How a Roman Shade Folds

All types of Roman shades (Classic,

Hobbled, Relaxed and even top-down)
fold using the same principle. Columns
of rings on the back of the shade are
used to guide lift cords. When the rings
"stack up" they cause a fold in the
shade. The lift cord is tied to the bottom
ring in each column then threaded up
through the remaining rings and through
the pulley mounted directly above that
column of rings on the headrail. All of
the cords are then threaded sideways at
the top of the shade along the mounting
board and exit on one side of the shade.
The shade is operated by pulling on the
lift cords. It folds in accordion-fashion
halfway between each row of rings.
You will most likely be using the
Hardware Calculator to determine your
fold depth and the number of folds. But
you should still understand how your
shade operates.
The Classic Roman shade pulls up from the bottom. Let's start with the first fold, which happens at the
bottom of the shade. The first photo below shows the shade as it is just pulled up. If you squint you can
see the lowest lift ring. The lift cord is tied to this ring. When the cord is pulled, the bottom of the shade
begins to rise. The middle photo below shows the shade with one double fold. The bottom lift ring has hit
the second lift ring. Notice that a second fold has been made halfway between the two lift rings. I call the
lower fold of the fabric a "down" fold. It is on the front side of the shade. I call the upper fold the "up"
fold. It is on the back side of the shade. Every time the bottom of the cord reaches a row of lift rings, it
forms two folds: one "down" fold and one "up" fold. The last photo below shows the shade when the lift
cord has reached the third row of rings. There are now two "down" folds and two "up" folds.
I've found that many of you think in terms of "flaps" rather than folds. A flap is made by one up-fold and
one down-fold in your shade. You can have an even-number or an odd-number of flaps in your shade.
There is one row of lift-cords for each flap.

<br

</br
o Every shade has an even number of folds.
o There are two folds (one "up" and one "down") for every row of lift rings. This equals one
flap.
o The lift rings are sewn on the Up Folds.
This can be seen in the drawing below.

This photograph, which was

taken from below the shade,
shows the folds stacked on top
of each other. The shade is
pulled all of the way up. The
length of the shade in this
position is called the Stackage.
You use this length in the
Hardware Calculator as an input
along with the Finished Shade
Width and the Finished Shade
Length to determine the folding
of your shade.
A top-down shade actually folds in the same manner. The lift rings still stack together and
cause the shade to fold in an accordion manner. The shade drops down, and begins to fold
from the bottom. So the top-part of the shade is always visible. This is important to
remember if you are planning an art shade.

Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on "Measuring Your Window" in the
left-hand navigation column.

Measuring Your Window

The process of designing your Roman
shade is very important. You will be
spending time and money making the
treatment and you will be living with
your completed shade for years. Be sure
to take the time to fully plan your shade.
A Color Board is depicted at the left. I
make one of these out of a manila
folder. I tape a sketch of my room on the
right and tape fabric swatches on the
left. You can place the results of the
Hardware Calculator in the folder and
take it with you on your fabric hunting
trips.
Before measuring your window you
need to decide how to mount your
shade. Detailed instructions then follow
for how to measure for each mounting
option, including French doors.
It may seem premature to think about how to
mount your shades, but you need to decide
before you draw your design. There are three
options: Inside Mount, Outside Mount or
Hybrid Mount.

Your shade will be attached to a mounting board. The board will be screwed into the window trim or wall.
The recommended mounting board is a 1x2 pine board. These are available online on this site, or in a
lumber store or home store. The actual size of the board is usually 3/4 by 1-1/2. You need to decide if
you will be placing your mounting board flat against the wall or window trim or projected. Each of
the three mounting options shown above (inside, outside and hybrid) can be done with a flat or a
projected board.

Mounting a Top-Down Shade

You mount a Top-Down shade the same way that you mount a Classic shade. The only difference is that
you will always be using a Projected Mount (explained below) since there are two sets of hardware and
you need room for each set to operate independently.

The best way to decide how to place your

mounting board is to take a short piece of a
1x2 board and hold it up to your window. I
normally use a Flat Mount when I am placing
the shade directly on the wall above the
window. Even if the window is trimmed, the
depth of the trim is usually the same and the
small side of the 1x2 (about 3/4) and the
shade will fall right over the window trim and
create a perfect air pocket which increases the
insulating properties. I normally use a
projected mount when I am placing the shade
inside a window. If the depth of the window
opening is small, I use a flat mount.

How To Measure Windows

It is easy to measure your windows. Follow the instructions below. If you are really unsure of yourself,
you can hire a professional to measure for you. Check your local Yellow Pages directory, under the
heading "Drapery Installer". You will typically pay around $40 for a quick trip. You can also inquire about
their charges for installing your shades. Sometimes they will measure for free if you will be paying them
to put the shades up later.

Follow these guidelines

for accurate measuring:
Study your window.
A trimmed window
has a wood frame and
may have a sill and an
apron. An untrimmed
window is simply
recessed into the wall,
but may have a
projecting sill and
apron
Sketch the window
you will be
measuring, including
the trim and distances
to the ceiling, floor
and any other objects,
such as light switches.
Measure in three
dimensions. You need
to measure not only
the width and length,
but also the depth of
the window trim and
the window frame.
Use a metal tape for
measuring. Cloth
tapes may stretch or
sag. Measure to the
nearest 1/8.
If you will be
covering more than
one window, measure
every window. They
will often be different
sizes, even though
they look identical.
Take pictures. These
will prove invaluable
later when you are
designing your
shades.
You need three numbers to design your Roman shade: Finished Shade Width, Finished Shade Length and
Ideal Stackage. Each type of shade installation (Inside Mount, Outside Mount and Hybrid Mount) has its
own measuring requirements.
VERY IMPORTANT IF YOU ARE MAKING A TOP-DOWN/BOTTOM-UP SHADE: Be sure to read
the "Hardware Calculator Tips for Top-Down Shades" before measuring your window.
________________________

Inside Mount Shade

Installing a Roman shade inside the window
trim results in the cleanest look. If the window
is framed in wood, the appearance is that of a
picture frame around your shade. The
treatment is out of the way, even when
lowered. The disadvantage of an Inside Mount
Shade is that you will lose part of your view
and light even when the shade is fully raised.
The Stackage will cover the top of your glass.
Follow these guidelines for accurate measuring:
Measure the width and length of the inside of the window.
Measure the depth of the inside of the window frame at the top of the window where the mounting
board will go. This dimension must be at least 3/4 so that the mounting board can be placed inside
the window. If it is not at least deep, you cannot use an inside mount.
Hold a ruler to the top of the window (not at the outside trim, but inside the window). Decide the
Ideal Stackage that you want. If you are making a Top Down shade, place your ruler at the bottom of
the window.
Inside-Mount Roman Shade
Finished Shade Width: the SMALLEST measurement of the width of the inside of your window.
Finished Shade Length: the SMALLEST measurement of the length of the inside of your window.
Ideal Stackage: 15% to 20% of Finished Shade Length
In my book, I recommended subtracting 1/4" from the window width so that the shade would not rub the
sides when raised and lowered. Well, nine more years of making Inside Mount shades has led me to
change that recommendation. Due to the thickness of two layers of front fabric and two layers of lining,
your shade will never come out exactly the desired width. It will always shrink. Measure and cut your
fabric so that your IDEAL shade will be a Finished Width that is the smallest inside window
measurement.
_________________________
Outside Mount Shade
Installing a Roman shade outside the window trim allows
you to raise the shade up to the top of the glass (assuming
that you have adequate wall space between the top of the
window and the ceiling) letting the maximum amount of
light into the room. The sides of the shade usually extend at
least 2 beyond the window trim. The disadvantage of an
Outside Mount is that the Roman shade will be larger,
requiring more fabric, hardware and sewing time.
Follow these guidelines for accurate measuring:
Measure the width of the window frame from the outside of the trim.
Measure the length of the window from the outside of the top trim to the sill. In addition, measure the
space above the window trim to the ceiling.
Hold a ruler to the top of the window and decide the Ideal Stackage that you want. If you are making
a Top Down shade, place your ruler at the bottom of the window.
Measure the depth of the window trim if your window is trimmed with wood. You need to know what
this measurement is in order to decide if you will place your mounting board flat against the wall
above the window or projected.
Measure the depth of the window sill if you have one.

Measure the distance to the first object that is on each side of the window. This might be a wall, a
light switch, or the next window.

Since you will be placing your mounting board on the wall above the window you need to place your
shade several inches above the window trim to allow room for the lifting hardware. In general, I plan on
placing the mounting board about 4" above the top of the window.
Outside-Mount Roman Shade
Finished Shade Width: the LARGEST measurement of the width of the outside of your window + 4"
(this adds 2" to each side). If you are using a Projected Installation (a Top-Down shade will always be a
Projected Installation), add 6" rather than 4" to the width. This is necessary because the shade sticks out
further from the window.
Finished Shade Length: length of the window from the outside of the top trim to the sill plus 4". If your
window does not have a sill, add another inch to the Finished Shade Length to make sure that the entire
window is covered when the shade is lowered.
Ideal Stackage: 15% - 25% of the Finished Shade Length
Make sure that you will not cover up light switches, etc.
You can also begin with your Ideal Stackage and then determine the Finished Shade Length. Suppose I
want a Stackage of 12" and I want the shade to pull up to just below the top window trim. I hold a 12"ruler up to the window so that the bottom of the ruler is where I want the bottom of the fully-raised shade.
I make a light pencil mark on the wall above the window at the top of the ruler. This will be the top of my
shade. Now I simply measure from that mark down to either the window sill, or about 1" past the bottom
of an un-trimmed window. This is my Finished Shade Length.
_________________________
Hybrid Mount Shade
There may be a situation when you want to use a Hybrid
Mount, where the mounting board is attached to the window
trim, but not inside the window. When you cover a French
door, the door is the same as the window trim, and you are
using a Hybrid Mount. Separate directions for a French door
are given below. Follow these guidelines for accurate
measuring:
Measure the width of the window frame from the outside
of the trim.
Measure the length of the window from the outside of
the top trim to the sill.
Hold a ruler to the top of the window and decide the
Ideal Stackage that you want. If you are making a Top
Down shade, place your ruler at the bottom of the
window.
Hybrid-Mount Roman Shade
Finished Shade Width: the LARGEST measurement of the window frame from the outside of the trim
Finished Shade Length: the SMALLEST measurement of the length of the window from the outside of
the top trim to the sill.
Ideal Stackage: 15% - 25% of the Finished Shade Length

You can also make the shade any size you wish. Let's say that you have beautiful, wide trim on your
windows and can't do an Inside-Mount because you have no place to put your mounting board. You can
make your shade so that 2" of the window trim shows on the top and sides your shade.

__________________________
Special Measuring Requirements for a Roman Shade
Mounted on a French Door
When you cover a French door, the door is the same as the
window trim, and you are using a hybrid mount.
Measure the width of the glass, including the small (usually
1/2) trim that holds the glass into the door.
Measure the length of the glass, including the small trim.
Measure the distance from the glass trim to the door handle
and lock. You want the smallest distance. This will be the
furthest out that you shade can extend past the glass and may
only be 1/2. If your door handle is a crank, rather than a
knob, measure to the collar that attaches the handle to the
door. Your shade will drop down behind the handle so you
only need to be concerned with the round part on the actual
door.
Measure the length of the wood trim at both the top and the
bottom of the door. The top portion is normally 4 to 6 and
the bottom portion can be as long as 18.
Hold a ruler to the top of the door (the part that actually
swings open, NOT the trim around the outside) and decide the
Ideal Stackage that you want.
I normally place the top of the shade very near the top of the door.
This way you will be leaving as much glass uncovered as possible
when you raise the shade. The drawing above has the shade
mounted 1/2" below the top of the door. I always place the
mounting board "flat" against the door. This way the shade only
sticks out about 1/2" from the door. In fact, it tends to fall down
right against the glass. I don't normally recommend using a TopDown shade on a French door since the mounting board must be
placed projected. However, if that is what you want and you
realize that the valance at the top of the shade will stick out 1-1/2"
from the door, then go ahead.

