year to discuss insurance and security
Jewelers Mutual and the respective organizations provide to the retail issues for the industry and provide insight into how the company can
jewellery industry, ensuring its health and vitality. For example, through most effectively meet the needs of its commercial customers.
Jewelers Mutual’s partnership with the CJA, members of the association
receive free access to JM University, a virtual classroom established by “By helping each other, we can better serve our clients,” says Copeman.
the company to provide safety, security and insurance education to the “It’s a win-win-win all-around.” [CJ]

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Rebirth Ian Saude brings simplicity and spiritualism to the
forefront of jewellery.
BY BONNIE SIEGLER

Etoile I, with fancy sapphires, in shades


ranging from classic to exotic.

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designerprofile

Acqua I + Kobe dangles, with


high-dome briolettes (averaging
28-29tcw) in mint green quartz.

S
ettling into the idyllic Katmandu, Nepal, in the mid-'90s, Ian Saude
searched the region for new ideas and inspiration for his jewellery
collection. At the same time, while living in the Himalayas,
studying Buddhism philosophy, Saude sought out the ancient ways of
jewellery making so that each piece he created would enhance the natural
qualities of his surroundings. In 2006, Saude returned to California to
live and begin work on a new brand, Ian Saude: IS, launched in May
2008. Mixing colours and exotic gemstones, Saude’s style of working Acqua I + Kaba dangles, with
with nature instead of against it, has brought about a strong Hollywood baroque-briolette oro verde
citrines in 18k yellow gold.
following enjoys his contemporary and interchangeable pieces, which
bring out their own creativity and daily attitudes.

Canadian Jeweller (CJ): What was it about the ancient craftsmanship


traditions that fascinated you and inspired you?

Ian Saude (IS): Just the fact that they could fashion such amazing
looking pieces of jewellery using, in some cases, tools that had not
substantially changed since the Middle Ages. They used old-fashioned
hand tools, kerosene torches and blow pipes. I thought it was amazing
to see where jewellery-making started and then compare it to all of
the different techniques and tools we have today. That was when I first
started, in 1995.

CJ: How has your jewellery – and you personally – been influenced by
the exotic and spiritualism of Nepal and this region?

IS: I am a practicing Buddhist and the spirituality came first, I think.


I don’t know if I can say specifically how it influenced me because it
has influenced me on so many levels and in so many different ways. In Acqua II + Kobe dangles,
with elongated, almond-
early collections, I used a lot of symbolic imagery from ancient Tibet
shaped hinged hoops.
and Sanskrit, both the iconography and the literary tradition. I love modern
art and I wanted to do pieces that fit more into a Western sensibility, so
the references to those aspects are more symbolic now. For instance, one
of my new earrings is a large hinged hoop earring, but it’s also a very
unusual shape. It’s not that the shape derived directly from any spiritual
tradition, but the whole idea that when you change your perspective
relative to the piece, your perception of how the piece is shaped changes.

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designerprofile

Scultura with Tahitian pearl dangles, with


mocca diamonds with detachable gem-grade
Tahitian pearl dangles.

It’s very much a Buddhist concept. It’s really the subject that defines
the experience, not the object itself. The object is there as a mirror as
it were. As I’ve evolved, the symbolic imagery is less literal and more
experiential.

CJ: Do you work with silver and 18k gold now?

IS: I don’t really work much with silver now. It’s 18k gold and gemstones.

CJ: What gemstones do you prefer using?

IS: I’m doing a lot of micro-pavé work with chocolate diamonds, in the
cognac tones. We’re doing a lot of shading, and I’m using pavé techniques, not
just for normal flat, round surfaces but on curvilinear surfaces, using
diamonds to uncover unusual shapes that you would not normally be able
to use gemstones for until recently. That, in combination with beautiful
subdued colour is what I prefer. I like tourmaline a lot, different colours
of citrine – things that go well with a cognac colour. And all these go so
well with white, yellow and rose gold, which I like to work in, so it goes Acqua I + Lea dangles, in 18k
well with everything, actually. Because it’s a little softer, the colour of the yellow gold with baroque-cut
African amethyst navettes
diamonds is not quite so blatant and women feel comfortable wearing
surrounded by diamonds.
them during the daytime and really get noticed. They’re obviously fine
jewellery, but they’re not necessarily just red carpet accessories.

CJ: So are your designs interchangeable between day and night?

