Destination Kimberley PDF

January 2008 May 2015, Birgit Bradtke, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Cover photo: a hired 4WD campervan crosses the King Edward River on the Mitchell Plateau.
Copyright Notice
Copyright January 2008May 2015, Birgit Bradtke, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Except as permitted by the Copyright Act 1968, no part of Destination Kimberley (this
book) may in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or any
other means be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or be broadcast or transmitted without
the prior permission in writing of the author, Birgit Bradtke.
That means you may NOT multiply and pass on this guide or any part of it to others!
(Note that section 43C of the Copyright Act does allow you to print this guide for your own
personal use.)
Disclaimer
All information in Destination Kimberley (this book) is provided as a general guide only. I,
the author, Birgit Bradtke, do not express or imply anything regarding the accuracy or
reliability of this information or its suitability for a particular purpose.
I have made every effort to ensure the information contained within this book is correct and I
expressly disclaim any liability or responsibility for the accuracy of the information in this
book or for any loss, injury or inconvenience experienced by any person using this book.
It is your responsibility to confirm the currency, validity and suitability of all information I
offer.
I DO NOT MAKE ANY EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES, REPRESENTATIONS
OR ENDORSEMENTS WHATSOEVER (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, THE
IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
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Updates
The information in this book was correct and current at the time of writing, but things
in the Kimberley change often and they change fast.
If you find any of the information to be incorrect or out of date, please help future
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Thank you!
Table of Contents
FOREWORD..............................................................................................................8
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE..................................................................................10
GLOSSARY AUSSIE SLANG.............................................................................11
Part I: Introduction and Overview...........................................................................12
HISTORY.................................................................................................................16
GEOLOGY...............................................................................................................19
FAUNA....................................................................................................................20
FLORA.....................................................................................................................23
ECOLOGICAL THREATS......................................................................................24
THE CLIMATE........................................................................................................28
Part II: General Travel Information........................................................................29
GETTING THERE...................................................................................................29
Visa Information...................................................................................................29
Flying....................................................................................................................29
Driving..................................................................................................................30
Agricultural Quarantine........................................................................................31
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT...................................................................................33
ITINERARY PLANNING.......................................................................................39
GETTING AROUND...............................................................................................40
Public Transport...................................................................................................40
Tours.....................................................................................................................40
Self Driving..........................................................................................................40
DRIVING IN THE KIMBERLEY...........................................................................45
Sealed Roads........................................................................................................45
Unsealed Roads....................................................................................................47
MAPS.......................................................................................................................54
NATIONAL PARKS................................................................................................55
FACILITIES/COSTS...............................................................................................56
WHAT TO PACK....................................................................................................59
MORE INFORMATION..........................................................................................63
SOME NOT SO NICE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW.....................................64
Crocodiles.............................................................................................................64
Box Jellyfish and Irukandji..................................................................................65
Ross River Virus and Barmah Forest Virus.........................................................67
Part III: The Guide....................................................................................................68
BROOME.................................................................................................................68
Getting Around.....................................................................................................72
Things to See and Do...........................................................................................73
Cable Beach..........................................................................................................78
The Broome Bird Observatory.............................................................................79
Practical Information and Commercial Listings..................................................81
THE DAMPIER PENINSULA................................................................................92
DERBY...................................................................................................................104
Getting There......................................................................................................104
Things to see and do...........................................................................................106
Surrounding Areas..............................................................................................107
Practical Information and Commercial Listings................................................108
WINDJANA GORGE............................................................................................112
Camping.............................................................................................................113
TUNNEL CREEK..................................................................................................113
FITZROY CROSSING..........................................................................................115
Getting There......................................................................................................115
Things to see and do...........................................................................................116
GEIKIE GORGE NATIONAL PARK...................................................................118
WOLFE CREEK CRATER NATIONAL PARK..................................................120
Getting There......................................................................................................121
Camping.............................................................................................................121
THE TANAMI ROAD...........................................................................................122
HALLS CREEK.....................................................................................................125
Getting There......................................................................................................125
Things to See and Do.........................................................................................126
THE DUNCAN ROAD..........................................................................................128
Things to See/Places to Camp............................................................................129
BUNGLE BUNGLE-PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK....................................131
Best Time to Visit...............................................................................................132
Getting There......................................................................................................133
Visitor Information.............................................................................................135
Walks and Sights................................................................................................137
Suggested Itineraries..........................................................................................139
WARMUN.............................................................................................................142
DOON DOON........................................................................................................143
KUNUNURRA.......................................................................................................144
Getting There......................................................................................................144
Getting Around...................................................................................................145
WYNDHAM..........................................................................................................158
Getting There......................................................................................................159
Attractions near Wyndham.................................................................................161
LAKE ARGYLE....................................................................................................164
KEEP RIVER NATIONAL PARK........................................................................166
Part IV: The Gibb River Road................................................................................168
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE?.............................................................................169
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW...........................................................................169
ATTRACTIONS ON THE GIBB RIVER ROAD.................................................175
Overview: Gorges, Gorges and more Gorges....................................................175
From Derby to Kununurra along the Gibb.........................................................176
KALUMBURU ROAD AND MITCHELL PLATEAU........................................196
Drysdale River Station.......................................................................................196
Mitchell Plateau (Mitchell Falls)........................................................................198
Kalumburu..........................................................................................................204
SERVICES ALONG THE ROUTES.....................................................................208
Appendix:..................................................................................................................211
USEFUL CONTACTS...........................................................................................211
Destination Kimberley - www.KimberleyAustralia.com
FOREWORD
o you want to visit us here at "Australia's last frontier", and you wonder how to
best go about it all. What there is to see and do, how much time you'll need,
how much money, if the time you chose is a good one and if you're driving
skills are up to it.
The time and money you have available will impose restrictions on your schedule.
Ideally what you see and what you skip should be decided by your interests and NOT
by the amount of information that's available.
I like to think that you made a huge step in the right direction by buying this book.
This guide goes well beyond the normal Australia guide books. Even guide books
focusing on Western Australia only devote one thin chapter to the Kimberley: the
information the authors gathered on research trips, being tourists themselves. It IS
after all a very remote place and the information is NOT easy to come by.
I have lived in the Kimberley on and off since 1994 and permanently since 1998. I
know the place from the inside. And to some extent, so will you, after reading the
guide.
This book also goes well beyond the information you find on other tourism websites,
which are generally restricted to the main sights and to sales of tours and
accommodation.
I'm not involved in the tourism industry in any way. I have nothing to gain by pushing
any tour packages, accommodations or agents. If I recommend someone or something
then I do so because I feel strongly about it and because I have personally experienced
the quality of the service I'm talking about.
I also don't accept any of those freebies that most of the travel writing world revolves
around. You know the deal: the writer gets free accommodation and meals and tours,
and in return talks up the business.
I love bushcamping, and will choose a private campsite over four or five star
accommodation any day. When I do stay in accommodation, my hosts won't know
who I am. I may let them know after, especially if I really fall in love with a place, but
all my writing is based on what I experienced when I arrived, often as a dirty and
smelly camper.
(And next time I visit, I will again sneak in undetected, by letting my travel
companion complete the check in formalities. It can be done.)
So you see, I am fiercely independent. I do not feel obliged to write to further
anyone's business interests. My only commitment is to you, my readers. You trusted
me enough to buy this book, and in return I offer you the most honest and accurate
and comprehensive advice I can give.
I hope it will serve you as well as it served several thousand before you!
8
May 2015, Birgit Bradtke, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
A note about the structure of this guide:

If you have read the Kimberley Pocket Guide then you will already be familiar with
several chapters of Part II: General Information . However, the section also
contains many additional chapters, about history, geology, the flora and fauna and
about the ecological threats the Kimberley region faces today.
Of course there is also a loooong chapter about driving in the Kimberley with tips for
water crossings, for tyre pressures and similar.
I also suggest you carefully read some of the chapters at the end of Part II:
If you plan a wet season/early dry season trip read up on Ross River Virus.
If you plan to swim in the ocean in Broome read about Irukandji.
Everyone should read about our crocodiles, and if its just to understand why
most people do not need to worry about them.
Part III: The Guide and Part IV: The Gibb River Road are the meat of this book.
They contain everything you need to know to make this a fabulous trip.
Yes, you do have the necessary driving skills, so go make the most of it!
9
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
his guide is written in e-book format. You may be familiar with e-books, in
which case you can skip this section and dive straight into the book. But for
those of you who are not familiar with e-books, here are a few tips:
First of all, if you haven't saved it to your hard drive yet, look in the top left corner,
where you see a disk icon or it says Save a copy. Click it, browse to your desktop
and click save.
Now you can open the e-book from your desktop and read it on your screen any time
you like.
Or you can print it out and read it like any other book. A travel guide that you cant
take with you would not be of much use, would it?
The book also has some features that are designed to be used from your computer.
And while you are still in the planning stage of your trip this can be very handy.
For example, you will come across links in this book. Some of them work just like
links on the Web. They take you to webpages with more information. You will
recognize such external links because they are always written with the www in front
of them. Like this: www.kimberleyaustralia.com
Other links are internal links. They take you to a different part of the book. The links
in the Table of Contents (TOC) on the previous page are internal links. Clicking on
them takes you straight to that chapter. Try it.
And last but not least there are all the links that tell you in one way or other that you
can email someone, or links that are email addresses. They will automatically open
your email editor so you can send an email to that address.
Navigation
You have many options to get around this book. You can just scroll up and down,
with your mouse or with the scroll bar on the right side of the screen. You can use the
little arrows (at the top or bottom of the screen, depending on your version of Adobe
Acrobat). You can use the jump links in the TOC. And, if you remember the page
number you want to go to, you can type that at the top or bottom of the screen where
you see the page numbers. Play around with everything a bit and see what you find
most comfortable.
You can also adjust the size of the text by using the plus and minus sign at the top of
your screen, or by changing the percentage number thats displayed between the plus
and minus sign.
And if none of this makes you feel comfortable while reading, just print the darn
thing!
10
GLOSSARY AUSSIE SLANG

This page is for non-Australian readers.
Some of our expressions and abbreviations might be unfamiliar to you. They are
explained here, some even have a German translation. I just kept adding things as I
was writing, whenever I stumbled across something that I thought you might not
know. Anything missing? Still confused? Just shoot me an email so I can add it.
BBQ: barbecues can be wood or gas fired. Gas barbecues at campgrounds or other
tourist facilities are often coin operated. If you want to make use of the cooking
facilities at the many Kimberley campgrounds you better have some change handy
and learn how to cook on a BBQ plate.
Billabong: a permanent waterhole that remains when a river or creek dries up during
the dry season.
BYO: stands for "bring your own" and means you take your own alcohol to a
restaurant. Makes eating out much more affordable!
Cattle station: see station below
Corrugations: ridges and dints on the surface of unsealed roads that make them look
like corrugated iron. They shake your bones apart and make the car disintegrate when
driving on them... (Wellblechpiste)
Esky: cooler, ice box, chilly bin (Khltasche)
Homestead: the heart of a station (see below). This is where the managers live, but on
a large station it's more like the centre of a little village, with all the sheds and
workers accommodation etc. surrounding it.
Licensed: allowed to serve or sell alcohol. You cant buy alcohol at any supermarket,
service station or kiosk, as you can in many European countries. Alcohol sales are
very strictly regulated in Australia.
Rock cairn: a small pile of rocks, used to mark a path in the wilderness
(Steinmanndl)
Station: huge expanse of land where cattle is farmed. In the US it would be called a
ranch (and be tiny by comparison).
Swag: a bed roll, a whole bed inside a canvas cover that can be rolled up to take with
you. Much better than a sleeping bag, unless you want to do an overnight hike
Thongs: flip flops (Badeschlappen)
And now, lets finally get to the book
11
Part I: Introduction and Overview
he Kimberley plateau covers the north west corner of the Australian continent.
It is a wild and still largely untouched land of sweeping plains and huge tidal
rivers, rugged ranges and dramatic gorges, as far away from all the Australian
population centres as possible without dropping of the edge of the continent.
The Kimberley is 421,450 sq km (162,680 sq miles) in size, about a sixth of Western
Australia.
On an Australia map the Kimberley looks small, but make no
mistake. You are looking at a region that is over three times the size
of England, bigger than Germany, larger than Victoria and Tasmania
together, or comparable to California. But people are few and far
between. Estimates put our numbers in the region of 38,000.
And there is only one sealed road, the Great Northern Highway, skirting this area
along the southern edge. It connects Broome on the west coast with Kununurra on the
eastern border. Those two towns are the main entry points and bases for tourists.
The third major town in the Kimberley is 220 km north of Broome. Derby is the
starting point for the only other main road in the Kimberley: the famous Gibb River
Road. This unsealed road runs somewhat parallel to the highway, but cuts right
through the red, wild heart of the Kimberley ranges.
Sometimes little choice is a good thing. Having only two roads can greatly simplify
the planning of a trip. Drive up one road and back down the other...
Lets do that, starting in Broome.
12
A Quick Round Trip

Broome on the west coast is the biggest town in the Kimberley and well connected to
the rest of Australia by air and by road.
Most Kimberley travellers either start or wrap up their trip in Broome. Some do both.
Broome markets itself as a tropical beach destination with exotic flair. Cable Beach
with its 22 km of pure white sands is world famous and the turquoise Indian Ocean
and red pindan soils and cliffs are of course a photographer's dream. The exotic flair
stems from Broome's colourful past as the world's pearling capital and the resulting
mix of races and nationalities that make up todays population.
Broome is a good place to relax and acclimatise after a long flight before starting your
adventure and also a place to enjoy a bit of comfort and luxury after a camping trip
across the Kimberley.
The Dampier Peninsula north of Broome is a 4WD only destination. On your way
up to beautiful Cape Leveque you pass deserted beaches, fantastic fishing spots and
several Aboriginal communities that welcome travellers. Anybody who wants to get
away from tourism as usual and hopes to get under the skin of the Kimberley should
spend some time on the Peninsula.
Once you leave the Broome area and follow the highway north you get to Derby, a
major regional administration centre and a very friendly, welcoming town. If you
found Broome a bit too hectic and busy (and during peak season it is) you will breathe
a sigh of relief when reaching Derby.
Though only 200 km from Broome and also located on the coast, Derby is definitely
not a beach destination.
13
What you find here are huge tidal mud flats, mangrove swamps and lots of crocodiles.
But if you have some time you can jump on a scenic flight or a boat cruise to the
Buccaneer Archipelago, a group of 800 to 1000 of the worlds remotest islands.
However, for most tourists Derby is simply the place for last minute preparations and
to fuel up and stock up the 4WD for a Gibb River Road trip.
The Gibb River Road starts just outside Derby. 2WDs can come along for the first
part of the trip. The first turn off from the Gibb River Road takes travellers to the
Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge national parks.
If you want to see all of the Gibb River Road then you will do this as a detour and you
have to backtrack. 2WDers, however, just continue on this side road until it joins the
Great Northern Highway where they turn east towards Fitzroy Crossing, or west
back to Broome. (If this sounds confusing have another look at the map.)
The Gibb River Road has miles and miles of exactly what you expect from the
Kimberley: colourful, sweeping landscapes, steep ranges, lushly vegetated gorges,
enticing rock pools and waterfalls, tidal rivers, cattle stations, road trains... And lots of
dust and corrugations!
Hiking, swimming, camping and four wheel driving are the main activities. Plus
marvelling at the views and the grandness of nature, the wilderness, wildlife and the
friendliness of the people who live out here.
The most publicised attractions in order from west to east are Bell Gorge, Galvans
Gorge, Manning Gorge and El Questro/Emma Gorge. But there are many, many
more not so well known gorges and waterholes along detours on rougher tracksso
bring a sense of adventure.
The awe-inspiring Mitchell Falls require a detour to the north (and several extra
days). So, too, does a trip to the remote Aboriginal community Kalumburuon the
northern coast (very popular with fishermen).
(Note: the access track to the Mitchell Falls is not a gazetted road. Read the fine print
of your car hire contract regarding this. Some hire companies dont allow you to
travel such roads, so if you do you void any insurance cover. Other companies may
not allow it in their standard agrement but will give written permission when asked.)
The much photographed Pentecost River Crossing, a major obstacle to many an early
season Gibb River Road trip, is located between the turn off to the Mitchell Falls and
El Questro Station. El Questro is the last big attraction along the Gibb River Road.
At the end of the Gibb River Road you can turn left/north to visit the historic port
town Wyndham. Turn right/south and you get to Kununurra.
Kununurra is the main hub of the East Kimberley and home to the Ord River
Irrigation Scheme. It's lush and green and tropical, thanks to Lake Argylea massive
dam only 70 km from Kununurra by road. The East Kimberley is a lot more scenic
than the flat Broome area. There is a heck of a lot of water here and a heck of a lot to
do!
(If for some reason you have to skip the Gibb River Road then you may want to allow
more time for the East Kimberley around Kununurra. Kununurra gives you access to
the actual Kimberley plateau and ranges, so you can still experience what the
Kimberley is all about.)
14
Many swimming holes and waterfalls are in the immediate area. The Ord River is
great for boating and canoeing and the big tidal rivers keep our fishermen busy. There
is a reason why there is a boat in every yard in town.
A visit to Lake Argyle is a must and is best combined with a boat trip on the Ord
River, all the way down to Lake Kununurra.
Mirima National Park, a Mini Bungle Bungle, is only 2 km out of town.
Keep River National Park is only a short hop across the Northern Territory (NT)
border, which is only 30 km from Kununurra.
This is the eastern end of the Kimberley. From Kununurra you either continue your
trip into the NT, towards Katherine and Darwin, (following my new guide
Destination Top End, which I released in January 2010), or you head back towards
Broome.
You can visit the famous Bungle Bungle National Park on a return trip from
Kununurra (self driving or as part of a tour), or you visit it on the way, when
travelling between Broome and Kununurra along the Great Northern Highway. A visit
to the Bungles requires a 4WD. (Scenic flights are available from Kununurra.)
Not far from the Bungles turn off is the small town Halls Creek which, in itself, is
nothing to write home about. However, several gorges and other sights along the
Duncan Road are worth a quick detour.
Wolfe Creek Crater National Park can be accessed via the Tanami Road, which
starts not far from Halls Creek. That trip is a slightly bigger detour.
Following the highway the next settlement is Fitzroy Crossing. There you find the
Geikie Gorge National Park, the only Kimberley National Park with a sealed access
road.
Well, and that's pretty much it. Leave Fitzroy Crossing, head further west, and when
you see signs of civilization again it means you are back in Broome.
This was the quick round trip to give you an idea where the big things are located and
some sense of orientation. Of course there are other possibilities for routes and
schedules and a lot more things to see and do. We'll get to that.
15
HISTORY
he Kimberley, known as The Last Frontier, was in fact almost certainly the
first region of Australia to be seen by man. The early ancestors of the
Aboriginal people had to sail all of 70 to 80 km across the straits from SouthEast Asia.
Charting the Coast

Greek, Roman and Chinese legends also mention a great southern land. A Chinese
navigator may have reached Darwin as early as 1405 and the Macassans paid
extended visits to our northern coast on an annual basis, long before the first
Europeans set eye on the continent.
The first European to sail and chart much of the Kimberley coast was the Dutch
navigator Abel Tasman in 1644. The first Englishman to visit was William Dampier
in 1688. His trip in the Cygnet was very short, probably not least because he was very
unimpressed with what he found. He made another trip, on the HMS Roebuck, in
1699, commissioned by the Admiralty to chart the north-west coast. But he remained
equally disgusted and left just north of King Sound to head for Timor.
Nicolas Baudins expeditions (1800 1804) left us with names like Cape Leveque
and Gantheume Point, but the Frenchman never approached the coast.
In 1818 the Admiralty dispatched another man, Phillip Parker King on the HMS
Mermaid, again in the hope to chart the virtually unknown coast. Alas, he initially
bypassed the Kimberley to concentrate his efforts on the North West cape and
Arnhem Land.
He did, however, make three more trips in the following three years, discovering,
naming and sketching many places: the Cambridge Gulf and Mount Cockburn, Cape
Londonderry, the Admiralty Gulf, the prince Regent River and falls, the Buccaneer
Archipelago and King Sound. Careening Bay marks the place where the Mermaid was
damaged in a storm during his third visit in 1820. He undertook the fourth and final
voyage in 1821 on the Bathurst.
The next ship of note is Darwins HMS Beagle, under the command of Captain
Wickham and Lieutenant Stokes. The party named the Fitzroy River (and many other
places) where a tidal surge nearly wiped them out.
Settlers Arrive
The very first settlers were attracted by the rich amounts of pearl shell found in
Roebuck Bay (the location of Broome today). In the 1860s boats were already using
Roebuck Bay as a base and Aborigines were rounded up and forced to work for
skippers.
The first actual settlement was the 1864 attempt at establishing a sheep station in the
area. It failed and was abandoned in 1867. Another failed attempt in the same year
was the arrival of 110 settlers with 4700 sheep at Camden Harbour, a rocky patch of
dirt on the salty Glenelg River. They lasted six months.
Alexander Forrest is the man who finally changed things. A trip, starting on April 22,
1879, took him through good cattle country to the Fitzroy River, across the Oscar and
16
Leopold ranges, north of Halls Creek and onwards to find and name the Ord River,
and finally on to Darwin.
His glowing reports resulted in a mad rush and soon settlers, sheep and cows were
arriving from everywhere. Millions of hectares along the Fitzroy River were under
lease within a few years. (This is still the area where you find the Kimberleys great
cattle properties.)
Progress further north and east was slower. Nat Buchanan took up Ord River Station
in 1884 and then several more along a route that today is the Buchanan Highway. But
the main family to shape the east Kimberley were the Duracks, who brought a huge
mob of cattle across from Queensland in an epic two year drive, culminating in the
establishment of the famed Argyle Downs Homestead, in a location that is now at the
bottom of Lake Argyle.
Argyle Downs, Ivanhoe, Dunham and Lissadell are just some of the stations they
established, during a reign that lasted over 100 years.
The great story of the opening up of the East Kimberley is still very much alive in the
great books by Mary Durack: Kings in Grass Castles and Sons in the Saddle.
Gold!
Gold was officially first found in the area in 1885, but in 1887 Charley Hall and Jack
Slattery discovered the main field in Halls Creek. This caused another mad rush and
men were WALKING to Halls Creek from Derby or the new port of Wyndham. The
ports of course, boomed; but the boom did not last long: by 1888 it was over already.
Opening up the North

The first explorer to successfully cross the King Leopold Range was Frank Hann in
1898. Boabs emblazoned with the letters FH can be found throughout the area. He
discovered and named many places that Kimberley travellers come to see today: he
found the excellent cattle country that became Mt. House Station, the Adcock River
and Bell Creek, the Manning River, Barnett Creek and Mt Barnett, Charnley River
and Mt Elizabeth... all names that you will come across again when reading about the
Gibb River Road.
The man to open up the area was WA Chief Inspecting Surveyor Fred Brockman. In a
1901 expedition that lasted from early May until late November he covered the
country starting from Wyndham, via the Cockburn range, the Pentecost, Chamberlain
and Hann Rivers to the Prince Regent River, discovering and naming the King
Edward River in September. After further exploration of the coastal areas to the west
he followed the Drysdale River back south and eventually reached his starting point
on the Pentecost from where he made it back to Wyndham.
Like Hann before him he was amazed by the country he had seen. (And so are
travellers today!)
Thinking of explorers we often think back a hundred years or more. However, the last
great exploration team to chart still unknown Kimberley regions, namely the area to the
north of the Gibb River and Karunjie Stations to Kalumburu Mission on the coast, left
Wyndham in 1954. On horse back!
17
Civilization struggles to get a foothold

For many, many years nothing much changed in the Kimberley. Glowing reports
brought hopeful settlers which met with the hardships of a rugged country with
extreme seasons, unfriendly native inhabitants, the tyranny of distances, heat, fires,
floods, tropical diseases
Cattle stations and Aboriginal Missions were isolated and scattered through the huge
country, people numbered in the hundreds to low thousands, most of them located in
Broome. The Great Depression did not help and WWII disrupted what was left of the
little that had been achieved until then.
Recent History
Things continued to happen slowly, if anything happened at all, until the 80s.
After being bombed in WWII and then seeing the pearling industry destroyed by the
advance of the plastic button, Broome was reborn as a world leading producer of
cultured pearls and, in the last fifteen years, an increasingly popular tourist
destination. (The latter applies to all of the Kimberley.)
The idea to dam the Ord River was first brought up in 1941, the main Argyle Dam
was finished in 1973. That set the stage for development around Kununurra, a town
founded only in the 60s. Kununurra started growing and booming in earnest only in
the last ten to fifteen years.
The Kimberley is VERY rich in resources like minerals, diamonds, gas and oil, but
mining of them also only commenced in the 70s and 80s. Mining, too, is an area that
only just started to boom in the most recent years, due to the increased demand.
The road connecting Broome and Kununurra was finally fully sealed in 1988. Though
several new bridges were built in the last five years the highway is still not wet season
proof. Access to some Kimberley towns can still get interrupted during each wet
season.
Civilization did win out in the end. The Kimberley towns, especially the bigger ones,
are modern and lively towns and you can feel that a lot of money is being made in the
area.
Our wild and rough reputation describes a Kimberley that existed ten to fifteen years
ago. It is mind blowing how fast things have changed. But you can also feel that all
this is the result of very recent developments and you dont have to go far to find the
Kimberley that the real explorers and adventurers saw. You can still get the sense of
the raw and powerful wilderness. There is a lot of it and it is as captivating as ever.
Alas, these days you can leave the horses in the paddock and get there in your airconditioned four wheel drive. Yes, even if youve never driven one before.
18
GEOLOGY
he complex geology of the Kimberley is the result of a turbulent history.

Volcanic eruptions, extinctions, ice ages, a tropical ocean with coral reefs
The Kimberley, a region older than imagination, has seen it all.
The oldest Proterozoic rocks were formed between 2500 and 1800 million years ago.
One major event was the collision of two fairly stable chunks of the earths crust: the
Kimberley craton and the North Australian craton, during which massive mountain
ranges were lifted up. Torrential rains washed rocks and silt from the many thousand
metre high mountains, depositing them on the plains below. Magma and lava spills
and intrusions occurred over vast areas, different materials poured over different
regions at different times.
Evidence of the Proterozoic rocks can be found in the ancient mountain ranges that
flank the main Kimberley Plateau, like the King Leopold Range. Schists, quartzites
and metamorphosed sandstone are found on the fringes of the plateau between Halls
Creek and Fitzroy and in the flat topped Carr Boyd ranges to the west. Erosion, tilting
and folding, as well as varying sea levels and kilometre thick ice sheets have changed
and sculpted the landforms you see today.
In the northern Kimberley the ancient plateau has been dissected by rivers like the
Charnley, Drysdale, Mitchell, Prince Regent and others that cut deep gorges and
waterfalls in the sandstone and volcanic rocks. The limestone, mudstone and basalt of
the Ord River headwaters area is younger (500 to 600 million years), though most of
the basalt has eroded and created large grassland areas.
One of the best known geological features is the limestone of the Devonian Reef, a
massive, horseshoe shaped barrier reef system that existed 350 to 375 million years
ago, when most of the Kimberley was at the bottom of a warm shallow sea.
The Napier range is a left over from those days. The reef extended north from there
along the margins of the Canning Basin, then turned east to follow the coast and
curled back towards the current coast line near Kununurra (well over 1000 km all up).
Thats why smaller Devonian limestone outcrops can also be found north of
Kununurra.
The Lennard and Fitzroy Rivers cut through the limestone of the Napier Range and
formed Windjana and Geikie Gorge.
The sand country is younger still. The Permian Cockatoo Sands near Kununurra are
250 million years old. The red brown Pindan, characterizing the area from Broome to
close to the Fitzroy River, is underlaid by Jurassic sediments, only 150 million years
old.
The result of it all? A country of contrasts: white beaches and turquoise waters fringe
rich pindan plains, harsh desert country covers the interior. Tropical thickets, raging
waterfalls and huge canyons and gorges characterise the central plateau and all of
those can be found within kilometres of each other.
The plateau in particular is of a raw and rugged beauty that belies its fragility. The
ancient, skeletal soils and the vulnerable sandstones and limestones are extremely
prone to erosion, both by nature and man.
19
FAUNA
he animal life in the Kimberley is varied, but this may not be immediately
obvious to the traveller. If you are just looking for big mammals you wont
find much. At least not much native wildlife
Mammals
In fact, many of the most obvious wild animals you will come across are feral
escapees that dont belong here: stray horses and cattle, wild donkeys, camels, pigs,
buffaloes and cats all do a lot of damage, as they do in other parts of Australia.
The dingo is a special case. The dingo arrived so long ago that it is regarded as native.
Dingos are common but are unfortunately viewed as a pest by many, hunted as such,
and as a result are shy and not seen all that often.
Most of our native animals are found in other parts of Australia as well, especially
across the north and in the Northern Territory.
We do have nine species of kangaroos/wallabies. You may occasionally see a big red
on the southern edges of the Kimberley, but most of the hoppers you see during your
drives will be either Agile Wallabies (also called Kimberley Wallaby) or Antelopine
Wallabies. If lucky you may also spot some of the smaller rock wallaby species while
hiking rocky slopes or in the cliffs of the gorges.
The smaller mammals that call the Kimberley home are harder to see. There is a range
of rats which are not related to rats at all but are also marsupials. But being of rat
size and on top of that often nocturnal, they are difficult to spot.
Other rarely seen mammals include the Dunnart, the Marsupial Mole and the Bilby.
Echidnas (Spiny Anteaters) can be found all over the Kimberley, although they are
not seen all that often. Bandicoots and Quolls are still fairly common, though again
not very visible.
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Reptiles and Amphibians
Agitated Frilled Lizard, Blue Tongue Lizard, sun basking Water Monitor and huge Sand Goanna.
Our most famous native animal would have to be the saltwater crocodile. Dont miss
out on visiting one of the crocodile farms, either in Broome or in Wyndham, to get a
close look at those massive ancient creatures. After joining a feeding tour you may
think twice about swimming ANYWHERE here.
(For more information on saltwater and freshwater crocodiles see the website:
www.kimberleyaustralia.com/kimberley-crocodiles.html.)
One reptile species you are almost guaranteed to see is the goanna or monitor lizard.
The most common out of the nine species in the Kimberly are the large Goulds or
Sand Goanna that you often see crossing roads, and the Mitchells Water Monitor,
often found sunning itself on rocks and logs at creeks, gorges and water holes.
Of our 28 dragon lizards the Frilled Lizard is the most famous. Its also very
common. You will most likely see it sitting on the road. This tree dwelling lizard is
very well camouflaged and hard to spot in the bush.
Blue tongue lizards (of the skink family) can be found in gardens and plantations and
any other areas with moist soft ground and lots of leaf litter etc.
All of the above lizards are most active during the wet season and harder to find
during the cool dry season.
The geckos that you find in houses are mostly of an introduced species, the Asian
House Gecko, but many native geckos can still be found in the bush. The introduced
geckos dont seem to like the bush much.
A native species that has also adapted very well to living in houses, mostly bathrooms
and toilets, is the always smiling and always relaxed Green Tree Frog.
Yes, we also have snakes in the Kimberley. The most common are the venomous
King Brown or Mulga snake (which actually belongs to the black snake family and is
easy to recognise by its large, dark rimmed scales), the huge Olive Python (can grow
to over 5 metres), the beautiful Black-headed Python, the small Childrens Python and
the Common Tree Snake. All those latter species are non-venomous and completely
harmless, but especially the bigger ones can still bite if you annoy them! So better just
leave them alone.
If you see something that looks like a snake head, sticking out of the water of a slow
flowing creek or a billabong, it is likely a Snake-necked Turtle, a very common
freshwater turtle. If you see a turtle on the coast you are most likely looking at a
Green Turtle. This is the most common sea turtle in the Kimberley, but all six
Australian sea turtles can be found on our coast.
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Birds
Black Cockatoo, Pink Galah, Blue-winged Kookaburra, Sacred Kingfisher and Pied Butcherbird
Over 300 species of birds can be found in the Kimberley and its hard to know where
to begin.
Generally overseas visitors are most interested in the colourful parrots and cockatoos.
Red-winged parrots, Rainbow Lorikeets, Pink Galahs, Northern Rosellas, as well as
the Sulphur-crested Cockatoos and the magnificent huge Black Cockatoos are all
plentiful.
Conspicuous large birds are the beautiful Jabiru, Australias only stork, and the
Brolgas, which often congregate in very large flocks. Also found near water are
herons, egrets, ibises and bitterns as well as a range of geese and ducks. Magpie
Geese and Whistling Ducks are the most common and the characteristic voice of the
ducks can often be heard at billabongs.
What else are you likely to see? The iridescent Rainbow Bee-eaters are acrobatic
hunters and the large Bowerbirds are clowns. (Dont leave any keys, coins, jewellery
or similar lying around if you see Bowerbirds!) Just as funny to watch are the large
family groups of energetic and always busy and noisy Silver-crowned Babblers.
Blue-winged Kookaburras often make a huge racket in the evenings. If you hear a
beautiful deep warbling instead, look for the glossy black head of the Pied
Butcherbird.
The most distinctive member of the pigeon family is the Spinifex Pigeon, but we have
many other doves and pigeons as well. There is also a huge variety of finches, wrens,
honeyeaters in short, we have lots of everything.
ALL Australian species of birds of prey have been recorded in the Kimberley.
Consider that the Australian Atlas of Birds lists 760 species and that over 300 of those
can be found here, in this one small corner, and you will rest assured that the birdlife
will not disappoint.
The wetlands of Lake Argyle, Lake Kununurra and the now permanent flow of the
lower Ord River are a haven for birds and the area is accessible and easy to explore.
Parry Creek Nature Reserve near Wyndham is another birder highlight in the same
area.
Other good areas are the Point Spring Nature Reserve north of Kununurra and the
rainforest pockets on the Mitchell Plateau.
And last but not least there is of course the worlds top shorebird and wader location:
the Broome Bird Observatory on Roebuck Bay.
22
FLORA
f there is any region in Australia that is immediately associated with one single
plant species, any Australian plant that may as well stand for a region, then it is
the boab tree of the Kimberley.
The massive bulk of those ancient giants, topped by twisted skeletal branches, the
endless variety of shapes that seems to give each of the trees its own unique
personality, their silhouettes against the horizon, those are among the most enduring
images in the memory of any Kimberley traveller.
The Australian boab tree (Adansonia gregorii) is related to the Madagascan and
African Adansonia species known as baobabs. There are two theories about how
boabs arrived in Australia. One says the seeds have floated here from Africa and
spread from the coast. The other theory suggests boabs might have survived from the
time when Africa and Australia were both still part of one continent, the ancient
Gondwana, 65 million years ago.
A mature boab tree is a sight to behold. Though not exceptionally high, up to 15
metres, they appear huge. The name bottle tree relates to the swollen trunk that can
reach a massive girth of up to 20 metres. But it takes many hundred if not thousand
years to grow one of those impressive specimens. Boab trees are deciduous; they drop
all their leaves during the dry season. Since the dry season is the main tourist season
most travellers only get to see the grey brown skeletons.
The Kimberley has other plant species. Over 2000 are known so far and new species
are still being discovered among the smaller plants and the less accessible regions and
pockets of rainforest. About 350 of the species are endemic to the Kimberley region.
The most noticeable plants after the boabs are as in the rest of Australia the
Eucalypts and Acacias (gum trees and wattles).
Some Eucalypts that you may be able to identify are the Northern Salmon Gum
(bright salmon bark weathering to white), the Snappy Gum with its pure white bark,
the Woolybutt (white bark on the branches and a wooly rough brown bark covering
the trunk), the Silver Box, which can look as if all covered in silver if viewed from a
rise, and the tall, straight Darwin Stringybark, the most common tree in the
woodlands and remarkable for being so unremarkable. A gum with a patchy, reddish
shedding bark likely belongs to one of the many Bloodwood species and huge heart
shaped leaves and a white trunk identify a Cabbage Gum.
Those are just some of the most common of the over 50 species of Eucalypts at home
in the Kimberley. The twice as many Acacia species are more difficult to tell apart,
unless you catch them when they flower, usually bright yellow, early in the dry
season. The flowers are tiny, appear as somewhat fluffy balls or elongated shapes, and
the trees or shrubs are often totally covered in them.
The generally short lived wattles are legumes, pioneers and soil improvers. You find
them in large numbers in areas where the soil has been disturbed. Unfortunately you
also find many wattle species that were introduced from other parts of Australia.
Those prickly invaders can form dense thickets, preventing stock and native animal
from accessing water.
23
An easy to identify species is the Paperbark (Melaleuca). The bark peels off in thick,
fluffy sheets, reminiscent of many sheets of paper. Paperbarks occur in swampy areas
and along water courses, usually as nearly pure stands. Birds, insects and fruit bats
love the rich nectar of the flowers and the sweet smell is strong near waterholes.
Grevilleas are small, shrubby trees. They display unusual and intricate flowers from
May to July, so many travellers get to see them.
The Kimberley also has several native fig species. Many of them have edible fruit
(though not particularly palatable). You find them along watercourses, creek banks
and clinging to cliffs near waterfalls and in gorges.
Palms are not the first thing you associate with the Kimberley, unless you think of the
Mitchell Plateau. Five species of palm occur in the Kimberley, all of the genus
Livistona. Usually they appear only in small pockets. But on the Mitchell Plateau L.
eastonii totally dominates the landscape. The Bungle Bungle range has its own fan
palm, L. victoriae, which is common in the area, but not found anywhere else.
The Pandanus or Screw Palm is a pretty looking tall plant, common along
watercourses and growing over 5 metres tall. It has a slender, sometimes branching
stem and up to 2 m long leaves spirally arranged at the top. It is less pretty to make
contact with it as the serrated leaves have very sharp spines! The large reddish fruit
breaks into segments when ripe and can be made edible by roasting.
You will probably notice some other plants because of their characteristic flowers:
Very low shrubs that seem to throw a yellow blanket over the landscape are usually
Cassias. The Kapok tree carries bright yellow, five petaled flowers on its totally bare
branches. The flowers develop into large pods that burst open to reveal the fluffy,
cottony interior.
Calytrix is also called Kimberley Heather. Like heather it is absolutely covered in
masses of tiny, pinkish mauve flowers, but rather than being a ground cover the shrub
can grow to 4 m.
The Pink Mulla Mulla can be found in all parts of Australia. The large, distinctive and
numerous flower spikes of the low perennial are a pretty sight on rocky slopes,
gravelly road sides and sand dunes.
ECOLOGICAL THREATS
upposedly the Kimberley is pristine, untouched, the worlds largest true

