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Canadian Jeweller Magazine - February Issue
Canadian Jeweller Magazine - February Issue
Est.
$
25
1879
canadian jeweller
magazine
the business of retailing jewellery
Travel Security
Keeping your guard
up – on the road
New Beginnings
An introduction to the long-awaited
Diamond Bourse of Canada
Undimmed Radiance
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M4W 3B8 | $25
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ALL THE LATEST MARKET NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS
Siffari Jewellery Co. Limited, 55 Gervais Drive, Toronto, Ontario, M3C 1Z2
Tel: 416-441-1010 Fax: 416-441-6188 1-800-387-0111
www.siffari.com email: contact@siffari.com
For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 81
Because quality craftsmanship is what you aspire to, we manufacture our findings to
the highest professional standards. Our job is to enhance your skills with the largest
selection, highest quality, and most innovative tools and findings available today.
Experience our dedication to you firsthand and unlock your imagination.
Canadian contact:
866.815.5511 www.stuller.com
The DTC logo is a trade mark used under license from DTC.
For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 81
Canadian Jewellers Association is the voice of the Canadian jewellery Jewelers Mutual was founded by jewellers in 1913 and remains
industry, providing leadership in ethics, education and communication. the leading insurer solely dedicated to insuring jewellery and the
Here are some of the benefits you will enjoy by becoming a member: jewellery industry. Here are just some of the benefits you’ll receive:
• Participate in consumer outreach branding program leading to • Customize your insurance policy whether you are a retailer,
increased jewellery sales. manufacturer, wholesaler, designer, or appraiser.
• Receive promotional rates on education courses such as JETS • Get superior claims service – 99.9% of our policyholders rate
(Jewellery Education Training System), including free access to our claim service as good or excellent.
JM University, and online security training course offered through
• Gain free access to Jewelers Mutual’s library of security
Jewelers Mutual.
training courses and materials.
• Receive extensive and evolving member benefit programs resulting
• Depend on an insurance company that is financially sound
in substantial cost savings.
and has been rated A+ Superior for 23 years.
• Benefit from CJA advocacy with all levels of government and learn
Contact us today for a free quote.
about new laws and regulations specific to our industry.
Become a member today by visiting www.canadianjewellers.com
and completing a membership application.
Chipped stone. Lost ring. Damaged watch. Customers can be really hard on their jewellery!
Now your customers can insure their prized possessions with Personal Jewelry Insurance from
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, the only insurer that specializes exclusively in protecting jewellery
and jewellery businesses in Canada* and the United States.
So when your customer has a jewellery mishap, you can be the hero! With Personal Jewelry Insurance from
Jewelers Mutual, your customers can return to you, their jeweller of choice, for repairs or replacements.
To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with
your customers, visit www.JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411.
800-558-6411 • www.JewelersMutual.ca
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
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Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Toronto, Canada Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40678000. The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all
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material. Please direct submissions to the Editor, Canadian. Return undeliverable items to Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Ste. 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8.
8 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
40 Undimmed Radiance
Taking a closer look at why pearls are still a big ticket item
with long-lasting value.
44 New Beginnings
After months of planning (and years of waiting),
the Diamond Bourse of Canada is finally here.
66
Full Replacement
How the Internet can be one of your best insurance
tools yet.
70
Crime Report
An update on the industry’s crime rates and statistics.
34
10 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
16 Product Showcase
22
Who’s News
68 Star Watch
Remembering Harold Weinstein; New Grace Kelly Sparkling Statements.
collection.
73 What’s On
24
For The Record
GIA NY relocates; Hublot opens new Paris boutique;
Toywatch creates limited edition watch for Haiti relief. 74 Showcase
29 Stock Index
77 Marketplace
30 Mining News
81 Fax Back
All the happenings in the mining sector.
32
JVC’s Crime Report 82 Last Word
This is a true story: a jeweller recounts the day his life
changed forever.
54 Company Profile
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company.
56 Designer Profile
Ian Suade.
68
12 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Design-focused
Retailing
I am delighted to serve as guest editor of this issue
by introducing custom jeweller and appointment-only
retailer John de Jong as the subject of this issue’s cover
story. I have known John as a colleague and as a friend for
18 years, and I have long admired his talent for both the
business and design side of the jewellery industry.
John de Jong is an international traveller and man of
great elegance and style who has done a remarkable and
impressive job of offering custom design jewellery. His
unique style, which involves the use of unique, beautiful and
often rare gems has opened up the world of jewellery to
a discerning clientele, particularly in Canada, where his
clients can discover the best of the world of jewellery. His
international lifestyle, including maintaining an office in
Switzerland, ensures that de Jong’s designs are continuously
fresh, exciting and leading-edge.
The cover story about John and his unique jewellery
business, on page 34 of this issue, offers insight into the degree
of commitment it takes to achieve success as a “second-floor”
retailer.
Andrea Hopson
Andrea Hopson
Vice-President, Tiffany & Co.
Guest Editor
14 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
...MAKE THEM
UNFORGETTABLE
DESIGN YOUR UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS WITH PANDORA CHARMS, RINGS, NECKLACES, AND EARRINGS IN STERLING SILVER AND 14K GOLD
PANDORA-JEWELRY.COM
Individual Expression
For half a century, Atlantic Engraving Ltd. has been
an industry leader, and as third generation jewellers,
has taken the ultimate symbol of commitment beyond
the wedding band and classic eternity ring. Featuring
coloured metals and unique finishes, an Atlantic ring
is an expression of individuality. Each ring produced is
made of seamless tubing and is cut with diamond tipped
tools on the highest state-of-the-art European machinery,
and no ring leaves the factory without extensive quality
control. For more information, write 124 on the Free Info
Card on page 81.
Pacific Urns
Pacific Urns has, in a short time become the largest
supplier of quality Urn Jewellery with distributors in
Canada, USA, United Kingdom and Australia. They have
also recently launched a complete Pet Line. Each Pacific
Urns design is available in all precious metals and with
or without diamonds. Each Jewellery Urn includes a gold
or silver chain to match your selection, a Cherry Wood
accent or burgundy display box, solid sterling silver
scoop to assist in filling, cleaning cloth to keep your
pendant looking its best, instructions on filling, sealing
and maintaining your pendant and an unconditional
lifetime warranty on your sterling silver chain. For more
information, write 126 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
16 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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Chic, classic, outstanding enriching and versatile jewel
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gold jewellery, JOMARK’s high standards and passion,
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gold distributor, JOMARK For more information, write
128 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
18 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
www.atlanticengraving.com
1435 St. Alexander #455 - Montreal, Quebec H3A-2G4
Tel. 1 800 267 7823 ~ 514 845 8257 - E-mail: atlanticeng@bellnet.ca
For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 81
Siffari
A tradition in excellence continues with Siffari’s Signature
Collection. Manufactured entirely in Canada, Siffari has
combined unique design and detailed craftsmanship in
this stunning collection. Featured here is a 14K two-tone
gold ring with 0.21 cts of natural yellow diamonds and
.61 cts of white diamonds. For more information, write
130 on the Free Info Card on page 81.
Mirage
There are many ways to describe Nova’s new
tourmaline and chalcedony rings. A few words that
come to mind are stylish, trendy, and funky. Ranging
from 3 carats of black and white diamonds to over
6 carats meshed with the breathtaking centre gems,
these rings are unique and tremendously detailed.
For more information call Nova @ (416) 868-6682.
For more information, write 125 on the Free Info Card
on page 81.
Stuller
Get a luxurious look for less with this freshwater pearl
ensemble from Stuller! The lengthy 38-inch necklace
creates a dramatic, stylish look featuring 12.00-13.00MM
Freshwater Cultured White Coin pearls and sterling
silver. The earrings, also showcasing Freshwater White
Coin pearls and sterling are the perfect compliment to
complete this duo. For more information, write 132 on
the Free Info Card on page 81.
20 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 23
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w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 27
PANDORA Opens First Toronto will feature a signature selection from all six and Sea, Light and Fun. Beauty Drops bring
Retail Store; Introduces Layering Victorinox Swiss Army product categories: water forth in a purifying role, so the pieces
Collections cutlery, Swiss Army knives, timepieces, travel in this collection focus on droplet-like crystal
PANDORA has opened its first retail gear, fashion and fragrance. The store has cuts and wave-like shapes and movement. The
store in downtown Toronto, located in the been entirely merchandised to reflect the Marina Blue collection is inspired by coral
Royal Bank Plaza underground shopping Victorinox Swiss Army brand. The location reefs and shells – bright pieces with textures
concourse. The Denmark-based company is of the pop-up store is Keir Fine Jewellery, a created from red- and blue-coloured crystals.
known for its customizable charm bracelet local retailer that carries Victorinox Swiss Sea, Light and Fun pieces are just that –
and versatile jewellery collections that Army timepieces and Swiss Army knives, playful, and inspired by the creatures of the
include more than 3,000 designs. Looking and will be restored to its original state sea. Pieces like the Elvis and Erika pendants
ahead to spring, PANDORA has also created as Keir Fine Jewellery after the Olympics. (a crystal-covered crab and water droplet,
customizable, stackable collections for “Having a presence in Whistler during the respectively) and other accessories inspired
layering. The Moments collection includes Games makes a lot of sense for our brand,” by beach games characterize this collection.
sterling silver and/or leather cord bracelets said Victorinox Swiss Army president
with PANDORA’s signature gold, silver, Rick Taggart. “Victorinox Swiss Army is Swarovski’s also going through the Looking
glass or eco-friendly wood bead charms; internationally recognized and our quality Glass with a line inspired by Tim Burton’s
the LovePods collection includes 18K gold products are designed for people who remake of Alice in Wonderland, set to hit
rings with precious gemstones; and the appreciate active lifestyles.” theatres in March. In collaboration with
Ring Upon Ring collection includes 14K Disney, the collection of luxe, limited-
gold and sterling silver rings. The common Swarovski’s Spring Bling edition jewellery includes a Sparrow rose
denominator in these collections is the Water is a huge symbolic influence in gold necklace – worn by Alice in the film, in
layering effect, to create an infinite number Swarovki’s Spring/Summer 2010 line. This fact – as well as other necklaces and bracelets
of unique styles. is surely a trend we’ll continue to see more with cupcake, teapot, heart, playing card
of, due to the basic element’s fluid form, and Cheshire Cat charms, to name a few –
Victorinox Swiss Army Opens reflective surface, and gleaming qualities – all encrusted with crystals and diamonds.