IS: A big concept in the 2009 collection was and is versatility. For example,
I took an earring called Acqua Huggies, which is a small sculptural
piece – Demi Moore and Christina Ricci wore those. The Huggies have a
whole selection of different interchangeable dangles that fit on to them.
And the dangles come in all different colours so the idea is women can
mix and match, and if they’re travelling, you don’t want something
too opulent for the office, but when you’re going out for drinks later, you
can take these earrings and transform them to make them look like
something new. It increases the value of the piece, because you don’t
have to invest in earrings every time. You can customize it to wardrobe, Acqua I + Alais dangles, in
seasonal changes, moods, so it can be a creative thing, too. 18k rose gold with rose colored
Malaya zircons framed with
mocca diamonds.
CJ: Teri Hatcher was seen with a pair of your Piave I earrings.

IS: Yes, she owns a pair of those. She bought them for herself. She also
has wore our 12 stacking rings on the red carpet.

CJ: Other celebrities wear your designs, as well.

IS: Faith Hill wore the big Piave III hoops at the CMA Awards last
year when she presented the Entertainer of the Year award to Taylor
Swift. Jessica Biel wore the Piave II hoops at the Rome Film Festival
last year and on a few other recent occasions. Kate Beckinsale just
bought one of our capsule rings for herself, similar to our Piave
earrings but as a ring.

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For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_SanghaviDiamonds_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:28:30 PM


designerprofile

CJ: Celebrities do have a hand in setting trends. Do you see an emphasis on


any certain design that calls out “fashion forward” for this year?

IS: The Scultura and the Acqua I and Acqua II earrings with their various
dangle combinations are of particular interest for this season, I think.
The versatility and the “fun” aspect of being able to change them around "I want to create designs that are contemporary,
is a key reason for their appeal, I’ve heard. Expressing one’s creativity, but not trendy in the sense that they are
your look evolves as you evolve, and I think that’s what is appealing.
disposable and cater to some cultural whim.
CJ: Your pieces represent a look that is chic, yet trendy. What do you think I want women to develop a jewellery wardrobe."
your collection says about the women who wear some of your pieces?

IS: That’s a very good question. We have a broad cross section of women
who enjoy the pieces, and I don’t design for any one kind of customer,
specifically. But in general, I try to design for a woman who is confident
in her take, who is looking at jewellery, clothing choices and lifestyle
choices as an outlet for her own creativity as an expression of her taste.
And as someone who is confident in making those purchases for herself.
Although I have a lot of men buying these pieces for women, I’m not
really designing a collection of traditional diamond jewellery that’s Treasure cage ring. Cocktail ring in 18k yellow
going to be marriage-related. Basically, people have different lifestyles gold, entwines a cache of loose baroque South
and relationships now and I’m trying to create jewellery for a woman Sea pearls. The surface is a mixture of brushed
and polished finishes, delicately strewn with
in her own unique point of view, not via the relationship in her life.
tiny green sapphires in bezel settings.
It’s really something that’s going to be fun, that fits into her lifestyle,
something she can use in lots of different ways. Women respond to those
changes. We all evolve over the course of our lifetimes and women (more
than men), are often called upon to fulfill a lot of different roles in their
lives. So I’m trying to create jewellery that’s sexy and fun, but at the same
time, is dignified and apparently valuable. It’s nice to create things that
are fashion forward but still have the ability to become a future classic so
that a woman can wear it, enjoy it now, put it back in her jewellery box
for a few years and then take it out only to love it all over again. I want
to create designs that are contemporary, but not trendy in the sense that
they are disposable and cater to some cultural whim. I want women to
develop a jewellery wardrobe. [CJ]

Capsule rings in black or mocca diamonds.


Available in 18k yellow gold, or white and
rose gold by special order.

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056-060.CJ_Designer_re1.indd 60 2/11/10 10:59:38 AM


CHRISTONY, INC.

LOW COST LEADER ™ Visit us at the


Upcoming shows:
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Houston, TX Jan. 30 - Feb. 1, 2010
www.lowcostleader.com JA New York:
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TOLL FREE: 866-8-LOW-COST
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For details, write #120 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_WorldsGold_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:30:28 PM


Prevention is the Best Protection
Stop jewellery theft on the road before leaving home.
By Sarah B. H ood