wilderness. In reality there are probably few areas within the Kimberley that
have not been influenced by man in some way or other. And thats without
taking into account any effects of global warming.
If you prefer to maintain the illusion of an untouched wilderness and to enjoy it in
blissful oblivion of the problems we are facing, then skip this chapter. It is not a
happy one, but I dont like to turn a blind eye.
Humans affect the Kimberley in many ways, directly and indirectly. Direct influences
can be seen everywhere we live. Land is cleared, roads are built, rivers are dammed,
rubbish is dumped and so on.
24
Extensive cattle grazing, combined with the damage that cattle do to the fragile soils
just by wandering around, has led to serious erosion problems. Cattle also change the
species distribution by eating what they like best, leaving unpalatable plants behind,
which soon dominate the landscape.
Once the balance is upset its easy for introduced weeds to get a foothold. Many
introduced weeds grow much more vigorously than local plants and outcompete and
displace the native vegetation. Once the plant balance is upset it will upset the life
cycle of animals that depend on those plant communities for food, shelter or breeding.
The problems are most obvious in the lowlands along the Ord and Fitzroy Rivers in
the south and east. This is the centre of the Kimberley cattle industry and also where
the cattle industry started. Large areas are badly eroded and its impossible to
overlook the weed problem.
Once weeds have gained a foot hold they spread. If the seeds have spikes and burrs
then animals spread them. If the seed is encapsulated in fruit flesh then the birds
spread them. Wet season floods spread seeds downstream. Then you have vehicles
and tourists helping along, too, by transporting seeds and soil on their cars, their
clothes and their hiking boots. It quickly becomes impossible to contain any
infestation.
Noogoora Burr was one of the earliest and worst infestations that led to big areas
along the Ord and Fitzroy being quarantined, but today there are dozens of exotics
that have joined Noogoora Burr. Some of them were introduced accidentally but many
were brought in deliberately: as good cattle feed, as possible agricultural crops, as
garden plants.
Introduced animals are just as destructive. Wild donkeys, horses, camels, buffaloes
and pigs have already been mentioned. Few overseas visitors are aware that cats are a
serious threat and plague. The numbers of feral cats are exploding across all of
Australia. This are not your cute little pussy cats any more. Our feral cats are large,
vicious, supremely adaptable and highly efficient killers. Our native birds and lizards
are no match for them.
Another potential disaster is knocking on our doors, coming in from the east. The
highly poisonous cane toad is continuing its unstoppable march across northern
Australia and has already reached the eastern parts of the Kimberley.
Any native animals that prey on frogs and toads are at risk. Freshwater crocodile and
goanna populations have plummeted or disappeared wherever the cane toad became
established in the Northern Territory.
Now emergency programs are under way to relocate vulnerable species like the
Northern Quoll to offshore islands in the hope to save them from extinction. The rare
pygmy crocodile probably wont be so lucky. It has disappeared from its location in
Arnhem Land and now the cane toads are about to set up residence in the only other
waterhole, on the WA border, where this rare species has been recorded. Only
discovered and already lost.
Despite the impressive fight that the Kununurra community has put up there is no
solution in sight. Some money is being spent in the Kimberley to at least survey and
record what we are about to lose, but at this point that seems to be all we can do. The
cane toads will become established sooner or later.
25
Lake Argyle and the now permanent flow of the lower Ord River have changed the
face of the area forever. While the Ramsar protected new wetlands are an attraction
and bird paradise in their own right, they are man made and the project brought a host
of other problems with it.
The nasty open channel system that is used in the Ord River Irrigation Area leads to
massive evaporation and seepage, which means rising groundwater levels and salinity.
Broad acre crops like melons or pumpkins are flood irrigated, leading to run-off of
nutrients and chemicals into the channels, rivers and groundwater. Many fields are
bare over the wet, so top soil is washed and blown away.
Increased run-off of solids, combined with the lack of the annual wet season flush
means the mouth of the tamed and controlled Ord is silting up. So is the main Argyle
dam because of erosion due to the clearing and damage from overgrazing in the
catchment area.
The rest of the coast is also under threat. Illegal fishing and increasing tourism are
already upsetting the marine systems and damaging the world class reefs. Reefs that
the world does not even know about yet! The Rowley Shoals off Broome are
considered the worlds best kept underwater secret.
Industrialisation
It keeps getting worse. The Western Australian government is committed to major
industrialisation and agricultural development across the whole of the Kimberley.
In other words, it is committed to the total destruction of the Kimberley.
A Japanese corporation planned to build a gas processing plant on the Marets, a major
tidal area in the middle of the main humpback whale calving grounds. Scared off by
the outcry, Inpex has since chosen Darwin, but several other companies including
Woodside have also submitted proposals to develop the Browse Basin.
The WA government had picked James Prices Point on the Dampier Peninsula to
build the controversial gas plant and used bullying tactics to force the project through,
despite massive protests and less than enthusiastic responses from Woodside's
prospective joint venture partners. The Broome community put up a heroic fight,
spread the word, the project met resistance from all over the world and eventually
Woodside pulled out, but our government hasn't given up yet. Hell-bent is too mild
a word to describe its attitude towards industrialisation of the Kimberley.
The 10 week oil spill disaster in August 2009 on the West Atlas rig off the Kimberley
coast was Australias worst rig-based oil spill and possibly Australia's worst oil spill
ever. 23 million litres of oil spilled into the Timor Sea between August 21 and
November 3. It took 74 days to plug the flow temporarily and 3 weeks to tow a repair
rig to the site because the company declined the offer of another rig nearby. Then
dispersants, toxic chemicals that kill coral spawn, were used in the cleanup. That's a
procedure that has been criticised by leading scientists.
50 000 square km are estimated to be affected by the spill and oil slicks came within
69 km of the coast. The spill was grossly mishandled and also kept quiet/swept under
the carpet.
When the Japanese planned to slaughter 50 of the whales for research purposes in
2008, the public outcry was massive. While atrocious, the slaughter would not have
affected the population which numbers over 10000. A gas plant would affect it and a
host of other rare and endangered species. The oil spill already did massive, untold
26
damage and the Western Australian government is still pushing hard for the unwanted
and unwarranted developments to go ahead.
Whatever happens, it would be only the first step. The associated infrastructure
upgrades would open the door for strip mining for bauxite on the Mitchell Plateau,
alumina refineries and coal and uranium mining.
The Mitchell Plateau faces total destruction as the government quietly does what it
can to enable bauxite mining development on the plateau. Bauxite mining is strip
mining. The whole top of the plateau could disappear, and with it the sponge that
stores the wet season water and keeps the rivers and creeks and falls up there flowing
until late into the dry season. It's that sponge that enables the unique ecosystem and
the many endemic species in it to exist.
We may soon say good bye to the rainforests and to many plant and animal species on
the Mitchell Plateau, forever.
Fires
Many people here can't imagine camping without a camp fire. A fire is often needed
for cooking (take a little gas cooker, duh!) and is just as important to socialise around
and spin yarns in the evening.
Well, in many areas, especially national parks and conservation areas, fires are not
allowed. Period. In other parts of the Kimberley fires may be allowed at times and fire
bans may be in place at other times.
Part of the reason for the bans is the risk of bush fires. I guarantee that no matter when
you visit, you will see bush fires on your travels. The whole Kimberley burns, every
year. Most travellers assume these are managed burns or that it is necessary for the
country to burn so new seeds can germinate. Nonsense.
Very few of those fires are managed, though many have been lit on purpose. Arson is
a big problem, but so are fires that are lit accidentally. In short, fires are a big
problem, a big threat to the ecological balance of the Kimberley region. As if we
needed another one.
Yes, this country evolved to burn and many species need fire. But they need it at the
right time of the year and certainly not every year. What you see on the horizon is far
too much.
There is another issue with camp fires. Wood is a somewhat scarce resource here. In
some regions it's scarcer than in others and some areas are frequented by more people
than others. In many places fires are forbidden to protect this valuable resource.
In some places fires are allowed, but you can only burn the provided wood. That
ensures that only a limited amount of wood is taken from any area and that it is taken
in a sustainable way.
Please do keep that in mind, even when fires are allowed. Collect wood where it is
plentiful and only use what you really need. Make a campfire, not a bonfire. And
ensure you extinguish it properly before moving on. See above.
Please observe fire bans.
Please stay on the roads and tracks.
Please dont spread weed seeds.
27
THE CLIMATE
he Kimberley is located north of the Tropic of Capricorn. Our tropical

monsoon climate is defined by a distinct wet season and dry season. You find
this climate across all of Australia's North. There is no spring, summer, autumn
and winter. It's either hot and dry or stinking hot and humid/wet. The time from May
to October is the dry season, November to April the wet season.
The table below shows how the Kimberley seasons relate to the seasons in your part
of the world.
Northern Hemisphere
(eg. US, Europe)
Summer
Winter
Southern Hemisphere
(eg. SE Australia, NZ)
Winter
Summer
Kimberley
Dry Season
Wet Season
(This is of course a very broad generalisation. You will find weather details for all
months in Part III: General Travel Information.)
The Monsoon Climate

The word monsoon was originally used to describe a seasonal wind pattern in the
Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean, but the definition has since been broadened. Today
the term describes an annual cycle of dramatic weather events in the Asian, African and
Australian tropical regions. Actually, only the wet season is dramatic.
The dry season is characterised by clear blue skies, easterly winds and warm days with
some chilly nights. The weather is very stable and outdoor events can be planned years
in advance. It won't rain. Every day is perfect and beautiful.
The wet season is a different story. It is hot and humid, sometimes violent and above all
unpredictable. During this hotter time of the year the land heats up a lot more than the
ocean does. Hot air rises, low pressure systems form and suck in moist air from the
oceans. The air cools, moisture condenses and it rains. Simple enough, but impressive to
watch in real life!
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Part II: General Travel Information

GETTING THERE
VISA INFORMATION
Unless you are an Aussie or a Kiwi (New Zealander) you need a visa to enter
Australia.
For most tourists the ETA (Electronic Travel Authority, class 601) or eVisitors visa
(class 651) replaces the old style paper visa and stamp in the passport. An electronic
visa is included if you book a package holiday. It can also be arranged by your travel
agent or by your airline if you book your flight directly with them. So usually you
don't have to worry about a thing, it's all done for you.
This visa allows you to stay in Australia for up to three months.
If you want to stay in Australia for longer, or if for some reason you need to arrange
your electronic visa yourself, you can find all the necessary information, download
application forms, apply online and pay online at the very user friendly website of the
Department of Immigration and Multicultural Affairs: www.immi.gov.au
FLYING
The Kimberley is somewhat out of the way. Most overseas visitors fly into Melbourne
or Sydney. Well, unfortunately (or should I say luckily?) we are on the opposite
corner of the continent.
Qantas offers daily direct flights between Perth and Broome and flies at least weekly
between Perth and Kununurra as well as between Brisbane and Broome.
(www.qantas.com.au)
Air North is a Qantas partner airline and flies between Darwin, Kununurra and
Broome and sometimes Kununurra-Perth. (www.airnorth.com.au, code share with
Qantas)
Skywest has been acquired by Virgin Australia, which means Virgin now flies
between Darwin, Kununurra, Derby, Broome, Perth and other Australian cities.
(www.virginaustralia.com/au/en/skywest)
No real budget carrier services our neck of the woods. All flights to the Kimberley are
expensive. The earlier you book the better your chances to get a good price.
29
DRIVING
Driving can be a very attractive option for those who have the time. (Car hire details
can be found in the chapter Facilities/Costs and in the chapters for individual towns.)
From Darwin:
The 860 km trip from Darwin via Katherine to Kununurra is one of the most scenic
drives you can do in this country. On the way lie Kakadu and Litchfield National
Park, the Katherine Gorge, Gregory National Park and the Keep River National Park.
And in between the parks this drive simply has some of the best scenery in all of
Australia.
You can cover the distance in a single day. Three to five days allow for some stops in
the parks. (I recommend Litchfield, Katherine Gorge and Keep River for a shorter
trip.) If you want to have a good look around plan for one to two weeks. If you want
to really explore the region allow more. (And get Destination Top End.)
From Perth:
Driving from Perth is also a possibility, but only recommended for people who have
at least four weeks or more available for the whole trip (whole trips means including
your time in the Kimberley).
You can cover the over 2400 km distance from Perth to Broome in two to three days.
Take a week and you'll see a few things. I recommend no less than two weeks to
really make it worthwhile to drive all that distance.
Here are a few places you will probably want to look at on the way:
Pinnacles Desert
Kalbarri
Monkey Mia
Coral Bay
Exmouth
Karijini National Park
Millstream-Chichester National Park
Eighty Mile Beach
From Alice Springs:

For people coming from central Australia the Tanami Road is an interesting short cut
from Alice Springs to Halls Creek (a distance of about 1050 km). You don't need to
be a hard core adventurer to cross the Tanami Desert. Any reliable 4WD vehicle is up
to the job, no matter how inexperienced the driver. Depending on the road conditions
it can, however, at times be a slow and tiring drive. (A chapter with all the necessary
information about the Tanami Road is included in this guide.)
The alternative is the over 1600 km drive along the highway, via Tennant Creek
(Devils Marbles), Mataranka and Katherine to Kununurra. (This area, including the
Alice Springs and Uluru region, may be covered in a future guide, Destination Red
Centre.)
30
By Bus:
Greyhound operates between Darwin, Kununurra and Broome. To give you an idea
what you are in for, here are the driving times:
Broome-Darwin: 23.5 hrs
Broome-Kununurra: 13 hrs
Kununurra-Darwin: 10.5 hrs
See their website for current details on prices, passes and specials.
(www.greyhound.com.au)
AGRICULTURAL QUARANTINE
Many travellers are not aware of our agricultural quarantine until they reach the
checkpoint at the Western Australia - Northern Territory border. Only then do they
find out what you can and can't bring into the Kimberley. Often it means that a lot of
perfectly good fruit and vegetables end up in the border checkpoint rubbish bins.
You can not bring fresh fruit, vegetables and some other things into the Kimberley or
Western Australia!
Restricted Items
Fresh fruit and vegetables (including your home dried fruit and even used
fruit/vegetable containers),
honey (bees can get diseases and mites),
walnuts,
plants, seeds, cut flowers,
soil, sand,
any used agricultural bags and containers (like potato sacks, wheat bags, chaff
bags, fruit and vegetable cartons and styrofoam boxes).
Permitted Items
cooked and tinned food,

dairy and meat products,
frozen fresh food (except for apples, grapes, stone-fruit, paw paw, blueberry,
unpeeled mango, onion and potatoes),
processed foods (flour, biscuits, fruit cake, dried packet foods, pickles,
relishes, jams and fruit juice/cordial),
and you can bring your cat or dog without problems.
For more details see www.agric.wa.gov.au/quarantine/quarantine-wa or call 9334 1800.
31
Agricultural Quarantine: What exactly is it? Why is it in place?

Australia has very strict quarantine laws and regulations. These restrictions don't usually
cause problems for the average traveller. Nobody flies into Australia with bags full of
soil or fresh produce.
It's a different story when people travel around Australia. Backpackers, campers and
caravanners are usually self sufficient rather than relying on restaurants and often they
carry fresh food stuffs in their vehicles.
Well, not only Australia as a whole is worried about travellers importing pests and
diseases. Many weeds, pests and diseases that are present on the populated east coast
haven't reached Western Australia yet, thanks to the incredible amounts of empty, dry
country in between.
However, seeds, bugs, their eggs, spores, microbes etc. can of course travel on plants,
fruits and vegetables when they are transported. Therefore a lot of those can't be moved
between states unless they are treated and certified.
If you fly into WA you have to declare restricted items at the airport or risk big fines.
People driving into the Kimberley from the east have to pass the checkpoint on the
Victoria Highway between Katherine and Kununurra, about 40 km east of Kununurra.
This Kimberley border checkpoint is particularly strict, because not only are you
entering Western Australia, you are also entering the Ord River Irrigation Area (the
area around Kununurra). The ORIA is a major tropical fruit growing area and it is the
only area within Western Australia that is free of damaging Mediterranean fruit flies.
The same rules also apply if you approach the ORIA from the west (driving to
Kununurra from Broome), though there is no permanent checkpoint, just big signs and
disposal bins. You may, however, come across a mobile checkpoint.
Fruit flies are not just an inconvenience. Due to our isolation, the long distances to
markets and the associated costs, the growers here rely on that fruit fly free status. To
lose it would place a huge financial burden on agricultural businesses in the area and
would make some of them not viable.
So please, don't do what I so often see proudly reported on travel blogs: don't hide
your fruit and vegetables to get them through the checkpoint. You may save a few
cents, but you may also wipe out someone's livelihood.
When you leave Katherine, only take as much fresh food as you will eat before you
reach Western Australia and Kununurra.
More information: 9334 1800, https://www.agric.wa.gov.au/...
32
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT

I get many questions along the lines of, "We plan to go in April/June/September. We
really want to see ... but wonder if ... What are your thoughts?"
So, here are my thoughts:
(Tables with the temperature averages are at the end of this chapter. But averages
don't mean much. Our climate is characterised by its extremes.)
April
April is the pre-start of the dry season and the pre-start of the tourist season. SOME of
the tours that close over the wet season start operating again. SOME of the more out
of the way places and accommodations open. For example El Questro station
traditionally opens for tourists on April 1. IF possible.
You MAY be able to get into the Bungles IF your car (and the driver) can handle deep
water. You MAY be able to see parts of the Gibb River Road, but probably you won't
be able to drive all the way through. The Pentecost River will likely stop you.
On the other hand there is also the chance that the Kimberley will see a late cyclone
and that means there is a chance of flooding. Even the highway could get closed for a
few days. It's still pretty warm (day temp. can be above 35C) and sticky and you need
insect repellent to sit outside in the evenings.
On the upside, April is definitely a great month for nature enthusiasts and a great
month to see the waterfalls and rivers still raging and that IS an awesome sight. The
Kimberley is most beautiful during and immediately after the wet. There is no doubt
about that.
When people ask me, "Will we be able to do this or that?" all I can say is, "I don't
know."
(See the appendix for where to get detailed information about road conditions.)
Every wet season is different and nobody can predict what you will find. April is
for people who are adventurous, flexible, can take enough time, and who are willing
to take it as it comes and make the most of what they find.
May
This is the month when things really kick into gear. All the tourism businesses are
operating and most roads are open. However, there is no guarantee that the Gibb
River Road will be open. The later in May you arrive, the better your chances.
The last roads to open, usually a few weeks after the Gibb River Road opens, are the
Kalumburu Road and the track up to the Mitchell Falls.
Catching the gorges and waterfalls along the Gibb River Road at their best is a gamble
for overseas tourists. You have to book your trip well in advance, yet nobody can
predict when the roads will open until a few weeks or even days beforehand. And
even then there is no guarantee!
33
If you plan to venture off the beaten track make sure you get the latest updates about
the state of the road.
Downsides: early May can still be warm and sticky. Also, nobody told the mosquitoes
that the wet season is over.
In my personal opinion May is the best time to see the Kimberley. All the roads open
at different times and all the attractions are at their best at different times. You can
never see everything at its best. A trip in May offers a good compromise.
One word of warning: Broome gets very busy a lot earlier than all other places. Book
ahead. Anything you want to do in Broome, accommodation, car hire, tours, book
ahead. By the time the season gets under way Broome is already booked solid.
June
By mid to late June we start getting into the peak season and everything gets very
busy. Most travel agents and tourism mammoths say June to August is the best time. I
think that depends what you are looking for. June to August is certainly the time with
the most pleasant day temperatures. (But chilly nights!)
June is a good time for people who want to make sure they can see all of the Gibb
River Road and the Mitchell Plateau and also for people who are very worried about
the four wheel driving, but who'd love to see the more out of the way places on their
own.
You will still find a lot of water in the pools, but by the end of June the smaller falls
can already be reduced to a trickle or dry. (Not the Mitchell Falls, though. After a
really good wet season they can flow well into September, but of course the flow rate
will be less and less.)
The dry season is dry. Blue skies and wonderful temperatures are guaranteed every day.
At least that's what we all knew and that's what the tourists knew who were out and
about along the Gibb River Road, on the Mitchell Plateau and in the Bungles in June
2007.
And then it rained. And rained. And rained. It rained on and off for over a week. Not a
little stray cloud and a bit of drizzle, but constant, solid, soaking rain that led to
extended road closures and had people stranded for many days. The sun did not show at
all for over a week, the North-West was under a solid blanket of thick clouds.
Huh? If anybody had suggested such a weather event may occur, we would have
laughed at them. It still seems impossible that it happened. Seems.
The reality is that nothing is impossible any more. Sure, June 2007 was a freak event.
Nobody expects anything like that to happen again. But things appear to be changing.
The climate is shifting and the wet seasons are becoming even more unpredictable.
Oh, and it rained in June in 2008 again. (Though not as much.) It didn't rain seriously in
2009, but there were days when it looked as if it might ...
And then there was 2010, when May was as wet as March and it still rained in June! It
hasn't gotten any more reliable since. What can I say... When it comes to the end of our
wet seasons there are no guarantees, ever.
34
July/August
Tourist numbers are peaking from mid June to mid August. School summer holidays
in the northern hemisphere overlap with school holidays in Australia. This is a very
busy time of the year anywhere in the Kimberley. Yes, it's nice and cool during the
days, but it is also getting progressively dry and dusty.
Everything is packed. There is a steady procession of caravans trundling along the
highway and a similar procession of 4WD campervans on the Gibb River Road.
Campgrounds fill up early so if you want a good spot be there early! Book
accommodation ahead where possible, definitely book well ahead if you want to hire
any vehicle and avoid Broome best as you can. (The second half of August is quieter.)
The cooler weather offers the best opportunities to see crocodiles, especially in the
mornings. They will be lazing on river banks and logs to warm themselves.
Fishermen and -women take note: the colder the rivers the harder it gets to catch
barramundi!
September
Now it starts to noticeably warm up and the place noticeably clears out. Every year
we have a week or two of hot weather in late August/early September. It makes all the
Australian winter escapees hitch up their vans, point their vehicles south and head off.
But then we usually get several more weeks of reasonable temperatures. (Though it's a
gamble regarding when exactly that will be.) September is not a bad time IF you don't
mind hot weather. The heat is still very dry and therefore very bearable. The nights
are still reasonably cool and camping is great. No bugs and you don't freeze your bum
off. Late in September the longer hikes during the day can become strenuous and
especially among the rocks of the Bungle Bungle range you will feel the heat!
October
This is the very last month of the tourist season and there aren't many people around.
Some businesses start to shut their doors, depending on their location and offerings.
It will get hot and hotter, even a bit humid, and you will see the first storm clouds
piling up on the horizon. There may be the odd downpour bringing welcome relief,
but don't count on it. The countryside is all brown and even the big waterholes are
now stagnant and smelly, if not totally dry.
If you plan to go camping take into account that the nights can be stifling. Long drives
in cars without air-conditioning become unbearable. Plan any walks for the early
morning hours, go for a swim in the afternoon if possible, (or do your driving then if
you have air-con).
One reader asked me if I think he's crazy planning a camping trip for October. Well, I
can't call him crazy. My first visit to the Kimberley was in October and I fell in love
with the place and stayed. So if you think you can handle the heat...
The best way to deal with the heat is to be active (within reason), to drink lots and to
not think about it. We just ignore it. You can do the same.
Upsides: From my point of view... I can drive to the supermarket or post office and
park near the door. Just like that!
35
November
By November everything looks parched and burned and everybody is looking towards
the sky. When will it rain? Some years the rain comes early, some years you think it
will never happen.
The tourist season is definitely over. Most tourism businesses have closed and it's just
too hot to even think about doing anything. Camping is no fun in this weather.
Afternoon showers can cool things down for a few hours, but gradually the Kimberley
just turns into one big sauna. The first roads get closed.
In my opinion it's the worst month for a visit to the Kimberley. That doesn't mean you
can't do anything while you're here. (See below.) But if you can somehow plan things
differently, I would...
The only upside: its mango season!
December to March: the Wet Season

If your only chance to come here would be during the wet season, does it make sense
to visit the Kimberley during that time of the year? Or is it madness?
I think it makes sense. Many locals consider the wet season the best time of the year
and so do I. But it is important to understand that a wet season visit is a totally
different experience from what you see advertised for the average Kimberley holiday.
Depending on what you are looking for it may not make sense for you.
And it is important to understand just how unpredictable the wet season is!
We can't predict when it starts. We've had years with freak early storms in September,
we've had years where it hardly rained at all until March.
November/December most rain falls in form of thunderstorms in the evenings, over
night into the early mornings. (If it rains at all...) The country is very dry and can
absorb staggering amounts of water. Flooding is very unlikely. It's an uncomfortable
time of the year, stinking hot, but at least you won't get stuck. The highway should be
open. Unsealed roads, however, will mostly be closed.
The thunderstorms are an awe-inspiring experience. The purple and green clouds pile
up on the horizon, roll in, the temperature drops, with the first clap of thunder the
wind starts to howl and then the tension of the whole day releases in a sudden
deluge... ankle deep water rushing down the roads within minutes... The spectacle is
followed by a lightning show on the horizon that lasts for hours and a deafening frog
concert that lasts all night.
Christmas, New Year and early January our towns look like ghost towns. NOTHING
is open, except for the supermarket, post office and pub. And those are empty. This is
when EVERYBODY goes on their well deserved holiday. For most business owners
it's the only time of the year they can afford to take a big break.
January to March can be very wet and the temperatures drop. Cyclones are always a
possibility. In between cyclones it can be sunny and hot for weeks. If a cyclone or
tropical low pressure trough comes through you may experience up to a week of low,
grey skies and non stop rain.
36
Only the coastal towns need to worry about the destructive winds, but the rain and
floods reach far inland.
The highway ALWAYS floods and gets cut off at some stage. But we can't tell you
ahead when, where, or for how long. If you have to be somewhere at a certain date,
fly. Don't plan to drive across the Kimberley unless you can afford to be a week late.
The humidity is extreme. The dishes in the cupboard look as if they haven't been
dried, the clothes that you don't wear smell stale, we use Exit Mould for deodorant and
wardrobe desiccators are the hottest selling item.
As far as sightseeing goes, there are still many things you can do here. Broome will be
humid but at least there will be some room to breathe.
You may be able to get to Cape Leveque. (Fly, if you need to.) At Cape Leveque you
can even swim in the ocean. (You can't in Broome, because its stinger (jellyfish)
season.)
Scenic flights along the northern coast are spectacular! The falls are at their best in the
wet and many are only visible from the air.
You may be able to get into Windjana Gorge or Geikie Gorge. There are scenic flights
over the Bungles, river cruises or canoe trips on the Ord in Kununurra and lots of
smaller waterfalls and swimming holes that don't even exist during the dry.
The land is lush and green and fresh and clean. You can watch things grow and all the
wildlife is frantically mating and breeding. Granted, you can't go far, but you don't
have to. There are rock pools and waterfalls absolutely everywhere and the
barramundi are biting like crazy.
To visit during the wet season you need to take time, you need to be willing to put up
with the inconveniences, and you need to have a real appreciation for nature. Not so
much for nature as a pretty back drop, but for nature as a force, a powerful and
humbling life force that pulsates through the whole place.
(See the appendix for where to get detailed weather forecasts and information about
road conditions and closures.)
37
Average Temperatures in the Kimberley