French Door-Mounted Roman Shade

Finished Shade Width: the width of the glass plus two times the distance to the handle.
Finished Shade Length: the length of glass plus length of top wood trim minus 1/2" plus 1" on the
bottom (to make sure that you cover up the glass.
Ideal Stackage: about 15% of Finished Shade Length
You can also make the shade any length you wish as long as it is at least a few inches shorter than the
door.

Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on "Using the Hardware (Folding) Calculator"
in the left-hand navigation column.

Using the Hardware (Folding) Calculator

The easiest way to design your Pattern
is by using our online Hardware
Calculator which is located in every
left-hand Navigation column of this web
site. The Calculator not only determines
the type and quantity of hardware you
will need, but it also tells you the Fold
Depth, number of Folds, Lower Drop,
Top Border and the number of lift lines.
When you click on the Hardware
Calculator icon, a pop-up window will
appear. To close the window, click on
the background page. It is best to print
this page and then input the numbers in
each example. If you can't seem to get
the Hardware Calculator to appear on
your screen, see the TIP at the bottom of
this page on how to enable pop-up
windows.
First specify information about your
Roman shade: type (Classic, TopDown/Bottom-Up, Safety Compliant,
etc), installation configuration (Inside
Mount or Outside Mount) and hardware
choices (internal battens yes or no, cord
lock pulley yes or no). Then input your
Finished Width and Finished Length as
well as an Ideal Stackage. Folding
information along with hardware
requirements for your shade are
generated. This page give a number of
examples which show you exactly how
the calculator works.
Everyone is concerned with the Stackage of a Roman shade. The Stackage is defined as the length of the
shade when it is fully raised. A fabric shade cannot duplicate the small Stackage of a manufactured
window treatment such as a mini-blind or wood blinds. Mini-blinds are meant to almost disappear when
raised. This is a plus for this type of treatment, since they are ugly (Terrell's personal opinion). Your fabric
Roman shade is beautiful and having 8" to 18" dressing your windows when your shade is raised is
wonderful.
We will also be using the term "Ideal Stackage". In a perfect world, your finished shade will be exactly
this length when fully raised (or lowered, in the case of a Top-Down shade). Because of the way a shade
folds, this is not always possible. You will most likely be using the online Hardware Calculator which is
located in every left-hand Navigation column. When you input the Finished Shade Width, Finished Shade
Length and Ideal Stackage, the Calculator will recommend the number of folds, fold depth, and Lower
Drop. It will also give you the "Actual" Stackage, which may be different from your Ideal Stackage. For
example, if you requested an Ideal Stackage of 12", the Calculator may return an Actual Stackage of

12.25".
Before we run through some actual numbers, you need to be aware of two more pages. The first gives
Tips for Top-Down shades. The second gives Tips for Safety-Compliant shades. If you are making one of
those types, be sure to read those pages.
Let's try some examples using the Hardware Calculator.
Example 1
Finished Shade Width: 42-7/8"
Finished Shade Length: 70-1/2"
Ideal Stackage: 12"
Use the above values to fill in the top section of the Calculator. For this first example, specify: Classic
Roman, "Yes" for wooden or plastic battens, "No" for Cord Lock. You can use the Conversion Table,
which is inside the yellow box, to convert your 7/8" into 0.875". Now click on "Calculate". The "Your
Results" section is completed based upon your input values. There is a very important paragraph titled
"Placement of Lift Rings and/or Battens". We will discuss that paragraph after trying several variations of
our input values.
Let's examine the results.
Shade Type: Classic Roman Shade
Shade Width: 42.875
Shade Length: 70.5
Battens: Yes
Cord Lock: No

Stackage: 12.5
# of Folds: 8
Fold Depth: 7.25
Lower Drop: 9.5
Top Border: 3
# of Lift Lines: 4

You should verify that you input the correct numbers for the width and length of your shade and that you
checked all of the correct boxes (type of shade, battens yes/no, cord lock yes/no). Everything checks out,
except for the Stackage. You wanted an Ideal Stackage of 12". But the Calculator says you have an Actual
Stackage of 12.5". That is because for this Shade Length, you cannot have a Stackage of 12". You have
two choices. You can stick with a Stackage of 12.5", or you can try something else. Let's say that this is an
Inside-Mount shade and you really want to minimize the Stackage so that you can maximize the light
coming in the window when your shade is raised.
Example 2
Let's see what happens when you change your Ideal Stackage to 11.5". Go back up to the top of the
Hardware Calculator, change Ideal Stackage to 11.5 and click "Calculate".
Finished Shade Width: 42-7/8"
Finished Shade Length: 70-1/2"
Ideal Stackage: 11.5"
New Results with Ideal Stackage of 11.5":
Shade Type: Classic Roman Shade
Shade Width: 42.875
Shade Length: 70.5
Battens: Yes
Cord Lock: No

Stackage: 11.5
# of Folds: 8
Fold Depth: 7.375
Lower Drop: 8.5
Top Border: 3

# of Lift Lines: 4

Your Actual Stackage is now the same as your Ideal Stackage.

Example 3:
Many of you like to use a cord lock pulley. Let's look at what happens to the folding when you specify
Yes for the Cord Lock Pulley. Go back up to the top of the Hardware Calculator, change the "I will be
using a cord lock to "Yes" and click "Calculate".
Shade Type: Classic Roman Shade
Shade Width: 42.875
Shade Length: 70.5
Battens: Yes
Cord Lock: Yes

Stackage: 10.5
# of Folds: 10
Fold Depth: 6
Lower Drop: 6.5
Top Border: 4
# of Lift Lines: 4

Just by specifying Yes for the cord lock, we get totally different folding results! The reason is that a very
important parameter has changed: the Top Border. In our first two examples, we have a Top Border of 3".
Now we have a Top Border of 4". We have to leave more room at the top of the shade because the cord
lock pulley hangs down further than the flat pulley (or a screw eye). The lift rings can only be raised to
the bottom of the hardware, so we have to leave more room at the top when we are using a cord lock. That
leaves less of the shade that can fold up. We ended up with a smaller Stackage, but also two extra folds
(remember that you will always have an even number of folds: an Up Fold and a Down Fold) and the
Fold Depth is smaller. This means that you will have to sew on an extra row of lift rings (the rings go only
on the Up Folds). Since you only have four lift lines, this means that you will need to sew on four extra
rings. If you want to use a cord lock, this seems like a good trade-off.
You will not always get an extra set of folds when you specify Yes for the cord lock. It depends upon the
length of your shade and the Ideal Stackage. You should play around with the Calculator to see what
changes. Also a very important thing to realize is that there is a slight inconsistency with the Calculator
when you specify Top-Down/Bottom-Up or Top-Down Only. Say "No" for Cord Lock Pulley, even if you
will be using one. This is because the shade does not "hide" the mounting board hardware. You will often
get "better" folding results if you do this.
Example 4:
Now let's look at changing one other item. What if you have never used battens in a Roman shade.
Perhaps you want to make your shades the "old-fashioned" way. To see what effect this has on your
Pattern, simply change the statement "I will be using wooden or plastic battens" to "No" and click
"Calculate".
Let's examine the results without battens:
Shade Type: Classic Roman Shade
Shade Width: 42.875
Shade Length: 70.5
Battens: No
Cord Lock: Yes

Stackage: 10.5
# of Folds: 10
Fold Depth: 6
Lower Drop: 6.5
Top Border: 4
# of Lift Lines: 6

Everything is the same except now you have 5 lift lines. Your results when you said you were using
battens had only 4 lift lines. Since you have 10 folds and half of them will have lift rings, you will have to
sew on 5 more lift rings. Now you are getting concerned. Why are there so many lift lines? The battens
not only assure that the shade will fold perfectly, but they allow you to space the lift lines further apart
since the shade won't sag between the lift rings.
TIP: The Hardware Calculator is in a Pop-Up window. If nothing happens when you click on a link, you
should check if you have blocked Pop-Ups on your Internet Browser. The Hardware Calculator is a popup window. If you are using Microsoft Explorer as a browser, you can check by clicking on the Tools tab
at the top of your screen. Then click on Pop-Up Blocker. If it says "Turn Off Pop-Up Blocker", click on it.
Now it should say "Turn On Pop-Up Blocker". If your browser is allowing pop-ups and you still can't
access the calculator, you may have another program that is blocking them. I have the Google toolbar on
my computer and it also has a Pop-Up blocker. However, I can click on the little icon (it looks like three
little overlapped rectangles) when I am in a web site and it allows pop-ups for that site. Another item to
check is your anti-virus and/or firewall program.
If you are making a Top-Down shade, read Hardware Calculator Tips for Top-Down Shades. If you are
making a Safety-Compliant shade read Hardware Calculator Tips for Safety-Compliant Shades. Then
continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on Sketch Your Pattern in the left-hand navigation
column.

Calculator Tips for Top-Down Shade

Unlike a Classic Roman shade, your

Top-Down shade does not cover the
lifting hardware. It can only be raised to
the bottom of the mounting hardware.
The hardware is covered with a small
valance. The "treatment" is the entire
system: shade, mounting board and
valance. You input the shade length and
width measurements - not the treatment
measurements - when using the
Hardware Calculator for a Top-Down
shade.
You use the Finished SHADE Width and Finished SHADE Length when you use the Hardware
Calculator. When you make your top-down shade, you will first make the mounting board. This way you
can make the shade the correct length since it "stops" at the bottom of the lifting hardware. However, you
have to start somewhere, so you can use an estimate of the Headrail Length to determine your folding
specifics and hardware requirements.
Referring to the drawing at the top of the page: Finished Length = Headrail Length + Finished Shade
Length.
The Headrail Length is the length of the entire mounting "stuff": the board and the hardware (flat pulleys,
screw eyes, cord lock pulleys). The assumption is that you are using a standard 1x2 board in a Projected
Installation. The measurements below are for the items we sell in our Online Store. If you purchase your
parts locally or from another source, then you will have to adjust the numbers.
Board: 3/4" (assumes projected mount using a 1x2 board)
Screw Eye: 7/8"

Flat Pulley: 5/8"

Cord Lock Pulley: 1-1/2"
To get the Headrail Length, you add up the length of the Board and the longest hardware item you are
using.
Headrail length using only flat pulleys: 3/4" + 5/8" = 1-3/8"
Headrail length using only screw eyes: 3/4" + 7/8" = 1-5/8"
Headrail length using flat pulleys and a cord lock pulley: 3/4" + 1-1/2" = 2-1/4"
Headrail length using screw eyes and a cord lock pulley: 3/4" + 1-1/2" = 2-1/4"
Now you can determine the Finished SHADE Length: Finished Shade Length = Finished (Treatment)
Length - Headrail Length.
If you are making an Inside Mount Shade, you should subtract an additional 1/4" which is the
diameter of the lift rings. It is better to have a small gap at the top of the shade (this is covered up with the
Valance) than to not be able to raise the shade all of the way up.
Using the Hardware (Folding) Calculator for a Top-Down/Bottom-Up Shade
FINISHED Width of Shade: same as for Classic Shade
FINISHED Length of Shade: We just calculated it above. It is shorter than the length of the entire
treatment.
Ideal Stackage: The shade will stack in the Down position: this is the "Down Stackage". You need to input
this for Ideal Stackage. The "Up Stackage" will be larger. The shade will fold up to the same Stackage as
it folds down, but you also have the hardware to consider. I usually don't have the shade disappear into
the Valance for a Top-Down shade. This way I can make a shorter Valance. However, if you want your
shade to disappear into the Valance when you raise it, you should add the Headrail Length to your Ideal
Stackage to get your actual Stackage. Then add at least an inch or so to the length of the Valance so that
the shade really will disappear when pulled up.
The length of the mounting board and Hook & Loop Fastener requires a little explanation. For an Inside
Mount shade, the board is the same size as the Finished Shade Width. The quantity of hook and loop
fastener (Velcro) is the same also. This is stapled onto the front of the board and sewn onto the top back of
your valance. The shade hangs freely from the top-down lift cords. For an Outside Mount shade, the
calculator assumes that the mounting board extends 1-inch past the shade on each side. That means that
the length of the mounting board is 2-inches more than the Finished Shade Width. The quantity of hook
and loop fastener allows you to wrap the valance around both sides and the front of the mounting board.