T
he best way to prevent robbery on the road is by preplanning. By in residential neighbourhoods.” If the suspicious car is still following,
the time a thief strikes, he has probably been planning the crime “get to a place of safety: pull into a police or fire station or a bank.
for weeks; a jeweller needs to think ahead to outwit him. Dial 911, and do not say ‘I think I am being followed.’ Say ‘I am about to
be the victim of an armed robbery.’”
“One of our challenges is educating jewellers about how to protect
themselves,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice-President, Loss Prevention, “Try not to stop the car,” advises Normand Federico, Director of Loss
for Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. “The JVC (Jewellers Vigilance Prevention for Birks and Mayors. “Have a full tank of gas and a fully-
Canada) manual for loss prevention provides the most comprehensive charged cell phone. Make sure to go to the bathroom before you start.”
guide to procedures that can be used to prevent crime in Canada.” The Do not respond to any distraction, from someone asking for directions
Jewelers Mutual website offers a free video, “Danger on the Road.” to an argument in a restaurant. If you see a roadside accident, call 911 to
report it, but do not stop.
“In loss prevention, there’s nothing more powerful than knowledge,”
says Sexton. “The information one jeweller gets from another is more Lamont notes that some thieves will puncture a tire so the driver will be
valuable than anything they would read in a brochure.” forced to pull over later. “If your tire is going flat, go to a gas station or
pull into a public place.” Run-flat tires, which stretch driving time on a
Vigilance is key, and starts long ahead, because thieves sometimes watch puncture, can be a good investment.
a target for weeks before striking. JVC Director of Crime Prevention
John Lamont suggests, “preplanning your route and maybe not using Merchandise should always be locked in the trunk of the car. “There is
the same route all the time.” greater risk to yourself when the merchandise is inside the car. There are lock
systems that can provide greater security to your trunk,” Kennedy notes;
If a car is followed, “salesmen on the road have to engage in evasive Babaco is one trusted brand. When unloading, “if everything is in your
driving techniques,” says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers Security trunk, you have time to look around,” says Federico. “If you have any doubt,
Alliance. “Drive very slowly, making U-turns or driving around the block leave everything in your trunk and go inside to security and call 911.”

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securityfeature

Luggage can be fitted with a GPS device that can be tracked via computer. When flying, ideally, jewellery should never be checked, but most tools
Some systems set off an alarm if the briefcase is moved more than ten feet and jewellery with pin-like fasteners will not be allowed in carry-
away from its owner. However, Kennedy cautions, “often, thieves discard on. It is advisable to request a private security screening. Otherwise,
the item. There is also the issue of the recovery of the goods; it’s not simple. it is best to wait until the regular check-in line is not busy. Packing
Before and after every sales call, eyeball the area, and don’t sit in your merchandise in transparent wrapping or cases will speed up a luggage
car for any length of time,” he says. “Park very near to your destination. search. An aisle seat is safest, and the best place to keep the line is
Ideally, the store owner will make sure you get back to your car.” under the seat.

“Some people hire a security guard,” says Lamont. “When they go into When travelling to a trade show, the most secure option is to hire an
a mall, the guard should keep a little distance between himself and the armoured car company to transport the line into the secure show area.
jeweller so they can’t both be distracted at the same time.” Federico Smoke and Screen Security Systems, based in Barrie, ON, handles
notes that security personnel should be in plainclothes, “and the guard Smokecloak, an in-store security system that deters thieves by filling
carries the merchandise.” the shop with a non-toxic fog that makes it impossible to see anything.
The same product has been modified for use with armoured cars. “It
Overnight trips require further planning. “You have to follow your is actively being used in Europe for that application,” says company
insurance company, but in our experience, it’s much safer to put the president Kevin Paul. “It has been used since 2003.”
merchandise in your hotel room than the hotel safe or vault,” says
Kennedy. However, thieves will break in if the room is unoccupied. These points may seem basic, but, says Federico, if every jeweller followed
such simple rules as keeping the line locked securely in the car trunk and
“If you’re going from store to store, at the end of the day, leave the line at the never stopping en route, “he could prevent 90% to 95% of robberies.”
last store, where it’s properly alarmed,” Lamont suggests. “Many travelling
salespeople will obtain a waiver form from their insurance company that “You have a bad feeling,” says Sexton, “when people have a loss that
says they won’t hold the merchant responsible if they keep it in their store.” could have been prevented.” [CJ]
canadian jeweller ad.qxd:canadian jeweller ad.qxd 2/9/10 5:37 PM Page 1

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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 63

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Protect Your Prosperity
In the corporate world, security components need to be more than IT security, physical
security, and fraud prevention.