Whistler Village Pop-Up Store all characteristics that play perfectly into the There’s also a White Rabbit pendant,
Victorinox Swiss Army, has opened a brand creative design and functionality of jewellery. complete with mini pocket watch –the watch
pop-up store in Whistler Village for the Swarovski’s Spring/Summer 2010 line has doesn’t run, however, so you’ll have to ensure
months of February and March. The store three variations – Beauty Drops, Marina Blue you’re not late for a very important date.
28 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
The limited-edition watches – the Neon Alamos Gold AGI TSX $12.380 $12.210 -1.37% $14.200 $7.250 $42.7 28.09 1,329.00
Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU NYSE $43.650 $38.800 -11.11% $47.520 $25.080 $1,140.0 30.47 10,903.00
style, in white, black, dark gray and purple – Barrick Gold Corp. ABX TSX $45.100 $38.310 -15.06% $50.530 $32.690 $2,102.0 N/A 37,657.00
retail for $300. According to Toywatch, the Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN NYSE $39.840 $33.080 -16.97% $42.690 $15.670 $214.7 26.15 8,417.00
Canadian government will match all funds Eldorado Gold ELD TSX $14.250 $14.020 -1.61% $15.890 $8.510 $83.0 29.22 5,610.00
First Quantum Minerals FM TSX $81.590 $90.490 10.91% $100.320 $21.010 $527.5 N/A 7,107.00
contributed by February 12, 2010 to specific Freeport-McMoRan Copper&Gold FCX NYSE $79.870 $76.280 -4.49% $90.550 $21.160 $4,144.0 278.4 31,412.00
organizations. Gammon Gold GAM TSX $12.080 $10.100 -16.39% $13.190 $6.150 $52.8 117.78 1,256.00
Gold Fields Ltd. (ADR) GFI NYSE $14.620 $12.320 -15.73% $15.880 $8.100 $948.3 28.48 8,684.00
Goldcorp Inc. G TSX $44.660 $38.820 -13.08% $48.370 $32.360 $696.7 24.11 28,443.00
Argen and Watier Announce Harmony Gold Mining Co. (ADR) HMY NYSE $11.120 $9.730 -12.50% $13.250 $8.060 $351.9 67.07 4,145.00
Distribution Agreement Iamgold Corp. IMG TSX $19.240 $15.090 -21.57% $21.950 $7.710 $260.4 109.13 5,553.00
Ivanhoe Mines IVN TSX $12.550 $16.310 29.96% $18.490 $3.200 $9.5 N/A 6,171.00
Argen Corporation of San Diego, California Kinross Gold K TSX $21.560 $18.610 -13.68% $25.220 $16.520 $595.2 N/A 12,948.00
and Watier Findings of Vancouver have Lundin Mining LUN TSX $4.700 $4.520 -3.83% $5.180 $0.690 $192.1 N/A 2,620.00
announced an agreement that will see Newmont Mining NMC TSX $55.000 $47.220 -14.15% $59.600 $42.540 $2,049.0 24.69 21,319.00
Northgate Minerals Corp. NGX TSX $3.460 $3.140 -9.25% $3.700 $1.210 $132.3 21.93 912.00
Watier Findings buy and distribute gold Pan American Silver PAA TSX $27.250 $23.810 -12.62% $28.730 $16.190 $119.5 N/A 2,077.00
and platinum metal products. The products PolyMet Mining Corp. POM TSX $2.610 $3.420 31.03% $3.890 $0.720 $0.1 N/A 476.00
Randgold Resources Ltd. (ADR) GOLD Nasdaq $82.220 $75.130 -8.62% $90.300 $38.321 $103.3 125.89 6,218.00
will consist of casting grains in 10k, 14k Red Back Mining Inc. RBI TSX $15.300 $16.930 10.65% $18.410 $6.280 $95.3 39.31 3,908.00
and 18k in white, yellow, green, and russian Silver Wheaton SLW TSX $17.150 $15.840 -7.64% $18.360 $7.260 $76.7 93.83 5,405.00
red, platinum, palladium, as well as 14k Southern Copper Corp. PCU NYSE $33.610 $30.570 -9.04% $36.980 $12.600 $1,151.8 61.06 25,985.00
Taseko Mines Ltd. TGB AMEX $3.980 $4.800 20.60% $5.650 $0.750 $44.8 22.05 917.00
and 18k palladium mixes. All products will Teck Resources Ltd. TCK.B TSX $36.550 $39.740 8.73% $42.780 $3.350 $2,524.0 28.4 23,395.00
be distributed out of the Watier offices in Thompson Creek Metals Co. Inc. TCM TSX $12.310 $13.760 11.78% $16.500 $3.480 $126.7 488.67 1,915.00
Vancouver. Joe Rosen, general manager Yamana Gold Inc. YRI TSX $13.570 $11.290 -16.80% $15.000 $8.370 $336.9 23.96 8,278.00
another distributor marketing [my] product Azure Resources Corp. AZU TSX-V $0.130 $0.090 -30.77% $0.150 $0.050 $0.0 4.75 8.00
BHP Billiton Ltd. BHP NYSE $75.270 $74.720 -0.73% $82.740 $33.090 N/A 37.04 125,468.00
in Canada, especially one with a strong Diamond Fields Intl. DFI TSX $0.075 $0.070 -6.67% $0.110 $0.025 $0.9 N/A 3.00
broad-based clientele and product line, as Diamond North Resources DDN TSX-V $0.310 $0.300 -3.23% $0.395 $0.100 N/A 30.51 23.00
Dios Exploration DOS TSX-V $0.180 $0.190 5.56% $0.250 $0.075 N/A N/A 7.00
Watier Findings possesses.” Adds Roland Equinox Minerals Ltd. EQN TSX $4.090 $3.650 -10.76% $4.680 $1.180 62.3 97.25 2,572.00
Watier, owner of Watier Findings, “This Harry Winston Diamond HW TSX $10.190 $10.960 7.56% $13.280 $2.190 $82.4 N/A 839.00
agreement allows us to pursue seamless Mountain Province Diamonds MPV TSX $2.370 $2.430 2.53% $3.310 $0.730 $0.0 N/A 154.00
Moydow Mines Intl. Inc. MOY TSX $0.780 $0.850 8.97% $1.000 $0.070 $0.0 N/A 51.00
distribution of casting alloys, to complement Peregrine Diamonds Ltd. PGD TSX $1.630 $2.260 38.65% $4.650 $0.460 0.3 N/A 184.00
our current product line of over 5,000 items Rio Tinto plc (ADR) RTP NYSE $207.900 $212.980 2.44% $240.430 $80.460 N/A N/A 53,085.00
we currently carry.” Sanatana Diamonds Inc. STA TSX-V $0.100 $0.130 30.00% $0.250 $0.050 N/A N/A 8.00
Shear Minerals Ltd. SRM TSX-V $0.060 $0.095 58.33% $0.120 $0.035 N/A N/A 8.00
Starfield Resources Inc. SRU TSX $0.095 $0.105 10.53% $0.290 $0.085 N/A N/A 35.00
NWT Holds Diamond Stornoway Diamond SWY TSX $0.270 $0.590 118.52% $0.730 $0.080 N/A N/A 155.00
True North Gems TGX TSX-V $0.090 $0.100 11.11% $0.215 $0.070 N/A N/A 7.00
Industry Showcase Vale (ADR) VALE NYSE $28.220 $28.690 1.67% $31.960 $11.820 N/A 49.87 138,573.00
A four-day diamond industry showcase in the
Jewellers & Retailers
Northwest Territories took place February 1-4
Birks & Mayors BMJ AMEX $0.950 $0.960 1.04% $1.800 $0.200 N/A N/A 11.00
at Canada’s Northern House. Top experts were Fossil Inc. FOSL Nasdaq $31.780 $35.300 11.08% 36..61 $11.000 $381.4 20.52 2,535.00
on hand to educate and inform their peers and Sears Canada SCC TSX $23.520 $25.500 8.42% $26.280 $17.050 $1,309.0 13.56 2,744.00
the public about diamonds, the official gem of Signet Group SIG NYSE $26.690 $27.430 2.77% $29.070 $5.910 $613.7 N/A 2,677.00
Tiffany & Co. TIF NYSE $41.510 $41.770 0.63% $47.015 $16.700 $598.2 22.58 5,182.00
the NWT which accounts for more than 50% Wal-Mart WMT NYSE $52.240 $52.920 1.30% $55.200 $46.250 $99,411.0 15.03 204,103.00
of the territory’s GDP. The NWT is the third Zale Corp. ZLC NYSE $4.960 $2.510 -49.40% $8.510 $0.890 $329.2 N/A 80.00
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 29
Canadian Mining
at Bullard Pass
Canadian Mining Company Inc. has been
given the green light to move forward
with development at its Bullard Pass
Gold Project in Yavapai County, Arizona.
Following a detailed qualification process,
the exploration and development company
has received the necessary permits from the
Arizona State Land Department and the
United States Department of the Interior
Bureau of Land Management.
