GATEWAY CITY: DUBROVNIK

Lonely Planet Publications

66

Gateway City: Dubrovnik

What can one say about Dubrovnik that hasnt been said already? Lord Byrons jewel of the
Adriatic has been quoted endlessly, George Bernard Shaws paradise on Earth is a wellworn saying by now. Dubrovnik leaves most people speechless, its beauty gobsmacking, its
setting a knockout. Not that its a secret quite the contrary; too many people know of its
beauty and thousands of tourists walk squashed along the main street throughout the year,
gazing, gasping, snapping. Its one of the worlds hottest tourist destinations.
Although the shelling of Dubrovnik in 1991 horrified the world, the city has bounced back
with characteristic vigour to again enchant its visitors. The hedonistic can pamper themselves
in one of the citys fine hotels or enjoy a refreshing plunge into the sea. History buffs can
trace the rise and fall of Dubrovniks commercial empire in museums replete with art and
artefacts. A local symphony orchestra and a busy concert season delight music-lovers.
Dubrovnik is an easy place to visit from Montenegro, and the perfect introduction to
Croatia, plus its a great launching place for expeditions to the surrounding region which is
equally, though less famously, gorgeous.

Orientation
ilipi international airport is 24km southeast
of Dubrovnik. The Jadrolinija ferry terminal
and the bus station are next to each other
at Gru, several kilometres northwest of
the Old Town, which is closed to cars. The
main street in the Old Town is Placa (better
known as Stradun).

Information
You can change money at any travel agency
or post office. There are numerous ATMs
in town and near the bus station and the
ferry terminal.
Algoritam (Map p68; %322 044; www.algoritam.hr;
Placa 8; h9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) Has a good
selection of English-language books, including guidebooks.
Hospital (Map p67; %431 777; Dr Roka Mietia bb)
Emergency services are available 24 hours.
Lapad post office (Map p67; etalite Kralja Zvonimira
21; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Main post office (Map p68; cnr iroka & Od Pua;
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Netcaf (Map p68; %321 125; www.netcafe.hr; Prijeko 21;
per hr 30KN; h9am-11pm) A wonderfully friendly cafe with
a fast connection and good services.
Tourist office (www.tzdubrovnik.hr; h8am-8pm
daily Jun-Sep, 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, closed

FAST FACTS

Croatia Country Code %385

Dubrovnik Area Code %020
Population 45,800
Sun Oct-May) Bus Station (Map p67; %417 581; Obala
Pape Ivana Pavla II 44a); Gru Harbour (Map p67; %417
983; Obala Stjepana Radia 27); Lapad (Map p67; %437
460; etalite Kralja Zvonimira 25); Old Town (Map p68;
%323 587; iroka 1); Pile Gate (Map p68; %427 591;
Dubrovakih Branitelja 7) Maps, information and the
indispensable Dubrovnik Riviera guide.

Sights
OLD TOWN

You will probably begin your visit of

Dubrovniks World Heritage-listed Old Town
at the city bus stop outside Pile Gate (Map p68).
As you enter the city, Dubrovniks wonderful
pedestrian promenade, Placa, extends before
you all the way to the clock tower (Map p68) at
the other end of town.
Just inside Pile Gate is the huge 1438
Onofrio Fountain (Map p68), and the Franciscan
Monastery (Franjevaki Samostan; Map p68; %321 410;
Placa 2; h9am-5pm) with a splendid cloister and

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TRANSPORT
Bus Station.................................22 C1
Jadrolinija Ferry Terminal...........23 C2

ENTERTAINMENT
Lazareti......................................20 F4
Open-Air Cinema......................21 C2

DRINKING
EastWest Club............................19 F4

EATING
Blidinje.......................................16 C2
Levanat......................................17 A1
Sedna.........................................18 B2

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Villa Wolff..................................14 B2
YHA Hostel................................ 15 D3

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SLEEPING
Apartments Silva Kusjanovi....... 6
Begovi Boarding House ............ 7
Hotel Bellevue..............................8
Hotel Excelsior..............................9
Hotel Uvala................................10
Hotel Zagreb..............................11
Solitudo......................................12
Vila Micika.................................13

