9/3/2012

CE 769
Coastal and Ocean Environment
Part-V

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan

Assistant Professor
Department of Civil Engineering, IIT Bombay.
email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Diffraction
It is the process by which energy spreads laterally perpendicular to the
direction of wave propagation.
The portion of the wave passing the end of the barrier will have a lateral
transfer of wave energy along the wave crest into the lee of the barrier.
If Hi is incident wave height
at end of barrier and Hd
is diffracted wave height
at a point of interest in
the lee of barrier, then
diffraction coefficient Kd=
Hd/Hi .
The value of Kd depends on
the location behind the
barrier defined by r and
, and the incident wave
direction .
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Diffraction
Understanding of the effects of wave diffraction is relevant to the planning
and evaluation of various harbor layouts, including the extent and
location of various wave-absorbing features on the perimeter.
Wave diffraction by a
semi-infinite
impermeable
breakwater, =300.
(Wiegel, 1962)

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Diffraction

Typical diffraction of waves in a

small harbour (plan view)

Typical combined refraction &

diffraction of waves (plan view)

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Diffraction

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Reflection
Waves may be either partially or totally reflected from both natural and
manmade barriers (breakwaters or any other coastal structures).
Wave reflection is important factor in the design of coastal structures,
particularly for structures associated with harbor development.
Reflection of waves implies a reflection of wave energy as opposed to energy
dissipation.
Multiple reflections and absence of sufficient energy dissipation within a
harbor area can result in a buildup of energy leading to wave agitation
and inside the harbor, thus causing excessive motion of moored ships
and other floating vessels.
If Hi is incident wave height and Hr is reflected wave height, then reflection
coefficient Kr= Hr/Hi .

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Reflection
Standing wave particle motion and surface profile envelope from a perfect &
near perfect vertical impermeable wall

(a) Kr=1

(b) Kr<1

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Reflection
Wave reflection from plane slopes, beaches, revetments, and breakwaters
depends on the slope, roughness, and permeability of the beach or
structure, and also on the wave steepness and angle of wave approach.
Battjes (1974) found that the surf similarity parameter given by;

where

x is an important parameter for

determining the amount of
reflection of waves approaching
a beach or structure at a right
angle.

is angle of beach/structure
slope with horizontal

Kr= Hr/Hi

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Reflection
Kr for smooth steps

Kr for slopes, beaches, and

rubble mound breakwaters
Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Deep water:
The maximum height of a wave traveling in deep water is limited by a
maximum wave steepness for which the waveform can remain stable.
Waves reaching the limiting steepness will begin to break and in so doing
will dissipate a part of their energy. Theoretically;
H0/L0=1/7
In addition, wave breaking in deep water can occur when;
-the water particle velocity at the wave crest greater than the wave
celerity;
-the wave crest angle is greater than 120.

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Deep water:

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Shoaling water:
The limiting steepness is a function of both the relative depth d/L and the
beach slope m, perpendicular to the direction of wave advance.
A wave of certain deepwater characteristics will move toward a shore until
the water becomes shallow enough to initiate breaking; this depth is
denoted as the breaking depth, db.
Waves break when their height becomes equal to a fraction of the water
depth;
Hb = 0.78d
Types of wave breaking in shallow waters;
-Spilling
-Plunging
-Surging

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Spilling: When the seabed
slope is mild.

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Plunging: When the seabed slope is steep.

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Surging: When the
slope is very steep.

seabed

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Collapsing

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

Wave transformation
Wave Breaking
Dimensionless breaker height and
class versus bottom slope and deep
water steepness

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

9/3/2012

Next
Higher order wave theories

Dr. BALAJI Ramakrishnan, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Civil Engg., IIT Bombay. email: rbalaji@civil.iitb.ac.in

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