30 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Canadian Mines Make Top 100 List will give Vaaldiam’s existing shareholders authority. The entire process could take
A ranking of the world’s 100 largest mining approximately 30% of Tiomin’s stock. Tiomin between nine and 12 months. Greystar has
companies has been released and 16 Canadian Inc. is a Canada-based mining company also submitted an application for a work
companies made the list. The list was compiled with operating assets in Brazil, Kenya and and investment plan (PTO) based on the
by Miniweb, a web-based international mining Peru, with a focus on the exploration and Company’s prefeasibility study completed
publication. The rankings, which are based on development of base metals, precious metals, in March 2009. According to the study, the
market value, include: diamonds and titanium mineral sands. Angostura mine could produce an average of
Rank Company Name Value USD bn 511,000oz/y of gold and 2.3-millionoz/y of
6 Suncor 58.15 Stroud Announces Grant silver over 15 years.
8 Barrick Gold 40.98 of Stock Options
11 PotashCorp 36.31 Stroud Resources Ltd. has announced, subject Canadian Shield Appoints
12 Goldcorp 31.13 to acceptance by the TSX Venture Exchange, New Director; Expands Team
20 Teck Resources 23.68 that it has granted options to acquire an Canadian Shield Resources Inc. has announced
33 Kinross Gold 14.34 aggregate of 3,100,000 common shares to that Fernando Pickmann has been appointed
34 Canadian Oil Sands 14.19 directors and officers of the Company under to the Board of Directors. Further, the
40 Cameco 12.51 Stroud’s stock option plan. Each option is Company has also announced the expansion of
46 Agrium 10.90 exercisable to acquire one common share at a the exploration team in Lima, Peru. Pickmann
58 Yamana Gold 9.32 price of $0.10 per share for a three-year period. is a practicing lawyer based in Lima, and
59 Agnico-Eagle Mines 9.32 Stroud, a debt-free exploration company brings more than 15 years of commercial and
64 Eldorado Gold 8.08 focused on discovery and exploration of silver mining law experience to the Company, and a
68 Ivanhoe Mines 7.33 and gold deposits in Mexico and Ontario, combination of corporate experience in both
70 First Quantum 7.20 owns a 100% interest in the Santo Domingo the Peruvian and Canadian mining industries.
82 IamGold 6.29 epithermal silver-gold project in central Said Canadian Shield president Keith
86 Silver Wheaton 5.97 Mexico. Stroud’s assets also include 100% Laskowski, “We are very fortunate and excited
interests in the Hislop gold property, near to have Mr. Pickmann join our team, and I
Timmins, ON, and the Leckie gold property, look forward to his contributions as we take
Kodiak Exploration to Continue near North Bay, ON. our Peruvian program forward.” The Company
Mining at Milestone has also added two geologists to the Canadian
After a very fruitful first pass that identified a Vale’s Goro Nickel Shield local Peruvian team to work on the
large, potentially bulk-minable gold deposit, Operation Delayed Regional Andean Gold exploration program.
Kodiak Exploration Ltd. has announced plans According to a Vale company official, the
to begin drilling at its Milestone property processing plant at the Company’s Goro nickel Romios Closes Private Placement
in the Beardmore-Geraldton gold camp in operation in New Caledonia is undergoing tests Romios Gold Resources Inc. has announced
Western Ontario. The Vancouver-based and is not yet in production. The plant had been that the Company has closed the final piece
resource exploration company is expected to expected to start operating in January. The of the private placement of 250,000 working
commence its follow-up 4,000-metre diamond launch of Goro has been delayed several times capital units, further to the Company’s press
drilling program at the end of January and due to environmental opposition, operational release of December 31, 2009. The Company
continue on through March. Past results costs and a drop in nickel demand since 2008. currently has 101,717,479 common shares
and analysis of geophysical data indicate a Vale acquired the Goro project when it bought issued and outstanding.
significant gold system for the Milestone Canadian nickel miner Inco in 2006.
property. Construction at Mt. Milligan
Greystar Files Successful Gets Green Light
Tiomin Resources to Acquire EIA for Angostura Project The board of directors of Vancouver-
Vaaldiam Resources Vancouver’s Greystar Resources has based Canadian mineral development and
The wheels are in motion for Tiomin successfully filed an environmental impact exploration company Terrane Metals Corp.
Resources Inc. to acquire all outstanding assessment (EIA) with the Ministry of the have approved a decision to begin construction
shares of the Canadian-based diamond Environment, Housing and Territorial on the company’s Mt. Milligan copper-gold
mining and exploration company Vaaldiam Development in Columbia. The EIA was project. This move follows the expiration of
Resources Ltd. The two companies entered accepted for review in mid-January. This is Goldcorp Inc.’s one-time option to convert
into a definitive arrangement agreement that the first step in the environmental permitting equity interest in Terrane into a joint venture
will see Vaaldiam become a wholly-owned process for the development of Greystar’s between the two companies. Goldcorp Inc.
subsidiary of Tiomin Resources. Tiomin is Angostura gold/silver project. The Ministry has guaranteed Terrane Metals Corp. a
offering Vaaldiam 0.80 of a Tiomin common will then assemble a review team and request $40-million credit facility, which has been
share for each share of Vaaldiam, which input from the regional environmental extended to May 7, 2010. [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 31
This is a
True Story
B y Ron Hooper
After a recent JVC board meeting, a couple of JVC directors came up with the idea of bringing a JVC crime prevention seminar, similar to the two successful ones
in Toronto and Vancouver, to a smaller community. We would involve local police, and provide experts to speak on crime affecting jewellers, including credit
card fraud and robberies. This would be free to all industry members and staff. We would hold it on a Sunday if that would assist in getting staff to attend. A
well-known director in a smaller community volunteered to gauge the interest of a few jewellers. We were excited. At the next JVC directors meeting, however,
it was reported that the retailers we asked showed no interest whatsoever. They felt they knew how to handle their businesses and did not want to pay their staff
to attend a seminar. The level of apathy stunned us. Ron Hooper of Hooper’s Jewellers in Bowmanville, ON, (and a long-time JVC director), read the report in
the minutes of the meeting. The staff at Hooper’s Jewellers were victims of a traumatic violent crime in 2008. Here is their story. — Phyllis Richard
M
y company has been in business for 65 years, and has never point, I interrupted the attempt, and one of the individuals lunged at me
encountered anything so violent as what we experienced. with a knife. All three determined that things were going wrong and chased
I would like to say, however, that we very much value and me down the street. I was able to use a cell phone while running to phone
endorse the JVC and its Crime Prevention Program. There are things all the police, who were able to apprehend two out of the three, and, due to
jewellers should be updating their staff on from time to time, if even as their great detective work, subsequently apprehended the third. We later
a plain refresher session. Every employee should know what to do in a found out that all three involved in the attempted robbery were seasoned
breach of security incident (such as a robbery) so that the most effective criminals. The effects of their actions will last a lifetime; not only have they
method of apprehension by the proper authorities can be conducted. ruined one person’s life, but they have also changed the perspective of
three others, who question motives every time the front door opens.
In our case, an attempted armed robbery took place. Let me set the
scene: two staff were present on the sales floor, while a client was still To my fellow colleagues in the industry, here are some points to consider:
in the store. Three very nervous individuals we had never seen before
entered the store. One of the staff, being a bit apprehensive, alerted my • Make certain you have security cameras in all areas of the workplace
brother, who was in the workshop, advising him to come to the sales floor and, if possible, outside the premises.
immediately. He pretended to be adjusting a grandfather clock just to be • Have a store “safe code,” a word that everyone on staff is aware of
present. Three people were now on the floor, and the client left the store. and when to use it.
Two of the individuals (the suspects) asked to look at engagement rings. • If you have a back entrance, utilize a peephole or external security
screen before allowing anyone to enter.
One staff member, my daughter, proceeded to show the rings, and • Make certain your panic buttons are accessible, and not obvious
suddenly, one of the individuals leaped over the counter, pulling a large • Invest in personal alarm buttons – it can even be worn as a piece
bladed knife from under his belt, forcing my daughter to the ground of jewellery – and don’t be afraid to use it.
behind the counter. The other individual, also armed with a knife, chased • Most importantly do what robbers ask of you, and pay close attention
my other employee to the back room office area. Somewhere in that to any details of the situation: height, hair colour, clothing, vehicles, etc.
incident, one of my employees, an aspiring goldsmith, was slashed with
a knife, causing severe damage to her hand and impacting her ability to A robbery is the most traumatic thing that anyone can experience. This
return to work. She now suffers from posttraumatic stress disorder. business is our life. Every day I come to work and walk through the
front door, I still have flashbacks. The three criminals were eventually
The other individual confronted my brother, who feared for his life, and charged with six counts of robbery, one of them for another jewellery
the safety of the two girls. He struggled by throwing anything he could get store robbery. Some may say that we are one of the lucky ones, but it can
his hands on at the robber: display cases, a large grandfather clock. At that happen to anyone. [CJ]
32 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
O
f all the business models for running a retail jewellery operation, the
“second-floor” formula is among the hardest to implement, but carries
potential rewards that are the envy of the industry: no tire kicker walk-
ins, just appointment-only clients, 90% of which purchase something; less
likelihood of smash-and-grabs and break-ins, so fewer security requirements
and a better break on insurance rates and terms; flexible hours; more exclusive
clientele; fewer staffers and less administrative and POP costs. John de Jong, a
successful practitioner of this model who divides his time between Toronto and
Lausanne, Switzerland, agreed to give us a glimpse into the rarefied world of the
non-storefront retail enterprise, and the first thing you learn from him is that
networking is the key.
34 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 35
36 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
The mainstay of de Jong’s marketing efforts, aside from a spectacular designing jewellery, first sketching the designs of others that he admired,
annual calendar and a tantalizing web site, take the form of events. There and then, later, developing his own style. “When my family moved to
is an annual open house at the grand Palace Hotel & Spa in Lausanne, Switzerland in 1981, I was suddenly surrounded by the great jewellery
where de Jong presents his latest collection, and an event in the Toronto houses in Geneva and Gstaad, where we spent a lot of time – I could see
showroom every November. This year, de Jong is doing a show at a all their work walking through town. Switzerland is a jewellery centre,
private club in the Bahamas, hosted by a friend, and, in Toronto, he’ll and that really inspired me. I was an avid designer, and kept up on all the
host a spectactular party to celebrate his 15th anniversary. He’ll make news in the industry and went to all the exhibitions.”
15 one-of-a-kind pieces to celebrate each year in business; each will be
exhibited in its own showcase. For de Jong, it’s all about connections. His first step into the field on a practical level was when, at the age of
“Each event brings business, and we always find this is the best way to 21, he spent a summer in Florence, taking a jewellery-making course.
introduce my work to new clients. It can be intimidating to go to the “I already had a keen interest in design and had been designing for
fourth floor [at Bloor Street] and ring a bell to see jewels,” he says. “This some time, but this was the first hands-on experience. I loved the
way, a new visitor gets to meet me and my staff and see my work and the course and was really influenced by the architecture of the city – I still
space in a stress-free way. It’s an easy way to visit us for the first time.” am to some degree.”
