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Diy Lte Yagi
Diy Lte Yagi
Diy Lte Yagi
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Introduction
This article demonstrates how to build a 14-element Yagi antenna for Verizon 4G LTE (or for 3G) in 10 steps for $10.
Background
Many users in smaller towns and rural locations rely on cellular service as their only source of broadband internet. Unfortunately, being in a
rural location often also means being quite far from the nearest cell tower and/or in a weaker signal area due to terrain, trees, or other
obstructions. In these situations, an external antenna designed specifically for your cell carrier's frequencies can often make the difference
between having a slow and unreliable connection and having a consistently fast connection.
The Yagi-Uda antenna--often just called a "Yagi"--is a popular
antenna due to its gain, directionality, and relatively
lightweight design (see the figure to the right). Unlike the
compact internal antenna on a USB modem or cell phone, a
Yagi's driven element is large enough to be fully sensitive to
the frequencies of interest. But, unlike an omnidirectional
antenna or rabbit ears, a Yagi's passive elements can "focus"
the signal from a particular direction and reject signals from
other directions, thus increasing its directional gain. Yet,
unlike other directional antennas (e.g., a parabolic grid), a
Yagi usually weighs less than a few pounds.
There are many online resources that describe how to create
homemade Yagis for VHF, UHF, and WiFi, and for Australia's 3G/NextG networks (see the Acknowledgements section). A particularly useful
article by Jim Klitzing (W6PQL), published in 2006 in the QST journal, provides very detailed instructions on how to build a UHF Yagi
antenna. Inspired by these references, I decided to build my own Yagi antenna for the Verizon 4G LTE bands.
This tutorial
Here, I document the process required to build a 4G LTE Yagi antenna using the construction techniques described in W6PQL's article. His
techniques are simple and achievable with relatively common hand tools. I have actually built three antennas based on his techniques, the
first two using a PVC boom, and the latest--the one described here (and pictured at the top of this page)--using a metal boom. This tutorial
is essentially a spinoff of W6PQL's article for 4G LTE rather than for general UHF. My primary goals were twofold:
1. Keep costs at a bare minimum while still yielding an effective and relatively rugged antenna.
2. Utilize parts that are readily available (e.g., from a local hardware or electronics store).
The result came to approximately $10 in parts, 10 steps to construct, and an afternoon of your time (approximately 4-5 hours). This is not
bad at all considering that the antenna has a theoretical gain of 13.5 dBd and 15.7 dBi. The same construction techniques can be used to
create a 3G antenna; I've provided datasheets for both 4G LTE and 3G versions.
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It's important to note that the information provided here is not meant to serve as a definitive reference on how to build an optimal Yagi
antenna. Remember, I've built only three such antennas. Some sacrifices were made in the interest of cost and simplicity. Don't hesitate to
experiment with alternative parts or construction techniques based on your own judgment--it's certainly possible to improve the design
(e.g., by using larger-diameter elements), and I welcome feedback on such improvements. Note that if you use different materials, you'll
most likely need to generate a different datasheet; see the section on The Design Software.
Organization of this tutorial
The remainder of this article is organized into the following sections:
1. The Design Software (the software used to design the antenna)
2. Parts for the Antenna (the required parts)
3. Building the Yagi (the construction steps)
4. Quick Testing of the Yagi (preliminary testing results)
5. Notes on Mounting, Cables, and Coax Connectors (brief tips on mounting and connecting the antenna)
6. Acknowledgements (and links to useful sites)
7. User Comments (provide feedback here)
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1/2" x 10 ft Electrical Metallic Tube (EMT) Conduit (approx. $2) [the link to the left directs to this item at Lowes.com]
We'll use EMT conduit for the antenna's boom.
We need only 5 ft of EMT conduit for a single Yagi antenna, but
you'll pay about the same price for a 5 ft length vs. a 10 ft
length. Plus, you can save the other 5 ft for another Yagi.
Note that if you can't fit the 10-ft EMT into your car, just
borrow a hacksaw from the Tools section of Lowes/Home Depot
and cut it yourself in the store. Or, ask an employee to cut it
for you.
EMT conduit is a fraction of the cost of aluminum or copper.
Similar to aluminum, it's lightweight and more corrosionresistant than copper. But, unlike aluminum, you can solder
EMT as long as you sand-off the finish at the intended soldering
point. (EMT does not accept solder as readily as copper, so it's
still a bit of a challenge; be sure to use plenty of flux.)
Rigid metal rods (12 gauge or thicker) (approx. $2-3) [the link to the left directs to a steel tomato cage at Lowes.com]
We'll need some form of thick, rigid metal for the antenna's
elements (reflector, driven element, and directors).
There are many options for this metal, spanning a wide range of
prices. Two of the cheapest options that I've found are a
galvanized steel tomato cage or metal coat hangers.
You can buy a galvanized steel tomato cage from your local
hardware/garden store for $2-3. This metal is well-suited for
outdoor use. Alternatively, 7-8 metal coat hangers will suffice. I
purchased an 8-pack from Walgreens for about $2.50 (shown on
the right). These particular hangers have a plastic coating,
which can easily be stripped off.