Calculator Tips for Safety-Compliant Shade

In order for your Roman shade to be

safety-compliant, the lift cords (the
cords on the back of the shade) must be
enclosed in a cord shroud. Furthermore,
the spacing between the lift rings has to
be less than or equal to 8-inches. We'll
discuss how this affects the Hardware
Calculator Results

The first thing you will notice for a Safety-Compliant shade is that you will have lots of folds. To
eliminate the possiblilty of accidental strangulation of a small child, the lift cords are threaded through a
cord shroud. The shroud is attached to the lift rings. The "combined loop" formed by the fabric shade and
the cord shroud must be less than about 19" (the size of a small child's head). The distance between the
lift rings has to be half of this, which is 9.5". We have been conservative and set the maximum spacing at
8". This means that the maximum Fold Depth is 4". Yes, we do need to be conservative because it is easy
to leave a little slack in the shroud when attaching it to the lift rings.
Another requirement is that the combined loop created at the top of the shade from the last lift ring (and
cord shroud attachment) to the bottom of the lifting hardware (such as the flat pulleys and cord lock) has
to be less than 12-inches. That limits the length of the Top Border. You may have a really long Lower
Drop due to this fact and because you have a small Fold Depth.

Sketch Your Pattern

You have measured your window and
determined the Finished Shade Width,
Finished Shade Length and Stackage of
your Roman shade. You are now ready
to sketch your "Pattern" for your Classic
Roman shade. You will use this drawing
during the construction process. Your
Pattern will also include all of the
information you need to purchase fabric,
lining and hardware. Use the results
from the Hardware (Folding) Calculator
to sketch a pattern for your shade.
All of the examples still show a Classic Roman shade, not a Top-Down shade. You will have to modify
your design if you are making a Top-Down shade. The only differences are that you cut your front fabric
and lining 10" longer than the Finished Shade Length (rather than 8" longer) and the Pattern is for your
shade, not the overall treatment (which includes the Headrail).
Print a copy of the Pattern Template page. You will need a pencil and eraser, calculator, ruler (optional), a
red pen and a blue pen.
Step 1. Fill in all of the information at the bottom of the template using the printout from the Hardware

Calculator. Circle either left-hand side or right-hand side for the Cord Pull and the type of Mount (Inside
or Outside, Flat or Projected). Note that you can have any combination for the Mounting Type:
Inside/Projected, Outside/Flat, Outside/Projected, etc.

Step 2. Complete the very bottom section of the Pattern Template by calculating the Cut Front Fabric
width and length and the Cut Lining width and length using the formulas that have been provided.

Step 3. Using a pencil, draw your shade inside the large square on the Pattern Template. If you like to be
precise, you can use a ruler and draw to-scale. I just sketch. Draw a rectangle and label Finished Width
and Finished Length.

Step 4. Draw a dashed line near the bottom

of the shade across the width of your shade
in the approximate location of the Lower
Drop. This will be the location of your lowest
row of lift rings and your lowest batten, if
you are using them. Write the size of the
Lower Drop in this area.

Step 5. Now you need to draw the fold lines

on your Pattern. The Calculator printout
gives you the number of folds and the Fold
Depth. You already drew the lowest fold line,
since that is the location of the Lower Drop.
Draw the rest of the dashed fold lines by
measuring up (by eye) a distance equal to
the Fold Depth. The total number of
horizontal dashed lines on your drawing is
the same as the number of folds given by
the Hardware Calculator. Write the size of
the Folds in each area. Notice that you are
writing one less Fold size than your total. We
will label the last Fold in the next step.

Step 6. Measure up one

more Fold Depth and draw a
dotted line. Make sure this is
different from the dashed
fold lines. Your shade will
NOT fold on this dotted line.
The distance between this
dotted line and the top of
your shade is the Top Border.
Write the sizes of the last
fold and Top Border in each
area.
Step 7. Use your calculator
to add all of the numbers
together to verify that they
equal the Finished Shade
Length.
Step 8. Up Folds and Down
Folds. Using a pencil, label
your folds. Begin at your
lowest dashed line. This is an
Up Fold. The next dashed
line is a Down Fold. Continue
labeling your dashed lines
until you reach the top line.
This will be a Down Fold. Do
not label the dotted line that
shows the location of the Top
Border.

Now you need to add the hardware to your

drawing.
Step 9. Begin with the internal battens.
Using a red pen, draw over each dashed line,
beginning at the lowest one. You will have an
even number of battens. Do NOT draw a red
line on the dotted line at the top of your
shade that depicts the Top Border. If you are
not using battens, you can skip this step.
Now you need to add the "hardware" to your
drawing.

Step 10. Using a blue pen, draw your vertical lift lines. You will always have a lift line at each side of the
shade. Typically they are about 1" in from the edge. Draw these two vertical lines in blue ink beginning at
the top of the shade and ending at the Lower Drop (not at the bottom of the shade). Refer to your
Hardware Calculator printout for the total number of lift lines. If you have a total of three, draw the third
line in the center of the shade. If you have four lift lines, draw the remaining two about equidistance
between the outside two. If you have five lift lines, draw one in the center of the shade and the remaining
two half-way between the outside line and the center line. The example below shows six lift lines.

A comment about the location of lift lines. This issue seems to really bother a lot of you. Your Pattern
needs to show the approximate location and the correct number of lift lines. The exact location of your lift
lines and lift rings on your shade will be determined when you build your mounting board. You will cut
your board to the correct size, typically 1/4" shorter than your Finished Shade Width. You will then attach
either pulleys or screw eyes to the board. One pulley will go as close to each edge of the board as
possible. The remaining pulleys will be equally spaced between the two outside pulleys. The centers of the
pulleys or screw eyes determine the exact location of your lift lines.
Step 11. It is time to add your lift rings. The lift rings will be sewn on each Up Fold at each lift line
intersection. Use your pencil and begin at the bottom of the shade. Draw a blue circle at the intersection

of each lift line and Up Fold. Notice that the top row of lift rings is quite a way down from the top of the
shade. Do NOT draw lift rings on the dotted line that marks the Top Border.

Step 12. Your drawing has the hardware

"showing through". However, your sketch is a
"working" pattern and depicts the front of the
shade. Keeping this in mind, draw the location
of the pull cords where they will exit the shade.
If you are right-handed, this will most likely be
on the right side of the shade. If it will be
easier to access cords from the left-hand side,
draw them there. Also note where you want the
cords to end when they are tied off. I stand at
the window to be covered and put my arm
straight out. That is where you want the cords
to hang when the shade is all of the way down.

Step 13. Sketch your Headrail in the area above your shade. Draw in three dimensions so you can easily
see whether you will be mounting your shade with a Flat Installation or a Projected Installation. Draw a
pulley or screw eye at each lift line location. I also draw the hook fastener on the board. This way I have a
reminder that the pulleys go on the "bottom" of the board and the Velcro goes on the "front" of the board
at the top edge.

Congratulations. You have made your very own Pattern for your very own Roman shade. Keep this
pattern in a safe place. You will refer to it at each stage of your construction process.
For a copy of the complete Pattern Template Example, click here.

I received a wonderful suggestion from Phyllis Franklin of Marion, Ohio:

Thank you for your wonderful web site and the instructions for making Roman shades.
I have made several in the past couple of years using your great instructions.
Since I am a "visual learner" and need to actually see something before I start the actual work here is an
idea I would like to pass on to you . I use calculator paper. I am sure you know what this is but just to be
sure...it is used in calculators that give a printed output. It can be purchased at an office supply store or
at discount stores. (A comment from Terrell, we offer this in our online store. We call it Adding Machine
Paper.)
Cut a piece of calculator paper several inches longer than the cut length of the front fabric.
On this strip of paper
1. make a line for the cut edge of the top of the fabric,
2. measure down 2 inches and make a line to mark the top of the mounting board.
3. measure down the fold depth (for example: 7") + 3/4" (screw eyes) and 3/4" (the lift rings)
and make a line to represent the first fold.
4. measure down and mark lines for the remaining folds (for example: each line is 7" apart)
5. measure down and make a line for the lower drop.
6. finally make a line 6" down from the lower drop edge for the 3" double hem allowance.
Take the folded paper to your window and let it unfold and you will see just where the folds will be. If the
fold depth needs to be adjusted a little you can just erase your lines, re-mark and try again. The paper
can be folded and re-folded until you come up with the exact fold depth you need. Use a warm iron to
smooth out previous folds before re-folding. Since paper will not stretch, you can use it to mark your
fabric for the top turn under and the hem line.

Fabric, Hardware and Tools

You have your Pattern drawn and you

are probably getting very excited about
making your Roman shade. It is time to
gather all of the items you need to make
your shade. This is a discussion on
appropriate fabrics, Roman shade
hardware and a few helpful tools used to
make your shade and your mounting
board.

Fabrics and Linings for Roman Shades

You can use a multitude of fabrics for the front of your Roman shade. My own preference is high-quality
100% cotton. I use fabrics marketed to quilters. I love the wide range of colors that are now available. For
those of you who aren't quilters, you should visit a local quilt fabric store. You will find very few calicos.
Stores that target art quilters will have a wide range of 100% cotton batik fabrics and may also carry
hand-dyed pieces.
There are two possible disadvantages when using quilting cottons to make window shades. First, they
almost always come in widths of 42" to 45". Decorator fabrics come in 54" widths. So you are more
likely to have to seam quilting cottons to achieve the required width of your shade. If you are making
pieced Roman shades, this is never an issue, as you will be sewing together hundreds of fabrics anyway.
Secondly, quilting cottons do not have a fabric protectant finish. This is not really a problem as you can
spray your shade with a product like Scotchgard before installation.
If I can't find what I am looking for in the quilt fabric shop, I will visit a full-range store that also carries
decorator fabrics. I still look for the 100% cotton fabrics, because I feel that they hang better. I don't
particularly like the heavy weight tapestry fabrics, both because that is because of my own style and they
fray easily. You may want that look. If you know how to sew them, sheers make beautiful Roman shades.
Great Fabrics for Roman shades:

100% high-quality cotton - you need to Scotchgard these after you have made your shade

100% high-quality cotton decorator fabrics - these are usually already treated with a fabric protectant.
Check the tag on the bolt.

High-quality blends of cotton and polyester - you need to Scotchgard these after you have made your
shade

Sheer fabrics that have plenty of "form" to them, don't use flimsy, stretchy sheers

High quality Linen

Silk - note that many silks that are not specifically designed for window treatments are very unstable to
light. Be sure to line them with a good drapery lining and only put them on windows where they do not
receive sunlight on the front of the shade.

Not recommended for Roman shades:

Heavy decorator fabrics

Loosely woven fabrics
Stretchy fabrics

Linings for Roman Shades

I always back my shades with a drapery lining. One of the most important reasons to do this is to provide
protection from ultraviolet light for the fabric on the front of your shade and also for your furniture and
floors. I like using a light-weight lining that lets the sun filter in, but still provides privacy. You can
purchase drapery lining in any general fabric store. It comes in large rolls and is usually 48" to 54" wide.
Some linings are available in widths up to 104".
Reasons to back your shade with a high quality drapery lining

provide protection from ultraviolet light

provide insulation, both from heat in the summer and cold in the winter
provide added stability to your shade
provide a means to "hide" the internal parts of the shade, such as battens and weight rods
provide room-darkening properties (when using Blackout lining)

I personally like Roc-lon Thermalsuede lining, which is made by Rockland Industries and is widely
available. It has a cotton/polyester front and is backed with a thin foam (not rubber) coating. It is stable
and the shade lining can be cut either on the horizontal or the vertical, whichever involves purchasing less
yardage. As its name suggest, Thermalsuede was developed as an insulating lining. It's amazing how
effective it is in keeping both the heat and the cold out of your room. At the same time, it is light-filtering,
rather than light-blocking. I really like this property since the room is not totally dark when you enter in
the morning. I lower my shades during the summer daytime to block the intense Colorado sunshine. My
shades "glow" with the backlight and the room takes on a wonderful, cool tone.