B
arbed wire compounds, steel trap doors, metal detectors, Businesses need to create security networks combining technology,
video surveillance cameras, rows of shielded militia perched resources, measures and procedures that are interconnected in the fight
motionlessly awaiting conflict; metaphors of protection, security against unlawful interference. Such networks do not come without a
and defense. Images that conjure up trepidation and safety. The point cost. The upside to this is that the amount of theft and damage created
is that threats or anticipated threats from vandals to terrorists force by the lack of a security network is typically far greater than the costs to
us to take measures to secure our lives, fortunes, liberties, autonomies put one in place. It is estimated that on average, businesses loose up to
and rights. 10% of their revenues per year as a result of poor or non-existent security
practices.
Attackers are constantly scheming of ingenious ways to penetrate
tightly controlled security systems, stripping us of our prosperity. When businesses and merchants practice correct security management,
When it comes to security, more often than not, assailants have the the likelihood of an incident is significantly reduced. Preparedness
upper hand. Property owners, merchants and institutions are forced becomes one of the best forms of defense and the better businesses are
to put in place security measures and protocols that cover all points of at assessing risk and preparing for it the more successful they become at
attack, while assailants only need to identify and focus on the weakest avoiding a breach.
point. Commitment to such protocols must be dynamic and ongoing. If
vulnerability is the weakness that potentially can be exploited, then the Security networks need to be entrenched in the fabric of any business
larger the organization, the greater its vulnerability. As threats become operation. Whether you are a jewellery store merchant or football
more sophisticated and companies more susceptible, security has moved stadium owner, specific security protocols need to be put in place to
from “maybe” to “mandatory” on the corporate “To Do” list. protect assets, systems, property and human resources. Threats and

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advertisingfeature

potential threats must be identified immediately and effectively dealt comes to security, INKAS® are prevention specialists. The Company’s
with. Threats, like any disease, virus or parasite, if left unchecked executives and engineers are risk management strategists, constantly
will continue to thrive, become more sophisticated in nature, develop analyzing situations, probing weaknesses and vulnerabilities and
resistance and evolve. developing tactical and affordable solutions.

INKAS® Security Services Ltd., a company whose mere existence is In spite of the security industry becoming very competitive, few
postured on the premise that threats subsist, continues to do combat companies offer multiple products and services in the same light
in the war against unlawful interference. Through its armed guard, as INKAS®. From its armed guard services to its storage facilities for
close protection, security officer, armed courier, armoured vehicle and bullion, precious metals and cash, INKAS® supplements the fibers to
safe manufacturing divisions, INKAS® offers multi layered protocols which security networks are woven.
of defense.
In order to thwart off perpetrators, companies need to display their
Where an alarm system may ward off an intruder, a strategically security networks as a fortress. The presence of an armed guard sends
placed sign promoting the alarm system may prevent the window a very strong message to both customers and criminals. And although
from actually getting broken – an effective measure of prevention and it is not possible to guarantee that all threats can be totally eliminated,
deterrence. Whether you are a merchant, jeweller, trade show operator businesses that engage in the services provided by INKAS® can take
or institution, preventative measures are vital for protection. When it pride in knowing that they are gaining the upper hand. [CJ]
For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 81

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 65

064-065.CJ_Inkas.indd 65 2/11/10 11:05:25 AM


Full Replacement
No waiting. No hassles. No extra fees. The worldwide web
as data insurance.
By A mber K laehn

W
hile at first glance it may seem counterintuitive to look to the With any type of loss comes the need for disaster recovery. Few retailers
Internet for security, web applications can provide essential have disaster-recovery policies and procedures in place; and the lack of
protection and insurance for the jewellery retailer – protecting a plan for data loss or server crashes can be devastating to a business,
valuable data against loss, fire, theft and/or virus. costing time and money to get back up and running. The advantage of
web applications is that it only takes plugging in a new computer and
The protection lies in secure, off-site (online) storage of the business’ getting online to be back in business. Of course the important part of
records through a web-based service. choosing the right web application is to do the due diligence on the
security of the system.
Loss protection: web-based data management means the retailer no
longer needs to back up data. One of the most important management As with any insurance policy, it is important to examine the fine detail
tasks is ensuring that software and business information is backed up – the difference an ‘s’ makes for example. The standard Internet address
to an external device to protect against system failures. And yet, most bar typically starts with http:// and follows with the web address. ‘Http’
retailers do not back up their data on a regular basis. They often forget is insecure and subject to man-in-the-middle and eavesdropping attacks
to check and monitor that the backups are performing correctly. One of which make it easy for hackers to gain access to website accounts and
the biggest stumbling blocks is time: data back up can take up to several sensitive information.
hours per day, depending on the software. With a web-based application,
data is saved and secured automatically. An ‘s’ added onto ‘http’, thus https:// signals a secure connection with
an extra layer of encrypted data that is used for authentication. ‘Https’
Fire or theft protection: the web advantage is that data is stored off-site. connections are often used for payment transactions over the Internet
and for sensitive transactions in corporate information systems. ‘Https’
Virus protection: a virus can spread to other computers on an internal is secure, and is designed to withstand eavesdroppers and hackers.
network and cause data loss if the server becomes infected. The superior
security of a web-application means data is unaffected by local viruses A secure web service company is one that has successfully completed a
and hardware issues. statement on auditing standards No 70 (SAS70) Type II Audit and has

