Vilnius

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Vilnius
August - November 2015
inyourpocket.com
N116 - 0.58
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Arriving & Getting Around
5
11
Some simple differences worth knowing
History
13
A mind-boggling millennium
Culture & Events
15
Art, photography and the rest
Where to eat
22
The capitals kitchens in all their glory
Nightlife
46
Where to party in Vilnius
What to see
A fully comprehensive guide
73
Trakai
74
Lithuanias former capital uncovered
Where to get off and how to stay afloat
City Basics
Jewish Vilnius
58
Where to stay
77
Campsites and presidential suites for all
Mail & Phones
80
Keeping in touch
Shopping
81
Lifestyle Directory
87
Sport, Leisure & Health
90
Business Directory
92
Maps & Index

Street index
93
City centre map
94
City map
96
Country map
97
Old Town view of Sts. Johns Church bell tower
facebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Foreword
Marrying the cultural with the quirky, the historical with
the modern, the gourmet with the meat and potatoes, the
sommeliers wines with the craft beers, the international
shopping brands with the local souvenirs, and the risqu
entertainment with binging on Game of Thrones in your
comfy hotel room, Vilnius is everything you want from a
destination. Almost. Okay, so sometimes it may be lacking
in the sunny weather department. But its still possible to
deftly use a smartphone to take photos and read our expanded guide online while holding an umbrella.
As usual weve been sampling the citys summertime
courtyards and its newest restaurants and can safely say
there has never been a better time to visit Vilnius. Even its
statues have started to speak (see p.66). Enjoying a coffee
at one of the Old Towns cafs amid the countless baroque
and gothic spires is one of Vilnius special experiences. As
autumnal skies start to pass overhead, many of the terraces,
outdoor tables and beer gardens will stay open in the expectation of a late burst of warm weather, before cosy restaurant and caf interiors fully take over for the long winter.
In any case, galleries and museums, churches, parks and
hilltop views dont stop as seasons change (though theyre
often shut on Mondays). That makes Vilnius a pleasure to
visit all year round.
Publisher
E S S E N TI A L
Vilnius In Your Pocket
C I TY G U I D E S
Bernardin 9 - 4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, fax (+370) 5 212 29 82
vilnius@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1392-0057
UAB VIYP
Printed by UAB Lietuvos ryto spaustuv
Published three times per year
Print run 20,000
Editorial
Editor Howard Jarvis
Design Vaida Kniktien
Researcher Dovil Rikuvien
Cover Photo Rta Klimaviit
Sales & Circulation
Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket
General Manager Rta Klimaviit
Accounting V ACORDO
Sales Manager Tel. (+370) 610 468 64.
This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available
for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your
Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as
well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of
Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.
cover story
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2015; some photos,
LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardin
9-4,Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
One of Vilnius characteristics is its

quirky playfulness, evident in its
unique, fun-loving gift shops and
souvenir stalls. We spotted this one
on the corner of Pilies and Bernardin.
About IYP
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4 Vilnius In Your Pocket
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Arriving in and getting around Vilnius are fairly simple
affairs once you understand the basics. Accordingly,
travelling further afield is relatively painless if youre
prepared to do your research beforehand and use
some sign language when using buses and trains. Car
rental prices approximately match Western standards.
Arriving in Vilnius
The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very different experiences indeed, making your first few minutes
in the city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements are taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius
In Your Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus and train stations for just 0.58.
By bus
Vilnius bus station (autobus stotis) is located less than
1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit
perfectly safe area. Most facilities are located inside
one large grey building and include kiosks and shops
for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone
cards, downstairs toilets (0.29) and ATMs. For 24-hour
currency exchange, use the Medicinos bank across
the street and just to the right of the train station. A
bagain for left luggage is located outside at the far
end of the platforms.
Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by
turning left on exiting the station and walking down
the hill (Sod). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can be found in the immediate area, all going off
in different directions around the city and none of them
offering a lot of help for people who dont speak Lithuanian. Among the useful services going through the city
centre are trolleybus N2 and bus N1G. Buy a ticket from
the driver for 1, punch it in the ticket puncher, and off
you go. Taxis areparked here and there. Be sure to negotiate a fare before you leave. Expect to pay 6 or even
more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling one in advance
is the best option.
By plane
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro
Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if youre
landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities
are quick and relatively straightforward. After collecting
your luggage enter through the electric sliding doors
into the Arrivals Hall, an experience which is not unlike
stepping into the ticket hall of 19th century provincial
train station. There youll find a kiosk for snacks, maps,
cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs, currency exchange offices and a small tourist information
kiosk. Toilets are to the left, and car rental companies
to the right.
Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the
vehicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost
about 15 or possibly considerably more depending
on the cheek of the driver. Calling one in advance will
cost a lot less. If you dont know how to do it yourself
ask the people in the tourist information kiosk to order

one for you. If youre travelling to the city centre and
want to save a small fortune, take public transport.
Bus N88 goes to the Old Town, N1 goes to the train
station and rapid bus N3G to Lukiki Aikt (Juozo
Tumo-Vaiganto stop) and north over the river past the
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. The bus stop is to the left of
the taxi stand, and timetables are posted at the stop.
Buy a ticket from the driver for 1, punch it in the ticket
puncher, and off you go.Alternatively, hop on a train and
in less than 10 minutes be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just 0.72. The
airport train station can be found along the road outside
the main exit and on the left. Trains leave every hour or
so from around 06:00 until 21:30, with a journey time of
just seven minutes.
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) Vilnius International
Airport, situated approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar
can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells
and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of
Duty Free shops and cafs are located the other side of customs control. Free wireless internet is available throughout
the airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport for
information on tickets), take N3G from Lukiki Aikt
(Juozo Tumo-Vaiganto stop) or N1 from the train station,
or use the shuttle train service that departs from the train
station every 30 minutes between around 06:00 and 21:30.
Buy a ticket on board the train for just 0.72. A taxi from
Old Town currently costs around 15 using a hotel-booked
firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get
a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company.
By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5
266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the
trip for just 5.QRodnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 612 444
42, www.vno.lt. Open 24hrs.
By train
The train station (geleinkelio stotis) is fairly large by local standards. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps,
cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered
in and around the building, toilets downstairs for 0.29,
ATMs and a 24-hour Medicinos bank outside to the left
for changing money.
Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by
going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod). The train station is just across
the street from the bus station. See By bus for more
information about getting to the centre by public
transport.
Whats going on?

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train schedule
From Vilnius
Dep.
Arr.
05:34 07:17
08:13 09:59
11:44 13:30
15:10 16:51
16:48 18:10
17:50 19:12
21:06 22:31
05:06 11:09
10:24 16:50
13:09 19:40
04:29 05:42
04:42 06:20
06:18 07:39
07:27 08:49
08:44 10:19
11:37 13:11
14:02 15:20
14:50 16:22
16:25 17:38
16:40 18:20
17:49 19:00
18:36 20:15
21:00 22:33
06:41 10:31
09:56 14:31
16:31 20:22
17:40 22:16
08:00 10:30
15:58 18:45
19:14 21:44
17:55 09:01
16:591,2 11:09
14:07 16:49
17:40 20:18
04:50 05:28
09:46 10:24
13:30 14:08
Destination
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
IGNALINA
KALININGRAD
KALININGRAD
KALININGRAD
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KAUNAS
KLAIPDA
KLAIPDA
KLAIPDA
KLAIPDA
MINSK
MINSK
MINSK
MOSCOW
ST. PETERSBURG
IAULIAI
IAULIAI
TRAKAI
TRAKAI
TRAKAI
To Vilnius
Dep.
Arr.
04:25
06:05
05:11
06:31
09:17
11:01
12:48
14:32
16:52
18:33
18:56
20:34
20:30
21:53
13:44
19:45
16:56
23:28
18:59
01:31
05:02
06:32
05:49
07:26
06:23
07:41
07:14
08:47
08:09
09:29
09:14
10:42
15:51
17:26
16:37
17:54
17:20
18:57
18:32
19:51
19:17
20:52
19:44
20:59
21:45
23:04
07:05
11:08
09:53
14:55
16:35
20:33
17:00
21:58
11:10
13:57
19:50
22:20
21:46
02:14
18:58
09:00
16:403,4 10:07
17:26
20:07
18:15
20:33
05:45
06:25
11:11
11:53
14:29
15:11
- 2 4 6 7 till September 6, 2015. 2 - 2 4 6 from

September 8, 2015. 3 1-3 - 5 7 till September 7, 2015.
4
- - 3 - 5 -7 from September 9, 2015.
Not all services listed. Correct at the time of going to
press and subject to change during the lifetime of this
guide. More information at www.litrail.lt
Valid until November 30, 2015.
1
Cheap and efficient, public transport in Vilnius is generally reliable
Public transport
Served by a network of city-owned buses and trolleybuses, the capitals public transport services begin at around
05:00 and continue through the day before stopping not
much later than 23:00. Vilnius does not yet have a nightbus
service except on New Years Eve and on a couple of other
special occassions. Getting about the city is cheap, and
relatively easy once you have the hang of the basics. (Being
able to buy tickets directly from bus and trolleybus drivers
helps). Note that public transport can be very crowded during peak hours, and that pickpockets are not uncommon
on the busiest routes (especially those to and from the bus
station).
Buses & Trolleybuses
All buses and trolleybuses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the Municipality. Paper tickets for single journeys are no longer available from kiosks and can only be
bought from the driver, with the fare currently priced at
1 for a single journey on one vehicle. Unless you plan
on spending a lot of time using public transport whilst in
Vilnius, this relatively simple system should be more than
adequate although its worth mentioning the alternative,
namely the Vilnieio Kortel, an electronic ticket available
for 1.50 from kiosks around town. Technically a brilliant
idea, the Vilnieio Kortel is a bit confusing in reality due
to the variety of credits its possible to add to it. The two
most useful top-up options, available at kiosks around the
city, are to top up with either journeys lasting for up to 30
minutes at 0.64 a trip or up to 60 minutes for 0.93. These
can then be used easily by holding the card against the
yellow machine on all buses and trolleybuses which automatically take the fare off the card. Alternatively, put any
amount you choose on the card and select which length
journey you want when using the machine on board the
vehicle. Other options are available for tickets valid from
one to 270 days, although we recommend you get a local
to help you if choosing one of these. You can find out all
you need to know about schedules online at www.vilniustransport.lt and more about the Vilnieio Kortel at www.
vilniusticket.lt.

Long-distance buses
All long-distance national and international buses leave from
Vilnius main bus station (autobus stotis). Although tickets
for many journeys can be bought directly from the driver
its worth getting one in advance at no extra cost. The ticket
office for national bus services is located inside the waiting
room. International tickets can be bought from several different outlets found scattered around the building as well as
from a number of travel agencies in the city. Backpackers and
other travellers on a budget from Western Europe might be
surprised to learn that bus travel in Lithuania is more expensive than using the train.
Bus Station (Autobus Stotis) QB-6, Sod 22,
tel. 1661, www.toks.lt. Open 04:00 - 24:00. Ticket office
open 06:00 - 19:00, Fri 06:00 - 19:30. JA
Ecolines
The Lithuanian outfit of the large European network provides all the usual transport services including cheap
bus journeys in the region and further afield. Other
things include insurance, visas, tourism services and bus
rental.QB-6, Geleinkelio 15, tel. (+370) 5 213 33 00, www.
ecolines.net. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:30.
Also at Vytauto 23, Kaunas, tel. (+370) 37 20 20 22. A
Taxis
Despite recent creeping taxi (taksi) prices, travelling by
taxi in Vilnius remains relatively cheap, especially if you
order one in advance by telephone. In an attempt to
stem the flow of moonlighters, all taxis in Lithuania are
now instantly recognisable by their compulsory yellow
number plates, although this should in no way lure
anyone into believing this has changed the free-market
spirit of the average taksistas (taxi driver). Taxi drivers in
Vilnius are no different to taxi drivers anywhere else, and
will in general take any opportunity to relieve clients of
more money than they need to. The standard rule is to
make sure the meter is running and set to the correct
tariff before setting off. Arguments with taxi drivers are
futile, and there are several stories floating around of
drunken foreigners being assaulted when arguing about
the fare. Finally, be extremely cautious of hotels who offer deals with individual taxi companies as theyre usually
set at extortionate rates. Prices listed below are for standard daytime journeys within the city limits.
Tourist information
Vilnius Tourist Information (Vilniaus Turizmo Informacijos Centras
ir Konferencij Biuras) Tour bookings for
groups and individuals, audio guides, Vilnius City
Card, maps, tourist-related publications, cultural
events (www.vilnius-events.lt), taxi and accommodation booking. English-, German-, Polish- and
Russian-speaking staff. See their extensive website
for more information.QB-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370)
5 262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262 81 69, tic@vilnius.lt,
www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Also
at Didioji 31 (Town Hall), tel. (+370) 5 262 64 70.
ventaragio 2 (Cathedral Square), Rodnios Kelias 2
-1 (Vilnius International Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 68
41. JAW
Lux Express QB-6, Sod 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 233 66
66, www.luxexpress.eu. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 19:00. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama). JA
Trains
Vilnius main train station (geleinkelio stotis) handles services to a number of destinations within Lithuania as well
as international trains to Belarus, Russia and Latvia. Most
tickets can be bought from a row of kiosks to the right of
the main entrance. Tickets for international trains can also
be purchased from a small office inside and immediately
to the left of the main entrance. The general rule is that
tickets stop being sold 10 minutes before a train is due to
depart. With the exception of some international services,
tickets can be bought on board trains from the conductor
for which a 1.45 commission is charged.
Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) QB-6,
Geleinkelio 16, tel. (+370) 700 551 11, www.litrail.lt.
Ticket office open 24hrs. J
Smart Taxi
Call 1820 or (+370) 5 200 08 20 for a taxi. You can also
use the website (at which you can pre-book cars) but it
is currently only in Lithuanian.Qtel. 1820/(+370) 5 200
08 20, www.smarttaxi.lt. 0.69/km.
Standart Taxi Qtel. (+370) 5 240 00 04, www.
standart-taksi.lt. 0.67/km.
Vilnius International Airports efficient little railway station

Car rental
Offices representing all of the major international car rental
companies can be found in Vilnius alongside a few local
businesses of varying standards. All types of vehicle are
represented, with many companies also offering chauffeur
services. Most major driving international licences are accepted.
Avis QD-2, B. Radvilaits 5a, tel. (+370) 698 448 31,
www.avis.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00.
Also at Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport).
Rimas Qtel. (+370) 698 216 62, rimas.cars@is.lt. Open
24hrs.
Local bus schedule

birtonas
06:20, 07:20, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:25, 14:40, 16:10,
18:10.
Druskininkai
07:20, 08:40, 09:35, 10:00, 11:00, 12:10, 13:00, 14:20,
15:40, 16:15, 17:10, 18:20, 18:40, 20:30.
Kaunas
05:45, 06:20, 06:30, 07:00, 07:15, 07:30, 07:45, 08:10,
08:20, 08:30, 08:45, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 10:05,
10:30, 10:45, 11:00, 11:30, 11:45, 12:10, 12:20, 12:35,
13:00, 13:30, 14:00, 14:35, 15:00, 15:10, 15:25, 16:05,
16:25, 16:45, 17:00, 17:25, 17:45, 18:00, 18:40, 19:20,
19:45, 20:15, 21:10, 23:00.
Klaipda
06:40, 07:55, 08:50, 11:35, 12:00, 13:20, 14:00, 14:50,
16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30, 23:00.
NIDA
06:40, 07:00, 08:45.
Palanga
08:50, 11:00, 12:00, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30, 23:00.
PaNEVYS
06:10, 06:30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 09:00, 09:50, 10:20,
10:35, 11:10, 11:30, 12:00, 12:50, 13:40, 14:25, 14:50,
15:10, 15:50, 16:30, 17:00, 17:20, 17:40, 18:05, 19:20.
iauliai
06:30, 07:50, 09:50, 11:10, 12:00, 13:00, 14:25, 15:20,
16:05, 17:40, 18:20, 19:20.
Trakai
07:20, 08:20, 08:55, 09:15, 09:30, 09:45, 10:40, 10:55,
12:10, 12:35, 13:10, 13:25, 14:00, 14:40, 15:00, 15:40,
16:10, 16:40, 17:00, 17:45, 18:10, 18:45, 20:00.
Valid until November 30, 2015. Not all services
listed. Correct at the time of going to press and subject
to change during the lifetime of this guide. The website at www.autobusubilietai.lt is the best resource for
up-to-date, accurate information about travelling by
bus in Lithuania.
Parking
Street parking in Vilnius is divided into four colour-coded zones, namely blue, red, yellow and green. Colourcoded parking meters eat coins and regurgitate a little
printed ticket. Times when payments are required are
marked on blue signs using Roman numerals to represent days, and numbers to represent times. A sign
displaying I-V 8-22 for example means you must pay
to park on Monday (I) to Friday (V) from 08:00 to 22:00.
Signs can be hidden or placed miles away from the
parking space in question. A pay-by-SMS system is also
in operation, although in order to use it you must have
a local SIM card. Buy a bar-coded windscreen sticker
and register it in order to use this service if youre planning on living in the city or staying for an extended
period of time. Keep valuables hidden at all times, including radios if possible.
Sixt QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239
56 36, www.sixt.lt. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 17:00. Also at Sod 14 (Panorama Hotel), Konstitucijos
20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva). A
Airport transfer
Baltic Travel Cars
A wide choice of quality cars and larger vehicles available for
rent, plus transfers, GPS rental and luxury limousines from a
leading local company who also specialise in general tourism
and entertainment activities.QI. Simonaityts 2A-25, tel.
(+370) 671 988 88 (24hrs), info@baltictravelcars.lt, www.
baltictravelcars.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00. A
LuxTransfer
English-speaking drivers of very comfortable cars will look
after you superbly from arrivals hall to wherever it is in
Lithuania you are going: home, hotel, office. The cars even
have free Wifi.Qtel. (+370) 610 240 42, info@luxtransfer.
lt, www.luxtransfer.lt. Open 24hrs. A
Life in the fast lane (if you have a bike)

Airlines
Air Baltic QRiga International Airport, tel. (+370)
5 232 92 92/(+371) 670 060 06 (for calls from abroad),
www.airbaltic.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 20:00. JA
Austrian Airlines QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.austrian.com.
Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Brussels Airlines QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport),
tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.brusselsairlines.com.
Estonian Air QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel.
(+370) 5 232 93 00/(+370) 647 000 48, vno@ticketing.
lt, www.estonian-air.com. Open 03:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
03:00 - 17:00.
Finnair QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5
252 50 10, www.finnair.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
LOT QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 273 90
00/(+370) 647 000 48, vno@ticketing.lt, www.lot.com.
Open 03:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 03:00 - 17:00.
Lufthansa QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370)
5 232 92 92, www.lufthansa.com.
Norwegian Air Shuttle QRodnios Kelias 2
(Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.norwegian.no.
SAS Scandinavian Airlines QRodnios Kelias
2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 66 38/(+370) 5 232 92 92,
www.flysas.com.
Turkish Airlines QRodnios Kelias 2-3 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 219 07 25, info.lt@thy.com, www.
turkishairlines.com. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 16:00.
Hitchhiking
Hitching a ride is quite common in Lithuania. As in every country, women are advised never to do so alone. To
get onto the road to Riga, take trolleybus N11, 16 or 19
to the final (Pailaii iedas) stop in Pailaiiai where
Laisvs meets the A2 (E272) highway. For the A1 (E85)
highway to Kaunas and the sea, take trolleybus N4, 6,
12, 15 or 18 to the penultimate (mdi) stop and
walk along until you reach the section where the road
starts going up the hill. This is also the place to start
hitching for Druskininkai and Poland. For more information about hitchhiking in Lithuania and beyond, see the
excellent www.autostop.lt, run by the long-established
Vilnius Hitchhiking Club who organise everything from
social events to help finding free accommodation.
international bus
schedule
From Vilnius
Dep.
Arr.
14:301 06:40
14:302 16:45
14:302* 05:45
14:301 02:30
07:00 11:25
10:00 15:00
16:15 20:30
21:30 01:40
20:154 11:50
14:303 19:30
07:00 16:15
21:30 06:35
14:301 22:30
20:154 03:35
20:154 18:30
Destination
BERLIN
COLOGNE
LONDON
POZNA
RIGA
RIGA
RIGA
RIGA
ROME
STUTTGART
TALLINN
TALLINN
WARSAW
WARSAW
VIENNA
To Vilnius
Dep.
Arr.
20:301 14:50
10:155 14:50
21:307* 14:50
00:301 14:50
02:10
06:20
11:45
16:00
15:00
19:40
18:00
22:15
15:009 08:40
08:006 14:50
11:30
20:45
21:30
06:20
04:301 14:50
23:308 08:40
08:309 08:40
Days of the week (1=Monday)

1
1 2 3 4 5 6 7, 2 1 2 - 4 - 6 -, 3 - - 3 - 5 - 7, 4 - - - 4 - 6 -, 5 1- 3
4 - 6 -, 6 - 2 - - 5 - 7, 7 - 2 3 - 5 - 7, 8 1 - 3 - - - -, 9 - 2 - - - - 7.
*
Bus change.
Correct at the time of going to press and subject to
change during the lifetime of this guide. Not all services
listed. More information at www.eurolines.lt
Valid until November 30, 2015.
UTair QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232
92 92, www.utair.ru.
WizzAir QRodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5
252 50 10, www.wizzair.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Cycling
CycloCity
CycloCity, a joint initiative between Vilnius Municipality
and JCDecaux, is aimed at anyone looking to cycle around
the city. A subscription-based service, it allows users to
rent from a stock of over 300 bicycles parked at 40 stations
around the city for any amount of time - just as long as
youve got enough credit in your account. Subscriptions
are available online at www.cyclocity.lt and cost 19.90 a
year. There are number of deals - including a special threeday offer - and the chance to use your Vilnieio Kortel. See
the website for more information about deals and to sign
up. You will need to be 14.Qtel. (+370) 800 220 08, www.
cyclocity.lt. Open April 15 - October 15. A

Driving
Given that Vilnius is a relatively small city and that its main
sights can be reached either on foot or by public transport,
most visitors to the Lithuanian capital will have little cause
to worry about driving. If you do fancy exploring the city (or
the rest of the country) by car, however, it is worth noting
that despite its earlier reputation as possessing the deadliest roads in the EU, driving in Lithuania is now far safer than
at any time in the countrys post-communist history.
Indeed, over the past ten years the fatality rate has fallen
by an impressive 10 per cent. The rate of fatalities per
head of population does remain one of the EUs highest, along with Poland and Greece. But as a general rule,
driving in Lithuania presents no more hazards than you
would expect to find in any other country in the region:
the poor state of some roads will be the biggest challenge you are likely to face.
The basic rules of the Lithuanian roads are as follows: seat
belts are compulsory for all (both driver and passengers),
and headlights must be used at all times of day or night. All
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire-extinguisher and
first aid kit, and you will need to have your driving license
and vehicle registration papers with you at all times.
From October to April, all cars must also be equipped
with winter tyres (an ice scraper and a brush should also
form part of your winter kit). If hiring a car, all of these
things will be provided by the car rental company.
The speed limit around town is 50kph unless otherwise
indicated. Elsewhere you can drive at 90kph on main
roads, 70kph on unpaved roads. Note that on the countrys highways the usual speed limit of 130kph is reduced
to 100kph during the winter.
Veloklinika.lt
Tucked away in a courtyard on the small street connecting Kudirkos with Pamnkalnio, this highly recommended
bicycle repair workshop is staffed mostly by young gentlemen listening to Bob Marley with the addition of one older
fellow doing most of the work. All maintenance and repair
work is undertaken, all of it to a high standard and for a
good price. Also bicycles and accessories for sale.QG4, A. Domaeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 606 877 54, www.
veloklinika.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Vilnius Bike Tours & Rental - VeloCity
Vilnius A local organisation that rents bicycles, organises city tours by bicycle, provides maps and information
about cycling in the city and organises free cycling events.
Their daily (except Sundays) bicycle tour All Sides of Vilnius
begins at 11:00 at the bicycle rental point on the corner of
Palangos 1/ Pylimo 10.QA-3, Palangos 1/10, tel. (+370)
674 121 23, info@velovilnius.lt, www.velovilnius.lt.
Open 10:00 - 21:00 (from April till September). JA
Looking towards Vilnius commercial district
Travel agencies
Most of the following companies provide services for onward travel or simply for taking a holiday. Some can also
arrange visas for Russia and Belarus.
BPC Travel QB-00, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 210
25 90, www.bpctravel.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:30. Closed
Sat, Sun. JA
Krantas Travel QA-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370)
5 231 33 14, www.krantas.lt. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Senamiesio Gidas QC-5, Auros Vart 7,
tel. (+370) 699 540 64/(+370) 5 261 55 58, www.
vilniuscitytour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30
- 16:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00 (September 1 - May 31). JA
The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind QD-3,
Uupio 23-9, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA
Visit Lithuania QB-2, Odmini 11, tel. (+370) 5
262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. Open 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. JA
National Holidays
January 1 New Years Day & National Flag Day
February 16 Independence Day
March 11 Restoration of Independence Day
March 27 (2016) Easter Sunday (Catholic)
March 28 (2016) Easter Monday (Catholic)
May 1 A day off for the workers!
May 1 (2016) Mothers Day
June 5 (2016) Fathers Day
June 24 Jonins, or Midsummer
July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas
August 15 olin (Assumption)
November 1 All Saints Day
December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
Vilnius Basics
Alcohol
Customs
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,

crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and
youre recommended to test a few before settling on a
regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the
magnificent vyturys from Klaipda, Utenos from Utena and
Kalnapilis from Panevys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius cant
claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the
capital youll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife). Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than
their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of
the most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the
region of 1.50-3 for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtin)
is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto
at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the
more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century Polish-Lithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with
apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater,
samagonas, available through the right connections. Take
note that imported alcohol isnt cheap. Dont go falling into
the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway
everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid
an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the
time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between
22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania.
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to
make it known if theyre arriving with more than 10,000
worth of cash. When arriving from non-EU countries youre
entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine
or sixteen litres of beer. If arriving by air you can bring 200
cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco, a figure thats drastically reduced to 40 cigarettes, 20 cigarillos,
10 cigars or 50g of tobacco if arriving by any other means.
You cant bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside
the EU except under certain circumstances. You cant arrive
with live birds other than pets for non-commercial purposes.
Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of
vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax
free unless its over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay
10-20 per cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece
and your passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage,
nipiki 3, tel. +370 527 342 56. Many of the better antique
shops in Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For
more detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
Borders
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes
of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is
Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements
have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia and Poland, although getting in and out of Belarus and
Kaliningrad remains a process wrapped up in red tape for
holders of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained
from the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius, as
well as from a few travel agencies. Note, however, that
short-term visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you
arrive in the exclave by air. For more information about
getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at www.
pasienis.lt.
Crime & Safety

It is not an exaggeration to say that Lithuania is one of the
safest countries to visit in Europe. While petty crime - mainly
in the form of pickpocketing - is as big a problem in this
country as anywhere else in the world, violent crime is almost unheard of. Even late at night you will not usually be
presented with any potential threats whilst walking around
city centres, and this goes for single women as much as for
large groups of lads. That said, you do need to keep your wits
about you, and be sure that if you go looking for trouble you
might well find it. Keep your valuables close to hand, particularly on busy buses and trolleybuses, and do not leave coats
and handbags unattended in bars, pubs and clubs.
Disabled travellers
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over
the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get
around on anything other than two well functioning legs.
Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly can often be flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on
cobbled streets. Outside the capital, youll be lucky to find
any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. On the
positive side, however, it is worth noting that newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entry platforms, spaces for
wheelchairs and hearing loops.
Driving
The basic rules of the Lithuanian roads are as follows: seat
belts are compulsory for all (both driver and passengers),
and headlights must be used at all times of day or night. All
vehicles must be fitted with a small fire-extinguisher and first
aid kit, and you will need to have your driving license and vehicle registration papers with you at all times. The speed limit
around town is 50kph unless otherwise indicated. Elsewhere
you can drive at 90kph on main roads, 70kph on unpaved
roads. Note that on the countrys highways the usual speed
limit of 130kph is reduced to 100kph during the winter.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at
220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round twopin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the
plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should
bring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible
to find in Lithuania.
11
Vilnius Basics
Exchange rates
1=1.43 1US$=0.92(July 23, 2015)
Local time
Lithuania is in the Eastern European Time (EET) zone at
GMT+2hrs. When its 12:00 in Vilnius its 05:00 in New York, 10:00
in London, 11:00 in Warsaw, 13:00 in Moscow and 19:00 in Tokyo. Eastern European Summer Time (EEST, GMT+3hrs) falls
between the last Sundays of March and October respectively.
Money & Costs

Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept major credit
cards, and ATMs are ubiquitous in urban areas, although if
youre planning a trip to the countryside make sure you take
plenty of cash along. Lithuania is no longer the cheap country
for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers great value to
most visitors from western Europe and North America.
Service
There are exceptions - and we take pride in exposing such
places in our listings - but as a general rule private-sector service in Lithuania (particularly Vilnius) has improved beyond
description during the 20-odd years we have been publishing Vilnius In Your Pocket. When we began, part of our raison
detre was to highlight those few places which offered decent service; now our role is the exact opposite. If you need
to deal with public servants (and usually the average visitor
does not) you might well still come across the odd surly survivor of a bygone age, but even here the trend is towards a
new era of service with efficiency, if not always a smile.
Smoking
Lithuanians by and large like a cigarette (and compared
to countries like the UK cigarettes are very cheap) but that
has not stopped the country adopting some fairly tough
anti-smoking legislation. Smoking is banned in almost all
indoor spaces, including cafes, bars, pubs and clubs except
in carefully separated, special smoking rooms: look for
the smoking symbol in our listings. Smoking is also now
banned in two outdoor spaces in Vilnius: Kudirka Square
and Bernardin Sodas, as well as at bus stops. Smoking
here can leave you open to a fine of between 5.80 and
14.48. If the ban is successful in these areas, other parts of
the capital could also be declared smoke-free.
Basic Data
Population Lithuania 2,944,459 Vilnius 539,939
Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 84.1%
Poles 6.6% Russians 5.8% Belarusians 1.2%
Ukrainians 0.5% Others 1.8%
Territory 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium,
and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland,
peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest
distance is 276km, east to west is 373km
Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania)
Largest lake Drkiai 4,479ha
Highest point Auktasis 293.8m
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (wheres the
toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you
use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a
small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few
non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with
plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone
by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest
establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next
to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
Visas
Lithuania is a member of both the European Union and the
Schengen border-free travel area. Visitors from the EU may
stay in Lithuania for as long as they like, while visitors from
30 or so other countries (including Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United
States) dont require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within
a six month period. A visa issued by or for any Schengen
country is valid in Lithuania. For more information, including the full-list of visa-free countries, take a look at www.
urm.lt.
climate
The climate information below only gives an average
indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often plummet to below -20C.
Temperature, C
Rainfall, mm
30
SPORTS
20
Just as neighbouring Latvia is crazy about ice hockey, Lithuanians go nuts over basketball. Its often even referred to as Lithuanias second religion. Whenever theres an importantgame on,
the nation shuts down to huddle round the nearest TV screen.
To watch players in action orjust practicing,visit Siemens Arena
(see p.18).
10
100
75
50
25
-10
-20
F M A M J
S O N D
History
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter the religious fervour of crusading German knights.
Lithuania was the last European country to convert to
Christianity, and has seen countless invasions and occupations over the centuries.
7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish
themselves on whats now known as Lithuanian territory.
11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written
texts in AD 1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built
on Vilnius Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the
construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it.
13th century emaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at
the Battle of Saul in 1236, establishing the settlement of
iauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Mindaugas (circa 1203-1263) is crowned Lithuanias one and
only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of
the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of
the population remains pagan.
14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 12751341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns,
inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius
with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure
peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his
daughter Aldona to the Polish kings son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krva
Union, whereby Gediminas grandson Jogaila (circa 13481434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess
Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security,
the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the
1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius.
15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led
by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the
Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris. German, Tannenberg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The
country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from
the Baltic to the Black Sea.
16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in
1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The
end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political
and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes
the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with
Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealths resources.
18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795
Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year
Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleons army in 1812 on his failed campaign
to Moscow. During the Napoleonic armys return through
Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation
and extreme cold.
20th Century
During the WWI German occupation of 1915-1918 the
Lithuanian Council proclaims independence on February 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Lithuanian
state comes under attack by the Polish General Jzef
Pisudski (1867-1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and
areas south and north of it from 1920-1939. Poland
maintains control of these areas by claiming they were
a portion of the pre-war Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania
until 1940. During the inter-war period independent
Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictatorship (19261940) of the nationalist president Antanas Smetona
(1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends with the
clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of the MolotovRibbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin, who carve up
Europe into portions to be controlled by Nazi Germany
and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is subject to both Soviet
and Nazi occupation. Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and
their Lithuanian henchmen organise the mass murder of
over 200,000 Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population.
The return of the Red Army and the re-incorporation of
Lithuania into the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task
theyd already begun in 1940 before the Nazis arrived.
Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miko
Broliai), wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of
protest against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972
19-year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in
public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent
against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution. Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the
Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named
the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the
smuggling in of books from neighbouring East Prussia. Another
uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths
by hanging for most of the leading activists. The repression is
countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927) publishes the first
Lithuanian-language newspaper, Auszra (Aura, or Dawn).
Independence & Beyond