Family has been an important influence on de Jong. His grandfather After graduating from Boston College in 1990 with a BA in Art History,
was an executive at Henry Birks & Sons for some 40 years, at one time de Jong started working on the sales floor for Tiffany and Co. in Toronto.
managing the flagship store in Montreal and also the store in Hamilton. He was one of the original staff that opened the store, alongside Andrea
“We [de Jong and his four sisters] visited the stores a lot,” he says. “There Hopson and Sharifa Chivers. “It was a great experience,” he says. [It
were a lot of Birks boxes in our house.” At the age of 13, he started was Hopson who recommended de Jong for this issue’s cover story].
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 37
De Jong left Tiffany to go back to Europe in 1992, where he interviewed and Country. “Once, a woman from Connecticut saw my ad in Town
with both Piaget and Christie’s. “It was a hard time for the industry, and Country and bought a pair of rose-cut diamond earrings for her
and I did not land the job I wanted, so I decided to study gemmology wedding, sight unseen”. He cites the Internet as another great tool that
in California at the Gemological Institute of America.” Earning his has transformed his business. “I have made sales to clients who, rather
Graduate Gemologist degree was “a terrific experience and I loved the than come in to the showroom, will see a pic online and buy the piece
course,” he says. “I even stayed on to do the jewellery design course too, on that basis.”
which was my main focus.”
Although JdJ serves an international clientele, the client list in Canada is
A few months later he took an Undertsanding Jewellery course with growing. Canadians, while they have high quality standards, have always
Amanda Triossi at Sotheby’s in London. “ She was great, and really gave been very conservative when it comes to design, but that, says de Jong, is
a hands-on and practical approach to looking at estate and modern changing. “Canadians’ taste in jewellery has changed dramatically over
jewellery. We had access to some of the most interesting workshops in the past 10 years, partly because of the Internet I think, and the growing
London and met with all the big names on Bond Street. We are still in number of jewellery web sites, such as firstwaternews.com, which have
touch after all this time, and chat about jewellery business quite often encouraged people to become more committed to trends.” This is good
when I see her. She is now the curator of the Bulgari collection in Rome.” for de Jong, whose design aesthetic is based on two pillars that make
his pieces anything but conservative: colour and scale. “I have always
Although word-of-mouth business is essential to de Jong’s business, done a lot of colour on colour, and people would say ‘where are the
he has also advertised, especially at the beginning, including to broad diamonds?’ Scale and colour are very acceptable in Europe, and now
markets in The Globe and Mail and to a more focused audience in Town that has come to Canada,” he says.
38 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Will he sell the business at some point? “I think the business will die with
me,” says de Jong. “I am not a global brand that is carried in retail stores.
It’s just me.” Not surprisingly, however, he thinks of it in terms of family
enterprise. Maybe I would sell it to my niece for a dollar,” he laughs. She
is 14 going on 35; she has a lot of style and she loves jewellery.” [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 39
Undimmed
Radiance
Pearl sources may change, but their allure is enduring.
by sarah b . hood
A
lone among precious gems, the lustrous pearl is a creation of a
living organism. Though renewable, it is also uniquely susceptible
to disease, pollution and weather. The notable example is, of
course, the Japanese akoya, foremost among cultured pearls until the
industry was reduced by blight. Now the akoya is returning, but with the
increase in Chinese freshwater pearl production and growing interest
in Tahitian and South Sea pearls, prices are in flux. In an atmosphere
further complicated by recession, will Canadian retailers be able to sell
pearls over the coming months, and if so, at what price point?
40 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“With all the difficulties we have heard about in the past, the Japanese in value. From the perspective of fashion or value, pearls are still the
are still the dominant player in akoya,” says Pierre Akkelian, President ultimate bang for the dollar.”
of Canadian Gem in Montreal. “Even though the production is much
reduced from the all-time high, there is still no significant quality “It’s a funny time in the market because the recession came on so fast
coming from China.” that you had pearl cultivators who were expecting happier times and who
had all this inventory, both freshwater and akoya. A lot of people had to
Akkelien cites reports that world pearl production has risen significantly sell off their inventory, so prices went down pretty steeply on Chinese
over the past 16 years, but prices have dropped. “Pearl farms in 1993 product,” says Robin Gambhir, President of Gambhir’s Imports. “People
produced about $800-million worth of raw material. In 1999, that value are sitting on goods that they can’t sell because the market price is below
had dropped to $500-million, and in 2009 it was down to $370-million,” cost. I’ve told retailers to buy now; it’s not going to get any cheaper than this.
he says. Nonetheless, “In 1996, Tahiti produced five tonnes of pearls; in I see prices going back up to where they were before the recession maybe
2009, they produced 12.5 tonnes. For South Sea pearls, production in in 18 months, but I think everybody in the supply chain has readjusted to
1996 was 2.4 tonnes, and in 2009 it was 12.5 tonnes.” lower retail sales.”
Production in Japanese pearl farms has dropped by about 50% by “I’ve discounted some strands I’ve had for a long time just to get them
quantity and 90% by value over the same period. “For the Japanese out of the shop,” says Strelau. “You can replace them for less than you
akoya specifically, in 1999, $600-million worth of pearls was produced, paid for them. But I have a couple of strands that I’ll never discount
but 2009 figures are about $60-million.” because they’re just too good, and they’ll eventually find a buyer.”
But Japanese akoya production is improving. “You can finally buy decent For consumers, who may not be very knowledgeable
quality akoya pearls again,” says Llyn Strelau, owner and designer for about recent price changes, pearls are very
Jewels by Design in Calgary. “And the latest I’ve seen are coming from fashionable right now, whether it’s the classic
Vietnam; only a couple of dealers deal with them: they are pink and Audrey Hepburn necklace or an art piece
creamy and grey-blue in mixed strands.” with coloured pearls. “Fashion-wise, we’ve
been very lucky; everywhere I look in
Meanwhile, Chinese freshwater pearls continue to improve, to the advertising or film, I see pearls. Michelle
extent that Joel Goldberg of Lou Goldberg Jewellers in Montreal warns Obama is always wearing pearls now; in
colleagues to be on guard because, he says, “I’ve been hearing of cases Sex and the City, star Sarah Jessica Parker
where some of the better quality freshwaters were mixed amongst is wearing pearls throughout the film,”
the akoyas.” Akkelien says.
“For the Canadian jeweller, prices dropped last year on the lower value
goods; like diamonds, the price took a dip because of the demand. Some
people were selling for perhaps 40% less, but the more expensive goods 19k white gold, ring with South Sea
didn’t take as much of a hit,” Akkelien says. “Now, in almost every button pearl, 28 channel-set princess
category, they’re almost approaching the prices of three years ago. We cut sapphires and round brilliant cut
have an advantage as Canadians because our dollar has appreciated diamonds. Llyn Strelau, Jewels by Design
42 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
For Cecile Quirron of Melissa Pearl in Montreal, the selling points of the
moment are value and variety. “Gold is so expensive that I think pearls
and coloured stones are the thing to offer to the customer because they White South Sea cultured Pearl
have something to offer for the same price. It’s bad for jewellers that gold Baroque strand and white South Sea
is so expensive; you have to find something else to put in the display case. Keshi Pearl earrings with diamonds.
It’s an advantage for pearls,” she says. “You have so many choices in pearls: Canadian Gem.
multicoloured, golden, black, grey, white, pink – you can have 10 different
stores on the street and no one will have the same pearls.”
“The fashion industry has toned down; in bad economic times, it’s
considered in bad taste to flaunt wealth,” comments Gambhir. “After a
recession people go overboard in the other direction, but this recession
has been so deep and so long and has affected so many people that it may
take a couple of years before we see a real recovery.”
“I haven’t sold a strand of basic white pearls for a long time, but I have
sold freshwater or Tahitian pearls that are either black or multicoloured,”
says Strelau, who adds value by creating necklaces with a German
“InterCHANGE” clasp that can link to different pendant pieces. “If you
sell a $10,000 or $30,000 pearl strand that you can only wear one way,
it’s hard to justify the price, but if you have something that you can wear
in several different ways, people are excited by it because they can keep
adding to it.”
Pearl Advertisers in this issue
Strelau also spends time matching the right pearls to a customer’s
complexion. “Every woman looks better in different colours of pearl, Jomark
and that’s why you have to have a variety,” he says. “When I have a pearl t: 905.264.0400
supplier in town, I often invite a small group to a little party.” Also, “a lot
Mirage
of wedding dresses aren’t white any more, so Chinese freshwater pearls
t: 877.BY.MIRAGE
are useful in finding wedding jewellery that complements the gown,” w: www.miragecreations.com
he adds, “but don’t buy promotional quality freshwater pearls, because
you’re going to live and die with them unless they sell quickly.” MCD Pearls
t: 416.368.2690
w: www.mcdpearls.com
Other retailers are using a variety of selling strategies to interest their
clients in pearls, including prime placement in the shop. “If you walk Pandora Jewellery
through our door, the fi rst thing you would see in our front counter t: 410.309.0200
is about a dozen different sizes and shapes of South Sea pearls,” says w: www.pandora-jewelry.com
Goldberg. “A strand of pearls is the most basic thing that a woman can
Siffari
have in her jewellery wardrobe. If she wants to dress up or dress down, t: 416.441.1010
she is never inappropriately accoutred wearing a strand of pearls.” w: www.siffari.com
“Jewellers are missing an opportunity if they don’t look at the pearl Stuller
t: 337.262.7700
category,” says Akkelien. “I’m very confident for the future of the
w: www.stuller.com
pearl industry, because every fashionable woman is wearing pearls
right now.” [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 43
Canadian Jeweller (CJ): The Diamond Bourse of Canada (DBC) has open a bourse in Toronto, as it’s the hub of the industry. To move this
been a long time coming. Tell us about the process and how/why you further we need funding from the industry that would be matched
became involved. by the Ontario government. We got some industry leaders and other
interested individuals to sign up and become the first founding
Bhushan Vora (BV): The process started about three years ago. I am members [there are 14] of the bourse. We divided the work and got
the president of the Diamond Manufacturers Association of Canada. underway to find a location and put all the necessary elements in
Under the umbrella of the DMAC, I did a couple of presentations to place. The key reason for my involvement in this project was to give
the Ontario government bringing awareness of mining and other something back to an industry which has given me so much. Our
elements of the diamond and jewellery industry. This got the ball products turn into cherished mementos in every family’s heritage. I
rolling and one day I heard back from the Ontario government would like to see the same happen with this bourse.
showing keen interest in our sector. The lead person at the time was
Robert Merwin with whom I shared a lot of information. We traveled CJ: What will the organization bring to the Canadian jewellery
to Israel together to see the bourses there. After seeing how they work industry?
around the world, we felt that it was time for Canada. The key to this
was all the countries that had mines, manufacturing and trade had BV: The DBC will bring the industry together to have a voice in the
bourses except Canada. This was the key segment missing in the chain Canadian market. DBC will make sure that the jewellery industry
from mining to the consumers. With the help of the CJA and the use of benefits from the information it can provide to the industry. Apart from
their offices, we began to move the process forward; our first meeting the services provided by our organization, we will also bring more trade
was held in their boardroom with about 30 people. In conjunction within our vast country. The DBC will bring all the participants from
with the Ontario government we started doing a feasibility study and governments and international trade together to bring more vibrancy to
town hall meetings to see how interested the industry was in getting the jewellery industry. The DBC under one roof will have more elements
a bourse. The response was overwhelming and the consensus was to than any other association in Canada.