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techfeature

Tips
Email Best Practice
Modify your main email address for specific applications
such as signing up for e-bulletins or newsletters. For
example, your address is aname@mymail.com. If I were to
sign up for a newsletter or email alert, I would add ‘-cj’ to
the base: aname-cj@mymail.com. This provides a couple
of benefits: if you receive unsolicited email at the modified
address, then you know that your email address was sold
and distributed by the company signed up with; if that’s the
case, you can easily add the modified email address to a
obtained a favourable, unbiased opinion from its independent auditors.
junk filter without disrupting main email address.
SAS70 certifies that a service organization has had an in-depth audit of
the controls it has in place for operational performance and security to
Protect your email addresses by never posting them on
safeguard customer data.
your website. Email harvesters (spambots) crawl the web
to find and extract addresses from web pages. They add
Amazon Web Services for example, with the world’s largest computing
these to their database for junk mail. Rather than posting
infrastructure, Amazon’s EC2, has undergone such an audit and
your email address as a means for people to contact you,
provides the latest in data security, privacy and protection.
make your contact mechanism a contact form.

Working in conjunction with web-based applications, software can


Passwords Best Practice
provide further protection against theft. The right software helps
1. Password Age: Change your password every 30 to 90
prevent employee theft – of client data, inventory and/or time. Software
days. This way, if someone cracks a password, access
can be used to track hours and monitor productivity. Programs can be
will be limited by expiry.
put in place to track all employee-usage of data applications, including
running unauthorized reports, downloading and exporting client data.
2. Password Complexity: A combination of length, seven
Inventory management soft ware provides more accurate recording and
or more characters, use of upper and lower case, and
tracking than a manual system and is another theft-deterrent. (An added
numerals and/or keyboard symbols make the most secure
advantage of inventory control software is that in the case of loss due to
passwords. For example: Meat25balls or Spag#S%etti.
theft, it provides accurate records that can dramatically reduce the time
and work involved in settling an insurance claim.)
3. Password History: Your software system should
remember several previous passwords, which prevents
Considering all the vulnerabilities retailers face in regards to data and
users from re-using a password after expiration.
inventory security it just makes sense to take advantage of the most
secure and sophisticated technology available. It’s added insurance. [CJ]

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 67

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Sparkling Statements
Bid adieu to Old Man Winter and add some sparkle
to your style with the trends celebs will be sporting
as 2010 warms up BY BONNIE SIEGLER
Thandie Newton
Neither rain, nor snow could keep the sparkle and shine under wraps
when Hollywood stars saunter in their jewellery. Since there’s always a
party or premiere to accessorize, let’s take a look at what the jewels the
stars will be wearing for the coming year.

Charlize Theron To display some spectacular special effects of


her own at the “2012” premiere, co-star Thandie
Newton chose a Yvel baroque pearl and 18k white
gold diamond ring ($32,830) to showcase.

Charlize Theron always makes a statement whether in movie or


fashion. At the 13th Hollywood Awards Gala in Beverly Hills,
the Oscar winner chose to adorn her slender fingers with a large
20 carat turquoise and gold Neil Lane cocktail ring ($6,500.00).

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starwatch

Maggie Grace

Maggie Grace looked ethereal and graceful at Hilary Swank


the Jimmy Choo for H&M event in November.
To set off her white cut-out bodice gown,
the actress chose Yvel’s south sea pearl drop
earrings with black diamond leaves ($21,950).

Arriving at the premiere of her movie, “Amelia” in New York,


two-time Oscar winner Hilary Swank sparkled in Neil Lane’s
diamond and platinum drop earrings, wearing 10 carats
in each ear ($500,000) plus a diamond and platinum ruffle
bracelet with 30 carats of diamonds ($250,000).

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Crime Report Canadian jewellery crimes rise as U.S. figures fall.
BY SARAH B . HOOD