1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sjdis is
founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia,
advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August
23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th
anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7
The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle.
1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially
commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain
13
History
stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the
50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact.
1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachevs visit to Vilnius
is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstrators turn out to welcome him. March 4 Pro-independence Sjdis candidates receive an overall majority in
the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11
The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence
and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas
Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17
Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the
parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim
the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are
killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards
and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint
by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings theyve occupied since
January. Lenins statue is removed from Vilnius Lukiki Aikt
(Lukiks Square). A photograph of the event appears on the
cover of Issue N1 of Vilnius In Your Pocket, published on May 1,
1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country
to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All three
Baltic countries are re-admitted into the UN.
1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own
flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928.
1993 June 25 Lithuanias pre-war currency, the litas, is
re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves
Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits.
1994 December Vilnius Old Town joins the list of Unesco
World Heritage sites.
1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at
the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before
returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21
Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to international pressure from the EU.
21st century
2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting
various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas.
2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US
dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which
the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22
Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George
Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US
president to visit the city.
2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas

Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right
wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering
91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote
give a resounding Yes to EU membership.
2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings
with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania
becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on
May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected
president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting
the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in
the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant
says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors.
2007 December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone, allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen countries.
December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia radio station.
2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and
Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on
basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis
win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team
reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty
handed.
2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was
first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends
all services. Dalia Grybauskait, the so-called Iron Lady, is
inaugurated as Lithuanias first female president on July 12.
2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from
the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May
19 a court in Klaipda approves the public display of swastikas arguing that they represent Lithuanias historical heritage, not Nazi Germany. Lithuania take bronze medal in the
World Basketball Championship in Turkey after defeating
Serbia 99-88 on September 12.
2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the
death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas
iurlionis. The country hosts the EuroBasket 2011 competition in cities nationwide between August 31 and September 18. Lithuania is defeated 67-65 by FYR Macedonia
in the quarter finals in Kaunas on September 15.
2013 Lithuania takes over the Presidency of the Council of
the European Union for a six month period between July 1
and December 31.
2014 May 2014 Dalia Grybauskait is re-elected president
of Lithuania.
2015 Lithuania adopts the Euro.
Culture & Events
Party time at Exit Vilnius, one of the citys most hedonistic

clubs, photo by Tomas imkus
Until August 22
Kinas Po vaigdmis (Cinema under the Stars)
The courtyard behind Vilnius Contemporary Arts Centre (see p.19) is screening films outdoors several nights a
week at 22:00 sharp. A welcome relief from the usual diet
of blockbusters, most films are relatively low budget affairs
from Lithuania and abroad. Full listings (in Lithuanian only)
online at www.kinopasaka.lt.
Until September 10, various places
Christopher Summer Festival 2015
Various styles of music including classical, jazz, singing
poetry and pop are performed during one of the citys
best-loved festivals. Find out more at www.kristupofestivaliai.lt.
Until September 6, Vilnius University Botanical Gardens
Kairn Vasaros Festivalis 2015 (Kairnai Summer
Festival 2015)
A series of ten concerts, featuring a range of music from
jazz to contemporary, are being held in the rather splendid out-of-town setting of the botanical gardens. Tickets at
www.bilietai.lt.
August 23
Velomarathon Vilnius 2015
For the sixth year in a row the streets of the Lithuanian capital close to petrol-driven traffic to make way for this series
of bicycle races for all. Organised to promote ecology, the
family, health and traffic safety, the event is the largest of
its kind in the region and just gets bigger every year. The
excellent website at www.velomaratonas.lt has all the information you need in English including registration details
for anyone wishing to take part.
www.inyourpocket.com
August 28-30, Didioji Zaraso Lake island, Zarasai

(150 km from Vilnius)
Mnuo Juodaragis
How about this for something a little different: a paganstyle frolic to mark the end of summer, complete with live
post-folk and other alternative music, films, arts and crafts,
and beer. See the festival website at www.mjr.lt for more.
September 12-13, Kaln Park
Lituanika Rock Festival
A transformative experience for those who remember this
music festival in 1985-1988, there are now plans to resurrect
the rock beast 30 years on. Details were sketchy at the time
of going to press, but its likely to take place in Kaln Park and
may even see reunions for local alternative bands Foje, Bix
and Antis, who got a kick-start at the original festival.
September 13
Danske Bank Vilnius Marathon 2015
Now in its 12th year, the annual Vilnius Marathon takes
place again this September along a route that takes in the
Old Town and which starts and finishes in Cathedral Square.
There is also a half-marathon and a 4.2km family fun. Full
information in English at www.vilniausmaratonas.lt.
September 26, Vingio Parkas
Vilnius Fireworks 2015
The biggest firework display of the year always spectacular and featuring masters of the firework arts from all over
Europe takes place at Vingio Parkas (see p.71). More information at www.fejerija.lt.
September 24-October 4
Sirenos
The capitals annual International Theatre Festival is back
again. Taking place at more than one venue, all the information necessary to find out whats going on can be found
online at www.sirenos.lt.
15
Culture & Events

concerts
August 18, Piano.lt Summer Terrace
GM live: Mighty Mo Rodgers with Baba Sissoko
www.bilietai.lt
August 20, Loftas
Dave R Stewart
www.bilietupasaulis.lt
September 11, Forum Palace, Galaxy
Machine Head
www.bilietai.lt
October 2, Forum Palace, Galaxy
Deval Premal & Miten with Manose
www.bilietai.lt
Kamelot: World Tour 2015 + guests
www.bilietai.lt
Photo by Augustas Didgalvis. Gaida Festival (see below)
October 15-18
Vilnius Jazz 2015
The 28th Vilnius Jazz festival hits town again in October
for four days of contemporary and experimental jazz concerts and related activities. Founded during the early days
of perestroika, the festival has grown into one of the most
highly regarded cultural events of the year in the country,
although the experts still maintain that Kaunas international jazz festival is better. Have a look at its website at www.
vilniusjazz.lt and judge for yourself.
October 22-31
Gaida 2015
One of the highlights of Vilnius cultural calendar is this annual contemporary music festival. Taking place in several
locations around the city, the festival was still in the process
of being organised at the time of going to press, so little
information was available. The website at www.vilniusfestivals.lt has a link to the festival in English, which contains
some useful and helpful information.
November 20-23
Vilnius Mama Jazz 2015
Simonas ipaviius (sax), photo by

Dainius Labutis
Vilnius Mama Jazz has

been going for several
years now and offers
perhaps the widest
spectrum of jazz of any
festival of the genre in
Lithuania. Keep an eye
on www.vilniusmamajazz.lt for details of who
is performing.

Stratovarius: Eternal World Tour 2015 + guests
www.bilietai.lt
October 9, Piano.lt Concert Hall
Emma Hamilton
www.bilietai.lt
October 29, Vilnius Congress Hall
London Sinfonietta
www.bilietupasaulis.lt
November 1, Forum Palace, Galaxy
Moonspell: Road to Extinction Tour 2015
www.bilietai.lt
November 12, Siemens Arena
Sepultura: 30 Years
www.tiketa.lt
October 28, Congress concert hall
Legendary Georgian Ensemble SALKHINO
www.bilietai.lt
November 13, Pramog arena
Mumiy Troll
www.bilietai.lt
Whats going on?

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inyourpocket
Culture & Events

Not surprisingly for a capital city theres a lot of culture
to be had in Vilnius including some cracking classical
music, a bit of worthy contemporary art and the occasional faded Western rock star. Going to concerts and
festivals in and around the city is a relatively inexpensive
affair, with concert tickets often costing less than 15.
Standards tend to be high and the variety of events taking place is getting bigger every year. For information
on purchasing tickets, ask your hotel reception or speak
to the nice people at Vilnius Tourist Information. Read
about more events and buy tickets online at the excellent www.bilietai.lt.
Arts & Crafts

Amat Gildija
The ceramic artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic
stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists.
Feel free to have a look around. Most of the work on display is for sale.QB-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 05
20, www.amatugildija.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Sun. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. J
Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio
A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a combination of
traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very
unique mind. The studio is now also home to Bugailikis
daughter, the painter Aist Bugailikyt-Kapoien.QC-5,
Auros Vart 17-10, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. By appointment only. J
Meno Nia
Art to hang on your body as opposed to your wall, this
combined gallery and workshop presents some of the
best examples of the work of Lithuanian goldsmiths.QA3, J. Basanaviiaus 1/13, tel. (+370) 5 231 38 11, www.
menonisa.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
The Old Crafts Workshops of The Fine

Crafts Association of Vilnius (Vilniaus
Dailij Amat Asociacijos Senj Amat
Dirbtuvs) An extraordinary organisation dedicated
to both preserving and promoting a wide range of traditional fine crafts including practictioners such as jewellers,
ceramicists, book-binders and leather workers. Operating out of studios and workshops spread around the city
centre, the nice people who run the organisation arrange
a fascinating array of things for visitors to see and do including lectures, tours, hands-on workshops and even a
few events for children. Visiting is a good opportunity to
buy some unique and special gifts and souvenirs. Their
website has good information in English.QC-4, Saviiaus
10, tel. (+370) 5 212 51 69, www.seniejiamatai.lt. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. JA
Uupio Galerija
A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive jewellery from a range of
Lithuanian artists. A combined workshop and gallery, youll
usually find somebody working there, wholl be only too
pleased to explain what theyre up to.QD-3, Uupio 3-1,
tel. (+370) 682 399 46, www.uzupioartgallery.com. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Uupio Kalvysts Galerija - Muziejus
A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique
gift or souvenir or ask about their regular workshops.QX-3,
Uupio 26, tel. (+370) 5 215 37 57, www.vilniauskalviai.
lt. Open 13:00 - 18:30 Mon, 10:30 - 18:30 Tue, Wed, Thu,
Fri Closed Sat, Sun (till September 31). Open 10:30 18:30 Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, 10:30 - 16:00 Sat, Closed Mon,
Sun (October - May). J
Molio Laum
The ancient art of black ceramics brought to life inside
this intriguing little hands-on gallery. Buy examples of the
craft or attend one of their regular workshops.QA-4/5,
Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699 424 56, www.ceramics.
w3.lt. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Tautodailininko Dirbtuv
Folk artist Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day
and creates some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel
and piece of paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian
as karpiniai, this old craft, which has been used to decorate
homes during special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or with patience and a steady hand you can
learn how to do it yourself.QG-4, J. Basanaviiaus 29, tel.
(+370) 687 906 50, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Open 17:00
- 20:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun call in advance. J
Trees in Vilnius wrap up for the winter
17
Culture & Events

Cinemas
Concert halls
Films are usually shown in their original language with

Lithuanian subtitles. Animated films are usually dubbed.
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy

(Lietuvos Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija)
The place to come and see performances by the cream of
the countrys next generation of professional musicians.
Concerts including established performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also take place here from
time to time.QG-3, Gedimino 42, tel. (+370) 5 261 26 91,
www.lmta.lt. J
Forum Cinemas Vingis

Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Theres also a small new hall
screening arthouse and foreign-language films.QG-4,
Savanori 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Box office
open 10:30 - 22:00. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). JA
Multikino
Hollywood blockbusters inside a large shopping centre.
QH-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78, www.
multikino.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Pasaka
A compact Old Town cinema specialising in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films from a wide range of
directors including Woody Allen and the interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskait.QB-3, v. Ignoto 4/3,
tel. (+370) 5 261 15 16, www.kinopasaka.lt. Box office
open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:30. Also an hour
before the event. JW
Skalvija
The best place in the city for arthouse and underground
cinema and meeting people who like it in the attached
caf-bar.QH-3, A. Gotauto 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 05,
www.skalvija.lt. Box office open an hour before the
event. JW
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos Nacionalin Filharmonija) Featuring

a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithuanian
National Symphony Orchestra was established in 1940.
Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles including the aforementioned orchestra as well as the iurlionis
String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana to name but a few.QC-5, Auros Vart 5, tel. (+370)
5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu. Box office
open 10:00 - 13:30, 14:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00.
Closed July 1 - August 20. JA
Piano.lt
Hidden away down an Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts of many types including classical and jazz.QB-4, Trak 9/1 (entrance on Kdaini), tel.
(+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. J
Pramog Arena
A large ice-skating rink on the outskirts of the city that
also hosts the occasional concert.QE-2, uolyno 9, tel.
(+370) 5 242 44 44, www.pramoguarena.lt. Box office
open 14:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Siemens Arena
The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything
from international basketball matches to big name rock
concerts.QH-1, Ozo 14, tel. 1588/(+370) 5 247 75 50,
www.siemensarena.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 18:00.
Fri, Sat, Sun open two hours before the event. A
St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos
Banyia) A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted 18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied and often very good indeed.QB-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, kotrynosbaznycia@
gmail.com, www.kultura.lt. J
Teatro Arena
The main venue for the OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the edge of town is also a concert
venue among other things.QI-3, Olimpiei 3, tel. (+370)
683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. J
Newlyweds keep their love locked on Uupis Bridge
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai) Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything from serious classical convilnius.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events

certs to shows for children.QB-1, Vilniaus 6/16, tel. (+370)
5 261 88 28, www.lvso.lt. Box office open 12:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Cultural centres
Jono Meko Vizualij Men Centras (Jonas Mekas Visual Arts Center) Legendary
filmmaker Jonas Mekas, famous for documenting the New
York arts scene of the 60s and 70s and friend of Lennon,
Ono and Warhol, gave his name to this avant-garde and
contemporary arts space in his native Lithuania. Part of the
absurdist Fluxus collection can be seen but expect mainly
nascent local artists and little by Mekas himself. Location
may change soon, check mekas.lt.QG-3, Gynj 14, tel.
(+370) 671 084 49, info@mekas.lt, www.mekas.lt. Open
12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
The American Center (Amerikos Centras)
The American Center provides a variety of books, DVDs
and other resources on politics, economics, business, entrepreneurship, innovation, American history, literature
and culture. It organises regular film evenings, presentations by lecturers from the US and Lithuania, as well as
other educational and cultural activities. The American
Center is located at the US Embassy in Vilnius.QG-4,
Akmen 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 54 02, WebEmailVilnius@
state.gov, www.vilnius.usembassy.gov/irc.html. Open
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JUW
Galleries
Academy (Akademija)
The gallery of the Vilnius Art Academy hosts all manner
of contemporary shows by artists from home and abroad
and is always worth a look inside.QC-3, Pilies 44/2, tel.
(+370) 5 261 20 94, www.vda.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun. J
Contemporary Art Centre (iuolaikinio
Meno Centras) Vilnius very own monstrous carbuncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete
masterpiece conceals one of the countrys leading galleries for both Lithuanian and international contemporary
art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space,
the Contemporary Art Centre also organises conferences
and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a
rather good bar.QC-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,
www.cac.lt. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission
2.32/1.16. JU
TaDas
The weird and occasionally wonderful world of the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media. Bordering
on the nave and childlike, Gutauskas work is colourful to
say the least and all of it is for sale.QB-0, Kalvarij 1, tel.
(+370) 685 555 25, www.gutauskai.lt. Open by appointment only. J
Fun and quirky art can spill outdoors in Vilnius
Terra Recognita
An interesting gallery representing the work of the contemporary and conceptual Lithuanian artist Saulius
Vaitieknas. Much of his work is both fun and thought
provoking and is generally available for sale.QC-3, Stikli
7, tel. (+370) 612 444 79/(+370) 5 231 39 07, www.
terrarecognita.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00. J
Titanikas
A series of exhibition halls owned and curated by the
neighbouring Vilnius Art Academy, exhibitions run the
gamut from student shows to serious work from home
and abroad in just about every conceivable medium.QD2, Maironio 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 36, www.vda.lt. Open
12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Uupio Meno Inkubatorius (Uupis Art
Incubator) A tumbledown house on the riverbank,
brightly painted and with a few works in the garden, this
is Uupis unofficial Ministry of Culture as well as a lively
gallery space, workshop and the only place in the city to
buy official Uupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local
artwork, a copy of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works from a wide range of contributors
including established local artists, school children and the
occasional American professor of mathematics. Follow the
riverbank north from Uupio Kavin.QD-3, Uupio 2, tel.
(+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
19
Culture & Events

Theatres
Arts Printing House (Men Spaustuv)
Housed inside a former tsarist-era printing house this
intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to
collect and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various
performers. Check the website for a full list of their activities.QD-2, iltadario 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.
menuspaustuve.lt. J
Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras)
The brainchild of a small collective of like-minded local
thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts on shows inside
a cinema.QG-4, Savanori 7 (Forum Cinemas Vingis),
tel. (+370) 656 863 83, www.dominoteatras.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00.
Music in the streets
Vartai
Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises
exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended.QB-3,
Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytoj Namai), tel. (+370) 5 212
29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Znad Wilii
Lovely Polish art gallery displaying and selling paintings,
books and the Polish-language newspaper of the same
name.QD-3, Iganytojo 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20, www.
znadwiliiwilno.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00. J
Opera & Ballet

Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet
Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Operos ir
Baleto Teatras) A stunning construction opened
in 1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a
look inside even if you dont plan on attending anything.
QA-1, A. Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.
opera.lt. Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
Photography
Prospekto Galerija
Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers Union,
Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth
the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let down partially by the artists
themselves who submit badly presented work thats often lit with no thought to the work. Theres also a small
shop where you can buy books and postcards featuring
the work of many famous and obscure Lithuanian art,
news and documentary photographers past and present.QG-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 38, www.
photography.lt. Open 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. J
Gytis Ivanauskas Theatre

The brainchild of the still relatively young dancer, actor
and choreographer Gytis Ivanauskas, this interesting experimental company are worth looking out for. Currently
theyre without a home but perform regularly around the
city.Qinfo@giteatras.lt, www.giteatras.lt.
Ll Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras
Ll) This inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages
has been charming audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in 1958.QC-4, Arkli 5, tel.
(+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele.lt. Box office open
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre
(Lietuvos Nacionalinis Dramos Teatras)
Pretty much what it says it is, the Lithuanian National
Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home and abroad
and stages it in two venues inside the same building.
Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance.
QB-2, Gedimino 4, tel. (+370) 618 757 80, www.teatras.
lt. Box office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00. Closed
Sat, Sun (June 1 - August 31). Open 10:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00 (September 1 May 31). J
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre
(Lietuvos Rus Dramos Teatras) The only
professional theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian language, this fine old building also
hosts other events including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz
Festival.QH-4, J. Basanaviiaus 13, tel. (+370) 5 262 05
52, www.rusudrama.lt. Box office open 10:45 - 18:30,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis
Jaunimo Teatras) Founded in 1966 the National
Youth Theatre stages works of all kinds from the classics to experimental to innovative reworkings of original
stories.QC-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.
jaunimoteatras.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 14:30 18:00. Closed Mon. Closed June 15 - August 20. JA
Culture & Events

Opera & Ballet
SEPTEMBER
Opera
18
18:30
19
18:30
24
18:30
26
18:30
Ballet
2
18:30
23
18:30
25
18:30
30
18:30
For Children
27
OCTOBER
Opera
3
8
10
17
21
23
30
Operetta
1
15
28
Ballet
2
12:00
Manon J. Massenet.
Manon J. Massenet.
Alexanders Fiest G. F. Handel.
Manon J. Massenet.
Barbora Radvilait
S. Vaininas, A. Malcys, H. M.
Grecki and other composers.
La Bayadre L. A. Minkus.
Bolero G. F. Handel, A. Vivaldi,
W. A. Mozart, E. Satie.
Carmen ballet G. Bizet.
Snow White and the Seven
Dwarfs B. Pawlowski.
18:30
18:30
18:30
18:30
18:30
18:30
18:30
La Traviata G. Verdi
Cornet O. Narbutait
Fidelio Ludwig van Beethoven
Manon J. Massenet.
Carmen G. Bizet.
Alexanders Fiest G. F. Handel.
Eugene Onegin P. Tchaikovsky
18:30
18:30
18:30
Die Fledermaus J. Strauss

Die Lustige Witwe F. Lehar
Wiener Blut J. Strauss
18:30
Coppelia L. Delibes.
Barbora Radvilait
Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky.
Bolero G. F. Handel, A. Vivaldi,
W. A. Mozart, E. Satie.
La Bayadre L. A. Minkus.
Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky,
G. Bizet, A. Adam, A. Schnittke.
iurlionis G. Kupreviius.
Barbora Radvilait
18:30
18:30
14
18:30
16
18:30
22
18:30
24
29
18:30
18:30
31
18:30
For Children
11
12:00
18
12:00
Cipollino K. Khachaturian.
Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
25
12:00
Snow White and the Seven

Dwarfs B. Pawlowski.
NOVEMBER
Opera
26
18:30
28
Ballet
4
6
18:30
18:30
20
18:30
21
18:30
27
18:30
18:30
18:30
Der Fliegende Hollnder R.

Wagner.
Cornet O. Narbutait.
Giselle A. Adam.
Barbora Radvilait
Egl the Queen of Grass
Snakes E. Balsys.
Egl the Queen of Grass
Snakes E. Balsys.
Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky,
G. Bizet, A. Adam, A. Schnittke.
The Nutcracker P. Tchaikovsky.
29
18:30
For Children
8
12:00
Cinderella S. Prokofjev.
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National
Opera and Ballet Theatre (see left below). More info
at www.opera.lt
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus
Miesto Teatras) Dedicated to modern theatre and
modern interpretations of the classics. See their website
for when and where theyre performing.QB-4, Amenos
8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99, www.okt.lt. J
Teatras Meno Fortas
An Old Town theatre given over entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian theatrical director Eimuntas Nekroius. Works include everything from
Shakespeare to original works.QD-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel.
(+370) 5 231 21 10, www.menofortas.lt. J
Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus
Senamiesio Teatras) Founded during the final
days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre
specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the
16th and 17th centuries. A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370)
687 916 61, www.senamiescioteatras.lt.
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis
Vilniaus Maasis Teatras) Only finding a permanent home in 2005, this interesting theatre company
who stage a wide range of predominantly contemporary
works are based inside a glorious building in the city centre. Worth a look around even if youre not attending a
performance.QA-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5 249 98 69,
www.vmt.lt. Box office open 11:00 - 15:00, 16:00 - 18:30,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
21
Where to eat
With the exception of a handful of amusing and/or appalling disasters, eating out in Vilnius is both excellent and
relatively affordable for all. The citys restaurants and cafs
literally cater to taste buds of every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates of potato-based local specialities to
a surprisingly wide and generally palatable concoction of
dishes from the kitchens of such far away places as India and
Brazil. Although the bulk of restaurants worth visiting can
be found within the city centre, the suburbs also offer a few
treats, which we list when we feel they deserve it. Tipping, if
deserved, is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding
up of the bill both being acceptable.
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in
Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes
and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old
barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best
described as a restaurant or caf serving predominantly but
not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you
wont find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than
insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of
Vilnius and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we
choose to list both types of restaurant together.
Forest
Traditional with a twist, Forest is one of those places which
is determined to prove that Lithuanian cuisine can be pro22 Vilnius In Your Pocket
gressive. Simple yet innovative, expect superb grilled meats