44 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
CJ: What impact will this have on an international level? For our products related to the diamond trade. I think some of the services are
industry’s international profile? ready to go as soon as we open, and I would say within a period of a few
months we will be providing all these services. We will also add more
BV: The DBC has already been associating with the World Federation services as the need arises.
of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) and taken their guidance in forming
the bourse here in Canada. The international markets all are aware of CJ: What are the membership requirements/parameters? What is the
the value of the bourse and will bring more credibility to the industry fee schedule like or is it assessed individually?
in the international market. We will be looking to get more defined
statistics on our industry which will help in forecasting trends and BV: The membership requirements are pretty straightforward. Once
help international trade. a person applies we do a thorough check on their background. We
review that they are a Canadian corporation and have been operating
CJ: Is the Bourse only going to sell/offer exclusively Canadian product? for a minimum of three years in Canada. These are the two most
Why is buying Canadian so important in today’s economic climate? important elements. The fee schedule for the first year is $1,500 for a
member. There are other levels of memberships in case a person does
BV: The bourse is going sell and offer all kinds of products that the not want to be a full member.
Canadian market will bear and the international market will love. Our
members have some of the best Canadian and non-Canadian products CJ: Are you able to share membership enrolment numbers thus far?
to sell. The Canadian market is just as vibrant as the Asian market. We How has the response been from the industry?
manufacture some of the best products in the world and have the best
artisans working here. We need to create a mind set in all our consumers BV: At this time, it’s a work in progress. There is a lot of interest for
to buy Canadian. One way of getting the consumers’ confidence up in the opening and to see the actual location and how our process works.
our products is the support by the Northwest Territories and Ontario Once this happens, I anticipate the response booming and membership
governments by creating certificate of origin of the diamonds that taking off.
comes out of our mines. This will entail better business within Canada
and attract more overseas buyers as the word gets out of the quality of CJ: What is the government’s involvement with the bourse?
work we produce.
BV: The government’s interest in the bourse is only to see it succeed as
CJ: How does our Bourse compare to similar organizations throughout we have more mines coming on board. We are a completely independent
the world? What do you plan on doing to propagate the Bourse’s body to operate as we like. We feel the government plays a vital role in
reputation and is it your goal to be affiliated with the other bourses? our success, and the input we get from their experience is very crucial
to our operation.
BV: This bourse is very comparable to the other bourses around the
world but with a “Canadian twist.” Once we are operational and we CJ: What is your view of the future of our industry? What should
start providing the services and attract international buyers, it will retailers be aware of now more than ever?
automatically build our reputation. I have yet to find someone who visits
Canada and isn’t totally impressed by its people and the infrastructure BV: The future of the industry is very bright as long as we stay on top of the
we have here. Our multicultural and mosaic society is unique. We plan to changes taking place around the world. Retailers should be aware of the
show how well the industry in Canada works together in competing with fact that mining, diamonds cutting methods, manufacturing processes
the world markets, and we definitely would like to be associated with the and the consumers themselves are all evolving very fast. The credit is tight.
other bourses around the world so that we may have more opportunities The banks are viewing our borrowing and business practices closely. The
with other countries. retailer really needs to come in conjunction with the bigger picture and go
after the marketing of jewellery in a way that the consumer starts to think
CJ: What services will the Bourse offer and how long will it take to of jewellery as an asset that can be enjoyed. The retailer needs to push the
phase them in? supply chain for more marketing of its jewellery so they don’t lose out to
other luxury goods or electronic items. [CJ]
BV: The Bourse will offer many services, like a bonded warehouse,
technology center, shipping services, pick-up windows for GIA, safety The Diamond Bourse of Canada is located at 20 Richmond St. East,
deposit lockers, forex services, tenders in polish and rough diamonds Suite 302, in Toronto. Contact the Bourse at 416-663-3262, or toll free
and seminars and guidance on industry-related topics. We will also sell at 1-888-963-3262.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 45
46 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
T
he introduction of exceptional models in iconic collections
prevailed at the twentieth anniversary edition of the Salon
International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva this year.
Following a year of heavy losses for the watch industry, the Richemont
brands and other high-end exhibitors at the SIHH responded to current
market conditions by emphasizing their expertise as manufacture
watchmakers, producing in-house calibres for bread-and-butter lines,
as well as a few exceptional pieces in limited editions.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master
Compressor Extreme Lab2,
with world’s most complex
chronograph movement.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 47
Lange and Söhne made a statement in its iconic Lange One line by
introducing the Lange One Daymatic with a new automatic in-house
calibre. This is the first automatic movement for the Lange One, which
was introduced in 1994, and is sure to become a collector’s item.
Sakura, with a Japanese lacquer dial Thin is in this year, when it comes to movements. Piaget introduced an
from the Extraordinary Lacquer
collection by Van Cleef & Arpels.
automatic calibre version of its famously slim (2.30mm) 12P hand wound
movement. The automatic 1200P is 2.35mm thick, making it the world’s
thinnest automatic movement. It is cased in the Altiplano collection.
48 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Metiers D’Art, the traditional artisanal crafts that go into the finishing
of a high end watch, such as marquetry, enamelling, engraving and gem
setting, were also on full display at SIHH. Both Van Cleef and Arpels and
Vacheron Constantin introduced collections with Japanese lacquered
dials. Each brand, in fact, hosted craftsmen who travelled from Tokyo
to the fair to demonstrate the ancient techniques of Japanese lacquering.
Van Cleef introduced three boxed sets of enamel-dial watches: California
Dreaming celebrates the brand’s 70th anniversary in the United States
with scenes of California rendered in marquetry, enamel, engraving and
gem setting; a set of five watches with dials depicting different varieties of
hummingbirds; and another depicting varieties of butterflies, rendered
in stained-glass enamel.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 49
How to
Raise Prices,
Even in a
Recession
Discussing money with clients can be one
of the most awkward parts of being a small
business owner, so how do you raise prices
with as little disruption as possible?
BY HOWARD GROSFIELD
W
hen was the last time you raised your prices? Chances are it’s been a while. Many small
business owners avoid raising their price points, particularly during a recession, out
of fear of having difficult conversations and of losing clients. Many small business
owners are considering raising their prices – some because their costs are rising, some because
they feel their rising level of expertise justifies it. For those that may be considering raising their
prices, here are some factors to consider.
50 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
“Clients of manufactures and suppliers are most likely to accept a price increase when they
get the information clearly and in advance. Businesses that simply start using new prices for
routinely ordered product on the next invoice with no warning may be met with hostility.”
52 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
cjFeb10_ReadyMounts_Ad.indd 1
Got it Covered
How Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company is making things
easier for retailers everywhere.
BY CLARE TATTERSALL
T
he story of Jewelers Mutual began in 1913, when members of
the Wisconsin Retail Jewelers Association banded together
to find affordable fire insurance for jewellers. Led by Andrew
Anderson, a Neenah, WI, jeweller, they formed the Jewelers Mutual
Limited Fire Insurance Company of Wisconsin in the back office of
a downtown Neenah jewellery store. From here, the company issued
its first policies, averaging US$700 in fire insurance coverage for a
premium of US$9.15.
54 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Since then, Jewelers Mutual has experienced its greatest growth, jewellery industry. Interactive online training courses include Danger
becoming licensed in all 50 states in 1976 and Canada in 2005, and on the Road and Selling with Security. Providing important tips to
broadening its range of insurance coverage to jewellery businesses. New significantly reduce travel risk, Danger on the Road was the first online
coverage includes the Businessowners policy, providing property and course of its kind related to jewellery security. Selling with Security
liability coverage to manufacturers, retailers, wholesalers and specialty is the newest online course, which teaches jewellers how to protect
jewellery businesses; the Jewelers Standard Policy, a less expensive merchandise, staff and themselves from thieves, using three important
alternative to Jewelers Block for smaller jewellery operations; and the security habits: meet-and-greet, one-on-one and turn the key. In meet-
Jewelers Pak policy, which combines the Businessowners policy with and-greet, for instance, jewellers learn how to make customers feel
the Jewelers Block policy. All policies can be customized to meet the welcome and thieves uncomfortable in their store. Emphasis is placed
policyholder’s specific coverage requirements. on greeting each customer, making eye contact and keeping watch, as
well as continuously checking jewellery sales tags to prevent a switch of
“Every ounce of our energy, capital and human resources is focused on real for fake jewellery.
the desire to have the very best product and service and making sure
that’s available to our customers,” says president and CEO Darwin “First and foremost, our role in the industry is to keep jewellers from
Copeman, adding “coverage you can count on” is an integral part of the having losses, so we work diligently to get information out about loss
company’s success. prevention,” says Copeman about the niche company, which is the only
insurer dedicated to protecting the jewellery industry and individuals
Currently, more than 10,000 policyholders trust Jewelers Mutual to who own jewellery.
insure their jewellery businesses and more than 200,000 individuals
carry upwards of US$3-billion in personal insurance coverage. The To facilitate the dissemination of information, Jewelers Mutual has
ability to pay its claims is one of the reasons Jewelers Mutual has received produced a series of security and loss prevention films. Further
an A+ Superior rating from A.M. Best for 23 consecutive years. emphasizing its commitment to education, it has also partnered
with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance to develop a comprehensive alert
“We have a stellar reputation for covering our customers’ exposures, network to combat crime. These efforts are especially noteworthy given
which keeps us first and foremost in the minds of our commercial today’s rising crime rates. According to Jewellers Vigilance Canada, the
insurers,” he notes. Also top of mind for policyholders and Jewelers number of reported break and enter, theft and robbery crimes involving
Mutual its people. Last year the company completed an 18,900-sq.- jewellery increased in 2009, with robberies almost doubling to 44 from
ft. addition to its Neenah headquarters, located, fittingly, on Jewelers 28, accounting for $3.8-million in losses.