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securityfeature

T
he Canadian jewellery industry has been facing a serious analysts believe that there has literally been a movement of criminal
increase in crime over the past year. Although numerous factors activity from the U.S. to Canada.
are at play, including new money-laundering legislation, experts
believe that organized gangs of criminals have recently moved from the Looking closer at the Canadian figures provided by JVC, one sees that of the
U.S. into Canada, and that they are targeting sales people travelling 44 robberies reported in 2009, six of these involved travelling salespersons,
with jewellery merchandise. Sharing information across various accounting for losses of $2,950,000. (There were also six assaults, with
segments of the industry is one of the strongest defences against this losses of $1,657,000 and 32 armed robberies ($3,825,000.00).
upsurge in criminal activity.
Of the 60 thefts that took place across Canada in 2009, 10 involved
The most recent Canadian statistics available from Jewellers Vigilance travelling salespersons, and represented a total of $2,140,800 in losses.
Canada (JVC), updated to December 15, 2009, show a very significant spike Other types of crimes included distraction (16 incidents representing
in robberies in the past year. To illustrate: 2007 saw 12 reported robberies a total of $462,715); grab-and-run (19 incidents and $172,548), and
involving merchandise worth a total of $2,841,000. In 2008, there were 28 smash-and-grab (15 incidents and $1,030,980).
incidents, with a comparatively lower total value of $2,403,999. However, in
2009, 44 incidents were reported, with total losses estimated at $8,432,000 These statistics are the best available information, but they still may
– well over three times the previous year’s dollar figures. not paint the complete picture. “Most jewellery crime in Canada is not
reported; it’s really hard to get a handle on the full extent of jewellery
Other types of crimes also increased, though not to the same alarming extent. crime,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice President, Loss Prevention with
In 2007, there were 11 break-and-enter crimes, with losses of $3,329,673. In Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, who was recently elected to the
2008, losses dropped slightly, with 21 incidents valued at a total of $1,455,000. board of Jewelers’ Security Alliance.
There were 20 incidents in 2009 ($2,049,844). When it comes to thefts,
2007 saw 92 incidents with a total value of $1,511,296. In 2008 there were Sexton points out that one explanation for the drop in the U.S. crime
61 incidents ($2,736,546), and 2009 saw 60 incidents ($3,807,043). statistics is the financial slowdown. “You have fewer people travelling in the
States; with fewer people out there, you’re going to have fewer incidents,” he
Taken altogether, JVC reports total dollar figures for jewellery crime says. However, he also believes that U.S. crackdowns on South American
losses as $7,681,969 in 2007, $6,595,545 in 2008 and $14,288,887 in 2009. crime gangs have forced their activity north of the border.
The dramatic increase in 2009 runs exactly counter to crime trends in
the U.S., where some analysts had predicted higher rates of jewellery “This first came to my attention, about two years ago when I was down
crime because of the country’s straitened economic situation. However, in Florida doing a crime seminar with Jewelers’ Security Alliance,”
preliminary 2009 figures provided by Jewelers’ Security Alliance show says John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention for JVC. “New York
a drop in total jewellery crime losses in the U.S. to 1,505 incidents City police gave a presentation on South American gangs that target
(representing losses of $93.7 million) in 2009, from 1,527 incidents travelling salesmen who are carrying jewellery.”
($105.3 million) in 2008.
In the presentation, Lamont learned that well organized gangs had
Robberies in the U.S. accounted for 219 incidents involving losses of been active in the U.S. for some time, with “probably in excess of 750
$26.6 million in 2008, and 244 incidents involving $32 million in 2009. members spread around in New York City, Miami and Houston,” he
says. However, because of pressure that had been brought to bear by
U.S. jewellery thefts rose slightly, from 794 incidents and $14.3- million local police authorities and the FBI, the New York officers believed, they
in 2008 to 826 incidents and $16.8-million in 2009. The occurrence of were now moving into Canada.
burglaries stayed approximately even; 208 saw 325 incidents and
$21.4-million, while 2009 saw 307 incidents and $21.3-million. On the “When I came back to Canada, I was aware of a travelling salesman who
other hand, off-premise crimes dropped significantly, from 189 incidents had been robbed of his merchandise in an Ontario mall. I contacted
and losses of $43-million in 2008 to 128 incidents and $23.6-million in York Regional Police and passed on the information. As a result, four or
209. This drop is of great significance to the Canadian situation. In fact, five South Americans were arrested for that crime,” Lamont says.

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securityfeature

“If the government is keeping track of large sums


of money, then diamonds and gold can become
a source of cash in the underworld.”

“These are gangs from South America who are almost always illegal several in Vancouver, and most recently in Winnipeg, so they’re very
immigrants and who are specifically targeting the jewellery industry,” mobile; they travel a lot,” says Lamont, who estimates the average loss
says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance. “Virtually per theft at about $100,000.
everyone arrested in these crimes is from Columbia or neighbouring
countries. These gangs operate worldwide: in Hong Kong, at trade shows However, South American gang activity is probably not the only
in China – can you imagine how they would stand out there, and the explanation for the increase in jewellery crime in Canada. “There is
draconian penalties? – and in Dubai, England, France, Italy. For a year another occurrence that jewellers are plagued by: grab-and-run, where
or two they have felt that there were fertile fields in Canada, and that is the thief will look at a piece and then run out of the store. They’ll either
why we have seen this upsurge” target a large diamond or an expensive watch. There has been a real rash
of jewellery store robberies in the Vancouver area,” Lamont says.
The gang activity is simple but effective. “They will actually do months
of surveillance on jewellery locations, and when they see the travelling “I’m not suggesting that these are being carried out by South Americans;
salesman carrying a bag from store to store, they follow him,” Lamont I think it’s completely different. The economic environment may have
says. “They also look for loose diamond events or special watch something to do with it, and there may be more than one group. These
promotions, and that’s what they would target. They would also target incidents usually happen at opening or around closing because there
trade shows.” would be fewer people in the store at those times,” he adds.

