The Bucharest University of Economic Studies

Faculty of Business and Tourism

Cruelty-Free Cosmetics
Stan Cristina-Aida
Group 316

Bucharest
2015

Content
Introduction.......page 3
The Issue: Animal Tests ...page 4
Cosmetics Directive.....page 5
Alternatives..page 5
The market in Romania: Main Brands...page 6
Specific Legislation( Eu-level and National-level )...page 9
Conclusion..page 14
Bibliography...page 15

Bucharest
2015

Introduction

Traditionally, animal testing has been used in order to demonstrate which

cosmetics are effective and especially safe. This may not seem to have a wicked character, but
what if I told you that thousands of mice, rabbits, guinea pigs and rats are being injected,
compelled to take food by means of a tube inserted into the throat, gassed and killed every single
year? There are no restrictions in 80% of the world. Animals are used in ruthless and needless
cosmetics tests, even though there are many other solutions to produce secure cosmetics. As a
consumer, I am aware that I am able to influence this issue by what type of product I buy and I
am truly delighted to sustain the use of the Leaping Bunny certified products ( see fig.1)
through this project.
Figure 1: the Leaping Bunny
symbol

Source: http://leapingbunny.org/images/lbLogo-facebook.jpg

Nowadays, due to the aid of the Leaping Bunny Programme, consumers can
easily recognize the cruelty-free labeling and purchase cosmetics manufactured without utilizing
animal testing. Make a humane choice, make a positive change!

Bucharest
2015

Figure 2
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/
co

The Issue: Animal Tests

mmons/e/e3/Types_of_vertebrates_v2e
n.png

Some of the well-known tests used in manufacturing

cosmetics and many ingredients are:

1. Repeated dose toxicity: This one estimates officially if long-term

usage of a certain substance is poisonous or not. Rabbits and
mice are constrained to inhale and sometimes eat a cosmetics
ow that in vitro ingredient
methods
exist. Maybe they have heard something about
every single day between one and three months.
aboratory animals,
but
they
relegate
them to the sphere of non-global stuff and fanatici
After this
cruel
process,
they are killed.
2. Reproductive toxicity: This is a test which evaluates how a certain
substance may influence the fertility, the sexual behaviour and
the birth of the individual. Throughout their pregnancy, rats and
rabbits are force-fed one of the cosmetics component. This
y
particular process caused deaths to hundreds of thousands of
animals and also to their unborn babies.
3. Toxicokinetics: Toxicokinetics is a test that determines how the
body reacts when a substance is absorbed, dispersed, metabolized
and then expelled from the blood or tissues. Again, rats, mice,
rabbits are forced to consume a specific cosmetics ingredient
and immediately after this, they are killed. Then, their organs
are examined in order to assess how the component used was
distributed.
4. Skin sensitization: This test must determine if a substance is going
to cause skin inflammation or itching sensation each time the
substance is used. Guinea pigs fur is shaved and then the
substance is rubbed onto their skin in order to observe some sort
of allergic reaction. The Guinea pigs are then killed.
5. Carcinogenicity:Necessitates a lot of time, as its purpose
is to expose a carcinogen in the body. In this sense,
mice are compelled to assimilate a cosmetics ingredient for about
two years in order to detect if the animals get sick and have cancer
As it is expected, the mice are then killed.

Bucharest
2015

The Issue: Cosmetics Directive

In Europe, the European
Union Cosmetics Directive represents the
solution against the problem and lays down
rules concerning the labelling, packing and contents of
cosmetic products. This directive puts an end to the use
of animals for testing cosmetics, the second main by
imposing bans:
-It prohibits the testing of finished cosmetic
products (applicable from September 2004)
and ingredients (applicable from March 2009) on
animals. Since March 2009, it also prohibited the
marketing of cosmetic products in the EU,
and ingredients that have been tested on
animals, irrespective of the origin of these products.