Averages are only a rough guideline. The daily maximum/minimum can easily be ten
or more degrees above/below the average. Also, humidity adds another dimension.
Broome might be cooler in summer, but that does not mean its more comfortable.
All the temperatures in the table are in degrees Celsius.
The west coast (Broome), the south (Halls Creek) and the eastern border (Kununurra):
Broome
average
daily max
average
night min
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
33.3 32.9 33.9 34.3 31.5 29.2 28.8 30.3 31.7 32.8 33.5 33.8
26.3 25.9 25.4 22.5 18.2 15.3 13.6 15.0 18.4 22.3 25.0 26.4
Halls Creek Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
average
36.4 35.3 35.1 33.3 30.0 27.2 27.3 30.3 34.1 37.0 38.2 37.7
daily max
average
24.3 23.8 22.9 20.5 17.1 13.9 13.1 15.6 19.5 22.9 24.6 24.8
nightly min
Kununurra Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
average
36.2 35.6 35.4 35.3 32.9 30.3 30.6 34.0 36.3 38.3 38.6 38.0
daily max
average
25.0 24.9 24.2 21.7 19.1 15.9 15.2 17.9 21.2 23.9 25.5 25.7
nightly min
The Gibb River Road (Mt Elizabeth Station) and the far north (Mitchell Plateau):
Mt Elizabeth Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
average
33.1 32.3 32.2 32.4 30.1 28.0 28.4 30.4 34.1 36.1 36.3 34.0
daily max
average
22.0 21.8 20.3 16.9 12.2 9.0 8.0 9.4 14.9 19.5 21.8 22.3
nightly min
Mitchell Pl. Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
average
32.5 32.1 32.7 33.2 31.7 29.6 30.1 32.5 34.5 35.7 36.0 34.5
daily max
average
22.8 22.6 21.9 18.6 14.8 11.2 9.7 12.7 16.4 20.0 22.3 23.0
nightly min
38
ITINERARY PLANNING
How much time should you take? How much time do you need to see everything?
How much is enough?
It's not uncommon for Australians to escape to Broome for a long weekend. You can
find some amazing packages during the off season. If all you want to do is relax on
the beaches, slurp some cocktails and enjoy a stroll while gazing at the most amazing
sunsets this planet has to offer... Go for it. Better to recharge the batteries for three
days than not at all.
Five days give you a chance to have a good look around the Broome area and enjoy a
night or two at Cape Leveque. An alternative is to combine a Broome stay and a
round trip to Derby, Tunnel Creek & Windjana Gorge (one night), Geikie
Gorge/Fitzroy Crossing and back to Broome. Make it seven nights and combine all of
the above. Or add one more night and see at least Bell Gorge on the Gibb River Road.
For a trip from Broome to Kununurra on the highway, taking in Derby, the above
parks and the Bungle Bungle, you should take a minimum of four to five nights (one
or two in the Bungles). This does not include any time spent in Broome or
Kununurra. 2WDrivers have to skip the Bungles, so you only need two to three nights.
For a trip from Derby to Kununurra along the Gibb River Road, again including
Tunnel Creek and Windjana, but without the Mitchell Plateau, I recommend a
minimum of four nights. To include the Mitchell Plateau add at least another two.
Of course, you can drive from Broome/Derby to Kununurra in a single day, both on
the highway or via the Gibb River Road. But you won't see anything. The suggested
times give you time to see the main attractions. Quickly. You will need more if you
want to enjoy some time camping and exploring, or get off the beaten track..
For Gibb River Road adventurers who want to see the Bungles but who are not
returning to the starting point of their trip: allow two nights for a round trip from
Kununurra to the Bungles and back, or all you do is driving. Add a third night and
use the Duncan Road for one leg, instead of backtracking on the highway.
You can see Kununurra in a day. Add a day each for an excursion to Wyndham,
Lake Argyle or Emma Gorge/El Questro.
From Kununurra you can drive to Darwin in a single day if you are in a hurry, or in a
week, taking in all the national parks on the way. (Keep River, Gregory, Katherine
Gorge, Litchfield and Kakadu.)
The above times are the minimum I recommend for the individual areas. Mix and
match as required. You can get through faster, but then you have to start skipping
things. Sometimes that's the only option.
To see "everything", or rather to see all the main attractions as covered in this guide,
I suggest a minimum stay of three weeks. Four weeks to include some sightseeing on
the way to Darwin. If you have more time, all the better!
(For more detail, see the Kimberley and Gibb River Road itinerary companion booklet
that was included as a bonus download.)
39
GETTING AROUND
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Public transport is a possibility, but certainly not the most attractive option to see a
remote wilderness region. Having said that, thousands of backpackers and budget
travellers arrive in the Kimberley each year and they get around just fine.
Greyhound was already mentioned in a previous chapter. Their service stops at all
towns. If you need to get off in between (say you made an arrangement with someone
from a cattle station to pick you up) let the driver know. Usually they pull up for you.
Unfortunately they have dropped their service between Perth and Broome and these
days only service Broome Darwin.
TOURS
If you don't have your own transport, or if you have a 2WD, or if you are towing a
caravan, then you can see the less accessible places by joining a tour.
There is quite a selection available, especially out of Broome and Kununurra. You can
pick from half day, full day and several day tours, or do the whole Kimberley as an
organised trip. There are bus tours and 4WD tours, cruises and flights, canoe trips and
hikes, Aboriginal culture and bush tucker tours, and some tours combine several of
the above.
Listings and contact details for all tour operators are in the destination chapters.
If you want help choosing or booking tours contact the Kimberley Tourist Information
Centres. The chapter called More Information lists contact details for all of them.
They have the most up to date information on what tours are available and will be
happy to help you find just the right one.
Tip: if you contact them during the off season, that is before May and after
September, they will have more time for you.
SELF DRIVING
The best way to see the Kimberley is to have your own wheels, period.
Car Hire
Many people will hire a car or campervan for the whole trip. Car hire and fuel are the
biggest cost factors of a Kimberley trip (after international flights for overseas
travellers). Thats why car hire is covered in more detail in the chapter
Facilities/Costs.
40
Part II: General Travel Information Getting Around/Driving
2WD or 4WD?
If you plan to explore the Gibb River Road you need a 4WD. If you plan to drive into
the Bungles you need a 4WD. You also need a 4WD to drive to Cape Leveque north
of Broome.
If you plan to skip the Gibb and to fly into the Bungles, to Cape Leveque and over the
Wolfe Creek crater, if you are not interested in exploring any little used bush tracks to
less famous waterfalls or great fishing or camping spots, then you don't need a 4WD.
The remaining (few) tourist attractions are usually accessible by 2WD, even if some
of the roads are unsealed. (E.g. the road to Tunnel Creek and Windjana Gorge.)
During the dry season some people even take 2WDs across the Gibb River Road.
(Mad and risky, but not impossible.)
However, if you are hiring a vehicle you can't access any of those places by 2WD.
Hire companies do not allow 2WD vehicles to be taken off road. (Also always read
the fine print of any 4WD hire agreement regarding roads that may be excluded.)
If you are travelling around Australia in a 2WD you have the option to hire a 4WD for
just a day or two, for example to drive to Cape Leveque or into the Bungles or to
explore the Kununurra area or El Questro or whatever takes your fancy.
Caravans and Camper Trailers

You can't take dual axle or standard caravans and trailers into the Bungles, period. It's
not allowed so don't try. Only single axle, dedicated off road/heavy duty vans and
trailers are allowed.
You shouldn't take standard caravans along the Gibb River Road. Very sturdy,
dedicated off-road vans can be ok, provided you don't mind them getting knocked
around a bit. Depending on the make of van and on the road conditions at the time, it
may suffer though. The emphasis is on sturdy.
Off-road camper trailers are fine, provided they are sturdy, (designed for a tough life,
not just off-road by name, as some are) and that you drive slowly and carefully.
If you are towing you can store your caravan or trailer in Broome, Derby or
Kununurra (for a Gibb River Road trip), in Warmun or at the start of the Spring Creek
Track (to visit the Bungles) and at Drysdale Station on the Kalumburu Road or at the
King Edward River Camp (to visit the Mitchell Plateau). See the relevant chapters and
the campground listings in the town accommodation sections for more details.
How Much Experience Do You Need?

If you plan to skip the Gibb and to fly into the Bungles, solely because you think you
are not up to the four wheel driving, think again! Please.
Provided the roads are dry and creeks are low and during the main tourist season
they are you don't need any experience and you won't be doing any four wheel
driving. Not on the Gibb River Road and not in the Bungles. All you do need is the
high clearance and tough tyres and suspension of a four wheel drive vehicle because
of the rocks and holes on the roads, the corrugations and the bumpy creek crossings.
The Kimberley is touted as a remote wilderness and real challenge, but the place isn't
exactly deserted. During the tourist season it's actually very busy. You can't get away
from people here! As long as you stick to the tracks you will never be alone.
41
Don't miss out on a wonderful trip because someone told you nonsense about
how dangerous it is!
People who give that kind of advice have either never been here, or they were here
fifteen years ago (it was a bit wilder then), or they stand to earn money if you book a
tour or scenic flight instead.
Driving in the Kimberley is not hard (a lot more on that below). The car does the
work. You just turn the steering wheel in the right direction and accelerate and brake
as required. There may be some side tracks that you decide to skip, but do not skip all
of the Kimberley by limiting yourself to sealed roads. (You will find all necessary
details about the individual roads and tracks in the destination chapters.)
Having said all that, the wet season is a different story. But the issue of river and
creek crossings is addressed below as well.
Crossovers, Softroaders and All Wheel Drives

These days there are so many different AWDs, "softroaders" and other "toy" 4WDs
out there, it makes your head spin.
Which of them are suitable to "tour the Kimberley"? This question comes up in some
form or other quite regularly. There is no hard and fast answer. It all depends what
exactly you want to do, on the time of the year, and on the driver.
Someone who has grown up in country Australia and started driving old paddock
bombs around the bush at age 16 will be able to go nearly anywhere in a 2WD.
But he'll probably also know how to fix things if something goes wrong!
You can "travel the Kimberley" in any vehicle. But the kind of vehicle determines
what you can see and do, where the limits are.
Because the conditions of our roads change so much from year to year and over a
season, it is impossibe to say exactly which models will go how far.
If you have a high clearance 4WD like a Landcruiser or a Patrol (hire 4WDs and
4WD campervans usually are high clearance), then you can access all the places I
write about during the dry season, and it doesn't matter if you ever sat in a 4WD
before or not.
There are also many smaller 4WDs that are not as expensive to run but have good
clearance and low range gears and are well up to the challenge. Hiluxes, Rodeos,
Pathfinders are examples and there are many more.
It gets trickier when you get to the fashionable All Wheel Drives and crossover
models.
If you have such a low vehicle, then you have to wait a bit longer into the season for
the rivers to drop further. You also have to pay a lot more attention to the road.
The lower the car, the more careful you have to be, especially at all the creek
crossings. The less clearance you have, the more experience you need.
You need to be able to judge if the underside of your car will clear an obstacle. When
necessary, you need to be able to put your wheels exactly where you want them, i.e.
on the high parts of the road, not into the ruts and holes.
You also need to understand that your tyres and suspension are weaker and more
vulnerable as those on the "real" 4WDs. Your car was not designed for this terrain.
It's amazing how far you can take those cars, IF you know what you're doing, and IF
you are willing to drive slowly and carefully enough.
But AWDs and crossovers are certainly not the ideal car for this terrain, and many of
them you probably would not want to take into the Bungles or up onto the Mitchell
Plateau, no matter what the time of the year.
42
My road classification system

The quality of our roads depends on two main factors: when it was last graded and
your personal perception. To call roads "good" or "bad" can be misleading. It all
depends on your views, your background and experience, and on the timing.
I remember one particular trip that we made in several cars. Two local cars, one car load
of visitors. During a break I commented to my local friend what an excellent job the
shire had done on that road, how good it was now and how well it had held up over the
wet season.
The visitor from down south heard that comment and exclaimed, "Are you kidding?
This is the worst road we've ever been on! It's shocking!"
Yep, perceptions vary.
I also remember two reader letters I once received, in the same week. One man
criticized my description of the Cape Leveque Road as rough as totally misleading and
said it ought to be listed as excellent. The other letter mentioned that it was the worst
road the people had ever been on. (And those guys had been around and across Australia
a few times...)
It turned out the shire had graded the road before the other fellow got to it...
Yep, road conditions also vary.
So, to make sure we understand each other, here is my personal classification system:
Excellent
When I call a road excellent it means that although it is unsealed it is suitable for high
speed cruising (up to and above 100 kph). The surface is smooth, there are no pot
holes or washouts or sandy bog holes etc. Creek crossings are often reinforced with
concrete. Caravans and trailers are fine. Examples are the Duncan Road and the
southern half of the Tanami Road (once they've been fixed up after the wet and before
they've become totally knackered out again).
However, you may encounter places where you have to slow down, like creek
crossings, or after rain you may come across damaged parts, so be vigilant. Also keep
in mind that a lot of cattle country is unfenced and that wildlife is plentiful. I never
drive that fast on the dirt, even though many of our roads would allow it.
Good
Roads with a more uneven surface, slightly rocky or corrugated, allowing you to drive
at 50 to 80 kph. Caravans and or trailers may or may not be fine. It depends how
sturdy they are, the distance, and how fast you drive. It's not the most comfortable
ride, but other than that there are no problems whatsoever, you just have to slow down
a bit. 2WD vehicles will also get through.
Most of the Gibb River Road itself is an excellent to good road, though it can vary
over the length of it and over the year. (The western half is usually in better shape
than the eastern parts.)
The side roads off the Gibb River Road, which take you to the attractions, are not
always so good, plus there are of course the river and creek crossings, hence the
recommendation of a 4WD for the Gibb River Road.
43
Rough
A rough road in my books is one where I can't use fourth gear. If I am stuck with
using first and second only then it's very rough. But this is still not difficult! You just
need to make sure that you allow enough time for the trip. Anybody can drive these
roads and any off road camper trailer is fine. The real off road vans should be ok in
most cases, too.
But this is where flimsy standard trailers and caravans are definitely not
recommended. They can not withstand the knocks and vibrations coming from the
corrugations and rocks and may very well just disintegrate on you. Vans may have
trouble clearing steep creek banks. AWDs may come up against their limits,
2WD vehicles are also unsuitable. Usually you need more clearance.
Some side roads of the Gibb River Road are rough, the track into Purnululu is another
example. The Gibb itself can also get rough in parts when it's due for grading or if it's
been damaged after unseasonal rains.
Experience required
This means you may need the low range gears or the actual 4WD of your car, or that
you have to cross water deeper than 500 mm (for which you should engage low range
4WD).
You don't really need to have much experience, but you do need to know how to
engage the low range gears and the four wheel drive and how much water your car
can handle. As long as you make sure the 4WD hire man shows and explains all that
you will be fine. Those tracks require confidence and common sense more than actual
skill or experience. Just take it easy.
An example may be parts of the road to the Mitchell Plateau, especially early in the
season, though most of it is just rough to very rough. Another example is the road into
Purnululu in the first few weeks of the season (mainly because of the many creek
crossings) or even the Gibb River Road when it first opens. As soon as they dry out
and the rivers and creeks drop those two are just rough or even good.
Challenging
Real 4WD tracks that may involve rock hopping, deep soft sand, boggy mud... If you
never sat in a 4WD before then only attempt this in a convoy with more experienced
drivers.
None of the roads to the usual Kimberley destinations are challenging.
Summary
Most roads and tracks combine several of the above or fall somewhere in between.
Generally the worst case scenario is that you have to drive a lot slower than you
would like to.
The main point to take away is this: You can do this!
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DRIVING IN THE KIMBERLEY

If you go on a self driving holiday in the Kimberley (I hope you will, that's the single
best way to see the place) then you will spend a lot of your time driving. Hence this is
a fairly long and in depth chapter. These issues are important to every stage of your
trip.
SEALED ROADS
General Advice
Did I just write that as plural? Sealed roads? I'm afraid we have only one.
Ok, that's not entirely accurate. Only one sealed road traverses the Kimberley from
east to west. However, Broome and Derby on the west coast are also connected by a
sealed road and so are Wyndham and Kununurra in the East Kimberley.
Those roads are excellent, there are plenty of services and roadhouses along the way,
there is nothing to worry about. The distances are big, though not quite as big as in
other parts of Australia. Still, fatigue can become a problem on long stretches.
Have frequent breaks, swap drivers, don't just push on.
Also make sure your car is in good nick (this includes your spare tyre!). Parts and
repairs are expensive here. The further from the few towns you are, the more
expensive everything is. Not to mention that you may have to wait for parts.
(Especially if your car is some exotic breed, i.e. not a Toyota. Yep, up here anything
besides Toyota qualifies as exotic.)
In some areas of the Kimberley you still find one lane bridges. Signs will let you
know when you approach one. There are no rules regarding who has the right of way.
Be courteous. Slow down, watch for oncoming traffic and if needed stop and wait.
Animals
Driving at dusk and dawn is particularly risky. All of the Kimberley is cattle country
and we are blessed with a staggering amount of wildlife. Cattle wander out on the
road and so do kangaroos. And big lizards. And wallabies. Even crocodiles. Then we
have donkeys, camels, wild horses, pigs, buffaloes... You name it, on our roads you
can hit it.
Avoid driving at dusk or dawn. It's better to just stop for breakfast or dinner.
If you see kangaroos, wallabies, cows... anything, slow down! Even if they don't seem
to head in your direction, they have a terrible habit of turning around in the last
second to dive straight under your wheels. And if you see one or two there is likely to
be a third and more.
I guess I should also mention the locusts (a kind of grasshopper). We get big swarms
of them at the beginning of the dry season. They clog up your radiator and that can
overheat your engine. If you encounter locust swarms keep a close eye on the engine
temperature. Stop every now and then to scrape the locust glue off your radiator grill.
45
Road Trains
Road trains inhabit the Kimberley and roam even the remotest regions! A road train is
a huge truck with three or more trailers. It may be over 50 metres long and can weigh
up to nearly 200 tonnes! 200 tonnes moving at considerable speed aren't going to stop
in a hurry. A road train can't even slow down or change direction in a hurry, so don't
expect them to or you'll end up in trouble and guess who'll win?
The drivers of the big trucks are the most courteous, considerate and responsible of all
drivers in Australia. The bigger the rig, the more courteous, considerate and
responsible the driver. They have a hard and often lonely job and carry a big
responsibility, so don't make their life more difficult than it needs to be:
Never ever cut in front of a big truck. Not at traffic lights, roundabouts, turn
offs, not on the highway, nowhere. They need a lot of room to slow down and
stop and they need all the space available if they need to turn.
The sign saying, "Do not overtake turning vehicle", means just that. Dont!
If a driver indicates he wants to turn left he will most likely move right first.
He needs the extra space to turn. And there are many blind spots around a
truck that size!
Always give them plenty of space. On the highway stick to the left of your
lane, because they will take up at least the full width of theirs. If you need to
stop somewhere for any reason move away from the road if possible.
If a road train is about to overtake you don't slow down until the road train
has fully moved over to the other lane!
If you overtake a road train make sure you have a LOT of room ahead.
Don't underestimate the time it takes to pass one of those beasts.
The Wet Season, Water Crossings

If you are driving through the Kimberley in the wet season the roads might be
flooded. The wettest months with the biggest chances of floods are January to March.
That does not mean you won't see water on the road in December or April! Until it
actually rains nobody can predict if, when and where you may find water on the road.
Every wet season is dramatically different and 50 km can make a huge difference to
the amount of rain that falls.
If you know that it rained a lot recently, drive accordingly.
Keep this story in mind, it appeared in our local newspaper:
A reader described driving back from Katherine to Kununurra and noticing a small sign
at the side of the road, just before a bend:
"Slow Down, Traffic Hazard Ahead!" Good thing he did slow down, he said. Just
around the bend he skidded to a halt and his jaw dropped. There was the Victoria River,
eight meters above the bridge and a kilometre wide!
Yup, a bit of a hazard there.
(And he would have known about it if hed checked the road reports like he should
have.)
46
A floodway usually has markers at the side of the road indicating the depth. Look for
them in the dry season and try to imagine the country under water. Hard to imagine,
isn't it?
If you're not sure how deep it is, get out of your car and check. Still not sure if your
car will make it? Don't go!
Small creeks rise and fall very quickly, in an hour or two you might be able to
continue your journey without risking to lose your car.
But also be prepared to find roads closed and to wait for a few days. Yes, even the
main highway gets cut off at times. It's a common thing to happen during the wet
season. Find out what the situation is before leaving for a long drive.
How much water can you drive through?
A few rules of thumb:
If the water flows too strongly for you to walk across then it is not safe to
drive across. Strong flow is more of a hazard than depth.
A water depth of no more than 50cm is recommended for 4WD vehicles.
With the right vehicle you can cross water a lot deeper than that, but you should know
your car and you should know what you are doing. The above rules of thumb are a
guideline for inexperienced drivers.
UNSEALED ROADS
How to not get stuck, not get lost, not get bogged and generally have a blast.
Lets talk about the biggest concern of many overseas travellers, the 4WDing in such a
remote and rugged area.
I already touched on this in a previous chapter: many of our unsealed roads are well
maintained gravel roads. Often a 4WD is not strictly necessary, though usually it is
recommended. The 4WD transmission comes in handy at times, but those moments
are rare. What you do need is the high clearance, the big tyres and the overall sturdy
build. 4WD vehicles can better withstand the knocks and the rattling of the
corrugations.
Common sense comes in handy, but for none of the trips described in the guide do
you need previous experience or special skills. (It will be exciting and look difficult in
your photos, but it isn't.)
My general recommendation is this: if at all possible at your budget, get a 4WD. In
this part of the world it's worth it. But don't worry about your skill or experience level.
The car will do the work. Just make sure someone shows you how to engage the low
range gears and the actual 4WD.
47
I'm sure you want to avoid a scenario like that of the couple from the Netherlands who
got bogged in Litchfield National Park (not exactly a deserted part of Australia). They
activated an emergency beacon (for life threatening situations only!) which of course
caused a huge rescue operation. The rescuers arrived, engaged the four wheel drive and
drove the car out of the bog.
If you have 4WD you should use it. Engaging the 4WD is not a bad idea on dirt roads,
even if not strictly necessary. It increases stability and traction and with that it
increases your safety. Don't underestimate the difference it makes!
The reason so many people get into trouble on our roads is not the difficult four wheel
driving (of which there is none), it's the same as on sealed roads: speeding!
You do not have the same traction on gravel that you have on bitumen, and if you
drive too fast and then run into an obstacle (an unexpected corner or wash out, push
bike drivers who don't leave a tell tale dust cloud so you only see them at the last
moment), if you need to brake hard or swerve suddenly, you have a MUCH better
chance of staying in control if your 4WD is engaged.
Driving too fast and then coming up against something unexpected is what causes the
far too frequent accidents and rollovers on the Gibb. So engage the 4WD and slow
down.
4WD is also gentler on the roads and the environment. The power is distributed more
evenly and the wheels are less likely to churn up the road surface.
If you are early in the season, find out what depth of water the car can handle, as this
can vary. (The height of the air intake, the weight of the vehicle, whether it has a
snorkel or not and other things all play a role).
People do not get into trouble on our tracks for lack of 4WDing skills. The
reason for nearly all accidents and most technical trouble is speeding.
Go slow and you will be fine. Anywhere. More about this later.
Caveats
Unsealed roads are vulnerable. Rain can cause wash outs, creeks can flood the road
and bog holes can remain long after. A lot of traffic can lead to bad corrugations,
especially towards the end of the season. The rattling is hard on your bones and hard
on your car.
Conditions can change. In this part of the world they change often because of the big
wet seasons we get. Especially at the start of the dry season, just after a road has
opened and before it has been fully graded and fixed, the conditions may be much
worse than given in the guide. Also, the rivers may still be very deep (up to 900 mm)!
If you are very early in the season you need to get information locally at the time.
Nobody can predict today what you will find after the next wet season.
Useful Contacts
You can get the necessary updates by contacting the Main Roads department, the
shires, the local police station or the local visitor centre. You can also ask at remote
roadhouses and sometimes you may have to ring the homestead of the cattle station
that owns the country you are crossing. If necessary, such contact details are provided
in the destination chapters.
(Also see the Appendix for more Useful Contacts.)
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Remember, the water damage is only a concern during and just after the wet. As
soon as the roads are dry enough they get fixed and graded and then they are in mint
condition. Well, until they deteriorate with use over the season (that means
corrugations). If it gets real bad and enough people complain, and if there is money to
spare, then a road gets graded again during the season.
So there is always a lot of variation regarding the possible speed and your comfort
level. Also keep those variations in mind when towing caravans or trailers. They may
be fine some times and disintegrate at others. If unsure about any roads or tracks,
always get current information about it before you head down that way.
Again: the contact details you need to do so are in the destination chapters and in the
Appendix Useful Contacts.
Overall the roads are improving every year and more and more roads are even being
sealed. Most Kimberley guides make the Kimberley sound a lot rougher than it is.
If you want to go truly off the beaten track be sure to find out about the present
state of the roads first. (The tracks where this is essential have such a comment in the
guide. There aren't many and very few tourists will ever venture that far.)
If getting off the beaten track, then of course all the usual common sense rules apply.
To start with make sure you have proper directions and a very detailed and current
map of the area. Let someone know where you are going and when you intend to be
back. Consider taking a sat phone and/or EPIRB. If possible, don't go it alone. The
best way to avoid trouble is to find some other vehicle to accompany you.
Speed
Driving in the Kimberley gives distances a different meaning. When planning the
outline of your trip it's best to assume an average travel speed of no more than 60kph
on the main unsealed roads. On a good stretch of road you will most likely go faster,
but 60 kph takes the rough parts into account. On a bad road it will be a lot less than
that. Planning for no more than 60 kph on the good roads gives you plenty of
breathing space for photo stops etc. If you know the road is in bad condition, allow
more time.
Budget three hours for the track into the Bungles, and three hours or even more for the
track up to the Mitchell Plateau. Hopefully you won't need it, but it's better to have a
buffer than not and then find the track in an awful state.
If you are not used to driving on unsealed roads and tracks go slow! It is true that
corrugations aren't felt as badly if you go fast enough. But keep in mind how little
contact your wheels have with the road if you just fly over the top of the corrugations.
You will have precious little control over your car and you might just need it.
Think about your springs and shock absorbers, too. Spares are hard to come by in the
middle of nowhere.
If you can't SAFELY drive at 85 kph over bad corrugations (best speed to soften the
corrugations, but rarely if ever safe), then you need to slow down a LOT to prevent
your car/trailer from shaking apart.
Another thing to keep in mind is that a big 4WD has a much higher centre of gravity.
If you have a loaded roof rack on top of it you want to please slow down around
corners! If you do have a roof rack then it makes sense to NOT carry heavy items like
full jerry cans up there. Keep the centre of gravity as low as possible. It is safer and
the car will handle much better.
49
Another hazard made worse by speed is the danger coming from sharp edged rocks on
the road. The Gibb River Road in particular is famous for chewing tyres. The faster
you drive, the bigger the risk to have one of your tyres cut open.
Off Road Tyre Pressures

The numbers below are not the result of my experience.
The pressures are recommended by Adam Plate. Adam and Lynnie Plate own the
famous Pink Roadhouse on the Oodnadatta Track in South Australia. After thirty
years of fixing tyres on anything from pushbikes to road trains, I think you can safely
say Adam knows what he is talking about.
How to use this information

I am not suggesting that you must run your tyres at exactly those pressures. There are
differences between tyre types, sizes, load ratings Most people wont know what
tyres exactly their hire vehicle has anyway. So dont worry about hitting some single
ideal pressure. The road surfaces vary, too. Use the numbers below as a guideline.
What I mostly want you to understand is that the ideal tyre pressure on dirt roads is
lower than on bitumen, lower than most people think and lower than a lot of people
who should know better suggest. (There is also the added benefit that it makes the ride
a lot smoother.)
Try puncturing a balloon at low pressure and you understand why.
So, to reduce the risk of tyre damage on the Gibb River Road: reduce the tyre
pressure, reduce your load if possible and most importantly, reduce your speed!
People may argue about pressures, but everybody agrees high speed increases the risk
of tyre damage.
60 kph is a reasonable speed for most of the Gibb River Road. (The eastern half of the
road is rougher than the west.) You can go faster, but you will increase the risk of tyre
failure, especially on the rocky sections. Take it easy and you will get away with
higher pressures.
Does that mean at lower pressures you can go faster? Unfortunately not. Low tyre
pressure combined with high speed is a recipe for a rollover. An unexpected dip, a
hole in the road, a sudden swerve or corner Keep an eye on the road and adjust the
speed to the conditions.
No matter which way you look at it, you cant go wrong by going slow. Take your
time and you and your tyres will be just fine.
Regarding the load: put nothing on the roof (ok, as little and as light as possible) and
put the heavy gear in the middle of the car to take pressure off the back wheels.
It does make sense to have 4WD engaged on dirt roads, whether you need it or not.
Its a safety issue. It increases the stability and improves the handling of your vehicle.
It also protects the roads and tracks.
(Numbers below from www.biziworks.com.au/pink)
50
Big, loaded 4WDs

15 inch tubeless tyres: front 20 psi back 26 psi (without load: front/back 24 psi)
16-17 inch tubeless: front 24 psi back 30 psi
4WD campers (no split rims)
15 inch tubed & tubeless: front 20 psi back 26 psi
16 inch tubed & tubeless: front 26 psi back 36 psi
Tubed split rims (the most unreliable tyre type but common on many hire vehicles!)
Front 30 psi back 36 psi
(Even if you have no clue about your tyre make or size, on the Gibb you should not
have more than that in any 4WD tyres.)
All too confusing and difficult?

Adam also has a simple rule of thumb: if you leave the bitumen, drop the
recommended pressure by 10 psi. So if the recommendation for your hired 4WD
campervan is 45 psi, drop it to 35 when you get to the Gibb River Road. (Beware the
many hire companies OVERinflate tyres ABOVE the recommended pressure to
decrease the wear on bitumen.)
As long as you drive at low speeds, and especially for bad conditions, if in doubt, go
lower.
If you are not sure about your load and about how much difference there should be
between the front and back wheels, just look at them. The bulge on the front and back
wheels should be equal.
Don't forget that trailers have tyres, too. Reduce the pressure in those as well!
If you are travelling at high speeds, check the temperature of your tyres. If they get
too hot they need more air.
Do not forget to reinflate the tyres when you get back on the bitumen. They get
awfully hot when underinflated! If for some reason you have to travel on bitumen
with underinflated tyres, go slow.
As you see, there is no hazard that cant be eliminated by taking it nice and slow.
Cattle and Cattle Stations

Everything I said about animals in the previous section for sealed roads applies even
more so on unsealed roads. All of the Kimberley is cattle country and the land along
unsealed roads is often unfenced. Both cattle and wildlife love to wander out on the
roads, especially at dusk and dawn. Those are the most dangerous times for driving,
it's best to have a break instead.
Not all the roads marked on your map are public roads. Some are private. The fact
that many Kimberley roads lead through cattle stations means that once you turn off
any main road/track you are on private land and are actually trespassing. Find out
beforehand if you are allowed to drive to a certain waterfall located on a sidetrack.
All it usually takes is a phone call to the station owner/manager to get permission.
They like to know who is on their land, just like you'd like to know who is poking
around your backyard. (Nearly everything covered in this guide is publicly accessible.
If not then I do tell you who you need to ask first and give contact details.)
51
One more thing about driving through stations: you will come across many gates.
They are there for a reason!
Leave all gates as you found them.
If they are open, leave them open. They may be open to allow the stock access to
water. And if you found them closed make sure you close them again!
Creek Crossings
Everything I said above for water crossings applies to unsealed roads as well, with the
added hazard of possible submerged logs, rocks or holes that you cant see. If you are
not sure what to expect, get out of the car and check first. (Unless it is crocodile
habitat! Dont worry, the destination chapters tell you where you need to be aware of
crocodiles.)
Having said that, this is only an issue very early in the season and or on the little
known tracks. Once the roads are open and the tourists are out in force you can
assume that all crossings are in reasonable condition.
Talk to travellers going the opposite direction and talk to the people in the roadhouses
and at the stations. They will let you know if there is anything unexpected that you
need to be aware of.
Road Closures
Roads get closed when they are wet. You are not a hero if you ignore the closed sign
to prove your superior driving skills.
WE KNOW YOU CAN STILL GET THROUGH, BUT YOU RUIN THE ROAD!
Roads also get closed because of safety concerns. If there is more rain while you are
out there you may get stuck for good and nobody can get to you. And then?
You also pay a very steep fine if you get caught and you can lose your licence.
Stay off our roads when they are wet! If a road is open for 4WD only, then you do
indeed need a 4WD vehicle to get through.
Bogged
This guide is for the average adventurous traveller, not the extreme 4WDing
enthusiast.
If you stick to the usual attractions in this guide you wont need this information.
But I will give you some general tips, just in case you become a bit too confident and
venture somewhere you shouldnt go.
The Kimberley is generally very rocky. There aren't many places where you can get
bogged unless you visit in the wet season or you drive out on beaches or tidal mud
flats near the coast.
The most likely cause to get bogged is therefore deep, soft sand. The most likely
reason is that you have too much air in your tyres. Drop your tyres and often you can
52
just drive out. (You should in fact drop them BEFORE attempting to drive in soft
sand.)
Yes, it works. Try 25 psi to start with, go lower if you need to. You have to reinflate
the tyres when you get back on firm ground, or go very, VERY slow. (A small, cheap
compressor for such situations is handy. You can also hire a compressor together with
your camping equipment.)
If that doesn't work, or if you are stuck in mud, don't panic. Get out, have a drink,
look at the situation and your options. Whatever you do, stay with your vehicle, unless
you know for sure that help is VERY close by and you know for sure how to get
there. With close by I mean a few hundred metres!
Often it's not as bad as it looks. Plus, generally all you have to do is wait for the next
vehicle. Here are a few tips that might get you out of trouble without the help from
others:
Don't spin the wheels and get yourself deeper into it! Use a shovel to dig away sand or
mud in front or behind the wheels (and under the diff if necessary). Collect material to
put in the wheel ruts to provide some grip (stones, timber, branches, grass). Use the
jack on a base plate (or it will just sink) to lift the car and put some materials under
the wheels. Use plenty!
You might have to do this several times until you are back on firm ground. And don't
despair if it doesn't work straight away. Keep trying.
While working, make sure you drink enough, wear a hat and have breaks. Consider
waiting for the cooler time of the day. You're not helping anyone if you get heat
struck on top of getting bogged!
Again: nowhere on the usual tracks or roads can you get into that kind of trouble
during the tourist season, even if you try!!
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MAPS
The Kimberley map that I recommend is produced by HEMA. It is THE best map of
the Kimberley for tourists, period.
This is not just a personal preference of mine. The HEMA Kimberley map is the map
that is laminated and glued to the desk of every tourist information centre in the
Kimberley. It is the map that best helps the people behind the desk to answer your
questions.
The HEMA map is more than just a road map:
It highlights all the attractions, reserves, national parks etc. and gives you a
short description of what there is to see and do.
It shows exactly what services are available at the remote roadhouses, stores
and wilderness camps.
It lists GPS coordinates for every roadhouse, landmark, Aboriginal

community, for anything that has a name.
It lists phone numbers for wilderness camps, national park offices, shire
offices, main roads offices and other government departments, anything you
might need on your trip.
On the back you have a larger scale map of just the Gibb River Road, again
with explanations of all the sights along the way.
And on top of all that you get a lot of beautiful pictures of the Kimberley and a
short travel guide for the region.
It's a must have map.