Initially, most of these crimes involved distraction thefts. These “In Canada, there’s another issue, in relation to money laundering; as of
might take the form of thieves approaching a salesperson unloading December 31, 2008, Canada brought into force a money laundering act,”
merchandise from the car, and drawing his attention to a $20 bill they Lamont continues. Known officially as The Proceeds of Crime (Money
say he has just dropped in an attempt to get him to take his hands off Laundering) and Terrorist Financing Act (PCMLTFA) and administered
the merchandise long enough for them to simply grab them and run to by the Financial Transactions and Reports Analysis Centre of Canada,
a waiting vehicle. However, the thefts can be more violent, and involve or FINTRAC, the legislation requires financial institutions and others
weapons or threats of physical violence. covered by the legislation to identify customers who conduct financial
transactions, such as depositing funds or buying a money order.
“In the U.S. we’ve seen a great increase in the use of knives to threaten
people. A lot of them used to be stealth; they used to try to trick the But the legislation may be having unintended consequences for the
salesperson into putting down their bag by asking for directions, asking jewellery industry. “If the government is keeping track of large sums
for change, telling them there’s dirt on their coat,” says Kennedy. “The of money, then diamonds and gold can become a source of cash in the
principle place it happens is parking lots outside hotels, retail stores, underworld,” Lamont points out.
restaurants. In the U.S. we’ve seen attacks on jewellers in their homes
and driveways; I don’t think you’ve seen that in Canada.” No matter why incidents occur, “What people have to realize is that some
robbery is not preventable,” says Lamont. “JVC strongly recommends
“The trend is that there will be a rash of these types of occurrences that jewellers never resist in these situations; jewellery can be replaced,
around the Toronto area; then there’ll be a rash in Calgary; we’ve had but lives cannot.” [CJ]

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what’son

upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact paul@rivegauchemedia.com

February | Canada IIJS Signature Goa March | MJSA Expo New York
Alberta Gift Show February 19 - 22 international March 14 - 16
February 21 - 24 Kala Academy International Gem & Jewelry Show Hilton New York
Edmonton Expo Centre, Panjim, Goa, India March 5 - 7 New York, New York
Northlands +91 22 2652 4791 Denver Merchandise Mart 401-274-3840 or 1-800-444-6572
Edmonton, Alberta signature@gjepcindia.com Denver, Colorado info@mjsa.org
416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 www.iijs-signature.org 301-294-1640 www.mjsa.org
www.albertagiftshow.com info@intergem.net
Grapevine Gem, Jewelry www.intergem.com Baselworld
February | & Bead Show March 18 - 25
international February 26 - 28 HKTDC Hong Kong Messe Basel
Business to Business Gem Grapevine Convention Center International Jewellery Show Basel, Switzerland
Trade Show Grapevine, Texas March 5 - 9 +41 58 206 25 25
504-455-6101 visitor@baselworld.com
February 4 - 12 Hong Kong Convention
info@aksshow.com and Exhibition Centre www.baselworld.com
Gem Mall
Tucson, Arizona www.aksshow.com Wan Chai, Hong Kong, China
601-879-8832 +852 1830 668 International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@glwshows.com International Gem & Jewelry Show exhibitions@hktdc.org March 19 - 21
www.glwshows.com February 26 - 28 hkjewellery.hktdc.com Lester Palmer Event Center
Chase Center on the Riverfront Austin, Texas
Tucson Gem & Mineral Show Wilmington, Delaware International Gem & Jewelry Show 301-294-1640
301-294-1640 March 6 - 7 info@intergem.net
February 11 - 14
info@intergem.net Southfield Pavilion, Southfield www.intergem.com
Tucson Convention Center
Tucson, Arizona www.intergem.com Municipal Complex
520-322-5773 Southfield, Michigan International Gem & Jewelry Show
tgms@tgms.org International Gem & Jewelry Show 301-294-1640 March 19 - 21
www.tgms.org February 26 - 28 info@intergem.net DoubleTree Hotel - Lloyd Center
The Queen Mary www.intergem.com Portland, Oregon
International Gem & Jewelry Show Long Beach, California 301-294-1640
301-294-1640 info@intergem.net
February 12 - 14 International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net March 12 - 14 www.intergem.com
Valley Forge Convention Plaza
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania www.intergem.com Veterans Memorial
301-294-1640 Columbus, Ohio International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net JA New York Winter Show 301-294-1640 March 26 - 28
www.intergem.com February 28 - March 2 info@intergem.net Seattle Center
Javits Center www.intergem.com Seattle, Washington
International Gem & Jewelry Show New York, New York 301-294-1640
508-743-8506 info@intergem.net
February 19 - 21 International Gem & Jewelry Show
ja@xpressreg.net. March 12 - 14 www.intergem.com
Dulles Expo Center
Chantilly, Virginia www.ja-newyork.com Expo New Mexico
301-294-1640 Albuquerque, New Mexico International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net March | Canada 301-294-1640 March 26 - 28
www.intergem.com Montreal Gift Show info@intergem.net Gateway Center
March 7 - 10 www.intergem.com Collinsville, Illinois
Place Bonaventure 301-294-1640
Montreal, Quebec info@intergem.net
416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 www.intergem.com
www.montrealgiftshow.com