The reduction of animal

testing is a political goal
and
should not be dominated
by
scientists who often cannot
accept any uncertainty, not
realising that by that
behaviour,
they are only preventing
change.
Dr. Cornelis Johannes
(Kees)
van Leeuwen, former

The Issue: Alternatives

Until now, about 500 cosmetics companies have declared themselves as being
enemies to animal testing and, it may seem surprisingly, but they are still manufacturing
secure and marvelous beauty products. They succeed in achieving such good products
simply by combining already existing cosmetics raw components which have been
proven to be secure for people until now. These companies realized that they do not need
to use new ingredients, because these chemicals would also be tested on animals, so they
tried to reinvent the definition of cosmetics through a great mixture of chemicals that
would not harm any soul.
The latest techniques which science offers nowadays present us some
professional non-animal tests that are able to ensure the safety of cosmetics. They are
some alternative tests which are not only cheaper, but also very reliable, giving results
that are more suitable to humans. Until now, there are 40 tests that are validated for
usage. A few good examples would be: a skin test, called EpiDerm which uses human
reconstructed skin, a test for eye corrosion named Bovine Cornea Opacity and
Permeability or a test for sunlight-induced phototoxicity, called 3T3 NRU.

Bucharest
2015

The market in Romania: Main Brands

100% Pure products are truly 100% pure, without synthetic
chemicals, artificial flavours and colours, hard detergents or
other harmful toxins . The ingredients used do not require testing, as
the only animal component used is honey, without
involving any act of cruelty to animals. Definitely suitable for vegans.

Figure 3
http://www.thegreenkiss.com/v/v
spfiles/photos/100PP-NaturalPrimer-2.jpg

In addition to the fact that they are cruelty-free, Balm Balm

organic cosmetics are approved by the Soil Association. They
are entirely organic and based on a simple formula created with bees
wax and essential oils. The company won in 2007 an important
award called The Natural & Organic Products, sponsored by
the Soil Association itself, the most prestigious institution of
the United Kingdom organic certification. In the same year it also
received The Silver Best Skincare Award from the magazine
"Mommy and Baby".In 2008, it was among the finalists
of The Natural and Organic Awards in the category Children and
earned Natural

Health Beauty Awards.

BareFaced Beauty is a make-up
brand that produces the purest beauty cosmetics
which are, luckily, available anywhere in the
world. Barefaced Beauty makeup products are
natural, pure, with no parabens and bismuth
chloride, which is a mineral but one that can
cause irritations. They also do not contain talc,
fragrance
and dyes. Barefaced Beauty products are
definitely suitable for vegetarians and vegans.
This British company was awarded by the most
prestigious magazines for its mineral
makeup products,
being declared winner in Natural
Health Magazine Awards 2009 and 2010.

Figure 4 http://1.bp.blogspot.com/00asjx5SJeI/Uuiavgqr3LI/AAAAAAAAFaM/EB5U4v27MD
8/s1600/balmbalm.png

Bucharest
2015

Bellapierre Cosmetics is
one of the companies that delivers
mineral make-up, having the worlds
fastest development. David Oren, the
company founder, is an important
player in the industry of producing
cosmetics. With over 13 years of
experience in this field, David Oren
believes passionately in quality and
purity, not only in business
development. Bellapierre Cosmetics
products are unique because the
company produces and develops its
own products, which gives the power
to respond quickly to market trends.
Figure 5: Original, Stan Cristina Aida, Bellapierre
Also, the diversity of the colours
Cosmetics, 2015
and the fact that the entire line is
based on natural ingredients, favors the use of the Bellapierre products.
Derbe manufactures high quality and innovative
personal care products which are all made from organic
ingredients. Most of the cosmetics have great defensive,
hydrating and skin revitalization effects, as they fight wrinkles.
LERBOLARIO is a brand which can be proud of
selling products according to authentic herbalist traditions. The
most popular beauty line created by the Fitocosmetic
Lerbolario laboratory is called Folta Chioma and it has a
special formula that takes care of female and male hair. Folta
Chioma has a protective effect improving the hair strength and
it also prevents the premature loss of it.
Marble Hill retails a wide variety of hypoallergenic
skincare products available both in the EU and the USA. This
brand uses no colours, no fragrances or chemical additives.
Marks & Spencer is one of the United Kingdoms
most famous retailers. This brand is devoted to provide you a
variety of cosmetics, all of these personal care products being
certified cruelty-free and carrying the Leaping Bunny mark. It
fulfills all expectations when it comes to Hair Care, Lip Care,
Hypo-Allergenic Skin Care.
Bucharest
2015