Another lining that you may be using is Blackout. This lining is used when you want to completely block
out the light coming in a window and is commonly used in bedrooms and home theaters. If you think you
need to use this lining for added insulation, I would question the assumption that it is necessary.
Thermalsuede, as already mentioned, performs almost as well as Blackout in terms of insulation.
Blackout lining is about twice as heavy as Thermalsuede. Keep that in mind if you are making a large
shade.
I use one more variety of lining: Rain-No-Stain, also from Rockland Industries. It is designed for
situations where your shade will (or might) get wet. This means for a shade on a window IN the shower
or tub area. It is not necessary for shades in the bathroom that are exposed to a damp environment.
Take your Pattern Sketch to the fabric store. You have the cut sizes of both at the bottom of the page. If
the required Cut Width of your fabric and/or lining is wider than the width of your fabric, you will have to
join two or more fabric widths. Standard practice is to place one full width in the center of the shade and
two smaller widths on each side. If you will have a lift line running down the center of the shade, it is
alright to have a center seam instead. I use a 1/4" seam to join two sections of fabric together. If you are
using heavy-weight fabric, use a 1/2" seam. Be sure to include this seam allowance when you are
determining how much fabric to purchase. If you are unsure about quantities, show your Pattern Sketch to
a clerk in the fabric store. They are usually very helpful and can make sure you purchase the correct
yardage. The Hardware Calculator gives a recommended yardage for 54"-wide lining. This is a rough
estimate of the amount of lining you will need to make your shade. Be sure to make your own calculation
before purchasing material.
Hardware Decisions Let's go through the Hardware Requirements on your Hardware Calculator printout
and discuss your options. All items on your printout are available in our Shopping Area on this site. Most
items are also available locally. You can read the "More Details" page for each hardware item for
suggestions on where to purchase items in your area.
Internal Plastic Battens The first four items are Plastic Battens.
If you checked Yes for the statement "I will be using wooden
or plastic battens." your printout will give a quantity for one of
the four sizes of battens. It also tells you to cut the battens to a
certain length. You do this with kitchen shears or wire cutters.
This is the one item we will not pre-cut for you.

I have been using internal battens in my Roman shades for

over 15 years. I LOVE them. Why? Two reasons. 1. If you use
battens in the fold lines, your shades will fold up perfectly,
even the first time you raise them. Most directions for making
Roman shades do not include placing battens on the fold lines.
Most Roman shades also "bunch-up" when you raise them and
require "training" so that they fold cleanly. You will spend
many hours making your shade. Do you really want to fuss
with it every time you raise it? 2. Battens also allow you to
space your lift lines much further apart than normal. Instead of
the standard 6" to 8" horizontal spacing, there can be as much
as 20" between ring columns. That means you have to sew on a
lot fewer rings.
Plastic Batten Splice If your Finished Shade Width
is larger than 60" (5-feet), you will need a Plastic
Batten Splice to join two battens. The Hardware
Calculator assumes that you will cut pieces to
size, so you may only get one extra batten. If you
are not using battens, this will say NA (not
applicable).

Flat Pulley This item is used on the mounting

board to direct the lift lines up and out the top
side of the shade. They are used instead of screw
eyes. If you are using screw eyes, simply
substitute them for this item. Why do you
recommend using pulleys instead of the standard
screw eyes on the headrail? Have you ever used
both hands to pull up a fabric shade? I can
guarantee you that shade had screw eyes on the
headrail to direct the lift cords. You can make an
amazingly large shade and lift it easily if you
thread your lift lines through pulleys. They are
essential for large shades. In fact, I prefer the
"feel" so much that I use them on even the
smallest shade. The quality of operating your
shade should match the custom look of your
fabric front.
Knot Screw Eye This item should say NA (not
applicable) unless you are making a Top-Down
shade and you are NOT using a cord lock pulley.
You only use a Knot Screw Eye (a very small
screw eye) if you are making a Top-Down shade
without a cord lock pulley.

Cord Lock Pulley If you specified that you would

be using a cord lock pulley, this line will say you
need one. The Hardware Calculator computes
quantities for one shade. You only need one cord
lock pulley for a shade. It is placed at the edge of
the mounting board, with a Flat Pulley mounted
in-tandem to direct the cords into the locking
mechanism.

Hook and Loop Fastener You will be attaching

your shade to the mounting board using hook and
loop fastener (Velcro). Why do I recommend
using Velcro to attach the shade to the mounting
board instead of simply stapling it to the top of
the board? I made my first shade the
"conventional" way by stapling it to the mounting
board. Of course, my first shade was two large
panels on one board, which was for a double
sliding door. Picture this: here I am on a tall
ladder, underneath the shade, trying to hold up
the board (with shades attached) and screw it to
the angle irons. My arms were aching and my
neck hurt. Then I climb down from under the
shades, only to see that they are hanging
crooked. So I try to remove the staples, ripping a
few holes in the fabric (my beautiful pieced
shades that I have spent hours and hours sewing)
and attempt to re-staple them while the board is
still attached to the wall. Well, that didn't work,
so I took the board down, re-stapled the shade,
climbed back under the shades and started over. I
vowed to never again do that, and have used
hook and loop fastener on all of my shades since
then.

The fastener holds even the largest shade. In

order to un-mate the fasteners, you have to pull
out from the window. The force on the shade
(don't forget, I am a physicist!) is downward. The

shades do not come off all by themselves no

matter how large or heavy they are. You can find
"soft" Velcro in a general sewing store like
JoAnn's Fabrics. Be sure to get the soft, sew-on
variety. It is about half as thick (and twice as
expensive) as the regular Velcro. You can also
purchase soft hook and loop fastener at our
Online Store. When you try to sew regular-weight
Velcro to the top (through two-thickness of fabric
and two-thickness of lining), the shade top
shrinks noticeably in width. Using the soft Velcro
fixes this problem.

Lift Ring. The quantity given by the Hardware

Calculator should be same as the number of rings
you drew on your Pattern. Be sure that your lift
rings are stable to ultraviolet light since they are
on the back of your shade and will be exposed to
sunlight.
If your shade will be used in a room where
children will be playing or sleeping, you may want
to use our new Child-Safe lift rings. They are
designed to release the lift cord with excessive
force.
Lift Cord The quantity given by the Hardware
Calculator might seem like a lot based upon the
size of your shade. Each cord goes the length of
your shade, across the top and then back down
again. Since the Calculator has no way of knowing
where you want the cords to end on the side of
your shade, it simply doubles the length of the
shade and adds in the width (for each lift line).
This way, you will have enough cord. Roman
shade lift cord comes in various sizes, usually
somewhere between 1-mm and 2-mm diameter.
Once again, be sure that the cord is stable to
ultraviolet light. It should also be tightly woven so
that it will be resistant to abrasion, especially if
you insist on using screw eyes.

Cord Drop This item is used to finish-off the end

of your lift cords. You will need one of these for
each shade. Be sure that it has some "weight" to
it so that the cords hang nicely.
The cord drops are designed for multiple cords.
You will be braiding all of your lift cords together.
This is considered a child-safe procedure IF YOU
USE A CORD CLEAT (next item) TO KEEP THE
CORDS OUT OF REACH. If you want truly childsafe dangling cords, then you should use our Cord
Tassels, which hold ONLY ONE Cord, so that there
is never a loop.
Cord Cleat You need one of these for each shade
if you are NOT using a cord lock pulley. If you
specified that you were using a cord lock pulley,
the quantity will read NA (not applicable).
A note on the "Not Applicable". To be Child-Safe,
EVERY shade should use a cord cleat to keep the
cords out of reach of children.

Mounting Board You will probably be using a 1x2

board that is good quality pine. The actual
measurement of the board will be about 3/4" by
1-3/4", due to loss when it is milled. The length of
the board will be cut to 1/4" shorter than the
Finished Shade Width.

Stiffener Board You only use a Stiffener Board if

you are making a Top-Down shade. It is slipped
into a pocket at the top of the shade and prevents
the top from sagging when lowered.

Weight Rod: Aluminum or Steel. The Hardware

Calculator will recommend the correct type of
weight rod based upon the size of your shade.
You will have one weight rod for each shade. You
will cut the rod 1.25" shorter than the Finished
Shade Width since it will be slipped into the hem
of the lining.

Rod Splice If your Finished Shade Width is larger

than 60" you will need a rod splice to join two
rods. You should join your rods before cutting to
1.25" shorter than the Finished Shade Width.

Angle Iron You only use angle irons if you are

making a Top-Down shade. These directions have
you attach the mounting board for a Classic
Roman shade directly to your wall or window trim
without an angle iron.

Lining (54 wide)

This is a rough estimate of the amount of lining
you will need to make your shade. Be sure to
make your own calculation before purchasing
material.

Supplies
The very bottom of the Hardware Calculator results lists four supply items. Let's review each of these
items.
Fabric Glue. If you are using internal battens, you will be gluing them inside your shade. This glue was
developed for permanently attaching sequins to T-shirts. It works perfectly for gluing your plastic battens
to the fabric shade. It dries clear and remains flexible even after hanging in your window for years.
Regular white glue (such as Elmer's glue) becomes brittle when exposed to sun. Your battens will just fall

off after a few months in your window.

Adding Machine PaperYou need this item when sewing a foam-backed lining to the front fabric if your
sewing machine does not have a walking presser foot. It prevents the presser foot from sticking on the
foam and shifting your fabrics when you are stitching. More information can be found in the directions on
sewing the side seams.
Scotchgard Fabric Spray Use this spray to protect your shade from soil and grease. If you are using
decorator fabric, it may already be treated with a stain-resistant finish. Check the bolt.
Button & Craft Thread Use this strong thread to sew on your lift rings. A special glace starch finish
prevents tangling and knots, and provides abrasion resistance. The color of the thread should match your
front fabric. If you use regular thread, you have to take double the number of stitches to attach your lift
rings.
Tools for Making Roman Shades
There are two distinct set of "tools" that you need to easily make a Roman shade. If you don't already
have these items, it is worthwhile investing in a set. You only purchase the tools once and then you use
them over and over to make shades for your whole house (and your sister's house and your daughter's
house and ...). You will have to guard your items, because you will find that your kids and spouse will
covet your tools. The first set are Fabric Measuring and Cutting tools. The second set are Mounting Board
"Manufacturing" tools.
Fabric Measuring and Cutting Tools
The fabric tools required to make a Roman shade are quite simple and are shown below. For those of you
who have never used a rotary cutter, I urge you to purchase one and give it a try. They almost make the
fabric shears obsolete. All general fabric stores, as well as quilt fabric stores, carry items 1, 3, 5, 6-8. You
will need to go to a hardware store or a home improvement store to find an aluminum ruler, steel tape
measure and Carpenter's square.
1. Self-healing plastic cutting
mat. I like a large mat (24" x
35"). I have 4 of these and as
my project gets larger, I butt
several mats together.
2. Aluminum ruler (48" and 72")
These are invaluable when
squaring your shade.
3. Quilter's ruler. This seethrough ruler is used with the
rotary cutter to accurately cut
your fabric.

4. Steel tape measure.

Don't use a cloth tape
measure, it will stretch.
I regularly use two of
these when I am in the
final sewing stages to
make sure the shade is
the correct size.
5. Marking pens. I use a
lead pencil and
sometimes a white

charcoal pencil.