w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 73

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showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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showcase
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showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
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For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Sarah Perkin 416-203-7900 ext. 6126, sarah@rivegauchemedia.com or Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.

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80 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

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PAGE GET FREE INFORMATION! on any product advertised in this issue
sectionhead
81 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

2. Use this quick


BY FAX 1. See product you reference list 3. Write the 4. Mail or fax us at 5. Receive free info
want info on below to find its number(s) on 1-888-849-0155 direct from as
OR MAIL free info number the attached free or 416-703-6392 many advertisers
(it’s also on the ad) info card as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write #


Siffari 2 101 Ready Mounts 53 118

Stuller 3 102 Sanghavi 59 119

Jewellers Mutual 4-5 103 Low Cost Leader 61 120

Blue Point 8 104 the Smart Jewelery Show 63 121

Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC) 9 105 Inkas 65 122

Chamilia 11 106 Jomark 83 123

O’Neill Diamonds 13 107 Mirage Creations 84 112

Pandora 15 108 Atlanic Engraving Ltd. 16 124

Open Blue Networks 17 109 Mirage Creations 16 125

Atlantic Engraving 19 110 Pandora 16 126

Eternal Diamonds 21 111 Jeweler’s Mutual 18 127

Nova Diamonds 25 112 Jomark 18 128

Rousseau Chain Imports 27 113 Chamilia 18 129

MCD Pearls 27 114 JSN Jewellery 20 130

Pacific Urns 33 115 Vianna 20 131

Butterfly Gems 41 116 Stuller 20 132

*FREE
Vianna Brasil 51 117

Info Card & Subscription


To receive free information you must print clearly and fill out form completely.

 Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine  No, don’t send

STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store


 under 1,000 sq.ft.  1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your  3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft.  over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________  Education
Approximate annual sales volume
 under $500,000
 Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________  Manufacturer
 $500,000 - $1 million
 $1 million - $5 million
 Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________  $5 million - $10 million
 Importer
 $10 million - $20 million
 Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________  over $20 million
 Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________  Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
 Retailer  Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________  1-3  4-8  9-12  over 13  Gemologist  Supplier
 Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________  Other _________________________________

STEP 3 Reserved exclusively for retailers


FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010
WRITE IN THE NUMBERS HERE FOR
EACH PRODUCT YOU WANT MORE Example
DETAILED INFORMATION ON

USE QUICK REFERENCE LIST AT TOP OF PAGE


101
STEP 4

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

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lastword

Writer George Bernard Shaw once said:

“ Imagination is the beginning of creation. You


what you desire, you will what you imagine and at last
imagine
you create what you will.”
As a long-time fan of David Tishbi, I have often thought his designs break the barrier between the old the new, and the traditional and the unconventional. With over a
decade under his belt, David has brought his designs to the forefront, attracting a loyal following of clients. With his collection handcrafted in Israel, we chose a piece that
shows his unique “two-tone” process, juxtaposing gold and sterling silver. This oxidized and hammered spinner ring is exotically textured, and the gradually flaring edges
contain three two-toned spinning bands in sterling silver and 14k gold. It’s the perfect blend of raw, organic creativity with polished sophistication. Valued at $399.
— Paul Aguirre

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Diemmeffe
Chic, classic, outstanding enriching
and versatile jewels.

JOMARK
DISTRIBUTORS
Luxurious... Opulence... Lavishness
First in Distributing the
World’s Finest Italian Jewellery!

John Di Scola
Tel: (416)606-0369 Fax: (905)264-8419 email:jomarkgold@yahoo.com

For details, write #123 on Free Info Page, page 81

Jomark.indd 10
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2/11/10 10:51:42
3:36:42 PM
AM
PRM215
PRM200

PRM257

Mirage Creations Inc.


221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com

For details, write #112 on Free Info Page, page 81

cjFebMar10_Mirage_Ad.indd 1 2/11/10 3:37:15 PM

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