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B3
B2
B2
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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Adriatic Kayak Tours....................5 F4

INFORMATION
Hospital........................................1
Lapad Post Office.........................2
Tourist Office...............................3
Tourist Office...............................4

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G AT E W AY C I T Y: D U B R O V N I K D u b r o v n i k
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GATEWAY CITY: DUBROVNIK

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EATING
Adriatic
Defne................................
28
Sea
Fresh..................................29
Kamenice...........................30
Lokanda Peskarija..............31
Nishta................................32
Smuuti Bar.........................33

43

DRINKING
Bua................................. 34 C4
Troubadur.........................35 C3
ENTERTAINMENT
Open-Air Cinema..............36 A3

the third-oldest functioning pharmacy (h9am5pm) in Europe; its been operating since 1391.
The church (h7am-7pm) has recently undergone
a long and expensive restoration to startling
effect. The monastery museum (adult/concession
20/10KN, h9am-5pm) has a collection of liturgical
objects, paintings and pharmacy equipment.
In front of the clock tower at the eastern
end of Placa (on the square called Lua) is
the 1417 Orlando Column (Map p68) a popular meeting place. On opposite sides of the
column are the 16th-century Sponza Palace
(Map p68) originally a customs house,
later a bank, and now housing the State
Archives (Dravni Arhiv u Dubrovniku; Map p68; %321 032;
admission 15KN; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)
and St Blaises Church (Map p68), a lovely

17

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SLEEPING
Apartments Amoret...........23
Fresh Sheets.......................24
Hotel Stari Grad.................25
Karmen Apartments...........26
Puci Palace..................... 27

20

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Onofrio Fountain...............13
Orlando Column................14
Pile Gate............................15
Ploe Gate.........................
16
Petra Kreimira
IV
Rector's Palace...................
17
Sponza Palace....................18
St Blaise's Church..............19
State Archives....................20
Synagogue........................21
War Photo Limited.............22

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SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Cathedral of the Assumption of
the Virgin........................6 C3
Clock Tower........................7 C3
Dominican Monastery..........8 C2
Franciscan Monastery...........9 B2
Jesuit Monastery................10 B3
Morning Market................11 C3
Museum of the Orthodox
Church.......................... 12 B3

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INFORMATION
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Algoritam............................
1
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Main Post Office..................
2
Netcaf................................3
Tourist Office......................4
Tourist Office.......................5

150 m
0.1 miles

Ob
od

DUBROVNIK OLD TOWN

Od

GATEWAY CITY: DUBROVNIK

68

26
Od
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St John
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SHOPPING
ardin................................37
Maria.................................38
Photo Gallery Carmel.........39
Sheriff & Cherry.................40

B3
C2
C2
B2

TRANSPORT
Bus Stop............................41 A2
Croatia Airlines..................42 A2
Lokrum Ferry Dock............43 D3

Italian baroque building built in 1715 to replace an earlier church destroyed in the 1667
earthquake. At the end of Pred Dvorom, the
wide street beside St Blaises, is the baroque
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin (Map
p68). Located between the two churches,
the 1441 Gothic Rectors Palace (Kneev Dvor; Map
p68; %321 437; Pred Dvorom 3; adult/student 35/15KN;
h9am-2pm Mon-Sat Oct-May, 9am-6pm daily Jun-Sep)

houses a museum with furnished rooms, baroque paintings and historical exhibits. The
elected rector was not permitted to leave the
building during his one-month term without the permission of the senate. The narrow street opposite opens onto Gundulieva
Poljana, a bustling morning market (Map p68).
Up the stairs south of the square is the 1725