Unless, of course, you have the HEMA Kimberley Atlas & Guide!
(If you are not in Australia you can get those maps on Amazon.)
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NATIONAL PARKS
The opening times of national parks in the Kimberley vary. Most parks are open by
the end of April and remain open until December. Our weather is, however,
unpredictable and early or late wet season rains can warrant park or access road
closures at other times.
Visitor fees apply to many national parks across Western Australia. You can pay for
access to parks individually. You can also purchase a parks pass that covers all of
them.
Several parks in the Kimberley that were formerly free now attract entry fees. As of
February 2014 those parks are:
King Leopold Range Conservation Park

Mitchell River National Park
Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungle)
Tunnel Creek National Park
Windjana Gorge National Park
Mirima National Park (Hidden Valley)
Note: the Geikie Gorge National Park boat trip is NOT covered by a pass. It costs
extra.
Camping fees are not covered by the passes, you pay extra for camping.
(As of February 2014 camping fees are $12/$2.20 for adults/children in most parks.)
Day passes for individual parks can be purchased at park entry points. The park
entrances are not always staffed, so you may need to have the correct change to pay
your entry fee.
Parks passes that cover all parks are more convenient and also a lot more economical
to buy.
Where to buy passes

All passes can be bought at
DPaW offices (Department of Parks and Wildlife)

The online shop on the DPaW website:www.dpaw.wa.gov.au
Over the phone: (08) 9219 8000
From Kimberley Tourist Information Centres
From select tourist outlet and retail stores. (Ring the above number to find the
nearest park pass outlet or download this pdf.)
55
Entry Pass Pricing

(as of Feb 2014)
Day Pass
You can visit more than one park with this day pass (if you can get from one to the
other quickly enough).
$12per vehicle (up to 8 legally seated people)
$6 per motorcycle and concession card holders
Holiday Pass
Allows unlimited entry for four weeks. This is the best pass for most Kimberley
visitors.
$44 per vehicle (up to 8 people)
Annual Pass
Unlimited entry to all WA parks for 12 months.
$88 per vehicle
FACILITIES/COSTS
Banks
You are not leaving the 21st century behind when visiting the Kimberley.
There is the usual range of major banks in all Kimberley towns. Your credit card will
be accepted pretty much everywhere, you can find ATMs in all towns and just about
everybody who has a cash register offers EFTPOS (Electronic Funds Transfer/Point
Of Sale).
There are some exceptions (some remoter roadhouses, small businesses), so it is
advisable to always carry some cash.
On the Gibb River Road:
There are obviously no banks, but several of the stations and roadhouses offer
EFTPOS facilities and accept major credit cards. Having said that, some of the
stations out here that do welcome tourists can only take cash. You will also need cash
to pay your camping fees at some of the campgrounds.
56
Costs
I wont beat around the bush: it wont be a cheap holiday. Western Australia is the
most expensive state in Australia and the Kimberley is the most expensive region in
Western Australia. The reason is obvious: we are far away from everywhere.
Everything has a high transport cost associated with it.
Transport:
The prices for hire vehicles vary too much to list everything here. Factors are size of
the vehicle, 2WD or 4WD, one way hire or return, camping gear included or not, how
long the trip is Contact the hire companies for quotes. Avis, Britz, Hertz, Budget
etc. all have depots here. Do an internet search to get an idea for prices.
Apollo Campervans www.apollocamper.com
Avis Broome www.avis.com.au
Britz / Maui Australia www.britz.com or www.maui-rentals.com
Budget Rent a Car www.budget.com.au
Hertz www.hertz.com.au
Kea Campers Australia www.keacampers.com
Thrifty (NT & Kimberley) www.rentacar.com.au
Contact details for local Broome and Kununurra branches are included in the
respective chapters.
You can also hire camping equipment separately:
www.kimberleycampinghire.com.au, Broome, Cnr Frederick St/Cable Beach Rd, 9193 5282

www.kununurrakamperhire.com,Kununurra, Whimbrel Rd, 916801614 or 0417 948 060
When hiring a vehicle, check the small print for details on where the car is allowed to
go. Not all cars are allowed on all roads! Make sure you get the permission to take the
vehicle along the Gibb or into the Bungles, or up to the Mitchell Plateau. (And note
that different branches of the same hire company may give you different answers on
this! Local hire can be easier because the staff in local branches are familiar with your
needs, Perth staff may not be. It can be a headache...)
Your biggest cost after that will likely be fuel. The further you move away from the
main towns, the more expensive it gets. So dont do your budgeting on fuel prices that
you saw quoted for Western Australia. Kimberley town prices are a good 20 cents
above Perth prices.
The FuelWatch website will give you a good idea what to expect:
www.fuelwatch.wa.gov.au
Along the Gibb River Road you will spend a lot more, well over $2 a litre in places.
(Prices vary wildly. It depends how far you are from the nearest point of civilization.)
If you shop at Coles or Woolworth anywhere in Australia and spend more than 30
dollars you get a voucher that entitles you to 4 cents per litre off the pump price at
Coles Express Shell or Caltex Woolworth service stations, respectively, anywhere in
Australia. So keep those vouchers! (For overseas readers: the voucher is the bottom
part of your receipt.)
57
Coles Express service station locations in the Kimberley

Broome: Hamersly St. (near roundabout as you enter town coming from Broome Rd.)
Fitzroy Crossing: cnr Forrest Road/highway. You'll see it.
Halls Creek: on the highway. You'll see it.
Kununurra: Ivanhoe Rd.
There is no Coles Express in Derby or Wyndham.
The only Caltex Woolworth is in Broome at the Boulevard Shopping Centre.
Accommodation:
A hostel bed in a dorm room costs between $20 and $30 a night.
Cabins at campgrounds can be under $100 a night (for one or two people) but
can also be a heck of a lot more in the towns during peak season!
Twin or double rooms start from around $120 for budget rooms, from around
$200 for standard rooms in hotels/motels. It goes up quickly from there.
(Prices are considerably lower between November and March.)
Camping:
Unpowered camping costs from $10pp, powered caravan sites $25-$40/site.
Camping in national parks is $12 per person per night as of Feb 2014.
Bush camping is often free and possible in many places.
Im a die hard bush camper myself and therefore you can find a lot of information and
directions regarding free camping in the destination chapters.
However, if you plan to travel beyond the Kimberley, in Western Australia and the
Northern Territory, then you may want to also look at Jan Hollands books. I review
them here: www.kimberleyaustralia.com/camping-in-western-australia.html
Food:
Eating out: a main course for dinner will set you back between $20 and $40.
Prices for all your essentials at the supermarket will initially shock you, but
you get used to it quickly.
(Its not that bad, but prices are considerably higher than elsewhere in
Australia.)
Ideally you should buy (and be able to store) enough food to last you for the
length of the Gibb River Road. You can buy some basic supplies (bread, milk,
tins) on the road, with luck even some fresh food, but don't count on it. More
about that in the Gibb River Road chapter.
Drinking Water:
That is one thing that you do not need to worry about. We have lots of it. It's available
and free almost everywhere. You just bring enough containers. (The Bungles are the
only exception, no drinking water inside the park.) Details for the Gibb River Road,
Bungles etc. can be found in the respective chapters.
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Phone and Internet

Our area code is 08. For the rest of the guide I do not list the area code with phone
numbers. It is always 08.
And, as you will see, all Kimberley numbers start with 91. With the few people living
here we don't need more variety.
Will your mobile phone work? Im afraid most of the time it wont. Mobile phone
coverage is restricted to the towns and those are few and far between.
Roadhouses between the towns and along the Gibb River Road have public phones.
One notable exception to these restrictions is the Dampier Peninsula north of Broome.
It's all Aboriginal country and as such receives lots of funding. You can get mobile
phone and even wireless internet access in the communities.
(Which I at home just outside Kununurra can't. Just sayin'.)
Wireless internet is restricted to the more upmarket hotels/motels, including Home
Valley Station at the eastern end of the Gibb River Road, as well as at the Aboriginal
communities on the Dampier Peninsula. Normal internet is available at pretty much
all accommodations and at internet cafes in towns.
If you need to ensure reliable communication at all times, say for example because
a member of your group has a medical condition, your best bet is to hire a satellite
phone.
Note that public phones along the Gibb River Road, as in Silent Grove (Bell Gorge),
Windjana Gorge, as well as at Mornington Wilderness Camp operate with a
PhoneAway card, NOT with coins, credit cards or standard phone cards. Yes,
annoying.
Electricity
The voltage in Australia is 220 240 V, the same as in Europe. If you come from the
US you need a converter/adapter.
Our power plugs are different from the European and US plugs. We use flat, 3-pin
plugs and you definitely need an adapter for any electrical devices.
WHAT TO PACK
The Kimberley may be a bit remote, but it is a totally civilized part of the western
world. Anything you may forget can be bought here. Yes, with your credit card.
The really important things

Your passport and visa, your plane ticket, any prescription medicines if required and
enough memory cards for your camera. Murphy's Law dictates that the one you need
will be out of stock when you arrive and you will need more memory than you think.
If you depend on any electrical appliances that need charging don't forget the charger
and an adapter for our power points. (Though you should be able to hunt one of those
down in Broome or Kununurra.)
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Clothing
There is not much need or use for smart clothing. Even in Darwin you can dress very
casual, no matter where you go.
A word of warning: anything white will look grubby in no time. The fine red dust is
everywhere and gets into everything.
Take clothing that is comfortable and light weight, lots of shorts and T-shirts.
Natural fibres are preferable over synthetics.
Throw in a pair of long pants and a jumper or two for cold nights. (June August)
For April/May pack some very light long pants and something light with long
sleeves, to ward of mosquitoes.
Sandals or thongs for everyday use and some comfortable boots for hiking
(plus socks, obviously).
Most pubs or restaurants do not allow you to enter in thongs after 6 pm, so you
need a pair of proper sandals as well or you have to go out at night in your
hiking boots.
Bathers and a big towel, a sun hat and sunglasses.
It's easier to do some washing on the road (most places have coin operated
machines for campers) than to lug too much gear around. A weeks worth of
clothing should be enough.
You can bring sunscreen and insect repellent, or you can buy it here. If you can only
get teeny weeny bottles at home it's probably cheaper to buy a gallon here.
I hope I don't need to tell you to pack some knickers/undies and your toothbrush!
Camping
Most people hire vehicles that have camping equipment included. Alternatively you
can hire camping equipment separately, from Kimberley Camping Hire in Broome or
from Kununurra Kamper Hire:
www.kimberleycampinghire.com.au, Broome, Cnr Frederick St/Cable Beach Rd, 9193 5282
www.kununurrakamperhire.com,Kununurra, Whimbrel Rd, 916801614 or 0417 948 060
You need a big fridge or a big enough esky (cooler, ice box) with lots of ice and you
must carry enough drinking water (5L per person per day, more in hot weather). Both
ice and water disappear rapidly. Block ice is preferable over crushed ice for longer
trips but is not always available.
Below is a short check list for first timers. Use it as a starting point. Not everything is
essential, it depends how much comfort you need. Some additional handy items to
take are listed in the vehicle section.
Tent, pegs and ropes. (For the hotter time of the year just a mosquito dome is
preferable)
Extra tarp for shade (plus extra pegs/poles/ropes as required)
Ground sheet (extra protection for tent floor, I never worry about this)
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Swag or sleeping bag plus mattress or camp stretcher (foam or self-inflating

mattresses are better than air beds, which are a pain in the you know what to
blow up and always leak)
Cooker and gas cartridges/gas bottle (make sure it's not out of date) or other
portable cooker (fire bans are common)
Lighter, waterproof matches
Folding table and chairs
Cooking/eating/drinking utensils (remember to take a can opener and cork
screw)
Boxes or crates for your food stuffs
Sealable containers (tupperware) and bags (snap lock)
Cooking oil, salt, pepper, spices, dry herbs, sugar, tea, coffee, milk powder etc.
Good food stuffs include quick oats, muesli, fruit cake, dried fruit, jam,
honey, peanut butter, crisp bread, crackers, nuts, pasta, rice, lentils (cook fast),
potatoes and other root vegetables, long life packaged cheese, ham, bacon and
salami, cryovac meat, and anything that comes dried, instant, or in a tin.
Bucket/bowl, dishwashing liquid, sponge, towel, paper towels, rubbish bags
Some form of lighting/lantern

Torch and batteries
Water containers (I am talking 10-20L containers, not empty juice bottles)
Camping shower (certainly optional, I'd much rather have a swim!)
Folding spade and toilet paper
Swiss army knife or Leatherman or similar (always handy, especially if you
forgot the can opener and cork screw)
A general comment: when packing, consider the fine dust that gets into everything.
While it may be just a nuisance on some item it can kill others like expensive
electronic gadgets. Protect them.
For Your Vehicle

Which items of the below you need depends on what exactly you plan to do.
Spare tyres, optional tyre repair kit (everybody needs the spares!)
12 volt compressor or tyre pump (very handy, but not essential)
Snatch strap and tow rope (should be in your car anyway)
D shackles to attach snatch strap (know the recovery points on your vehicle)
Shovel
Leather gloves (very handy for many things, including collecting firewood)
A bottle or high lift jack and a base plate for it, e.g. a wooden plank (jack and
plate is a must, a high lift jack is much more useful if you plan to do more
adventurous stuff)
Jerry cans
A basic tool kit to suit your car
Zip ties (so, so handy for so many things)
Gaffer/duct tape (ditto)
Tie wire (ditto)
I assume you carry a first aid kit
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Depending on the type of vehicle and how many passengers, a roof rack may
very well become essential! If you get one consider getting a dust cover for it.
Other spares that people like to carry, especially those on longer adventure trips, are
wheel nuts, fuses, and a set of engine hoses and belts. (Um... I don't.)
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MORE INFORMATION
Every town in the Kimberley, no matter how small, has a Kimberley Tourist
Information Centre. Addresses and contact details for all of them are below. If you
have any questions (especially regarding tours and accommodation) that aren't
answered in this guide, ring them, fax them, email them, just ask them, they'll help.
In my experience they have all been great. Whenever I walked into one I was given a
stack of free maps and information materials and never did anyone try to sell me any
tour or accommodation or anything that I hadn't asked for.
Broome is a bit of an exception. The staff is still extremely courteous and helpful, but
no matter what I asked, I was invariably just presented with a brochure and price list
to choose from. Broome is just too busy and they really don't have the time. They
generally steer you in the direction of mainstream and pricier options and they'll make
bookings for you. But that's it. It ends up feeling very commercial.
(I suspect during peak season the other towns get a bit like that as well.)
Broome Visitor Centre

1 Hamersley Street (First round-about as you enter town)
Ph: 1800 883 777 or 9195 2200, (international +61 8 9195 2200)
Fax: 9192 2063
www.visitbroome.com.au
enquiries@broomevisitorcentre.com.au
Derby Visitor Centre

2 Clarendon Street
Ph: 9191 1426 (international +61 8 9191 1426) or 1800 621 426 (within Australia)
Fax: 9191 1609
www.derbytourism.com.au
info@derbytourism.com.au
Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau

Flynn Drive
PO Box 101
Ph: 9191 5355 (international +61 8 9191 5355)
Fax: 9191 5085
fxam@sdwk.wa.gov.au or fxinfo@sdwk.wa.gov.au
Halls Creek Visitor Centre

Cnr. Great Northern Hwy/Hall St.
Ph: 1800 877 423 or 9168 6262 (international +61 8 9168 6262, skype HallsCreekTourism)
Fax: 9168 6467
www.hallscreektourism.com.au
tourism@hcshire.wa.gov.au or visitors@hcshire.wa.gov.au
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Kununurra Visitor Centre

Coolibah Drive (East Kimberley Tourism House)
Ph: 9168 1177 (international +61 8 9168 1177) or 1800 586 868
Fax: 9168 2598
www.visitkununurra.com
info@visitkununurra.com
Wyndham Tourist Info

Great Northern Hwy (At Kimberley Motors)
Ph: 9161 1281 (international +61 8 9161 1281)
Fax: 9161 1435
mail@thelastfrontier.com.au
SOME NOT SO NICE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW

CROCODILES
The Kimberley is crocodile country, you probably know that already. I don't want you
to get eaten by a crocodile on your Kimberley holidays, so please don't do anything
stupid while you're here. (I'll tell you in a minute what that would be.)
Not all crocodiles are dangerous. Freshwater crocodiles are harmless unless
provoked. All the warnings below concern saltwater crocodiles.
Saltwater crocodiles are the largest reptiles in the world (in terms of weight). They
can grow to over 6 metres and their jaws can exert a pressure of several tons. They are
huge, territorial and aggressive and they are plentiful across the Kimberley.
The name saltwater crocodiles is misleading. Salties live just as happily in freshwater
many hundred kilometres inland. They have been a protected species since the 1970s.
Since then their numbers have been growing and growing. Salties are very territorial
creatures. Every grown male crocodile needs its own territory.
Can you see what I'm getting at? Put all the above facts together, add the growing
number of Kimberley tourists and residents and you can see how the potential for
conflict is increasing. So please observe the following rules.
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Be Crocodile Safe
First of all: always, always observe crocodile warning signs!

Don't assume it's safe to swim if there is no sign! Crocodiles attack out of
deep, still or muddy waters, where they can't be seen. Always stay well away
from those. Small creeks, waterfalls, rock pools etc. are usually fine, but if
you're not sure stay out of the water. Ask first!
The crocodiles dont own all the water up here. Most gorges and waterfalls are
crocodile free and safe for swimming. This guide warns you about any places that
arent. But if you venture away from the beaten track then it is very important to find
out first where swimming is safe and where it isn't.
What to do if you know or suspect that there are saltwater crocodiles:
Stay away from the water's edge. Never stand on logs or similar
overhanging the water. Saltwater crocodiles can jump to attack! Also, never
turn your back, always face the water.
If you see a crocodile sliding mark (a crocodile sliding into the water from a
river bank will leave a characteristic mark), stay well clear of that area.
Don't return to exactly the same place at the water every day, or on a regular
basis. Or one day a croc will be waiting there for you...
Don't feed crocodiles. Also, don't harass or provoke them, don't interfere with
them. Even the small ones, leave them alone!
Avoid places where native animals or cattle drink. That's exactly where a lazy
crocodile would be waiting for an opportunity to attack. (Saltwater crocodiles
are very conservative with their energy and therefore opportunists when it
comes to hunting. They stalk their prey, hide under water and wait. A
crocodile you can see is less dangerous than one you can't see.)
Saltwater crocodiles are most aggressive during the breeding season,
September to May. The warmer weather also makes the cold-blooded animals
even faster.
Fishing is very popular in the Kimberley and any great barramundi fishing spot is
guaranteed to be popular with saltwater crocodiles as well!
Don't clean fish near the water or discard fish scraps in the water.
Be careful when launching boats. Avoid going in the water if at all possible.
Don't dangle your arms or legs over the side of the boat.
BOX JELLYFISH AND IRUKANDJI

There are several kinds of box jellyfish. Only two of them are dangerous and both can
be found along the beaches of Broome.
The largest kind of box jellyfish at about 30 cm diametre is the multi-tentacled species
Chironex Fleckeri, usually just called Australian box jellyfish.
www.kimberleyaustralia.com/kimberley-boxjellyfish.html
65
Not so well known is another, less than thumbnail sized type, with only one tentacle at
each corner, called Irukandji. Unfortunately Irukandji stings are a common
occurrence on Cable Beach and near Broome in general.
Nobody has died in Broome but it was close for a few people. (Two fatal Irukandji
attacks have been recorded in other parts of northern Australia. In one case the victim
had a pre-existing heart condition.)
The rate of jellyfish stings in Broome is currently the highest for all of Australia.
A lot of work has been done recently to determine the factors these stings had in
common to give recommendations. It appears that water temperatures above 28.3C,
time after midday and windy days make stings more likely. Some sources say so do
incoming high tides, others say outgoing high tides. Maybe just stay out of the water
around high tides altogether.
The water temperature explains why stings occur only around the wet season even
though box jellyfish are present all year round. Stings have happened as late as May
and June. It takes a while for the water to cool down.
There are several beaches north of Broome that have never had any problems with
stingers, like Middle Lagoon and Cape Leveque. It may be due to their particular
location, the reefs or the currents in the oceans, who knows.
Irukandji Syndrome
The most notable result of an Irukandji sting is excruciating pain. Symptoms appear
five to 45 minutes after the sting and include lower back pain, muscle cramps,
sweating, nausea, vomiting, restlessness, anxiety and palpitations. In the most severe
cases people developed pulmonary oedema (water in the lungs), hypertension and
toxic heart failure.
The treatment of the stung area is similar to that used for Australian box jellyfish
stings: neutralise the remaining stinging cells with vinegar before removing the
tentacles. There is no antivenin for Irukandji syndrome. The symptoms may disappear
within 4 to 30 hours, though in some cases it can take up to a week.
Many victims need morphine to treat the pain. The average dose is 20mg, twice of
what is normally used on a 100 kg man! One patient required 300mg over an extended
time period! Now that is pain that I can't even begin to imagine. Interestingly, some
victims take a couple of Panadeine forte, go home and are just fine.
Because of the potential for life threatening complications it is a good idea to take
the patient to a hospital as quickly as possible. (The victim will probably be screaming
for morphine anyway...) Broome hospital is very experienced with Irukandji
syndrome and they know exactly what to do.
It is unlikely that a healthy person will die from an Irukandji sting, but most people
say they wished they would while going through the pain. One person said he would
rather be stung by Chironex fleckeri "because the pain goes away in 20 minutes or
you die". Another woman said, "I didn't think it was possible for anyone to endure
that level of pain without turning into a vegetable."
Stay out of the water during jellyfish season!
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ROSS RIVER VIRUS AND BARMAH FOREST VIRUS

This chapter is for wet season travellers. Ross River is not an issue during the dry
season.
Ross River Virus and Barmah Forest Virus are much the same thing. They are two
different nasty viruses, carried and transmitted by mosquitoes in Australia's tropical
north, including the Kimberley. When I say Ross River Virus I refer to both.
Ross River Virus is an arbovirus transmitted by female mosquitoes. The virus lives
mostly in kangaroos and wallabies. After a mosquito bites an infected wallaby it can
transmit the disease through a bite to other animals or humans.
The only way to get Ross River Fever is from mosquitoes, it is not transmitted from
human to human. Even though mosquitoes are active all year round, the virus appears
to be only active during the wet season, especially the second half of it.
Ross River Fever is not dangerous, but it is a horrible disease to go through and can
take a very long time to get over. (Many months and for some people years!)
Not everybody who gets infected develops symptoms. Some people will never know
they had it. The younger you are the less likely you are to get symptoms. Children
almost never do.
The symptoms can take between 3 and 21 days to appear: mild fever, headaches,
dizziness, tiredness, generally feeling like crap... I'm sure you know how a bad flu
feels. Ross River feels the same. On top of that you have swollen, inflamed and very
painful joints, most commonly the wrists, hands, ankles and knees. You may also get
a rash that looks like rubella. None of that is a problem and most of the symptoms
usually disappear within a few weeks. The joint pains can be more persistent.
The really nasty thing about Ross River is the debilitating fatigue that many people
experience. And sometimes that can linger for many months or years.
The biggest risk of picking up the virus is immediately after rain. The most common
transmitters are the little grass mosquitoes that are only active when the grass is wet.
Plus, lush green grass attracts kangaroos and wallabies that carry the virus.
The only way to prevent Ross River Fever is to avoid getting bitten by mosquitoes.
Use repellent and wear light coloured, loose fitting clothes with long sleeves and legs.
Use mosquito coils if you sit outside at night and sleep inside a mosquito dome or
under a mosquito net when camping.
I contracted Ross River in 2007 so I can tell you a bit about it. For those who want to
know more:
www.kimberleyaustralia.com/ross-river-virus.html
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Part III: The Guide

BROOME
roome's location is magnificent. Endless white beaches, fringed by the

turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, strikingly contrasted against the red
pindan cliffs... Then there is the enviable year round balmy climate, the laid
back atmosphere, the exotic architecture reminiscent of Broome's pearling history...
It's easy to see why the place is marketed so heavily. What's not so easy to see is that
the very same marketing has changed Broome. And according to most, not to the
better. In a way Broome has become a victim of its own success.
It's hard to argue with the fact that Broome has the best connections to the rest of
Australia. Flying into or out of Broome certainly is a good way to start or wrap up a
Kimberley visit. (Approaching the Kimberley from the east by driving from Darwin is
the alternative.)
The town is located on a narrow peninsula. On one side you have the mangrove
fringed red flats of Roebuck Bay (a world class birding location), on the other side the
world famous white sands of Cable Beach.
In the middle sits a town shaped by its colourful history as the world's former pearling
capital.
Broome is growing at an alarming rate, but it is still a small place. At last count about
14,000 people lived there. But that number swells during the tourist season to well
over 45,000!
Even though there is a lot of construction happening, the local industry can't keep up
with the demand that the heavy marketing has created. Book well in advance if you
want to visit Broome between May and August and expect to find a, well, rather
touristy place.
Getting There
Most Kimberley visitors fly to or from Broome, using Qantas, Skywest (Virgin Blue)
or Airnorth. Some drive from Darwin, Perth or Alice Springs. For more information
check the chapters Flying and Driving in Part II: General Travel Information.
220 km from Derby
396 km from Fitzroy Crossing
1040 km from Kununurra
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Part III: The Guide
The History of Broome and its Pearling Industry

Our ancients sowed their culture
Our ancients sowed their seed
So there is no pedigree
We're all one mongrel breed.
(From a song by Jimmy Chi)
Broome history is a collection of colourful and often violent tales. It's not easy to
imagine what it might have been like during Broome's pearling days.
But if you want to try, and I warmly recommend you do, Chinatown is the place to
start. More specifically Johnny Chi Lane, where 20 story boards on the walls of the
shops tell the whole story and book shops boast shelves of treasures for those who
want to know more. It doesn't take long for the souvenir shops, the sunburned tourists
and the time to disappear and make room for the lively, chaotic and lawless frontier
town of the early 1900s:
Chinese, Europeans, Japanese, Malays, Filipinos and Javanese piling into the opium
dens, brothels and gambling houses, the alcohol and the steamy nights of the north
west fuelling the swearing and bickering that often times erupts into violent clashes in
the dusty streets.
Further down the road are the lower level indenture labourers, Koepangers and
Manilamen, penned up in tents and shacks, hand processing thousands of pearl shells
during long, hot days and repairing the luggers lined up on the shores. Over 400 of
them were operating in Broome's heydays.
On the fringe of the town live the lowest and poorest of all, displaced Aborigines in
their humpies, exploited and abused by their white masters, treated like slaves if not
worse.
But I get ahead of myself. Let's start at the beginning...
The Founding Days
The first white person appearing in Broome history is Abel Tasman, the famed Dutch
navigator who discovered the island state in the South of Australia. He sailed past and
charted much of the Kimberley coast in 1644.
The English buccaneer William Dampier was the first European to actually visit
Broome's shores in 1688, after sailing north from Shark Bay in the H.M.S. Roebuck and
landing somewhere near the Buccaneer Archipelago.
As the story goes he also landed at what is today called Buccaneer Rock in Roebuck
Bay and buried a pirate treasure chest. You can see his ghost there at night, looking for
his lost treasure with a lantern... Or maybe you won't. Dampier actually never landed at
Roebuck Bay.
Still, the Dampier Archipelago, Dampier Peninsula, Roebuck Bay and of course the
famous Roebuck Hotel on Dampier Terrace are all named after this first visit.
An unsuccessful attempt to develop the area to graze sheep started in the 1860s and was
soon abandoned. (Cattle arrived around 1885, when the McDonalds and the Duracks
established the first cattle stations across the Kimberley.)
1861 was the defining year in Broome's history. A new species, the pearl oyster
Pinctada maxima was discovered in Roebuck Bay and turned out to be the largest pearl
shell in the world.
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At the time buttons, cutlery handles and other objects were made from "mother of
pearl". It was such a valuable commodity that any pearls that were found in the shell
were only viewed as a bonus. A thriving industry emerged, based on the humble button.
Within only three years the industry supplied 75% of the world's mother of pearl. It was
pearl shell, not pearls, that made Broome.
For the next years, from the 1860s till the 1880s, naked Aboriginal men and women
called skindivers were collecting the shells from up to 12 metres depth. These
Aboriginal divers hadn't asked for work. Rather they had been rounded up, chained and
marched to the shore where they were crammed onto the pearl boats. They worked in
atrocious conditions, subjected to unbelievable brutality and dying in scores. Slave
trading thrived throughout the north west.
Only when the shallower waters had been emptied of shells and the pearlers eventually
recognised that it was impossible to go any deeper without equipment, the demand for
Aboriginal divers grew less and eventually faded away, marking the end of another
chapter in the sorry book of our relations with the indigenous owners of this country.
Hard hats for divers were introduced in the 1880s, leading to Broome's official birth in
1883. It was decreed to be a township by Sir Frederick Napier Broome, then Governor
of Western Australia.
Ironically the Governor didn't want to be associated with the new "town", which at that
time wasn't much more than a few struggling camps.
The Early Days

The next important development in the history of Broome came again from the depth of
the ocean.
When in 1889 a third submarine telegraph cable was laid to connect Java and Australia,
this time through Broome rather than Darwin (it was landed on what is today known as
Cable Beach), things really started to happen.
The history of Broome's Cable House, the office for the telegraphists, includes another
urban myth. Apparently the building was meant for Kimberley in South Africa. Instead
it arrived on the western edge of the Australian Kimberley. Nice story, but not to be
found in any official documents.
Anyway, the steel for the cable house arrived in Broome in kit form from Britain, the
teak for the interior was picked up en route from Singapore. The Chinese who had
collected and loaded the teak came with it to erect the house. Broome at the time didn't
have a jetty, so those Chinese labourers had to cart everything across the mudflats.
A deep water jetty was built in 1897 and the customs house that came with it is a
museum today. A police station, a hospital and a gaol followed.
When a new cable station was built close to Perth the traffic that went through Broome
decreased and the Broome cable station was eventually closed in 1914. After WWI the
building was converted and reopened as a courthouse in 1921.
The heritage building still stands today as the Broome Courthouse on the corner of
Hamersley and Frederick Street and is still an impressive building.
Heydays of the Pearling Industry, its Demise and the Japanese Bombings
The location of Broome in the north of Western Australia and the port helped the town
and pearling industry to grow. By 1900 the town supported a whole fleet of pearl
luggers (the number of boats peaked at 403 in 1913) and a population of 1000 whites
and 3000 people of Asians/South-East Asian origin: Malays, Chinese, Japanese,
Filipinos and others mixed with Europeans and Aborigines.
Tropical cyclones in 1893, 1908 and 1910 had sunk many luggers and taken many lives,
but the the Broome boom was unstoppable.
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Chinatown was a chaotic place, especially when the luggers were in and the crews had
money in their pockets, after 6 months at sea, crammed aboard a little lugger with little
distractions. The pearl divers in Broome's history made it the fascinating multicultural
town that it is today.
The town was booming. Before World War I Broome supplied over 80% of the world's
mother of pearl. While the pearling masters and their industry prospered the occupation
proved fatal for many of the pearl divers. The "bends", drowning, sharks and cyclones
ended many dreams of a comfortable life. The Japanese divers had the reputation to be
the best and the hundreds of headstones in Broome's Japanese cemetery speak clear
evidence of the risks that came with their work.
Enter WWI. The upheaval and the following depression devastated Broome's economy.
There was now also strong competition from the Japanese. By 1939 the pearling
industry survived on government subsidies.
Next came WWII during which the Japanese divers and crew were interned. Most of
Broome's pearl luggers were sent south, loaded with women and children. Remaining
boats were burnt on the beaches to prevent them from falling into enemy hands.
Broome and its port were undefended when they suffered the second worst air raid in
Australia's history (Darwin of course suffered the worst) on the 3rd of March 1942. The
Japanese shot down a plane carrying wounded which had just taken off heading for
Perth. They went on to destroy 15 of the Dornier flying boats anchored in the shallow
bay. Most of the flying boats were filled with refugees, mostly women and children,
many of whom died either immediately or swimming through the burning oil. Then the
Japanese bombers turned to the airfield, where most of the planes were destroyed. When
they finally left Broome its buildings, vehicles and even the ocean around the bombed
boats were burning. 24 aircraft had been destroyed and 70 people killed.
Three of the flying boats that were destroyed by the Japanese bombings can still be seen
in the bay at very low tide today.
The only good for Broome that came from the war was the fact that the Japanese
competition wasn't operating either. After the war the pearling industry recovered to
some degree, but the heydays were definitely over.
Then disaster struck again. As if all that hadn't been enough, in the 1950s a crucial
invention hit the market. Yep, the plastic button. Pearl shell became worthless over
night...
New Days Dawning