and some of the best salads in the city alongside specials
such as gnocchi and pacheri. Its all prepared fresh on the
premises using the finest seasonal ingredients, and is served
in a bright, contemporary setting. Well worth your time and
money.QB-4, Vokiei 8, tel. (+370) 698 167 28. Open
11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. Also at Savanori 1. 7. PTJAUBSW
Forto Dvaras
This perfectly located restaurant on the busiest street in Old
Town provides consistently good food at affordable prices.
Complete with colour photographs to help you choose, the
menu is packed with classic dishes including the marvellous
kepta duona, a good choice when waiting for a main dish, soup
served in a loaf of bread and some simple but recommended
desserts. We recently had the borsch with meat followed by
some truly outstanding potato pancakes with bacon and
mushroom sauce of which both can also be ordered for vegetarians. The service is friendly and efficient.QC-2, Pilies 16, tel.
(+370) 656 136 88, www.fortodvaras.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
5. TJABSW
Lokys
One of Vilnius best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear)
opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in
1972 in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating
back to the late 15th century and has been serving socalled traditional hunters dishes amidst a slightly tonguein-cheek backdrop ever since. The limited menu focuses
Where to eat
on unusual dishes including quail, venison and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep everybody
happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you can
rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience.QC-4, Stikli 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.
lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. 13. PTJABSW
Mykolo 4
Holy Mikos has changed its name to Restoranas-Bistro
Mykolo 4, and it is not just the name which is changed either. Having become known as a restaurant which served
a bit of everything, the place now concentrates on developing and showcasing Lithuanian cuisine (although the
wine list, thankfully, remains an international one). Seasonal,
fresh, local ingredients are used, and the menu changes
regularly.QC-3, v. Mykolo 4, tel. (+370) 688 222 10, www.
mykolo4.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 10. PTJABSW
Senoji Trobel
This intimate, folk-themed restaurant is unquestionably
one of the best examples of its kind in the country. We like
the place, especially on a sunny day when its possible to
eat and drink on their fine terrace. The food is classic unpretentious local cuisine, tastes good and is equally superb
value for money. If youd like to take a little piece of the
place home (and believe us, you will), their unique crockery is available for sale.QG-5, Naugarduko 36, tel. (+370)
609 990 02, www.senojitrobele.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 9. TAULBSW
23
Where to eat
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking
6 Pet-friendly
X Smoking place
J Old town location
E Live music
S Take away
I Fireplace
W Wi-Fi
B Outside seating
V Home delivery
Bison
NEW
7 Elephants
This dark but sumptuous little space with shaded summer
terrace was wasted for too many years as a dodgy bar.
Now its had a complete reversal of fortune as a gourmet
pub. Elephants are not on the menu. Bison are. The gentle
hairy beasts live on a farm near the town of Kelm, until
they become delicious carpaccio, toothsome tartare, get
roasted with gravy or stuffed into fat bison burgers with
bacon and salad and served with homemade fries, as ours
was. The caramelised bison comes with lots of leaves and
balsamic pearls, beautifully presented. Plentiful beers and
wines, whiskies and rums wash that bison down.QA-00,
Konstitucijos pr. 12, tel. (+370) 600 507 77. Open 11:00
- 23:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 10.
PTJA6LVEBSW
iop iop
Just eaten some traditional Lithuanian food and wondered how it was made? The pink allure of chilled
altibariai has you in its clutches but you cant
imagine how the stuff is produced? Recipe books
are all well and good up to a point, but you cant
beat expert knowledge from an experienced chef in
the heat of a real kitchen. Enter iop iop, a company
specialising in teaching modern Lithuanian cuisine in
several languages and using local produce. Recipes
are diverse and feature everything from caramelised
beetroot to glazed duck with wild berry sauce, sour
cream with thyme and hazelnuts to kastinys. Courses
run from between two and four hours depending
on how many dishes you want to learn about and
subsequently cook and either take place on iop
iops premises or they can come to you. Check
out their website and give them a call for more information.QC-1, vej 2, tel. (+370) 663 666 67,
skanu@ciopciop.lt, www.ciopciop.lt. Open 10:00.
PTJA6EBW
Using any means of transport to find a good restaurant
Brazilian
Grill Brazil
A marvellous restaurant specialising in churrasco and espeto corrido cuisine, which for the uninitiated is a Brazilian
buffet extravaganza wherein diners help themselves to
endless portions of salad and other dishes whilst a procession of waiters do the rounds armed with large skewers loaded with grilled meat which is cut at the table and
dropped onto the plate. Unquestionably one of the best
restaurants in the country, theres also an accompanying
set menu for the less adventurous.QF/G-2, Saltoniki 9
(Panorama), tel. (+370) 671 886 65, www.grillbrazil.lt.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. 8. AW
Buffet LUX
Poni Laim
A combined patisserie and buffet restaurant with a distinctly feminine feel to the place, this is eating in a hurry
at its best. The selection of ready-to-eat food may not be
the largest in town, but the dishes are imaginative, taste
superb and are, considering the location, excellent value
for money. Just make sure youve got some cash on you,
as they still dont take credit cards.QC-3, Stikli 14/1,
tel. (+370) 5 264 95 81. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 4. PTJBS
Where to eat
bakeries
Chaapuri
A small bakery with a handful of tables offering mostly
takeaway Georgian breads of various kinds, generally baked to order and consequently often taking a
while to arrive. Not advisable for those in a hurry, but
outstandingly recommended for those who arent.
Theres usually somebody there who speaks English
to help decode the mysteries of Georgian baking. Recommended is the dish after which the place is named,
chaapuri, aka khachapuri, a smashing little bread buntype thing filled with cheese.QB-6, Sod 9, tel. (+370)
5 240 58 51, www.khachapuri.lt. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. JAS
Cantonese
Yum Cha
The first Cantonese restaurant ever to open in Lithuania
can compare favourably to any in Europe, with authentic
cuisine created by an experienced chef. Situated a little way
up a street opposite the National Philharmonic, the dcor
is dark and well-groomed with a monochrome painting of
old Canton covering one wall. We enjoyed several refills of
thick pu-erh tea, prawn wonton soup and four heavenly
pieces of mixed-seafood dim sum, along with impeccable
service.QC/D-5, Subaiaus 6a, tel. (+370) 5 213 89 88.
Open 15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon
(June 1 - August 31). Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon
(from September 1). 5. PTJA6SBW
Gatvs kepjai
Lithuanias supermarket chains have come a long way
in recent years when it comes to bread and pastries,
but its still hard to find the perfect loaf. Hats off then
to this Old Town oasis in the desert, which has an Italian chef behind the scenes and uses only Italian products, even the flour. Whereas the supermarkets get the
recipes right but skimp on the materials (wrong flour,
cheap fat, etc.), this tiny bakery knows how to create a
crusty loaf. One or two dishes like lasagne and salads
are also on offer and, most recently, deliciously authentic pizzas.QC-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 677
764 64. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 19:30. Closed
Sun. PJA6SW
Thierry Kepykla
Currently making waves as the best place in town
for croissants and coffee for breakfast and now
boasting a lot more space with a grand total of nine
tables, any half-way decent addition to the generally grim selection of bakeries in Vilnius is more than
welcome. A bit out of the way at the top of a steep
Uupis hill, by all accounts the walk is worth the effort. QX-3, Uupio 19, tel. (+370) 676 608 89. Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Also at Pilies 4, Vilniaus 45, vitrigailos 29, Jasinskio 16a. JASW
25
Where to eat
Fine dining
Imperial by California Gourmet
The five-star Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius flagship
gourmet restaurant offers the ultimate in dining, from
the sophisticated dcor through to the mouth-watering
food. Billed as the first gourmet restaurant in Lithuania,
the food here is taken very seriously indeed and gets
most of its inspiration from the melting pot of cuisines
coming out of the United States. The menu is impressive and includes a wealth of classy dishes from a much
talked-about Caesar salad to fresh lobster and foie gras.
QC-5, Subaiaus 2 (Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius),
tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, www.californiagourmet.lt.
Open 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. 30. PTJAUBSW
La Provence
Deliciously expensive for a reason, La Provence has been
packing them in since it first opened its doors way back in
2001. Exclusive, theatrical and a magnet for all manner of
well-heeled VIPs, these people understand flavour like few
others, infusing it into a wide range of dishes from octopus
salad through seasonal seafood to a classic tiramisu made on
the premises. Although meat and fish dominate, there are a
couple of vegetarian main courses on offer to keep everyone satisfied. The wine menu is both perfectly thought out
and frightfully ostentatious. Do yourself a favour and learn
the exchange rate before ordering some of the four-figure
bottles of champagne. Recommended.QB-4, Vokiei 22,
tel. (+370) 686 047 08, www.laprovence.lt. Open 18:00 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 25. PTJAEBS
Where to eat
Stikliai
A small but magnificent menu of wonderful dishes
featuring such classic favourites as black truffles and a
proper sorbet, all served from soup to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings. Whereas
most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one is
more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties
might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with
style who know a good thing when they see it and who
like to impress might like to book a table.QC-3, Gaono
7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 264 95 80, www.stikliai.
com. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. Sat 12:00 23:30. Closed Sun. 29. PTJAUBW
Telegrafas
One of the top five restaurants in all of Lithuania, perhaps
even the entire Baltics. A superb menu - which changes frequently - boasts a wide selection of both meat and fish (often with a local twist), while treats such as the Lobster Thermidor and the tiger prawns underline the fact that they will
pull out all the stops to be the very best. The dining room
itself is smart yet never stuffy, and the wine list is a sensation:
whats more there is wine for all pockets. Overall of course a
meal here will cost a small fortune, but you will nevertheless
leave feeling that you have had full value for money. QC-2,
Universiteto 14 (Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square), tel.
(+370) 5 220 16 00, www.kempinski.com/vilnius. Open
18:30 - 22:30. Breakfast menu served 07:00 - 10:30, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 11:30. Business lunch served Mon - Fri 12:00 15:00. 23. PTJAUW
Fish
turm vyturys
Something fishy is going on in the self-proclaimed republic
of Uupis. Every day, fish caught just hours ago in the Baltic
Sea or the Curonian Lagoon is taken to a fishmongers on
Uupio Street, and much of that comes up the lane to be
put on display on ice in this wonderful little restaurant. In
super-fresh and inventive dishes that change every day,
seasonal fish are matched with seasonal ingredients - panfried pike-perch cheeks with caramelized apple pieces,
spinach and basil, for example - and washed down with
fine Riesling. There are no kid-friendly dishes, though, and
children aged under 12 are not allowed. Oars, spears and
weather vanes add to dcor that fondly pays tribute to the
Lithuanian and Prussian fisherfolk of old, and the restaurant
owners are full of salty sea stories.QI-4, Uupio 30, tel.
(370) 656 980 00, www.sturmusvyturys.lt. Open 12:00
- 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Closed August 4 - 24. 15.
JABW
uvin
From the same stable as the people with the same name
in Palanga, this classy little number serves a select range
of predominantly locally caught fish accompanied with all
manner of fancy additions. The style is very much upscale,
the food is impressive and the location inside the historical Town Hall is more or less unbeatable.QC-4, Didioji
31, tel. (+370) 682 191 72, www.zuvine.lt. Open 11:00
- 24:00. 19. PTJABSW
27
Where to eat
French
Balzac
Still impressively busy most times we walk past, our last outing
to Balzac was as good as the previous one, if not better. Chef
Christian Mathis has worked in top restaurants around the
world including three Michelin-starred restaurants in France
and Germany. The staff remain friendly and helpful and the
food, if not exactly like the stuff made from fresh local ingredients youd expect from a roadside restaurant in the suburbs of
Bordeaux, is more than good enough to keep visiting French
visitors more than happy. Recommended is the classic onion
soup followed by a hotchpotch of small dishes to share with
friends. Note that the kitchen closes 1 hour before they lock
the doors.QC-4, Saviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23, www.
balzac.lt. Open 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 11. PTJA6BSW
Caf Montmartre
Brushing aside the name, this otherwise unpretentious
small restaurant on a spookily French-feeling corner of
Old Town came up trumps when we needed a croquemonsieur in a hurry and of the kind youll find in Paris for
the same price. With a menu of other similar snacks as
well as larger dishes both from France and Italy, if everythings as good as the aforementioned toasted slice
of magnificence then this is definitely one to keep an
eye out for.QC-4/5, Didioji 40, tel. (+370) 612 892 69.
Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 9. JA6BSW
La Moutarde
Declaring itself cuisine bistronomique sounds fancy, but
food that really doesnt taste much different to cuisine
lituanienne coupled with an unremarkable interior on
an out-of-the-way Old Town street does not make a fine
French restaurant. Maybe we just chose the wrong dishes. Having said that, the delicious crunchy caramel lemon pie almost made up for the loss.QB-2, Totori 22, tel.
(+370) 525 073 24. Open 11:00 - 23:00. A6SW
March de Provence
This now well established Old Town restaurant specialises in not only the cuisine after which the place is
named but also serves dishes from a number of other
European culinary destinations. The regularly changing
bill of fare is positively packed with good things including at the time of going to press sea snails, a great gazpacho and main dishes including venison, oven baked
lamb and duck with orange. Theres also some super
desserts and an excellent wine list to compliment everything. Their shop in the same building offers a range
of quality food from home and abroad.QC-3, Pilies 27,
tel. (+370) 686 777 07, www.marchedeprovence.lt.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 22:30. 22.
PJABSW
Saint Germain
Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and
further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating
during the summer, Saint Germain is one of the citys
Where to eat
best French restaurants. Often full of smart locals and inthe-know visitors looking for superior flavours, the atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and the wine
list equally admirable. Whats more, the excellent food
(we loved the grilled scallops with asparagus) is more
than affordable. Thoroughly recommended.QC/D-3,
Literat 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 10, www.saintgermain.
lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00. Last kitchen order 22:30, Sun
22:00. 17. JABSW
Fun
Ren
Les moules are a big reason to visit Ren on Tuesdays
or Thursdays, when the fresh (never frozen) mussels
are shipped in and served in nine different ways - in
cognac, white wine, oven-roasted with pine nuts and
almonds Its easy to go nuts over Ren, which is
named after monsieur Magritte. The artists visions
adorn the walls and there are absurdist touches like
cutlery tied with rubber-bands, pencils for sketching
on the paper-covered tables, and a black umbrella permanently by the door. To dramatic orchestral soundscapes, waitresses in bowler hats serve spicy or sweet
rum-marinated pork ribs and a hearty Carcassonne
casserole. But book ahead on moules nights.Q C-4, M.
Antokolskio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 68 58. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 21:00. 9. PTA6UBS
Uupio Kavin
This place is the headquarters of the organisation behind
the Republic of Uupis, the tiny breakaway republic on the
left bank of the Vilnia. Like Uupis itself this venue attracts
a mix of offbeat and curious types, as well as artists and
musicians. The food and drink on offer is good, not least
the Irish lamb soup (unlikely to be found on any other
menu in Vilnius). The milkshakes are probably Republic of
Uupis finest exports, and the summertime terrace above
the river is unbeatable.QD-3, Uupio 2, tel. (+370) 5 212
21 38, www.uzupiokavine.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00. 7.
TJA6BSW
Fast Food
McDonalds
Often full to overflowing with lovestruck Lithuanian
teenagers, middle-aged English staggers dressed as
rabbits and the inevitable huddle of people whod
never be seen dead in the place but that can often
be found there, everything in this city centre branch
tastes like it does in every other McDonalds on the
planet.QA-1, Gedimino 15, tel. (+370) 685 421 78,
www.mcd.lt. Open 07:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00
- 05:00, Sun 07:00 - 01:00 (main restaurant). Open
00:00 - 05:00, 06:00 - 00:00 (small window). Also
at Sein 3, Kareivi 13, Ukmergs 173, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). 4. PTJABSW
Subway
Subway arrives in Vilnius, and its a welcome addition too. Expect much the same as any other Subway around the world: huge great sandwiches made
with whichever bread and ingredients you like, all
put together by the friendly young staff. An instant
hit, its not difficult to see why.QB/C-4, Vokiei 7,
tel. (+370) 5 212 35 56. Open 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 05:00. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), Rodnios
kelias 2 (Vilnius International Airport). 2.19.
PJA6USW
View from the sacred Gates of Dawn
29
Where to eat
Fusion
Coco Restobar
Techno-lite gets the feet tapping at this merry but genteel neon-lit nightspot, where nearly 60 different cocktails
can be enjoyed alongside a cracking menu of dishes with
a distinctive Asian twist. Match the delicious cheesecake
or apple pie with a warming A-52 - a generous shot of
cream liqueurs and absinthe set alight and sucked down
in one through a straw.QB-2, Labdari 8, tel. (+370)
5 212 29 09. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri
11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 5.
PJA6BSW
Street Food
Open Kitchen Vilnius
Now here is something a bit different and very welcome: a genuine festival of street food at the Tymo
Turgus in Uupis. Open every Friday until October this
commendable initiative brings fine food from more
than 30 top restaurants, bistros, pubs, farmers and independent chefs direct to the streets of Vilnius. Note
that in the case of rain the Open Kitchen will not be
held.QD-4, Auktaii/Maironio (Tymo Market),
tel. (+370) 694 606 66, www.openkitchen.lt. Open
11:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun.
4. JEB
Gastrobars
La Buffet
For a touch of exclusivity to your evening, splash
out on a 50-a-head six-course menu prepared by
the owner himself, to be matched with fine wine. A
single word hints at each dish on the cryptic menu;
he personally explains the rest. No more than 18
people can fit in this elegant sliver of space, so booking ahead is essential even if its just half-an-hour
beforehand. Alternatively, arrive on spec to sit in
the smart and sexy bar downstairs with a digestif.QC-3, Pilies 25, tel. (+370) 615 999 09. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Dinners upon reservation on Tue, Wed, Thu.
PJAEBW
German
Bunte Gans
Bunte Gans churns out excellent German cuisine and other
dishes in this Old Town favourite. The imaginative, good
value food on offer includes schnitzels, bratwurst, bangers
and mash, lamb, boar, beef steaks, fresh fish and the house
special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host of
other vegetables. Theres live music during the weekends
and an extensive range of drinks including Riesling, Grauer
Burgunder and the recommended German beer ZollerHof from Schwabia.QC-5, Auros Vart 11, tel. (+370) 5
212 83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 10.
TJAEBSW
Gourmet Burgers
Boom! Burgers
Using Black Angus beef and no frozen or processed foods,
this wafer-thin space sandwiched between KFC and Vero
Caf near the Cathedral is the real deal. Go for a burger
with your choice of quality cheese, or chicken with rosemary and homemade garlic sauce, or a genuine fillet steak
between the buns. The burgers are so delicious its tough
for the courteous, hardworking staff to keep up with de30 Vilnius In Your Pocket
Where to eat
mand. At busy times you may have to wait a while, but our
beef burger with pulled pork and BBQ sauce was worth
the 20 minutes. Theres a veggie option too, plus a good
range of beers, but just one wine.QB/C-2, Gedimino 1,
tel. (+370) 652 145 34, www.boomburgers.lt. Open
11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. 6. PTJASW
Le Butcher
The name of this quiet Old Town lane also means Butchers, and some of the finest burgers in the city are paddied
up here in intriguing ways - super-hot Bolivian, with an
egg, with pulled pork, double paddy with cheese - and
served with chunky potato wedges, red-cabbage coleslaw and a choice of sauces. Le Butchers signature burger
comes with pancetta and onion jam. Ask for the beef
medium-rare and blood red. Le Bitch, somewhat sexist, is
vegetarian, but its cheese, aubergine and sundried tomato
filling would satisfy anyone. Wash it all down with local
beer, a bottle of Chilean wine and plentiful complimentary
water.QH-5, Msini 3, tel. (+370) 5 233 53 86. Open
11:00 - 23:00. 7. PA6BSW
Grill
Panama Food Garden
Take a step away from the bustle of the old town and head
across the river to this excellent restaurant set inside an old
wooden house in the leafy residential district of vrynas.
The pedigree of the owners is good having already created the popular Meat Lovers Pub although in contrast to
that venture this is a little more upmarket with a smart but
relaxed atmosphere. There are two main reasons to jump
in a taxi and pop over here - the food and the garden.
Youll find the changing menu chalked up on a board from
which we chose duck in an onion gravy and a beautifully
prepared tuna, both of which were delicious. The place to
enjoy it is in the peaceful garden, one of the best dining
spaces in the city. Note that the kitchen closes an hour
earlier than the restaurant itself except on Mon, Tue, Wed
when it closes two hours earlier than the restaurant.QF-3,
Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 650 828 29. Open 11:30 - 24:00,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Kitchen works till
22:00 Mon, Tue, Wed, 23:00 Thu, Fri, Sat, 21:00 Sun. 12.
TJA6EBSW
The Smoke House

A high-intensity charcoal oven is employed to give a
mouth-watering taste to ribeye, lamb sausages, tikka
chicken, salmon loin and a super-rich beef-and-foie-gras
burger. A truly seductive secret sticky-finger sauce smothers the chicken wings, a challenge not to get all over your
face, and the tom kha soup is satisfyingly creamy-spicy.
Wash it all down with a tall spritz or indulge in a smoky
rosemary-infused whisky. The dcor is classic American
speakeasy with smooth jazzy tunes and back-in-the-day
food posters.QB-4, Vokiei 18a, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 17.
Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00,
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 10. PJA6BSW
The TOWN contemporary grill & bar
A less expensive yet no less high-quality version of Boff,
brought to you by the same people. Expect fine contemporary dining including one of the best gourmet burgers
Vilnius has to offer and a fine line up of steaks (all local
produce, by the way). There are also a couple of vegetarian options (try the spinach pie) and the desserts are great.
QA-1, Gedimino 26, tel. +370) 5 203 12 28. Open Mon,
Tue, Wed, Thu 8:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 8:00 - 10:00,
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 12. PT
JASW
chinese
Didioji Kinija
Quite frankly there are too many Chinese restaurants in
Vilnius, making decisions difficult considering they all
more or less look the same as each other. If in doubt,
you could do a lot worse than opting for Didioji Kinija,
a long-established favourite in the city with a huge
menu of dishes were slowly going through and that
has yet to disappoint. The vegetable spring rolls are
among the best weve ever eaten and the vegetarian options in general are more or less outstanding. A
consistent winner in a city of losers, were still waiting
to find a fault here and wonder if we ever will. Recommended.QA-00, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263
63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 7. PTAVBSW
31
Where to eat
one of Vilnius poshest streets this might just be the place for
you. Note that the kitchen closes 2 hours before they lock the
doors.QC-3, Stikli 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91, www.bistro18.
lt. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00.
Closed Mon, Sun (August 1 - 31). Open 11:30 - 22 - 00, Fri
11:30 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00 (September 1 - November 30). 15. PTJA6BS
Carr
It may not be inspired by John le Carr, but its interior is
as dark and twisting as a spy thriller. Yet the menu of this
elegant bar & lounge inside the flashy city-centre GO9
shopping mall is no mystery. Super-crispy tiger prawns in
a very lightly spicy sauce are as exotic as the broad international menu gets. Flustered at busy weekday lunchtimes,
by evening its a more inviting cocktail-driven prospect, especially if the outdoor terrace is open.QB-1, Gedimino 9,
tel. (+370) 687 901 59. (August 1 - September 30). Open
11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00
- 22:00 (from October 1). 8. PTJAUBSW
Indian
Sues Indian Raja
The best restaurant in Vilnius continues to impress with
a fabulously pungent menu of dishes, all made from
hand-picked and hand-mixed spices by a crack team of
Indian chefs overseen by the uniquely charming Wing
Commander Rajinder Chaudhary. Our last outing saw us
putting away a mild pork korma and a consistently outstanding and nicely spicy butter chicken after demolishing way too many onion bhajis for our own good. The
service remains excellent, the location is unbeatable and
the bill at the end of it may be a little shocking for local
prices but if you compare it to what youd be expected to
pay for an average Indian on any British high street then
it simply doesnt compare. Magic, and thoroughly recommended.QB-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18 88, www.
suesindianraja.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00.
10. PTJAVBSW
International
Bistro 18
A combined restaurant and wine shop, Bistro 18 specialises primarily in dishes from the world of European seasonal cuisine including French onion soup, risotto, pasta
and scores of meat-heavy dishes such as beef and rabbit.
Theres pudding too, and the aforementioned wine shop
stocks a huge selection of booze. Theres little sympathy
for vegetarians here, but if youre into classy dining on
NEW
Chef2 Food House
Upscale dining spots are being unveiled either side of
Gedimino Avenue, like this genteel little chill-out zone
where two chefs create artistically presented dishes to a
short set menu by day and slightly more expanded a la
carte menu by evening. What it lacks in choice, the play of
textures around, say, veal, chicken or snails make up for in
quality. Our rabbit liver pt came with mandarin pieces,
peeled cherries, spinach, basil and delicate rolls of pickled
carrot, among other things, while the tender beef strips
in the main dish combined with celery mash and pear
cream.QA-1, Jakto 7, tel. (+370) 620 673 06. Open 11:00
- 04:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 12. PJAS
vegetarian
Balti Drambliai
One of the oldest vegetarian restaurants in Vilnius is still
going strong, more than 13 years after first opening its
cellar doors. The menus offer a decent range of veggie
food from around the world, including shiva puri, potato parata, fried eggplant with rice and salad and some
splendid Tibetan dumplings stuffed with paneer. Its all
decent if not special and has the bonus of being relatively cheap. Wash it all down with Ayurvedic teas or a
banana lassi.QB-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08 75.
Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 4. PJAEB
Where to eat
Cozy
Friendly welcomes from bar staff who remember your name
is something of a rarity in Lithuania, making Cozy worth a visit
for that reason alone. If youre only staying for a short while
though theres still plenty of reason to visit from an imaginative menu of pub grub that offers more than one dish for vegetarians (the risotto is a current hit) to the legendary in-house
troika, a sweet-tasting, three-layered cocktail traditionally
drunk by a select handful of regulars who always have a taxi
number ready when its time to wobble out the door. Rotating
exhibitions of artful local contemporary photography always
round everything off very nicely indeed. Recommended..
QC-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37, www.cozy.lt.
Open 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun
10:00 - 02:00. 7. PJA6BSW
Dine
Boasting two very different dining rooms (one dark, one
light) this magic new place is brought to you by the same
team behind the legendary Time. The menu is short yet
beautifully put together and changes daily, so individual
recommendations are pointless. For what its worth, on our
visit we ate a pumpkin soup with goat cheese which tasted
as colourful as it looked, as well as a delicious tagliatelle with
goose meatballs. Whatever is on the menu when you go,
expect tasty, inventive food presented gorgeously but without pretension. Prices are affordable and given the quality,
a bargain. The wine list is a gem.QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel.
(+370) 672 232 72. Open 11:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 23:00. Closed Sun. 19. PTJABSW
Druskos Namai
Now that Salt House has survived the potentially traumatic process of moving to a new location, we can once
again sing its praises, for this really is one of the best restaurants in the land. Everything (or almost everything) is
locally sourced, seasonal, and prepared with some style.
The menu changes daily so individual recommendations
are pointless: rest assured however that should you dine
here you will find plenty which is innovative and extremely tasty. You usually need a reservation at the weekend.QC-4, Saviiaus 6, tel. (+370) 5 215 30 04, www.
druskosnamai.lt. Open 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
13. PTJAW
ice-cream
Soprano
Our last outing here involved entertaining a couple
of under-sevens who demolished so much cake and
ice cream they had to be hosed down before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally good
at any time of year. The ice-cream is made locally to
a traditional Italian recipe.QC-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370)
5 212 60 42, www.soprano.lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
PJABSW
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33
Where to eat
Esse
A bustling restaurant in the city centre, find well-trained
staff ferrying a cavalcade of good-looking international
dishes with a leaning towards European cuisine to a wide
range of clientle from local business professionals to
tourists. Among the favourite fare on offer are the mussels
in a wine and cream sauce, plus theres also over 100 wines
to choose from either from the menu or at unbeatable
prices from the attached shop. For those who cant stand
to be away from the office for too long, also find free wireless internet.QG-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 686 004
88, www.esse.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 10. PTJAEB
SW
Fortas
If youre in the Naujamiestis area, Fortas is the best place to
dine or enjoy a beer or coffee, with amiable uniformed waitresses, comfy interior, unobtrusive lighting and easy-going
atmosphere. National cuisines feature on alternate weeks.
Greece was the star when we dropped by and the Greek
salad was as authentic as youd find in the Baltics. All the
major meats are namechecked on the illustrated menu, and
our squid-and-cod rich seafood stew was delicious. Dishes
are created with precision, leaving little room for good or
bad surprises. Natural juices may include the wonderful
spinach and orange.QH-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011
38, www.fortas.eu. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 6. PTABSW
Kitchen
An angular experience with plenty of creamy shades and
exposed wooden features, this simple offering not only
keeps the dcor to a minimum but also doesnt get carried away with the menu. The recommended dishes on
offer include a recently eaten plate of miniature fishcakes
that despite their laughable size tasted superb. Theres an
extensive wine list too. A good choice for those wanting to
impress without breaking the bank.QC-4, Didioji 11, tel.
(+370) 688 805 58. Open 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun
(July 1 - August 31). 8. PTJA6SW
Eating above the Vilnia at Uupio Kavin
KukuMuku
A little bit of heaven for parents, KukuMuku is a split-level
venue with dining and a kids theatre upstairs (theres
childrens theatre every Friday, Saturday and Sunday)
and a playground, Lego and games room downstairs. On
each table (if you are lucky enough to get one) you will
find a box, inside of which is your menu, pencils for coloring, and some games. The food is good - both for kids
and for adults - and they have a range of dishes for kids
with allergies. They even offer puree for kids as young as
six months. The place itself is bright and colourful, and
if you havent got any kids to bring here we recommend
borrowing some.QB-4, Vokiei 6, tel. (+370) 5 261 06
20, www.kukumuku.lt. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri 12:00 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6. PT
JAUEBSW
Medininkai
An Old Town restaurant that revels in its history, Medininkai
occupies a cavernous cellar in winter and luscious plantfilled courtyard in summer, both of them pseudo medieval
in atmosphere and charging a pretty penny for sublime
meat and seafood. Its one of the best spots to sample local fare like emaii pancakes, cepelinai and chicken Kiev.
The beetroot-and-goat-cheese tower is succulent, the
platter of cured Lithuanian meats and pickles tasty but not
exceptional.QC-5, Auros Vart 8, tel. (+370) 600 864 91,
www.medininkai.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. 13. TJABSW
Qpolo
The life-sized black horse masquerading as a standard
lamp goes some way to explaining the ethos behind
Qpolo, an unpronounceable restaurant whose combined
surrealist elements add rather than subtract to the overall
charm of the place. Tucked away in a small courtyard and
featuring a peaceful summer courtyard (in the right season), the menu is simple but good, featuring everything
from soup in the largest soup bowls weve ever seen to
wok-fried noodles to one of the best burgers in town
that miraculously manages to fill your stomach without
emptying your wallet. Trendy it may be, but theres no
crime in that, especially when the food is this good.QA-4,
Basanaviiaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 32 39. Open 11:00 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00
- 23:00. 6. TJA6BSW
Sonnets
That rare treat, a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the
Shakespeares in-house nosh-pit excels where others
barely get off the ground. Sumptuous and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection. A diverse menu
tempts diners with all manner of delicacies from classic
Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All overseen
by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a
little heavy but is worth every penny.QD-2, Bernardin
8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, www.
shakespeare.lt. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:30 24:00. 12. PTJALBSW
Where to eat
Soul&Pepper
Seriously good contemporary restaurant. From the exposed brickwork and minimalist tables you know from the
minute you walk in you are dealing with a place that wants
the food to shine. The menu is Meditterannean, with some
of the best pasta (all made fresh on the premises) in the
city. Offers a huge range of imported cheeses and other
treats, all of which can be bought to take home in the restaurants superb little deli. Add in some smooth sounds
(often live jazz) and you will see why it has become such
a hit.QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 699 922 93. Open
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 8.
PTJA6UEBSW
Studio 9
Knowing Lithuania as well as we do, we thought this place
was almost certainly going to go off the boil soon after
opening but it just keeps getting better. Arguably one of
the best places in the city to eat and drink for many a year,
Studio 9 wouldnt look or feel out of place 1,000km further west. Featuring their tremendous burger alongside
a handsome menu of other excellent and unpretentious
dishes, eating here is one option, but its also an excellent
bar that serves good draught Guinness and a DJ venue.
Surplus to the friendly service are a handful of intelligent
touches such as hooks for jackets under the aforementioned bar and plenty of foam on the important parts of
the ceiling to stop the music bouncing around uncontrollably. Find it not inside the main building but via a separate
entrance to the left.QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 698

529 99. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00. 7. PJA6EBSW
Time
We tend to steer clear of hotel restaurants in general but
we made a rare exception in the case of this recommended eatery. Bright and swishy in an entirely unpretentious
way, find friendly staff on hand to serve dishes from a small
but very good daily menu of international dishes alongside an inspired buffet. We opted for a simple vegetable
soup which not only looked good but that left the kind
of glowing feeling one only gets from quality cuisine. The
accompanying French bread was perfect and crispy and
came with a great little bowl of flavoured butter. Perhaps
not the best location in town but worth a visit if youre
interested in food made with imagination, a quality sadly
lacking in most Vilnius restaurants. Recommended. Note
that on Sundays they serve a good brunch from 12:30 16:30. 25.QA-6, Mindaugo 27 (Comfort Hotel Lt), tel.
(+370) 612 022 47. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00,
Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:30. Breakfast menu
served 07:00 - 10:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 11:00 (August
1 - 31). Breakfast menu served on Sun 07:00 - 10:00,
brunch 12:30 - 16:00, bar works 7:00 - 21:00 (September
1 - October 31). 11. PTA6USW
35
Where to eat
Zoes Bar & Grill

A long-standing Vilnius favourite, Zoes consistently
gets everything right from its enviable location to an
eclectic menu of classic food. Featuring everything
from their recommended BLT to excellently priced
Thai dishes, it also throws in a few twists like DJs at the
weekend. Its perfect for simple snacks or full-blown
spreads for groups. Note that at the time of going
to press the kitchen was closing an hour earlier than
the bar with the exception of Sundays. Also rents out
mopeds, from an hour to a whole week. Vroom!QB-2,
Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 33 31, www.zoesbargrill.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 14.
PTJAEBS
Italian
Da Antonio
An old favourite with several embassies in town, Da Antonio
is everything an Italian restaurant should be. Classy without
any unnecessary frills and with superb people-watching
windows at the front, the restaurant is overseen by a native
Italian chef with a menu including fresh fish soup, grilled
beef fillet and a wealth of great pasta dishes for meat eaters
and vegetarians alike. Theres a great choice of Italian wines
to compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts for
those who can cram a little more in.QA-2, Vilniaus 23, tel.
(+370) 5 262 01 09, www.antonio.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 17. PTJABSW
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Where to eat
Osteria da Luca
Not your typical trattoria, Osteria opts for a more nouvelle cuisine approach to its cooking and does it well.
Tucked inside the Old Town, it has a small dining area at
ground level and a cool, atmospheric cellar. Theres also
the option on warmer days of a small outdoor terrace
facing the fine Franciscan Church. We were impressed
by the bruschetta and Italian cheeses, followed by a
rich chocolate souffl.QB-4, Trak 11/2, tel. (+370) 679
594 20. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 7.
PTA6BSW
St. Valentino
An unbeatable location and years of terrific service
mark St. Valentino out as one of Vilnius most beloved
and respected restaurants. Certainly, the citys business community continues to favour the place over any
other, and it is easy to see why. The often adventurous
Italian food is a cut above the norm (try the duck liver
ravioli), and the cosy, clever interior layout affords discretion and privacy for those who require it. More than
recommended.QB-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 652
657 77, www.stvalentino.lt. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Thu,
Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
10. PTJABSW
Trattoria da Flavio
The exuberant owner Flavio has turned this hotel restaurant into a very Italian affair serving excellent food.
We felt like kings with the great staff fussing over every
detail: they really want to make you feel welcome. The
menu changes several times per week and is written on
a board in Italian: the staff will translate and explain it
to you in detail. We ate involtini alla messinese with tomatoes and oregano, and it was delicious. The tiramisu
was just as it should (unlike many others in Lithuania).
Complimentary Limoncello is the icing on the cake.QB5, Ligonins 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 48 46. Open 18:00 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 14. TJA6SW
Vapiano
Take a plastic payment card as you walk in and line up
at open kitchens for pizzas, pastas, salads and soups,
all freshly made on the spot. Enjoy a spicy Bolognese,
a luscious crema di pollo, or a healthy mixed salad. Interact with the chefs, who speak English, to fine-tune
the ingredients. Part of an international chain, Vapiano
is perfect for lunch or a break from shopping at the sleek
Europa mall. Its a fairly efficient operation, but waiting
to order pasta sometimes takes a while.QA-00, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5 238 34 89, www.
vapiano.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 22:00,
Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Kitchen works
till 22:30, Mon, Tue 21:30, Sat 22:30, Sun 20:30. 5.
PTA6BSW
37
Where to eat
Japanese
Labuki
With suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including
a main area with large windows overlooking the Town
Hall, Labuki offers a wealth of dishes to please all tastes and
budgets. The good-looking sushi sets are well priced and
flavoured, the tempura is terrific and the solitary noodle
dish with beef is absolutely out of this world. The Korean
chef also makes a mean soup and the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are fresh flowers on the
tables, the service is friendly and theres also a good value
business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat with a knife
and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when ordering
their food.QC-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 686 884 88, www.
labuki.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 10. PJAVBSW
Kosher
NEW
Rishon
The first kosher restaurant has opened in Vilna, in the small but
elegant basement of the boutique Dvaras Hotel near the Cathedral. At times lively with family dinners, at others quiet, its
a sparkling room with lights and mirrors, paintings and tablecloths. The waitress can helpfully explain the menu, especially
if its a religious holiday when additional fish dishes replace
the meat. Table water comes flavoured with lemon and roses.
We enjoyed delicious traditional dishes with Forshmak her38 Vilnius In Your Pocket
ring, stuffed carp, stuffed aubergine, falafel, humus and more,

washed down with dry, rich Recanati wine from Israel and
shots of Litvak vodka.QB/C-1/2, Tilto 3, tel. (+370) 655 228 94.
Open 7:00 - 23:00. Closed from Friday sunset till Saturday
sunset. 8.50. PTJAVESW
Local Seasonal Food

Sweet Root
We were impressed on our visit here. As the name suggests, many of the dishes here feature local root vegetables, which are used in a variety of ways in combination
with meat and fish to create inventive dishes. The portions
are deliberately small, allowing you to choose a number of
them in order to taste a variety of different flavours: you
will want to when you see the menu. Best of all we liked
the unique desserts: Caramelised quail egg yolks with pine
syrup and sour milk cream. Bet you have never seen that on
a Vilnius menu before! Spartan interior only serves to highlight the adventurousness of the food.QX-3, Uupio 22,
tel. (+370) 685 607 67, www.sweetroot.lt. Open 16:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 13. TJA6BW
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Where to eat
Mediterranean
Salvete City
With a successful golf resort and cross-country skiing retreat near Vilnius under their belts, the owners have set
up an elegant restaurant amid the classy boutiques of the
western stretch of Gedimino Avenue. An air of sophistication permeates the well-lit, ordered design, where dabs of
colour in paintings and fresh flowers stand out on multiple
shades of grey. The food? Try the Lithuanian lamb dishes as
the owners have their own lamb farm. Plus sets of Mediterranean meats and aged cheeses with honey, figs and jam,
homemade ravioli and beef entrecote. And the chocolate
souffl is amazing.QG-3, Gedimino 37, tel. (+370) 615
106 65, www.salveterestoranas.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 15. PT
JA6BSW
NEW
Tiana
We stopped by on the very evening this exquisite ItalianFrench-with-a-tropical-touch restaurant opened and it
was still hard to fault its professionalism. Mirrors play with
the light and chandeliers cast pretty shadows as immaculate waiters carry seafood with the scent of the ocean and
foie gras with fig jam. Splash out on tender marbled Argentinean Black Angus filet mignon, yellowfin tuna, perch
in banana leaves, or the fabulous mushroom risotto rich
with local fungi. A massive wine list rounds it all off.QC-3,
Didioji 3, tel. (+370) 643 288 88. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
20. PTJAVBSW
Mexican
ekoTako
Lots of natural light, wooden furniture, recycled materials
and ecological food products all work in EkoTakos favour,
as does summertime outdoor seating near the Cathedral.
Choose from fat burritos, soft tacos, thin but melt-in-themouth quesadillas and other Mexican staples. Vegan options come with creamy avocado. Say if you want it spiced
up, or use the deadly sauces. Skewers, burgers and dishes
for kids are also on the menu.QC-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 626
482 56. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
4. PTJABSW
Sofa de Pancho
We like whats currently going on in this part of town. Development may be slow, but its always interesting. Sofa de
Pancho may not have any Mexicans working in the open
kitchen but that doesnt stop them from being enthusiastic and actually not too bad at cooking. Probably the
best thing about the place though, like the bar next door,
is that everythings been thrown together in a jumblesale fashion that quite simply adds a touch of class to a
city with just too many sterile restaurants. Try the breakfast tortillas if youre feeling brave and dont do what we
did and turn up on a Tuesday evening assuming thered
be a table. Reserve in advance to avoid disappointment.
QB-5, Vis ventj 5, tel. (+370) 673 890 02. Open

16:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 15.
PTJA6BS
Yucatan
A mini-cactus on each table and irreverent Mayan-inspired
sketches on the walls add a tiny touch of the exotic to this
casual subterranean taco kitchen. We asked for guacamole,
but the waitress said there wasnt any. We asked for the
house cocktail, but that wasnt there either. No apology. A
tasty quesadilla partially compensated, but the breaded
chicken and pickled cactus tacos were decidedly ropey. For
the quality, it was pricey. We left no tip.QA-2, Pylimo 2/6,
tel. (+370) 676 392 34. Open 19:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. 6. PJA6EBSW
raw
Raw42
Located in a little triangle of Vilnius currently making
something of a name for itself, the food stretches beyond sandwiches and they even offer short courses
in making food. Note that none of the food is cooked
at a temperature higher that +42C.QB-5, Rdnink
12, tel. (+370) 659 685 45. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Mon
11:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 5.
JA6BSW
39
Where to eat
Pizza
Basilico
Sat on a corner next to a bus stop and an abandoned cinema Basilico is easily overlooked, which is a shame because
they currently serve the best pizza in Vilnius. Using proper
mozzarella and baked in a wood oven, these reasonably
priced masterpieces are best eaten with fresh basil which
is provided by a plant dumped on the table by one of the
waitresses after you order. Popular with families and busy
during the week, as if the pizza isnt temptation enough
they even make their own pasta. Very recommended
indeed.QA-4, Pylimo 21, tel. (+370) 650 516 80, www.
basilico-pica.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 22:00, Tue, Wed 11:00 - 23:00. Also at A. Gotauto 40c.
10. PTJA6EBSW
ili Pica
Lithuanias biggest and best-known pizza chain has standards of food and service that vary across its countless
locations, but it still finds ways of pleasing its regulars.
Seasonal and gourmet pizzas often add to the stock
of popular and affordable choices. Crusts are soft and
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doughy rather than thin and crisp, but the menu has other
options too including salads and soups.QA-1, Gedimino
23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90 71, www.cili.lt. Open 10:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. Also at
Didioji 5. 4. PJAVSW
Jurgis ir Drakonas
Jurgis is the local name for George, and the dragon is the
shapely pizza oven. A very popular place, just like its previous incarnation, expect it to be very busy all day long,
and as they do not take reservations you may need to
wait. We say the wait is well worth it, as the short menu
of (mostly) pizzas, plus a few other things is very good.
This is one of the best places to have a pizza in Vilnius,
given that just about everything - including the flour - is
brought from Italy.QA-3/4, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 600
779 77, www.jurgisirdrakonas.lt. Open 11:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 7. PTJASW
Pomodoro
After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants
its still almost impossible to fault them. For the price, the
pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak
continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, and
the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine way to
start the day. QA-2, Vilniaus 15, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22,
www.pomodoro.lt. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 08:00
- 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Also at P.
Lukio 32. 7. PTJAUBSW
Where to eat
Uupio Picerija
Parked in a street just around the corner from the Uupis
Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy
or dead as a door nail. Whatever state its found in, the
pizza they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet.
Eschew the other meals and stick to the house food and
youll be just fine. Service is of course amusing, and the
outdoor seating during the warmer part of the year is
exceedingly pleasant.QD-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215
36 66. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5.
PJABSW
Portuguese
NEW
Galo do Porto
Portuguese-style skewered-meat espetadas are the highlight here, suspended from a hook and drawing gasps
as they arrive at the table. Sumptuous steaks, ribs, duck
burgers and other carnivorous delights add weight to the
menu. Most of the garnish, from creamy mashed potato to
succulent salads, costs extra, so the final bill can be pricey.
But the atmosphere of this tastefully designed centuriesold room, its sheltered summertime courtyard and even
its tunnel to the toilets all create a memorable experience.
QC-5, Auros vart 11, tel. (+370) 5 261 92 61. Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. 10. TJAEBSW
Steak
Bff Steak House Vilnius
It would be really good news if Bff actually delivers on
a regular basis what it promises, namely the best steaks
in the country in pleasant surroundings. To be fair theyve
got off to a good start since opening a while back in a
modern setting just north of river. Lets hope the good
news continues. As for the food itself, the steaks are very
good indeed, plus theres burgers and fish and a range of
good soups to start plus a handful of desserts and drinks
to wash it all down with. Although the location could be a
lot better, its actually not that far to reach over the bridge
if youre in the area around the National Museum.QC-1,
Olimpiei 1, tel. (+370) 663 509 69, www.boff.lt. Open
11:30 - 22:00, Sat 12:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 29. PT
JAUBSW
Hazienda Steakhouse
A magnificent steak house, widely regarded as the best
in Lithuania, a title it has held for more than a decade
and a half. All of the raw material is sourced locally from
the finest beef farms, where cattle graze on Lithuanias
best grasslands. The restaurant can boast to know the
provenance of every single steak they serve, right down
to knowing what the cattle were fed. The setting - at
the charming Mabre hotel - is not to be overlooked either. Magnificent.QD-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre Hotel), tel.
(+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
17. PTJAEBW
41
Where to eat
Markus ir Ko
Serving various bits of cow to those who can afford it for
as long as many care to remember, Markus ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking the
best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely
upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but still knocks out by almost everybodys account a
damn fine steak.QC-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5
262 31 85, www.markusirko.lt. Open 12:00 - 24:00. 18.
TJAEBSW
Meat Lovers Pub
Cooking meat to perfection, we had a steak that couldnt
be argued with, a soup that was up there with soups costing five times as much and some pork that was absolutely
the best meat weve eaten in Vilnius for months. The ser-
vice is decent, and all things considered there are few places offering better value in Vilnius right now.QB-3, v. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652 512 33, www.meatloverspub.lt.
Open 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
7.5. PTA6SW
St. Hubertus
Name your game! The patron saint of hunters delivers on
(almost) everything from boar to pigeon, the classic-cut
steaks from porterhouse to tomahawk, the starters from
Baltic herring to ceviche. Order a half-lobster as an addon to your steak. With a peaceful courtyard sheltered from
the road and the elements, and some amazing sauces
giving further flavour to the meat, we expect St. Hubertus
to blossom.QB-4, Vokiei 24, tel. (+370) 615 697 77/
(+370) 686 047 08, www.st-hubertus.lt. Open 12:00 24:00. 15. PTJABXSW
Moroccan
Maghrib
An oasis of Saharan exoticism can be found a few
steps up the hill from the Angel of Uupis. Images of
Morocco are everywhere, even on the ceilings, and
Berber chants drift from the speakers like a desert
breeze as the waiter pours a thin stream of mint tea
into your glass. About half the menu is vegetarian.
Begin with zalouk, a cold coriander-flavoured aubergine starter, or crisp spinach-and-goat-cheese
briwat pastries with peanut-and-caper sauce. Move
on to slow-braised beef ribs, lamb tajine, or flaky
pie filled with pumpkin and potato. Fabulous.QX3, Uupio 22-3, tel. (+370) 698 056 67. Open 12:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Closed Mon. 9. PTJA6SW
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Where to eat
Tapas
Thai
Nio
The cracking little medieval cellar space under Cozy
now operates in the guise of a lounge-like tapas bar.
The delicacies in question more or less measure up to
the real thing, the English-speaking staff are frightfully
nice and, if youre the type of person who doesnt agree
with fancy food, its possible to spend hours down there
soaking up nothing more than the atmosphere and lots
and lots of alcohol. The attached restaurant-bar upstairs
is pretty good too.QB-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5
261 11 37. Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun (August 1 - 31). Open 19:00 - 03:00, Thu 19:00
- 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun (from September
1). 4. PJASW
Blue Lotus
NEW
Finally, Vilnius has a credible restaurant dedicated to Thai
cuisine. And its fantastic. Even the few dishes labelled Indian taste Thai, the chicken tikka masala for example being
packed with lime leaves, lemongrass and other toothsome
herbs and spices. Tender duck breast comes in a rich sweetand-sour tamarind sauce, while aubergines and other veg
are fried in the lightest of batter before being served in a luscious tumble of flavours. Main dishes may take time to arrive
but theyre worth the wait. Order a spicy soup to fill the time.
The interior is polished, the service gracious.QB-2, Totori
16, tel. (+370) 626 271 96, www.bluelotus.lt. Open 11:30 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. 9. PTJASW
Home Delivery
Too lazy or hungover to go out and get something to eat? The following all provide home delivery services. Delivery
charges range from free to 6 depending on venue and total cost of order.
Venue
Tel.
Website
ili
1822
www.1822.lt
Didioji Kinija (+370) 5 263 63 63 www.kinuvirtuve.lt
Open
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 01:00.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat12:00 22:00, Sun12:00 - 22:00.
Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00
24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00.
Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 20:00.
Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00.
Labuki
(+370) 686 884 88
Mano Guru
(+370) 5 212 01 26 www.manoguru.lt
Miyako
1315
Submarine
(+370) 5 233 33 23 www.submarinas.lt
Sues Indian
Raja
(+370) 5 266 18 88 www.suesindianraja.lt 11:00 - 23:00
www.lekste.lt
www.sushi.lt
Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Cuisine
Chinese, Sushi,
Lithuanian, Pizza,
Chinese
Japanese, Korean
Salad,
international
Japanese
Pizza,
international
Indian
Shimai Sushi &

Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00
(+370) 677 750 74 www.shimai.lt
Japanese
Wine
20:00.
Home delivery can also be arranged by www.lekste.lt and www.foodout.lt. Select from a wide variety of menus by
Vilnius' best restaurants, order to your chosen address, and enjoy.
43
Where to eat
Cafes
salad
AJ okoladas
A local cafe offering coffee with a street garden on the
pretty Pilies street close to the cathedral. The main pull
here though are the delicious chocolates made daily in
Trakai and delivered fresh to the capital, which are sold by
the gramme, so you can be as picky as you like. Make sure
to take a snoop out back where there is a mock parlour
made entirely out of chocolate - a dream room for a kid like
Augustus Gloop from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
QC-2, Pilies 8, tel. (+370) 655 955 55, www.ajsokoladas.
lt. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00
- 23:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sut 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00 (September 1 - 30).
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 22:00 (from October 1). Also at Gedimino 46, Gedimino
9. PTJAB
Mano Guru
Opened way back in August 2004 and still going
strong, the recommended Mano Guru offers a mindboggling array of substantial salads plus desserts and
soft drinks in something of a boutique setting. Popular
particularly with women watching their weight, other
people are encouraged to visit not least because of
the idea behind the place. Begun on the initiative of
local legend and former mayor of Vilnius Artras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are recovering
drug addicts involved in whats probably the most enlightened project in the city, and one thats well worth
supporting.QB-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 01
26, www.manoguru.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. 4. TJA6VSW
Cat Cafe (Kai kavin)

Cats never tire of attention, and here theres no end of it.
Pouncing on a growing trend, Cat Caf is popular with
couples, families (but no kids aged under six) and cat lovers of every stripe, so you may have to wait for a table. The
moggies are a bit retiring, most of them kipping on comfy
perches atop claw-friendly climbing frames. But some will
come to you once you have food on the table. The two
waitresses are busier than the cats, ferrying simple dishes
from the hatch - potato pancakes, spaghetti, sandwiches,
waffles, milkshakes in mini milk bottles, coffee with a cute
chocolate paw print on top. Minimum order set at 2.99.
Booze is served too, if you fancy an early start to a night on
the tiles.QG-3/4, Jasinskio 1, tel. (+370) 671 343 43. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 3.40. PJASW
63, www.coffee-inn.lt. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri

07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Also at Trak 7,
Pilies 3, Pilies 22, Gedimino 2, Gedimino 9, Gedimino
31, Gedimino 52, Didioji 6, Didioji 40, Vokiei 18,
M. K. iurlionio 8, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Ozo 25 (Akropolis).
PJASW
Kava tau
A splendid view of the Old Town can be strolled to, southeastwards along Maironio, and served with your preferred
coffee at this seasonal open-air caf. Espresso, flavoured and
regular coffees, shakes and smoothies, a few unsurprising
wines and beers and a refreshing spritz may all be poured.
Run-of-the-mill rolls and salads are on offer, but its the
spire-spotting view you come here for.QSubaiaus/ Maironio, tel. (+370) 620 545 14, www.kavatau.lt. Open 10:30
- 23:30, Mon, Tue 10:30 - 22:00 (August 1 October 31).
Chaika
Run - very much hands-on - by a young couple this lovely
little house is difficult to miss. Try one of the more unusual
coffees: made with Sichuan pepper, salt, cinnamon or vanilla. Whats more all the spices are the real deal: no artificial nonsense here. There are sandwiches too (we had
turkey with cheese and apples) as well as great desserts,
like the crumble cake with dried fruits and caramel. Best
of all though we liked the tables: round with a road sign
printed on them. Vilnius has needed a seriously good new
cafe for a while; Chaika could well be it.QB-2, Totori 7,
tel. (+370) 648 747 02. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. PTJA6W
Mood Makers
Bright, hip and happening, this creative corner caf has
background techno beats that subconsciously get the
heart pumping as much as the caffeine. Made for coffeeguzzling, gadget-loving millennials, Mood Makers efficiently serves up lovely carrot cake and brownies alongside its lattes, espressos and Wi-Fi.QH-4, Vokiei 15/1,
tel. (+370) 610 125 51, www.moodmakerscafe.lt. Open
07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. PTJA6EBSW
Coffee Inn
One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors
of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their Facebook pages on their iPhones. The coffee,
served Starbucks-style, is excellent, as are many of the
accompanying cakes, sandwiches, wraps, muffins,
juices etc. Recommended for vegetarians are the superb grilled vegetable sandwiches, whilst the BLTs are
an absolute treat.QA-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777
vieia Kava
One of the countrys top coffee house chains, vieia
Kavas Gedimino 9 outlet is housed inside a bookshop no
less, making for the perfect environment to drink quality
espresso and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep
an eye out for their other branches.QB-1, Gedimino 9, tel.
(+370) 5 260 96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. Open 10:00 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Also at Gedimino 35, Vokiei
15, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanori
22, J. Balikonio 3. PJAUSW
Where to eat
Time Out eat & play
While theres not a great deal to eat, theres certainly plenty
to play. As the alarming sound of machine guns attests, the
dark basement is a play zone with beanbags set around three
screens ready for PS4 games like the latest versions of Call of
Duty, Killzone, Need for Speed, FIFA and other controller-gripping delights. If youve never played before, theyll show you
how. Pre-packaged sandwiches, salads and muffins are the
eats and beer and cider are on sale. Or try some tasty cranberry-and-lemon tea.QA-3, Klaipdos 3, tel. (+370) 626 006
57. Open 14:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 23:00. PJAW
UFF
Sharing the premises with a barbers is not as crazy as it
sounds. The scents of quality coffee and perfumed hair
products mingle in this brightly lit, spartan caf opposite the cathedral, but the slices of homemade chocolate
cheesecake and brownies carry not a hint of hairspray.
QH-4, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 672 682 40. Open 8:00 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. 4. PTJA6SW
Vero Caf
Good coffee and a range of snacks from an established
chain caf. The interiors are slightly more interesting than
most of their competitors and they play better music too.
You can take your coffee away too if you like.QB-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 618 554 77, www.verocafe.lt. Open
07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also
at Pilies 6, Didioji 30, Vilniaus 10, Ozo 25 (Akropolis),
Ozo 18 (Ozas), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Saltoniki 9
(Panorama), Jasinskio 16. PJABSW
LITHUANIAN FOOD
Its been written many times by many people in
many places (including, if were honest, by our good
selves in this very city guide) that nobody travels to
Lithuania for the food. While this is not entirely untrue, it is also a little unfair. For while Lithuanian food
is not as immediately celebrated as certain other
cuisines, this countrys food is far more adventurous
than people give it credit for.
It is perhaps the classic sour soup which is the staple
of the Lithuanian diet. The most legendary soup is
the bright pink altibariai, or cold beet soup, made
with beetroot. Another version of the same soup is
the raugint burokli sriuba, made with shoulder of smoked ham and served warm. Those of you
who dont like beetroot should fear not, however,
for mushroom soup (gryb sriuba) is now almost as
quintessentially Lithuanian (and just as ubiquitous).
When it comes to the meatier parts of the menu,
Lithuania is not to be found wanting, particularly if
you like pork. This country seriously knows its stuff
when it comes to making the most of a pig, with
almost every part of the animal used in some kind
of foodstuff. Trotters (trokintos kojos) are one such
local delicacy: they are braised for hours and served
with bacon and sauerkraut. Traditionally, pigs are
purchased by farmers shortly after harvest time and
fattened-up until just before Christmas, sometimes
into January. They are then slaughtered, with the
tenderest cuts eaten and the rest of the ham and
bacon smoked. Sausages are made, of which the
most famous is the legendary Lithuanian smoked
sausage, the skilandis. Unusually for sausage in this
part of the world the meat used to make skilandis
is very lean. Lesser cuts of meat are used to make a
more coarse sausage, rkytos derels. Our own favourite way of eating pork in Lithuania however is to
devour a huge, boiled, heavily-smoked knuckle (virtas rkytas kumpis). Lamb (if you can find it) is also
worth trying: not least lambs testicles, a surprisingly
tasty treat.
On the fish front, herring (silk) is a big deal in Lithuania. Baked, fried or pickled you will often see herring served as an appetiser. When it comes to larger
fish, pike (lydeka) - delicious when simmered in beet
juice - is the most common, although carp also
makes the odd appearance on menus.
Lithuania is a country rich in mushrooms. There are
hundreds of edible varieties, and as a result they
play a key part in local cuisine. Besides making soup,
mushrooms are used to flavour inumerous dishes, be
it with meat, fish or potatoes.
Playing near the Cathedral Belfry
45
Nightlife
Great cocktails and a trendy crowd at Pantera, photo by Tomas imkus

The Lithuanian capitals disparate nightlife options run
the breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and
budget, from quiet cafs full of serious-looking men
huddled over a game of chess to steamy underground
caverns dedicated to the time-honoured pursuit of
getting ordinarily level-headed businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty the contents of
their bank account inside a strippers knickers. Now
that the citys wine-drinking crowd have been given
their own places to imbibe, Vilnius nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their attention to the subject of beer,
namely with the regular opening of a new place selling brown frothy drinks made in small microbreweries
around the country. The best are of course listed here.
Clubs remain almost exclusively mainstream, whilst
the citys gay and lesbian scene is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. Note that face control is currently on the rise in Vilnius: if yours doesnt fit,
forget it. Wearing a decent pair of shoes usually helps.
Leave your trainers at home and have fun!
Bars
Artistai
This longstanding bar is hugely popular with irreverent
but friendly young party people, but the music is a real
mix including retro sounds dating back years or even decades. At its best, on warmer days the merriment spills
onto a rather lovely courtyard, a DJ spinning tunes from
the corner, the conversation often crossing between
tables. Order lashings of cheap food and beer and enjoy live local bands, disco, jazz or karaoke, depending on
the night.QC-4, v. Kazimiero 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 68,
www.artistai.lt. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
JA6EBSW
www.inyourpocket.com
NEW
Baras Senas Radijas
A few adventurous steps from the Old Town lies a tiny roughand-tumble bar with soul, for unfussy and nostalgic drinkers.
At Old Radio Bar, complex and ancient radios, vinyl records,
musical instruments and Soviet-era soda bottles adorn the
walls, while hits from the past make the merry croon. If you
can play music, youll be given the stage, or the musty cellar
downstairs. Dundulis and other craft beers quench the thirst,
but when we asked for a cocktail the barman took a massive glass and threw in four local liqueurs, Pepsi and ice, to
refreshing effect.QC-6, Auros vart 27, tel. (+370) 675 746
52. Open 16:00 - 23:00. JA6EBW
NEW
Bukowski baras
The hip and the trendy have turned shabby into shabby chic
at a bar named after the unrepentant hard-drinking, womanising American poet. He would certainly have approved
of the local craft beers, especially the lovely draft Dundulis
brews, and an expanded choice of booze lines the wall behind the bar. Opulent hot dogs are grilled and served in trays
- with refried beans, macaroni cheddar and, best of all, caramelised onions. Thick buttery fries are optional.QC-5, Vis
ventj 7, tel. (+370) 699 446 25. Open 11:00 - 04:00.
JA6EBW
Crazy Bull
Crazy Bull is a sports bar brought to you by the good people
behind Salento. Besides loads of live sport on the many televisions (including one genuinely enormous screen) you can
also bet right in the bar. The food is a cut above standard
sports bar fare: there are (very good) burgers and ribs as you
might expect, but you can also grab mussels, big salads and
a few other treats well worth trying. Usually packed when
there is a big game on, it is less busy at other times.QC-4,
Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820 15. Open 17:00 - 04:00,
Fri 17:00 - 06:00, Sat 13:00 - 06:00, Sun 13:00 - 04:00.
PJAEW
Nightlife
Dirty Duck
There is much about this place that will have you coming back for more than one visit. It is a contemporary
pub and bistro with a vaguely industrial feel serving
a huge range of good beer, a seriously decent selection of whiskies (including a few from more exotic locations) and great food. Indeed, the food is a cut above
what you would expect from a pub and can be placed
firmly in the top bistro category. The pork rib with
apple sauce we ate was superb, and the lunchtime deal
(available until 15:00) is very good value. Service is good
too.QC-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 231 26 41, www.
dirtyduck.eu. Open 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00.
PJASW
Etnobaras
On the edge of the Old Town is a corner bar that revels
in its sense of national identity - pagan, rural, free-spirited. A Lithuanian flag is draped above the bar, interwar
newspaper ads are framed on the walls and melodic folk
metal crashes out of the speakers. Cocktails mix local ingredients - devils apples is vodka and apple juice; hot
nines is Three Nines liqueur with grape juice, but hot.
You get the idea. Try local mead, bitter brandies or sweet
elixirs. Simple dishes are on offer too, including a rich and
creamy mushroom soup and mushroom pastries.QA-4,
Basanaviiaus 1, tel. (+370) 655 032 62. Open 12:00 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00
- 24:00. JA6BW
47
Nightlife
SUmmer Bars
Hats off to the merry innkeepers of Vilnius, whove simultaneously realised the potential of the city centres
empty spaces and stuffed great big bars in several
of them. This may seem somewhat pass to many a
reader but for the locals its literally a breath of fresh air.
Even better, most, if not all by the time this sentence is
finished, come with a clutch of DJs to help swing things
along. The following list is far from complete, but does
at least represent the best of the bunch. All listed venues will be open until the end of the good weather,
some time around the start of October.
Piano Man Outside
From the people who have long brought you Piano
Man over on Islandijos, Piano Man Outside once again
this summer offers good music, good company and
a wonderful atmosphere in what is a truly quintessential Vilnius location. Come early and settle in for a
long night of beer and dancing. Seriously cool.QB-3,
Vilniaus 41/9, tel. (+370) 620 682 40. Open 17:00
- 04:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 01:00, Tue, Wed 17:00 02:00. Open May 1 - September 30. JAEB
Terasa MANO KIEMAS
My Courtyard is also your courtyard, a humming and
rather cosy spot off an Old Town lane thats ideal on
woozy summer evenings. Its a surprisingly spacious
courtyard on different levels, best for evening or weekend drinks rather than the food.QB-3, Totori 13, tel.
(+370) 607 651 75. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00
- 24:00. Open May 14 - September 15.
FLOOR
Voices compete with a thudding bassline and indistinguishable music to create an agreeable background
clamour thats great for groups of laughing friends or
whispering, smoochy couples. Floors relaxed and modern
ambiance is especially popular with locals on weekend
nights. Drinks are fairly predictable as beer flows like a
river and all the major whiskies and bourbons are present
behind the backlit bar, but we enjoy multiple glasses of a
strong lychee beverage called Litchao. Classic and lesser
spotted cocktails are plentiful, such as a fizzy Apernac
spritz or the kumquat-inflected Buena Vista Havana. Burgers, pasta and teriyaki chicken wings are occasionally consumed, but Floor is really just for chilling after a hard week.
QA2/3, Vilniaus 33/4, tel. (+370) 657 928 26. Open 11:30
- 24:00, Thu 11:30 - 02:00, Fri 11:30 - 04:00, Sat 15:00 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PJA6EBSW
Glory Bar by Stikliai
The newest venue by the legendary Stikliai Hotel and
Restaurant owners is this very upmarket club which has
its eye firmly set on attracting the citys most happening
people. There is strict face-control (primarily designed
to keep out teenyboppers) and you will need to be well48 Vilnius In Your Pocket
dressed to make it in. Even the DJs wear designer-labels: it

is that kind of place and Vilnius is all the better for it. This
is where the smart-set comes to party and feel superior: if
you manage to make it in and join them no doubt you will
too.QC-5, Auros Vart 5, tel. (+370) 618 064 08. Open
18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PJAEBW
Gringo
The first rum bar in Vilnius, which has friendly bar staff who
certainly make a change from many others in the area, and
the cold beers on offer are both well chosen and priced
(Gringo currently serves one of the best pints of Guinness
in the region). Also find the added incentives of free wireless internet and table football, as well as real football (including the Premier League) and rugby on the TV.QA-2,
Vilniaus 31/1, tel. (+370) 654 905 41. Open 16:00 - 03:00,
Thu 16:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 03:00. JABW
Kas Kas
A charming wee courtyard at the back is this bars best asset on sultrier evenings. One of many nightspots that have
blossomed in this corner of the Old Town recently, Kas Kas
lacks character but functions as a smart, clean, orderly watering hole for smart, clean, orderly guests. Cultured paintings create something to look at. Theres a good selection
of cocktails, but the barman who makes them doesnt roll
in until 7pm. Or there are 20 popular whiskies and 12 unsurprising beers. Pub grub makes up most of the menu.
QA-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 630 171 21. Open 11:00
- 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PJA6EBW
King & Mouse
Following on from the success of their similar Kaunas
venture, the owners of this relatively new place located
on what many believe to be Vilnius shortest street have
opened an intriguing venue for those who simply cant get
enough whisky. Featuring over 300 types from around the
world as well as other offerings and plenty of decent food
to accompany it, everything is located inside three different rooms including two bar spaces and a further one
that also contains a shop. Surplus to the usual improvised
drinking sessions are a range of tasting events and suchlike for the connoisseur.QA-4, Trak 2/Miesto Sienos, tel.
(+370) 657 454 78. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JABW
Leiiai
The next logical step in the evolution of the specialist
Lithuanian beer bar, Leiiai also doubles as a restaurant
serving classic traditional local food. As well as a space
for drinking the range of superb Lithuanian beers on offer
from small microbreweries around the country, this pleasant watering hole also features two dining halls, one with
an open kitchen and a small beer garden out the back.QC4, Stikli 4, tel. (+370) 5 260 90 87. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
PJA6BSW
Nightlife
Piano Man
Consistently busy during the weekend when propping up
the bar is generally the only option left for people arriving
after 21:00, the mixed and predominantly chirpy crowd
at Piano Man provides a buzz lacking in many of its competitors. The bar stocks a good range of drinks including
draught Guinness and Hoegaarden, theres table football in
the corner and from time to time theres also the added
bonus of live music. An excellent choice indeed for anyone looking for a place to add to their pub crawl or for
staying the course and spending the entire evening here.
QA-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 630 099 49. Open 17:00
- 02:00, Wed 17:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00.
PJABW
Republic No. 4
Three of these English-style pubs are already huge in
Kaunas. This is their big move to the capital. The big
draw: 20 beers on tap and 30 bottled, plus countless
whiskies. Sit around a handmade oak bar or on plush
leather seating surrounded by English paraphernalia and football scarves, and munch on spicy nachos,
juicy steaks, burgers, Caesar salads and the like. Try the
delicious beef salad with balsamic sauce. Best Lithuanian beer: the hard-to-find Neinomas krantas (Unknown Coast) with its taste like strong red wine.QA/B-2,
Vilniaus 27, tel. (+370) 614 448 44. Open 11:00 - 02:00,
Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
PJAEW
Sarkozy
A combined shop and bar specialising in products derived from the humble apple, in particular some truly
exceptional cider from Normandy, Sarkozy represents
precisely what Vilnius is in dire need of, namely venues
that eschew the safe and mundane themes the capitals
drinking establishments usually go for. Already popular
with the citys moneyed intellectual crowd as well as other
characters who simply like their cider, they also sell a lot
of other stuff for the kitchen including juice, cheese and
tea, all of them of course made with apples.QA-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 620 653 33. Open 16:00 - 23:00, Thu
16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PJAW
SkyBar
Churning out scores of excellent cocktails and still providing not one but two extraordinary views from the 22nd
floor, a trip to Vilnius without a trip to SkyBar isnt really
a trip at all. The best times to drop by are as the sun is
setting or late at the weekend when the place takes on
a distinctively clubby feel. The aforementioned views include not only the best panorama of Old Town there is but,
less popular but an extraordinary contrast all the same, a
view to the vast concrete sleeping districts that house the
majority of the citys residents. Highly recommended.QA00, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, 22nd
floor), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 23. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
17:00 - 02:30. PAULXW
49
SEPTEMBERNOVEMBER 2015
ORCHESTRAL SERIES
This series presents regular weekly appearances
by the two resident philharmonic orchestras and
exclusive guest performances by internationally
acclaimed soloists, conductors and orchestras
whose repertoires range from Baroque, Classical and Romantic orchestral staple pieces to
contemporary works. All concerts start at 7 pm,
at the National Philharmonic Hall (5 Auros
Vart g.).
Tickets: 530
CHAMBER MUSIC SERIES

An exciting potpourri of chamber music performed by instrumental and vocal ensembles
and choirs. Concerts are held at the National
Philharmonic Hall (5 Auros Vart g.) and at the
Museum of Applied Art (3A Arsenalo g.).
Tickets: 410
September: 30
October: 4, 11, 14, 18, 21, 25
November: 8, 15, 22, 29
September: 16, 26
October: 3, 10, 17, 23
November: 4, 7
BOX OFFICE
5 Auros Vart g., 01304 Vilnius, Lithuania
Open TueSat 10 am7 pm, Sun 10 am12 noon; Mondays closed.
Ph.: (+370 5) 266 52 16, 266 52 33; +370 698 52075
Bookings by email: bilietai@filharmonija.lt
www.nationalphilharmonic.eu
VILNIUS PIANO FESTIVAL

The 5th International Vilnius Piano festival under
the artistic direction and patronage of the internationally acclaimed Lithuanian-born pianist
Mza Rubackyt presents seven events at the
Lithuanian National Philharmonic Hall (5 Auros
Vart g.), showcasing emerging and world famous
piano virtuosi from Lithuania, Armenia, Austria,
Germany, Hungary, Russia and Switzerland
Tickets: 530
FAMILY SERIES
Listeners of all ages are welcomed to the Sunday matine concerts featuring the fascinating
world of music, sometimes also combined with
movement and theatrical elements. Concerts
start at 12 noon, at the National Philharmonic Hall (5 Auros Vart g.).
Tickets: 37
September: 27
October: 4, 11, 18
November: 8, 15, 29
November: 14, 17, 19, 21, 25, 26, 28
MUSIC IN TRAKAI CASTLE