Keep in mind that you really just need metal rods or tubes that
can be soldered. If you can't find coat hangers or a tomato
cage, you can use an old grill, thick copper wire (6-12 AWG),
welding rods, or some form of metal tubing, perhaps from an
old TV antenna. In fact, using larger-diameter metal is
supposed to increase the Yagi's bandwidth, which may lead to
better results.
The total length of metal that you'll need depends on the
number of elements you intend to put on the Yagi. For the
14-element Yagi shown in this tutorial, we need about 9 ft (2.7
m) of metal.
Plastic Standoff (approx. $0.50) [the link to the left directs to a PVC T-fitting at Lowes.com]
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Short Length of Flexible Coax Cable (approx. $4-5) [the link to the left directs to an RG58 cable at WeConnex.com]
We'll need about 1.5 ft of flexible coax cable to create the
balun and pigtail connection for the antenna.
For this short length of coax, I suggest choosing the type of coax
with the same impedance as your longer coax run (the long run
of coax that connects the modem to the antenna).
If you're using 50-Ohm coax such as LMR400, then use
RG58 for the antenna's balun/pigtail.
If you're using 75-Ohm coax such as RG6, then use RG59
or RG6 for the antenna's balun/pigtail.
The previously described datasheets contain information
regarding the baluns for RG58, RG59, and RG6.
RG58 is 50-Ohm coax; RG59 and RG6 are 75-Ohm coax. 50-Ohm
coax is theoretically matched to the impedance of the antenna
and the modem. But, in practice, the impedance of the antenna
varies within the 4G LTE and 3G frequency ranges, so there's no
way to be perfectly impedance-matched across the entire band
of interest.
The antenna's balun/pigtail is very easy to construct. There's no
harm in trying RG59 or RG6 if you already have some on hand.
You can always replace it later with the RG58 version. (Click
here for more notes on this topic.)
Here, I will demonstrate using RG59 because I had a remnant
piece available (with a pre-attached F-type connector).
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Step 10: Create and attach the balun and coax pigtail
The following tools and supplies are needed to construct the antenna:
Hammer
Drill with 3/32" bit (or anything large enough to accommodate the elements)
Hacksaw
Metal file and coarse sandpaper
Center punch (or nail punch, or awl, or strong nail/screw)
Wire strippers
4-ft or longer straight edge (ruler or level or other)
Ruler with cm scale and mm tick marks
Soldering iron (40-80 W preferred); plus solder and flux
Permanent markers (one fine-tip marker and one medium-tip marker)
Epoxy and screws
If you don't have a particular tool, it's certainly possible to use a substitute. A vise is also highly recommended.
Figure 1: Cut the 10-ft EMT conduit into two 5-ft sections.
To draw the top line, place your straight edge along the
length of the boom, clamp the boom to the straight edge (or
step on the boom to prevent movement), and then follow the
straight edge with your marker, drawing a line on the boom.
To determine the location of the bottom line, use your ruler
to measure 18 mm down from the top line (the diameter of
1/2" EMT conduit is 18 mm). Mark this location. Then, flip the
boom over and use the straight edge and marker to draw the
bottom line--starting at your mark--in the same fashion used
for the top line.
Figure 2: Draw top and bottom guidelines along the length of the boom.
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Figure 4: Diagram of the relative and absolute positions of the first four
elements based on the 4G LTE Yagi datasheet.
Figure 5: Mark the position of each element along the guide lines on both
sides of the boom.
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The next step is to drill holes through the boom for the
reflector and directors. (No hole is needed for the driven
element because it won't be mounted through the boom).
To keep the drill-bit from drifting during drilling, use a
center punch to make an indentation at each marked
position (except for the driven element); see Figure 6. If you
don't have a center punch, a nail punch, awl, or even a
strong nail or screw will work. (As you can see in the
background of the left image of Figure 7, I had an actual nail
punch, but I couldn't find it when I needed it; so I resorted to
using a plain nail.)
Next, drill the holes halfway through from each side of the
boom (see Figure 7, left). If you don't have a drill bit that
matches the size of your elements, it's better to go slightly
smaller, since you want a tight fit during soldering.
Figure 7: Drill the holes halfway through from each side of the boom.
As you drill the opposite-side hole for each element, run the
drill bit briefly though both holes to remove metal shards
(Figure 7, right). If your drill bit is too small, you can rock
the bit in a circular motion to slightly enlarge the hole (but,
don't overdo it--remember, you want a tight fit so that the
elements don't move during soldering).
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Be sure to cut each element a bit long, and then file the
element down to the correct length. This filing also helps
remove jagged edges from the cut ends.
Figure 9 shows one of the elements, stripped, straightened,
and then cut/filed to length. The element shown is Director
1, which has a length of 178 mm. Figure 10 shows the
reflector and all 12 directors cut to length.
After all of the elements are cut to the proper lengths,
mark the midpoint of each element. Also mark half the
boom diameter (9 mm for 1/2" EMT) away from both sides of
the midpoint; see Figure 11. These marks will later serve as
guides when mounting the elements to the boom. The
particular element shown in Figure 11 is the reflector, which
has a length of 198 mm, a mark at the midpoint of 99 mm,
and flanking marks at 90 mm and 108 mm.