G AT E W AY C I T Y: D U B R O V N I K A c t i v i t i e s

Jesuit Monastery (Jezuitski Samostan; Map p68; Poljana

Ruera Bokovia).
As you proceed up Placa, make a detour
to the Museum of the Orthodox Church (Muzej

minute walk down Vlaho Bukovac street or a

quick ride on bus 5 or 8 from the northern end
of the Old Town. Other beaches past Pile Gate
are ulii and Dane (Map p67), a pebbly and
rocky beach respectively. Another excellent
place for swimming is underneath the Bua bar
(p71), on the outside of the city walls. Diving
is off the rocks, there are steps to help you get
in and out and some cemented space between
the rocks for sunbathing. Theres not much
shade here, so bring a hat and strong sun protection. There are also hotel beaches along the
Lapad Peninsula (Map p67), which you can use
without a problem. The largest is Copacabana
Beach outside the Hotel Kompas.
An even better option is to take the ferry
that shuttles half-hourly in summer to lush
Lokrum Island (return 80KN), a national park
with a rocky nudist beach (marked FKK), a
botanical garden and the ruins of a medieval
Benedictine monastery.

Pravoslavne Crkve; Map p68; %323 283; Nikole Boidarevia;

adult/concession 10/5KN; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) for a

look at a fascinating collection of 15th- to

19th-century icons.
By now youll be ready for a leisurely walk
around the city walls (Map p68; adult/child 50/20KN;
h9am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-3.30pm Nov-Mar), which
have entrances just inside Pile Gate, across
from the Dominican monastery and near St
John Fort. Built between the 13th and 16th
centuries, these powerful walls are the finest
in the world and Dubrovniks main claim to
fame. They enclose the entire city in a protective veil over 2km long and up to 25m high,
with two round and 14 square towers, two
corner fortifications and a large fortress. The
views over the town and sea are great this
walk could be the high point of your visit.
Whichever way you go, youll notice the
14th-century Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski
Samostan; Map p68; %322 200; adult/child 20/10KN;
h9am-6pm), which is located in the north-

eastern corner of the city. Its forbidding

fortress-like exterior shelters a rich trove of
paintings from Dubrovniks finest 15th- and
16th-century artists.
Dubrovnik has many other sights, such
as the unmarked synagogue (Sinagoga; Map p68;
%321 028; udioska 5; admission 10KN; h10am-8pm
Jun-Sep, 9am-3pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) near the clock

tower, which is the second-oldest synagogue

in Europe. The uppermost streets of the Old
Town below the north and south walls are
pleasant to wander along.
One of the better photography galleries
youre likely to come across, War Photo Limited
(Map p68; %326 166; www.warphotoltd.com; Antuninska
6; admission 30KN; h9am-9pm daily May-Sep, 10am-4pm
Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun Oct & Apr) has changing exhibi-

tions that are curated by the gallery owner and

former photojournalist Wade Goddard. Its
open in summer only, and has up to three exhibitions in that period, relating to the subject
of war seen from various perspectives.
BEACHES

Banje (Map p67), the closest beach to the Old

Town, is just beyond the 17th-century Lazareti
(p71; a former quarantine station) outside
Ploe Gate (Map p68). Another nearby, good
local beach is Sveti Jakov (Map p67), a 20-

69

Activities
Adriatic Kayak Tours (Map p67; %312 770; www.kayak
croatia.com; Frankopanska 6) offers a great series of
kayak tours for experienced and beginner
kayakers. Tours cover nearby Lokrum Island
and the Elafiti Islands, but you can also go
white-water rafting on the Tara River (p143)
and kayaking in the Bay of Kotor (p73)
in Montenegro.

Sleeping
Private accommodation is generally the best
option in Dubrovnik, but beware of the
scramble of private owners at the bus station or Jadrolinija wharf. Some provide what
they say they offer, others are rip-off artists.
The owners listed below meet you at the station if you call in advance. Otherwise head
to any of the travel agencies or the tourist
office. Expect to pay about 28 to 50 for a
room in the high season.
OLD TOWN

Fresh Sheets (Map p68; %091 799 2086; beds@igot

fresh.com; Sv imuna 15; per person 25; i) A brand
new place, this is a collection of four individually decorated apartments Lavender,
Rainforest, Sunshine, Heaven each sleeping two to four people (plus a sofa), and one
double room. The location is excellent (in
the heart of Old Town), you get free internet
and wi-fi and, when the Fresh bars kitchen
is open, a free smoothie every day.