The plastic button sealed the fate of the Mother of Pearl industry, but not the fate of
Broome. Experiments with cultured pearls had been under way for many years and
again it was the Japanese who perfected the process. The results were phenomenal.
Broome pearls mature in 2 rather than 4 years like Japanese pearls and they are also
twice as big. 20 years later the town produced up to 70% of the world's large cultured
pearls. It continues to be one of the world's major suppliers of quality pearls today.
Today pearls are no longer the only pillar of Broome's economy. The 1980s saw a new
industry emerge: tourism discovered Broome and is growing fast. Some say too fast.
From 2,000 residents in 1980 Broome grew to 11,000 in 1999, by the far the fastest
population increase in the history of Broome. Today the town has a population of over
14,000, is easy to reach and offers anything in terms of accommodation, dining,
shopping and activities that a visitor could ask for.
But the history of Broome is visible everywhere. And I don't mean the statues and
monuments sprinkled across the town. I mean the Broome people. The faces you see in
the streets are still a vivid reminder of the wild pearling days of Broome's history. Such
an impossible to identify mix of races...
71
GETTING AROUND
Car Hire The Biggies
Apollo Campervans, 1800 777 779, info@apollocamper.com, www.apollocamper.com
Avis Broome, 9193 5980,avis.broome@avis.com.au, , www.avis.com.au
Britz / Maui Australia, 9192 2647, 1800 670 232, broome@britz.com, www.britz.com or
www.maui-rentals.com
Budget Rent a Car, 9193 5355, broome@budgetwa.com.au, www.budget.com.au
Delta Europcar, 9193 7788, broome@europcar.com.au, www.europcar.com.au
Hertz, 9192 1428, hertz.brm@westnet.com.au, www.hertz.com.au
Kea Campers Australia, 9192 8854, broome@keacampers.com, www.keacampers.com
Thrifty (NT & Kimberley), 9193 7712, broome@rentacar.com.au, www.rentacar.com.au
Wicked Campers, 1800 246 869 or (07) 3227 0100, online@wickedcampers.com.au,
www.wickedcampers.com.au
Car Hire - Local Outfits

Broome Broome Car Rentals, 9192 2210, reservations@broomebroome.com.au,
www.broomebroome.com.au, scooters, small sedans, soft top vehicles and large 4WDs. Has
office in Darwin and offers one way rentals and self drive packages.
Just Broome Hire Cars, 9192 5282, hire@broomehirecentre.com.au,
www.justbroomehirecars.com.au, as the name says, for local use only.
Topless Rentals, 9193 5017, toprent@iinet.net, www.toplessrentals.com.au
Access Broome Car Rental, 9192 2859, redsophia48@hotmail.com
Other
Zuki Freedom, Livingstone St, 0447 486 855, www.zukifreedom.com.au
Suzukis with umbrellas, chairs, esky and fishing rod! Access to Gantheaume Point and Cable
Beach - limited to 3km north of the rocks.
Buggy Freedom, 0447 486 855, $100 per day, min. hire 2 days, includes one entry for
Malcom Douglas Wilderness Wildlife Park
Broome Scooter Hire, Coughlan St, 9193 5626,broomescooters@westnet.com.au,
www.broomescooters.com.au. From $40 a day, lower for longer hires.
Broome Cycles, Hamersley St, 9192 1871, www.broomecycles.com.au
Hire mountain bikes per day/week, from town shop (near Shell Roadhouse, opposite
McDonalds, at 2 Hamersley St) or a trailer at Cable Beach (May - Oct only, look for trailer in
Broome Crocodile Park car park). $24 for first day, it gets cheaper with longer hire. $50
deposit and photo ID required.
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Bus
Grab the town bus if you don't have a vehicle to get around Broome. The information
materials at the Visitor Centre include details about the excellent town bus service.
Broome Town Bus, 9193 6585, www.broomebus.com.au
Buses run hourly between Chinatown and Cable Beach 7.10am 7.10pm (half hourly during
main season, 8.40am 6.40pm). One way fare A$4, day pass A$10, includes some discounts
at local attractions.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO

Broome is not big and many of Broome's attractions are clustered in one area. The
best place to start is the Broome Visitor Centre (1 Hamersley St., at the first roundabout
as you enter town, 8am to 5pm Apr-Nov, 9195 2200). You can not usually expect to get
detailed and personalised advice there unless you want to book with them. They are
far too busy in the tourist season. But they will give you street maps and information
materials so you can do a self guided tour of the Broome attractions.
Ask about the Broome Heritage Trail to do a self guided walk taking in all the
historical and cultural attractions.
The visitor centre materials also include a tide chart (as you will see below, tides are
important to view some of Broome's attractions,).
Chinatown
Chinatown with its unusual mix of Colonial and Asian architecture is a reminder of
Broome's history. The original commercial and industrial centre of the town was once
busy with pearl sheds, billiard saloons, entertainment houses and Chinese eateries.
Today Chinatown is Broome's main shopping district. Some of the world's finest
pearl showrooms are located here. Even if you aren't here to buy pearls you will
enjoy browsing the different shops.
At Pearl Luggers on Dampier Terrace you can tour some dry docked and restored
luggers, learn more about the pearling history, watch a demonstration of the old
diving gear and get a taste of the pearl meat.
Look also for the Old Pearlers' Quarters (restored and heritage listed) and the
Streeter's Jetty (the original jetty for Broome based pearl luggers).
Another good place to find out more about Broome's fascinating history is Johnny
Chi Lane, a small mall that connects Carnarvon Street with Dampier Terrace. Twenty
plaques on the walls tell the story of Broome's early days. Start at the Carnarvon
Street end.
The stories take you all the way from the days when the first ships landed in Broome,
through the whole history of the pearling industry and all its ups and downs, the
second world war, to the advent of tourism and present day Broome. A great read and
an hour will have passed before you know.
The Broome Heritage Centre is located in the Old Convent and houses the
permanent Relationships Exhibition. The exhibition covers the 100 years of the Sisters
of St John of God's ministry in the Kimberley. The Sisters arrived in 1907 in Beagle
Bay and branched out to Lombadina, Balgo and other Aboriginal communities. I write
73
more about those communities in later chapters.

The exhibition is a very important resource for the local Aboriginal people and
according to the sistersa bit of an eye opener for the tourists.
Broome Heritage Centre, 9 Barker St, 9192 3950, heritage.ssjg.org.au
Entry is by donation to ensure that nobody has to skip the visit due to financial circumstances.
Mon-Fri 9am-1pm, Sat 10am-1pm.
Chinatown markets are held in Johnny Chi Lane during the dry season (ask the
visitor centre for details). The other markets in Broome are the Courthouse markets.
Held every Saturday (Cnr Frederick and Hamersley St., 8am-1pm) these are the
largest art and craft markets in the Kimberley and you get music and food thrown in
as well.
The Courthouse with its distinctive Broome style architecture and gardens is an
attraction in itself. It began its life as the Cable House, enabling telegraph
communication with the rest of the world.
If you have the time, then an evening kicking back in the green and white striped deck
chairs at Sun Pictures in Carnarvon St is a must. The Guinness record holder as the
world's oldest operating open-air movie theatre (built in 1916) shows current movies
on seven nights a week during the dry season.
Sun Pictures, www.broomemovies.com.au, adults $16.50, children $11.50, family $55, Tue
weekly specials at Sun Cinemas, see current program for start times.
Town Beach Area

Town Beach has a picnic area with barbecues and a children's playground and also a
boat ramp. Well, and a beach. Town beach is one of the places to watch the Staircase
to the Moon, a natural phenomenon where the full moon light is reflecting off the
mud flats of Roebuck Bay at low tide. Staircase markets are held at the beach, too.
Monthly, obviously, to coincide with the Staircase to the Moon. (Details below.)
Another attraction at Town Beach is the Flying Boat Wreck, one of the Flying Boats
that was lost in the March 1942 Japanese air raid of Broome. The wreck can only be
seen at very low tide.
Not really at Town Beach but in that part of town is the not so well known but highly
recommended Shell House of Guy Street. The Shell House started out as a private
collection of an unbelievable variety of shells that the lady who owned it made
accessible to the public. She eventually sold the house and her license (you need a
license to collect live shells). The place now has its third owner and has expanded to
include shell products, pearls and other souvenirs. If you are looking at buying
souvenirs the Shell House is a better place than Chinatown. It's where all the locals
buy and do their Christmas shopping. (call 9192 1423 for opening hrs, free entry)
History Buffs will also enjoy the Broome Historical Society Museum in Saville St.
Port Area
The port is a little out of town but the bus can drop you there. Near the port you find
the Chinese and Japanese cemeteries. (Both have only Chinese inscriptions because the
stonemason only knew Chinese characters.)
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The Broome Golf Club is out here. So is the Hovercraft Base (the Broome
hovercraft is the only commercial hovercraft in Australasia) and the Deep Water
Jetty (good for fishing and there are two boat ramps here, too).
The laid back Wharf restaurant has excellent seafood and the biggest selection of
wines to buy by the glass that I've seen anywhere.
Gantheaume Point
Gantheaume Point has some amazing rock formations and colours, good for taking
photographs. You find the lighthouse here and Anastasia's Pool. Anastasia's Pool is a
small pool in the rocks that the former lighthouse keeper made for his arthritic wife.
The high tide would fill the pool and she would exercise her limbs in it.
The beach between Gantheaume Point and Riddell Point is called Riddell Beach. It's
a scenic area of red pindan cliffs contrasted against the Indian Ocean. The cliffs are
ancient. The area experiences 10 metre tides and at very low tides you can view
dinosaur footprints that are some 130 million year old. (All other times you have to
make do with the plaster cast replica at the top.)
Riddell Beach isn't an endless stretch of white sand like Cable Beach. It is smaller and
rockier, popular with photographers, with walkers and with locals who want to avoid
the masses at Cable Beach.
Other Attractions
Matso's on Hamersley St. is the only boutique brewery in the Kimberley. The
building is the old Union Bank building and has been moved twice in its history! It
also houses Matso's Art Gallery. There are many beers to taste, great veranda views
over Roebuck Bay, and the food at the caf is pretty good, too!
Malcom Douglas' Broome Crocodile Park is located cnr Cable Beach Road &
Sanctuary Drive and is a good place to become acquainted with our crocs.
Sad Update: Malcolm Douglas died in a tragic freak car accident at his crocodile
park on September 23, 2010. The world famous bushman, documentary maker,
conservationist and Australia's original crocodile hunter was 69. After long
deliberation his family eventually decided to close the Crocodile Park in January
2012 and relocated the crocodiles to the new ponds at the Wildlife Wilderness Park .
For a look into today's pearl farming industry visit Willie Creek Pearl Farm. It is
located 35 km north of Broome on Willie Creek Rd (off the Manari Rd, which comes
off the Cape Leveque Rd). The pearl farm can be visited via an organised coach tour
from Broome or independently. (Allow one hour travel time.)
Willie Creek Pearl Farm, Willie Creek Rd, 9192 000, www.williecreekpearls.com.au
Coach tours: adults $95, children $50, family 2+2 $240, pick up from all accommodations.
Self drive tours: adults $55, children $30, family $140
Tours usually start 9 am, 10 am, 2 pm, times may change with demand so check first.
The Broome Bird Observatory is a great place for bird enthusiasts and nature lovers.
It is located 24 km out of Broome and also offers tourist accommodation. Just so you
know what to expect: the facilities are basic and the last 15 km of the road can be
shocking. (More details in a separate chapter below.)
75
Sixteen kilometres from Broome, on the highway, Malcolm Douglas had begun
developing a 30 ha wildlife park and animal refuge called Malcolm Douglas'
Wilderness Park
You enter the wilderness through the jaws of a giant corocodile to get to a display
about Malcom's 40 year history producing adventure films. The park's two billabongs
are home to 200 crocodiles. Other animals living at the park are cassowaries, dingoes
(including the rare white and a black), hundreds of kangaroos, euros and wallabies,
emus and jabirus, as well as many birds in several large aviaries. Shady paths
meander through the whole area and tours through the park happen from 10am to 5pm
on week days, and from 2pm on weekends.
Malcolm Douglas Wilderness Park, 15 min/16 km from Broome on Great Northern Hwy,
9192 6580, www.malcolmdouglas.com.au/wildernesspark.html
Open 2pm-5pm year round except Christmas Day, daily crocodile feeding tour at 3pm, adults
$35, children $20, family 2+2 $90.
Also along the highway, 18 km out of town, is The Mango Place, or rather, turn left
after 18 km and find it after 1 km on your right. Kanagae Estate is a maker of all sorts
of mango wines and liqueurs, jams and chutneys, as well as smoothies, fudges, candy
and ice creams. They also do yummie wood fired pizzas on Fridays and Sundays.
The Mango Place, Kanagae Drive, 9192 5462, www.mangowine.com.au
Open Mon-Thu and Sat 10am 4pm, Fri to 10pm and Sun to 9 pm. Wood fired pizza on Fri
and Sun. Offers bus transfers from town and Cable Beach so you can drink yourself silly on
the mango wines. You can also find the Kanagae Estate range of producs at their stall at the
Broome Courthouse Markets.
From Where to Watch the Sunset?

Well, any beach towel on Cable Beach is a great spot, provided you planned ahead
and brought an esky and drinks. Another good spot to BYO drinks and a picnic rug is
Gantheaume Point. (The red cliffs beat the beach in photographs any day.)
Didn't plan ahead? Then head for one of these places:
Cable Beach Club Sunset Bar (upmarket, and you get to see the camels
returning from their sunset trips)
Matso's Bar and Brewerie (Hamersley St.)
Mangrove Resort Palms Cafe Bar (Carnarvon St.)
Events
Staircase to the Moon
Between March and October you can admire the Staircase to the Moon. The natural
phenomenon is caused by the exposed mudflats in Roebuck Bay at extremely low tide
reflecting the rising full moon, creating the optical illusion of a staircase reaching to
the moon. (Or so they say. It looks more like moon light on mud flats to me.)
One good place to watch the staircase is Town Beach, not least because of the
Staircase Markets held there, offering food, craft and music/entertainment. Other
popular places are the Mangrove Resort (which also offers entertainment on Staircase
nights) and the Broome Golf Club.
The table below is for 2014. (Note that Town Night Market dates may change.)
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Part III: The Guide
Date
Sunset
Moonrise
Markets?
April 16
17:41
18:28
yes
April 17
17:40
19:17
yes
April 18
17:40
20:10
May 15
17:26
18:00
yes
May 16
17:25
18:56
yes
May 17
17:25
19:56
June 13
17:23
17:41
yes
June 14
17:23
18:43
yes
June 15
17:23
19:46
July 13
17:31
18:31
yes
July 14
17:31
19:35
yes
Aug 11
17:40
18:18
yes
Aug 12
17:40
19:21
yes
Sep 09
17:45
18:02
yes
Sep 10
17:45
19:03
yes
Sep 11
17:45
20:03
Oct 9
17:50
18:44
yes
Oct 10
17:50
19:43
yes
Other 2014 Events

Broome Races: May 31, June 14 and 21, July 5, 12 (Gentlemen's Day), 25, August 2
(Kimberley Cup), August 12 (Ladies Day) and 16 (Broome Cup). Gates open 10.30,
races start at 1pm, gate gate fee $10, $20 on cup days, free for ladies on Ladies Day
and men on Gentlemen's Day.
North West Expo 2014: May 3/4, Broome Recreation & Aquatic Centre, Cable
Beach Rd.
Kullari Naidoc Festival: (no 2014 dates set at the time of writing, in 2013 it
happened over the first half of July)
Traditional and contemporary local Indigenous culture, traditional food tasting,
cultural sharing, gala awards and a Mardi Gras.
Shinju Matsuri Festival: September 5 - 14. Held during the traditional time of
various Asian celebrations, the Festival of the Pearl consists of 9 days of parades,
performing arts, fairs and exhibitions. Not only acknowledges the pearling industry
but also meant to showcases Broome's beauty, history and community to the outside
world. Began 37 years ago! (2015 dates: Aug 28 Sep 6)
Opera under the Stars: Aug 30 at the Cable Beach Amphitheatre.
Dragon Boat Races:: Sep 13, Town Beach. First race at 9 am. A full day of
entertainment with raffle, sausage sizzle, food, drinks etc.
Mango Festival: Usually the last weekend of Nov, celebrates ripening of mango,
Mardi Gras, mango tasting, Great Chefs at Broome Mango Cook-off
77
CABLE BEACH
Getting There
With its 22 km (14 miles) of white sand Cable Beach has been rated one of the world
top five beaches. Don't ask me where and when, nobody tells you that. Not that it
matters. Cable Beach is an outstanding beach, there is no doubt about that.
You get to it by following the Cable Beach road (take Frederick St from the town centre).
If you have no transport hop on the town bus.
You find the beach 4 km west of Broome. Or rather, you find the parking lot and the
access to the beach. The beach itself extends a lot further on both sides from there.
Turn left and a long stroll would eventually take you to the photogenic red cliffs of
Gantheaume Point. Turn right and keep going seemingly forever.
At the end of the parking area is a ramp down to the beach and if you have a 4WD
you can drive down, pick your way over the flat rocks to your right and then keep
going until you find a suitably deserted spot to pull up. This area is also popular with
nudists. If that's not your cup of tea just don't pull up right next to them. 22 km of
beach should be enough room for everybody.
Years ago it was possible to bush camp in the dunes behind the beach. That practice
was outlawed long ago to protect the fragile ecology of the dune system. Currently a
debate rages over beach access restrictions for cars, too. Cars on the beach would be
ok if all drivers behaved responsibly, but they don't.
Activities
Lying in the sun and bobbing in the azure waters, can you call that activities?
If you want to get really active you can hire jet skis or surf boards and other beach
gear. (The jet ski hire is left of the Surf Lifesavers Club, 9193 5800 or 0400 035 800,
alternatively at 4 Male Crt in town.)
If you like walking ask about Minyirr Park. A network of 22 km of self guided
walking trails (called Nagula, Lurujarri and Minyirr) spans the dunes. The walks take
you along some of Cable Beach, around Gantheaume Point and then along Riddell
Beach.
Of course you can also join the popular sunset camel rides. (Look under Tour
Operators in the last section of the Broome chapter.)
(Malcom Douglas' Broome Crocodile Park has unfortunately been closed.)
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Is Swimming Safe?
Reader question: "Why don't the sharks or crocodiles inhabit these waters, surely they
are no different to those around the rest of the Australian north?"
Forget the sharks. The dangerous species prefer cooler waters. Sharks are not an issue
when swimming off Cable Beach. Neither are crocodiles. So far. It is a very rare
occurrence to see a crocodile at any beach in northern Australia. Beaches are not a
suitable crocodile habitat.
Saltwater crocodiles prefer river and creek mouths, estuaries and mangrove swamps.
Deep, murky waters where they can hide. They are opportunistic stalkers and very
conservative with their energy. They need to be able to hide and sneak up on their prey
and that's impossible at a beach.
Of course it is not impossible to see a crocodile from or near a beach, but the further
from any creek, river, mangroves etc. you are, the less likely it is. A little beach, wedged
between two mangrove lined creek mouths, is not exactly a recommended swimming
spot. But Cable Beach is 22 km long and the next creek is even further away.
Crocodile sightings happened at Cable Beach in May 2007 and also in April 2003.
Another crocodile was spotted in November 2005 near Town Beach. Those crocs would
have been young males looking for suitable habitat after being forced out to sea by
established larger males. Every male saltwater crocodile needs its own territory.
Crocodile numbers are growing so I'd expect sightings to increase in future.
Saltwater crocodiles are less active during the cooler time of the year. Any sightings
occurred during the wet season. You should not be in the water that time of the year
anyway, because of the jellyfish.
As long as there is only the occasional young croc cruising through Cable Beach in the
wet season there is nothing to worry about.
During most of the dry season you can swim at Cable Beach, but you'd be well
advised to stay out of the water during the wet!
Learn about jellyfish: www.kimberleyaustralia.com/broome-beaches-irukandji.html
THE BROOME BIRD OBSERVATORY

The Broome Bird Observatory, on the shores of beautiful Roebuck Bay, is the world's
top shore bird and wader location. It was established in 1988 by the not-for-profit
conservation organisation Birds Australia and serves as both a research and a tourism
facility.
As they say in their brochure: "Everybody is welcome!"
The observatory is a paradise for bird enthusiasts. And if you're not a bird enthusiast,
visit anyway. You might just turn into one.
The rich mudflats of Roebuck Bay are possibly the most bio-diverse mudflats that have
been studied in the world. The abundance sustains a huge number of birds that live on
the flats, the highest diversity of waders in Australia.
The migratory shorebirds breed in Asia and Siberia during the short summer there, May
to July. But you can still go birding at Broome Bird Observatory during that time of the
year. Thousands of birds stay at Roebuck Bay because they are too immature to breed.
They don't return to the breeding grounds until the year after.
79
Between August and October you can witness the adults and this year's chicks returning.
Many of the adult birds are still in their colourful breeding plumage when they arrive.
The chicks leave their nest within hours of hatching and within only 2 - 5 weeks they
have to be ready for the annual migration. They arrive at Roebuck Bay after a 10,000
km non-stop journey.
The birds stay at Roebuck Bay until March/April the following year. If you see flocks of
birds in splendid breeding plumage taking off at that time of the year, building
formations and heading north, know that they will not touch ground again for many
thousand kilometres.
The integrity of these mudflats is essential to the survival of the species that come here
every year to feast on the riches the flats provide. Roebuck Bay is one of the top
locations in the world to view these impressive international travellers. Seeing the huge
numbers and the variety of birds here it's easy to be lulled into thinking everything is
fine.
However, particularly in Korea and China many habitats are threatened by huge coastal
reclamation projects. And while Roebuck Bay is still in good condition, not all is well.
Broome is growing and that means pollution and the pressure on the bay and its wildlife
will increase. The excessive recreational use of the Northern Beaches is a particular
concern as many thousand birds roost in the area.
To get to Broome Bird Observatory follow the road from Broome to Derby for 9 km
and then turn right. From there it is another 15 km along the unsealed (and often
awfully corrugated and washed out) Crab Creek Road. 4WD might be required when
the road is wet.
The previous $5 entry fee for adults has been waived in favour of a request for
donations. (About $5 seems appropriate I'd say.) The fee used to include the hire of
binoculars and telescope. For guests staying at the observatory the use of the grounds,
binoculars etc. is free anyway.
The Broome Bird Observatory offers self guided bird watching on the observatory
trails or botanical walks. Many birding sites are within walking distance of the
observatory. There is also an extensive video library.
Get the most out of a visit by participating in one of the tours: one hour, two hour and
full day tours with different focus are available. For the serious birder the observatory
offers 5 day courses at different times of the year. It is also possible to take part in
research and on-site activities.
Broome Bird Observatory, Crab Creek Rd, 9193 5600, www.broomebirdobservatory.com
Transfer from Broome $45 return for one, additional persons $15 ea), available for people
spending 2+ nights.
Accommodation in fully self contained chalets or various air conditioned rooms with shared
amenities: from $60 to $165 for two, bush camping (hot showers and fully equipped camp
kitchen) $15pp. Bookings are recommended for the busy months from June to September.
Also always check wet season opening hours.
If you are interested in birds you may also want to check out this tour operator:
Kimberley Birdwatching, 9192 1246, 0429 706 800,
www.kimberleybirdwatching.com.au
Tours vary from 3 hours locally to 2 weeks Best of the Kimberley.
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Part III: The Guide
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND COMMERCIAL LISTINGS

Broome Visitor Centre
Location: 1 Hamersley St (first roundabout as you reach town from the highway)
Open: (Apr-Sep) Mon-Fri: 8:30am - 5pm, Sat/Sun/Public Holidays: 8:30am 4:30pm
(Oct-Mar) Mon-Fri: 8:30am 4pm, Sat/Sun/Public Holidays: 9am - 2pm
Ph: 9195 2200 or 1800 883 777, Fax: 9192 2063
www.visitbroome.com.au, enquiries@broomevisitorcentre.com
Internet
Galactica DMZ Internet Caf: 4/2 Hamersley St (next to McDonalds), 9192 5897
Post Office, Paspaley Shopping Centre, 13 13 18
Broome Hospital, Robinson St, 9194 2222
ACCOMMODATION
The rates quoted below are the full rates for two people, for the most basic rooms
available, for one night only, at peak season. Shoulder season (April/May and
October) is often cheaper and you can get real bargains between November and
March. You can also get specials and offers at other times. More than one night is
usually cheaper. The prices are only meant to serve as a comparative guidance.
Do your research (direct links to websites are included where available) and book
early!
For a quick and easy price comparison between online booking sites which often
have cheaper deals than you can get from the hotels or resorts directly use the
accommodation search engine on this page: Broome Accommodation
(Don't be fooled if a listing says Sold. It might just be that the provider does not
take bookings through any of the searched booking sites.)
To find a lot more listings see the Broome Visitor Centre website:
www.visitbroome.com.au/bookings
Resorts/Hotels/Motels
Cable Beach Club International Resort, 9192 0400 or 1800 199 099,
www.cablebeachclub.com
Asia-meets-the Kimberley-Outback chic. Corrugated iron walls, verandas and Aboriginal art
represent the Kimberley, pagoda style roofs, red and green lattice work, red silk bathrobes and
the world's largest crystal Buddha provide Asian flair. Family friendly, sunset bar, two
restaurants. Rooms from $395 and much above, good wet season packages.
Pinctada Cable Beach Resort and Spa, 10 Murray Road, 9193 8388 or 1800 746 282,
www.pinctadacablebeach.com.au
One of Broome's newly built resorts, a five star luxury resort and spa. 72 luxurious rooms
around a courtyard and pool, all expertly designed and decorated with handpicked artwork
and furnishings. From $291.
The Pearle of Cable Beach, 14 Millington Rd, 9194 0900, www.thepearle.com.au
Also brand new, and proudly claiming to be the jewel in Broome's crown. Hotel or self
contained villa accommodation along meandering roads and landscaped pathways, all
wrapped around a central resort pool. Rooms from $365, pavilions from $710.
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Mangrove Resort Hotel, 47 Carnarvon St, 9192 1303 or 1800 094 818,
www.mangrovehotel.com.au,
Luxurious rooms with great views over bay, only a very short stroll from China Town, bus
stop (to get to the beach) is directly opposite, good breakfast, nice restaurant, great bar, two
pools with great views from lawn area. Motel rooms $172, standard rooms $201, executive
rooms $270.
Mercure Inn Continental Broome, Weld St, 9195 5900 , www.mercure.com.au
Simple and clean facilities, pool, barbecue, restaurant, bar and bottle shop. Near town centre,
opposite Matso's, the famous must visit brewery and restaurant. Rooms from $132.
Roebuck Bay Hotel Motel, Carnarvon St, 9192 1221, www.roey.com.au
The legendary but noisy Roey has lots of character, a popular bar and a bottle shop. The
budget rooms are facing towards the noise, the superior rooms offer more space and peace.
Great choice if you want to be close to the action. Budget rooms from $150 and superior
rooms from $170.
Oaks Broome, Cnr Saville & Robinson St, 9192 9500 or 1300 822 010,
www.oakshotelsresorts.com/oaks-broome/
The Tropicana Inn has reincarnated as the Oaks. Contemporary combined hotel and apartment
style accommodation, in landscaped gardens surrounding three pools, restaurant, cafe, bar.
Rooms $284, studios $315, 1/2 BR apartments from $333/$417. Lower rates for extended
stays.
B&B
McAlpine House, 55 Herbert St, 9192 0588 or 1800 746 282, www.mcalpinehouse.com
Now owned by Pinctada. Located in a quiet part of old Broome, in comfortable walking
distance to shops, attractions, beaches. Authentic pearling master's home, built in 1910,
beautifully restored in 1982 by Lord Alistair McAlpine (the founder of the original Cable
Beach Resort). Eventually the house was converted into an immaculate and exquisitely
furnished four star boutique hotel by the current owners. Small, private, personalised service.
Rooms start from $255, suites from $365. Cheaper if staying more than one night. Two night
minimum may apply during peak season.
Courthouse B&B, 10 Stewart St, 9192 2733, www.thecourthouse.com.au
A luxurious and gorgeous 6 bedroom/6 bathroom, two storey family home. Spacious, relaxed
atmosphere, tropical gardens and pool, very personalised service. In comfortable walking
distance to shops, attractions, beaches. Rooms from $185.
Old Broome Guesthouse, 64 Walcott St, 9192 7175 or 0404927622,
www.oldbroomeguesthouse.com.au
In old part of Broome, close to centre and Town Beach, rooms have open air bathrooms and
private courtyards. Rooms from $280. 3 night minimum stay.
Broometown B&B, 15 Stewart St, 9192 2006, www.broometown.com.au
Another stylish boutique B&B, as all the others above features colonial architecture with an
Asian touch, luxurious rooms, privacy, central location. Three suites and pool. Rooms from
$285. 2 night minimum stay.
Coconutz B & B, Lot 12 Denham Rd, Coconut Well, 9192 5266 or 0424 475 956,
www.coconutz.com.au
Off the beaten track in natural bushland, accommodation in safari style eco-tents. $215,
minimum stay 2 nights.
Mother of Pearl Guest house, 48 Walcott St, 9193 7227,
Broome's newest B&B, 500 m from Chinatown in historical Broome, accommodation in three
individual bungalows, outdoor lounge/dining area with a fully equipped outdoor kitchen,
BBQ and pizza oven. From $200.
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Part III: The Guide
Bay House Bed & Breakfast, crnr Robinson/Guy St, 9192 2529 or 0438 711 747,
Three rooms in large house in central location with views of Roebuck Bay. From $185, 3
night minimum stay during peak season.
Windmill Lodge Retreat, 558 Broome Rd, 9192 2337,
This is the only B&B in Broome that accepts dogs. Dogs are however not allowed inside, and
they must be kept on a leash at all times. (This never used to be the case, but a visiting dog
one year killed three blue tongue lizards within hours of arriving, hence the new rules.) From
$170/night.
Reflections B&B, 69 Demco Dr, 9192 6610, www.reflectionsbnb.com.au
Three rooms in large two story house near town beach, impressive breakfast menus, very
friendly hosts who can tell you many interesting stories from Broome's early days, and a 10%
discount for locals. From $175.
Demco B&B, Demco Dr, 9192 6688 or 0418 844 266, www.demcobnb.com.au
Diversbell B&B, Piggets Way, 9192 5548, www.diversbell.com.au
Gwens Place, Taylor Rd, 9192 2874
The Lounging Lizard B&B, Broome Rd, 9193 7439
The Temple Tree B&B, Anne St, 9193 5728
Broome Oasis, 19/544 Broome Rd, 9192 2311, www.broomeoasisbandb.com
The Little Pearler B& B, 24 Stewart St, 9192 7664
Chez Marguerites, 2 Morgan Ct, 9192 1998, www.chezmarguerites.com.au
Aarons B & B, 12 Aarons Dr, 9193 7041 or 0419 829 078
The Bungalow-Broome, 3 McKenzie Rd, 9193 6393 or 0417 918 420,
www.thebungalowbroome.com.au
Asrama B & B, 65 Demco Dr, 9192 5513 or 0412 443 505, www.asrama.com.au
Ochre Moon B & B, 13 Godwit Crsc, 9192 7109, www.ochremoon.com.au
Barefoot Bungalows, Fairway Drive, 0403 887 130 or 0466 650 253
Self Contained
Also see the listings under Camping. Many campgrounds offer self-contained cabins
or bungalows at reasonable rates.
Oaks Cable Beach Sanctuary, 1 Lullfitz Drive, 9192 8088 or 1300 880 861,
www.oakshotelsresorts.com/broome-accommodation/oaks-cablebeach
Formerly the Rendezvous Sanctuary Resort, then Broome Sanctuary Resort, this year it's part
of the Oaks group. Still pretty new, designed like a village and very quiet and private, located
far from town centre, well behind the Cable Beach Club Resort and away from the beach
itself. Self contained apartments, studios and villas, some with private pools, four pools, bar
and lounge. From $309 for studios, $325 for apartments, min. stay 2 nights.
Bali Hai Resort, Murray Rd, 9191 3100, www.balihairesort.com
Also fairly new, Asian themed design, not far from the Cable Beach Club. The self contained
studios and villas are immaculate and beautiful, visitors love the Mandi style outdoor
bathrooms and free standing baths, no restaurant or bar on site. Studios start from $328, villas
from $478.
Seashells Resort, Challenor Dr, 9192 6111 or 1800 800 850, www.seashells.com.au
Self contained, very spacious, clean, well furnished apartments and bungalows with weekly
house keeping service. Family friendly and only a short walk from the beach. Apartments
from $320.
Blue Seas Resort, Sanctuary Rd, 9192 0999 or 1800 637 415, www.blueseasresort.com.au
Terracotta tiled and beautifully furnished one bedroom apartments only, spacious, clean, fully
self contained. Every apartment has a veranda or balcony facing the courtyard and pool. Rates
from $305.
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Broome Time Lodge, Cable Beach Rd, 9194 1700 or 1800 600603,
www.broometimelodge.com.au
Formerly Ocean Lodge. Newly renovated and improved, "centrally located between Cable
Beach and China Town", meaning it's away from the beach AND away from the town centre.
Self contained rooms around a peaceful courtyard. Studios from $209, rooms from $265.
Quality Suites Moonlight Bay, Carnarvon St, 9195 5200 or 1800 818 878,
www.mlb.broomeaccommodation.com.au
Bayside Holiday Apartments, Cnr Anne/Hamersley St, 9195 5200 or 1800 818 878,
www.baysideholidayapartments.com.au
Broome Beach Resort, Murray Rd, 9158 3300 or 1800 647 333,
www.broomebeachresort.com
Cable Beachside Villas (previously Cable Beachside Resort), Murray Rd, 9194 2999 or 1800
685 545, www.cablebeachside.com.au
Cocos Beach Bungalows, Sanctuary Rd, 9194 1000 or 1800 813 873,
www.cocosbeachbungalows.com
The Frangipani Resort (Mantra), Millington Rd, 9195 5000, www.thefrangipani.com.au
Habitat Beach Resort, Port Dr, 9158 3500 or 1800 683 988, www.habitatbroome.com
Budget and Backpackers