Chamber Music Series
We invite chamber music lovers to enjoy a wide
selection of programmes presented by various
instrumental and vocal groups in the spectacular
setting of a medieval castle. All concerts are held
on Sundays, at 3 pm, at the Great Hall of Trakai
Island Castle.
Tickets: 710
September: 20, 27
October: 4, 18
November: 22
Tickets for the concerts at the National Philharmonic Hall

are also available via classictic.com.
For more information, newsletter subscription and online
bookings, visit www.nationalphilharmonic.eu.
Nightlife
punka
Why arent there more bars like this in Vilnius? Small,
scruffy, friendly, affordable and packed with a stunning
selection of outstanding local and foreign beer on tap
and in bottles, there should be a punka on every street.
Get absolutely sloshed, meet some eccentric locals and
ask for one of their wooden boards of meat and cheese
when you get peckish. Well worth a visit.QD-3, Uupio
9, tel. (+370) 652 323 61, www.spunka.lt. Open 15:00 22:00, Mon 17:00 - 22:00. JAW
Sweet&Sour
Oh yes, we liked this place from the moment we walked
in. It has a proper bar with proper bar stools for a start
(always a winner in our book) and boasts a couple of
most skilled cocktail wizards in the city. The Old Fashioned they serve here is perhaps the best in Vilnius, and
its made all the better by being able to drink it while
sitting in one of the sumptuous leather armchairs. There
is a menu of fine single malts too, and loads of appetizers to nibble on. Very nice indeed.QC-5, Auros Vart
19, tel. (+370) 682 277 74. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA
Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that its impossible to
be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide
are written to provide a general overview of whats to
be expected if you visit them. As any serious clubber

already knows, nights change with alarming regularity,
good promoters come and go and expected crowds fail
to turn up. The pitifully few brave clubs in Vilnius who
dare to break away from the mainstream all have at least
a well-maintained website if not a Facebook page or two
to compliment, of which Vilnius In Your Pocket at least always provides the former to help give readers even more
information. Finally, the good news about clubbing in
Vilnius is that entrance prices are relatively low and the
city is remarkably small. If you do happen to stumble on
a non-event, relocating to another club is both quick and
affordable.
Exit Vilnius
Remember when the best club in the country (indeed,
one of the best in Europe in our book) was in Kaunas?
That was Exit. This is a welcome return for Lithuanias
top nightspot, now in the capital and once again attracting a beautiful crowd of serious party people looking
for a seriously good time. Expect top DJs from all over
the world to be spinning the tunes behind the decks,
amazing lights and special effects, gorgeous dancers
and just about the most hedonistic time you can have in
this city. Bring it on!QG-4, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370)
698 591 16. Open 23:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. Closed August 1 - 31. Entrance from
3. PJA
Nightlife
Men Fabrikas Loftas
An independent, non-profit cultural centre based inside
a fabulous old factory providing creative opportunities,
outlets and events for the community including parties,
fashion shows, educational seminars, film screenings and
much more. Also known as Loftas (The Loft), for more details about all their events - including those held on their
new summer terrace, LRT OPUS, see their homepage
(menufabrikas.lt - available in English).QG-5, vitrigailos
29, tel. (+370) 656 746 77, www.menufabrikas.lt. Working hours depend on repertoire. Entrance (Loftas) free
- 40. TJ6EBKW
Pabo Latino
Featuring three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country where human
warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair door
policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside
is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for
a fun evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings. The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the
cocktail menu is massive and if you dont know how to
dance Latin style, they even organise lessons for anyone
willing to give it a go.QA-4, Trak 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10
45, www.pabolatino.lt. Open Thu 21:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free
or 4.5 - 9. PJAEBX
Pantera
Cocktails and more at a top venue brought to you by the
same people as uber-club Exit. The crowd which makes it in
is young, trendy and rather attractive, while the place itself is
much the same: it looks fabulous, and is packed with comfy
black leather sofas ripe for chilling on with your expertly
made drink. Watching some of the bar staff in action is a
night out itself, while the waitresses are rather fetching in
their pretty black dresses. You will like it the moment you
walk in.QA-2, A. Smetonos 5, tel. (+370) 657 614 45. Open
23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Closed
August 1 - 31. Entrance free. PJA
Salento DiscoPub
Somethin goin on every night at this longstanding favourite in the middle of the Old Town, bringing an Italian and
Spanish disco-bar feel to the Lithuanian capital. A predominantly youthful mix of partygoers enjoys tempting cocktail
offers, a friendly crowd and big TV screens, and things get
especially heaving late at night. Tuesdays Erasmus night,
the biggest student party in town, Thursdays indie-rock
night, and expect cool DJs at weekends.QC-4, Didioji
28, tel. (+370) 676 820 15, www.salentodiscopub.com.
Open 22:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - 5. PJAEW
Wheres the party?

facebook.com/
inyourpocket
53
Nightlife
Cocktails
Alchemikas
Its about time a cocktail bar came along that was more
about the art of cocktails than the pretence of the cocktail bar sensation. Specialising in both classic and modern
mixed drinks, its worth paying them a visit just to have a
peep at the extraordinary interior, and if you do choose
to stick around, expect to be bankrupt by the end of the
evening thanks to the addictive allure of their magnificent
mixology. Note that this is one of the smallest bars in Vilnius, so serious cocktail lovers should come on Wednesday
or Thursday, as Friday can be very full. Recommended.QA2, Islandijos 1, tel. (+370) 612 998 00. Open 19:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. JAB
wine
Burbulio Vynin
This tiny wine bar and shop in the Old Town specialises in bottles from small producers in Italy, but their
real passion is sparking wines. Discover drinks you
wouldnt expect to find in Lithuania, like Franciacorta
from Brescia in Lombardy or, from France, Crmant
dAlsace. They also pour a refreshing spritz. Theres
no outdoor seating, but its cosy on colder days.QB5, Rdnink 18, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 55. Open 15:00
- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PJAW
In Vino
Catching on to the current craze for wine bars in the
city early on, theyve obviously got a real appreciation
for wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps
best enjoyed on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one
of the best places in town to mingle with the cream
of the citys C-list celebrities.QC-5, Auros Vart 7,
tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10, www.invino.lt. Open 16:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PJA6BSW
La Bohme
Good for either food or drink, the grandiose medieval
interior is perfect for group celebrations and the wine
list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a most
suitable venue for everyone, from passing lads on the
pull to a coach-load of grandmothers.QB-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 87. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JABSW
Notre Vie
Yet another wine bar, this one is small and intimate
with friendly staff and a good selection of booze and
snacks. Although nothing to get too excited about, it
is at least the real thing unlike so many of the others
in Vilnius.QB/C-3, Stikli 10, tel. (+370) 614 245 21.
Open 13:00 - 24:00, Mon 17:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 22:00. PJA6EBSW
Paparazzi
Still going strong after all these years, Paparazzi has made
a few minor changes since it first opened its doors such
as moving a few metres to the right and introducing an
extremely popular weekly pub quiz, but the place more
or less remains the same as it ever was. Frequented by a
mostly young, 20-something crowd out for a good time
in a friendly environment, the cocktails remain the reason
why so many still visit although theres plenty of other
good things behind the bar to keep everybody happy.
If youre thinking of dropping by late at night after too
many drinks somewhere else, or if you didnt bother to
get changed after hiking in the countryside all day, dont
be surprised to be turned away. The door policy may be
tough but it does ensure a good night out for all who make
it in.QB-2, Totori 1/10, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 35, www.
paparazzi.lt. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00.
PJAW
Salionas
For a subdued, downbeat, alternative version of your
mainstream big-budget cocktail bars, look no further
than Salionas. Breathing life back into the elaborate Writers Union, once infamous for its crazy insatiable scribes,
its now far less intense. Leather furniture adds a touch
of sophistication, while the atmospherically lit courtyard
is relaxing in warmer weather.QB-1/2, K. Sirvydo 6, tel.
(+370) 655 557 06. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAEBW
Microbreweries
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes
bars selling beer from microbreweries scattered around the
country. Enjoy.
Bambalyn
Featuring a rapidly approaching total of close to 100 types
of beer from microbreweries across the country and a
spooky brick cellar ambience, Bambalyn counts among
a number of specialist bars in the city catering to the
tastes of those who like their ale local rather than multinational. The beers in question range from light to dark
Nightlife
and should keep all but the fussiest from hours of drunken
appreciation. A little bit classier than its counterparts,
the bar is fashionable among the capitals more urbane
guzzlers, plus theres a shop inside and a beer-tasting
lounge for true aficionados.QC-4, Stikli 7, tel. (+370)
5 240 56 70, www.bambalyne.lt. Open 11:00 - 24:00.
PJA6W
Bsi Treias
Meaning something along the lines of Youll be the third,
which in this part of the world spells bad luck, Bsi Treias
functions as one of the capitals only microbreweries as well
as a better than average place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is a genuinely good bar, whilst the
large upper level has the feel of a demented German beer
hall complete with sozzled groups of locals singing patriotic
songs and falling off the wooden benches. The in-house
beer is good stuff, although we recommend you steer clear
of the flavoured versions.QB-2, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 231
26 98, www.busitrecias.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Thu 11:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJABW
Leii Bravoras
The sweet, seductive scent of malt greets you as you enter this exceptional little microbrewery on one of the Old
Towns most atmospheric lanes. Opt from a hoppy India
pale ale, a pint of lager, the red Metzen, or - our favourite - a
strong porter, and guzzle them beneath a beautiful vaulted
brickwork ceiling. The lighting and leather-bound furniture
are pleasingly dark and each of the smart tables has its own
tap, so you dont have to wait for refills. Try traditional beer
snacks like toasted rye bread or curd cheese marinated in
olive oil and herbs, or there are more substantial meals such
as steak and spicy evening stew. Cocktails with a local twist
and wines are on offer too.QH/I-4, Stikli 5, tel. (+370) 5
260 94 07. Open 13:00 - 02:00. JA6W
nekutis
Not a microbrewery as such, nekutis sneaks into this section on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewerybrewed beers from all corners of the country. Some of
this is live, meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the
hangover that goes with the superb 12 per cent Staias from
Panevys. A couple of large ones of these and you might
find yourself rolling down the mysterious staircase by the
toilet. Should this happen, dont be surprised to find yourself

fished out by the barman, a personable gentleman with a
theatrical moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely
popular, meaning its not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, nekutis
doesnt have table service. Order at the bar.QB-5, v. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Also at
Polocko 7a, v. Mikalojaus 15. PJAS
live events
Tamsta
A brave attempt by the people who run the excellent
music shop downstairs to bring live bands of many
persuasions to a half-starved audience. Music ranges
from jazz to art-rock to old fashioned rock and roll,
theres a long bar to keep everyone fed and watered,
plus once a month they organise a so-called Open Mic
Day where outsiders can come and improvise along
with other like-minded musicians.QD-5, A. Strazdelio
1, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 98, www.tamstaclub.lt. Open
20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. Entrance free or 2 - 12. PJAEW
Upper reaches of the Old Town at night
55
Nightlife
Press Box
Champagne
In Your Pocket is a model of the genre, packed with useful info, and well written.
NEW
The Bubbles. Champagneria
New to Vilnius but a simple concept, this is an evening
bar dedicated to champagnes, sparkling wines and
prosecco, at least 30 of each, and on the board a small
selection available on that day by the glass. Bubble
freaks can spend quality time with a bottle in an ice
bucket between them. The interior is 50 shades of
black, but its friendly, elegant and spotless, the cool
dark emphasising the views of the street and the park
and the sparkles in your glass.QA/B - 3, Vilniaus 35,
tel. (+370) 650 969 25. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00. JAW
The Daily Telegraph

Brutally honest.
Wall Street Journal
Entertaining and honest: at times devastatingly so, the In
Your Pocket city guides make their rivals seem tame by
comparison.
The Independent
From Albania to Ukraine In Your Pocket is a wonderful
source of boutique hotels, spas and great little bars.
Elle
Detailed, carefully researched guides.
Daily Mail
Solid, reliable information on everything from where to
book a good B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.
The Guardian
In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
Concentrating on both well-known and more offbeat
European destinations, In Your Pockets guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated.
The Independent
The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike
many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing
about.
The Irish Times
With so many European cities now within easy range,
the In Your Pocket website is a (literally) priceless first
stop before your holiday.
The Times
In Your Pocket guides are each written by an English
language writer who lives locally.
Sueddeutsche Zeitung
The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets have turned
out to be highly useful in avoiding tourist traps and
other travel hazards. They have become a European
publishing phenomenon.
International Herald Tribune
Atmospheric summer nights in Vilnius
LGBT
Attitudes towards minority groups in Lithuania are slowly
changing for the better, with a handful of brave individuals spearheading campaigns for equal rights armed with
both courage and a firm understanding of Lithuanian law.
One such person is the gay young Lithuanian film director Romas Zabarauskas, who in 2012 along with a number
of local LGBT activists launched a campaign encouraging
restaurants and bars in Vilnius to display an LGBT Friendly
sticker on their doors. An overwhelming success, this summer the project intensified with the publication of a map of
Vilnius marked with the venues that have so far signed up
to the sticker campaign. Available for free at an increasing
number of places around town including restaurants, bars,
hotels and tourist information centres, the previously unthinkable maps offer visitors to the city, regardless of their
sexual orientation, a simple way of knowing where Vilnius
liberal-minded residents choose to go out and enjoy themselves. Published in July, the first map was given away in a
symbolic gesture of solidarity to Stuart Milk, the nephew
of the iconic gay rights activist and politician Harvey Milk
(1930-1978), who in a rather neat closing of the circle was
of Lithuanian origin.
Nightlife
Soho
One main space for drinking and chatting and another for
dance-orientated activities both sub-divided even further
and decorated in a somewhat eclectic yet rather fetching style.QG-4, vitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395 67,
www.sohoclub.lt. Open 22:00 - 07:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free - 6. PAW
Adult entertainment
Dolls
Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in
the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best
in town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad
flesh before you, above you and possibly even beneath
you for a price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from
Old Town to visit the Barbie of your dreams.QA-00, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82, www.oldtown.lt.
Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 20. PA
Old Town Strip Club
Expect a thumping, throbbing, erotically charged escapade.
These ladies dont mess around when its show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys. The hardcore Eros on
display here is unparalleled in this city, but the very best part
might just be the deliciously innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their clothes on.QC-4, Rdnink 14,
tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Open 20:00 - 06:00.
Closed Sun. Entrance 20. PJA
57
What to see
The Lithuanian capitals first period of growth took
place immediately south of todays Cathedral Square,
eventually becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque,
Gothic, Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now
known as Old Town. Although most people flock to the
city to visit this undeniable gem, there are plenty of other things to see when in town, from the very Lithuanian
eccentricities encountered over the imaginary border in
the self-styled Republic of Uupis to the few remaining
relics of a once thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet-era masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a
reasonably interesting collection of museums and galleries, put some decent parks in the spaces in-between
and youll find it hard to not find a reason to visit.
Essential Vilnius
Dawn Gate (Auros Vartai)
Completed in 1522, the Dawn
Gate (or Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama)
as its known to the Poles) is the
only remaining gate from the citys
original defensive walls. As was
common at the time, an image of
the Virgin Mary was placed above
all gates to protect the city, and the
story of the Dawn Gate starts from
this simple historic fact. The current
image, known as The Blessed Virgin
Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted
on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver about 40 years
after that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above
the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic healing
powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by both
the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important
part of the citys cultural heritage that it remained open
throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is
open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the
left as youre walking up the hill.QC-5, Auros Vart 12,
tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Open 06:00 - 19:00. Mass 07:30
(Latin), 09:00, 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun
09:00 (Polish), 09:30, 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish),
18:30. J
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis
ir Muziejus) Dating from
the 13th century the castle was
rebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke
Vytautas following the great fire
of Vilnius. In 1610 it was used as
a prison for the ruling classes,
and during the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and
defensive walls were almost
completely destroyed, with serious albeit only partial restoration work beginning (presumably by the Poles) as late
Cathedral
C athed r al Basilica of St.
Stanislaus &
St. Ladislaus
(Vilniaus v.
Stanislovo ir
v. Vladislovo Arkikatedra Bazilika)
The most important Catholic building in Lithuania,
Vilnius Cathedral
as its more usually known was
first built in 1251
by a newly converted Grand Duke
Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple.
Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas death in 1263,
the church was given back to the Catholic Church on
the countrys official conversion to Christianity in 1387,
although the building that now stands in its place
has little to do with the original structure. The current
building dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and additions made after that. Its present NeoClassical form is largely down to the work of the Lithuanias first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Guceviius
(Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-1798), who was also
responsible for a number of other notable buildings in
the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave
betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see
High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-1484), Lithuanias patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains,
the chapel is one of the countrys national treasures.
The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir
on the roof, supposedly representing Poland, Russia
and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century
originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets in 1950, the year the building was confiscated
from the Catholics. Spending several years as an art
gallery and even mooted as a car repair workshop at
one time, the Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful
Sjdis Congress and was re-consecrated on February
5, 1989. The 57-metre free-standing bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting place, was originally part
of one of the gates in the citys defensive wall and has
been added to several times over the centuries which
gives it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in
2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bakis in a special
ceremony.QC-2, Katedros 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 27,
www.katedra.lt. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Mass 08:00,
17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30,
17:30, 18:30 (Latin). J
What to see
as 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of the castle as
it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the buildings history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day
is recommended. The walk to the top is a bit of a struggle
for many, although there are benches thoughtfully provided along the way. Alternatively, use the funicular-type
train (tickets 1.5/1) which runs up and down the hills
northern slope. Find it hidden in a courtyard immediately
west of the Applied Art Museum on Arsenalo.QC-1, Castle
Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53. Open 10:00 - 17:00 (October
1 - March 31). Open 10:00 - 19:00 (April 1 - September
30). Admission 2/1. J
Genocide Victims Museum (Genocido Auk Muziejus) The sign outside reads
that between 1940 and 1991 this
building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD and
KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits
inside relate almost exclusively to
the period of oppression and the
so-called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime. Understandably
a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people wishing
to understand this often bleak and violent period in the
countrys history, what the sign fails to point out is that
between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by
the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the
vast majority of the citys Jewish population with the willing participation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat
bizarrely, almost completely overlooked, although the
recent addition of a room dedicated to just this issue is a
welcome addition. Controversy aside, as a testament to
the suffering endured by the ethnic Lithuanians, especially
under the lunacy of Stalin, the place is a must-see for any
visitor to Vilnius.QG-4, Auk 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64,
www.genocid.lt/muziejus. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2/1. J
St. Annes Church (v. Onos Banyia)
Unquestionably one of the citys most famous landmarks
and quite rightly so, the history of St. Annes starts with
the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the
wife of Vytautas the Great. The first historical records of a
church here date from 1394, although the current Gothic
masterpiece is believed to have been built between 1495
and 1500 to a design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), most famous for designing parts of
Prague Castle. Unlike other historical churches in Vilnius,
St. Annes has managed to escape the ravages of time
almost unscathed and is arguably the least changed
of them all. Composed of 33 different styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole, the effect is
simply quite stunning. Its been said the faade incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the countrys earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at
it. The interior is surprisingly free of

ostentation, although this is hardly
needed due to the spectacular
design of the structure. The freestanding bell tower has nothing to
do with the original design, being
built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor
Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted hed like to
take the building back to Paris in the
palm of his hand.QD-3, Maironio 8,
www.onosbaznycia.lt. Open 17:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon (October 1 - April 30). Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Mon (May 1 - September 30). Mass 18:00,
Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas) Established in 1579 and one of the oldest
universities in Eastern Europe, the
splendid ensemble that makes up
Vilnius Universitys main campus
buildings embraces just about every major architectural style of the
last 400 years. Originally belonging to the Catholic Church, the
University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and
has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th
and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past
students whove studied here include the Polish Romantic
poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Sowacki, the Lithuanian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him
on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel
Prize-winning author Czesaw Miosz. As well as housing
the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also
famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on
your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12
Vilnius Cathedral Belfry

Closed for more than a decade, the Belfry of Vilnius
Cathedral finally reopened
to visitors. One of the citys
defining monuments, the
tower, which originally
formed part of the citys
13th century defensive wall,
became a belfry in the 16th
century. 57 metres tall it
was remodelled and given
its current look in the 19th century. Besides offering
views from the top, the tower also hosts an exhibition
of bells and documents the buildings reconstruction.
QC-2, Katedros 2, tel. (+370) 600 120 80, www.
bpmuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
4.50/2.50. JA
59
What to see
or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights
the correct number should be 12 as one of them only
has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during
construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well
worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto
7 explaining where everything is.QC-2/3, Universiteto 3,
tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.muziejus.vu.lt. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun (March 1 - October 31). Open 09:30
- 17:30. Closed Sun (November 1 - February 28). Admission 1.50/0.50. J
Museums & Galleries

Applied Arts Museum
(Taikomosios Dails Muziejus) Housed inside what was
the far northeast corner of the
citys original defensive walls, of
which some including an original
gate can still be seen inside, this
worthy inclusion into the citys
national treasures is stuffed full of
good things to see, among them
little models of how the city once
looked, furniture, paintings and much more besides.
Among the permanent exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred Lithuanian art including examples from
both the Catholic and Orthodox Churches dating back as
far as the 15th century. Temporary exhibitions also take
place throughout the year.QD-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370)
5 262 80 80, www.ldm.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.74/0.87. J
Kazys Varnelis
Museum
(Kazio
Varnelio
Muziejus) The amazing
thing about this gallery,
available to tour by appointment only, is the
juxtaposition between
photo by Howard Jarvis
centuries-old antiques
and the dizzying abstract patterns of paintings by Kazys Varnelis (1917-2010).
Varnelis escaped Lithuania in the 1940s and earned moderate fame and fortune for his artworks in America. An
avid art collector too, he returned to Lithuania in 1998
and brought his immense collection with him, which can
now be seen in this mindboggling museum. If no one is
answering the phone, try sending an email to: k.varnelio.
muziejus@lnm.lt.QC-4, Didioji 26, tel. (+370) 5 279 16
44, www.lnm.lt. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
By appointment only. Admission free. J
Lithuanian Radio & Television Museum
(Lietuvos Radijo ir Televizijos Muziejus)
A little gem of a corridor lined with several large, glassfronted displays showcasing the history of radio and
television in Lithuania from its

inception through to the modern
day. Among the old radio sets, costumes and photographs of stars
you wont recognise is a fabulous
selection of things dedicated to
the tragic events of January 13,
1991, including the telephone used
by Lithuanian television bosses to
communicate with the KGB and a video camera complete
with a smashed lens, courtesy of an unknown Russian soldier who shot it with his rifle.QF-5, Konarskio 49 (inside
the LRT building), tel. (+370) 5 236 32 14, www.lrtc.lt.
Open by appointment only. Admission free.
Lithuanian
Railway
Museum
(Lietuvos
Geleinkeli Muziejus) Recently moving
to much larger premises inside the train
station itself, the Lithuanian Railway
Museum may not be to everybodys
taste, but is still worth a visit if youre
in the area, or for that matter if youve
got a while to wait for your train. Made
up of three main exhibition halls the museum charts the
history of the railways in Lithuania, looks at some of the
technical aspects of trains and the tracks they run on, is
bursting with old railway-related paraphernalia and also
has a couple of models that children can play with. Find
it to the right of the main entrance to the station.QB-6,
Geleinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel. (+370) 5 269 37 41,
www.litrail.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 1.16/0.58. J
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lietuvos Teatro, Muzikos ir
Kino Muziejus) Originating
in 1926 as a theatre museum and
slowly collecting departments and
exhibits over the decades until it
became what it is today, this mildly
interesting cultural diversion inside
a glorious 18th-century former palace and theatre charts
the Lithuanian history of the three arts. Among several
badly ventilated rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century
theatre posters and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including several displays
given over to the life of the actress Un Babickait (aka.
Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum of
cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The
museum also features several temporary exhibitions of
painting and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard the place from pestering you every couple
of minutes you might just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the building.QB-3, Vilniaus
41, tel. (+370) 5 231 27 24, www.ltmkm.lt. Open 11:00
- 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 2./1.40. J
What to see
INterpretatIoN, traNSlatIoN aNd GuIdeS
more than 20 years of experience

63 languages
more than 400 interpreters,
translators and guides
Vilnius
Bernardin g. 9-4, tel. +370 5 212 29 24
Kaunas
I. Kanto g. 21-4, tel. +370 37 20 99 97
Klaipda
S. imkaus g. 21-4, tel. +370 46 41 18 14
Need an interpretation or translation? our interpreters,

translators and guides can help you understand more about Lithuania.
Money Museum (Pinig
Muziejus) Featuring five small
rooms on two floors celebrating
the history of world and Lithuanian
money, despite the inclusion of lots
of fancy interactive bits and bobs
and plenty of information in English, this relatively new museums
best attribute is the fact that its
free to enter. If moneys your hobby
then theres no doubt its worth a
visit. If it isnt, then it probably isnt.
QB-2, Totori 2/8, tel. (+370) 5 268 00 77, www.lb.lt/
lb_pinigu_muziejus. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun (April 1 - October 31). Open
09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun (November 1 - March 31). Admission free. J
National Art Gallery
(Nacionalin Dails
Galerija) Found inside
a renovated and enlarged
building that once housed
the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet
Socialist Republic, this bold
endeavour showcases the
work of a multitude of artists
of Lithuanian origin from the
20th and 21st century. The
museum is organised to highlight particular styles, eras

and political attitudes to art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century and also stages temporary
exhibitions that are well worth visiting.QG-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg.lt. Open 11:00 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 1.74/0.87. JAW
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis
Muziejus) Lithuanias oldest museum, parts of the
collection inside this intriguing history lesson date
back to the 13th century.
On permanent display are
religious and secular items
highlighting the cultural
and ethnographic life of
the nation, including recreations of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings
and much more. Also to
be found are some of the
things unearthed in the
mass grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also puts on temporary shows, of which some are
truly outstanding. A vital key for unlocking the secrets of
the Lithuanian people.QC-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262
94 26, www.lnm.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 2/1. J
61
What to see
Toy Museum (aisl Muziejus)
Inspired by similar initiatives
in Europe and around the
world, this recently opened
interactive museum is a private venture aimed at children of all ages from four to
90. Tracing the history of toys
and games from around the
12th century onwards, the museum features exhibits including a whirligig dating from the 14th century that was
found during excavation work nearby, teddy bears galore
and some simple wooden vehicles made in Lithuania during the Soviet period. Indeed, most of the original items on
display date from the Soviet period and as such offer a fascinating insight into the former everyday lives of children
behind the Iron Curtain. Many of the things on display are
there to be touched, played with and generally mauled,
making the place a really recommended place for visitors
to the city with children in tow who are already fed up with
churches and the like. Not the easiest place to find in the
world, keep an eye out for the sign on the wall along with
a lot of other signs. Entrance is through the door just to the
right.QD-2, iltadario 2/7, tel. (+370) 604 004 49, info@
zaislumuziejus.lt, www.zaislumuziejus.lt. Open 14:00
- 18:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon (September 1 - May 31). Open 12:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun (June 1 - August 31).
Admission 4 /3.00 /2.50. J
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveiksl Galerija) Housed inside the charming 17th-century
Chodkeviiai (Chodkiewicz) family
palace, this splendid little museum
is of the type in which a menagerie
of middle-aged ladies shuttle you
around from room to room like
a pinball. Ignore them if you can,
and enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture
plus a couple of rooms stuffed full
of exemplary furniture, all of it representing the last several hundred
years of achievement. They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth checking out.
QC-3, Didioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.lt.
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.74/0.87. J
Vytautas Kasiulis Art
Museum (Vytauto Kasiulio Dails Muziejus)
Opened to coincide with Lithuanias 2013 Presidency of the
Council of the European Union
and housed inside a fine Neoclassical building dating from the
first decade of the 20th century,
this combined museum and art gallery contains a permanent collection of work by the Lithuanian-born artist
Vytautas Kasiulis (1918-1995) who escaped Lithuania in
1944 for Austria and then Germany and who from 1948
until his death spent the rest of his life living and working
in Paris. The museum also has space for temporary exhibitions and plays host to a range of music concerts.QA-0, A.
Gotauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 67 64, kasiuliomuziejus@
ldm.lt, www.ldm.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 1.74/0.87. J
Churches
Bernardine
Church
&
Monastery
(Bernardin Banyia ir
Vienuolynas) Once forming part of the citys original
defensive walls and constructed
on the site of an earlier wooden
church dating from the middle
of the 15th century at the behest
of an order of Bernadine monks,
the current vast Gothic church
with Baroque and Renaissance
additions dates from the early
part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs
on display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of the
building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who
among other things allegedly incorporated parts of the
interior into the works of art the academy was producing.
Returned to the monks soon after independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to this day. Current
highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the
oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th
century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part
of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and
independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed
soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a
barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of
the citys Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building
now houses the Vilnius Art Academy.QD-3, Maironio
10, tel. (+370) 616 011 59, www.parapija.bernardinai.lt.
Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Mass Mon,
Tue 07:30, Wed, Thu, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00,
Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
Church of Sts. Michael
& Constantine (v. Konstantino ir Michailo
Cerkv) Built in 1913 at the
very end of tsarist rule within
the city as part of the 300th anniversary celebrations of the
Romanov Dynasty, this rather
absurd-looking Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts
for its garish green domes. On
What to see
closer inspection, the church, which supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and Suzdal styles, is a
beautiful design, as early postcards showing the original
dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain, and
only really recommended for serious enthusiasts.QG-4, J.
Basanaviiaus 27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. J
Church of the Apparition of the Holy
Mother of God (Znamenskaya) Built in 1903
and topped with several
beautiful Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best
loved Russian Orthodox
churches in Vilnius. Among
the numerous icons hanging inside are potted plants
that make the place feel really alive. Next to the icons
are special prayers for each
saint, but as everything in
the church is written in Old
Church Slavonic youll need a translator to help work
them out. The church was fully restored inside and out in
2009QG-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370) 5 275 13 75. Open
09:00 - 16:30. Service Sat 10:00, 16:00, Sun 09:00.
Church of the Holy
Cross (v. Kryiaus
Banyia) On the other
side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this
charming little churchs history dates back to 1543 and the
building of a chapel on the site
to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly
added to over the centuries,
including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the church is
now more or less late Baroque
in appearance with a few rococo flourishes, and is notable
as being the only church in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The small
interior is well worth having a peep at if the main doors
arent bolted as they usually are, the most outstanding
feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother of Snow on
the high altar, a copy of which can be found on the fresco
over the main entrance. The small square in which the
church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust
of Laurynas Stuoka-Guceviius (1753-1798), Lithuanias
first serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St.
Ladislaus among other buildings in the city.QB-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. Mass 17:15, Sun 09:30,
12:00. J
europos parkas
Europos Parkas (Open Air Museum of
the Centre of Europe) Founded in 1991 by
the Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Karosas, this wildly
different and recommended countryside excursion
brings together a number of names in local and international sculpture including Karosas himself, the Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz as well as Dennis
Oppenheim and the late Sol Le-Witt from the United
States to create a vision that in the words of the parks
founder give[s] an artistic significance to the geographic centre of the European continent. Featuring
close on 100 works by artists from countries as diverse
as Armenia, Japan and Venezuela, the park is spread
out over 55 hectares of rolling hills and woodland and
includes static and interactive art as well as the now
infamous Info Tree, Karosas crumbling shrine to propaganda made up of some 3,000 televisions with a prostrate Lenin at its centre. With the addition of a restaurant and gift shop, the park offers a splendid few hours
away from the city for people of all ages. To get there
by car, take Kalvarij north to the Santariks roundabout, turn right towards the Green Lakes (alieji
Eerai) and follow the signs. Buses leave from the
algirio stop on Kalvarij, including a minibus N146
to Skirgiks which goes all the way to the park itself.
Alternatively, bus N36 goes part of the way there but
requires the last couple of kilometres to be made on
foot.QJoneikiks, 10km north of Vilnius, tel. (+370)
5 237 70 77, www.europosparkas.lt. Open 10:00 two hours before sunset. Admission 8/6/4.
Magdalena Abakanowicz. Space of Unknown Growth.
63
What to see
The International
Church of Vilnius
English language ecumenical worship
Sundays at 9.30 a.m.
All welcome!
Mid-week activities (from September):
Mondays: Ladies Bible study
Wednesdays: 6 p.m. Fellowship & Bible study
How to find us:
The church is located at
Vokiei gatv 20
(go through the archway

and iron gates: the church
entrance is on the left under
the bell tower)
How to contact us:

www.vilniuschurch.org
Pastor Jim Wagner: +370 (8) 636 35565
Email: internationalchurchofvilnius@gmail.com
Church of the Holy

Mother of God (Skaisiausios Dievo Motinos Cerkv) Originally
dating back to the middle of
the 14th century, this slightly
unusual-looking church which
also functions as the citys Russian Orthodox Cathedral and
that as such is often referred to
as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius owes much of its
partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of tsarist rule in
Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius University
who divided it into two floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection rooms for anatomy classes inside. In
1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks
before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian
appearance and used as a house of worship towards the
end of the 1860s.QD-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370) 5 215 37
47. Open 10:00 - 17:00. J
Church of the Holy Spirit (ventosios
Dvasios Banyia) Like many of the citys churches, the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on
the site of a former wooden house of worship that met a
fiery fate. The current buildings appearance started tak64 Vilnius In Your Pocket
ing shape towards the end of

the 14th century. In 1501 it was
given to an order of Dominican
monks who built a monastery
nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th
century when the church was
rebuilt after serious fire damage.
Inside is a wealth of Baroque and
rococo splendour, well worth
further investigation. Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius Polish Catholic
communitys main church, remained opened throughout
the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the
churchs crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst
some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from
the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly
victims of the plague.QB-3, Dominikon 8, tel. (+370) 5
262 95 95. Open 14:00 - 18:30. Mass only in Polish 15:00,
18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J
Evangelical Lutheran
Church (Evangelik Liuteron Banyia) Built
in 1555, two years after the first
German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have arrived in
Vilnius, the crowning glory of
this small Gothic and Baroque
church on the street named after
the citys German community is
the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz
(Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian of
German extraction and the citys foremost architect at the
time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court under
the Communists, the building was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant
house of worship for the capitals multi-denomination,
English-speaking Christians. In addition to the weekly
English-language worship at 9:30 every Sunday, the International Church of Vilnius runs midweek Bible studies,
courses to explore the Christian faith and various social
events. For more information see www.vilniuschurch.
org.QB-4, Vokiei 20, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 25, www.
vilniuschurch.org. Service Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00,
Fri 17:00, Sun 09:30 (English, Ecumenical Protestant),
11:00 (Lithuanian). J
Franciscan Church (Prancikon Banyia) The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th
century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling
Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both
inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst
the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on
the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly movvilnius.inyourpocket.com
What to see
ing forwards. At the time of
our last visit, the Chapel of the
Virgin Mary, complete with a
statue of the lady reputed to
have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion,
giving some indication of how
things will eventually look.
QB-4, Trak 9-1, tel. (+370)
5 261 42 42. Mass 17:30
(Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish),
Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30
(Polish), 13:00 (Polish). J
Holy Trinity Church
& Basilian Gate (v.
Trejybs Cerkv ir
Bazilijon Vartai)
Consisting of a church,
monastery, belfry and
beautiful rococo gate, with
the exception of the latter
much of it in a state of
hideous disrepair, the Holy
Trinity Church originally
dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic,
Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas
Ostrogikis, ca. 1460-1530), the church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in the middle of the 18th
century, belongs to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church,
a peculiar faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as Gods representative
on Earth. The church is a complete mess inside, almost
completely empty with the exception of some wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. Theres also
a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation work
is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767).QC-5, Auros Vart 7b, tel. (+370) 5
212 25 78. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Service only in Ukrainian
07:00, 09:00, 17:00 18:30, Sat 07:45, 09:00, Sun 10:00,
12:00, 17:30. J
Orthodox Church
of St. Paraskeva
(Pyatnickaya) Dating
back to the middle of the
14th century and itself built
on the site of what many
believe to be a former
pagan place of worship,
the charming albeit somewhat diminutive Orthodox
Church of St. Paraskeva
can not only claim to have
been the first church in Vilfacebook.com/VilniusInYourPocket
Sts. Johns Church