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G AT E W AY C I T Y: D U B R O V N I K S l e e p i n g

Apartments Amoret (Map p68; %091 530 4910; www

.dubrovnik-amoret.com; Dinke Ranjine 5 & Restieva 2; apt 50120; a) Six artistically appointed apartments
and rooms are tucked away within two Old
Town houses (Amoret 1 and Amoret 2) that
date back to the 16th century. Each is different
but all are lovingly decorated to create some of
the most charming accommodation anywhere
in Dubrovnik.
oKarmen Apartments (Map p68; %323
433, 098 619 282; www.karmendu.com; Bandureva 1; apt
55-145; a) Set inside an old stone house in

the middle of the Old Town, the four apartments are beautifully decorated with original
artwork and imaginative use of recycled materials. There are small, one- to two-person
apartments, as well as two for three or four
people. Book well in advance because it all
gets whipped up by June.
Hotel Stari Grad (Map p68; %322 244; www.hotel
starigrad.com; Palmotieva; low-high s 650-1180KN, d 920KN1580KN; a) Staying in the heart of the Old

Town in a lovingly restored stone building is

an unmatchable experience. The eight rooms
are elegantly and tastefully furnished to feel
simple and luxurious at the same time.
Puci Palace (Map p68; %326 222; www.thepucicpal
ace.com; Od Pua 1; low-high s 206-315, d 290-505; a)

Right in the heart of the Old Town and inside

what was once a noblemans mansion, this
five-star hotel is Dubrovniks most exclusive
and hottest property. There are only 19 rooms,
all exquisitely decorated and featuring Italian
mosaics, Egyptian cotton and baroque beds.
oHotel Bellevue (Map p67; %330 000; www
.hotel-bellevue.hr; Petra ingrije 7; d from 250; asi)

Although not strictly speaking within the borders of the Old Town, but a five-minute walk
west from Pile Gate, Hotel Bellevues location
on a cliff that overlooks the open sea and
the lovely bay underneath is pretty much
divine. The rooms are beautifully designed,
the balconies overlook the said sea and bay.
Its restaurant, Vapor, is top-notch too, with
excellent seasonal products, fish, meat and a
wide range of Croatian wines.
OUTSIDE THE OLD TOWN

Solitudo (Map p67; %448 200; www.camping-adri

atic.com; Iva Dulia 39; per person/campsite 5.40/10.20;
hmid-Maymid-Oct) This pretty and renovated

camping ground is within walking distance

of the beach.
YHA Hostel (Map p67; %423 241; dubrovnik@hfhs
.hr; Vinka Sagrestana 3; low-high per person B&B 85-120KN)

lonelyplanet.com

Basic in decor, the YHA Hostel is clean and,

as travellers report, a lot of fun. If you are allowed to choose a bed (rare), the best dorms
are rooms 31 and 32, for their secret roof
terrace with a refreshingly lovely view.
Apartments Silva Kusjanovi (Map p67; %435
071, 098 244 639; silva_dubrovnik@yahoo.com; Kardinala
Stepinca 62; per person 100KN) Sweet Silva has four

large apartments that can hold four to eight

beds. All have terraces with gorgeous views
and barbecues.
Begovi Boarding House (Map p67; %435 191;
http://begovic-boarding-house.com; Primorska 17; low-high
dm 14-19, s 25-32, d 32-40; i) A long-time fa-

vourite with our readers, this friendly place in

Lapad has three rooms with shared bathroom
and three apartments. Theres a terrace out
the back with a good view. Breakfast is an
additional 30KN.
Vila Micika (Map p67; %437 332; www.vilamicika
.hr; Mata Vodapia; low-high s 150-210KN, d 300-420KN) A
simple, well-run establishment with rooms
painted in soft and pleasant colours and
equipped with TVs and modern bathrooms.
Theres a pleasant outdoor terrace, and its
only 200m to the Lapad beaches.
oHotel Zagreb (Map p67; %430 930; www
.hotels-sumratin.com; etalite Kralja Zvonimira 27; low-high
s 400-660KN, d 700-1060KN; a) Under the same

ownership as Hotel Sumratin, Hotel Zagreb

is the more stylish sister, set inside a lovely,
salmon-coloured 19th-century building.
The rooms are large, with marine motifs and
large bathrooms.
oVilla Wolff (Map p67; %438 710; www.villa
-wolff.hr; Nika i Meda Pucia 1; low-high s 1533-1879KN, d
1606-1898KN; ai) A gorgeous boutique hotel