Broome's Last Resort, Bagot St, 9193 5000, www.broomeslastresort.com.au
Close to centre, adequate but noisy, large kitchen, cheap meals and drinks, courtesy bus,
attracts many long termers. A party place. Bed in aircond. 6-8 bed dorm from $25.
Cable Beach Backpackers, Sanctuary Dr, 9193 5511 or 1800 655 011,
www.cablebeachbackpackers.com
The only backpacker accommodation at Cable Beach, great location, relaxed atmosphere.
Free shuttle bus to town. Dorm beds from $25.
Kimberley Klub, Frederick St, 9192 3233 or 1800 004 345, www.kimberleyklub.com
Close to centre, free bus to Cable Beach, resort style upmarket backpackers, very fancy for a
budget place, great facilities but impersonal. Bed in 10 share dorm $30. YHA $27.
Roebuck Bay Backpackers, Napier Tce, 9192 1221, www.roey.com.au
Part of Broome's historic main pub (see hotels listings), usually crowded with long term
residents, very central, near bar, live music and bottle shop, you get to use the hotel pool, free
entry at Oasis Bar and Bungalow Nightclub, best prices in town. Dorm bed $25.
Zoo Accommodation, Sanctuary Rd, 9192 2509, www.zooaccommodation.com.au
Budget medium term accommodation if you want to avoid the backpacker scene. From $170
per week single, $280 double.
Wilderness
Broome Bird Observatory, Crab Creek Rd, 9193 5600, www.broomebirdobservatory.com
For details see the separate chapter about the observatory, above.
Buckley's Bush Retreat, Lot 40 Dampier Loc 4, 9192 1674
Three self contained cabins 19 km from Broome on the edge of Buckleys Plain, surrounded
by coastal park. Grassed area with hammocks, chairs and a BBQ. Rich bird life. Wander over
the dunes onto the northern end of Cable Beach. Light breakfast hamper provided.
Coco Eco Nature Retreat, Williams Rd, 9192 3103 or 0408 921 454, www.cocoeco.com.au
Quiet location with stunning views, 20 minutes north of Broome, bed and breakfast, BYO
drinks. Prices from $250.
Kooljaman, Cape Leveque, 9192 4970, www.kooljaman.com.au
See Dampier Peninsula chapter for details.
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Part III: The Guide
Camping
Camping in Broome is generally NOT good value, especially during the main season.
Most parks don't take reservations, no vacancy signs go up early, they may squeeze a
tent in, but not a caravan. 10 am is the checkout time, so your best bet is to turn up
then. If travelling with dogs, overflow areas are your only option as all caravan parks
have now outlawed dogs. (See Other listings for pet friendly option outside Broome.)
Broome Caravan Park, Wattle Dr, 9192 1776, www.broomecaravanpark.com
4 km east of town, shady, pool, self-contained cabins, used to allow dogs but no more.
Caravan site for 2 people $52 powered, $48 unpowered, cabins $215, camping
powered/unpowered $27/$25.
Cable Beach Caravan Park, Millington Rd, 9192 2066
Just behind the resort (and a bargain compared to prices there), gets very crowded.
Roebuck Bay Caravan Park, Walcott St, 9192 1366, www.roebuckbaycp.com.au
Most central to town (though still a fair walk), nice views over bay if lucky, gets crowded,
kiosk is good for breakfast. On site vans $90, powered van site $37 - $49, camping from $15.
Mango Camping Ground, Walcott St, 9192 1366
In CALM/DECs small mango plantation, next to Roebuck Bay caravan park, run from same
office.
Nice and shady. For backpackers only.
Tarangau Art Village Caravan Park, Cnr Millington/Lullfitz Rd, 9193 5084,
www.tarangaucaravanpark.com
Quiet location in bushland behind the dunes of Cable Beach. Powered site $46, unpowered
$36, backpacker accommodation at $25 pp, allows small dogs outside peak season. (NOT
from Jun- Aug!)
Broome Vacation Village, Port Dr, 9192 1057, www.broomevillage.com.au
Out of town, near golf course and port. Camping, ensuite sites, studio homes, chalets.
Powered /unpowered campsite $47/$37, ensuite site $56, scabins from $150, chalet $190.
Palm Grove Resort, Cable Beach, 9192 3336 or 1800 803 336, www.palmgrove.com.au
Powered sites $48, unpowered $44, unpowered tent site $38, studios from $175.
Caravan Storage
Broome Storage & Removals, Lucas St, 9192 1354.
Keshi Storage & Containers, Haynes St, 9193 5343.
Allied Pickfords also have a local agent in Broome and are apparently familiar with that kind
of request.
Other
Broome's Gateway, 0437525485, www.broomesgateway.com
Relaxed, open-style living 20 km outside Broome, camping or ensuite units, great communal
facilities, lodge also offers breakfasts, all nice pets are welcome, abundant wildlife.
Roebuck Plains, Great Northern Highway intersection, 9192 1880
34 km east of Broome, 24 hr roadhouse, offers basic units and camping, showers for travellers
(if you've been bushcamping...), and allows dogs at campsites.
Willare Bridge Roadhouse, Great Northern Highway, 9191 4775
165 km east of Broome, 55 km south of Derby, roadhouse, motel rooms and caravan park,
600 m from good fishing spots on Fitzroy River, birdwatching trail on riverbank.
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EATING OUT
Broome has an enviable restaurant scene. (That's from the point of view of a
Kununurra resident. Kununurra sucks in that respect.)
Though there are some unexpected highlights between Darwin and Perth, Broome is
the only place where you have more than one recommendable eat out to choose from.
Many restaurants and bars employ backpackers for the tourist season and there is a
high turnover, so the service is often somewhat hit and miss.
Caf D'Amore, Jones Pl, 9192 7606, www.cafedamore.com.au
Formerly Carlotta's, this is not a caf, rather an Italian restaurant. An excellent Italian
restaurant, I may say. (This is coming from a European and fan of authentic Italian cuisine.)
Casual dining in a lovely Mediterranean style courtyard. Wood fired pizzas, home made pasta
and a changing specials menu. Sells wine by the glass or BYO bottle(s) of wine. Frequented
by locals as much as tourists. I recommend booking ahead.
Matso's Cafe and Brewery, Hamersley St, 9193 5811, www.matsos.com.au
Excellent food and excellent beer (Matso's is the only boutique brewery in this part of the
world). Open all day and the veranda tables have great views over Roebuck Bay. The inside
and the bar are great, too. It's a must stop while in Broome. (The building houses a gallery,
too). Trendy.
Lustre Bar & Restaurant, Carnarvon St, 9192 1030
A new venue in old Broome. Sandwich bar during the day and bar/restaurant at night. Food,
cocktails and service receive mixed reviews, so you'll have to decide for yourself. Half price
pizzas on Mondays.
Kool Spot (formerly Bloom's), Carnarvon St, 9192 5512
Old timber building with character. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, cakes and coffee. Popular
and always full. Many people eat here after catching a movie at Sun Pictures, but breakfasts
are even better.
Shady Lane Caf, Johnny Chi Lane, 9192 2060
Huge servings of home made food, outdoor seating under palm trees, nice focaccias, quiches,
wraps and sandwiches.
Aarli Bar, Cnr Frederick/Hamersly St, 9192 5529
"Aarli" is an Aboriginal word for fish, the bar's specialty. Small bar, big menu. Huge selection
of tapas, pizzas from wood fired oven, fresh whole fish. Mediterranean style dining, where all
the food is placed in the middle of the table and everybody shares everything. Al fresco and
open all day. BYO. Gets thumbs up from readers.
Ra Ra's, Dampier Tce, 9192 1395
Breakfast/lunch cafe tucked away in an arcade and popular with the locals, yummy homemade food, excellent coffee, good music, good vibe and great value for money.
Dragonfly, Carnarvon St, 9192 3222
The famous "Henry's" used to be here, but unfortunately Henry's is history! The name of this
cafe has been changed to "Dragonfly". It is still a great spot for breakfast or lunch, and now
also does dinners. Good coffee, good food.
Old Zoo Caf, Challenor Dv, 9193 6200, www.zoocafe.com.au
The zoo is closed and the old feedhouse has been repurposed. Well, not really, I guess. You
still get fed. But it's a lot more trendy now than it used to be... Half alfresco, serves breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Gets thumbs up from readers.
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Part III: The Guide
Town Beach Caf, Robinson St, 9193 5585

Another must stop in Broome. Open for breakfast/lunch/afternoon tea, outdoor seating
overlooking the beach, great pancakes, great seafood. Gets very crowded during peak season.
Very casual. BYO.
Zanders, Cable Beach,Rd 9193 5090, www.zanders.com.au
Used to be known as the Cable Beach Sandbar & Grill, prime location on the grass at the
Cable Beach Reserve, open all day, smoothies, pizzas, steaks, barra burgers, seafood
modern Australian cuisine and licensed bar.
Divers Tavern, Cable Beach, 9193 6066, www.diverstavern.com.au
Frequented by travellers and locals. Laid back pub atmosphere, large and affordable menu.
Zeebar, Sanctuary Rd, 9193 6511, www.zeebar.com.au
Modern Australian, great selection of tapas and share plates, lots of seafood, excellent quality
food.
18 Degrees, shop 4, 63 Robinson St, 9192 7915
Trendy bar, not cheap, great selection of great tapas.
Wharf Restaurant, at the port, 9192 5700
Great Seafood to eat there or take away. You can also buy just fresh seafood to cook at home.
Open for lunch and dinner. Outdoor seating overlooking the port waters and the biggest
selection of wine by the glass ever. Very casual. I always stop here.
Lord Mac's Burger Bar, 2 Challenor Drive, 9192 8428, www.lordmacs.com
Typical burger bar with BIG burgers, excellent quality.
Land of Pharaos, shop 20, Paspaley Plaza, 9192 6469
Also known as the Egyptian Kebab House, popular with locals for lunch, great wraps and
kebabs. Brilliant kebabs, in fact.
Little Indian Restaurant, Shop 3, 16 Frederick St
Authentic Indian Food, eat in or take away, lovely outdoor sitting, a bit pricey.
12 Mile Cafe, Yamashita Road, 9192 8552
About 18km out of Broome along the highway, turn left onto Yamashita Rd. 12 Mile Cafe is
part of Serendipity Farm, the home of Fusion Herbs (certified organic and biodynamic).
Organic, home grown food, PNG organic fair trade coffee, served on a little deck under big
mango trees. Open Thu-Sun 8am-4pm, BYO, takes dinner bookings for groups of 12+.
This place is not what it used to be. It closed, then reopened only on Sundays to terrible
reviews in 2013. If someone eats here in 2014, please let me know how it was.
Asian
Azuki Japanese Fusion, Napier Terrace, 9193 7211,
Japanese cuisine with a twist. Not cheap but well worth it. Also popular for take-away sushi.
BYO.
noodlefish, Crnr Frederick/Hamersley St, 9192 1697
No typo, it's spelled lower case. The noodlefish has been around for a long time and has quite
a following. It offers a delicious blend of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine (emphasis on
seafood). Also BYO and outdoor seating. The feel is more trendy and upmarket.
2 Rice, Dampier Tce, 9192 1395
Authentic Asian cuisine (Thai, Malay and Japanese) with authentic ingredients. Eat there or
take away. Excellent value. If you are into Asian cooking you can also buy the ingredients,
which are otherwise hard to come by.
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Som Thai Kitchen, Hamersley St, 9192 6186, www.somthairestaurant.com

typical Thai menu, also offers pearl meat as a starter. Excellent food from fresh produce,
indoor and outdoor sitting, BYO.
Chin's Chinese Restaurant, Hamersley St, 9192 1466, variety from all over Asia, popular
take away.
Tong's Chinese Restaurant, 10 Napier Terrace, 9192 2080
Hotel Eateries
Check the websites in the hotel listings for the eateries associated with them:
Cable Beach Club, 9192 0400 or 1800 199 099, www.cablebeachclub.com, two restaurants
(Asian/Australian cuisine), Carvery & Buffet, Sunset bar.
Mercure Inn, Weld St, 9195 5900, "Murphy's Pub and Grill", tupical pub food, good value.
Pinctada Cable Beach Resort and Spa, www.pinctadacablebeach.com.au, SELENE
Brassiere, well reviewed.
Mangrove Hotel, Carnarvon St, 9192 1303, www.mangrovehotel.com.au, Tides Garden
Restaurant, two restaurants and beer garden, modern Australian.
Roebuck Bay Hotel, Dampier Tce, 9192 1221, www.roey.com.au, Cheffys at the Roey,
excellent pub food and great atmosphere.
Oaks Broome, 99 Robinson Street, 9192 9513, www.oakshotelsresorts.com/..., The "1861" is
open for breakfast and dinner
Drinking and Partying

Roebuck Bay Hotel, Dampier Tce, 9192 1221, www.roey.com.au
The Roeys is THE pub in town. Good, no frills Aussie pub. This is where the locals hang out.
Tides Bar at the Mangrove Hotel, Carnarvon St, 9192 1303, www.mangrovehotel.com.au
Happy hour 5.30 6.30 pm Fri and Sat and good Sunday session (2 pm).
Matsos, Hamerlsey St, 9193 5811, www.matsos.com.au
Also good Sunday sessions in the courtyard.
Divers Tavern, Cable Beach, 9193 6066 www.diverstavern.com.au
Frequented by travellers and locals. More "civilised" than the Roey.
Plus any of the already mentioned places.
For those without transport there is a Nightrider bus service that replaces the town bus. It
runs half hourly until midnight (and a bit later Fri and Sat).
TOUR OPERATORS
Camel Rides on Cable Beach
There are several operators, offereing the same rides at slightly varying prices:
Morning rides (40 min), afternoon rides, also called pre-sunset rides (30 min) and
sunset rides (1hr). Also ask about their photography service and any extras they throw in.
(Free pearl earings for ladies, camel statues, 2 for 1 rides with car hire etc., it varies.)
Wet season offerings vary also.
Broome Camel Safaris, 0419 916 101, www.broomecamelsafaris.com.au
Morning ($50 adults/$35 children), pre-sunset ($35/$25) and sunset rides ($60/$40).
Red Sun Camels, 9193 7423 or 1800 184 488, www.redsuncamels.com.au
Morning ($55 adults/$35 children), pre-sunset ( $35/$35) and sunset rides($75/$55).
Ships of the Desert, 9192 2958, www.shipsofthedesert.com.au
Morning ($50 adults/$35 children), afternoon ($35/$25) and sunset rides ($70/$55).
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Part III: The Guide
Local Tours
Willie Creek Pearl Farm, 9192 0000, www.williecreekpearls.com.au
Broome's most popular tour, self drive (4WD) or jump on the bus to the farm 40 km north of
Broome. Includes boat trip to see suspended pearl panels. $95 coach tour (children $50,
family 2+2 $240), $55 self drive (children $30, family $140).
Tours usually start 9 am, 10 am, 2 pm, times may change with demand so check first.
They also offer guided tours of Pearl Luggers ($20/child $10/fam. $50) and Broome
Sightseeing ($55/$30/$140). Bookings essential for all tours.
Astro Tours, 0417 949 958, www.astrotours.net
What the name says. The stars of the southern hemisphere explained. Big telescopes,
powerful lasers and lots of fun, educational and entertaining. $80 including pick up (children
$50) or self drive ($65/$35). 2hr shows, start 8pm Mon/Wed and 6pm Fri/Sat.
Kimberley Wild, 9193 7778 or 1300 73 88 70, www.kimberleywild.com.au
Half day tour Broome sights. From 12 6pm. Finish with either sunset nibbles (adults
$90/children$50) or sunset camel ride ($155/$95).
Broome Top Deck Tours, 0427 850 559 or 1800 858 985, www.broometopdecktours.com.au
1.5 hr tours (allow a good 2 hrs to include pick ups and returns) with extensive commentary
on all thingsBroome in a restored, open top, double decker bus. Pick up from Visitor Centre
(3.35 pm), Cable Beach Club (4 pm) as well as Murray Rd. and Sanctuary Rd. resorts
(3.50pm). Adults $40, children $15, family 2+3 $100.
Broome Trike Tours, 0407 575 237, www.broometriketours.com.au
A variety of in depth and informative tours of Broome on a Harley Davidson Trike.
45 min $50 pp, 1.5 hr $99, 2.5 hr champagne sunset $175, 3 hr with lunch/beer/wine/liqueur
tastings $175, 4.5 hr wine and dine with crocodiles approx. $275. See website for many more.
Spirit of Broome, 9193 5025, www.broomehovercraft.com.au
Small hovercraft, daily 1 hr scenic and history flights around Roebuck Bay $111 ($80
children), 1:45 hr flight as previous with added sunset $159/$101, 1:30 hr scenic/historic plus
flying boat wrecks tour $159/$101 (only at very low tide, check website for dates).
Broome Adventure Company, 0419 895 367, www.broomeadventure.com.au
Paddle along the Broome peninsula: 3 hr Turtle Bay Adventure $75, children $60. Includes
courtesy pick up and drop off, cool drinks and some beach snacks. Daily morning and
afternoon trips.
Kimberley Kayak Fishing, 9192 2285, www.kimberleykayakfishing.com.au
Fish or just enjoy the scenery. Morning and afternoon 2 hour tours for 2 to 5 people. $98 pp.
You should also be able to arrange a flexible schedule or more extended tour.
Kujurta Buru, 9162 1622, www.kujurtaburu.com.au
Learn about Aboriginal lifestyles of six groups in the area and how they have changed to fit
into modern day Broome. Half day tours $88 (children $44).
Also offer bus transfers to Aboriginal communities on the Dampier Peninsula for $155. (More
info about the Dampier Peninsula and its communities is in the next chapter.)
Further Afield
Kimberley Dreamtime Adventure Tours, 0447 214 681, www.kdat.com.au
Owned and operated by the Jarlmadangah Burru Aboriginal Community. One and two day
overland safaris by 4WD and camel, focus on eco and Aboriginal culture. Insight into station
and Aboriginal community history, bush foods and medicines, visits a remote indigenous
community, exclusive rock-art, swimming in local waterholes... 1 day tour (operated in
conjunction with Kimberley Wild Expeditions) $299, 2 day tour $492..
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UpTuYu Aboriginal Adventures, Udialla Springs, 0400 878 898, www.uptuyu.com.au

About 200 km from Broome and 100 km from Derby on the Fitzroy River is Nevs
Oongkalkada Wilderness Camp, the start of your personalised Aboriginal guided tour. What
tour? Thats UpTuYu. Extreme outback adventure, tag-along tour, extended camping tour,
luxurious designer tour, whatever it is youre after, Nev will make it happen. Its all UpTuYu!
(Pick up from Broome or Derby can be arranged).
Chomleys Tours, 9192 6195, www.chomleystours.com.au
Variety of 1 day and one 2 day Cape Leveque tour. All tours visit Beagle Bay and
Lombadina. Opportunity to join local Aboriginal guided tours.
Kimberley Wild Expeditions, 9193 7778 or 1300 73 88 70, www.kimberleywild.com.au
Tours to Cape Leveque or the usual gorges, Gibb River Road, Bunge Bungles.
Scenic flights
(Some of the flights below can be combined with on the ground tours or cruises. Check the
individual websites to find out more.)
Broome Aviation, 9192 1369, www.broomeaviation.com
Broome area, Buccaneer Archipelago, Kimberley gorges, Bungles and more.
Broome Helicopter Services, 9192 7488, www.broomehelicopters.com
Range of shorter flights around Broome area and longer adventure flights up the peninsula or
into the gorge country for swimming, exploring or fishing.
KAS Helicopters, 9191 1886, www.kashelicopters.com.au
30 min Cable Beach and Willie Creek scenic flights, heli fishing on request.
Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, 9192 1172, www.horizontalfallsadventures.com.au
Half day tours to Horizontal Falls, incl. seaplane landing and jet boat ride through falls. $745.
As above plus Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm tour $795. Full day bus tour up the peninsula plus
seaplane from One Arm Point to Horizontal Falls, incl. landing and jet boat ride, $795.
Kimberley Extreme, 9192 1172, www.kimberleyextreme.com.au
Half day tours to Horizontal Falls, run mornings and afternoons, incl. seaplane landing and jet
boat ride through falls. $745.
King Leopold Air, 9193 7155, www.kingleopoldair.com.au
Broome area, Cape Leveque, Horizontal Falls, Buccaneer Archipelago, even Mitchell Falls or
Bungles.
Catalina Adventures, 1300 554 026, www.catalinaadventures.com.au
Local heli flights and jet blasts. Horizontal Falls, Cygnet Bay, Cape Leveque tours are coming
soon.
Kimberley Aviation, 0429 112 407, www.kimberleyaviation.com.au
Customise your own Kimberley air safari.
Cruises
INTOMBI Pearling Lugger Experience, 9192 7321, www.broomelugger.com.
WAs oldest lugger, gourmet sunset cruise ($159/$115 children).
Absolute Ocean Charters, 0427 798 155, www.absoluteoceancharters.com.au
Whale watching, dive charters, sunset/night fishing, creek fishing, reef fishing,
(Many of the cruises further below also offer plenty of opportunities for good fishing.)
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Kimberley Discovery Cruises, 1800 185 960 or (03) 9544 2437,

www.kimberleydiscoverycruises.com.au
12 14 day cruise packages to the Buccaneer Archipelago ex Broome or Derby.
The Great Escape Charter Company, 9193 5983, www.greatescape.net.au
Diving trips to the Rowley Shoals, several Kimberley cruises of varying length.
Diversity Charters, 9192 6407 or 0429 926 407, www.diversitycharters.com.au
7 to 10 nights around Broome, 7 night Fishing Frenzy.
Odyssey Expeditions, 1300 683 255, www.odysseyexpeditions.com.au
10 day cruises including Prince Regent River and Mitchell Plateau.
Lady M Cruising, 9534 8823, ladymcruising.com
4, 5, 7 and 12 night Kimberley cruises including boat rider through Horizontal Falls.
Unreel Adventure Safaris, 427 770 825 or 417 180 463, unreeladventures.com
5-7 night charters, fish as much or as little as you like.
Also offering extended cruises along the whole Kimberley coast:
Kimberley Quest, 1300 156 035, www.kimberleyquest.com.au,
North Star Cruises, 9192 1829, www.northstarcruises.com.au
Red Sky Cruises, 0407 739 738, www.redsky.com.au (Who say that 2014 will be their last
year. This time definitely!)
Makaira Game Fishing, 0409 001 828, makairagamefishing.com.au
Fishing
West Kimberley Fishing Tours, 0417 889 479, www.westkimberleyfishingtours.com
Custom tailored half or full day sport fishing tours on the open water or full day barra fishing
on the Fitzroy River or local creeks.
Broome Billfish Charters, 9192 2127 or 0407 682 241 , www.broomebillfish.com
Sentosa Fishing Charters, 9192 8163, www.sentosacharters.com
West Coast Marine Charters, 0400 089 860, www.westcoastcharters.com.au
Fishbroome, 0400 089 860, www.fishbroome.com.au
Freshwater Cove, 9193 6836, www.freshwatercove.com
Coastal fishing camp in the wilderness north of Broome and Derby, access by seaplane or
helicopter.
Don't need a tour, just a boat?

Boab Boat Hire, 1300 002 622, www.boabboathire.com.au
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THE DAMPIER PENINSULA
he Dampier Peninsula north of Broome is a destination for people who love the
bush, camping, fishing and deserted beaches. There used to be nothing much
out here other than wilderness, an amazing coastline and Aboriginal
communities and small outstations that welcome interested visitors, offer
camping/very basic accommodation and are happy to share their knowledge about
bush foods, medicines, traditional hunting and fishing techniques and their special
relationship with their land and the ocean. All of that is still true. What has changed is
that many of the smaller communities have had massive injections of finance and
labour to allow them to add more upmarket accommodation and facilities. Those
fancy safari tents are popping up everywhere! But as I indicated, so far this hasn't
changed the overall character of the region. You can enjoy a few more comforts while
visiting or you can stick to the bush camps. It's up to you.
The best known attractions on the Peninsula are the Northern Beaches, the Aboriginal
communities Lombadina, Beagle Bay and One Arm Point, and the "resorts" at Middle
Lagoon and Cape Leveque. But there are many more lesser known communities and
little homelands, each one more inviting than the next, and more are springing up
every year.
At many of them you will not find the laid on, artificial, romanticised and westernised
Aboriginal experience that you find offered across much of Australia. This is the real
thing. Come here with an open mind, accept that the Bardi people do things very
differently to white people and that in some of the communities they are still very
much learning about all our funny and weird expectations and demands.
At the other end of the scale, Cape Leveque is the northern tip of the Dampier
Peninsula and the location of the famous Kooljaman Eco Resort. Kooljaman offers a
variety of very good facilities, everything from basic camping to upmarket luxury
options, and includes a restaurant.
But despite the above mentioned upgrades elsewhere, many of the best places on the
Peninsula are still very basic, offering accommodation in simple shelters or just
camping, and the more comfortable accommodation is all self contained. The more
self sufficient you are, the better.
Getting There/Need to Know

Allow three days to visit only Kooljaman (two night minimum stay), more to see
more, about at least a week to check out all the well known places, and easily over
two weeks to visit everyone.
The distance from Broome to the tip of the Peninsula is 206 km (allow 2 to 3 hours,
depending on the state of the road). To reach any of the places on the Dampier
Peninsula drive east on the Broome Road. About 10 km out of Broome turn left/north
onto the Cape Leveque Road which traverses the whole peninsula.
You will need a four wheel drive to explore the Dampier Peninsula. Most of the roads
here are a bit rough: unsealed, sandy and sometimes badly corrugated. Taking a
caravan is not a good idea. (Tough off-road vans should be fine.)
If you only want to drive to Kooljaman and back you might be able to take a
conventional vehicle. (Definitely not recommended!!!)
Do, however, enquire about the current state of the road. Road conditions change all
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the time and you may be lucky (i.e. the road was recently graded). Also, the main
Cape Leveque road is getting better all the time, and north of Beagle Bay it is sealed
and in excellent condition.
There is a second road that accesses the peninsula, sometimes called the Bedunburra
Road. This is a private road, meaning you likely have no insurance cover on it and
there are no official road reports for it. The turn off on the highway is 110 km from
Derby/110 km from Broome, near the Nillibubbica rest area and the Bedunburra
homestead. There are no sign posts but it's a big turn off. (Look forKimberley Colour
Stone which is located on the corner.)
If coming from the peninsula, the turn off to is just south of the Beagle Bay turn off.
Turn east. Again, there are no sign posts, but it is the only turn off to the east in the
area, so you can't really go wrong.
The road is a lot more attractive than the main road. It is usually in overall good
condition, nowhere near as corrugated as the main road, but it does have many soft,
sandy sections that require 4WD and some clearance, and it can also have some big
bog holes until late into the dry.
Be aware of the extreme tides that the whole Dampier Peninsula experiences. Best get
a tide chart from the Broome Visitor Centre before you venture north.
To visit the Dampier Peninsula means entering Aboriginal land. Respect the culture
and privacy of the people that live here. That means observe the no entry signs on
private roads! They protect law grounds, burial sites and other areas of traditional
significance. Even if there are no signs you may still be entering private land. So
please stick to the track that takes you to your destination, do not go off exploring.
Bush camping on the peninsula is prohibited except in designated areas and dogs are
not allowed at all, except on the Northern Beaches.
Fuel is available at the Beagle Bay, Lombadina and One Arm Point Communities. .
You can buy fuel cards directly from the communities of One Arm Point or
Djarindjin/Lombadina during office hours. The cards give you 24 hr access at the
bowsers at One Arm Point & Djarindjin Communities (both 18km from Kooljaman).
Emergency fuel cards can sometimes be bought from Kooljaman but they cost extra.
Beagle Bay, Djarindjin/Lombadina and One Arm Point also have small general stores,
which are open on weekdays and stock the basic supplies including meat, fruit,
vegetables etc.
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The Northern Beaches

FREE BUSHCAMPING
14 km along the Cape Leveque Road you find the Manari Road to your left. A series of
beaches, sometimes just called the "Northern Beaches", is located along the Manari
Road, a sandy and often rough track. The beaches are mostly frequented by local
fishermen, though more and more tourists also find their way out here.
You can camp at any of the sites for free for up to three days and dogs on leashes are ok.
The turn-offs to the individual beaches are sign posted:
Willie Creek (t/o at 5 km):

Although the rocky shore and the turquoise water look very inviting, don't even think
about swimming here! The area is crocodile habitat. Willie Creek is popular with
fishermen, the campsite is close to the beach and the Willie Creek pearl farm is only 300
metres further on. If Broome is full, too hectic or too expensive for you, why not base
yourself here for a few days?
Barred Creek (t/o at 14km)

Also crocodile country, but good for catching fish, prawns (in the wet season) and the
occasional mud crab. There is a small track that connects Willie Creek and Barred Creek
and a few more small beaches and camping spots on the way.
Quandong (t/o at 21.5 km)

The most beautiful beach and campsite out of the four main sites. The main camping
area is higher up and has nice views overlooking the beach and the rocky headland. It's a
good place for both beach lovers and fishermen.
James Price Point (t/o at 34.5 km)

There used to be good fishing and good camping, either up on the cliffs, or behind the
dunes under big shady trees.
Of course, this is the site that our Premier in his infinite wisdom had selected for the
hotly debated gas plant, because there is nothing out here, making it a perfect choice.
(Why a pristine and sensitive area is a better choice than one that already has industry
and infrastructure, he did not explain. Maybe destroying the most sensitive and valuable
areas of the Kimberley first will then make it easier to industrialise the lot?)
While the gas plant in the end didn't go ahead, the work that was done and the protests
that ensued while the government was still trying to push it through have changed the
area forever.
Manari Beach is another 17 km north of here and if you press on you eventually reach
the Coulomb Nature Reserve. (Find out first what state that track is in. This is not for
the inexperienced and probably best done in two vehicles.)
There is nothing out here so you have to be totally self sufficient. The first few beaches
are easy enough to access, but 4WD virgins should definitely not venture beyond
Manari Beach, if even that far.
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The Lurujarri Heritage Trail is an 80km long walking trail, following an Aboriginal
song line along this coast. It starts at Minarringy (Coulomb Point) and ends at Entrance
Point, just outside Broome. And now that there is no longer a huge gas plant proposal
looming at James Price Point, for the first time in seven years, you can walk this coastline
past James Price Point. The trail is divided into six sections and each of the six sections
provides an enjoyable days walk. While it is a fairly easy walk you do have to cross
several creeks, which can only be done at low tide.
The Goolarabooloo people offer a fantastic nine day walk every year during the July
holidays. This is NOT a tourism experience, this is a wonderful opportunity to walk with
the guardians of the land, become a real part of the group, partake in their culture, camp
at their traditional campsites, catch your dinner from the ocean and learn about and eat
their food.
See their brochure for more information:
http://www.goolarabooloo.org.au/downloads/Lurujarri_Trail_broshure.pdf
If you visit at other times, get in touch with them anyway as they also offer one day or
longer customised trails throughout the year.
www.goolarabooloo.org.au/lurujarri.html
Banana Well Getaway