Figure 6 Original, Stan Cristina Aida,

Bellapierre, 2015

Moa is another brand which is proud to be on the list with retailers that manufacture an
all-natural range of cosmetics. It uses ingredients such as beeswax, coconut, sweet almond and
yarrow, being vegetarian and completely against animal testing.
Another cruelty-free brand would be Montagne Jeunesse, which offers both men and
women a wide range of vegetarian hair and face products such as masks, lip balms and
moisturisers.
Motherlove Herbal Company appeared in 1990, being the first brand which
manufactures products intended exclusively for pregnant women and mothers who are
breastfeeding. The products are made from medicinal plants and some of the finest oils. The
products do not contain synthetic fragrances, synthetic additives, preservatives,
dyes and chemicals or genetically modified components.
Nourish (Advanced Cellular Perfection) is a brand formed by Dr Pauline Hili, a very
famous specialist in organic skincare. It uses only vegan raw materials and their sources are
always written in the label.
Another brand which cand be found here, in Romania, is called Rejuvi and it also offer
vegan products. Its is popular for the Rejuville Anti-Aging hair care line.
Suma must certainly be mentioned in this list, as it is a brand which promotes a
healthy and responsible lifestyle through ethically-sourced and organic products.
The Body Shop is internationally-recognised as retailing a wide range of cruelty-free
cosmetics since 1976. In 2006, The Body Shop was
bought by Loreal which is not approved under the
Humane Cosmetics Standard.
ZAO Essence of Nature is famous for the
wide range of mineral cosmetics that it produces.
These cosmetics are always made with organic and
fairly traded components. From lipsticks and
foundations to mascara and eye shadows, all of
these products are packaged in eco-friendly
bamboo packaging.

Figure 7 http://www.earth911.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/12/zao-mineral-silk300x300.jpg

Bucharest
2015

Specific Legislation
Eu-level and National-level
Some provisions of the EU Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products:
Directive 76/768/EEC on cosmetic products, law No. 178/2000 concerning cosmetic
products and OMS 1448/2005 with subsequent modifications-Replaced starting July 11, 2013:
-EU regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products- european act applicable as such in all EU
Member States-with subsequent modifications;
-EU regulation 655/2013 for common criteria concerning statements relating to cosmetic
products;
-Commission decision on guidelines to annex I to Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products;
-HG.../2014 for the implementation of Regulation 1223/2009;
"Article 2-Definitions, subparagraphs (1)
"cosmetic product" means any substance or mixture intended for placing in contact with
the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair, nail areas, lips and external
genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity, with the sole
purpose or primary to clean them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, to protect
them, to keep them in good condition or to correct body odours. "
"Article 3-safety
A cosmetic product put on the market must be safe for human health when used
under normal or reasonably foreseeable use, bearing in mind, in particular, of the following
items: (a) presentation, including respecting the Directive
87/357/EEC; (b)labelling; (c) instructions for use and disposal;(d) any other indication or
information provided by the responsible person as defined in article 4.
The provisions concerning the warnings do not exempt the persons referred to in articles 2 and
4 of other obligations provided for in this regulation. "
Responsible Person
-The details are presented in the context of Article 4;
-The obligations of the responsible person referred to in Article 5;
Distributor's Obligations -Presented in Article 6;
Identification within the supply chain:The details are presented in the framework of article 7:
"At the request of a competent authority:
persons responsible for identifying distributors who provide the cosmetic product;
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identify the Distributor the Distributor or the person in charge of the cosmetic
product purchased, and the distributors who supplied the cosmetic product.
This obligation must be observed for a period of three years from the date on which the cosmetic
product was made available to the vendor. "
Notification Article 13 "(1) before inserting the cosmetic product on the market, the person
responsible shall send the Commission, by electronic means, the following information:..."
File with information about the product-Article 11
-Any cosmetic product has a file;
-Dossier contains information and data required by the regulation, which are updated
whenever necessary;
-File are kept for 10 years from the date on which the last lot of product has been put on the
market;
-The person responsible for ensuring that the competent authority of the Member
State in which it is kept with product info folder has easy access to this folder, in electronic
format or in another format, at his address as indicated on the label;
Labeling-article 19
Cosmetic products are made available on the market only if the container and packaging
of cosmetic products are marked with the following information visible,easily
legible and indelible:
a.-name/business name and address of the person responsible-abbreviated if the
abbreviation makes it possible to identify the person concerned and of the address.When several
addresses are indicated, it is highlighted that address at which the person who is responsible to
provide prompt information about product stays. For those cosmetic products wich are imported,
it must be specified the country of origin.
b-rated content at the time of packing (weight/volume), with the exception of the packages
containing less than five grams or five millilitres,/of the packages containing products for
single use. For the prepackaged products sold usually as a number of articles for which
the indication of weight or volume is not significant, it is not necessary to specify
the content, provided that the number of articles must appear on the package. It is not necessary
to specify this information in case the number of articles is easily determined from the
outside or if the product is normally sold singly.
c.-the date until which the cosmetic product, stored under appropriate conditions,fulfils its
initial function and in particular remains in conformity with article 3 ("minimum
durability date");
The date itself, or the details of the place where it is inscribed on the
packaging are preceded by the symbol appearing in section 3 of annex VII and the words: "to be
used preferably before".
Minimum durability date shall be clearly expressed and shall
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consist of either month and year or the day, month and year in that order. Where necessary, this
information shall be supplemented by an indication of the conditions which must be satisfied in
order to ensure the minimum durability . Indication of the date of minimum durability shall not
be mandatory for cosmetic products with a shelf life of 30 months. Such
products are accompanied by the indication of the duration of use after opening for which the
product is safe and can be used without having any harmful effects on the consumer. This
information shall be indicated, except in cases in which the concept of durability after opening
is irrelevant by the symbol appearing in paragraph 2 of annex VII followed the duration of
use (in months and/or years).
d.-Special precautions to be observed in the use, at least those referred to in annexes III to VI,
and any information pertaining to special precautions regarding cosmetic products for
professional use.
e-batch number of the product, or the reference number identifying the cosmetic
product. When, for practical reasons, this is impossible because of the cosmetic products small
size, such information need to appear only on the packaging.
f-function of the cosmetic product, where it is clear from the presentation.
g.-a list of ingredients (INCI). This information may be disclosed only on the packaging. The
list is preceded by the word "ingredients". References to perfume,aromatic compositions and
their raw materials shall be made by the terms"scent"/"aroma", and the presence of substances
shall be included in the list of ingredients in addition to the
terms "perfume" or "aroma". Nano materials have the word "nano" in parenthesis after the name
of the ingredient.
When, for practical reasons, it is
impossible to specify the information on the label referred to in
subparagraphs (d) (special precautions) and (g) (ingredients), the following shall apply:
The information must be stated on an enclosed leaflet, label, tape or card and it also must be
included or attached to the product;
A reference is made to this information either through an abbreviated form, or the
symbol Open Book and hand referred to in point 1 of annex VII, and must appear on the
container or on the container for the information referred to in point (d), and on the
packaging for the information referred to in paragraph (1) (g).
The language in which information is given above, except those relating to
ingredients, is determined by the legislation of the Member State in which the product is made
available to the end user.