6. Seam ripper. Boy I hate to use these, but sometimes I goof. Oh yes, you also need this to carefully cut a
hole in the lining for the weight rod.
7. Rotary cutter. This works just like a pizza cutter. I like the medium size, the blade is about 1-3/4" in
diameter.
8. Fabric shears. I only use these for rough-cuts when I am cutting lining off the bolt. I always use the
rotary cutter when actually cutting things to the correct size.
9. Carpenter's square. Absolutely necessary when trimming your side seams (perpendicular to the bottom
of your shade) and top (perpendicular to the sides of your shade).
One item is not in the photograph: you will need straight pins. I use long silk pins (they have a very small
head) and also long glass-headed pins.

Mounting Board Manufacturing Tools

The non-sewing tools required to make a Roman shade are quite simple and are shown below. If you are
mechanical enough to use a sewing machine, you can master these tools. They are quite inexpensive and
every woman (and man) should own them. Visit your local hardware store.

1. Screwdriver. This is used to turn the

screws used to attach the pulleys and
Cord Locks to the mounting board,
attach the board itself to the wall or
window trim and attach the cord cleat to
your wall. I use Phillips head screws,
and so use a Phillips head screwdriver.
2. Hacksaw. This saw comes with a
metal-toothed band that is used to cut
the metal weight rods used in the bottom
of the shade. It cuts very hard materials,
but takes patience. When I am cutting a
3/8ths-inch steel rod, I saw for about
100-strokes, take a break and then saw
again, repeating until I am through the
whole rod. See Items 6 and 8 also.

Note that you don't need this

item if you buy your rod from
us. We custom cut the rods
free-of-charge.
3. Ice Pick. I use this tool for two purposes. It can be used in place of an awl to create a "starter" hole for
screws. For example, to attach the pulley to the board, hold it in the correct place then make holes where the
two screws will go. I also use it when threading lift cords through the cord drop.
4. Hammer. Use this for all pounding activities: completing the stapling process (for those of us with weak
hands), making a starter hole with the ice pick (tap on the wood handle, rather than push down with your
hand), etc.

5. Wire Cutters. Use this to cut the plastic Roman shade ribs (battens) to the correct size. You can also use
a wire stripper for this purpose.

6. C-Clamps. Use these clamps to hold the weight rods and mounting boards while you saw away. If your
are lucky enough to have a vise, use that instead.

7. Staple gun. Use this to attach fabric to your mounting board for a finished look. You also staple the
hook fastener portion of the Velcro to the mounting board using a staple gun. This tool is often hard for a
woman to use, especially if you have small hands. Just take your time and use both hands to squeeze the
handle if necessary. Then use that hammer to drive the staples the rest of the way in. You don't need very
long staples. I prefer 1/4" ones, or at most, 3/8".

8. Metal file (the number 8 is hard to read, it is sitting on the top of a piece of sandpaper). Use this to
remove any sharp edges on your metal weight rod after you cut it down to the correct length. You can use
a metal nail file if you wish. The sandpaper is used to remove rough edges from the mounting board.
Once again, you don't need these items if you buy your mounting board and rods from us. We clean off
the sharp edges.
9. Hand saw. This is used to cut the wood mounting board to the correct length. Secure with C-clamps
when sawing (see Item 6). Note that you don't need this item if you buy your mounting board from us. We
custom cut the boards free-of-charge.
Nice to haves: an electric drill is wonderful. You can use this to drill pilot holes for your screws and to
attach your screws using a Philips-head drill bit.

Preparing to Make a Classic Shade

Read the entire section Measure and Sketch Your

Pattern. When you have completed that you will have:

Decided how to mount your shade.

Measured your window and determined your Finished Shade
Width, Finished Shade Length and Ideal Stackage.
Used the Hardware (Folding) Calculator to determine the fold
depth and number of lift lines for each shade.
Sketched a Pattern for each window blind.
Purchased fabric, lining and hardware for your shade.
Gathered your measuring and manufacturing tools.

Once you have read and followed the directions for

measuring and sketching a pattern for your shade, you are
ready to make your Classic Roman shade.

Continue the instructions for Make a Classic Roman Shade by scrolling up and clicking on Sew Hem
and Side Seams in the left-hand navigation column.

Sew Hem and Side Seams

A Roman shade is very simple to sew.
You are making a flat panel of fabric
that is backed with a drapery lining.
Cut the Front Fabric:
Place the length of the shade on the
straight-of-grain of the fabric if
possible.
Cut Width = Finished Shade Width + 2"
Cut Length = Finished Shade Length +
8" (Classic Roman shade)
Cut length = Finshed SHADE Length +
10" (Top-Down/Bottom-Up and TopDown Only Shade)
Cut the Lining:
If you are using a foam-backed lining
such as Thermalsuede or Blackout, you
don't need to place the length of the
shade on the straight-of-grain. I use
whichever direction will result in the
least amount of purchased lining.
Cut Width = Finished Shade Width + 1"
Cut Length = same length as Front

Fabric
Note that the cut width of the lining is
1" less than the cut width of the front
fabric.
After cutting your front fabric and
lining, you will hem each separately
and then join them together by sewing
the side seams. You will end up with a
tube of fabric that has hems at the
bottom and raw edges at the top.
A note on using heavy decorator fabrics and/or Blackout lining: you need to ADD 1/4" to the cut width
of BOTH the front fabric and lining in order for your sewn shade to end up the correct Finished Width.
This is because it is nearly impossible to press the side seam completely flat with thick fabrics. This is
especially true when you are making an Inside Mount shade. You already have extra fabric at the top of
the shade, so you don't need to make an adjustment in the cut length.
How to Join Multiple Fabric Widths for Wide Shades for both the Fabric Front and the Lining:
If the required Cut Width of your fabric and/or lining is wider than the width of your fabric, you will have
to join two or more fabric widths. Standard practice is to place one full width in the center of the shade
and two smaller widths on each side. This is shown in the drawing above. If you will have a lift line
running down the center of the shade, it is alright to have a center seam instead. I use a 1/4" seam and
press to one side. Don't press the seam open since you might see light through it. I use the same rules
when joining widths for the lining. However, if I can "bury" a seam in the hem, I do that. I still use a 1/4"
seam and press to one side.
How to Hem both the Fabric Front and the
Lining:
Mark and sew a double 3 hem. (Fold up the
bottom of the fabric 3, wrong sides together.
Make a second 3 fold. Top-stitch or sew the
hem by hand.) Do this for both the front fabric
and the lining. You are hemming the front
fabric separately and you are hemming the
lining separately. You do this because the
bottom of your completed shade will be open.
You may have been taught to sew the sides of
the shade together first and then make the
bottom hem. DONT DO THAT. You first hem
each panel separately and then you join the
panels at the sides.
A note about Thermalsuede or Blackout lining: The foam side of the lining is the WRONG side. The front
side of the lining is the woven fabric. It is very difficult to tell the correct side. The wrong side is slick,
the right side is a little rough.

How to Sew Side Seams:

Check that the lining is 1 narrower than the front fabric. Lay the front fabric right-side-up on a work
surface, with the bottom (hem) to your left. Lay the lining with the right-side-down on top of the front
fabric. If you are using Thermalsuede or Blackout lining, the slick foam side is up. The right-sides of
your panels are together. This means that the lining is one-inch short of the other side of your front
fabric. Dont center the lining on the front fabric. The bottom hems will both be to your left. The bottom
of the lining should be placed 1/2 above the bottom of the front fabric. This also means that the top of
the lining is 1/2" above the top of the front fabric. Dont worry about that. You will be trimming more
than an inch off the top of the shade in a later step. Pin every 2 to 3 close to the edge. You can leave
these pins in while you stitch. Also pin the front fabric and the lining together every 6 to 8 several
inches towards the center of the shade to stabilize and prevent pulling during stitching. This is shown in
the drawing below.

Using a 3/4" seam, sew the first side of the

seam beginning at the hem edge (back-stitch at
the beginning of the seam) and ending at the
top edge. When you are using Thermalsuede,
you are always sewing with the plastic side up.
The plastic side is the WRONG side of the
lining. You may need to use a Teflon or
walking presser foot on your sewing machine.
Or you can use a piece of thin paper under the
foot (such as Adding Machine Paper, which is
available in Office Supply stores or in our
Online Store), and sew through it to prevent
sticking. After pinning your seam, position
your shade to sew the seam. Before lowering
the presser foot, slip the Adding Machine Paper
on the top of the fabrics, lower the presser foot
and sew the seam. Remove the paper when you
are finished stitching by carefully tearing it
along the seam line.
Press the seam towards the lining. Now you
need to sew the other side seam. With right
sides together and with the lining still on top,
pin the second side seam. The hems are now on
your right-hand side. Notice that your front
fabric is still wider than the lining so your
shade will not lay flat. Pull the lining over so
that the sides are flush. Once again, make sure
the bottom of the lining is 1/2" above the
bottom of the front fabric. This time your will
be sewing from the top of the shade to the hem.
Backstitch at the hem. Be sure to start at the
top of the shade when you sew the second side
seam. The different types of fabric move
differently relative to your sewing machine
bottom plate and presser foot. You want the
same sequence of fabrics. You sewed your first
side seam with the front fabric on the bottom
and the lining on the top. You want to sew your
second side seam with the front fabric still on
the bottom. Trust me, your shade will twist
slightly if you reverse the order of the fabrics
in your machine.

You can see an example of this twisting, or

what I call warbling, near the bottom of the
OceanView French Door shades in the Gallery
Section.
Using an ironing board, press the second seam
towards the lining. You now have a tube, so it
is much easier to press the seam by slipping the
fabric tube over your ironing board rather than
laying it on a pressing table.
Turn the shade right side out. You have a tube,
open at the top and bottom. Place it upside
down (lining facing up) on a large work
surface. Smooth into a rectangle. You should
have a 1/4 overlap of the front fabric around
to the back on each side. Pull the shade firmly
from both sides to achieve this.

Make sure that the bottom of the lining is 1/2"

above the front across the entire bottom of the
shade. Press thoroughly. Pin in several places
before turning over. Press again, being careful
not to iron directly on the pins. Carefully
smooth the shade and measure the width in at
least three places. Verify that the measurements
are within of your desired Finished Shade
Width. If not, decide if you can live with the
new width or whether you need to re-sew
one or both side seams.
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and
clicking on the next topic in the left-hand
navigation column.

Close Your Classic Shade Top

Your shade is now right side out, with
the bottom of both the front fabric and
the lining hemmed and the sides sewn
together. With the fabric front side up,
smooth into place. Peek under the hem
and make sure that the lining and front
fabric are 1/2" apart along the entire
width of the shade. It is important that
the center not sag and that the lining not
fall below the front fabric. Carefully
smooth the shade up towards the top
edge. Pin the front fabric and lining
together about 4" below the top edges at
frequent intervals. Mark the Finished
Shade Length using pins. Turn the top
of the shade under along the line of pins
and press. Measure the Finished Shade
Length once again (measure twice, sew
once). Trim the shade (both the front
fabric and the lining) 3/4" PAST the
pins.
Now you will: Close the top of your
Classic Roman shade using sew-on loop
fastener.
You are going to sew a piece of Loop Fastener to the top of the shade on the back side. Loop Fastener is
the "soft" looped part of Hook and Loop Fastener (Velcro). The Loop Fastener will be mated to the Hook