Approximately 140 km north of Broome, a good 90 km on the Cape Leveque Road, is
the turn off for Banana Well, a neat and pretty well developed little tourism venture
set in nice bushland with good fishing and crabbing at the local creek. From the camp
it's a half hour drive through bush and marsh to a secluded beach for swimming and
fishing.
Banana Well Getaway, 9192 4040, bananawellgetaway.com.au
About 140 km north of Broome. Disability designed 4BR house ($400), 3 BR house ($300), 2
BR ($130) and 1BR units ($100), room for $90, powered camping (caravan $45, campervan
or tent $35) and unpowered camping (caravan $35, tent or campervan $30). Camp kitchen,
enclosed dining/TV area, laundry, playground, bait, ice, tackle, fish cleaning facilities, fishing
tours, sat phone and internet. Great spring water.
Beagle Bay Community

The turn off to Beagle Bay Community is at 113 km on the Cape Leveque road. From
there it's another 4 km to the community. Originally the community was used as a
home for separated Aboriginal children. Now these very children administer the
community.
The community is mostly known for the Sacred Heart Church. It was built entirely
by hand from 1914 1917 by the Pallotine monks and local Aboriginals with raw
materials from the area, including the beautiful altar decorated with mother-of-pearl
shell. The whole church is decorated with shells and mother-of-pearl. It's in the
window frames and inlaid in the floors, mother-of-pearl everywhere. Well worth a
look.
Contact the office on arrival (follow the signs). The community admission fee is $5.
No need to book or get a permit. You just pay when you arrive at the office. The
community also has a shop and you can get diesel and unleaded fuel.
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Gnylmarung Retreat
Approximately 150 km north of Broome you find Gnylmarung. You should see the
small hand painted sign for the turn off about 12 km north of the Beagle Bay turn off.
After seemingly endless sandy corrugations (in reality about 25 km) you get to the
Beagle Bay. That's the actual bay not the community of the same name.
At first glance it looks like a farm on the beach with a few scattered tin sheds. There
are some shared facilities and a big firewood pile and several great little camping
areas, some overlooking the beach and each with their own bush bbq. Alternatively
you can rent one of the bungalows (no linen, communal kitchen facilities). The guys
here are very welcoming and helpful, the fishing is great and there is even a hire boat.
The visitor numbers are restricted so it doesn't lose that great bush feel.
Not to forget: the shiny solar powered phone standing in the middle of nowhere from
where you can ring any Australian landline for free.
Gnylmarung Retreat, 0429 411 241, gnylmarung.org.au
Approximately 150 km north of Broome. Turn off sign posted, about 25 km off main road.
Bungalows from $90 per night, camping $20pp.
Goombaragin Eco Ventures

This is an Aboriginal owned and family operated, exclusive eco-retreat 160 km north
of Broome. The focus is on sharing traditional Aboriginal culture with the limited
number of visitors. Accommodation is in safari style tents.
Kathleen Cox, the owner, was born in Broome but grew up at the Beagle Bay
Mission. Kathleen and her family moved to Goombaragin in 2003 to start a business
and become independent from government welfare, while at the same time
safeguarding the country according to her traditional responsibilities.
Goombaragin Eco Ventures, 0429 505 347 or 0417 971 012, www.goombaragin.com.au
Turn off is signposted, Goombaragin is 28 km off the main road. Semi-inclusive 3 day
package offering tented accommodation for a maximum of ten people, together with
Aboriginal guided cultural tours. Shorter/longer stays possible. Internet access.
Middle Lagoon, Nature's Hideaway

Middle Lagoon is a family operated, quiet fishing and holiday and retreat 170 km
north of Broome, west of Pender Bay. To get to Middle Lagoon follow the Cape
Leveque Road for 134 km (or 21 km from the Beagle Bay t/o) and turn left. The turnoff is sign posted. The remaining 35 km you drive on a track rather than a road, but
the track can at times be more comfortable to negotiate and a lot less corrugated than
the main road!
Peter and Traci Howard started this venture 1996. It used to be a secret tip back then,
but these days the Broome locals have to share Middle Lagoon with visitors from all
over the world. The facilities have been getting better all the time, and more and more
family members got involved in running the business. But despite all that, Middle
Lagoon is definitely still a quiet bush hideaway.
In fact, it is a little paradise. The inlet is surrounded by a wide beach and protected by
a huge rock bar which makes for great fishing and snorkelling. The water in the
lagoon is shallow, free of stingers and crocodiles, so it's a great place for swimming
and even very young kids can safely play in the water.
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All the facilities are very basic, but what do you really need to be happy?
You can launch a boat of the beach. You can rent a tent site or caravan site (even
powered), basic thatched beach shelters or breezy cabins made from wood and fly
screen (with power, fridge and fan). There is freshwater, bathrooms with showers and
laundry facilities and a fish cleaning station. Fires are allowed. You can buy bait, ice
and fire wood. ($5 for as much as you can carry in the supplied bin. Fire wood that is,
not bait.) There's even a public phone.
The beach shelters are my favourite accommodation, because you really live right on
the beach. (Which has disadvantages for the owners of the place. A cyclone has
washed away a couple of the shelters.) But the cabins and camping sites are great, too,
perched on top of the dunes and overlooking the reefs and the ocean.
Quite a few locals do drag their standard caravans out here and set them up on top of
the cliffs overlooking the lagoon. There is plenty of space for vans but the road in can
be a bit rough, so if you plan to tow get current information on it!
Update: Sadly, Peter Howard passed away in December 2010.
Nature's Hideaway at Middle Lagoon, Ph or Fax 9192 4002, www.middlelagoon.com.au
Prices start at $30 for an unpowered campsite, powered campsite $40, a beach shelter is $60
and a cabin $140 (up to 4 people). There is one cabin with an ensuite ($240). Day visitors pay
a $10 entry fee, no charge for overnight guests. Operating year round.
Whalesong Cafe and Campground at Munget

Munget is a small Aboriginal Homeland overlooking the southern end of Pender Bay.
Jacinta Monck and Lenny O'Meara with their four young children are the only
permanent residents here. Over the last years Lennie and Jacinta have built up a lovely
little tourism venture here, the perfect secret little hideaway. In 2006 they started out
with seven camels, offering a combined camel ride/cultural tour to tourists who stayed
at nearby Middle Lagoon.
They have since added a campground with a funky outdoor bathroom, one little cabin
and the Whalesong Cafe. The cafe serves excellent food: gourmet pizzas and
restaurant style meals, really good coffee and cappucinos, juices, salads... Fruit and
vegetables are super fresh, coming straight from their own gardens.
There is plenty to do here: mud crab tours, billabong tours, beach picnics, kayak
hire... Or just enjoy the bush and ocean doing your own thing. (The camels,
unfortunately, are gone.)
The campground has room for only about half a dozen camps. Lennie and Jacinta are
great hosts and the many lovely little touches around the place add to the intimate
feel. I hope it stays that way!
To get there drive as you would to Middle Lagoon. Look for a turn off to the right,
about 15 km after leaving the main Cape Leveque Road, and follow the signs. (Take
care not to confuse access to the Whalesong Cafe with the road to the Two Moons
Research Base.)
Whalesong Cafe and Campground, 9192 4000, open Jul-Sep
Camping $20 pp per night. And internet reception!
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Mercedes Cove
Mercedes Cove is an exclusive bush retreat for only a few guests at a time. It is
located near Middle Lagoon, offering the same unspoilt beaches, clean waters for
swimming or fishing, and peace and tranquillity. To get there drive towards Middle
Lagoon. The turn off for Mercedes Cove is 3 km before you reach Middle Lagoon.
Mercedes Cove, 9192 4687, www.mercedescove.com.au
Accommodation in two self contained cabins, the Guest House and the Open Deck. Both
sleep up to 6 people. $300 per night for four. $35 for each extra person. Self contained eco
tents for up to four people at $150 per night. Bookings essential.
Kelk Creek
And another low key, exclusive eco bush retreat. Kelk Creek is located about 155 km
north of Broome and just 3 km of the main road, at Djugaragyn. (They were
previously known as Djugarargyn Bush Retreat and Cultural Walks).
Deborah and Steve also sell many of their own products, including their own range of
natural body products and bush tucker products. You will get to sample the body
products as they supply guest soaps, shampoos and conditioner (which you need to
use to comply with the eco standards, the greywater is harvested). You can also join
into making these products. (This a paid experience/tour.). For a sample of bush
tucker products have some billy tea around the fire, it comes with Steve's famous
damper and Deb's bush fruit jams.
Kelk Creek, 9192 4377, www.kelkcreek.com.au
Accommodation in upmarket eco-safari tents (i.e. real bed, linen, solar powered lighting and
even a fridge) includes breakfast and dinner. Light lunch is included in bushwalk tours.
Minimum stay two nights.
Lombadina
About 180 km along the Cape Leveque Road is the turn-off to Lombadina, a large
community located only a few kilometres off the main road.
Lombadina offers accommodation and tours. It is one of only a few communities on
the peninsula that have been welcoming visitors for many years. (Many others have
only recently started to tentatively venture into the tourism business).
Access to the community costs $10 per vehicle.
Accommodation is in basic but comfortable units or in backpacker type dorms. The
community boasts a bakery (the only real bread on the peninsula, though only white,
available Mon/Wed/Fri), a crafts gallery that sells locally produced art and a proper
shop for basic supplies. Everybody here works, nobody takes government handouts.
Then there is the old mission church building, an ingenious design and construction,
made from bush timbers and corrugated iron sheets. And, behind the community
grounds, is the most stunning beach you can imagine.
Lombadina offers many different tours, boat fishing, shore fishing and mudcrabbing
and bush walking tours where you can learn about the Bardi country and their
heritage.
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If you have visited any Aboriginal communities in the NT or the north west you'll be
amazed at these communities and the people. If only it could be like this everywhere.
Lombadina Community, 9192 4936, www.lombadina.com
Single rooms $100 per night, lodge for 2 people $170 per night, self contained cabin or deluxe
apartment for 4 people $220 and $280 a night resp. Bush tucker tours, scenic tours, crabbing,
fishing and whale watching tours.
$10 per vehicle to access the community.
Chile Creek
The Chile Creek community is 7 km from Lombadina, not quite 200 km from
Broome, and the last section of the track is very soft and sandy. The tiny, neat
community offers wonderful basic camping in a spacious campground away from the
community buildings (big bathrooms with solar hot showers, camp kitchen, fire
places).
Since 2010 Chile Creek also caters to the discerning visitor who expects to see the
real Kimberley in style: there are five brand new safari tents with queen sized and
bunk beds (for whole families) and ensuites, linnen and cooking utensils are supplied,
as well as a gas bbq for cooking on the covered veranda. The lovely bush style
shelters have been turned into more upmarket bungalows with queen sized beds and
shared bathroom and cooking facilities.
Chile Creek offers all the usual activities that make up the peninsula lifestyle...
Swimming, snorkelling, fishing, mudcrabbing, and of course bush walking.
The beach is snow white, endless, and firm enough to drive on for many kilometres.
Absolutely amazing. You reach it via a very narrow and very soft track (you will need
low range gears and drop your tyre pressures). There could be crocodiles in the creek
mouth to the right/north, so for swimming better head in the opposite direction!
If you could not get into Kooljaman, which is often enough full during the main
season, this is also a good place to use as a base instead and do day trips to Kooljaman
and One Arm Point. (In fact, during peak season I'd rather stay here anyway.)
Update: Roma has lost her mother and is finding it hard to keep everything running
on her own.
Chile Creek, 9192 4141, www.chilecreek.com
Bushcamping, safari tents and, bungalows. (At the time of writing Roma had not decided on
prices and offerings for the season.)
Djoodoon Bully's Camp

Just north of the Lombadina turn off is the turn off to Mudnunn and Djoodoon.
Follow the main track for about 8 km to a Y-junction.
To your right is the small community Mudnunn. The HEMA map I recommend (p.
55) identifies Mudnunn as a good place to camp to access the beautiful beaches in the
area, but really, there is not much there.
Follow the left track instead and after another kilometre you get to Bully's Camp at
Djoodoon. Bully is gone and the place is now managed by Geoff, but the name
remains.
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At this stage this is still a real insider tip. The camp has been here since 1993, but it's
one of those I could tell you but then I'd have to kill you locations that everyone has
kept quiet about. Geoff would love to see that change and have a few more visitors, so
I am comfortable telling you about it (even if the long term regulars will likely not be
too happy about having to share their hideaway).
Note: I added this listing before the start of the 2010 season, so it's not quite as secret
any more!
What do you get here? A huge, spacious, grassy campground ($15 pp), behind the
dune, and on top of it three beach shelters to rent ($20 pp) and one big communal
bush style shelter, overlooking an amazing beach of beautiful Signet Bay.
The large ablution block did not look too inviting (it's an old transportable), didn't
look any better on the next visit, and apparently its condition has not miraculously
improved since. But it was clean and the water pressure was good. As you will find
out, the latter can be a problem in some places.
The fishing is absolutely fantabulous and there are oysters and crabs as well. If you
are not into fishing you can swim (check with Geoff about crocs first!), walk or laze
on the beaches, or chat to Geoff about the unique bird and other wildlife in the area,
about life on the peninsula, or about anything else. It's a very, very pretty and laid
back place, a bit like Middle Lagoon maybe, just better and with fewer people.
Bully's Camp at Djoodoon, 9192 4359
Camping $15pp, bush shelters $20pp
Kooljaman Resort at Cape Leveque

Above everything else Cape Leveque is famous for its beaches and justifiably so.
Kilometres and kilometres of powdery white sand, interspersed with rocky sections
and dotted with treasures the tide left behind. Watch the sun rise out of the ocean,
from your bed if you like, and on the other side watch it melt back into the ocean at
night.
Swim in the crystal clear, turquoise waters, which is free of both crocodiles and
jellyfish, all year round.
Here's an interesting update on crocodiles at Cape Leveque, submitted by a reader:
www.kimberleyaustralia.com/crocodiles-at-cape-leveque.html
Between July and October you can view migrating humpback whales, which pass in
viewing distance from the beaches. You can snorkel at the rocks between the beaches,
or put your boat in the water and go fishing. The fishing is excellent.
Join the Aboriginal owners of the land and catch some delicious mud crabs, take a
lesson in spear fishing or learn about traditional bushfoods and medicine. If you are a
bit adventurous and like exploring go down to Hunter Creek. But beware of
crocodiles at the creek. And don't get bogged here, the sand is very soft.
Update: these days Hunter Creek is only accessible via tour with an indigenous
guide.
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Even my mate Henry, legendary fisherman and old bush warrior, got bogged here. It
was not for lack of skills. His old Landcruiser had a problem and would not stay in four
wheel drive mode. He did get help and a tow. A tow from a Pajero! That really hurt, he
reckons...
Join a fishing tour or a boat tour if you don't have a boat or don't know enough about
fishing to go on your own. Scenic flights to the Buccaneer Archipelago are also
available.
Then you can camp right on the beach and have a fire at night to cook the day's catch.
They even supply the fire wood.
For a short break from beach life go for a stroll along the board walk that leads over
the top of the hills, past the lighthouse, from one side of Cape Leveque to the other.
Learn a bit about the ecology, the plants and animals of the Peninsula and about how
the Aboriginals use them. There are also very interesting stories and old letters and
newspaper articles, from and about the previous Cape Leveque lighthouse keepers.
What a life they must have had, so far away from everything. Back then there was of
course no tourism...
Getting There
The 204 km drive from Broome can take about three hours. Only the first half of the
Cape Leveque Road is unsealed. Even that section is a lot better these days than it was
years ago, but because of the heavy use it still gets horribly corrugated. Once you
reach the Aboriginal owned country further north the road is sealed and excellent.
There is also the Bedunburra back road (t/o 110 km west of Derby/110 km east of
Broome). It is not a gazetted road, so use at own risk (no insurance cover!). See page
93 for details.
Cape Leveque has a small airport and you can book fly-in day tours or longer stays
from Broome or Derby. Road transfers and 4WD tours are also available. (See the
tour operator listings for Broome and Derby). Drive-in day visitors have to pay a $10
admission fee.
During the wet season (November-April) the road may get closed due to wet
conditions.
Accommodation
Kooljaman Resort is jointly owned by the Cape Leveque Aboriginal communities One
Arm Point and Djarindjin. Every member of the community is a shareholder in the
resort and all the profits go back into those Aboriginal communities.
They have a lot of conservation projects going on, like tree planting or building board
walks to protect the dunes. The construction of the camp itself also followed low
impact environmental guidelines.
There is a wide range of accommodation. At the luxury end are the safari tents,
sophisticated structures built into the steep hillside, so the verandas are on high stilts
and overlook the deserted beaches and the ocean. They are serviced and have a little
kitchen and ensuite.
At the other end of the scale are the palm frond thatched beach shelters. (I assure you,
after spending a few nights there, as far as I'm concerned the rich people can have
their safari tents, thanks.)
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Also available: units, log cabins and a campground. If camping is all you can afford,
but you don't have any camping equipment, you can rent one of their dome tents.
These are pretty big, solid structures and have a little wooden veranda.
The only drawback is that because they are powered, they are all pretty close together
(Frankly, the whole campground does not appeal much to me. It's small, fills up
quickly, shade is limited and so is green grass. The location leaves to be desired, too.
Grab a beach shelter if you can.)
Kooljaman has a basic store and a restaurant that offers dine in and take-away meals,
in case you didn't catch anything.
Book VERY early for the main season, Kooljaman fills up quickly.
Kooljaman, 9192 4970, www.kooljaman.com.au
Restaurant open for dinner Apr - mid Oct, take-away lunches available between 12-1pm.
Unit $115, log cabin from $145 (with ensuite $170), safari tent $275, deluxe safari tent $330,
all prices twin share, additional adult $25, child $10. Beach shelter $75 for 2, additional adult
$19, child $10, max 4 occupants; on-site tent $65, max 2 people. Powered camping $43 for 1
or 2 people, unpowered $38, extra person $19, $10 for children.
The minimum stay is two nights! No caravans! Small camper trailers and campervans are
fine.
Power is limited! No air-con usage. You can also leave the hair dryer, toaster and microwave
at home.
Also noteworthy: at the reception you can get a Telstra NextG mobile signal.
TIP: if you wanted to visit Cape Leveque but left it too late, and if you are camping and
reasonably self sufficient, visit Ardyaloon/One Arm Point instead and camp at
Gambanan (more info below), or stay further south at Lombadina, Chile Creek, or even
at Bully's Camp at Djoodoon. Though not free, those are all good alternatives during the
peak season for people who dislike busy or overly commercial tourism ventures.
Kooljaman is a beautiful place any day, but it's at its best in the off or shoulder season.
And now there is of course also the alternative of the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm for those
who want to do it in style!
Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm

Just after the Kooljaman turn off you find the clearly signposted turn off to the also
spectacularly located Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm on your right. This family owned and
operated venture has been going for over 60 years. The Brown family were actually
the first farm to grow cultured pearls in Australia. The farm is also home to the
Kimberley Marine Research Station, the brainchild of James Brown, a third
generation pearl farmer with a degree in marine biology.
The tourism side is a new addition to their business. It includes a restaurant/bistro
(which also offers bbq packs or take-to-your-safari-tent meals for residents), a
showroom, tours of the farm by land and sea, various boat tours in the region on their
fleet of vessels, and for those who want to extend their stay stylish safari tents with
ensuite bathrooms or the renovated Pearler's Cottages.(with air-conditioned bedrooms,
no less!) Really nice spot and lovely hosts.
Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, 9192 4283, cygnetbaypearls.com.au
Safari tents from $180, pearler's cottage from $350. Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm Tour (1 hr, $27
adults, $10 children), Thousand Island Tour (half day, $240/$90), Pearl Farm Patrol Tour (2
hrs $90/$45, land and water), Kimberley Sunset Sail (4 hrs $190),
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Ardyaloon (One Arm Point)

Ardyaloon community is located at the very end of the Cape Leveque road. The 400
people community - a main population centre for Bardi and Jawi - was established
when the mission on Sunday Island closed and the residents moved to the mainland.
Ardyaloon also administers a couple of outstations.
When you first arrive please report to the office/admin building. (Follow the road to
the roundabout and turn left and the office is to your right.) The entry fee is $10 pp. A
visit here is well worth it. The people are great, proud of their saltwater heritage and
they gladly share their knowledge and sea skills (guided tours). During the season you
can also tour the community based aquaculture hatchery breeding juvenile trochus
shells and other species of commercial value, a project that is considered a huge
success. There are also a couple of nice beaches and a boat ramp.
Accommodation is not available, but the Gambanan campground, run by a well
known Bardi family, is only 1.5 km back from here. If you are self sufficient and like
quiet bush settings, then it's a wonderful alternative during the main season when
Cape Leveque gets too busy.
Gambanan is a small bush campground on top of a rocky section of the coast. There is
no beach but swimming is possible, and at low tide you can walk on the exposed reef.
There is a water tap in the campground and there is also a new shower/toilet block.
Apparently hot water for the showers is coming, too.
There is also an office where you are supposed to check in, but it's rarely attended.
Just pick your site, the owners will come around eventually (everything here runs on
Bardi time) and collect the fee. (How much that will be they will decide once the
season gets under way.)
If interested, you can also get the locals to take you out boating through the islands to
sight see and fish. It's a bit pricey, but getting a few people together reduces the costs.
One Arm Point Community, 9192 4936, ardyoap2@westnet.com.au
Other Aboriginal Communities and Outstations

Bells Point, Djarindjin, Maddarr, La Djardarr Bay... It's impossible to remember all
those names.
The Broome Visitor Centre publishes a little guide called the Dampier Peninsula
Travellers Guide. It has all the contact details for the different communities and a
short description of what you can find there. Some offer accommodation, some tours,
some have a store and fuel and some have only a camp ground.
With most of them you need to arrange your visit beforehand (this does not apply to
those I cover in the guide, only to some of the names above) and you may even need
special permissions, so contact the Broome Visitor Centre for more information.
For anybody who is interested in Aboriginal culture, traditional living, fishing and
hunting techniques, bush foods etc. the Peninsula is a great place to learn more and
share in the lifestyle of the Bardi people.
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DERBY
erby (pop. 4,500) is located on the edge of the King Sound north-east of
Broome, just south of the mouth of the Fitzroy River and only just above the
high tide mark. And high tides they are!
Derby's claim to fame is having the highest tides of any Australian port. Eleven
metres of tidal difference means there is an enormous amount of water rushing in or
out every six hours. Add to that the silty outflow of the Fitzroy River and you get
muddy waters.
Even though you are only about 220 km from Broome, the Derby area looks totally
different. Mudflats, mangrove swamps ... No, Derby is not your typical tropical
holiday destination. It is, however, an honest, warm and welcoming place, one that I
always enjoy visiting.
Most tourists visit Derby as the starting or end point of their Gibb River Road trip.
Even travellers who don't intend to drive the whole length of the Gibb River Road
often stop over in Derby. They then travel along the first, well maintained section of
the Gibb River Road before turning right, cutting across to the highway and visiting
the Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek national parks on the way.
Another draw card is the Buccaneer Archipelago, a group of 800 to 1000 of some of
the most remote islands in the world. This is also where the Horizontal Waterfalls are
located, a phenomenon created by the huge tides rushing through narrow gaps
between islands.
There is enough to see and do here to justify spending a full day in Derby, but unless
they go on some flight, island cruise or tour (organised or self guided tours in the
surrounding areas are available) most tourists see no reason to stay any longer.
GETTING THERE
Derby is 220 km north east of Broome (via Great Northern and Derby Highway).
Derby is 258 km west of Fitzroy Crossing. (217 km to the Derby/Broome
intersection, Derby is located 41 km north of it.)
Flights from Derby connect to Qantas, Virgin Blue and Airnorth services in Broome
or Kununurra. If you need flight information contact the Derby Visitor Centre.
Derby is part of the Greyhound Broome/Darwin service.
Derby Bus Service, 9193 1550, www.derbybus.com.au
Connects Derby and Broome Mon/Wed/Fri. $50 one way, children $40.
Derby Taxi Service, www.derbytaxiservice.com.au
Operates an airport and Greyhound terminal shuttle. Call 9193 2568 or 0418 666049.
The taxi service has different phone no.!
For a taxi call 131 008 when in Derby, 08 9191 1434 or 0418 666005 from out of town.
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History
The first Europeans to set eyes on this area were the crew of the Cygnet which sailed
around the King Sound area for three months in 1688 (and anchored in what is now
called Cygnet Bay). Captain Read had the command, but William Dampier published A
New Voyage Round the World, so Dampier ended up being falsely credited with leading
the expedition.
Dampiers observations about the Aborigines and about the poor quality of Western
Australia ensured that for the next century nobody else took any interest in the area.
Phillip Parker King (explored the coasts of WA and the NT from 1818 to 1822) and
George Gray and John Stokes (explored the eastern coast of King Sound in 1837) also
failed to generate further interest in the region.
In 1879 Alexander Forrest visited the area. His glowing reports were clearly
exaggerated. They did attract many pastoralists, but the isolation and harsh conditions
made life in the area almost unbearable.
In 1880 a landing port was created at Derby, not exactly an ideal port. The narrow
channels off the islands of the Buccaneer are swept by vicious rips and whirlpools and
the tidal variations are up to 11.3 metres. So ships in harbour sat dry at low tide and
goods had to be left on the mud flats to be ferried to and from the ships anchored off the
shore.
In 1883 the township of Derby was proclaimed. People now had their own port and
police protection. Also in late August of 1883 a shipment of wool, waiting on the
mudflats for a ship, was swept away by the tidal wave caused by the Krakatau volcanic
explosion in Indonesia.
This led to the building of the first jetty 1885. The timing could not have been better.
That year Charlie Hall discovered gold at Halls Creek. Miners and prospectors poured
into the port on their way to the goldfields and the ships left Derby loaded with gold,
pearl shells and wool. The goldrush was short and by the 1890s the port was used only
for live cattle and sheep exports.
It was also during this time that major problems broke out between the local Aborigines
and the pastoralists. The leader of the local Aborigines, a true hero and remarkable
guerrilla fighter, was Jandamarra. He became known to the pastoralists and the police
as Pigeon. His important story is covered in a separate box below. Pigeon was
eventually cornered and shot in 1897 at Tunnel Creek.
1951 iron ore mining commenced at Cockatoo Island and revitalised the town, so that by
1964 there was sufficient optimism to build the new jetty.
After the 1970s the port slowly declined. The wharf closed in 1980, then reopened in
1997 to service the lead/zinc mines.
The continuing mining and resources boom, the pastoral industry, administration and
tourism are the mainstays of Derbys economy today.
GETTING AROUND
BP Colac, Loch St, 9191 1256, bpderbycolac@westnet.com.au
2WD and 4WD vehicles available for hire.
Derby Taxi Service, 9191 1434, www.derbytaxiservice.com.au
In Derby call 131 008, from out of town 9191 1434 or 0418 666005
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Derby calls itself the "Home of the Boab Tree". Boabs are used as street trees and
give the town a special character.
Considering its remote location the town is surprisingly big. It's also very spread out,
which makes it seem even bigger than the population of about 4500 would suggest.
The town centre is hard to identify. When you reach Derby and just keep driving you
eventually reach the other end of town, where the Tourism Information (2 Clarendon
St, 1800 621 426), the post office, police station etc. are located. That part is considered
the centre. Loch Street looks like the main street, however, locals refer to Clarendon
Street as the main street.
Follow the main street, sorry, follow Loch Street and eventually you get to the Derby
Wharf, the famous jetty where you can watch the 11 metre tides rushing in and out of
the King Sound. It's also the place to be for the sunset. Every evening a stream of
four wheel drives arrives here to claim a spot along the rail. Tourists unfold their
camping chairs, set up their eskies and bait their handlines, joining the locals in what's
probably been a ritual since the jetty was built in 1885. I've never seen anybody catch
a fish here, but that doesn't matter. It's the place to be for sunset.
(Update: A reader in 2009 sent me a photo of a 18 20 pound mulloway caught of
that very jetty, and I had another report of a big mulloway caught in 2010. So never
say never!)
Since most people never catch anything the Wharf Restaurant and Take Away
The Catch is doing good business. It's popular, so get your order in early or you'll
be waiting for a long time.(It's best to ring ahead, even for take away: 9191 1195 for
restaurant and cafe, 9191 2664 for take away.)
Tip: for people relying on eskies the shop sometimes sells massive ice blocks in 10L
plastic ice cream containers. Not only does such a block last forever, being in a
container it also doesn't melt all through your eski.
If you are interested in Derby's history there are a few places to stop at: the
Centenary Pavilion, the Wharfingers House Museum, the Old Derby Gaol and the
Pioneer Cemetery. The Derby Visitor Centre has information on two Heritage
Walks that take in all the historical attractions.
The Kimberley School Of The Air offers a free tour showing how children in remote
communities and cattle stations are distance taught. Originally the classes were
conducted via two way radio, but today computers have replaced the old radios.
Derby is also the Kimberley base for the Royal Flying Doctor Service. Their base
can be visited, too. (The Visitor Centre has the opening times).
By the way, Derby also has the nicest, biggest and best equipped hospital in the
Kimberley. If you want to get sick do it now.
Other places to ask the Visitor Centre about are the wetlands and the observation
tower there (excellent bird watching), the botanical gardens and the Joonjoo Botanical
Trail.
If you are interested in Aboriginal art, Warrwa Arts, Craft & Picture Framers can
be found at the Karmulinunga Aboriginal Community on the north-edge of town,
behind the football oval and Nunga Designs on Stanley St.
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SURROUNDING AREAS
Seven kilometres out of town is the site of the Boab Prison Tree, a 1500 year old
hollow boab tree that was used as an overnight lockup for prisoners. The tree is a
registered Aboriginal site and fenced off.
Nearby is Myall's Bore and Cattle Trough: in 1912 a man called Myall sank a bore
to a depth of 322 metres. The daily flow of water was 315 000 litres. (The bore was
capped in 1980.) The huge 120 metre cattle trough next to it was built in 1920 and
could water 500 -1000 head of cattle could at a time!
Also in the area is Frosty's Pool, a small pool used for bathing by troops stationed in
the area during WWII.
The Mowanjum Art & Culture Centre is at the Mowanjum Aboriginal
community.You find it south of the Gibb River Road, The signposted turn off is only
about 5 km from the start of the Gibb. It showcases authentic art from the community
and out-stations. Wandjina and Gyorn-Gyorn images predominate, inspired by the
sacred rock art sites of the North Kimberley. Open 7 days, 9am to 5pm from April mid October, Mon-Fri from mid October - March, or by appointment. 9191 1008
The Old Derby Leprosarium, now known as Bungarun, is about only a few
kilometres further, to the north of the Gibb River Road. from Derby on the Bungarun
Road. This is the last remaining Leprosarium in Australia. It operated from 1936
1986 and is now a museum. Open 10am - 2pm Mon, Wed, Sat, access $7 pp.
And last but not least there is the Pigeon Heritage Trail. The self drive trail (info
from the Visitor Centre) follows the story of Jandamarra, a local Aboriginal freedom
fighter or "outlaw" (depending on who you ask), who became known to the public and
the police as Pigeon.
The Story of Jandamarra

The story begins on 31 October 1894, with Pigeon shooting Police Constable
Richardson. Richardson had used Pigeon to track and round up 16 Aborigines accused
of stealing and killing stock. What he didn't realise was that those Aborigines were
members of Pigeons own family.
These prisoners told Pigeon that stockmen had been seen with over 500 head of cattle in
the vicinity of Windjana Gorge. They convinced Pigeon that if he didn't set them free
their lands would be overrun by white pastoralists. Nobody knows what exactly
happened, but we can assume that Pigeon agreed that they must take a stand against the
white invaders. And Pigeon shot Richardson.
He freed the prisoners and, with Pigeon as their new leader, the group headed off to
successfully attack the stockmen at Windjana Gorge. The two head stockmen were
killed. Another stockman some kilometres away heard the shots and so the news got
through to the police at Derby.
The police sent reinforcements, a battle followed and Pigeon was shot. He escaped with
the help of some Aboriginal women.
Over the next six months police retaliated by indiscriminately killing hundreds of
Aborigines, most of whom had no connection with Pigeon other than the same colour of
skin.
For two years Pigeon hid in the Tunnel Creek cave, south of Windjana Gorge. Police
were convinced he was dead, but in early 1896 he raided the Lillimooloora Police
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Station, stealing a rifle and ammunition. This remarkable return to life ensured that
Pigeon became legend.
For the next few months Pigeon taunted the police and pastoralists. He was a highly
skilled bushman. His previous contact with the police and knowledge of their methods
allowed him to easily outwit them. He was finally cornered in 1897 and killed near his
hideout at Tunnel Creek.
The drive begins in Derby, taking in the Old Goal and the Pioneer Cemetery. It
follows the places connected with Pigeon's operations and eventually takes the
traveller to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, where Pigeon was shot in 1897.
Ask the Visitor Centre for the full brochure.