Park Drive, which was undertaken to accommodate Jewelers Mutual’s
growing and number-one asset – its employees. “Most of the crime that impacts jewellers today is a product of
professional thieves that do a very good job at identifying security leaks
“We have one of the most highly reputed individuals in loss prevention or potential weaknesses in a store,” he notes. “They’re studying the safe
in (North America),” says Copeman of David Sexton, vice-president mechanisms, security devices and alarm companies that are intended to
of loss prevention, who is one of 191 staff members. “He works with protect stores, trying to find a way around them so they might be able to
all security companies, is constantly asked to consult with individual get away with stealing a large sum of gems or watches.” Copeman adds
commercial store owners that are looking to develop new security that he has also seen an increase in the number of reported off-premise
systems, and was recently inducted to the board of the Jewelers’ Security travel losses involving jewellery. To reduce the risk of becoming a victim,
Alliance.” Copeman, who joined Jewelers Mutual in 2009, has more he stresses the importance of straying from habitual behaviour.
than 30 years of experience in the insurance industry, most recently as
the president and CEO of Cameron Insurance Companies. He has also “It’s about not exposing yourself to watching thieves,” he explains. “When
served in executive positions at Great American Insurance Company travelling from town to town, don’t take the same route, don’t stay at the
and in various executive and management roles at Grinnell Mutual same hotel and don’t make the same rounds in the community.”
Reinsurance Company. Since joining Jewelers Mutual, the company
has forged two historic partnerships – one with Jewelers of America While providing this type of value-added information is a hallmark
and the other with the Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA). There was of Jewelers Mutual, the company also takes time to listen to the
also a partnership forged with the American Gem Society in February jewellery industry through its Jewelers Advisory Council. Comprised
2009. Through relationships such as these, Jewelers Mutual has forged of eight Jewelers Mutual-insured jewellers that represent the variety of
a symbiotic relationship with the jewellery industry. These strategic businesses the company insures, the Council meets with Jewelers Mutual
partnerships have also served to enhance the services and products representatives at least once a year to discuss insurance and security
Jewelers Mutual and the respective organizations provide to the retail issues for the industry and provide insight into how the company can
jewellery industry, ensuring its health and vitality. For example, through most effectively meet the needs of its commercial customers.
Jewelers Mutual’s partnership with the CJA, members of the association
receive free access to JM University, a virtual classroom established by “By helping each other, we can better serve our clients,” says Copeman.
the company to provide safety, security and insurance education to the “It’s a win-win-win all-around.” [CJ]
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 55
56 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
S
ettling into the idyllic Katmandu, Nepal, in the mid-'90s, Ian Saude
searched the region for new ideas and inspiration for his jewellery
collection. At the same time, while living in the Himalayas,
studying Buddhism philosophy, Saude sought out the ancient ways of
jewellery making so that each piece he created would enhance the natural
qualities of his surroundings. In 2006, Saude returned to California to
live and begin work on a new brand, Ian Saude: IS, launched in May
2008. Mixing colours and exotic gemstones, Saude’s style of working Acqua I + Kaba dangles, with
with nature instead of against it, has brought about a strong Hollywood baroque-briolette oro verde
citrines in 18k yellow gold.
following enjoys his contemporary and interchangeable pieces, which
bring out their own creativity and daily attitudes.
Ian Saude (IS): Just the fact that they could fashion such amazing
looking pieces of jewellery using, in some cases, tools that had not
substantially changed since the Middle Ages. They used old-fashioned
hand tools, kerosene torches and blow pipes. I thought it was amazing
to see where jewellery-making started and then compare it to all of
the different techniques and tools we have today. That was when I first
started, in 1995.
CJ: How has your jewellery – and you personally – been influenced by
the exotic and spiritualism of Nepal and this region?
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 57
It’s very much a Buddhist concept. It’s really the subject that defines
the experience, not the object itself. The object is there as a mirror as
it were. As I’ve evolved, the symbolic imagery is less literal and more
experiential.
IS: I don’t really work much with silver now. It’s 18k gold and gemstones.
IS: I’m doing a lot of micro-pavé work with chocolate diamonds, in the
cognac tones. We’re doing a lot of shading, and I’m using pavé techniques, not
just for normal flat, round surfaces but on curvilinear surfaces, using
diamonds to uncover unusual shapes that you would not normally be able
to use gemstones for until recently. That, in combination with beautiful
subdued colour is what I prefer. I like tourmaline a lot, different colours
of citrine – things that go well with a cognac colour. And all these go so
well with white, yellow and rose gold, which I like to work in, so it goes Acqua I + Lea dangles, in 18k
well with everything, actually. Because it’s a little softer, the colour of the yellow gold with baroque-cut
African amethyst navettes
diamonds is not quite so blatant and women feel comfortable wearing
surrounded by diamonds.
them during the daytime and really get noticed. They’re obviously fine
jewellery, but they’re not necessarily just red carpet accessories.
IS: A big concept in the 2009 collection was and is versatility. For example,
I took an earring called Acqua Huggies, which is a small sculptural
piece – Demi Moore and Christina Ricci wore those. The Huggies have a
whole selection of different interchangeable dangles that fit on to them.
And the dangles come in all different colours so the idea is women can
mix and match, and if they’re travelling, you don’t want something
too opulent for the office, but when you’re going out for drinks later, you
can take these earrings and transform them to make them look like
something new. It increases the value of the piece, because you don’t
have to invest in earrings every time. You can customize it to wardrobe, Acqua I + Alais dangles, in
seasonal changes, moods, so it can be a creative thing, too. 18k rose gold with rose colored
Malaya zircons framed with
mocca diamonds.
CJ: Teri Hatcher was seen with a pair of your Piave I earrings.
IS: Yes, she owns a pair of those. She bought them for herself. She also
has wore our 12 stacking rings on the red carpet.
IS: Faith Hill wore the big Piave III hoops at the CMA Awards last
year when she presented the Entertainer of the Year award to Taylor
Swift. Jessica Biel wore the Piave II hoops at the Rome Film Festival
last year and on a few other recent occasions. Kate Beckinsale just
bought one of our capsule rings for herself, similar to our Piave
earrings but as a ring.
58 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
IS: The Scultura and the Acqua I and Acqua II earrings with their various
dangle combinations are of particular interest for this season, I think.
The versatility and the “fun” aspect of being able to change them around "I want to create designs that are contemporary,
is a key reason for their appeal, I’ve heard. Expressing one’s creativity, but not trendy in the sense that they are
your look evolves as you evolve, and I think that’s what is appealing.
disposable and cater to some cultural whim.
CJ: Your pieces represent a look that is chic, yet trendy. What do you think I want women to develop a jewellery wardrobe."
your collection says about the women who wear some of your pieces?
IS: That’s a very good question. We have a broad cross section of women
who enjoy the pieces, and I don’t design for any one kind of customer,
specifically. But in general, I try to design for a woman who is confident
in her take, who is looking at jewellery, clothing choices and lifestyle
choices as an outlet for her own creativity as an expression of her taste.
And as someone who is confident in making those purchases for herself.
Although I have a lot of men buying these pieces for women, I’m not
really designing a collection of traditional diamond jewellery that’s Treasure cage ring. Cocktail ring in 18k yellow
going to be marriage-related. Basically, people have different lifestyles gold, entwines a cache of loose baroque South
and relationships now and I’m trying to create jewellery for a woman Sea pearls. The surface is a mixture of brushed
and polished finishes, delicately strewn with
in her own unique point of view, not via the relationship in her life.
tiny green sapphires in bezel settings.
It’s really something that’s going to be fun, that fits into her lifestyle,
something she can use in lots of different ways. Women respond to those
changes. We all evolve over the course of our lifetimes and women (more
than men), are often called upon to fulfill a lot of different roles in their
lives. So I’m trying to create jewellery that’s sexy and fun, but at the same
time, is dignified and apparently valuable. It’s nice to create things that
are fashion forward but still have the ability to become a future classic so
that a woman can wear it, enjoy it now, put it back in her jewellery box
for a few years and then take it out only to love it all over again. I want
to create designs that are contemporary, but not trendy in the sense that
they are disposable and cater to some cultural whim. I want women to
develop a jewellery wardrobe. [CJ]
60 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
T
he best way to prevent robbery on the road is by preplanning. By in residential neighbourhoods.” If the suspicious car is still following,
the time a thief strikes, he has probably been planning the crime “get to a place of safety: pull into a police or fire station or a bank.
for weeks; a jeweller needs to think ahead to outwit him. Dial 911, and do not say ‘I think I am being followed.’ Say ‘I am about to
be the victim of an armed robbery.’”
“One of our challenges is educating jewellers about how to protect
themselves,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice-President, Loss Prevention, “Try not to stop the car,” advises Normand Federico, Director of Loss
for Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company. “The JVC (Jewellers Vigilance Prevention for Birks and Mayors. “Have a full tank of gas and a fully-
Canada) manual for loss prevention provides the most comprehensive charged cell phone. Make sure to go to the bathroom before you start.”
guide to procedures that can be used to prevent crime in Canada.” The Do not respond to any distraction, from someone asking for directions
Jewelers Mutual website offers a free video, “Danger on the Road.” to an argument in a restaurant. If you see a roadside accident, call 911 to
report it, but do not stop.