right on the lovely seaside promenade, Villa

Wolff has six rooms, all beautifully outfitted,
bright and airy. There is a verdant garden that
guests use for sunbathing.
Hotel Uvala (Map p67; %433 580; www.hotelimaes
tral.com; Masarykov Put 6; d 120-170; as) A newly
renovated four-star hotel thats decked out
with a lovely reception, indoor and outdoor
pools and a comprehensive spa. Its unfortunate, however, that the rooms in Uvala are a
bit of a let-down with their glum browns and
whites. The service is friendly and the place is
comfortable, very close to the beach.
Hotel Excelsior (Map p67; %353 353; www.hotel
-excelsior.hr; Frana Supila 12; s/d from 1640/1890KN; as)

This is possibly Dubrovniks biggest hotel

extravaganza after a 10 million refit, the
legendary Excelsior opened again in 2008 to

many bated breaths. The adjacent boutique

villa, Villa Odak, has gorgeously understated
rooms. There is also an indoor and outdoor
swimming pool and a palm-tree terrace.

Eating
OLD TOWN

Weed out tourist traps and choose carefully, and youll find fabulous food in the
Old Town.
Smuuti Bar (Map p68; %091 896 7509; Palmotieva 5;
smoothies 18-25KN) This place is perfect for breakfast smoothies and nice big mugs of coffee (at
a bargain 10KN).
Fresh (Map p68; %091 896 7509; www.igotfresh.com;
Vetranieva 4; wraps from 20KN) A mecca for young
travellers who gather here for the smoothies,
wraps and other healthy snacks, as well as
drinks and music in the evening.
Nishta (Map p68; %091 896 7509; Prijeko 30; mains
from 30KN) When they opened this unprecedented case of a 100% vegetarian restaurant in
Dubrovnik, the baffled locals asked the owners
what they served. Everything except meat, the
owners said, and the locals concluded: Well,
then youre serving nothing. Hence the name
Nishta (nothing in Croatian). Alas, youre in
the Balkans, what do you expect? Head here
for a refreshing gazpacho, a heart-warming
miso soup, Thai curries, veggies and noodles,
and many more veggie delights.
Kamenice (Map p68; %421 499; Gundulieva Poljana 8;
mains from 40KN) Its been here since the 1970s and
not much has changed: the socialist-style waiting uniforms, the simple interior, the massive
portions of mussels, grilled or fried squid,
griddled anchovies and kamenice (oysters).
The terrace is on one of Dubrovniks most
gorgeous squares.
oLokanda Peskarija (Map p68; %324 750;
Ribarnica bb; mains from 40KN) Located on the Old
Harbour right next to the fish market, this is
undoubtedly one of Dubrovniks best eateries.
The quality of the seafood dishes is unfaltering, the prices are good and the location is
gorgeous. The locals queue along with the
tourists for the wonderful baby squid, the
substantial risottos and the juicy mussels.
Defne (Map p68; %326 200; Od Pua 1; mains from
70KN) Puci Palaces top-floor restaurant, its
one of Old Towns classiest. Try the octopus
carpaccio starter, served with black tagliolini
and truffle a piece of heaven in your mouth
or the gorgeous lobster with white risotto dish.
The wine list is impeccable.

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LAPAD

Sedna (Map p67; %352 000; www.hotel-kompas.hr; Petra

ingrije 7; pizzas from 26KN; omelettes 30-35KN) The Hotel
Kompas bar-pizzeria is a great and unpretentious spot for breakfast, lunch or dinner. You
can sit on a terrace overlooking the beach
and Lapad Bay while the locals buzz around,
drinking their coffee and chatting on sunny
mornings and afternoons.
oLevanat (Map p67; %435 352; Nika i Meda
Pucia 15; mains 45-120KN) One of the best spots
in the whole city, Levanat overlooks the sea
from the pine-laden hill between Lapad Bay
and Babin Kuk. The food is equally gorgeous
as well as innovative, with seafood and unusual sauces, fresh ingredients and delicious
vegetarian options.
Blidinje (Map p67; %358 794; Lapadska Obala 21;
mains from 70KN) A great local thats not frequented by many tourists, Blidinje has fabulous views of Gru Harbour from its terrace.
The food is aimed primarily at carnivores,
so use the opportunity to taste lamb or veal
slow-cooked under hot coals but make
sure you ring in and order at least two hours
in advance.