Fastener, which will be stapled to your mounting board. Pin the Loop Fastener in place on the back side
of the shade at the top. Place it so that it is just below the top edge and side of the shade and covers the
raw edges of the turned over top.
Using bobbin thread that matches the front
fabric, sew the top edge of the Loop Fastener
to the shade, backstitching at each end. Go
slowly, holding the fabrics both behind and in
front of the machine needle and tugging gently
to avoid slippage. Remove all of the pins and
measure the Finished Shade Width at the top
where you stitched on the Loop Fastener. If it
is still correct, proceed.
Sew the bottom edge of the Loop Fastener to
the shade, backstitching at each end. You can
see the second row of stitching at the bottom
edge (left edge) of the Velcro in the
photograph. Ignore the thread exiting from the
presser foot. I forgot to photograph this step
and stuck the shade back in the machine.
Measure the length of your shade in at least
three places (both sides and in the center).
Verify that this is the same as your Finished
Shade Length. Your machine sewing is almost
complete. You only have to conceal the raw
side edges at the bottom of the shade by
folding up the fabric and tacking. You will be
leaving the bottom of your shade open (it now
looks like a pillowcase), so you need to hide
the 1/2" of raw edges at the bottom of the
shade at the side seams. While the colored
thread is still in your sewing machine, fold the
bottom of the side seams up on a diagonal and
tack.
Using a pencil, mark the center of your shade on the back on the Loop Fastener (Velcro). Make all of your
final measurements for your hardware now so that you can cut the mounting board, battens and weight
rod. Sewing is an imprecise art and your actual Finished Shade Width and Finished Shade Length may be
slightly different from your Pattern. If you had items pre-cut when you ordered, don't worry about slight
variances.
Mounting Board: Cut 1/4" shorter than the width at the TOP of your shade using a hand saw.
Battens: Cut 1/2" shorter than the width at the MIDDLE of your shade using kitchen shears (NOT your
fabric scissors), wire cutters or wire strippers.
Weight Rod: Cut the weight rod 1.25" shorter than the width at the BOTTOM of your shade using a hack
saw. (You will be inserting your rod into the hem of the lining, which is narrower than the shade front.)
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on "Install your Internal Battens" in the left-hand
navigation

Attach Internal Battens

Using Battens along your fold lines
makes raising your Roman shade a
pleasure, rather than an annoyance.
These Roman shade ribs assure there
will be no more bunching up or
dressing the shade by hand. Your
shade will fold perfectly every time.
I highly recommend you watch two
videos that explain the benefit of
internal battens. The first is Part 1 of the
How to Make a Classic Roman Shade
series. The second is a very short video
showing how to add internal battens to
an existing shade.
On this page you will learn how to
Attach internal battens in your shade
using glue. The battens are not
noticeable and assure that your shade
folds perfectly.
You will need one wooden or plastic batten for each fold line. This means that you will always have an
even number of battens. A batten with a diameter of 3/16 works best. Using wire cutters, wire strippers
(my preference) or kitchen shears cut the batten to 1/2 less than the Finished Shade Width. For shades
wider than 60, splice the plastic battens using metal splints. First tape the seam with a small piece of
cellophane tape and then trim to the correct length.
You can skip this page if you are willing to "train" your shade to fold and to "dress" the folds
occasionally. Just click on the next topic in the left-hand navigation column. If you want a professionallooking shade, I urge you to use internal battens.
This page describes my preferred method of attaching the battens. I glue them to the wrong side of the
FRONT fabric. I have used this method for over 15 years on hundreds of shades. I have never had a
batten fall off. The first time you use this technique, it may seem scary. I urge to try it. It is so much faster
and more accurate than sewing pockets or even ironing or sewing on tube tape. Alternate Methods to
Gluing in Your Battens: Over the years, customers have sent in tips on other ways to use battens. You can
read about those methods in the FAQs Section.
If I am using a fabric that is NOT 100% cotton, I test the glue first. Take a 6 by 6 piece of your front
fabric. If you already have your battens, use a 5 piece. If you dont have your battens, you can use a
piece of wood: a chopstick or even a twig works fine. You are testing the glues impact on the fabric, not
the object you are gluing to the fabric. Place a two or three small dabs of glue in a straight line across the
fabric and lay the batten/wood down on the glue dots. Place a book on top and leave overnight. Please
note that you should probably also place the fabric on a piece of wax paper. If your fabric is sheer, the
glue might leak through and glue your fabric to your table. That is another reason you are testing.
Normally, the glue does not leak through. After the glue has thoroughly dried, check the front of the
fabric. You should not be able to see any trace of the glue. You may see a small stiffening in the area of
the glue. That is fine. If the pucker is noticeable, you can paint the glue directly onto the batten. Squirt
some glue onto a piece of wax paper then use a small watercolor brush to paint a 1 section of the batten.
Space your brushings about 6 apart. This works well on silk and polyester fabrics.
If the fabric looks wet, you should try different glue. We have two varieties and one of them should work

with your fabric. You can read the details on both glues in our Shop for Hardware section.
If you prefer, we will do that for you. Send a 6" by 6" piece of your front fabric to: Terrell Designs,
Attention Glue Testing, 85 Crestone Way, Castle Rock, CO 80108, USA. We'll test both the Jewel-It and
Fabric Fusion glues using battens, then send your fabric back to you with the battens attached and a
recommendation on which glue to use on your shade. We may also recommend that you use another
method of attaching your battens. I do have a request. If you know the fabric content (for example, 100%
cotton, silk, 50% cotton/50% polyester) include that information so that I can begin a database of what
works for each fabric. I make a lot of shades, but I tend to use 100% cotton on most of them.
How to Glue Battens
Turn your shade inside out and lay it on your work surface with the wrong side of the fabric facing up.
Smooth the edges so that the sides lie as flat as possible and the side seams are tucked evenly under on
each side. Because the front fabric is wider than the lining, this will take a little time. If your fabric is
really stiff, you may have to hold the sides down in several places with a book or other object. After you
have a few battens glued in place, you can remove these.
If the shade is wide, I place a straight board along the bottom edge of the shade to make sure that the
center is not sagging. Referring to your Pattern for locations (this information is also given in the
Hardware Calculator results), attach the batten in place using glue designed for attaching sequins to
fabric, such as GemTac, Jewel-It or Fabric Fusion. These glues are available in most hobby and fabric
stores and also in our Online Store.

If you are gluing battens to the inside of a one-fabric shade, place a steel tape measure on each side of the
shade. Lay a straight board across the shade, so that it intersects each tape at the same point. For example,
if your first batten is 9.5 from the bottom of the shade, one edge of the board should intersect the tape
measures on each side of the shade just above 9.5. The right-hand photograph above shows me placing
the dots of glue just below the board, which I am using for a guide. I will then move the board up to the
next batten location and place dots of glue there.
If you are making a pieced Roman shade, gluing in the battens is a lot easier. You can use your block
pattern and place the glue dots on the seams. This way you don't have to worry about the glue possibly
showing on the right side of the shade. The glue is on the seam, not on the front fabric.
Use a very small dot of glue, the size of a dried pea or a lentil. Glue every 6 to 8, starting about 3 in
from each side. I make several rows of glue dots and then carefully center a batten on each row,
pressing it into the glue. Use a Q-tip to remove any excess glue. Be sure that you leave the outside edges
of the battens free for at least 3 so that they can bend when you turn the shade right side out. Use a
weight, such as a magazine or book, to keep the battens in contact with the fabric and glue. Let the battens
dry thoroughly for a minimum of four hours, preferably overnight.

TIP: Try to avoid putting glue dots where you will be sewing on your lift rings. It is possible, but
difficult, to sew through the glue. For example, if my shade has 3 lift lines, I don't glue near the center of
the shade.

This photograph was sent to me by a

customer who made a very large
shade. The shade is inside out on the
floor. All of the battens are glued in
and weighted by magazines. You can
see the board at the right side of the
photograph that he used to make sure
the bottom of the shade was straight.
Im often asked how large you can
make a Roman shade. My answer is
always as large as you have space to
glue in your battens. You can see the
finished shade in our Galleries
Section.
How to Turn your Shade Right-Side Out
Make sure that the glue is thoroughly dry (it should be clear and firm to the touch). Carefully turn the
shade right side out:
1. Reach up inside the shade and grab hold of the top edge (Velcro edge).
2. Pull the top edge until it is close to the bottom opening. The battens and shade are now compressed
together.
3. Grab one side of all of the battens and place them inside the bottom of the shade.
4. Shake the shade upside down, holding onto the hem until the shade is partially right-side out.
5. Grab the other side of the battens and stuff them inside the hem.
6. Continue to shake the shade. The battens will slide right up inside the shade.
The battens must be on the front side of the side seams. Check each one through the fabric front and
adjust if necessary by slipping them to the front of the seam. If you misjudged the centering of a batten,
carefully trim off the end using wire cutters. Be very careful not to cut the fabric while you are doing this.
Smooth the shade on a work surface and pin in several locations in preparation for sewing on the lift
rings.
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on the topic just BELOW "Attach Internal Battens"
in the left-hand navigation column.

Make Classic Shade Headrail

You will need the following items for your

Roman shade Headrail:

1x2 board

The hook (stiff) part of the hook and

loop fastener (Velcro)

Muslin or remnants from your shade

fabric

Flat pulleys or screw eyes, one for

each lift line

If you wish, one cord pulley

You can read about each item in our shopping
section.
You will also need the following tools:

Hand saw

Staple gun and staples

Hammer

Awl or ice pick (or a hand or electric

drill)

Phillips head screwdriver

You can read about the tools in the Fabric,
Hardware and Tools section.

Your Classic Roman shade is attached

to your wall or window on a simple
Headrail made from a 1x2 board,
muslin, hook fastener, flat pulleys (or
screw eyes) and if you wish, a cord
lock.
Using a hand saw, cut a 1x2 board to 1/4" less than the width of the top of your shade. Cover the board
using plain muslin or left-over fabric from the shade:
Cut the muslin 4" longer than the board and 1/2" wider than the circumference of the board.
Staple the muslin to the mounting board like you would wrap a present. Use staples (out of a staple gun)
to hold the fabric in place. You want all of the raw edges turned under. Everyone wraps their board a little
differently. Don't stress over it, just pull the muslin as tight as possible and staple away.
You don't have to cover the board with fabric. It is not visible when the shade is installed. However, I
assure you that your friends will pull your shade out and look behind it to see how you did such a
beautiful job. For this reason, and because it look so much more professional, I always cover my board
with fabric.
Staple the hook fastener (stiff part of the Velcro) to the front of the mounting board. Be sure the little
smooth side is down and the hooks are up. It should be placed at the front "top" part of the board, as is
shown in the drawing above. Mark the center of the board on the hook fastener with a pencil. You will use
this mark when you attach the shade to the mounting board.
You are now going to attach your flat pulleys (or screw eyes) to the "bottom" of the board. They should
be placed near the "front" edge because that is where the shade will be hanging. The location of the
pulleys determines the location of the lift cords on your shade. You will be using the completed board to
mark the lift ring locations on your shade.
You begin by attaching the two "edge" pulleys. I place them so that they are about 1/16" away from the
end. That way the screw doesn't split the board. If you are using screw eyes, place the outside ones about
1" in from each edge. The rest of the pulleys are really not hard to figure out. I place them on the board at
approximately equal distances. I have never been able to tell if one was 1/2" closer to the edge than

another one. The exception is that I do put a center pulley in the center - I already marked the location on
the Velcro.
I have drawings for almost every configuration you can
use for your Headrail. So scroll down until you see the
one you will be using. The drawings using cord lock
pulleys are towards the end of the page. The first
drawing on the right shows a Projected board using flat
pulleys. It also shows the board for two, three, four, five
and six lift lines. The following drawings only show one
configuration. The steps are always the same, if you
want to be EXACT:

Step 1 is to attach the edge pulleys next to

the front side on the bottom of the board.

Step 2 is to measure the distance D between

the center of the two edge pulleys.

Step 3 is to divide D by (NLL 1) where

NLL is the number of lift lines. This is the
distance to the center of the next pulley.

If your shade will be an Outside Mount, make

fabric tabs to cover the hardware at the sides.

Remember, schematics for other mounting board options are below. Scroll down to find your
configuration. Then scroll back up to click on the next topic in the left-hand navigation column.

Mounting a Cord Lock Pulley. If you are

using a cord lock pulley, place it on the side
of the board where the lift cords will be
exiting. The drawing at the left shows a cord
lock pulley for a left-handed shade since you
are looking at the back of the shade. When
the shade is turned around, the lock will be on
the left-hand side. Note that the drawing
shows a tandem pulley (or you could use a
tandem screw eye) butting up to the cord
lock pulley. If you dont do this, the lift cord
will rub on the cord lock housing. You will be
replacing your outside lift lines will away
from the sides of the shade so that they line
up with the tandem pulley. The Hardware
Calculator takes this into account when
determining the number of lift lines since you

must specify whether or not you will be using

a cord lock. There is a lot of information on
cord lock pulleys in the Cord Lock Pulley
FAQs section.