Belfry
The belfry of the magnificent Sts. Johns Church - separate from the church itself - is, at 60 metres, the tallest
building in the Old Town. It was erected in the 16th
century, before being remodelled in a late-Baroque
style in the 18th century. Climb the stairs to the top
for great views of the Old Town. There is also a lift for
the less fit.QC-3, v. Jono 12, tel. (+370 ) 5 219 30
29, www.muziejus.vu.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:30 (May,
September). Open 11:00 - 19:30 (June, July, August).
Admission 2.50/1.50. J
nius to be made of stone but is also the alleged location
of the baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the
African prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin
who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from the
part of Africa thats now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of
the Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt
on several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around
the time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned
for seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt
in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening
a year later as a museum of painting before being returned
to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a
Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday.QC-3,
Didioji 2. J
65
What to see
STATUES THAT SPEAK
The Lithuanian capital has quite a collection of statues figures in metal and stone in a clashing array of
styles that reflect the past decades changing political
passions or, more recently, the strange cultural quirks
of the artists themselves.
Now they can talk. Fifteen sculptures dotted in and
around the Old Town can call you up on your phone
for a chat. The personages will tell you who they are,
about things that interest them, what happened to
them while they were alive and the places where they
now find themselves. Inspired by similar projects in
other cities, the Modern Art Centre has animated these
stiff effigies and bulky busts with texts and voices by
some of Lithuanias most prominent writers and performers.
Simply walk up to a statue, connect to the internet
on your smartphone, go to the website indicated
and swipe your phone on the nearby tag. Choose the
language and youll get an incoming call. It might be
zany American singer Frank Zappa on the line if youre
standing next to his statuette at K.Kalinausko Street 1,
or mighty medieval Grand Duke Gediminas if youre in
his shadow on Cathedral Square. Or it might be 20th
century French writer Romain Gary calling you up, if
youre by the statue on the corner of Mindaugo and
J.Basanaviiaus showing him as a boy planning to eat
one of his shoes in an attempt to impress the girl next
door.
The callers often speak in thick local accents, with
overzealous enthusiasm, and leave listeners none the
wiser about their lives. Beside her unsightly statue on
Vokiei, Barbora Radvilait speaks a bit about her
secret marriage to a Polish king. But all the visionary
architect Laurynas Stuoka-Guceviius seems to talk
about, from his comically threatening statue on the
street named after him, is how long his name is, barely
mentioning the beautiful buildings he designed.
Other stories are just dreamed up. By the bridge
to Uupis, a mermaid says she is afraid of water and
was carried to this place by a flood, where she enjoys
chatting to newlyweds and passers-by and begs the
listener to stay with her a while longer. Meanwhile,
the Uupis Angel, in a slow, deep whisper like Serge
Gainsbourg, says he turns on magical forces in the sky,
like the rain.
For more on how it works and to download a map
showing where in Vilnius the talking sculptures are, go
to www.mmcentras.lt and click on domybs.
Orthodox
Church
of the Holy Spirit
(Staiatiki v. Dvasios Cerkv) Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly now the
combined work of the citys
most renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas
Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who
spent four years on the rococo
design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century
Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is
comprised of the church, a free-standing bell tower,
monastery and convent although its the church interior
thats of most interest, being positively bursting with
frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and
green colours. A particular quirk of the churchs crypt
saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century
as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of
Algirdas whose remains are displayed dressed in white
at Christmas, in black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of June 26 when theyre put
on display entirely naked.QC/D-5, Auros Vart 10, tel.
(+370) 5 212 77 65. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Service 08:00,
17:00, Sun 07:00, 10:00, 17:00. J
Reformed
Evangelical
Church (Evangelik Reformat Banyia) The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose three traditional strongholds still exist in Birai, Kdainiai and
Vilnius, dates back to John Calvins
lifetime in 1557, although this particular church, considered one of
the finest examples of Neo-Classical
architecture in the country, was built
considerably later between 1830 and
1835. The work of one of the best
local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podainskis
(Pol. Karol Podczaszyski, 1790-1860), the church was closed
by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact
the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still
in use.QA-3, Pylimo 18, tel. (+370) 686 360 01, www.ref.
lt. Open by appointment only. Service in Lithuanian Sun
11:00. J
St. Casimirs Church (v. Kazimiero Banyia) St. Casimirs in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuanias patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon
(1458-1484), construction on the mighty building began in
1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground just
20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again within the next century in 1709
and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and astronovilnius.inyourpocket.com
What to see
mer Tomas ebrauskas (Pol.
Thomas Zubrwka, 17141758) restored it to more or
less the form its seen in today. Over the centuries the
church fell into the hands
of the Augustinians, Napoleons Grande Arme, the
Russian Orthodox Church
(who significantly altered its
appearance), the Lutherans
(who used it as the garrison
church for the occupying
German Army during WWI)
and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole
place into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the
Catholic Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in
1991 and has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic
and Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are
three late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17thcentury crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs.QC-4, Didioji 34, tel. (+370) 5
212 17 15. Open 10:00 - 18:30. Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00
(Russian), 10:30, 12:00. J
St. Nicholas Church
(v. Mikalojaus Banyia) Pre-dating the countrys
conversion to Christianity by
some seven decades, Vilnius
oldest surviving church was built
in 1320 by German merchant
immigrants. Mentioned for the
first time in 1387, the impressive,
classic red brick Gothic exterior
remains pretty much as it looked
the day it was finished with the
interior having received numerous changes and additions over
the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the
Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the
only church in the city open to the citys small Lithuanianspeaking Catholic community.QB-4, v. Mikalojaus 4, tel.
(+370) 5 262 30 69. Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun
08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
St. Nicolas Church
(v. Nikolajaus Cerkv) The forerunner to
this church supposedly
dates back to the second
decade of the 16th century,
belonging from 1609 until
1827 to the Uniate Church.
At some time during the
18th century the original
church burnt down and
was replaced soon after in
the Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic communities in
the city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General
Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church
with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With
its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox
dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses
of worship in the capital.QC-4, Didioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261
85 59. Services Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
Sts. Johns Church (v. Jon Banyia)
Built at the same time as Lithuanias conversion to Christianity
in 1387, albeit with numerous
radical alterations through the
centuries, the vast and imposing Sts. Johns Church was given
to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by
Zygmunt II August (ygimantas
Augustas, 1520-1572). On the
dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church was
handed over to the adjoining
University. The present building, which contains elements
of all of the major architectural
styles associated with Old Town boasts an extraordinary
and predominantly Gothic interior whose crowning glory
is its organ of which parts date back to an organ that came
from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the
largest in country and that received a complete overhaul
in stages between 1974 and 2000, is used extensively in
classical concerts the church is now famous for. Note that
the church is part of the Vilnius University complex and
cant be visited seperately: you will need a ticket from the
university itself.QC-3, v. Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55,
www.muziejus.vu.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Mass Tue - Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J
Sightseeing tours
Oreivysts Centras (Ballooning Centre) As well as organising a wealth of balloon-related
activities nationwide, these people also offer balloon
trips over Vilnius and locations around the country.
The trips are well priced and last on average about
one hour.QA-0, Ups 5, tel. (+370) 652 005 10, www.
ballooning.lt. By appointment. Open April 1 - October 31. J
Vilnius City Tour
Tours of the historic centre in a number of languages.
Also audio guides available.QC-5, Auros Vart 7,
tel. (+370) 699 540 64, info@vilniuscitytour.com,
www.vilniuscitytour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 09:30 - 16:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 09:30
- 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00 (September 1 - May
31). JA
67
What to see
Sts. Peter & Pauls Church (v. Apatal
Petro ir Povilo
Banyia)
Believed to have been
built on the site of
a site of worship to
Milda, the pagan
goddess of love, this
breathtaking
Late
Baroque masterpiece
was commissioned
to celebrate victory
over the Russians
in 1668 by Michael
Casimir Pac, the
Grand Hetman of the
Lithuanian armies,
who never lived to
see its completion. Financed by two of Pacs cousins and
completed under several master craftsmen including
the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the
rather plain faade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro
Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli thats quite simply out of this
world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the 20th-century
altar containing a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio
Jzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which features real human hair
brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier
made of brass and glass beads and dating from 1905.QJ-3,
Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5 234 02 29. Open 09:00 - 16:30.
Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun 07:30, 08:30
(Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 (Polish), 18:00.
St. Theresas Church (v. Teress Banyia)
Probably Vilnius best surviving example of Early
Baroque religious architecture, work on the first
incarnation of St. Theresas
was completed in around
1650. Built at the behest
and expense of the then
Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stefan Pac),
the straightforward idea
behind its construction
was to create the most
beautiful church in the
city, a fact that can clearly
be seen by its elaborate
faade, predominantly the
work of the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647)
who also worked on St. Georges Chapel inside the citys
Cathedral. The spectacular and predominantly rococo
interior, much of it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks.QC-5, Auros Vart 14,
tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Mass 07:30,
17:30, 18:30, Sun 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 17:30, 18:30. J
Places of interest
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras)
Lithuania has the proud and noble
distinction along with at least six
other places of being smack in the
middle of Europe. The Lithuanian
claim stems from a 1989 ruling by
Jean-George Affholder of Frances
Institut Gographique National
who announced that the site lies
at Bernotai, close to the village of
Purnuks some 26km north of
Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving
out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Moltai and
looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the
construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may
go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation
placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius
is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation.
Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept
and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair
slightly ridiculous in the first place.
Hill of Three Crosses
(Trij Kryi Kalnas)
Legend has it that long ago seven
Franciscan monks were crucified
here. Originally erected in the 17th
century, Stalin had the crosses
removed and buried, and only in
1989 were they rebuilt according to
the original plans. The crosses are
a great symbol of both Lithuanian
mourning and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also
to be found at this spot.QX-1. J
Kenesa
The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim
are the smallest ethnic historical
community in Vilnius, with just
150 or so remaining members of a
people who settled in the region in
the 14th century. The Karaite, from
whom they get their name, are a
Jewish sect who can be traced back
to Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq)
who adhere to the Old Testament
and the Decalogue, but dont accept the Talmud. The
Lithuanian Karaite were originally Tatars living on the Black
Sea, almost certainly Muslim and who were converted
to the Karaite faith in the 13th century. Enigmatic and as
yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian Karaite, who
number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge of
extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorishlooking kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into
a warehouse. Like the countrys other remaining kenesa
in Trakai, the building is almost always locked.QF-3,
Liubarto 6.
What to see
Literat Gatv
Inspired by Aidas Marnass
poem Literat Gatv about
a wistful young man drinking and smoking with his
friends on the street of the
same name, the highly recommended
permanent
outdoor gallery on Literat
is dedicated to writers past
and present whove all left
their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media
prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from
Jonas Mekas to Czesaw Miosz to Romain Gary, the gallery,
all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings
in 2008 and now features over 100 superb pieces.QC-3,
Literat. J
M. K. iurlionis House
(M. K. iurlionio Namai)
Although more famous for his
painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas
iurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a
reputation as a composer. This
is the house in which the great
man lived for a short time in a
small room that can be visited.
The rest of the building, which
during iurlionis time was
both a family house and a shop,
features reproductions of his
paintings and a small concert space which stages musical productions: check the website to see when the next
performance is.QC-4, Saviiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24
51, www.mkcnamai.lt. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free. J
Palace of the Grand
Dukes of Lithuania
(Lietuvos Didiosios
K u nigaik t y st s
Valdov Rmai) A reproduction of an original building
dating back to the 15th century that for four centuries
served as the political and
cultural centre of the multiethnic, multi-faith Grand
Duchy of Lithuania and that
was demolished by the occupying Russians at the start of
the 19th century, the new Palace of the Grand Dukes of
Lithuania opened with much fanfare in 2009 as part of the
countrys thousandth anniversary only to be closed again
almost immediately due to a lack of anything to see inside
it. Widely criticised as a patriotic white elephant using up
vast amounts of money that should have been directed at
other more important (and original) historical buildings in
need of repair, the palace recently reopened its doors with
the help of a speech by the current Lithuanian president

Dalia Grybauskait. Permanent parts of the museum include a history of the development of the original building
and the parallel history that went with it, plus there are
plenty of temporary exhibitions promised for the future.
For up to date information about exhibitions and events
in English and seven other European languages, see the
palaces website.QC-2, Katedros 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 00
07, info@valdovurumai.lt, www.valdovurumai.lt. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 2.90/1.45. JA
Planetarium (Planetariumas)
A classic 60s sci-fi adventure
of the old school, Vilnius dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for pre-arra
nged tours of 15 people or more
or take your chance at the times
listed below if you number less
than 15 people in total. Featuring a galaxy of projectors
aimed at the inside of the buildings dome, shows include the
fabulously named Venture into
Space and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on nipiki,
immediately south of Konstitucijos.QA-00, Konstitucijos
12a, tel. (+370) 615 770 54, www.planetarium.lt. By appointment. Admission 2.90/2.03/1.74. J
Presidential Palace (Prezidentra)
The official residence of the
President of Lithuania, the palace started life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure
built at the behest of the citys
first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzbiec
(d.1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, the
building remained the home of
the cream of the citys Catholic
clergy until the 1795 Partition
when it became the residence
of Vilnius tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have
spent a night in the building over the centuries, among
them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy,
some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero
Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935) to name but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served several purposes
until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag
can be seen flying over the building when the president is
in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place
on Sundays at 12:00. From spring to the start of October, at
12:00-18:00, it is possible to enter the courtyard without
being part of an excursion.QC-2/3, S. Daukanto 3, www.
lrp.lt. Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place on
Fridays and Sundays. Tours are limited to 25 people. For
more information, see www.lrp.lt or call tel. (+370) 706
640 73. J
69
What to see
Seimas (Parliament)
The word Seimas refers to
the Lithuanian parliament
and can be traced linguistically to the Polish word sejm,
meaning a gathering or assembly. With its origins in
the second half of the 15th
century, the contemporary
Seimas is based on the First
Seimas, which convened in
Kaunas in 1922-1923. The
work of architect brothers
Algimantas and Vytautas
Nasvytis, todays Seimas
building dates from 1982
and is unremarkable on
the outside with the exception of the remains of the barricades built to defend the self-proclaimed independent
Lithuanian Supreme Council building after Soviet forces
tried to reinstate a Moscow-backed government with the
storming of the Television Tower and other buildings in
the early hours of January 13, 1991. Located on the western side of the building, the barricades are protected by
huge sheets of glass but are clearly visible and retain the
original political graffiti of the time. A small exhibition
space has been added which will eventually hold public exhibitions related to the struggle for independence.
Also find a memorial to the people of Chechnya and the
diminutive Chapel of the Virgin Mary, dedicated to the
people of Lithuania who gave their lives whilst defending
the country in 1991. Guided tours of the Seimas run daily
during the week, and include details of the events of 1991
as well as a look at some of the interiors more interesting
features including Kazys Morknas extraordinary stained
glass windows. Tours must be booked two weeks in advance, and are in Lithuanian unless otherwise requested.
Curiously, the word seimas is also used to describe storks,
Lithuanias unofficial national bird, when they gather for
winter migration.QG-3, Gedimino 53, tel. (+370) 5 239
62 02, www.lrs.lt.
Stebuklas
About halfway between
the Cathedral and the bell
tower is the stebuklas, or
miracle. Essentially a piece
of stone believed to perform wonders and with
the word stebuklas written
on it, the site marks the
spot where one end of the
human chain of some two
million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on
August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on
the miracle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a
wish.QC-2, Arkikatedros Square. J
Television Tower (Televizijos Boktas)

The tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television
Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel
between 1974 and 1980 to a
design by V. Obydovas and K.
Balnas. On January 13, 1991
as the disintegration of the
USSR reached a frenzied pace
and Moscow attempted to
retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians.
The tower has since become a potent Lithuanian symbol.
Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those
who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets
are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the
small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition)
commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the
original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat
protesters and some disturbing photographs. The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift to visit
the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station isnt.
The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region
of 6. Alternatively, take trolleybus N 16 from the train station to the Televizijos Boktas stop. Ns 1 and 3 and bus
N 2G also stop nearby.QSausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 5
252 53 33, www.tvbokstas.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 22:00. Admission 6/2.60.
Town Hall (Rotu)
First mentioned in 1503,
the Town Hall most likely
dates from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was built at
the end of the 18th century.
In 1810 the governor general ordered that the Town
Hall housed a theatre,
which gave performances
on and off until 1924. Since
then its interior has been a
museum. Until the reestablishment of independence
it served as the Lithuanian
Art Museum. Today its the
Artists Palace where you
can see gallery art.QC-4,
Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 5
261 80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Fri 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Exhibitions held at
the Town Hall are open to visitors, but note that during
some events the building can be closed to the public.
Check the Town Halls website vilniausrotuse.lt for upto-the-minute information regarding opening times.
J
What to see
Monuments
Frank Zappa
Hot Rats! Deceased rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer, father of Moon Unit and all round creative
genius Frank Vincent Zappa (1940-1993) has had his head
immortalised in brass and stuck on a stainless steel pole
in a lacklustre courtyard just west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created by the late sculptor
Konstantinas Bogdanas (1926-2011) who once churned
out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being the
first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the
world. If youre now wondering what the connection between Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, dont. There isnt one.
QA-3, K. Kalinausko 1. J
Mindaugas
Taking pride of place outside the National Museum
since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary of the crowning of the countrys one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (Pol. Mendog, 1200-1263), whos generally considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit
of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal
affairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism
and back to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was
eventually assassinated by his nephew and served as
little more than a footnote in Lithuanian history until
he was resurrected by the national revival movement
of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis granite likeness of
the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne), from
which the Lithuanian language gets its word for capital,
sostin, literally the place where the throne is.QC-1,
Arsenalo 1. J
Uupis Angel
After a long and singularly strange career as an oversized
egg cup, the tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius breakaway
republic Uupis (where every dog has the right to be a
dog) finally gave birth to a long awaited angel on April 1,
2002, the official independence day of the wacky district.
After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony,
the covers were finally lifted, and in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel
was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being
rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor R.
Viliauskas, find it at the junction of Uupio and Maln.
QD-3, Uupio. J
Parks & Gardens

Although they like to flee en masse to the countryside
during the warmer part of the year, the good people of
Vilnius are also fond of spending time in the citys many
public green spaces. Regardless of the fact that theres very
little in the way of chaos to get away from, Vilnius parks
and gardens can still provide a welcome relief from the immediate concerns of the 21st century. Here are some of the
highlights.
Bernardin Sodas (Sereikiki Parkas)

Nestled inside a loop of the
Vilnia river just east of Old
Town, this immensely popular place for walks at any time
of year was once the site of
the citys late 18th-century
botanical gardens. Redesigned and renamed the
Youth Park after WWII, the
park has recently seen the
benefit of a massive investment and is looking better
than ever. Boasts loads of
avant garde fountains, rock
gardens and some of the
best childrens playgrounds in the city. Well worth your
time.QD-2, B. Radvilaits 6b. Open 07:00 - 22:00. J
Kaln Parkas
Covering some 25 hectares
immediately northeast of
Old Town at the confluence
of the Neris and Vilnia, Kaln
Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular
retreat for walks and, during
the summer, concerts on the
parks Soviet-era outdoor
stage. Also home to the Hill
of Three Crosses (see Places
of interest), the area the park
now occupies is shrouded
in a number of contentious
mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas (Gediminas Grave Hill) for example, one of the parks four hills and
now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the
countrys pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the
site where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania,
Grand Duke Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such
evidence exists to support the claim however.QX-1. J
Vingio Parkas
Situated to the west of the city
along the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering
160 hectares of pine woods was
famed as far back as the 16th
century. Its believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when
he received news of Napoleons
invasion in 1812, an event mentioned in Tolstoys War and
Peace. The park is more famous
these days as the setting for
rock concerts, firework displays,
jogging and the launching of
hot-air balloons during balmy
summer evenings. Also within its confines are a botanical
gardens and a fabulous little childrens zoo.QE-4.
71
What to see
Cemeteries
Vilnius extraordinary cemeteries offer an often emotional
and always interesting journey through the rich tapestry of
races and cultures that built the city. For information on the
citys two Jewish cemeteries, see Jewish Vilnius.
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapins) Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way back
in 1809, the so-called Soldiers Cemetery (Kari Kapins)
can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple
of kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers
graveyard, distinguished by undulating rows of identical
headstones, lies to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands
a small collection of Tartar graves complete with Islamic
symbols. To the left and deeper into the cemetery, large
Soviet soldiers guard the (no-longer burning) eternal
flame. To the soldiers right is the ghastly Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuanias dignitaries.
Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the red star
graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border
guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31,
1991 and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during
the January 1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Piet. Still in use, among the more notable recent additions are a large patch of grass surrounded by a tiny concrete wall and containing the remains of the Napoleonic
soldiers discovered in the city in 2002, and the final resting
place of the often overlooked Lithuanian composer Antanas Rekaius (1928-2003).QJ/K-2, Kari Kap 11.
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardin Kapins) Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic cemetery
in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four hectares on a
rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river, the cemetery
fell into disrepair soon after WWII before being finally shut
in 1970. Independence has seen it flourish with the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish governments, although
much work remains to be done. Of particular interest are
the columbaria, once used for holding urns full of ashes
and now slowly crumbling away. Among the eminent
university professors, scientists and painters buried here
find a few surprises including Geleda Dzerzhinskaja (18491896), whose claim to fame was giving birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas
Dzerinskis).QJ-4, virgdyno 3. J
Lithuanian Karaite & Tatar Cemetery
(Karaim ir Totori Kapins) Following the
destruction in the mid-1960s of the original cemetery in
Lukiks, the former traditional home of the citys Lithuanian Karaite and Tatar communities, a new cemetery was
opened in a remote area in the southern part of Vilnius
close to the airport. Among the graves, which are marked
in an extraordinary mixture of Hebrew (Lithuanian Karaite)
and Arabic (Tatar), is that of the Lithuanian Karaite scientist, historian and head of the Lithuanian and Polish Kara72 Vilnius In Your Pocket
ite communities Chadi Seraja Chan apalas (Pol. Hadi

Seraja Chan Szapsza, 1873-1961). The cemetery is still in
use, but is generally closed to visitors (although the fence
surrounding it is hardly very high). According to tradition,
women are forbidden from visiting. Find it on the stretch
of irni to the east of the road to the airport, before the
ski slopes on the north side.Qirni.
Rasos Cemetery (Ras Kapins)
Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of many of
the countrys social elite, this extraordinary cemetery
stretched over a large area divided by a main road is still
in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the
cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the
artist and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis
(1875-1911), the author and publicist Jonas Basanaviius
(1851-1927), whose grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19thcentury version of Lithuanian that predates its written
standardisation, and the heart of Marshall Jzef Pisudski
(1867-1935), the local-born Polish general who played a
key role in re-establishing Polish independence in 1918
as well as the countrys subsequent annexation of Vilnius
in 1920. Buried with his mother under a black granite slab
and surrounded by the graves of Polish soldiers, the rest
of him lies in Polands most sacred burial place under
Krakws Wawel Cathedral.QI/J-5, Ras/Sukilli.
Vingio Parkas Soldiers Cemetery (VIlniaus Vingio Parko Kari Kapins) A cemetery of one sort or another has been known to exist here
since victims of the plague were buried on the site in 1710.
During the German occupation of Vilnius during WWI the
cemetery was used for soldiers from the German, Turkish,
Polish and Russian armies. In 1948 at the height of the destruction of the final resting places of many of the former
inhabitants of the city, the Soviet authorities ripped up the
gravestones and the site lay abandoned until 1980 when it
was unceremoniously turned into a childrens playground
and public toilet. Thanks to the efforts of the Germans,
the 6.5 hectare site was renovated in 2001, with various
markers and a large monument placed where specific
burial sites were known to exist. At the eastern entrance
of Vingio Parkas, the cemetery offers a poignant glimpse
inside the former rich ethnic tapestry that once made up
the population of the city.QF-4, M. K. iurlionio.
Bernardine Cemetery
Jewish Vilnius
Jewish life
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch yd Religin Bendruomen) This
combined community centre and synagogue is engaged
in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening
those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and
sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born
Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in
Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at
which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with
kosher food.QD-4, Bokto 19/12, tel. (+370) 615 838 44.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Choral Synagogue (Choralin Sinagoga)
Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the only one out of
over 100 prewar Jewish prayer houses that still functions.
The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a
choir section, a feature considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it
was built.QH-4, Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Open
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. J
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos
yd Bendruomen) This is the countrys primary
address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide
range of cultural, communal and social services from kindergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable
Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperaviius), legendary
for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever
the community comes under challenge. Along with the
two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can
meet the genuine Jewish locals. The building also houses a
youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto
and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII
Jewish Veterans.QA-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 03,
www.lzb.lt. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Museums
Holocaust Exposition (Holokausto Ekspozicija) The smallest but most important and best known
component of the three addresses that collectively comprise
the citys Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also
known as the Green House) has been led for many years by
the indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel
Kostanian. The museum is famous for its accurate account
of the Holocaust in Lithuania and the massive local involvement in the actual killing. Its modest, old-fashioned exhibits
are far from high modern, but the heartfelt creation of local
Holocaust survivors. Outside is a small monument to Japans
pre-war Vice Consul to Lithuania, Chiune Sugihara, who issued
thousands of visas against orders, saving many Jews from certain death. Find it at the top of a steep driveway and invisible
to anyone simply walking along on the street below.QA-2,
Pamnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30, www.jmuseum.
lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat. Admission 3/1.10. J
jewish tours
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew
through the Baltics and Belarus.
Yulik Gurevitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09
Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85
Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56
Justina Petrauskait Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
Daniel Gurevich Tel. (+370) 655 174 91
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Paneri Memorialinis Muziejus) Between July 1941, and
August 1944, approximately 100,000 people were murdered at this site by the Nazis, assisted by some Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the Ypatingasis
Brys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic but necessary
part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithuania, find several
monuments and the remains of the pits where the victims were burned. The museum, inside a small building
on the murder site, features exhibits in a mix of languages including everything from stomach-churning
photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job
it was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold.
Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the
Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of
Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get
off at Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The
site is at the very end of the road. To get there by car,
drive out on Savanori in the direction of Kaunas until
you reach the E28 highway, peel off here and look for
the pitifully few signs put up in order to help you get
there. For a chilling, eye-witness account of the events
that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowiczs extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale.
QAgrast 17, tel. (+370) 662 895 75, zigmas.vitkus@
jmuseum.lt, www.jmuseum.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. By appointment only. Admission free for
individuals. For groups of up to 30 people 30, up to
15 people 16.
Statues & Memorials