Drinking
EastWest Club (Map p67; %412 220; Frana Supila bb) By
day this outfit on Banje Beach rents out beach
chairs and umbrellas and serves drinks to the
bathers. When the rays lengthen, the cocktail
bar opens.
Troubadur (Map p68; %412 154; Bunieva Poljana 2)
Come to this legendary Dubrovnik venue for
live jazz concerts in the summer.
oBua (Map p68; Ilije Sarake) The Bua is a
no-fuss place on the outside of the city walls,
facing out onto the open sea, with simple
drinks and blissful punters.

Entertainment
The summer months are chock-full of concerts and folk dancing. The tourist office has
the full schedule.
Lazareti (Map p67; %324 633; www.lazareti.du-hr.net;
Frana Supila 8) Dubrovniks best art and music
centre, Lazareti hosts cinema nights, club
nights, live music, masses of concerts and
pretty much all the best things in town. Come
here for the free art-film seasons hosted by a
group of local film-enthusiasts throughout the
year. International and local films are projected
onto the 19th-century walls of the Lazareti
complex, once a quarantine barracks.

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G AT E W AY C I T Y: D U B R O V N I K S h o p p i n g

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Open-Air Cinema (Map p67; Kumiia, Lapad) In two

locations, its open nightly in July and August
with screenings starting after sundown (9pm
or 9.30pm). The other location is at Za Rokom
in the Old Town (Map p68).

jewellery shop in which you can get lost

for hours.

Shopping
Youll find souvenir stores all over Stradun,
selling Dalmatian marine details, stripy tops,
anchors and the like.
Maria (Map p68; %321 330; www.maria-dubrovnik
.hr; Svetog Dominika bb) Take a few deep breaths
before you step into this shop, for you are
sure to swoon at the sight of soft Miu Miu
leather bags, lacquered Alexander McQueen
shoes and gorgeous Marni dresses. The
prices are international of course, and the
service is friendly too, which is always a
pleasant surprise.
Sheriff & Cherry (Map p68; %324 888; www.sherif
fandcherry.com; orieva 4; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm
Sat) One of the few trendy boutiques in town,

this Zagreb-based shop stocks all the major

fashion labels, such as Paul & Joe, Cheap
Mondays, Anya Hindmarch and Dries Van
Noten, among many, many others.
Photo Gallery Carmel (Map p68; %091 577 7157;
www.phototgallerycarmel.com; Zamanjina 10; h9am-4pm
Mon-Sat) A newly opened photography gallery

that hosts work by local and international

artists. Prints are for sale.
Djardin (Map p68; % 324 744; Miha Pracata 8;
h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) A sprawling

Getting There & Away

AIR

Daily flights to and from Zagreb are operated by Croatia Airlines (Map p68; %413 777; www
.croatiaairlines.hr; Brsalje 9; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9amnoon Sat). The fare runs from 400KN one-way,

higher in peak season; the trip takes about

an hour.
There are also nonstop flights to Rome,
London and Manchester in the period between April and October.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

ilipi international airport is 24km southeast

of Dubrovnik. The Croatia Airlines airport
buses (25KN, 45 minutes) leave from the main
bus station (Map p67; %357 088; Obala Pape Ivana Pavla II
44a) 1 hours before flight times. Buses meet
Croatia Airlines flights but not all others. A
taxi costs around 200KN.
TO/FROM MONTENEGRO

Buses head between Dubrovnik and Herceg

Novi (8, two hours) twice a day, continuing on to Kotor and Budva. In a busy summer season and at weekends buses out of
Dubrovnik can be crowded, so book a ticket
well before the scheduled departure time. A
taxi from Dubrovnik to Herceg Novi will cost
around 60.

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