Now scroll back up to click on the next topic in the left-hand navigation column.

Sew Lift Rings on Classic Shade

You are probably wondering why you

made your mounting board before
finishing your shade. Now that will
become clear. You are going to use the
board to mark the location of your lift
lines.
Lay the shade face down on your work
table (the lining is facing you). Position
the headrail so that the front of the
board (the side with the Velcro on it) is
facing down, with the pulleys or screw
eyes pointed towards the bottom of the
shade. Move the mounting board so that
it is lying along the top of the bottom
batten. Mark the location of your lift
rings using the flat pulleys or screw
eyes on your mounting board.
If you are not using battens, use a tape measure on each side of the shade and position mounting board so
that the pulleys or screw eyes line up along the lowest fold line (the Lower Drop.)
Make a small pencil mark on the lining of the shade in the center of each pulley. This mark will be right
on top of the batten. After you have marked the lowest row of lift rings, move the mounting board up,
skipping every other batten, and mark the location of the remaining rows of lift rings. Your top batten
will not have lift rings. Let me stress this point: there will be lift rings on only half of the battens (or fold
lines). These are the Up Folds. If you sew rings on every batten, your shade will automatically make
additional folds in-between the battens.
Sew the lift rings in place on the back of the
shade, using thread that matches the front
fabric in each location. Repeating the
instructions from above: the rings will be sewn
on every other batten, beginning at the lowest
batten. First tack the ring to the lining only,
then continue sewing the ring on by looping
the thread through the front fabric and back to
the lining around the internal battens. The
stitches will show on the front of the shade, but
you should be able to make the visible portion
less than 1/4".
I always try to use upholstery or carpet & button thread when sewing on the lift rings. It is thicker and
stronger than regular all-purpose thread. The only drawback is that it only comes in about 30 colors. You
can purchase this thread (in a limited number of colors) in our Online Store. If I am using this heavy
thread, I attach the ring to the shade using 3 stitches (not counting first tacking the ring to the lining). In
other words, I stitch through the front side of the shade and back to the lining 3 times. On the bottom row
of lift rings, I use 5 stitches. The lift cords will be tied to the bottom row of rings, so these need to be
attached really well. If my fabric front is an unusual (such as lavender) and I cant find a heavy-duty
thread to match, I double the number of stitches I use to 6 for the upper rows of rings and 10 for the
lowest row of rings.
It is a bit awkward to sew on the lift rings if you do it on your work table. If you like to sew on your lap,
be sure to pin the layers together on your work table before doing that. I suspend my shade from a beam
when I sew on the rings. I have a beam in my workroom to which I have stapled the hook fastener

(Velcro). I mate the loop fastener on the shade to that and stand behind the shade to sew on the rings. I use
a ladder or chair to reach the higher rings. I also always start sewing at the top row of rings. Once I have
sewn one row, I inspect the front of the shade to make sure I dont have any puckers.

You can see the hook fastener

that is stapled to the top of the
green trim

A shade is attached to the

hook fastener and suspended,
ready for sewing on the lift
rings

I use a ladder to sew on the

top rows of lift rings, then
stand for the middle rows and
sit on the ground to sew on the
lower rings.

You may notice that the marks you made for your lift rings no longer fall on top of the battens when you
hang it up. If this happens, be sure to sew your rings on top of the battens. You can usually just adjust the
location visually. Another comment on sewing rings on long shades. When I first started using the
suspended-shade technique, I would tack the ring in place, jab the needle through to the front of the
shade, climb down the ladder, walk around to the front of the shade, jab the needle back to the backside of
the shade around the batten and lift ring, walk around to the back of the shade, climb the needle and
continue on. Great exercise but it sure did take a long time to sew on those rings. I discovered that I could
fold the shade up into the crook of my left hand and use my right hand to sew on the ring from the back
side of the shade. Try it, it works great.
Continue with the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on the next topic "Insert Weight Rod" in the
left-hand Navigation Column.

Insert Weight Rod

The weight rod will be placed inside the
hem of the lining. If your shade is
unlined you can place it into the hem of
the front fabric. If you are making a
Relaxed Shade, you will first need to
make a weight rod sleeve and then
whip-stitch that to the back of the shade.
Using a hack saw, cut the weight rod
1/2" shorter than the width of the lining.
This means that your rod will be about
1.25" shorter than the width of your
shade. File off any burrs.
Slip the weight rod into the hem of the
lining of your shade.

Open up the bottom of your shade, exposing the inside of the lining. Make a slit with a seam ripper
through one layer of the hem on the inside at the very top just below the stitching. Be careful not to cut
through all layers (there are three) to the front of the lining. Slip the weight rod into the hole. It will drop
down into the bottom of the lining hem pocket.
If you are using Thermalsuede or Blackout lining, you don't need to do anything with the slit. They are
foam-backed and don't fray. If you are using another type of lining, you can use Aleene's Stop Fraying or
a similar product to seal the edges of your slit. Don't seal the slit closed. You may want to remove the rod.
You can insert the rod at any time. I put mine into the lining hem before I string the lift cords on the work
table. It is easier to pull the cord taut if the bottom of the shade is weighted. If the shade is large, I remove
the rod before I install the shade and then put it back in once it is on the window.
Why do you need a weight rod? A weight rod in the bottom of the shade does two things. First, it makes
the shade hang better. Second, it makes the shade fall down correctly. If you don't use a weight rod (or if
you use one that is too light, such as a wooden dowel rod), your shade will tend to "catch" before it is all
the way down. You (and the neighbor's kids with sticky hands) will be pulling the bottom of the shade
down the last 5-10 inches. You have gone to all the trouble to make the shade pull up nicely by using
pulleys and battens. Now, add that weight rod to make it fall nicely.
Continue with the instructions by scrolling up and clicking on the next topic in the left-hand navigation
column.

String Classic Shade

You are ready to string the lift cords
through the lift rings and lifting
hardware on the mounting board. First
you must decide which side of your
shades you want the pull cords. Most
shades operate with the cords on the
right-hand side. This is probably
because the majority of us are righthanded. Your shade may be in a location
where a left-hand pull is more
convenient. Place a safety pin into the
shade in the location you want the cords
to end, as shown in the drawing at the
left. You will be stringing your shade
upside down on your work table. It
saves on the brain damage when you
have a marker on the shade. You will
string the lift cords through the columns
of lift rings and pulleys or screw eyes
on a work table before attaching your
shade at the window.
I start stringing the shade at the mounting board on the side where the cords will be exiting. This way you
can pass the cords through the flat pulleys or screw eyes, down the column of lift rings, tie the cord on the
last lift ring and then cut the cord.
If you are using a cord lock pulley, you ignore the cord lock pulley when you string your shade. You
will be removing the shade from the mounting board before mounting it at your window so why bother.
You do want to thread the cord through the flat pulleys so that you cut each cord the correct length.

Turn your shade upside down on a table or on the floor. Attach the headrail to the shade using the Velcro.
You will be removing the shade from the board after you have strung the cords, so don't worry about
having it perfectly in place.
Starting at the side of the board where the lift cords will exit (you marked this side with a safely pin),
thread the lift cord through every pulley then down the "last" column of lift rings, passing the cord
through every ring in the column. Tie the cord securely to the bottom ring using a square knot. Leave
about a 1" tail on the cord. Don't trim that tail yet. You will now cut the cord at the side of the shade
where you started. Pull the cord down to your safety pin then cut about 5" past that. This will leave you
enough cord for braiding. If you don't know where you want the cord to end, run it down the entire side of
the shade and cut it at the bottom of the shade.
Let me be a little more detailed about going through the flat pulleys or screw eyes. We will assume you
are making a right-hand pull shade, which is shown on the right-hand side of the drawing above. You start
on the left-hand side of the mounting board and thread left-to-right through all of the flat pulleys exiting
on the right-hand side of the mounting board. Then you go down the column of lift rings. If you are using
a cord lock pulley, it would be on the left-hand side of the mounting board (the starting point). I simply
pass the lift cord through the top of the locking pulley housing into the tandem pulley and procede
threading through the rest of the pulleys. You don't need to bother with the locking mechanism at this
point since you will be removing the board from the shade before mounting is at your window.
Now for the second column of lift rings. Each column only has one lift cord passing through the rings.
Begin as before at the side of the mounting board with the safety pin and thread the cord through all of the
flat pulleys or screw eyes EXCEPT the last pulley. Go through the second to last pulley then down the
second column of lift rings. Tie and cut the cord. Repeat this procedure with all of the internal column of
lift rings.
The final lift cord seems different, although the procedure is exactly the same. Thread the lift cord
through the outside pulley. Now go directly down the remaining column of lift rings. Tie and cut.
While the shade is still upside down, pull evenly on all lift lines. Pull firmly on each knot at the bottom of
the shade to make sure they are tied. Make sure the shade remains flat and then you have taut lines with
equal tension. Tie a loose knot just outside the shade where the cords exit the board. This is only a
temporary knot. Hold the shade up and pull on the cord. The shade should fold up evenly. If not, check
that the cords are passing through every lift ring and you didn't skip one.
Place the shade upside down on your table, pull each knot firmly at the bottom of each lift line, trim the
tail to about 1/2" and place a small dab of glue on both the knot and the very end of the cord. Be sure to
use a glue meant for fabrics, not a simple white craft glue such as Elmer's. Let the glue dry until it is clear.
Remove the shade from the board. First carefully remove the cords from the flat pulleys or screw eyes,
making sure they remain threaded through the lift rings. Loosely knot all of the cords together at the top
of the shade so that they will stay threaded through the rings when you mount it at the window.
If you used non-decorator fabric, spray your shade with a fabric protectant, such as ScotchGard and let it
dry thoroughly. (Almost all decorator fabric is already treated, but do check the bolt to be sure.)
Continue the Instructions by scrolling up and clicking on the next topic in the left-hand navigation
column.

Mount Classic Shade at Window

One of the beauties of using Hook &

Loop Fastener (Velcro) to attach the
shade to the mounting board (rather
than stapling the fabric to the board) is
that you can screw the board to the wall
or window trim before you attach the
shade.
Attach the mounting board at the
window using screws that go directly
through the mounting board into the
wall or window trim. If you desire, you
can use angle irons. Use a level to make
sure that the mounting board is installed
on the horizontal.
The drawings at the left show the use of
either screw eyes or flat pulleys. You
can use either a flat pulley or a screw
eye for any of the installations. Once the
mounting board is attached to the
window, you use the Velcro to hold the
shade while you thread the cord through
the flat pulleys.
Loosely attach the side of the shade where the cords will be exiting to the mounting board using the
Velcro. Reach behind the shade and untie the lift cords. Reach for the cord on the loose edge of the shade
(the one furthest from the side where the cords will be exiting). Thread it back though all of the exposed
flat pulleys or screw eyes. You can only go about half-way, since the pulleys on one side of the shade are
covered up. Repeat with all of the cords below all of the exposed pulleys. Pull all of the cords out to the
front of the shade, then remove and reattach the shade to the other side of the mounting board. Now you
can thread the cords through the rest of the pulleys or screw eyes. Then do the same with the remaining
lift cords. Loosely knot all of the cords just outside the shade. If you are using a cord lock pulley, see the
separate directions for threading the cords down through the locking mechnism.
Now you need to firmly attach the shade to the mounting board. It is easiest to start at the center. Match
the center mark on both pieces of Velcro then gently stretch the shade as you move towards the edges of
the board. Make sure that the mounting board is fully covered and that the top and bottom of the shade are
even. Untie the knot at the top of the cords, gently pull all cords taunt. Now re-tie the knot about 1 past
the last flat pulley (or 1 below where the cords exit the cord lock pulley). Lift and lower the shade to
make sure it is raising evenly.

Finish off the pull cord by braiding.