“In loss prevention, there’s nothing more powerful than knowledge,”
says Sexton. “The information one jeweller gets from another is more Lamont notes that some thieves will puncture a tire so the driver will be
valuable than anything they would read in a brochure.” forced to pull over later. “If your tire is going flat, go to a gas station or
pull into a public place.” Run-flat tires, which stretch driving time on a
Vigilance is key, and starts long ahead, because thieves sometimes watch puncture, can be a good investment.
a target for weeks before striking. JVC Director of Crime Prevention
John Lamont suggests, “preplanning your route and maybe not using Merchandise should always be locked in the trunk of the car. “There is
the same route all the time.” greater risk to yourself when the merchandise is inside the car. There are lock
systems that can provide greater security to your trunk,” Kennedy notes;
If a car is followed, “salesmen on the road have to engage in evasive Babaco is one trusted brand. When unloading, “if everything is in your
driving techniques,” says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers Security trunk, you have time to look around,” says Federico. “If you have any doubt,
Alliance. “Drive very slowly, making U-turns or driving around the block leave everything in your trunk and go inside to security and call 911.”
62 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Luggage can be fitted with a GPS device that can be tracked via computer. When flying, ideally, jewellery should never be checked, but most tools
Some systems set off an alarm if the briefcase is moved more than ten feet and jewellery with pin-like fasteners will not be allowed in carry-
away from its owner. However, Kennedy cautions, “often, thieves discard on. It is advisable to request a private security screening. Otherwise,
the item. There is also the issue of the recovery of the goods; it’s not simple. it is best to wait until the regular check-in line is not busy. Packing
Before and after every sales call, eyeball the area, and don’t sit in your merchandise in transparent wrapping or cases will speed up a luggage
car for any length of time,” he says. “Park very near to your destination. search. An aisle seat is safest, and the best place to keep the line is
Ideally, the store owner will make sure you get back to your car.” under the seat.
“Some people hire a security guard,” says Lamont. “When they go into When travelling to a trade show, the most secure option is to hire an
a mall, the guard should keep a little distance between himself and the armoured car company to transport the line into the secure show area.
jeweller so they can’t both be distracted at the same time.” Federico Smoke and Screen Security Systems, based in Barrie, ON, handles
notes that security personnel should be in plainclothes, “and the guard Smokecloak, an in-store security system that deters thieves by filling
carries the merchandise.” the shop with a non-toxic fog that makes it impossible to see anything.
The same product has been modified for use with armoured cars. “It
Overnight trips require further planning. “You have to follow your is actively being used in Europe for that application,” says company
insurance company, but in our experience, it’s much safer to put the president Kevin Paul. “It has been used since 2003.”
merchandise in your hotel room than the hotel safe or vault,” says
Kennedy. However, thieves will break in if the room is unoccupied. These points may seem basic, but, says Federico, if every jeweller followed
such simple rules as keeping the line locked securely in the car trunk and
“If you’re going from store to store, at the end of the day, leave the line at the never stopping en route, “he could prevent 90% to 95% of robberies.”
last store, where it’s properly alarmed,” Lamont suggests. “Many travelling
salespeople will obtain a waiver form from their insurance company that “You have a bad feeling,” says Sexton, “when people have a loss that
says they won’t hold the merchant responsible if they keep it in their store.” could have been prevented.” [CJ]
canadian jeweller ad.qxd:canadian jeweller ad.qxd 2/9/10 5:37 PM Page 1
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B
arbed wire compounds, steel trap doors, metal detectors, Businesses need to create security networks combining technology,
video surveillance cameras, rows of shielded militia perched resources, measures and procedures that are interconnected in the fight
motionlessly awaiting conflict; metaphors of protection, security against unlawful interference. Such networks do not come without a
and defense. Images that conjure up trepidation and safety. The point cost. The upside to this is that the amount of theft and damage created
is that threats or anticipated threats from vandals to terrorists force by the lack of a security network is typically far greater than the costs to
us to take measures to secure our lives, fortunes, liberties, autonomies put one in place. It is estimated that on average, businesses loose up to
and rights. 10% of their revenues per year as a result of poor or non-existent security
practices.
Attackers are constantly scheming of ingenious ways to penetrate
tightly controlled security systems, stripping us of our prosperity. When businesses and merchants practice correct security management,
When it comes to security, more often than not, assailants have the the likelihood of an incident is significantly reduced. Preparedness
upper hand. Property owners, merchants and institutions are forced becomes one of the best forms of defense and the better businesses are
to put in place security measures and protocols that cover all points of at assessing risk and preparing for it the more successful they become at
attack, while assailants only need to identify and focus on the weakest avoiding a breach.
point. Commitment to such protocols must be dynamic and ongoing. If
vulnerability is the weakness that potentially can be exploited, then the Security networks need to be entrenched in the fabric of any business
larger the organization, the greater its vulnerability. As threats become operation. Whether you are a jewellery store merchant or football
more sophisticated and companies more susceptible, security has moved stadium owner, specific security protocols need to be put in place to
from “maybe” to “mandatory” on the corporate “To Do” list. protect assets, systems, property and human resources. Threats and
64 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
potential threats must be identified immediately and effectively dealt comes to security, INKAS® are prevention specialists. The Company’s
with. Threats, like any disease, virus or parasite, if left unchecked executives and engineers are risk management strategists, constantly
will continue to thrive, become more sophisticated in nature, develop analyzing situations, probing weaknesses and vulnerabilities and
resistance and evolve. developing tactical and affordable solutions.
INKAS® Security Services Ltd., a company whose mere existence is In spite of the security industry becoming very competitive, few
postured on the premise that threats subsist, continues to do combat companies offer multiple products and services in the same light
in the war against unlawful interference. Through its armed guard, as INKAS®. From its armed guard services to its storage facilities for
close protection, security officer, armed courier, armoured vehicle and bullion, precious metals and cash, INKAS® supplements the fibers to
safe manufacturing divisions, INKAS® offers multi layered protocols which security networks are woven.
of defense.
In order to thwart off perpetrators, companies need to display their
Where an alarm system may ward off an intruder, a strategically security networks as a fortress. The presence of an armed guard sends
placed sign promoting the alarm system may prevent the window a very strong message to both customers and criminals. And although
from actually getting broken – an effective measure of prevention and it is not possible to guarantee that all threats can be totally eliminated,
deterrence. Whether you are a merchant, jeweller, trade show operator businesses that engage in the services provided by INKAS® can take
or institution, preventative measures are vital for protection. When it pride in knowing that they are gaining the upper hand. [CJ]
For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 81
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 65
W
hile at first glance it may seem counterintuitive to look to the With any type of loss comes the need for disaster recovery. Few retailers
Internet for security, web applications can provide essential have disaster-recovery policies and procedures in place; and the lack of
protection and insurance for the jewellery retailer – protecting a plan for data loss or server crashes can be devastating to a business,
valuable data against loss, fire, theft and/or virus. costing time and money to get back up and running. The advantage of
web applications is that it only takes plugging in a new computer and
The protection lies in secure, off-site (online) storage of the business’ getting online to be back in business. Of course the important part of
records through a web-based service. choosing the right web application is to do the due diligence on the
security of the system.
Loss protection: web-based data management means the retailer no
longer needs to back up data. One of the most important management As with any insurance policy, it is important to examine the fine detail
tasks is ensuring that software and business information is backed up – the difference an ‘s’ makes for example. The standard Internet address
to an external device to protect against system failures. And yet, most bar typically starts with http:// and follows with the web address. ‘Http’
retailers do not back up their data on a regular basis. They often forget is insecure and subject to man-in-the-middle and eavesdropping attacks
to check and monitor that the backups are performing correctly. One of which make it easy for hackers to gain access to website accounts and
the biggest stumbling blocks is time: data back up can take up to several sensitive information.
hours per day, depending on the software. With a web-based application,
data is saved and secured automatically. An ‘s’ added onto ‘http’, thus https:// signals a secure connection with
an extra layer of encrypted data that is used for authentication. ‘Https’
Fire or theft protection: the web advantage is that data is stored off-site. connections are often used for payment transactions over the Internet
and for sensitive transactions in corporate information systems. ‘Https’
Virus protection: a virus can spread to other computers on an internal is secure, and is designed to withstand eavesdroppers and hackers.
network and cause data loss if the server becomes infected. The superior
security of a web-application means data is unaffected by local viruses A secure web service company is one that has successfully completed a
and hardware issues. statement on auditing standards No 70 (SAS70) Type II Audit and has
66 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Tips
Email Best Practice
Modify your main email address for specific applications
such as signing up for e-bulletins or newsletters. For
example, your address is aname@mymail.com. If I were to
sign up for a newsletter or email alert, I would add ‘-cj’ to
the base: aname-cj@mymail.com. This provides a couple
of benefits: if you receive unsolicited email at the modified
address, then you know that your email address was sold
and distributed by the company signed up with; if that’s the
case, you can easily add the modified email address to a
obtained a favourable, unbiased opinion from its independent auditors.
junk filter without disrupting main email address.
SAS70 certifies that a service organization has had an in-depth audit of
the controls it has in place for operational performance and security to
Protect your email addresses by never posting them on
safeguard customer data.
your website. Email harvesters (spambots) crawl the web
to find and extract addresses from web pages. They add
Amazon Web Services for example, with the world’s largest computing
these to their database for junk mail. Rather than posting
infrastructure, Amazon’s EC2, has undergone such an audit and
your email address as a means for people to contact you,
provides the latest in data security, privacy and protection.
make your contact mechanism a contact form.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 CJ 67
68 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
Maggie Grace
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 CJ 69
70 CJ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
T
he Canadian jewellery industry has been facing a serious analysts believe that there has literally been a movement of criminal
increase in crime over the past year. Although numerous factors activity from the U.S. to Canada.
are at play, including new money-laundering legislation, experts
believe that organized gangs of criminals have recently moved from the Looking closer at the Canadian figures provided by JVC, one sees that of the
U.S. into Canada, and that they are targeting sales people travelling 44 robberies reported in 2009, six of these involved travelling salespersons,
with jewellery merchandise. Sharing information across various accounting for losses of $2,950,000. (There were also six assaults, with
segments of the industry is one of the strongest defences against this losses of $1,657,000 and 32 armed robberies ($3,825,000.00).
upsurge in criminal activity.
Of the 60 thefts that took place across Canada in 2009, 10 involved
The most recent Canadian statistics available from Jewellers Vigilance travelling salespersons, and represented a total of $2,140,800 in losses.