Jewish Cemetery (yd Kapins)
By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were destroyed
after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy only a few
graves of famous people such as the Gaon of Vilna were moved
here in a concession to the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just before the war and nowadays,
especially on Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the
graves of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals.
The Gaons grave attracts visitors from many countries who
leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of the
entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery can be
obtained if its open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of
many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish
and English. To get there by public transport from the centre,
take bus N73 from the Lukiks stop or N43 from the station.
QE-1, Sudervs Kelias 28.
73
Trakai
castle
Drawing mild comparisons to the
vast, red brick Teutonic fortress in
the Polish town of Malbork, Trakai
Castle (or Trakai Island Castle as its
also known) may not be as grand
as its Germanic cousin to the west,
but what it lacks in stature it more
than makes up for in location. Sat
splendidly on a diminutive Lake Galv island in the northern end of the town, construction on this Gothic masterpiece began in the 14th century at the behest of the then
ruler of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania Kstutis, and was
completed at the start of the 15th century by his son, Vytautas the Great. Built as part of an expansion programme
of the neighbouring Peninsular Castle, its completion came
at more or less the same time that its military importance
came to an end after the victory of the combined PolishLithuanian armies led by Vytautas against the Teutonic
Order at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris) in
1410. Its second life as a residential palace saw it enter a
golden age, with the Castle visited and admired by many
foreign dignitaries including the Flemish diplomat Guillebert de Lannoy (1386-1462), who mentioned it favourably
in his memoirs. The Castles demise came with the war with
Muscovy in 1655, which saw it seriously damaged and
eventually abandoned. Attempts to rebuild it have been
ongoing since the 19th century, with the usual wars and
border changes complicating each new project as it arose.
Ironically it was during the Soviet occupation of Lithuania
that the Castle was eventually restored to its former glory,
with work beginning soon after the end of WWII. Reached
by crossing two footbridges and one island, access to the
shoreline around the Castle is free.
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trak
Pilis ir Trak Istorijos Muziejus) More like
playing a giant game of snakes and ladders designed by
MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai
History Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via
a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and
dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections
are to be found inside the western casemates (casements)
and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting
made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection of
items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the Karaite
and a few life-size models of medieval gentlemen with
enormous handlebar moustaches. Some explanations are
in English, but much remains in Lithuanian, Russian and
German only.QKstuio 4, tel. (+370) 528 539 46, www.
trakaimuziejus.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00 (May 1 - September 30). Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (March, April
and October). Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. (November 1 - February 28). Admission 5.21/3.48/2.32.
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights and one

of Lithuanias former medieval capitals, despite being
home to just 5,400 souls the town of Trakai and the national park its located in provide plenty of opportunities
for visitors to experience and enjoy this unique part of the
world. Crowned by a magnificent Gothic castle, the town
of Trakai is well known for its many different inhabitants
both past and present, among them Lithuanians, Jews,
Poles (who still make up a substantial percentage of the
population and who know the town as Troki), Russians,
Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkicspeaking offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement
who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of
the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the
border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius, Trakai is
both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy
of further attention thanks to the aforementioned park.
Arriving
Several ludicrously cheap buses leave daily from Vilnius bus
station, starting before dawn and running until the early
evening. The journey time is around 30-40 minutes. Trakais
bus station is a shabby concrete shell with no facilities whatsoever. As with the train station (see below) its also a ridiculously long way away from the main sights, a good 20-minute walk north up Vytauto. Starting and ending around the
same time as the buses although running less frequently,
trains take about 40 minutes to make the journey and cost
buttons. Taxis are usually parked outside both the bus and
train stations. A trip to the centre shouldnt cost more than
1.45. To reach Trakai by road, take the A1 (E85) highway
west out of the city, followed by the A4 in the direction of
Druskininkai before turning on to the A16 (E28) highway
which takes you the rest of the way. Driving time depends on
traffic, and can take anything from 20 minutes to an hour or
more. A taxi, if called in advance, will cost 17-29.
by bus
Bus Station QVytauto 90, tel. (+370) 528 513 33,
www.trakuautobusai.lt. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Arriving by train
Train Station QVilniaus 5, tel. (+370) 700 551 11,
www.litrail.lt. It works 15 minutes before train leaves.
Where to eat
To visit Trakai and not eat kibinai is like going to Japan
and circumventing the noodles. As well as the aforementioned Karaite speciality, the town can also provide
sustenance from one or two other corners of the world.
Dont expect too much in the way of fine dining, but do
be thankful that you wont have to pack sandwiches.
What little nightlife there is in Trakai tends to take place
in its restaurants, although a couple of clubs do open for
the summer. If in doubt, ask a local.
Trakai
Georgian
Pirosmani
Named after Georgias most famous painter, this large
round restaurant overlooks one of the towns lakes and
can be found on the walk into town on the left of the main
road. The menu is bursting with classic and extremely
good Georgian food, plus theres a small barbecue outside which churns out spectacular grilled meat during
the summer.QKaraim 2, tel. (+370) 528 561 78, www.
pirosmani.lt. Open 11:00 - 23:00. 4. PTULB
SW
Karaite
Karaim 13
This building made of whitewashed logs doesnt look very
Karaite at all. Its not colourful and its got more than three
windows. But it is very Karaite because its home to both
the Karaite Community Centre and a lovely little restaurant
with authentic Karaite food. The menu offers a range of
Karaite dishes that extend beyond the usual pastry pockets, and the service is pleasant and prompt. A good spot
tucked away from the meandering crowds.QKaraim 13,
tel. (+370) 528 519 11, www.karaimai.lt. Open 11:00 19:00. 4. JALBS
Kybynlar
In a word, magnificent. This hugely popular Karaite restaurant is a must-see for anyone visiting Trakai. Alongside
their delicious classic beef or mutton (not lamb, as it says
on the menu) kibinai is a small collection of other Karaite
dishes plus a few more of Turkic origin. Highly recommended is the orpa, a fabulous soup complete with big
lumps of beef and potato and just a hint of spicy warmth.
The small winter restaurant expands to mammoth proportions during the summer, making for a truly lively place to
eat and drink. They even do take-away.QKaraim 29, tel.
(+370) 528 551 79, info@kybynlar.lt, www.kybynlar.lt.
Open 11:00 - 22:00. 6. PTAUBSW
Trakai Castle, Photo by Trakai Tourism Information Centre
What to see
Theres still some way to go before Trakais up there with
Paris and Barcelona, but compared to how it was not so
long ago the towns cultural offerings have simply ballooned. The Castle is the obvious draw, but do make
time to see a few of the other treats the town has to
offer.
Places of interest
Uutrakis Palace
In its glory this mansion, built on land formerly occupied
by the local Tatar community, belonged to the prominent
Tikeviius (Polish, Tyszkiewicz) family who lived in it until
1939. Built in the 19th century in a neo-Renaissance style,
the palace itself is closed, but the grounds, designed by
the prominent French landscape gardener Edouard Andr
(1840-1911), have become something of a tourist attraction. During the summer this is a prime spot for a picnic or
horse riding. A walk around the palace grounds is free. To
get there in good weather, catch the passenger ship from
the Castle and be sure to mention you want to get off at
Uutrakis. Alternatively, a taxi will set you back somewhere
in the region of 7.QUtrakio 17, tel. (+370) 528 550 06,
www.seniejitrakai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon,
Tue (August 1 - September 30). Open 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu (October 1 - April 30). Admission 2.90/1.45.
75
Trakai
Trakai Historical National
Park
One of a total of five national parks in Lithuania, at just
8,200 hectares Trakai Historical National Park is the smallest but by no means the least interesting. Set amidst
gently rolling hills formed during the last Ice Age about
14,000 years ago, the park contains a total of 32 lakes,
senieji trakai
The Lithuanian capital for seven medieval years before

handing the baton over to Trakai, and an interesting
excursion for those with a developed interest in either
the history of Trakai or obscure Eastern European rural
churches, Senieji (Old) Trakai, 6km or so southeast of
Trakai, boasts two sights worthy of further investigation
for the hardcore tourist. The town itself is a dull square
of not particularly pretty wooden houses punctuated with the occasional Soviet monstrosity and sliced
through the middle by the first point of interest, Trak,
a continuation of the road from Trakai that at the time
of writing (December 2008) was completely dug up as
part of a beautification process that will see the street
become a tourist attraction in its own right. Trak is
lined with mostly wooden houses and supposedly represents many elements of a typical Dzkai village. You
decide. At Traks southernmost tip as it curves around
to the right is the site of the towns once grand castle.
This was the birthplace of Vytautas the Great, who in
1405 built a monastery here and settled an order of
Benedictine monks inside. The castle is long gone, but
the monastery remains, albeit in a poor state. In the
19th century part of the monastery was converted into
a neo-Gothic church, which functions as Senieji Trakais
main house of worship. Its relatively plain interior complete with peeling paint provides a rare glimpse inside
small-town Eastern European religious faith. Both the
monastery and church are undergoing renovation
work, but the church can still be visited. Senieji Trakai
provides no other forms of enlightenment or entertainment and cant even boast a caf. After spending an
hour or so here, its not hard to see why they moved
the capital up the road. The train station is 1km north
of the church and monastery. To get from the former
to the latter, turn right on exiting the station followed
by the first left onto Trak and follow the road all the
way down.
some truly spectacular scenery, one or two ethnographic

sights of particular interest and the town of Trakai itself.
A population of 14,000 rosy-faced locals, of whom many
remain tied to the land, sprinkle the park with humanity,
giving it an agreeable lived-in feel lacking in many other
rural areas in the country. The proud recipient of national
park status in 1992, Trakai Historical National Park is currently awaiting news of its application to become a Unesco World Heritage site. Things in its favour include its
aforementioned comeliness and the town inside it that
gives it its name, woodlands brimming with wildlife, traditional farmsteads and villages, manor houses, heaps of
fresh air and a sense of having gone back in time. Things
against, of which there are few, include a continuing lack
of infrastructure and a patchwork of narrow, hairpinstrewn roads occupied by drivers whove seemingly lost
the will to live and wish only to take you with them. For
more information about the park, visit the Trakai Historical National Park Information Bureau in Trakai or browse
the parks website online at www.seniejitrakai.lt.
Where to stay
Trakais accommodation options run the gamut from
leaky tents to presidential suites complete with wireless internet and Jacuzzis. The only exception is that
the town remains without a youth hostel, although for
good value central accommodation youll be pleased
to know that every other house has a room or two to
rent.
Apvalaus Stalo Klubas
About as feminine as it gets, a night here is like something straight out of Alice In Wonderland. Overlooking
the fairytale Gothic towers of the Castle, the interiors
appear to have been designed by a committee of hairdressers and old ladies. If you can handle the frill of it
all, extras include a sauna, two attached restaurants and
wireless internet throughout. This is truly the cream of
the crop, and by far the most expensive option in town.
QKaraim 53a, tel. (+370) 528 555 95, fax (+370)
528 517 60, info@asklubas.lt, www.asklubas.lt. 17
rooms (73 - 252). PTHAR6LKDW
hhhh
Trasalis
A veritable monster of a place 2km south of the town
centre, the owners have put their money where many
others mouths are and actually gone and taken a risk in
Trakai. A combined hotel, conference centre, water park
and many other things besides, the rooms are clean and
comfortable, all coming with cable television, free wireless internet and showers that knock you over when you
walk in. The price includes two hours in the water park
and an average buffet breakfast. A taxi to the Castle will
set you back around 3.QGedimino 26, tel. (+370) 528
515 88, fax (+370) 528 515 89, hotel@trasalis.lt, www.
trasalis.lt. 103 rooms (58 - 105). PHARU
FLKDCW hhh
Where to stay
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a room in
advance is recommended, especially so during the summer.
Cream of the crop

Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square QC-2,
Universiteto 14, tel. (+370) 5 220 11 00, reservations.
vilnius@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.com/vilnius.
hhhhh+
Radisson Blu Royal Astorija QC-4, Didioji
35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, info.vilnius@radissonblu.
com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. hhhhh
Ramada Hotel & Suites VilniusQC-5,
Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 255 33 55, hotel@
ramadavilnius.lt, www.ramadavilnius.lt. hhhhh+
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly

K Restaurant
J Old town location
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
I Fireplace
W Wi-Fi
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai Hotel QC-3, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, reservations@stikliaihotel.
lt, www.stikliai.com. hhhhh+
Embassy Hotel Balatonas QF-3, Latvi 38,

tel. (+370) 5 272 22 50, info@embassyhotel.lt, www.
embassyhotel.lt. hhhh
Europa Royale Vilnius QC-5, Auros Vart 6, tel.
(+370) 5 266 07 70, vilnius@europaroyale.com, www.
europaroyale.com. hhhh
The Narutis - Preferred LVX QC-3, Pilies 24, tel.

(+370) 5 212 28 94, reservations@narutis.com, www.
narutis.com. hhhhh+
Grotthuss Boutique Hotel QB-5, Ligonins 7,

tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22, info@grotthusshotel.com, www.
grotthusshotel.com. hhhh
Upmarket
Holiday Inn Vilnius QB-00, eimyniki 1,

tel. (+370) 5 210 30 00, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www.
holidayinnvilnius.lt. hhhh
Amberton Hotel QB-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus

1, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 61, vilnius@amberton.lt, www.
ambertonhotels.com. hhhh
Art Hotel Moon Garden QC-5, Bazilijon 10,
tel. (+370) 5 219 99 49, welcome@moongardenhotel.
com, www.moongardenhotel.com. hhhh
Mabre Residence QD-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5

212 21 95, mabre@mabre.lt, www.mabre.lt. hhhh+
Neringa QA-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22
88, book@neringahotel.com, www.neringahotel.com.
hhhh
Artis Centrum Hotels QB-3, Totori 23, tel.

(+370) 5 266 03 66, artis@centrumhotels.com, www.
artis.centrumhotels.com. hhhh+
Atrium QC-2, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, hotel@
atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt. hhhh
Best Western Vilnius QA-00, Konstitucijos 14,
tel. (+370) 5 273 95 95, office@vilniushotel.eu, www.
vilniushotel.eu. hhhh
City Hotels Algirdas QG-5, Algirdo 24, tel.
(+370) 5 232 66 50, info@algirdashotel.lt, www.
cityhotels.lt. hhhh
Congress QB-0, Vilniaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 269 19 19,
info@congress.lt, www.congress.lt. hhhh
Conti QB-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11,
info@contihotel.lt, www.contihotel.lt. hhhh
Crowne Plaza Vilnius QF-4, M. K. iurlionio
84, tel. (+370) 5 274 34 00, reservation@cpvilnius.com,
www.cpvilnius.com. hhhh
Dvaras - Manor House QC-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370)
5 210 73 70, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt. hhhh
Room with a yew
77
Where to stay
Novotel Vilnius Centre QB-2, Gedimino 16, tel.
(+370) 5 266 62 00, h5209@accor.com, www.novotel.
com. hhhh
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva QA-00, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, info.lietuva.vilnius@
radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/lietuvahotelvilnius. Breakfast not included. hhhh
Ratonda Centrum Hotels QG-3, A. Rotundo
1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 70, ratonda@centrumhotels.com,
www.centrumhotels.com. hhhh
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel QD-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, info@shakespeare.lt,
www.shakespeare.lt. hhhh
Mid-range
AAA Mano Liza QB-5, Ligonins 5, tel. (+370) 5 212
22 25, hotel@AAA.lt, www.hotelinvilnius.lt. hhh
AirInn Vilnius QRodnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5
232 93 04, info@airinn.lt, www.airinn.lt. hhh
Apia Hotel QB-3, v. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34
26, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. hhh
Centro Kubas - Angel QC-4, Stikli 3, tel.
(+370) 5 266 08 60, hotel@centrokubas.lt, www.hotel.
centrokubas.lt. hhh
the star and plus system

This guide uses the star system as defined by the State
Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Economy
in which stars and pluses are awarded for amenities offered, and dont necessarily reflect the quality of those
amenities or the standard of service provided.
Domus Maria QC-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 5
264 48 80, info@domusmaria.com, www.domusmaria.
com. hhh
Europa City Vilnius QG-4, J. Jasinskio 14,
tel. (+370) 5 251 44 77, vilnius@europacity.lt, www.
europacity.lt. hhh+
Grata Hotel QG-4, Vytenio 9, tel. (+370) 5 268 33
00, hotel@gratahotel.com, www.gratahotel.com. hhh
Hotel Tilto QB-1, Tilto 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 00 21,
info@hoteltilto.com, www.hoteltilto.com. hhh
Ibis Styles Vilnius QMinsko 14, tel. (+370) 5 203
22 82, ha076@accor.com, www.ibis.com. hhh
Panorama QB-6, Sod 14, tel. (+370) 5 233 88 22,
reception@hotelpanorama.lt,
www.mikotelgroup.
com. hhh
City Gate QC-5, Bazilijon 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 06,

hotel@citygate.lt, www.citygate.lt. hhh
Park Inn by Radisson Vilnius QUkmergs 363,

tel. (+370) 5 238 80 00, info.vilnius@rezidorparkinn.
com, www.parkinn.com/hotel-vilnius. hhh
City Hotels Rdninkai QB-5, Rdnink 15/46,

tel. (+370) 5 261 39 16, info@rudninkaihotel.lt, www.
cityhotels.lt. hhh+
Rinno QA-4, Vingri 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, info@

rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt. hhh
Comfort Hotel Lt QA-6, Mindaugo 27/14,

tel. (+370) 5 250 51 11, co.vilnius@choice.lt, www.
comforthotel.lt. hhh
Budget
Comfort Vilnius QB-5, Gli 5, tel. (+370) 5 264

88 33, reservation@comfort.lt, www.comfort.lt. hhh
Corner Hotel QG-5, T. evenkos 16, tel. (+370) 5

210 23 61, info@cornerhotel.lt, www.cornerhotel.lt. hh
Ecotel Vilnius QB-00, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27
00, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel.lt. hh+
Mikotel QC-6, Pylimo 63, tel. (+370) 5 260 96 26,
reservation@mikotelgroup.com, www.mikotelgroup.
com. hh
Bed & Breakfast
Vilnius attracts birds of every feather
The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms to

the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that the
two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run hotel, in
Lithuania its more of an apartment kind of thing. Indeed,
most Lithuanian B&Bs are just that. Here it can also mean
any kind of hosted accommodation, whether being a room
in a family house to something similar in a building run by
professional staff. So, not really Bed & Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in doubt, make sure to ask
plenty of questions before booking something you never
really wanted.
Where to stay
Bernardin B&B House QD-2, Bernardin 5, tel.

(+370) 5 261 51 34, info@bernardinuhouse.com, www.
bernardinuhouse.com. Breakfast not included.
Vilnius Home B&B QA-3, Pylimo 14b, tel. (+370) 656
050 36, info@vilniushome.eu, www.vilniushome.eu.
Guesthouses
Downtown Forest & Camping QX-4, Paupio
31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31 13, info@downtownforest.lt,
www.downtownforest.lt.
Litinterp Guest House QD-2, Bernardin 7, tel.
(+370) 5 212 38 50, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.
com. Breakfast not included.
Hostels
Do Re Mi Vilnius Hostel QG-3/4, Auk 3, tel.
(+370) 5 240 59 58, info@doremihostel.com, www.
doremihostel.com. Breakfast not included.
Fabrika Hostel & Bar QA-1, A. Vienuolio 4, tel.
(+370) 5 203 10 05, mail@fabrikahostel.com, www.
fabrikahostel.com. Breakfast not included.
Fortuna Hostel QD-6, Liepkalnio 2/61, tel. (+370)
656 222 91, info@fortunahostel.lt, www.fortunahostel.
lt. Breakfast available just for groups.
Hostel Jamaika QC-5, Vis ventj 9, tel. (+370)
688 767 66, info@vilniushostel.eu, www.vilniushostel.
com. Breakfast not included.

Jimmy Jumps House QC-4, Saviiaus 12-1, tel.
(+370) 5 231 38 47, jimmyjumpshouse@gmail.com,
www.jimmyjumpshouse.com.
Pogo Hostel QC/D-2, B. Radvilaits 3-1, tel. (+370)
684 670 60, pogohostel@gmail.com. Breakfast not included.
Long term rental

Stikli Dvaras (Stikliai Apartments) QB-3,
Dominikon 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, apartments@
stikliaihotel.lt, www.stikliai.com.
Short term rental

Barbacan Apartments QD-4, Bokto 19/12, tel.
(+370) 615 126 88, info@barbacan.lt, www.barbacan.lt.
Rentida Apartments QB-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel.
(+370) 605 556 66, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.lt.
Breakfast not included.
Stasys Apartments Qtel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com.
Camping
For a list of campsites around Lithuania, see the excellent
www.camping.lt.
79
Mail & Phones

The state of a country is perhaps no better reflected
than by the condition of its communications infrastructure. In Lithuania that generally means fairly fast, reliable and usually heading in the right direction. Heres
what you need to know.
Post
Central Post Office (Centrinis Patas)
Built in 1886 the Vilnius central post office is a fine example
of neo-renaissance architecture. Redesigned in 1965 the
facade nevertheless retains its original, classical elements
and is something of a gem. Inside you can get just about
everything done youd expect of a post office, and plenty
more besides, including buying souvenirs and bus tick-
laptop login
Wireless Free wireless internet in the centre of Vilnius
has more or less reached saturation point, with scores
of hotels, restaurants, bars and even shopping centres
providing fast connection speeds at no cost. If you cant
find a free connection, the national TEO network offers
a range of paid services including a handy option for
browsing over a 24 hour period for just 1.45, which is
available via SMS to anyone with a local mobile number.
3G/4G Bit (www.bite.lt) and Omnitel (www.omnitel.
lt) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the
internet allegedly wherever you are within Lithuania.
Far from perfect, if youre prepared for slightly slower
speeds than broadband and the occasional loss of signal then one of these services might me just for you.
The above-mentioned mobile operators also offer the
so-called pre-4G services, although the only true 4G service is provided by Mezon (www.mezon.lt), which can
be ordered with the help of a local for a period of one
month for just 8.40. Weve been using Mezon for several months now and have no complaints whatsoever.
postal rates
Letter (44g)
Postcard (20g)
CD (130g)
Lithuania
0.48
0.45
0.72
EU
0.85
0.71
1.71
Outside EU
0.97
0.84
3.40
express mail rates

Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a
maximum of 500g.
London Paris
New York
DHL
TNT
UPS
49.23
47.20
40.84
49.23
52.42
55.60
69.50
76.75
80.80
ets. Look out for commemorative stamps and various

philatelic material on sale. Late night post offices operate
in two of the citys large shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 - 22:00, and Saltoniki 9 (Panorama),
open 08:00 - 22:00.QB-1, Gedimino 7, tel. (+370) 700 554
00, www.post.lt. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. J
Telephones
TEO The people to call if you want a new telephone
line.QF/G-5, Savanori 18, tel. 1817, www.teo.lt. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Mobile phones
BitQF-5, emaits 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30/1501,
www.bite.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Also at Sod 22 (Bus Station), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP),
Saltoniki 9 (Panorama). A
TELE2QB-6, Sod 22 (Bus Station), tel. (+370) 684 001
17, www.tele2.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Saltoniki
9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP).
View of Gedimino prospektas from the cathedral belfry (see p.59)
prepaid sim cards

Card
Bit (Labas)
Omnitel (Eys)
TELE2 (Pildyk)
Price ()
1.74
1.01
1.45
Local ()
0.16
0.06
0.14
London (/min)
0.84
0.58
1.74
Top-up ()
From 1.45
From 1.45
From 1.45
SMS ()
0.03
0.03
0.03
Voicemail (/call)
0.14
Free
0.04
Coverage
99%
99%
96%
Shopping
Shopping in Vilnius is fun and, in the case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes and amber), a
hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber, books old and new and
some nice pieces of art) and parts of the citys classiest
street, Gedimino (designer clothes, mobile phones and
more books). The citys markets are also well worth a visit
for an authentic, blast to the past experience if nothing
else, as indeed are the increasing number of large shopping centres around the edge of the city, where among
other things youll find all the clothing and footwear
shops weve chosen not to list here.
Shopping centres
Akropolis
An enormous place full of just about every shop you can
possibly imagine, including more than a few you will not
find anywhere else in Lithuania. Besides the massive scope
for retail therapy there are plenty of non-shopping activities: you can try ice-skating, bowling, see a movie or enjoy
a tiny 5D cinema. Theres also a good range of restaurants,
and even a casino. Bus No. 53 will get you there.QG-1, Ozo
25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Entertainment 10:00 - 23:00, Maxima Supermarket 08:00
- 23:00. PTAULKXW
Europa
In the heart of the business district just north of the river,
find three floors of mostly clothes shops plus a couple of
restaurants and a handful of little pods for drinking coffee
in.QA-00, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 616 956 80, www.
pceuropa.lt. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
PTJAULKW
GO9
Looking more fabulous than ever after a careful refit,
this shopping centre in the heart ofthe city is located in
a grand building which is worth a look even if youre not
shopping. It dates from 1948 and was the sight of amongst
other things the first nightclub in Vilnius, as well as for
much of the Soviet period newspaper offices. Besides
the many shops there is free Wifi throughout and terrific
onsite dining.QB-1/2, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 659 946
39, www.go9.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
PJAUKW
IKI Commercial Centre
This three-floor shopping centre features a large Iki supermarket at ground level, a handful of average shops downstairs and up the escalators some fashion outlets, a shoe
shop, a Forest restaurant and, at the time of going to press,
a small kiosk selling ready-made sushi.QX-00, irmn 2,
tel. (+370) 5 272 19 61, www.iki.lt. Open 08:00 - 23:00.
Also at J. Jasinkio 16. PAUL
Ozas
The large Ozas shopping centre offers more gargantuan
shopping and restaurant services to the city. Find inside
a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything from
designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol
in Vilnius.QH-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50/1588,
www.ozas.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Entertainment
10:00 - 22:00, Prisma Supermarket 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAULKXW
Panorama
Loads of retail outlets, entertainment centres and restaurants close to the centre in vrynas. Many high street
names, a top floor of restaurants, the countrys first electric go-carting centre and smoking rooms next to the
public toilets.QF/G-2, Saltoniki 9, tel. (+370) 5 219 58
11, www.panorama.lt. Shops 10:00 - 22:00, Entertainment 10:00 - 23:00, Rimi Hypermarket 08:00 - 23:00.
PTAULKXW
Amber
Amber
An astounding Aladdins cave of amber. The walls and
ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of the stuff while
display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more.
Worth visiting even if youre not interested in shopping.
QC-5, Auros Vart 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 88, www.
ambergift.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. PJA
Amber Museum-Gallery
A great little place apt at displaying amber at its best. The
knowledgeable and friendly staff speak English, and can
waffle on for hours about the stuff if you want to know
all about it.QC-3, v. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92,
www.ambergallery.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at v.
Mykolo 12. JA
Beata Amber
As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber
at a variety of stages of production here. There are hunks
of raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you
can use to make your own jewellery and fine finished creations.QC-3/4, Stikli 9/10, tel. (+370) 5 272 37 65, www.
beataamber.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Also at M. K. iurlionio 84 (Crowne Plaza Vilnius), Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva), Antakalnio
60. JA
Antiques
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old,
some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be
required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they
cant, you might like to think again about making the
purchase.
81
Shopping
Markets
Collectors Club (Kolekcinink Klubas) What started out as a small gathering of likeminded aficionados trading miscellaneous antiquities in
exchange for a bit of pocket money has slowly evolved
into a serious weekly event. Stretched out round two full
sides (three on a good day) of the Trade Union Palace
as well as more stalls selling mostly old coins inside the
building, items up for grabs include everything from
Czechoslovakian clarinets to furniture to WWII-era Nazi
propaganda posters in Lithuanian. The latest news is
that several of the sellers now also operate at the weekly
Akropolio Blus Turgus every Sunday.QG-4, V. M. Putino 5, www.vilniusclub.lt. Open 08:00 - 13:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sun. J
Hals Market (Hals Turgus)
The modern, glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and
raw meat at the back is perhaps best worth avoiding,
whereas the beautifully restored brick building dating
from 1900 to the right is more than worth a look inside.
A trip through the doors rewards visitors with a nasal blast
of several tonnes of smoked meat, which can be bought
here along with a few other specialities including fresh
fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locally-produced
honey you can taste before you purchase.QC-5, Pylimo
58, tel. (+370) 5 262 55 36, www.halesturgaviete.lt.
Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
Kalvarij Market (Kalvarij Turgus)
Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic
bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat
(cash only), one of the citys most endangered species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a
taste of what the rest of the countrys really like. One
of the best places in town for meat, locally-produced
honey and cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also
find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap
cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance.
QH-2, Kalvarij 61, tel. (+370) 696 357 18, www.
kalvariju-turgus.lt. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Tymo Turgus
Labouring under the unofficial moniker The Little Good
Food & Culture Festival, this twice-a-week (Thursday and
Saturday) jaunt into the world of possible alternatives
churns out all manner of environmentally friendly food
from local farmers and well as soaps, cosmetics and the
like. Politically edgy in the fluffiest sense, the market also
hosts a regular event where people can vent their spleens
a la Hyde Park Corner, plus theres a place to go for free
second-hand clothing and the occasional musical performance.QD-4, Auktaii/Maironio, tel. (+370) 611 312
94. Open 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun. J
e.k.art
An incredible collection of paintings, furniture, religious
objects and other works of art from Lithuania, Russia, Germany and beyond established over two decades ago and
one of the most reliable places in town to buy antiques. An
excellent place to know about for all serious collectors, the
shop now also stocks a range of antique Persian carpets.
QC-4, Didioji 27, tel. (+370) 605 222 22, info@ek-art.
lt, www.ek-art.lt. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Books etc.
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition
to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found
at various libraries listed in our Directory. International press
is best found in the citys better hotels, of which some offer
a pre-ordering service for newspapers and magazines they
dont usually stock.
Akademin Knyga
A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual
dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One
of the better places in town for foreign literature, which
youll find in the back room downstairs.QC-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun (June 21 - August
16). Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun
(August 17 - June 20). JA
Didysis Pegasas
Extended during the summer this is now easily the biggest
bookshop in the Baltics. And its a proper bookshop too,
with sofas, armchairs and scatter cushions for reading on,
as well as stationery and toys. Youll do well not to spend
an entire afternoon (and loads of money) here.QG-1, Ozo
25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5 238 77 52, www.pegasas.lt.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Draugyst
This former largish bookshop recently removed half its
stock and replaced it with a caf operated by the best caf
chain in the country. The English-language novels can still
be counted on one hand, but now theres a reason to visit.
Also find a decent selection of books about Lithuania in
English.QB-2, Gedimino 2, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 80, www.
vaga.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Also
at Gedimino 9, Pilies 22. JAW
Humanitas
Glossy books about art, architecture, interior design, shoes
and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides and atlases.QB-3,
Dominikon 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53, www.humanitas.
lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
JA
lithuania.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
Mint Vinetu
Hooray for the lovely people who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop with small attached caf in
Old Town. The choice of books, including titles in English,
may be small but its the best anybodys managed to do
so far. Recommended.QB-3, v. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370)
618 203 47, www.mintvinetu.com. Open 12:00 - 21:00.
JAW
Rotas
One would imagine that in an increasingly international
city the choice of books in languages other than Lithuanian
would also be growing, a fact that the last couple of years
has shown in Vilnius to be anything but the truth. Its therefore always a pleasant surprise to discover a bookshop that
stocks foreign language books (in this case most of them
in English), of which Rotas stocks more than the current
standard offering that takes less than 30 seconds to browse
before leaving empty handed. The selection of novels here
may not be breathtaking but the range of modern and classic fiction should be enough to keep any English speaker
who needs something to read at least partially happy. In a
truly local style the owners have decided to make individual
entrance and exit doors for the place, which if you dont
speak Lithuanian can be confusing. In short, enter through
the door on the left and exit to the far right of the shop in
the small space where you also pay for your purchases.QB5, Pylimo 42, tel. (+370) 5 212 47 60, www.rotas.lt. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Vaga
An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few English
books upstairs.QG-3, Gedimino 50, tel. (+370) 5 249 83
92, www.vaga.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Konstitucijos 7a, Gedimino 2, Gedimino 9, Pilies 22. A
Computers
iDream
The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops
to iPods.QG-1, Ozo 25, tel. (+370) 606 187 99, www.
idream.lt. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
The Notebook Shop
A fine selection of PC laptops plus spare parts, peripheries,
service and software.QI-1, S. ukausko 17, tel. (+370) 5
274 15 28, www.nshop.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Food & Drink

Biosala
A good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing
powder etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you
enter.QB-4, Vokiei 13, tel. (+370) 610 653 40, www.
biosala.lt. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). JA
Flowers & Plants
Spring on Pilies
If youre thinking of giving flowers to somebody in

Lithuania, remember that superstition remains rife here
and its easy to make a mistake. There are certain rules
that should be adhered to if you wish to keep on the
right side of your sweetheart and/or future parents-inlaw. Firstly, unless somebody just died, make sure you
only give an odd number of flowers or stems. One will
do, but isnt particularly welcomed unless its a single
red rose for the one you love. Lilies and chrysanthemums are potent symbols of death and should be left
well alone unless heading to the cemetery. If giving
flowers to members of the older generations avoid
yellow ones. Yellow is the colour of jealousy, and can
be traced back to the Middle Ages when yellow was
the traditional colour of the dresses worn by ladies of
a questionable profession. Carnations, especially red
ones, are symbols of the communists. Again, avoid. And
if you just so happen to be in Lithuania on International
Womens Day (March 8), its appropriate for men to give
red tulips to their female colleagues at work.
Flower Market (Gli Turgus)
Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at
Reformat, which was a firewood market before that
and even further back served as a cemetery for the
church across the street. After the erection of the 1983
Monument to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved to its current location. Notable as being the only 24-hour market in the city, this is the place
to come for individual flowers, wreaths and bouquets.
QG-4, J. Basanaviiaus 42. Open 24hrs. J
Gls ir Manufaktra
A good selection of flowers and plants for the home
and/or special occasions.QB-5, Rdnink 11/11, tel.
(+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. Open
07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at
Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Savanori 16 (Rimi Hypermarket), Kareivi 11a. JA
83
Shopping
ALL THAT GLITTERS
Souvenirs, trinkets, quirky gifts and both international and
local fashion brands all can be found easily in Vilnius in
a plethora of pleasant shops, stalls and malls. One of the
most pleasurable and memorable activities on any trip to
the city is browsing in the countless little shops that adorn
the labyrinthine lanes and courtyards of the Old Town.
So what to buy? All that glitters in Lithuania is not gold, but
amber. The ancient fossilized tree resin has dazzled since
Neolithic times and the amber that has been washed up
over the centuries along the sandy coastline is among
the most prized in the world. Transparent chunks with
prehistoric plant and insect inclusions can be found in Vilnius shops, although some pieces have been modified or
reconstructed by jewellers. Amber also shines in stunning
pieces of handcrafted jewellery, art, polished mounted
pieces and objects such as ships, trees and chess pieces.
Natural Lithuanian linen, or flax, is another popular source
of souvenirs and gifts. Local textile artists weave it into tablecloths, cushion covers, clothing and more using traditional patterns and an increasing array of eye-catching designs. Homemade arts and crafts that can also be picked
up include beautiful paintings by local artists, colourful
glazed ceramic bowls, old-fashioned wooden toys, warm
knitted socks, antiques and icons, and unique decorative
glassware. How you get them home in one piece is another matter.
Less fragile are attractive coffee-table books such as Marius Jovaias tome of glossy photographs of the rural countryside seen from the air, Unseen Lithuania, or informative
books about Lithuanian history and art. Folk music fans
should not leave without a few CDs of mystical multivoiced sutartins and instrumental music, while pop and
rock enthusiasts should look for artists like Foje, Andrius
Mamontovas, Skamp and Jurga.
Delicious food to sample while in Lithuania or to take
home include traditional semi-hard white curd cheeses
with caraway seeds or other herbs and spices. Kids will
love chocolate sreliai, sweet snacks a little smaller than
a chocolate bar. These and other curdy delights can be
found in any supermarket, as can traditional loaves of dark
rye bread, preferably uncut and rounded, hard and crusty
on the outside.
Local food such as various types of honey and plentiful fruit can be tasted at Hals Market at the southern
edge of the Old Town. The regions biggest market, however, selling virtually anything you can name, is sprawling
Garinai a few kilometres west of the city centre, open
every morning except Mondays. At the opposite end of
the scale, many international fashion brands have flashy
stores at the citys best shopping malls (see Shopping, p.
80) and along central streets like Gedimino and Didioji, as
do Lithuanias own popular fashion designers and brands.
Eastanbul
This predominantly Turkish food shop is the only thing of
its kind in the city. Find the shelves bulging with an everincreasing collection of things to eat including hummus,
chalva (halva), several kinds of ajvar, Turkish yoghurt, herbs
and spices, the fabulous rarity thats haloumi and much
more besides.QH-3, Kalvarij 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370)
5 273 17 38, www.eastanbul.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A
IKI
Lithuanias first supermarket chain, and still sticking to
their core values of quality and freshness. Notable for
having top-notch in-house bakeries in the bigger stores.
QG-4, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 37, www.iki.
lt. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Also at Mindaugo 25, irmn 2,
Sod 22. AL
IKI Express
Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with edible
treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked
goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries.QB-2, Gedimino 16, www.iki.lt. Open 07:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Uupio 7/1, Pylimo
21, Vokiei 13, Gedimino 28. JA
Livinn
A fine selection of mostly food products, including a range
of goods from the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the selection are Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut
butter and large tins of ghee.QA-2, Vilniaus 15, tel. (+370)
659 036 63, www.livinn.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Sun. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama),
Ozo 25 (Akropolis), irmn 64 (Rimi Hypermarket),
Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ukmergs 369 (BIG). JA
Rta
Established in iauliai in 1913 and still based in the city,
support your local confectioner and buy some of their
treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure of stuffing them
in your face. Everything from chocolate bars to caramel to
truffles.QA-1, A. Jakto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68, www.
saldumynai.lt. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. Also at Klaipdos 1. JA
Senamiesio Krautuv
An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned deli idea
of fresh products laid out in baskets sold by friendly, rosycheeked people and transforms it into a total Lithuanian
experience. All the food for sale is local, including fruit,
vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into a bit of a caf,
with chairs and tables in the street.QC-3, Literat 5, tel.
(+370) 613 558 60. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
JA
turm vyturio uvys
A small fishmongers selling a range of fish they catch and
smoke themselves from the Curonian Lagoon and Baltic
Shopping
Sea. If you want to see some innovative ways of preparing said fish for the table you should make a visit to the
Sturmu-Svyturio restaurant nearby which is owned and
run by the same wonderfully friendly Lithuanians.QD-3,
Uupio 9, tel. (+370) 641 535 67, www.sturmuzuvys.lt.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Opens September 1. JA
Uupio Krautuv
An early contender for the prize title in the citys delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Uupio Krautuv offers a fine
selection of Mediterranean gourmet food including olive
oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of wine, foie gras and
other welcome treats.QI-4, Uupio 23, tel. (+370) 686
793 50, www.uzupiokrautuve.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Gifts & Souvenirs