When there is still 3 to 4 of cord
left, insert the cords into a cord drop.
Move the cord drop up to the desired
location and tie a knot just below it.
Pull the cord drop over the knot to
check the location, then raise it
temporarily and trim the excess cord.
Pull the cord drop firmly over the
knot. I have found that you do not
need to put glue on this knot. It
doesnt come undone. For more
information on how to thread a cord

drop, see the Cord Drop FAQs

Section.
The last step is to attach a cord cleat. You wrap the cords around the cleat in a figure-8 to hold the cord in
place. If you are using a cord lock, you don't need a cord cleat.
Congratulations, you have completed your Classic Shade. You can enjoy your professionally-made
window treatment and start planning your next project.

Make Valance Mounting Board

You have two options for mounting your
Valance: inside or outside. On a bare
window, you can use either an inside or
outside mount. However, if there is an
existing window treatment, you will
usually use an outside, projected mount.
If you need a board that projects further
than a 1x2, you can use a standard 1x3,
which usually measures 3/4" by 2-3/4".
Another standard board size that you can
use is a 1x6, which is usually 3/4" by 53/4". If you want another projection
depth, a full-service lumber store will
"rip" a 1x6 down to a smaller size for a
nominal fee.
If you are making a Top-Down/BottomUp or a Top-Down Only shade, you will
use a projected mount. Your Valance will
be attached directly to the Headrail,
which you should have already made.
You can go to the next instruction topic.
The photograph above shows an Outside Mount Valance. It is
mounted on a French door over a mini-blind. The photograph on
the left is an Inside Mount Valance, also mounted over a miniblind. Both Valances are in the studio of an interior designer who
had a small budget to dress up her space. Rather than purchase
new Roman shades, she went with the Valances, which really help
add color.

Decide how you will mount your Valance and then measure your window. Measure at the top of the
window and any existing treatments in three dimension width, length and depth). Decide on the Finished
Width and the Finished Length of the FRONT of your Valance. Normally the length of a Valance will be
between 10" and 24". The Valance may also be very short, say only 4" to 6" long, if you are simply
covering up Top-Down shade hardware. If you are making an Outside-Mount Top-Down shade, you
should make your Valance FRONT at least 1" wider than your shade so that it will pull up nicely into the
Valance.
Make Valance Mounting Board. Note that this is the same as your Headrail if you are making a TopDown shade. It is much better to make your mounting board BEFORE you make you Valance. That way
you can identify any installation problems before you cut fabric and sew.
Cut the board to the correct size using a hand
saw. Cover the board using plain muslin, which
should be cut 4 longer than the board and 3/4
wider than the circumference. Staple the hook
fastener (Velcro) to the edge(s) of the board
according to the drawings below. You will
attach the Valance using this Velcro after you
have mounted the board at your window.

An Outside Mount Valance can be placed so that the board is projected (top drawing) or flat (bottom
drawing). Of course, if you are using your Valance to cover a Top-Down shade, you can only use a
projected mount.

If you are making an Inside-Mount Valance, you only attach the Velcro to the front of the board. The
sides will be up against the inside of the window frame. You use a flat inside-mount installation ONLY if
the inside depth of your window is less than 1-3/4" (the largest dimension of a 1x2 board). I still use a 1x2
and install the board using a 3" drywall screw. I could also purchase a 1x1 board, but I like to keep life
simple and find that keeping 3" screws around is easier than storing various lengths of 1x1's. I pre-drill a
hole that is just large enough for the screw to pass through the board. Then I can simply insert the screws,
tap on them with a hammer and screw them into the window trim.

Hem & Sew Valance Side Seams

Now that you have made your mounting

board, it is time to measure and cut
fabrics and sew.

Refer to the drawing below to determine the Finished Size and Cut Size of your Valance. Note that you
"design" your Valance beginning at the top of the drawing. That is, you start with Size D, which is the
finished Valance size, then use those dimensions to determine the size to cut your front fabric and lining.
When you make the Valance, you start at the bottom of the drawing (Size A) and progress through the
steps to end up with Size D for your finished Valance.

Notice that all of your measurements begin with W (the width of the front of the mounting board) and R
(the return of an outside mount board). I use a cloth tape measure and measure "around" the three sides of
the board. It is important to have the Velcro already attached to the board at this point. The thickness of
the Velcro will add at least 1/8" to your measurements.
If you are piecing or banding your Valance make it oversized then trim to Size A. If you are making your
Valance from one fabric, cut to Size A. Hem the bottom using a double 2" hem as shown in the drawing at
the top of the page. Measure 2" up from the bottom of the cut front, press wrong sides together. Fold
again just above the top of the double fabric so that you have three layers of fabric. Stitch through all
layers near the top of the hem using matching thread. Press thoroughly.
If your Valance is mounted alone (not over an existing treatment) or being used on a Top-Down shade, the
back of the Valance needs to be protected from sunlight. Use a drapery lining, such as Thermalsuede that
is designed to block ultraviolet light.
Cut lining width: Size A Width - 1"
Cut Lining Length: Size A Length
Hem the bottom of the lining the same way you did the Fabric Front.
A note about Thermalsuede or Blackout lining: The foam side of the lining is the WRONG side. The
front side of the lining is the woven fabric. It is very difficult to tell the correct side. The wrong side is
slick, the right side is a little rough.

You have hemmed (separately) both the front fabric and lining. You will now join them together by
sewing the side seams. You will end up with a short OPEN tube of fabric that has hems at the bottom and
raw edges at the top. It will look like a doughnut. The drawings and photographs below were copied from
the Roman shade directions. Your Valance will be very short, so visually shrink the drawings in the
vertical direction.

How to Sew Side Seams:

Check that the lining is 1 narrower than the front fabric. Lay the front fabric right-side-up on a work
surface, with the bottom (hem) to your left. Lay the lining with the right-side-down on top of the front
fabric. If you are using Thermalsuede or Blackout lining, the slick foam side is up. The right-sides of
your panels are together. This means that the lining is one-inch short of the other side of your front
fabric. Dont center the lining on the front fabric. The bottom hems will both be to your left. The bottom
of the lining should be placed 1/2 above the bottom of the front fabric. This also means that the top of
the lining 1/2" above the top of the front fabric. Dont worry about that. You will be trimming more than
an inch off the top of the Valance in a later step. Pin every 2 to 3 close to the edge. You can leave these
pins in while you stitch. Also pin the front fabric and the lining together every 6 to 8 several inches
towards the center of the shade to stabilize and prevent pulling during stitching. This is shown in the
drawing above.

Using a 3/4" seam, sew the first side of the

seam beginning at the hem edge (back-stitch at
the beginning of the seam) and ending at the
top edge. When you are using Thermalsuede,
you are always sewing with the plastic side up.
The plastic side is the WRONG side of the
lining. You may need to use a Teflon or
walking presser foot on your sewing machine.
Or you can use a piece of thin paper under the
foot (such as Adding Machine Paper, which is
available in Office Supply stores or in our
Online Store), and sew through it to prevent
sticking. After pining your seam, position your
shade to sew the seam. Before lowering the
presser foot, slip the Adding Machine Paper on
the top of the fabrics, lower the presser foot
and sew the seam. Remove the paper when you
are finished stitching by carefully tearing it
along the seam line.
Press the seam towards the lining. Now you
need to sew the other side seam. With right
sides together and with the lining still on top,
pin the second side seam. The hems are now on
your right-hand side. Notice that your front
fabric is still wider than the lining so your
Valance will not lay flat. Pull the lining over so
that the sides are flush. Once again, make sure
the bottom of the lining is 1/2" above the
bottom of the front fabric. This time your will
be sewing from the top of the Valance to the
hem. Backstitch at the hem. Be sure to start at
the top of the Valance when you sew the

second side seam. The different types of fabric

move differently relative to your sewing
machine bottom plate and presser foot. You
want the same sequence of fabrics. You sewed
your first side seam with the front fabric on the
bottom and the lining on the top. You want to
sew your second side seam with the front
fabric still on the bottom. Trust me, your shade
will twist slightly if you reverse the order of
the fabrics in your machine.
Using an ironing board, press the second seam
towards the lining. You now have a tube, so it
is much easier to press the seam by slipping the
fabric tube over your ironing board rather than
laying is on a pressing table.
Turn the Valance right side out. You have a
tube, open at the top and bottom. Place it
upside down (lining facing up) on a large work
surface. Smooth into a rectangle. You should
have a 1/4 overlap of the front fabric around
to the back on each side. Pull the shade firmly
from both sides to achieve this.

Make sure that the bottom of the lining is 1/2"

above the front across the entire bottom of the
Valance. Press thoroughly. Pin in several places
before turning over. Press again, being careful
not to iron directly on the pins. Carefully
smooth the Valance and measure the width in
at least three places. Verify that the
measurements are within of your desired
Finished Valance Size C Width. If not, decide
if you can live with the new width or
whether you need to re-sew one or both side
seams.
Continue the instructions by scrolling up and
clicking on the next topic in the left-hand
navigation column.

Close Top of Valance

Place the Valance fabric side up on a
work surface. Smooth into place.
Measure from the bottom edge to the
desired length. Press under along the
line of pins, open up fold and trim
excess top fabric and lining so that you
have 3/4" extending past the top of the
fold.
From this point on, you will be using different directions depending upon whether you are making an
Inside-Mount Valance or an Outside-Mount Valance.
Completing an Inside-Mount
Valance. Refold the top layers along
the straight pins you inserted to mark
the finished top of your Valance. Pin
loop fastener (the soft side of your
Velcro) on the back side at the top of
the Valance. Be sure that the lower
edge of the Velcro covers the raw
edges of the fabric and lining. Stitch
through all layers (front fabric/lining,
back fabric/lining and Velcro) using
thread that matches the front fabric.
Stitch along both the top and bottom
edges of the Velcro, being sure to

backstitch at each end.

Since you will be looking "up" at a Valance, I like to tack the hem to the front every 8" to 12". Before
mounting your Valance to the board, mark the center on the loop fastener using a pencil. Do the same on
the hook fastener on the board. Mount the board inside your window. Place the Valance on the board,
beginning at the center, then working out to each side.

Completing an Outside-Mount
Valance. After years of making soft
corner Valances, I came up with a way
to stiffen the corners so that the Valance
hangs crisply at the corners. The
completed treatment almost looks like a
padded cornice board. You will be
adding corner tucks.
Refold the top layers along the straight
pins you inserted to mark the finished
top of your Valance. Mark the location
of the corner tucks as shown in the
drawing. Note that you will be leaving a
gap of about 1" at the fold. That is not a
typo. The entire gap is 1". The center of
the tuck is 1/2" from the edge of the
Velcro.

Pin the loop fastener (soft part of the Velcro)

on the back side at the top of the Valance. Be
sure that the lower edge of the Velcro covers
the raw edges of the fabric and lining. Stitch
through all layers (front fabric/lining, back
fabric/lining and Velcro) using thread that
matches the front fabric. Stitch along both the
top and bottom edges of the Velcro, being sure
to backstitch at each end. Note that you will
NOT be sewing Velcro in the location of the
corner tucks.

Fold the wrong sides together on the tuck line.

Using thread that matches your front fabric,
stitch 1/4 from the edge, backstitching at each
end.

For those who are good at math, I have to

explain about the extra 1/4" when you mark
your tuck line. In addition to the Return, you
added on each side. You sewed a tuck.
Since that was doubled, you took care of 1/2,
but where did that extra 1/4" go? The
package is so thick when you sew the tuck,
that you lose just about 1/4" even if you sew
exactly a quarter-inch seam. Believe me, it is
better for the finished Valance to be slightly
larger than necessary, than for it to be smaller.
Since you will be looking "up" at a Valance, I like to tack the hem to the front every 8" to 12". Before
mounting your Valance to the board, mark the center on the loop fastener using a pencil. Do the same on
the hook fastener on the board. Mount the board on your wall or window. Place the Valance on the board,
beginning at the center, then working out to each side and around the edge to the sides.