Canada (JVC), updated to December 15, 2009, show a very significant spike Other types of crimes included distraction (16 incidents representing
in robberies in the past year. To illustrate: 2007 saw 12 reported robberies a total of $462,715); grab-and-run (19 incidents and $172,548), and
involving merchandise worth a total of $2,841,000. In 2008, there were 28 smash-and-grab (15 incidents and $1,030,980).
incidents, with a comparatively lower total value of $2,403,999. However, in
2009, 44 incidents were reported, with total losses estimated at $8,432,000 These statistics are the best available information, but they still may
– well over three times the previous year’s dollar figures. not paint the complete picture. “Most jewellery crime in Canada is not
reported; it’s really hard to get a handle on the full extent of jewellery
Other types of crimes also increased, though not to the same alarming extent. crime,” says David Sexton, CPCU, Vice President, Loss Prevention with
In 2007, there were 11 break-and-enter crimes, with losses of $3,329,673. In Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company, who was recently elected to the
2008, losses dropped slightly, with 21 incidents valued at a total of $1,455,000. board of Jewelers’ Security Alliance.
There were 20 incidents in 2009 ($2,049,844). When it comes to thefts,
2007 saw 92 incidents with a total value of $1,511,296. In 2008 there were Sexton points out that one explanation for the drop in the U.S. crime
61 incidents ($2,736,546), and 2009 saw 60 incidents ($3,807,043). statistics is the financial slowdown. “You have fewer people travelling in the
States; with fewer people out there, you’re going to have fewer incidents,” he
Taken altogether, JVC reports total dollar figures for jewellery crime says. However, he also believes that U.S. crackdowns on South American
losses as $7,681,969 in 2007, $6,595,545 in 2008 and $14,288,887 in 2009. crime gangs have forced their activity north of the border.
The dramatic increase in 2009 runs exactly counter to crime trends in
the U.S., where some analysts had predicted higher rates of jewellery “This first came to my attention, about two years ago when I was down
crime because of the country’s straitened economic situation. However, in Florida doing a crime seminar with Jewelers’ Security Alliance,”
preliminary 2009 figures provided by Jewelers’ Security Alliance show says John Lamont, Director of Crime Prevention for JVC. “New York
a drop in total jewellery crime losses in the U.S. to 1,505 incidents City police gave a presentation on South American gangs that target
(representing losses of $93.7 million) in 2009, from 1,527 incidents travelling salesmen who are carrying jewellery.”
($105.3 million) in 2008.
In the presentation, Lamont learned that well organized gangs had
Robberies in the U.S. accounted for 219 incidents involving losses of been active in the U.S. for some time, with “probably in excess of 750
$26.6 million in 2008, and 244 incidents involving $32 million in 2009. members spread around in New York City, Miami and Houston,” he
says. However, because of pressure that had been brought to bear by
U.S. jewellery thefts rose slightly, from 794 incidents and $14.3- million local police authorities and the FBI, the New York officers believed, they
in 2008 to 826 incidents and $16.8-million in 2009. The occurrence of were now moving into Canada.
burglaries stayed approximately even; 208 saw 325 incidents and
$21.4-million, while 2009 saw 307 incidents and $21.3-million. On the “When I came back to Canada, I was aware of a travelling salesman who
other hand, off-premise crimes dropped significantly, from 189 incidents had been robbed of his merchandise in an Ontario mall. I contacted
and losses of $43-million in 2008 to 128 incidents and $23.6-million in York Regional Police and passed on the information. As a result, four or
209. This drop is of great significance to the Canadian situation. In fact, five South Americans were arrested for that crime,” Lamont says.
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 71
“These are gangs from South America who are almost always illegal several in Vancouver, and most recently in Winnipeg, so they’re very
immigrants and who are specifically targeting the jewellery industry,” mobile; they travel a lot,” says Lamont, who estimates the average loss
says John Kennedy, President of Jewelers’ Security Alliance. “Virtually per theft at about $100,000.
everyone arrested in these crimes is from Columbia or neighbouring
countries. These gangs operate worldwide: in Hong Kong, at trade shows However, South American gang activity is probably not the only
in China – can you imagine how they would stand out there, and the explanation for the increase in jewellery crime in Canada. “There is
draconian penalties? – and in Dubai, England, France, Italy. For a year another occurrence that jewellers are plagued by: grab-and-run, where
or two they have felt that there were fertile fields in Canada, and that is the thief will look at a piece and then run out of the store. They’ll either
why we have seen this upsurge” target a large diamond or an expensive watch. There has been a real rash
of jewellery store robberies in the Vancouver area,” Lamont says.
The gang activity is simple but effective. “They will actually do months
of surveillance on jewellery locations, and when they see the travelling “I’m not suggesting that these are being carried out by South Americans;
salesman carrying a bag from store to store, they follow him,” Lamont I think it’s completely different. The economic environment may have
says. “They also look for loose diamond events or special watch something to do with it, and there may be more than one group. These
promotions, and that’s what they would target. They would also target incidents usually happen at opening or around closing because there
trade shows.” would be fewer people in the store at those times,” he adds.
Initially, most of these crimes involved distraction thefts. These “In Canada, there’s another issue, in relation to money laundering; as of
might take the form of thieves approaching a salesperson unloading December 31, 2008, Canada brought into force a money laundering act,”
merchandise from the car, and drawing his attention to a $20 bill they Lamont continues. Known officially as The Proceeds of Crime (Money
say he has just dropped in an attempt to get him to take his hands off Laundering) and Terrorist Financing Act (PCMLTFA) and administered
the merchandise long enough for them to simply grab them and run to by the Financial Transactions and Reports Analysis Centre of Canada,
a waiting vehicle. However, the thefts can be more violent, and involve or FINTRAC, the legislation requires financial institutions and others
weapons or threats of physical violence. covered by the legislation to identify customers who conduct financial
transactions, such as depositing funds or buying a money order.
“In the U.S. we’ve seen a great increase in the use of knives to threaten
people. A lot of them used to be stealth; they used to try to trick the But the legislation may be having unintended consequences for the
salesperson into putting down their bag by asking for directions, asking jewellery industry. “If the government is keeping track of large sums
for change, telling them there’s dirt on their coat,” says Kennedy. “The of money, then diamonds and gold can become a source of cash in the
principle place it happens is parking lots outside hotels, retail stores, underworld,” Lamont points out.
restaurants. In the U.S. we’ve seen attacks on jewellers in their homes
and driveways; I don’t think you’ve seen that in Canada.” No matter why incidents occur, “What people have to realize is that some
robbery is not preventable,” says Lamont. “JVC strongly recommends
“The trend is that there will be a rash of these types of occurrences that jewellers never resist in these situations; jewellery can be replaced,
around the Toronto area; then there’ll be a rash in Calgary; we’ve had but lives cannot.” [CJ]
72 CJ february/march 2010 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m
upcoming events
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact paul@rivegauchemedia.com
February | Canada IIJS Signature Goa March | MJSA Expo New York
Alberta Gift Show February 19 - 22 international March 14 - 16
February 21 - 24 Kala Academy International Gem & Jewelry Show Hilton New York
Edmonton Expo Centre, Panjim, Goa, India March 5 - 7 New York, New York
Northlands +91 22 2652 4791 Denver Merchandise Mart 401-274-3840 or 1-800-444-6572
Edmonton, Alberta signature@gjepcindia.com Denver, Colorado info@mjsa.org
416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 www.iijs-signature.org 301-294-1640 www.mjsa.org
www.albertagiftshow.com info@intergem.net
Grapevine Gem, Jewelry www.intergem.com Baselworld
February | & Bead Show March 18 - 25
international February 26 - 28 HKTDC Hong Kong Messe Basel
Business to Business Gem Grapevine Convention Center International Jewellery Show Basel, Switzerland
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504-455-6101 visitor@baselworld.com
February 4 - 12 Hong Kong Convention
info@aksshow.com and Exhibition Centre www.baselworld.com
Gem Mall
Tucson, Arizona www.aksshow.com Wan Chai, Hong Kong, China
601-879-8832 +852 1830 668 International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@glwshows.com International Gem & Jewelry Show exhibitions@hktdc.org March 19 - 21
www.glwshows.com February 26 - 28 hkjewellery.hktdc.com Lester Palmer Event Center
Chase Center on the Riverfront Austin, Texas
Tucson Gem & Mineral Show Wilmington, Delaware International Gem & Jewelry Show 301-294-1640
301-294-1640 March 6 - 7 info@intergem.net
February 11 - 14
info@intergem.net Southfield Pavilion, Southfield www.intergem.com
Tucson Convention Center
Tucson, Arizona www.intergem.com Municipal Complex
520-322-5773 Southfield, Michigan International Gem & Jewelry Show
tgms@tgms.org International Gem & Jewelry Show 301-294-1640 March 19 - 21
www.tgms.org February 26 - 28 info@intergem.net DoubleTree Hotel - Lloyd Center
The Queen Mary www.intergem.com Portland, Oregon
International Gem & Jewelry Show Long Beach, California 301-294-1640
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February 12 - 14 International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net March 12 - 14 www.intergem.com
Valley Forge Convention Plaza
King of Prussia, Pennsylvania www.intergem.com Veterans Memorial
301-294-1640 Columbus, Ohio International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net JA New York Winter Show 301-294-1640 March 26 - 28
www.intergem.com February 28 - March 2 info@intergem.net Seattle Center
Javits Center www.intergem.com Seattle, Washington
International Gem & Jewelry Show New York, New York 301-294-1640
508-743-8506 info@intergem.net
February 19 - 21 International Gem & Jewelry Show
ja@xpressreg.net. March 12 - 14 www.intergem.com
Dulles Expo Center
Chantilly, Virginia www.ja-newyork.com Expo New Mexico
301-294-1640 Albuquerque, New Mexico International Gem & Jewelry Show
info@intergem.net March | Canada 301-294-1640 March 26 - 28
www.intergem.com Montreal Gift Show info@intergem.net Gateway Center
March 7 - 10 www.intergem.com Collinsville, Illinois
Place Bonaventure 301-294-1640
Montreal, Quebec info@intergem.net
416-385-1880 or 1-888-823-7469 www.intergem.com
www.montrealgiftshow.com
w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m february/march 2010 CJ 73
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