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Art.23 Communication of serious undesirable effects

Art. 23. (1) in the event of serious unwanted effects, the person responsible shall notify, without
delay, the competent authority of the Member State in which the unwanted effect was produced
the following information:... "
-All serious undesired effects that you know or reasonably assume that you should be aware
of; the name of the cosmetic product, enabling its concrete; the corrective measures
undertaken by them as appropriate.
When the person responsible for reporting serious unwanted effects talked to the competent
authority of the Member State where the effect has occurred, he shall immediately forward the
information referred to in paragraph 1 to the competent authorities of the other Member States.
When end users or staff health reports serious unwanted effects to the competent authority of the
Member State where the effect has occurred, it shall immediately forward the
information on cosmetic product the competent authorities of the other Member States and the
person responsible.
-Competent Authorities (AC) may use the information referred to in Art. 23 for the purpose
of market supervision, market analysis, for evaluation and for informing the consumer in the
context of articles 25, 26 and 27.
Definitions-featured in the Article. 2:
-"adverse effect" means an adverse reaction to health attributable to normal or
reasonable foreseeable use of a cosmetic product;
-"serious adverse effect"-an undesirable effect that produces a functional disability,temporary or
permanent disability, hospitalisation, congenital anomalies, a vital immediate risk or death;
Note:
Sources of information for the preparation of this legislation: 655/2013 Regulation laying
down common criteria for the justification of statements used in connection with
cosmetics, guiding Material prepared by the European Commission for Regulation655/2013, the
recommendation concerning the statements concerning the absence of animal
testing, the Recommendation concerning the labelling and the efficacy of sunscreen products,
materials and presentations developed by Cosmetics Europe-Thestaff association
(www.cosmeticseurope.eu)