Figure 9: Cut each element a bit long, and then file it down to the correct
length.
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Now that all of the elements have been created, the next
step is to mount only the directors to the boom. (The
reflector and driven element will be mounted later.)
Figure 15: Sand around each hole down to the bare metal to ensure that
the solder will bond.
Figure 16: Place each element through its hole, and ensure that it's
centered across the boom by using the 9-mm-away-from-midpoint marks
drawn previously in Step 5.
Figure 17: Closeup of solder joints (they're not perfect, but they're quite
solid).
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Figure 18: Sight down the boom to ensure alignment of the elements;
bend the elements as needed to correct.
Figure 19: Illustration of the general idea behind using a plastic standoff.
Figure 20: Prepare the PVC T-fitting by trimming the ends and drilling
two opposite-side holes through which the folded dipole will fit.
Figure 21: Slip the folded dipole through the holes (you might need to
undo some bends temporarily).
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Step 10: Create and attach the balun and coax connection
The final step is to create and attach the balun and coax
pigtail to the antenna.
The Yagi Calculator software creates a picture of the balun
and pigtail, which is shown in Figure 24 for RG59 coax with
polyethylene insulation. Here, I will demonstrate using RG59
because I had a remnant piece with a pre-attached F-type
connector.
Figure 24: Diagram of balun and coax pigtail for 4G LTE Yagi with
polyethylene-insulated RG59.
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Figure 25: Cut and strip the pieces for the balun (top) and coax pigtail
(bottom).
Figure 27: Attach the balun and pigtail to the folded dipole.
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The results are promising. I expect further performance gains by mounting the antenna higher and outdoors. Again, this older version of
VZAM seems to display fewer bars for the same RSSI and SINR as compared to the newer versions. I always run a speed test to be sure.
During these tests, the antenna was plugged into the modem's normal antenna port (the one near the SIM card), and not the MIMO/diversity
port. 3Gstore.com calls the normal antenna port the "3G port" and the MIMO/diversity port the "4G port." If you plug the antenna into the
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MIMO port, the modem should theoretically use the internal and external antennas in a MIMO configuration. However, this will work only if
your internal antenna has a decent signal to begin with. In my setting, as you can see from the above results with no antenna, the signal
was quite poor to begin with, so plugging the antenna into the MIMO port gave me about the same DL speeds, but it didn't help the UL
speeds.
With that in mind, I have experienced even better results with using two of these DIY antennas in a MIMO configuration (i.e., using both
ports of the VL600 or UML290). I hope to post some MIMO results in the near future.
Notes on mounting
At the present, I have not yet explored ideal mounting options. This topic deserves its own DIY article.
Although EMT conduit is a fairly lightweight, I recommend supporting the antenna from its midpoint or at two equidistant points
away from the midpoint.
One of the advantages of using EMT conduit for the boom is that you can readily find many clamps, elbows, and connectors
designed specifically for EMT at your local hardware store; and, they're cheap. Muffler clamps are also cheap or can possibly be
salvaged locally. You'll have to experiment and be creative if you plan to pursue DIY mounting hardware.
Of course, the quickest and easiest solution is to purchase an antenna mounting kit, e.g., from your local RadioShack. If you don't
already have a mast or other mount on your roof (e.g., for a TV antenna), then you'll need some form of mounting kit to get
started.
If you don't have a metal roof, consider mounting the antenna in your attic. You won't get the best signal possible, but at the same
time, you won't have to worry about rust, lightening, or wind.
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If you used LMR400 for your long run of coax, and assuming it uses N-type male connectors, then you will need to search for an
FME-female to N-female adapter. These are readily available online for around $10 with shipping.
If you used RG59 or RG6 for the antenna's pigtail, then you will need to search for an FME-female to F-female adapter.
Maxmost.com sells an an FME-female to F-male adapter here and on eBay here for around $10 shipped from NY. You can then use
an F-type barrel connector to change the gender. Of course, you can get creative and use intermediate adapters; below is what I
used during my tests (I'm actually surprised it works as well as it does).
Acknowledgements
A special thanks to Jim Klitzing (W6PQL) for providing an excellent QST journal article from which much of the material on this page is
based, and thanks to John Drew (VK5DJ) for the Yagi Calculator software. I am also grateful to the following resources for providing much
guidance on antennas and related mobile-broadband topics:
EVDOforums.com and 3Gstore.com
Verizon Wireless forums at DSLReports.com
Jim_in_VA's excellent EVDO Tips site
Homemade 3G/NextG Yagis for all bands site from our friends down under
VHF/UHF Yagi Antenna Design site from Martin E. Meserve (K7MEM)
Jealous Brothers' blog post on the Wilson 4G LTE amp and antennas
Milkwood's blog post on DIY remote area internet
User Comments
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Chad Huggins
Finished building one this weekend. Works great! Didn't take any before or after speed data, but can
really tell a difference.
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