Aukso Avis
Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian
culture through a modern context.QC-3, Pilies 38, tel.
(+370) 5 261 04 21. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA
Linen & Amber Studio
One of the best places to buy linen and amber. They have
a great selection, and the girls who work here are really
helpful.QC-4, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 13, www.
lgstudija.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Also
at Didioji 10, Didioji 11, Pilies 10. JA
Sauluva
A great choice for souvenir and holiday shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jewellery plus
Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood and
glass.QC-3, Pilies 21/12, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 30, www.
sauluva.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Also at Literat 3.
JA
Stiklo Paslaptis (World of Glass)
An intriguing selection of decorative and functional
Lithuanian glassware. The people who run this place
also offer glass-blowing workshops.QC-3/4, Didioji
38, tel. (+370) 655 815 75, www.stiklopaslaptis.lt.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. JA
Jewellery
Freywille
Freywilles fabulous boutiques are found in the most exclusive locations around the world, a list which now includes Vilnius. Expect to find only the finest jewellery and
accessories here, and there is a good selection for both
men and women. We are big fans of the pens: very special
indeed.QC-4, Didioji 15, tel. (+370) 5 240 40 58, www.
freywille.com. Open 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 16:00. PJAW
Yurga
A superb range of jewellery for both men and women, all
of it hand-crafted and made by a talented local designer
in a range of materials. Yurga also makes one-off pieces
to order including engagement and wedding rings as well
as a handsome selection of corporate gifts. Buy from one
of their experts in the shop or directly from their website.
QB-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www.yurga.lt.
Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
Linen
Linen Tales
Beautifully designed and
crafted linen for bedrooms,
bathrooms, kitchens and
much more besides, all
made by Lithuanians to the
highest possible standards.
An excellent option for those
living in Lithuania looking for something unique for
their homes as well as visitors looking for some outstanding gifts and souvenirs.QC-4, Stikli 4, tel. +370
626 689 61, info@linentales.com, www.linentales.
com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. JA
Lino Namai
Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for just
about any part of the body or home. One of the citys
top shops.QC-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www.
siulas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00
- 17:00. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. JA
Photography
Fototechnika
Although this is arguably the best photography shop in
Vilnius if not the country, dont go getting too excited.
Although they stock an impressive range (for local standards) of cameras, accessories, film stock, lighting, paper
and chemicals alongside such hard-to-find things as cable
releases, the selection remains rather small. The good
news is that if they dont stock it they can order it fairly
quickly.QG-5, Smolensko 10a, tel. (+370) 5 279 15 45,
www.fototechnika.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat,
Sun. A
Vilbra Foto
The best choice of dSLRs and digital compact cameras for
the serious enthusiast in the city. Also, tripods, flashguns,
lenses etc.QG-5, vitrigailos 11b, tel. (+370) 5 239 41 30,
www.vilbrafoto.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun. A
Vilniaus Antikvaro Centras Fotopreki
Skyrius Tucked away to the right of the main antiques shop is a man behind a desk selling a beautiful
selection of old film cameras and other related equipAugust - November 2015
85
Shopping
ment including Leicas and some Soviet classics. Worth
a peep at least.QC-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 5 262
64 76. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. JA
Recorded music
IMuzika
Lithuanias biggest label and one hip shop presenting
jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music. Orders accepted.QH-3, A. Gotauto 3/24, tel. (+370) 615 940 01,
www.imuzika.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. JA
Rdnink Knygynas
A rather cute little shop on the very edge of Old Town, as
well as a good selection of 12inch records from home and
abroad find a fine range of English language magazines
on the subject of design, photography etc. Also available
are a few eco and handmade souvenirs.QB-5, Rdnink
20, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 66, info@rudninkuknygynas.
lt, www.rudninkuknygynas.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
Thelonious
A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz
but also a few other gems you wont find in a mainstream
music shop. They also sell a range of old-fashioned hi-fi
equipment for those who dont know their iPods from
their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for
more information.QC-3, Stikli 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10
76, www.thelonious.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Speciality shops
Bitinlis
A glorious little shop selling a range of locally-produced
honey plus everything you ever needed to start producing
the stuff yourself.QB-6, openo 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233
05 70, www.bitinelis.lt. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
Sport & Leisure

Expedition
A good selection of sports equipment and a limited range
of clothing.QH-3, eimyniki 5a, tel. (+370) 5 275 68
11, www.expedition.lt. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Pylimo 36 and J. Kubiliaus 18.
JA
Woolly socks and gloves for the winter
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Lifestyle Directory
Barbers & Beauty
enz beauty
Everything you
need for your
beauty care can
be found at this
cosy, clean, quiet
and relaxing salon in the Old
Town. Hairdressing, cosmetology,
manicure, pedicure, make-up and more are performed
by highly trained beauticians using Guinot, Menard,
Holy Land, Goldwell and other cosmetic brands.QC3, Didioji 10-8, tel. (+370) 610 084 55, enzbeauty@
gmail.com. By appointment. PJAW
Franko
Get a youthful sprucing-up in this freshly renovated salon right
on Pilies. The bright-eyed, English-speaking staff will make
your hair swell with style.QC-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370) 670 225
54, www.grozionamai.lt. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon,
Sat, Sun. Mon, Sat, Sun by appointment only. JA
RJ Hair Culture
Go home with a completely different hairdo to the one
you came with courtesy of this rather good beauty salon.
Its worth noting that theyve worked abroad, so there is
no language barrier (not always the case when trying ot
get a haircut in this town). If you want make-up done, you
will need to make an appointment in advance.QB/C-3,
Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 640 540 00, www.rjhair.lt.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
Senamiesio
Groio Salonas The Old
Town Beauty Salon offers a superb selection of procedures and services for the benefit of both mind and body. Using a
combination of natural, high quality ingredients and
highly trained professional staff, among the other
many things they provide are waxing procedures,
massage, hair care, manicure and a lot more besides.
QC-4, Rdnink 16, tel. (+370) 5 231 29 22/(+370)
652 224 49, info@senamiesciosalonas.lt, www.
senamiesciosalonas.lt. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JW
Computer repair
Matrix Hard drive recovery et al.QG-5, Vytenio 10, tel.
(+370) 5 213 45 74, www.matrix.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Currency exchange
Medicinos bankas Capable of changing just about
any convertible currency.QB-6, Geleinkelio 6, tel.
(+370) 5 213 54 54, www.medbank.lt. Open 24hrs. J
Dry cleaners &

Launderettes
Jogl The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services.
QG-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Gotauto), tel.
(+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Gedimino 9 (GO9),
Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos
7a (Europa). A
Genealogy
Information Bureau
Former journalist and six times European Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania for people of
Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is also the
man to speak to if youre thinking of relocating to Lithuania
or are simply looking to rent an apartment.Qtel. (+370)
699 599 88, www.lithuaniavisits.com.
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos Archyvo Skyrius) The entire Lithuanian
civil registry archives from 1940 to the present day, including records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to
use this service, location and approximate date are essential.QG-3, K. Kalinausko 21, tel. (+370) 5 233 78 46,
www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45.
Closed Sat, Sun. J
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos Centrinis Valstybs Archyvas) When
the Nazis invaded Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to
prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in
the country, proving that every cloud, no matter how dark
and evil it is, does indeed have a silver lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the period
of 1941-1942 should consult this archive.QO. Milaiaus 21,
tel. (+370) 5 247 78 30, www.archyvai.lt. Open 08:00 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos Valstybs Istorijos Archyvas) The same as
the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only these
archives are from the church registry up until 1940.QF-5, Gerosios Vilties 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. Open
08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Registry (Gyventoj Registro Tarnyba)
If you have a name and need an address these people
will help you locate the person in question (the addiAugust - November 2015
87
Lifestyle Directory
Stikli street
LGBT
The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have information about gay and lesbian organisations, events and
accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news, chat
rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck in the
Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and lesbians, including in the capital. Be very, very careful.
Photographic services
tion of a town helps speed things up no end), although
non-Lithuanians be warned that if the person in question
is located they are first asked if they actually want to be
found before the address is given. The sensible thing for
non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian
intermediary.QG-4, A. Vivulskio 4a, tel. (+370) 5 250 78
88, www.gyvreg.lt. Open 07:30 - 17:00, Fri 07:30 - 15:15.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Key cut
RaktinQD-2, B. Radvilaits 7, tel. (+370) 698 334
13, www.raktine.lt. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Also at Pylimo 4
9. J
Language courses
Language and Culture Institute LINGUA
LITUANICA (Kalbos ir kultros institutas
Lingua Lituanica) Learn Lithuanian with courses
of varying length suitable for everyone from short-term
visitors to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week
summer and winter courses are also available and include
plenty of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are
competitive compared to courses offered by the universities.QA-1, Gedimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 32 39, www.
lingualit.lt. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. J
ProCentras
The only truly pro shop in town can provide index prints
and rush all manner of film formats through in an hour if
you ask them nicely, although the usual turnaround is more
usually a day. Transparency films get done in batches, and
rather annoyingly can take up to a month to process. They
can also print and mount images and scan negatives up to
impressively large sizes. Its just a shame they dont open
during the weekends.QG-4, Savanori 22, tel. (+370) 5
213 27 52, info@procentras.lt, www.procentras.lt. Open
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Shoe repair
Avalyns Taisykla
Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes.QB-4, Labdari 1/22, tel.
(+370) 5 262 88 63. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Special interest groups

International Womens Association of
Vilnius Vilnius long established International Womens
Association welcomes women from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organising regular events including coffee mornings, member
social evenings and a book club, the association hosts a
number of charitable events, like Blossom of Hope, and the
International Christmas Charity Bazaar as well as many others.Qiwavilnius@gmail.com, www.iwavilnius.com.
Lifestyle Directory
Vets & Pets
Senamiesio Veterinarijos Klinika
House calls can be arranged.QB-2/3, Liejyklos 6, tel.
(+370) 699 612 65, www.veterinaras.lt. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA
Wellness
Azia Spa
A range of Eastern-style massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments, body scrubs, aromatherapy
and more. Thai masseurs on hand for the ultimate authentic experience. Special massages for couples also available.
QB-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 244 46 46, info@
aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA
Provanso Kvapai
Provanso Kvapai features a shop and two rooms specialising in a wide range of spa treatments using natural,
organic products. Among the many things on offer are
aromatherapy body massage, body scrub using salt from
the Dead Sea, mud wraps and a lot more. Treatments are
available for both men and women and as well as one-off
treatments they also provide a wide range of treatment
packages.QB-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 1 (Amberton
Hotel), tel. (+370) 679 250 55, www.provansokvapai.lt.
Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. JAW
Exotic Spa Morocco
A wide range of massages and spa procedures, spa treatment packages for couples and a few saucy options for
gentlemen, all inside an atmospheric Old Town cellar. See
the website for a full list of services.QB-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 15, spa@exoticspa.lt, www.
exoticspa.lt. Open 11:00 - 21:00. J
Fitness & GYMS

Forum Sports Club
Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment
and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you while
you use it.QG-2/3, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 5 210 31
49, www.forumfitness.lt. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 21:00. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00
(June 1 - August 31). AFDC
Impuls Plus
Strength and cardiovascular workout gear, aerobics, sauna, spa, pool and waterslide.QI-1, Kareivi 14, tel. (+370)
615 400 72, www.impuls.lt. Open 06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. Also at L. Asanaviits 15, Savanori 28,
Fabijoniki 97a, Ozo 41a. ADC
Witness the fitness in Vilnius
Stimulus
Opened in 2009 and the first of its kind in the country,
Stimulus is an almost exclusively women-only venue
(exceptions are few and far between and males generally only ever visit on invitation) offering a wide range
of regimes, therapies, courses and other such things
aimed at achieving a strong and healthy body and
mind combined with inner balance for a harmonious lifestyle. Also at Aguon 12.QB-00, Konstitucijos
6, tel. (+370) 607 435 55, info@stimulus.lt, www.
stimulus.lt. PJW
89

Active leisure
Uno Parks
Not far from the city centre on the eastern shore of the
Neris river, Uno Parks offers over 1.5km of tracks up in the
trees aimed at everyone from children to beginners to
professional Tarzans. Each track comes with zip-lines for
aerial flights, plus theres a 16m swing for the completely
insane and an aerial runway across the river. The place is
hidden from the road and there are no signposts at all. A
map on their website partially solves the mystery.QLizdeikos, tel. (+370) 602 323 66, www.unoparks.lt. Open
10:00 - 22:30.
On wheels
Plytins Kartodromas
This go-cart track offers speed, mayhem, danger, so its
just like the rest of Lithuanias road network, but with
smaller cars and more fun.QPlytins 27, tel. (+370) 699
567 04, www.kartodromas.lt. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00. A
Super Segway
These extraordinary if not particularly alluring machines
are available to buy and to rent.QB-3, Vilniaus 45, tel.
(+370) 612 344 44, www.supersegway.com. By appointment only. JA
Racquet sports
Bernardin Sodo Teniso Aiktynas
QD-2, B. Radvilaits 6c, tel. (+370) 655 040 52/(+370)
655 040 50, rezervacija@tenisopasaulis.lt, www.
tenisopasaulis.lt. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 21:00. Open June 1 - October 1. JA
Teniso Pasaulis 10.14 - 31.86/hour depending on
when you want to play.QE-1, uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 655
040 50, www.sebarena.lt. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
08:00 - 22:00. A
Table tennis
Sostins Stalo Teniso Klubas
A large, modern table tennis club complete with lots of
tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching
or just playing for pleasure.Check the website for more
information about the full range of their activities.QI-1,
Lakn 24, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalotenisas.lt. Open 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun (September 1 - May 31). Open 17:00 - 20:00, Tue,
Thu 18:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun (June 1 - August 31). P
Water sports
Diugonis (Scuba-diving)
A PADI dive centre, with English-speaking staff, who can
arrange dives in the lakes around Trakai. Scuba gear avail90 Vilnius In Your Pocket
able for hire.QJ. Matulaiio 7-38, tel. (+370) 5 240 70 15,

www.scubadiving.lt. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Lietuvos Vaik ir Jaunimo Centras
The pool is only 25m long but its clean as a whistle and,
despite being in a childrens and youth centre, its not just
for kiddies.QG-2, Konstitucijos 25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33
33, www.lvjc.lt. Open 06:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30,
Sun 15:00 - 21:00 (June 1 - August 31). Open 06:00 13:55, 18:45 - 21:45, Sat 07:30 - 20:15, Sun 07:30 - 21:00
(September 1 - May 31). A
Vichy Aqua Park
A big explosion of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting
Polynesian theme throughout. There are dizzying water
slides, a pretend beach with real waves, oodles of pools
of various types (one with a bar) and all sorts of saunas
and spa baths. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fares
still worth it, or take bus N53 if youre feeling cheap.QH-1,
Ozo 14c, tel. 118, www.vandensparkas.lt. Open 12:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon (September
1 - May 31). Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
(June 1 - August 30). TAEKDC
Winter sports
Akropolis Ice (Akropolio Ledas)
Its skating in a shopping centre, and its cooler than it
sounds.QG-1, Ozo 25, tel. (+370) 659 919 74, www.
akropolis.lt. Open 08:30 - 23:00.
Dentists
A ir B Mackevii Odontologijos Klinika
A team of experienced dental professionals providing
an extensive range of dental services. As well as offering
quality, English-speaking services to resident foreigners,
they also specialise in dental procedures for Westerners at
considerably lower prices. Laser-whitening 300, implant
580 - 730/tooth, prosthetic-CAM-DAM CEREC 3 system
290 - 580, orthodontics for children and adults, treatment with microscope and magnification lens. QB-2, L.
Stuokos-Guceviiaus 9-9, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 12/(+370)
686 305 26, mackeviciai@mail.lt, www.dentaltravel.lt.
Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Also
at Nemenins 54a (Baltic-American Clinic), K. Dineikos
1, Druskininkai (SPA Vilnius). JA
HIV & AIDS

Transmitted Diseases & AIDS Centre
(Ukreiamj Lig ir AIDS Centras
QNugaltoj 14d, tel. (+370) 5 230 01 25, fax (+370) 5
276 79 68, www.ulac.lt. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hospitals
Vilnius University Hospital (Respublikin
Vilniaus Universitetin LigoninQiltnami
29, tel. (+370) 5 216 90 69, www.rvul.lt. Open 24hrs.
Medical services
Baltic-American Clinic
Highly recommended modern professional health
care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever.
QNemenins 54a, tel. (+370) 5 234 20 20/(+370) 698
526 55, www.bak.lt. Open 24hrs. A
Kardiolita
Privately-run general hospital. Broad range of medical
services.QLaisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 00, www.
kardiolita.lt. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A
Medicine General Private Clinics
Excellent English-speaking doctor for general and family health located in the city centre opposite the Cathedral.
QB-2, Gedimino 1a-19, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Pharmacies
Benu QI-1, irmn 64, tel. (+370) 5 278 89 91, www.
benu.lt. Open 24hrs. A
91
Business Directory
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce QG-3, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 612 669 00, info@amcham.lt, www.
amcham.lt.
Belarus QG-4, Muitins 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55,

lithuania.cons@mfa.gov.by, www.lithuania.mfa.gov.by.
Canada QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50,
vilnius@canada.lt, www.lietuva.gc.ca.
il (Consulate) QA-1, A. Jakto 11, tel. (+370) 5
260 89 19, rvizgirda@vizgirdos.com.
Association of Lithuanian Chambers

of Commerce, Industry & Crafts QG3, Vaingtono 1-63a, tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02, info@
chambers.lt, www.chambers.lt.
Czech Republic QF-4, Biruts 16, tel. (+370) 5 266

10 54, vilnius@embassy.mzv.cz, www.mzv.cz/vilnius.
British Chamber of Commerce QC-3, Didioji

5, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62, info@bccl.lt, www.bccl.lt.
Denmark QI-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87

60, vnoamb@um.dk, www.ambvilnius.um.dk.
Chambre de Commerce Franco-Lituanienne

(Pranczijos-Lietuvos prekybos rmai) QC-3,
varco 1, tel. (+370) 655 779 84, admin@cci-fr.lt, www.cci-fr.lt.
Estonia QF-3, A. Mickeviiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02

00, sekretar@estemb.lt, www.estemb.lt.
European Business Network QP.O. Box 1125,

tel. (+370) 699 388 47, www.ebn.lt.
Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38, info@
investlithuania.com, www.investlithuania.com.
Finland QG-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370) 5

266 80 10, sanomat.vil@formin.fi, www.finland.lt.
France QC-3, varco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00, ambafrance.
vilnius@diplomatie.gouv.fr, www.ambafrance-lt.org.
Georgia QF-3, D. Pokos 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 78 48,
vilnius.emb@mfa.gov.ge, www.lithuania.mfa.gov.ge.
Vilnius Chamber of Commerce, Industry

& Crafts (Vilniaus Prekybos, Pramons ir
Amat Rmai) QG/H-5, Algirdo 31, tel. (+370) 5 213
55 50, vilnius@cci.lt, www.cci.lt.
Germany QG-4, Z. Sierakausko 24, tel. (+370) 5 210

64 00, info@wilna.diplo.de, www.vilnius.diplo.de.
European Union
Institutions
Hungary QA-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38,

mission.vno@mfa.gov.hu.
The European Commission Representation

in Lithuania QB-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 91,
comm-rep-lithuania@ec.europa.eu, ec.europa.eu/lietuva.
The European Information Center of the
European Parliament Information Office
and the European Commission Representation in Lithuania QB-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 231
31 83, comm-rep-lt-info@ec.europa.eu, www.ec.europa.
eu/lietuva/eu_information_network/eic/index_lt.htm.
The European Institute for Gender
Equality QB-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 215 74 00,
rdc@eige.europa.eu, www.eige.europa.eu/lt.
The European Parliament Information
Office in LithuaniaQB-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370)
5 212 07 66, www.europarl.lt.
Greece QC-4, Rdnink 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26,

embassy@grembvil.w3.lt, www.mfa.gr/vilnius.
Iceland (Consulate) QF-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel.

(+370) 5 215 05 75, vsankalas@hnit-baltic.lt.
India (Consulate) QB-2, Odmini 11, tel. (+370)
616 770 60, indconsulate.lt@gmail.com.
Ireland QC-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 60,
vilniusembassy@dfa.ie, www.embassyofireland.lt.
Israel QH-3, Konstitucijos 7 Europa Business Center,
tel. (+370) 5 250 25 00, info@vilnius.mfa.gov.il.
Italy QG-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20,
ambasciata.vilnius@esteri.it, www.ambvilnius.esteri.it.
Japan QF-4, M. K. iurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 04
62, consular@emb-japan.lt, www.lt.emb-japan.go.jp.
Kazakhstan QF-3, Biruts 20a, tel. (+370) 5 212 21
23, kazemb@iti.lt, www.kazembassy.lt.
Foreign representations
Latvia QF-4, M. K. iurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12

60, embassy.lithuania@mfa.gov.lv, www.latvia.lt.
Armenia QF-3, Lenktoji 17, tel. (+370) 5 207 50 40,

info@armeniaembassy.lt.
Malta (Consulate) QC-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370)

5 251 44 91, maltaconsul.vilnius@gov.mt.
Australia (Consulate) QA-2, Vilniaus 23, tel./

fax (+370) 5 212 33 69, australia@consulate.lt.
Moldova QF-2, Miglos 61a, tel. (+370) 5 260 79 14,

vilnius@mfa.md, www.lituania.mfa.gov.md.
Austria QC-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80,

wilna-ob@bmeia.gv.at, www.bmeia.gv.at/wilna.
Netherlands QI-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 211

36 00, vil@minbuza.nl, www.lithuania.nlembassy.org.
Azerbaijan QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 219 56

01, info@azembassy.lt, www.azembassy.lt.
Norway QA-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370)

5 261 00 00, emb.vilnius@mfa.no, www.norvegija.lt.
Business Directory
Poland QJ-2, Smlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 219 47 00,
wilno.amb.wk@msz.gov.pl, www.wilno.msz.gov.pl.
Romania QG-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05
57, ambromania@romania.lt, www.vilnius.mae.ro.
Russia QF-3, Latvi 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 93,
post@rusemb.lt, www.lithuania.mid.ru.
Spain QG-3, Gedimino 35, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61, emb.
vilnius@maec.es, www.exteriores.gob.es/Embajadas/
Vilnius/es/Paginas/inicio.aspx.
Sweden QC-4, Didioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10,
ambassaden.vilnius@gov.se,
www.swedenabroad.
com/vilnius.
Turkey QC-4, Didioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 236 42 00,
embassy.vilnius@mfa.gov.tr, www.vilnius.emb.mfa.gov.tr.
UK QJ-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00, bevilnius@britain.lt, www.britain.lt.
Ukraine QG-4, V. Kudirkos 22, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 82,
emb_lt@mfa.gov.ua, www.mfa.gov.ua/lithuania.
USA QG-4, Akmen 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00,
webemailvilnius@state.gov, www.vilnius.usembassy.gov.
Vatican QI-3, T. Kosciukos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36
96, nuntiusbalt@aiva.lt, www.vatican.va.
Freight forwarding
DPD Lietuva QD-6, Liepkalnio 180, tel. (+370) 5 210
67 50, info@dpd.lt, www.dpd.lt.
All of the venues in this
guidebook marked with an
Old Town symbol (J) are
featured as such because even
if theyre not in Old Town per
se, they are at least on the
map on pp.94-95 which we
call Old Town. Confused?
Dont be.
Aguon A-4/6
A. Jakto
A-1
Alkns D-6
Arkli C-4/5
Arsenalo C/D-1
A. Smetonos
A-1/2
A. Strazdelio
D-5
A. Stulginskio
A-2/1
Amenos B-4
Augustijon C-4
Auktaii D-4
Auros Vart
C-5/6
A. Volano
D-3
Bazilijon C/D-5
Beatris A1
Benediktini B-3
Bernardin C-2/D-3
Bokto C-3/D-5
B. Radvilaits
C/D-2
Didioji C-3/4
Dominikon B/C-3
Dysnos B-4
Etmon C-4
Gaono C-3
Gedimino A-1/D-2
Geleinkelio C-6
Gli B-5
Islandijos A-2
Iganytojo C/D-3
J. Basanaviiaus
A-3/4
J. Jablonskio
A-5/6
J. Lelevelio
A/B-1
Jogailos A-1/2
Karmelit C-4/5
Katon A1
Kauno A/B-6
Kdaini A/B-4
K. Griniaus
A-2
K. Kalinausko
A-3
Klaipdos A/B-3
Kruop B-5
K. Sirvydo
B-1
K. kirpos
D-1/2
Kdr D-4
K. Vanaglio
D-5
Labdari B-2
Lap C-5/6
Latako C/D-3
Liejyklos B-2/3
Liepkalnio D-6
Ligonins B-4/5
Literat C/D-3
Lydos B-4
L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus
B/C-2
Interpreters
balTICK Language Services QD-2, Bernardin
9-4, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 24, baltick@baltick.lt, www.
baltick.lt.
Legal & Financial

services
Lewben Financial Services Center

Finance and accounting services are efficiently provided
by this company of over 25 specialists, founded in 2008
and currently serving over 100 clients in a variety of industry sectors.QG-3, A. Tumno 4, tel.(+370) 5 262 05 34,
fax (+370) 5 262 05 35, finance@lewben.com, www.
lewben.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai QB-1, . Liauksmino 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 44, info@siplaw.lt,
www.siplaw.lt.
Consumer rights
European Consumer Centre (Europos
Vartotoj Centras) QB-2, Odmini 12, tel.
(+370) 5 265 03 68, www.ecc.lt.
M. Antokolskio
C-3/4
Maironio D-2/4
Maln D-3
M. Daukos
D-5
Msini B-5/C-4
Mindaugo A-4/6
Naruio D-6
Naugarduko A-4/5
Odmini B-2
Palangos A-3
Pamnkalnio A-2
Pasao C-5
Paupio D-3
Pelesos C/D-6
Pilies C-2/3
Plaioji B-5
Prancikon B-3/4
Punsko A-6
Pylimo A-2/C-6
Radvil B-1
Raugyklos A-6/B-5
Roi A-3/2
Rus C/D-3
Rdnink B-5/C-4
Saviiaus C-4
Sein B/C-6
Sod B-5/6
S. Skapo
C-2
Stikli C-3/4
Stoties B-6
Subaiaus C/D-5
altini A/B-5
ermukni A1
iauli B-4
iltadario D-2
varco C-3
ventaragio C-2
v. Dvasios
D-5
v. Ignoto
B-3
v. Jono
C-3
v. Kazimiero
C/D-4
v. Mikalojaus
B-4
v. Mykolo
C/D-3
v. Stepono
A-6/B-5
Teatro A-3
Tilto B-1/C-2
Totori B-2/3
Trak A-4/B-3
Turgeli D-6
T. Vrublevskio
C-1
Universiteto C-2/3
Uupio D-3
Vienuolio A1
Vilniaus B-1/3
Vingri A/B-4
Vis ventj
B/C-5
Vokiei B-3/C-4
V. openo
B-6
emaitijos B-4
iuproni D-5
. Liauksmino
B-1/C-2
yd B-4/C-3
ygimant B/C-1
93
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Litinterp
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Pogo
Hostel
ventaragio
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Cathedral-Basilica
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Kempinski
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LOS G.
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Artis Centrum
Ambassador
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Map data:
Data Base of the Georeference Background
of the Republic of Lithuania GDB10LT
National Land Service under the Ministry
of Agriculture of the Republic of Lithuania, 2012
Map visualisation:P
U NS
KO
State Enterprise GIS-Centras,
2012
G.
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LIG
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Hotels
G.
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aikt
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INIK
.
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G.
Alexa
EL E
GR
FR
K.Sirvydo
skveras
G.
Rotus
aikt
Jimmy
Jumps
House
V.
KA
IN
GELE
City Gate
KELIO
Dawn Gate
G.
AK O
G.
G.
S UB A IA US G.
G.
Domus
Maria
M.DA
Old Town
Hostel
Fortuna
Hostel
.
SG
O
UK
BERNARDIN T.
UUPIO T.
Mabre
Residence
I GA N YTOJO G.
LA T
Latako B&B
House
Europa Royale
Vilnius
IdaBasar
G.
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MT Ramada
Hotel & Suites
Vilnius
BAZILIJO N G.
S KG
T
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Arts Academy
Hostel
LI T E
RU
KO LO G.
The Narutis
Hotel - Preferred
Boutique
SAVI IA U S G.
SE
Radisson
Blu Astorija
TR
.
ETM O N G
Grybas
house
.
IO G
NO
Centro
Kubas - Angel
PAS A O
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EL
INK
Down Town
Market B&B
SEIN G.
Panorama
G
K
IT
AT
.JO
VARCO G.
Vilnius University
Town Hall
Lazdyn
Peldos
skveras
EL
NIN
D
M
AR
B&B Florens
Geto
auk
aikt
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Comfort Vilnius
ST
OT
S G.
R UJO
IES
LI
LI
K
EP
G.
LN
FLUXUS T.
K O S
orthodox church
synagogue
museum
official building
VA
RASOS
S
VO
recommended view
panoramic view
monument
market
outdoor
stage
S G.
PELESO
concert hall
DRUJOS G.
cinema
theatre
G.
G.
hostel
P IO G
M A I R O N IO G .
PA U
guesthouse
consulate
AU
YB
post office
SG
ALmedical centre
K
N
SG
police
.
parking
petrol
RAM station
train station
bus station
embassy
FR
information centre
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G.
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AU K TAII G.
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hotel
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parkas
PAPLAUJOS T.
P AU
PIO
U U PIO G
Bernardin
sodas
Legend
G.
catholic church
M .D A U
PAUPYS
AUKTAII G.
UUPIS
G
SUBA IAU S
U U P IO G.
Tibeto
skveras
KDR G.
GE
G.
Relais & Chateaux

Stikliai Hotel
AMENOS G.
Grotthuss
Rdnink
G.
Vartai
Apia Hotel
OLD TOWN
R
TU
G.
KO
Vingri
altini
skveras
G.
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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

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Some simple differences worth knowing

Culture & Events

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Where to party in Vilnius

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Mail & Phones

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Maps & Index

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Cheap and efficient, public transport in Vilnius is generally reliable

Arriving & Getting Around

August - November 2015

Arriving & Getting Around

Local bus schedule

Life in the fast lane (if you have a bike)

8 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around

Days of the week (1=Monday)

Arriving & Getting Around

Looking towards Vilnius commercial district

Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light,

Crime & Safety

Money & Costs

12 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Independence & Beyond

2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas

Culture & Events

Party time at Exit Vilnius, one of the citys most hedonistic

August 28-30, Didioji Zaraso Lake island, Zarasai

Culture & Events

Photo by Augustas Didgalvis. Gaida Festival (see below)

Simonas ipaviius (sax), photo by

16 Vilnius In Your Pocket

Vilnius Mama Jazz has

October 7, Forum Palace, Galaxy

Whats going on?

Culture & Events

Arts & Crafts

The Old Crafts Workshops of The Fine

Trees in Vilnius wrap up for the winter

August - November 2015

Culture & Events

Films are usually shown in their original language with

Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy

Forum Cinemas Vingis

Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos Nacionalin Filharmonija) Featuring

Newlyweds keep their love locked on Uupis Bridge

18 Vilnius In Your Pocket