Aspects of EU Regulation 655/2013 establishing common criteria for the justification of

statements used in connection with cosmetics (1)
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Disclaimers are texts, trademarks, pictures and figurative or

other signs which convey,explicitly or implicitly, the characteristics or functions by means of the
labelling,placing on the market and the advertising of cosmetics.
Statements concerning products are marketing tools that are essential
-to help consumers/users to choose a product,
-encourage competition,
-promotes innovation.
Declarations relating to cosmetic products are subject to a multiple set of rules thatcan be
applied at the same time. In EU, statements relating to cosmetics may be controlled by
the various national authorities, including non-governmental organizations, on the basis of their
codes of practice-in Romania, RAC - Romanian Advertising Council (www.rac.ro).
Rules applicable to statements relating to cosmetic watch 2 objectives:
-protection of consumers (against deceptive advertising);
-fair competition;
The cosmetics legislation, namely the "lex specialis" for statements related to the
features and functions of cosmetic products
Art. amend Article 20. 6 (3) of the directive, but the principle remains the same:
Article 20 (1): "in the labelling, making available on the market and in advertising of cosmetic
products are not used texts, names, trade marks, pictures and figurative or other
signs suggesting that these products have characteristics or functions that do not in fact possess."
Article 11 (2) (d): product Folder (PIF) must include "evidence of the effect of the cosmetic
product, where this is justified by the nature or effect of the cosmetic product;"
Art. 20 (2) ".. After consulting with the relevant authorities CCSC, the Commission
shall adopt a list of common criteria for the statements, which can be used in the
case of cosmetic products, in accordance with the regulatory
procedurewith scrutiny referred to in article 32 (3) of this regulation, taking into
account the provisions of Directive 2005/29/EC.

6 criteria which apply to the product qualified as being cosmetic

Legal compliance- Conformitate
Veracity- Veridicitate
The supporting evidence- Elemente probatorii
Honesty- Onestitate
Equity- Echitate
Choosing knowledgeably- Alegere in cunostinta de cauza
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Conclusion
What we certainly know is that the human body reacts extremely
different than animals . Due to the fact that animals are stressed out during these
tests, the results may vary and can be interpreted with high difficulty. In addition to
this, treatments according to such tests are rarely valid for people and as a
consequence, not only the animal's life, but also money and time are squandered.
Animal tests are extremely painful and cause severe injury to rabbits, Guinea pigs
and mice. All tests are done without anesthesia and without further medical care.
These unlucky animals are kept
in terrible conditions in small iron cages, deprived of natural
light. No lip balm moisturizer, no mascara and no
other product
does not justify such cruelty acts against animals. I
understand the issue and this is why I will
not buy any product which does not guarantee the fact that
they are cruelty-free. The person who choses to buy such a
product, indirectly supports animal experiments because
there are alternatives. We can make a difference!

Figure 8
http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u
u224/lizzard_012/anit98.jpg

Figure 9 http://www.animal-rightsaction.com/images/animal-experimentationrabbit-draize-eye-irritacy-tests.jpg

Bibliography

Figure 10
http://www.cosmeticanimaltestingpictures.com/i
mages/thumbnails/primate_testing_540x.jpg

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http://www.biobeauty.ro/Balm-Balm
http://exporthelp.europa.eu/thdapp/taxes/show2Files.htm?
dir=/requirements&reporterId1=EU&file1=ehir_eu13_04v002/eu/main/req_spcosme
t_eu_010_0612.htm&reporterLabel1=EU&reporterId2=NL&file2=ehir_nl13_04v002/n
l/main/req_spcosmet_nl_010_0612.htm&reporterLabel2
http://www.gocrueltyfree.org/search/?product-type=cosmetics&country=199
http://www.organik.ro/producers/index/barefaced-beauty
http://www.peta.org/international/
http://www.purecosmetics.ro/
http://ro.motherlove.eu/?q=node/21
Compliance with Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products roles
responsibilities along the supply chain, a practical guide
Guidelines on Cosmetic Product Labelling, 2011
Guidelines on Product Information File (PIF) Requirement, 2011
Guiding Principles on Responsible Advertising and Marketing
Communication (preluat ca Anexa la Codul de practica in publicitate al
RAC Romanian Advertising Council)

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2015