Derby Visitor Centre
Location: 2 Clarendon Street
Open: (Jun-Aug) Mon-Fri: 8.30am 5pm, Sat/Sun/Public Holidays: 9am - 4pm
(Apr/May/Sep) Mon-Fri: 8.30am 4.30pm, Sat/Sun/Public Holidays: 9am 1pm
(Oct-Mar) Mon-Fri: 8.30am 4.30pm, Sat: 9.am 12noon, Sun closed
Ph: 9191 1426 or freecall 1800 621 426 (within Australia), Fax: 9191 1609
www.derbytourism.com.au, info@derbytourism.com.au
Internet, Derby Telecentre, Clarendon St, 9193 1272
Post Office, Loch St, 9191 1350
Derby Hospital, Clarendon St, 9193 3333
ACCOMMODATION
The rates quoted below are for two people, for the most basic rooms available, at peak
season.
King Sound Resort Hotel, Loch St, 9193 1044, kingsoundresort.com.au
Bistro, bar, beer garden and pool in tropical setting. Rooms from $180.
Derby Boab Inn, Loch St, 9191 1044, www.derbyboabinn.com
Breakfast, lunch and dinner menu, bar, beer garden, pool, bottle shop. Simple, newly
refurbished and well looked after rooms from $180.
B&B
Desert Rose B & B, 4 Marmion St, 9193 2813
Quality queen size rooms with en-suites, lead light windows depicting Kimberley
scenes, rooms have veranda/balcony outdoor area, swimming pool. Cooked meals can
also be arranged. From $250.
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Self Contained
Kimberley Cottages, Windjana Rd, 9191 1114, www.kimberleycottages.com.au
Ten minutes from town centre, fully self contained a/c rooms and 2 or 3 bedroom units in
wilderness setting. Dogs allowed. Rooms from $160.

Spinifex Hotel, Clarendon St, 9191 1233, spinifexhotel@westnet.com.au
Most central location, budget accommodation. This is a typical Aussie pub, with counter
meals, TAB, live music, pool tables. Rooms around $100, self contained suites $275.
Derby Lodge, 15 Clarendon St, 9193 2924, www.derbylodge.com.au
Basic rooms, twin $140 (shared facilities) or $160 (ensuite), self contained apartment $190.
West Kimberley Lodge and Caravan Park, Sutherland St, 9191 1031,
www.westkimberleylodge.com.au
At the edge of town, small rooms with shared facilities $100, with ensuite $175, campground
sites from $38 for two. Cheaper rates with longer stays. No children. Accepts well behaved
dogs.
Camping
Kimberley Entrance Caravan Park, Rowan St, 9193 1055,
www.kimberleyentrancecaravanpark.com
Good location, reasonably close to centre while bordering on bushland/mudflats. Grassy with
lots of shade, large and good facilities, reasonable prices. Allows dogs and also offers caravan
storage.
Also check out Birdwood Downs Station on the Gibb River Road. (part IV, p. 176)
Hamlet Grove Caravan Storage, 4a Manning Rd, 0408 911460 , storage only.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
Nearly 60 km south of Derby and about 160 km from Broome you may be able to find
some suitable sites by driving into the Willare Bridge Rest Area, just south of Willare
Bridge, and following the tracks along the river. This area is only suitable for 4WDs.
There is not enough room for any trailers.
A much better option is Tumblegoodiron, an excellent camping and fishing location on
the banks of the Fitzroy River. After passing the Willare Bridge Rest Area, take the next
turn off to the west (it's only a few km further) and drive through a gate. You are now on
private property, Yeeda Station. After about 3 km you get to a T-junction. Turn left and
after another 3 km you get to the camping area. You can find many suitable sites spread
out along river here. Launching boats is possible but watch out for crocodiles. This is an
official bush camping area and you can stay for up to 3 days. (You know the fishing is
good because the place fills up with locals on weekends, especially long weekends.)
The Boab Rest Area on the highway to Fitzroy Crossing makes a good picnic stop.
Worth stopping at to have a look at the massive boab in the middle of it, even if you
dont want to camp here.
The Lake is on the highway between Derby (163 km) and Fitzroy Crossing (93 km).
The turn off is north of the highway and easily missed, but you can see the water from
the road, so if you keep an eye out for that you should be able to slow down in time.
(You are too far if you get to Mt Wynne Creek. Go back 1.5 km and try again. If you
come from Fitzroy it's easy, look for the turn 1.5 km after crossing Wynne Creek)
Turn off and drive through the gate. It's a lovely area with nice camping sites all around
the little lake and the bird life here is fantastic. The place has become quite popular with
109
the caravan crowd and these days it gets a bit busy.

This is private station land so please behave. Dont use detergents near the water, dont
litter etc.
The nearby Ellendale Rest Area has some facilities and toilets but is nowhere near as
nice an overnight stop.
Other
Willare Bridge, Great Northern Highway, 9191 4775
165 km east of Broome, 55 km south of Derby, roadhouse, motel rooms and caravan park,
600 m from good fishing spots on Fitzroy River, birdwatching trail on riverbank.
EATING OUT
The Catch Restaurant and Caf, at the jetty, 9191 1195 (Take away: 9191 2664)
2.5 km out of town, this used to be called the "Wharf Restaurant and Take Away", and then
"The Point". A quaint little shed with a great deck overlooking the jetty. (Usually) excellent
seafood, relaxed atmosphere, great sunsets, BYO and no corkage charge.
Lalgardi Restaurant, Loch St, 9191 1044, www.derbyboabinn.com
Part of the Derby Boab Inn. Modern Australian fare and Roast Nights on Sunday, as it should
be. Breakfast 7am to 9am, morning tea 9am to 11am, lunch and dinner, open 7 days/wk..
Oasis Restaurant, Loch St, 9193 1044, www.kingsoundresort.com.au
The bistro at the King Sound Resort. Seafood and roast carvery on Sundays, buffet style
meals as well as a la carte on other days, bistro open 7 days/wk..
Spinifex Hotel, Clarendon St, 9191 1233, info@spinifexhotel.com.au
Ttypical Aussie pub offering counter meals..
Lwoys Chinese Restaurant, Cnr Elder/Loch St, 9191 1554
Chinese and fresh seafood, eat in or take away. Take away also open for lunch on weekdays.
For a local dinner experience try the Derby Sportsman's Club (Ashley St, 9191 1126) on
Friday nights.
Windmill Cafe, Hardman Rd, 9191 2363
Right next to Derby's only bank (ANZ), sit down and take away food, cakes and pastries.
TOUR OPERATORS
The list below is not meant to be comprehensive but to give you an idea just how
much is available.
Visit the Derby Visitor Centre or see their website to find more tours or to make a
booking: www.derbytourism.com.au/tours-and-activities
Ground Based Tours

Derby Bus Service, 9193 1550, www.derbybus.com.au
Windjana Gorge/Tunnel Creek tours ($150adults/$75 children, incudes lunch and
refeshments, departs every other day Jun-Aug and Tue/Thu/Sun during Apr/May and
Sep/Oct, departs Sundays only during off season) and customised West Kimberley tours
(from $200 pp per day). Yes, this is the company that runs the Derby bus. No, they don't use
the bus for the longer tours, but a Toyota 4WD Landcruiser.
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Bushtrack Safaris, 9191 1547, www.bushtracksafaris.com.au

Truly off the beaten track tours into very remote areas, along the Munja Track to Bachsten
Falls and the Walcott Inlet. Available as fully catered safari or self drive tagalong tours.
UpTuYu Aboriginal Adventures, Udialla Springs, 0400 878 898, www.uptuyu.com.au
About 200 km from Broome and 100 km from Derby on the Fitzroy River is Nevs
Oongkalkada Wilderness Camp, the start of your personalised Aboriginal guided tour. What
tour? Thats UpTuYu. Extreme outback adventure, tag-along tour, extended camping tour,
luxurious designer tour, whatever it is youre after, Nev will make it happen. Its all UpTuYu!
(Pick up from Broome or Derby can be arranged).
Scenic Flights
Bush Flight/Reef Flight, 9193 2680, www.bushflight.com.au
30 min flights over Derby, 1.5 hr Horizontal Falls and 4.5 hr Cape Leveque (2 hours on the
ground for swimming etc.) (no 2014 prices for those yet)
Also offers 30 mins over Galvans, Moll and Manning gorges ($149pp), 90 mins as before and
including Adcock and Dimond Gorge and more ($449pp), 150 mins of North Kimberley
including Mitchell Falls ($699pp).
Horizontal Falls Seaplane Adventures, 9192 1172, www.horizontalfallsadventures.com.au
Full day (6 hr) tours to Horizontal Falls, includes seaplane landing and jet boat ride through
falls $695pp. Horizontal Falls over night tours with luxury mothership stay, including guided
fishing (gear supplied) and all meals $845pp.
Kimberley Extreme, 9192 1172, www.kimberleyextreme.com.au
As above. Same phone number, same offerings.
Cruises
Buccaneer Seas Safaris, 9191 1991, www.buccaneer.com.au
Five to ften night Horizontal Waterfalls/Buccaneer Archipelago or Kimberley Coast Safaris
on a purpose built 11 metre aluminium vessel. Cruise all the way to Wyndham if you like.
Tours include scenic flight between Derby and Talbot Bay/Buccaneer Archipelago. Prices
work out at about $700 per person per night.
One Tide Charters, 9193 1358, www.onetide.com
Five to twelve days, Horizontal Waterfalls/Buccaneer Archipelago, coastal cruises. 9.1 metre
aluminium vessel. $680 per person per day.
Kimberley Discovery Cruises, 1800 185 960, www.kimberleydiscoverycruises.com.au
Twelf to fourteen day cruises and fly and cruise packages from Derby to Derby, Derby to
Wyndham, as well as between Darwin and Broome (includes Derby transfers). From $500 per
person per day.
Fishing
King Sound Sport Fishing: 9191 1115 or 0417 952 282, mudfish1@bigpond.net.au
Full day freshwater, estuary and/or saltwater fishing, from about $300 pp, depending on
number of people.
Barraddict Sportfishing, 0407 911 348, www.barraddictsportfishing.com.au
The Barraddict is a custom built 6.4 meter guide boat with an extended, open cast deck.
Departing from Eco Beach or Derby boat ramp. Small group fishing and mudcrabbing tours,
land based walk in fishing. Eco Beach 3 hr taste of fishing for $250, full day (6 hr) $350,
Derby 8 hr $320, 3-4 hr mudcrabbing $110, also offer full day combos as well as customised
trips for families, couples, hard core fishing enthusiasts, lovers of scenery and wildlife
spotters.
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Unreel Adventure Safaris, 9193 1999, www.unreeladventures.com

5,6 or 7 night extended fishing, diving or nature based tours and charters aboard a very well
equipped 16.5 m aluminium vessel. Passenger numbers are limited to 10 though the boat
could take more. Many charters include scenic flight between Derby and Talbot
Bay/Buccaneer Archipelago. Around $750 pp per day.
Fish 'n' Trips, contact Derby Visitor Centre
Full day (approx. 9 hr) tours to fish the waters of the Buccaneer Archipelago, from $600 pp,
5-8 people. Also available as sightseeing only for $500 pp. Shorter barra fishing ($250) and
mudcrabbing ($150) tours.
WINDJANA GORGE
indjana Gorge National Park is a well known and much visited park. It is
easily accessible, like Geikie Gorge and Tunnel Creek. The park protects a
3.5 km gorge, carved out of the Napier Range by the Lennard River. The
Napier Range is part of the same ancient barrier reef system that you also see at
Tunnel Creek and Geikie Gorge. In the Devonian period, over 300 million years ago,
this whole area was under the ocean. The walls on both sides of Windjana Gorge are
30 to 100 metres high and the gorge is over 100 metres wide.
It's an impressive sight, but it would be even more amazing to see during the wet
season when the Lennard River is a raging torrent. Of course you can't get near the
gorge then. At the beginning of the dry season it used to be possible to canoe the
whole length of the gorge (not allowed any more), but the waters recede quickly.
To see the Windjana Gorge follow the 3.5 km path that winds its way through the
monsoonal strip of vegetation along the permanent pools of water that remain. The
first 500 m take you to Bandigan Rock, which you have likely seen many times
already in photos of the gorge.
Over 80 freshwater crocodiles live in this small area. As the pools of water continue
to shrink the crocs end up more and more crammed into those pools. You can't miss
them. They are very used to humans, which is no surprise given the tourist numbers.
Freshwater crocodiles are harmless. They don't stalk or attack you like saltwater
crocodiles do. Still, they can attack if they feel threatened. Their teeth are razor sharp,
so please don't try to pet them or pick them up.
GETTING THERE
You can reach Windjana Gorge from either Derby (144 km) or Fitzroy Crossing
(147 km). The park is located on the Leopold Downs Road, a well maintained but
often corrugated gravel road that connects the Great Northern Highway with the Gibb
River Road. As long as the road is dry 2WD is usually ok.
The sign posted turn off to the Leopold Downs Rd. is 124 km from Derby, on the
Gibb River Rd. but before it gets too serious. The Leopold Downs Rd. turn off from
the highway is 43 km west of Fitzroy Crossing. See map in the Introduction.
Windjana Gorge is in a convenient location for people who want to see the Kimberley
but don't want to "rough it". Whether you come from Derby or Fitzroy Crossing, it
will take you about two hours to get to Windjana..
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Since Windjana Gorge is only 35 km from Tunnel Creek National Park you can visit
the two parks in one day. If you are driving the Gibb River Road, Windjana Gorge is
an obvious first/last stop for your trip.
Commercial day tours are available from Broome, Derby and Fitzroy Crossing. (See
the tour operator listings in the respective chapters.)
Access to the park for visitors without a parks pass is $12 per vehicle.
See the chapter National Parks in Part II for pass prices, p56.
CAMPING
The campground at Windjana Gorge is spacious and well maintained, with good
facilities, including showers. (Don't take showers as a given at bush campsites in the
Kimberley!) The so called Savannah Walk provides an alternative to the main track,
to get from the campground to the gorge entrance. And in the evening the view of the
Napier Range glowing in the evening sun makes a great back drop for pre- dinner
drinks.
There is also a separate camping area for those noisy generators and for tour
operators. The generator area has the same facilities plus fire places, limited fire wood
is provided. (Please do not bring your own wood to prevent spread of weed seeds.)
The camping fee is $12 pp ($2.20 for children under 16). Payment is made at the
entrance by putting the money in a provided envelope and depositing it. (That means
you will need the exact change.) During peak season the ranger may collect the fees.
Sites are allocated on a first come, first served basis, there is no reservation system.
For more information call the DPaW Broome: 9195 5500
Also see the accommodation/camping listings for Fitzroy Crossing for my favourite
free campsite in the area.
TUNNEL CREEK
unnel Creek National Park is one of the places that you absolutely shouldn't
miss. This small and unusual park is not far off the beaten track, you don't need
a four wheel drive to get there and it's great fun to explore. But make sure you
take a torch!
The park covers 91 hectares in the Napier Range, the same range that could also be
seen at Windjana Gorge. It is made of the limestone that remained of an ancient reef
system which existed here in the Devonian period (i.e. 350 - 375 million years ago).
The main feature of the park is the 750 metre tunnel that a creek has worn through the
Napier Range. The tunnel is the oldest cave system in Western Australia. It became
famous in the late 1800s. Aboriginal leader and "outlaw" Jandamarrabetter known
as "Pigeonwas using the "Cave of Bats" or "Pigeon Cave" as his hideout. After
years of playing hide and seek with the police he ended up being killed in front of it,
by another Aboriginal tracker, in 1897. (See box in Derby chapter.)
Tunnel Creek National Park is a day use only park. There is a small parking area, an
information shelter, a bush toilet and ... that's pretty much it.
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THE TUNNEL
A short path takes you to the entrance of the cave and the short walk and the entrance
are quite impressive already. The wall of the Napier Range is towering above you and
you have to climb over and squeeze between big boulders to get to the cave.
The opening is like a big hall in the rock and at the back of it the tunnel starts. If you
are one of those people who don't like tight spaces and think you might get a bit
claustrophobic, you don't need to worry. The tunnel is dark, but it is very spacious.
There are several permanent pools of water on the ground that you have to wade
through. At the start of the dry season they can be quite deep and in the middle of the
season they are cold. For most of the year you can't avoid the wading, so make sure
you wear shoes that can handle it.
For some reason most information materials make the standard recommendation of
"sturdy walking boots". My recommendation is, if you like your boots leave them in
the car. Take some sneakers or plastic sandals or similar.
But most importantly, take a good torch. Many people also use little head torches. I'd
prefer a more powerful torch. Whatever you take, make sure you have fresh batteries.
I found the walk to be much shorter and easier than I had expected. And more fun and
interesting than I had expected. Don't forget to shine your torch around the walls and
the ceiling lots. There are little waterfalls coming over the ledges on the sides, hidden
caverns and huge stalactites dangling from the ceilings.
About a third or half of the way the ceiling has caved in so you get a break and some
daylight. Little bats are flitting in and out of the dark and tree roots are growing
through gaps in the ceiling. And then it's back into the dark. Remember to also shine
your torch into thesomewhat murkywater. You may find interesting things in
there as well.
There are fish and apparently the odd little freshwater crocodile (harmless, just don't
try to pick them up) and also something that ... well, I never found out what it was.
Something like an eel or a water snake. Hey, it was dark and as I said, the water was a
bit murky because other people had already walked through it.So I lost it and couldn't
find it again. I would love to know what it was.
(A reader has since let me know that he saw a black eel in there. So I guess that's what
I saw, too.)
It's really nice to come out on the other side of the range, like coming back into the
living world. The sun is shining, the birds are chirping, the creek is murmuring... Sure,
they were doing all that before as well, but you seem to enjoy it a lot more after
having spent some time in the cool dark tunnel.
All in all it's a fantastic little trip and great fun, and my readers often mention it as one
of the highlights of their trip. So make sure you pack that torch!
GETTING THERE
You can reach Tunnel Creek from either Derby (179 km) or Fitzroy Crossing
(112 km), and during the dry season you should be able to do so by 2WD.
Tunnel Creek National Park is only 35 km south east of Windjana Gorge. That means
you can visit the two together in one day. The Windjana Gorge National Park includes
a campground, so it's very convenient to spend one night right there. If you don't like
camping then you are in for a pretty long day.
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The Leopold Downs Road connects the Great Northern Highway with the Gibb River
Road. You can use it to cut across from one to the other and visit Tunnel Creek and
Windjana Gorge on the way. See map in the Introduction.
Not driving yourself? Commercial day tours are available from Broome, Derby and
Fitzroy Crossing. See the tour operator listings in the respective chapters.
Access to the park for visitors without a parks pass is $12 per vehicle.
See the chapter National Parks in Part II for pass prices.
FITZROY CROSSING
itzroy Crossing is one of only two "towns" along the over 1000 km stretch of
highway between Broome and Kununurra. The town is located on the banks of
the Fitzroy River, which every wet season swells into a formidable torrent. The
Fitzroy can rise up to 13 metres above the old crossing and flow at 30,000 cubic
metres per second. The river in full flood is one of the largest rivers in the world and
an awesome sight to behold. (Not that many travellers ever get the chance.)
Fitzroy Crossing is a welcoming little township with a mostly Aboriginal population.
The main reason people stop here is the nearby Geikie Gorge National Park.
Like other Kimberley towns this is a sprawling place with no clear centre. The
excellent and friendly Tourist Information Centre is right next to the highway (to
the north, Forrest Rd corner Flynn Dr, opposite the Shell roadhouse, 9191 5355) and the
staff will supply you with free maps and information materials.
GETTING THERE
396 km from Broome

From Derby: 258 km (via highway) or 291 km (via Gibb River Road)
274 km from Halls Creek
The drive from Broome via the highway isn't exactly spectacular. Usually, during the
dry season, 2WDs can negotiate the way from Derby via the first part of the Gibb
River Road and the Leopold Downs Road, so do yourself a favour and go that way.
(Do, however, check on the road conditions first.)
You leave the Gibb River Road 126 km from Derby. (Huge sign posted turn off, you
can't miss it.) The Leopold Downs Road is 127 km long and usually in good
condition, albeit a bit corrugated. Not only does it run past two national parks that you
probably want to see anyway (Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek), it is also a lot
more scenic than the highway.
The road meets up with the highway 43 km west of Fitzroy Crossing.
Greyhound offers a bus service to other Kimberley towns.
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History
The Fitzroy River was first explored and named after Captain Robert Fitzroy (a former
commander of the HMS Beagle) by Captain Stokes in 1838. The upper reaches were
explored by Alexander Forrest in 1879. Forrest's reports on the pastoral potential of the
area resulted in Solomon Emanuel (a grazier and banker from Goulburn, NSW)
founding Gogo station 20 km downstream from the present day site of Fitzroy Crossing.
Local Aborigines resisted the invading European pastoralists and the area around
Fitzroy Crossing saw some particularly bloody battles.
Fitzroy Crossing itself sprung up for a single very good reason. It was a suitable place to
cross the huge Fitzroy River. In the past the river was often difficult or impossible to
cross. Travellers had no choice but to pull up at the Crossing Inn and to wait for the
waters to recede. Even at other times fording the Fitzroy could be quite an adventure and
the Crossing Inn became an infamous watering hole for the adventurers brave enough to
have a go.
These days there is a highway and a bridge further south and the whole town has shifted
south as a result. Still, during particularly wet periods the road still gets cut. It happens a
few times every wet season. And drinking beer is still the most popular way to pass wet
season waiting time in the Kimberley.
The Fitzroy Crossing region is full of interesting stories, perhaps none more ironic than
the battle over Noonkanbah Station. In 1979-80 local Aborigines gained control of the
station, but a claim for mining rights on the property was made almost immediately. The
Aboriginal owners opposed a request by Amex to search for oil. Instead of respecting
the rights of the new owners, the government brought police into the area to ensure a
safe passage for drilling equipment. The issue was widely publicised as an example of
the government's refusal to respect Aboriginal lands. The result: Amex wasted a lot of
money and the government looked very stupid. The rigs found no oil.

The main reason for tourists to stop in Fitzroy Crossing is of course the Geikie Gorge
National Park (next chapter), located only 20 kilometres out of town and accessible
on an all bitumen road.
But a few more places here are worth looking at. The old Crossing Inn was built in
1897 as a shanty inn and trade store for long distance travellers about to tackle the
crossing of the mighty Fitzroy. It's still standing and still serving beer, so having a
beer here is a must. If you like it you can get a room here, too.
The walls of the Crossing Inn are adorned with 20 large pieces of local Aboriginal
Art, painted by the students of the Fitzroy Crossing District High School.
The Pioneer Cemetery is in the same corner, on the banks of the river.
On the way to Geikie Gorge you pass the turn off to the Old Townsite where the
historical post office building is located. Today it houses a backpacker hostel. The
old police station is also still standing.
It's possible to walk from the Crossing Inn to this part of the Old Townsite via a
footpath over the small foot bridge over the Brooking Creek.
A bit further on is the low level concrete bridge that was built in 1935. Go ahead,
you can drive back and forth. But there's not much on the other side, just an unsealed
road back towards the highway. (It meets the highway where the Fitzroy River Lodge
is located.)
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Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau
Location: Flynn Drive
Open: Mon-Fri 8.30am 4.30pm (year round), Sat 9am - 1pm (Apr-Sep only)
Ph: 9191 5355, Fax: 9191 5085, fxam@sdwk.wa.gov.au
Also houses two Aboriginal art galleries, a shop, and offers photo processing.
Post Office, Forrest Rd, 9191 5060
Fitzroy Crossing Hospital, Fallon Rd, 9166 1777
ACCOMMODATION
Fitzroy River Lodge (and caravan park), Great Northern Highway, east of town, 9191
5141, www.fitzroyriverlodge.com.au
Sprawling complex with motel units, self contained family units, luxury suites and safari
lodges and a large caravan park. Take your pick, whatever suits your budget. Restaurant,
bistro, two bars, swimming pool, tennis courts. Boab room or safari lodge $160, motel room
$209, riverview studio $315, units for 4 from $410. Dogs allowed. Does not take bookings for
campground.
Crossing Inn (and caravan park), Skuthorp Rd, 9191 5080, www.crossinginn.com.au
Double room $190 (single $185), double rooms with balconies overlooking the river $195,
Restaurant open for Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Camping and caravan sites in bush setting,
camping $15pp, powered site for 2 $35.
Darlngunaya Backpackers, Russ Rd (Old Townsite), 9191 5140
Budget accommodation/backpackers, located in the historic post office building, owned and
operated by the Darlngunaya Aboriginal Corporation (also run Darngku Heritage Cruises at
Geikie Gorge). If you ring them they meet you at the bus.
Camping
Tarunda Caravan Park, Forrest St, 9191 5330
Powered site $27, unpowered camping $11 pp.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
RAAF Boab Quarry, 43 km west of Fitzroy Crossing turn north onto the Leopold
Downs Road. 11 km further is a Y-junction. Stay left to get to Tunnel Creek, veer right
to get to the quarry. Coming from the north the Y-junction is 60 km south of Tunnel
Creek and hard to see.
I just love that place. The quarry is not in use any more and the hole has filled up with
the clearest quarry water you can imagine. Hole doesn't quite describe it. It's more like a
huge man-made gorge, deep and green and with sheer cliffs, that winds its way into the
distance. Great for swimming. The surrounding scenery is exceptionally pretty, too, with
white rocks and cliffs and huge boabs. There are many sites to pitch a tent, one of them
is on a vantage point overlooking the gorge. Just gorgeous.
This is a very special place, so please treat it accordingly. There is no wood in the area,
you need to take your own. Behave yourself and make sure you take every little bit of
rubbish with you. Leave no trace. Please.
Push-Ups is located along the river, between Fitzroy Crossing and Geikie Gorge. To
find it look for the Brooking Springs Homestead turn off. The turn off is 1.3 km beyond
that on the right. The river is just a few hundred metres down the track. Because the
Fitzroy floods this area every year its hard to predict what you will actually find there.
(The last time I checked it it wasn't too inviting, but 2013 it might be great again.)
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Ngumban Cliff Lookout Rest Area is an official overnight stop on the highway
between Fitzroy Crossing (97 km) and Halls Creek (192 km). It is a very bare place, but
the location on top of the cliff is nice and makes for good views (and some times
howling winds).
TOURS
Geikie Gorge Boat Tours CALM/DEC, see info in Geikie Gorge National Park chapter.
Darngku Heritage Cruise, see info in Geikie Gorge National Park chapter.
Fitzroy River Lodge, 9191 5141, www.fitzroyriverlodge.com.au
The Fitzroy Lodge operates morning (8am) and afternoon (2pm) 2 hr town tours that take in
all the historical sites plus the Geikie Gorge cruise.
Bungoolee Tours, www.bungoolee.com.au
Aboriginal guided 2 hr tours of Tunnel Creek, $60 (children $20). 9 am and 2 pm Tues, Wed
and Thurs only. Book through Fitzroy Crossing Visitor Centre (91915355 ) or online.
Dillon Andrews is the custodian of the Windjana Gorge, Tunnel Creek and east across to
Leopold Downs station area and also offers stays at his Biridu Base Camp (on Leopold
Downs) and 1-3 day tagalong tours. Again, contact the Visitor Centre for info and bookings.
GEIKIE GORGE NATIONAL PARK
eikie Gorge National Park is the most easily accessible national park in the
Kimberley. It is only 20 km outside the small town of Fitzroy Crossing and
you don't even have to leave the bitumen to get to the gorge. (It's a 280 km
drive from Derby and 390 km from Broome.)
Geikie Gorge is situated at the junction of the Oscar and the Geikie Ranges. The
mighty Fitzroy River has carved a 30 metre deep gorge into the remains of the ancient
limestone barrier reef that existed here in the Devonian period.
When the Fitzroy is in full flood during the wet season it covers the whole national
park (which consequently is not always accessible). Those floods rise over 16 metres
up the gorge walls and the continuous rise and fall of the water has left the bottom of
the walls bleached white, an intriguing sight which makes Geikie Gorge very popular
with photographers.
GETTING THERE
Getting to Geikie Gorge National Park is very easy. If you need directions just duck
into the Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau. They'll give you a map and directions and
lots of other interesting info about Fitzroy Crossing as well. The Visitor Centre is on
the corner of Flynn and Forrest Rd, and Forrest Rd is the one you need to follow
anyway. The park is clearly signposted from there. After about 3 km turn right onto
Russ Road, and after another 3 to 4 km turn left onto Geikie Gorge Rd. It is a 20 km
drive all up.
Geikie Gorge National Park is a day use park only, no camping. It's open from 6.30am
till 6.30pm April to Nov, access is restricted over the wet when the river may flood.
There are picnic shelters and barbecue facilities, water and toilets. There is no park
access fee.
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You can explore the park on several walking trails or join one of the boat cruises. You
can also launch your own boat, but access to the boat ramp is restricted between 8am
and 4.30pm) and you need to contact the ranger first (call 9191 5112).
BOAT TOURS
DPaW boat tours, (Department of Parks and Wildlife, formerly DEC and before that CALM,
which looks after this and the other Kimberley national parks.)
End of April to November, depart several times a day, usually 8am and 3pm, addtional
9.30am and 11am departure during peak season, duration one to one and a half hours, guided
by one of the rangers. (Departure times can change, check with the Tourist Bureau or ring the
DPaW on 9191 5112, 9191 5121 or 9195 5500.) Tickets can only be bought at the gorge prior
to the tour and only with cash. The ticket costs $30.50 ($7.70 for children, $64 for family of
four).
Darngku Heritage Cruise (Darngku Aboriginal Cultural Tour), 9191 5552 or 0417 907 609
Half day (5 hour) tour that includes a guided walk. Darngku is the Aboriginal name of Geikie
Gorge, given to it by the traditional owners, the Bunaba, who will be your guides on these
tours. The Bunaba guides have been authorised by their people to take visitors to places that
you would not usually have access to. They will share with you their knowledge of the flora
and fauna, tell stories from their 30,000 year old culture, show you how to find bush foods
and more. This is a good tour for people who are keen to learn more about the rich Aboriginal
history of the Kimberley region.
The Darngku Heritage Cruise leaves Apr-Oct, Mon-Fri at 8.15am from the boat ramp and
includes morning tea and lunch. Book your ticket through the Tourist Bureau (9191 5355).
(Darlngunaya Aboriginal Corporation (DAC) which runs these cruises also operates
Darlngunaya Backpackers, the budget hostel in Fitzroy Crossings historic post office
building.)
THE WALKS
There are two walks in Geikie Gorge National Park.
The Reef Walk is the longer one (3 km). It takes about 1.5 hours to follow the trail
across the floodplains to the point where the western gorge wall meets the river and to
return along the river bank. It's the only walk that allows you good views of the
bleached eastern gorge walls.
A short additional loop walk branches off the first part of the Reef Walk and takes
you up into the limestone rocks and through a different habitat and vegetation before
joining the main walk again.
The other walk is called River Walk and only takes about 20 minutes. It leads down
to a sandbank on the river where you can have a fish, maybe spot some freshwater
crocodiles and if you're brave you can even go for a swim. (Freshwater crocodiles are
harmless as long as you don't annoy them.)
The main interest of the walks in Geikie Gorge is supposed to be the riverine vegetation
and the abundant wildlife. To someone who doesn't know the Kimberley the thick
greenery may even seem appealing. However, a lot of the growth that you find along the
trails is from introduced weeds that shouldn't be there.
Rampant climbers choke native vegetation, thorny shrubs form impenetrable thickets,
grasses with hooks and burrs attach themselves to anything that moves and are spread
that way. These weeds outcompete native vegetation, the habitat and food source for
native wildlife.
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Of course these weeds are not just at Geikie Gorge, they thrive along the whole length
of the Fitzroy River, right through the supposedly pristine and untouched Kimberley
wilderness. The Fitzroy is not the only place where this is happening. Introduced weeds
are just one of the many ecological threats the Kimberley is facing.
Update: one reader let me know that the current rangers are attempting to clean up and
fight the weed infestations. It's an impossible to win battle, but hopefully it will allow
you to see a slightly more natural and native vegetation at least inside the national
park.
WOLFE CREEK CRATER NATIONAL PARK
olfe Creek Crater National Park is located on the southern edge of the
Kimberley region, on the border of the Tanami Desert. It's out of the way
and can only be reached via the unsealed Tanami Road.
The country consists of flat desert plains, dotted with occasional trees and clumps of
spiky spinifex grass. The endless open space has a mesmerising beauty and makes the
striking formation of the Wolfe Creek meteorite crater stand out even more.
You can go exploring and hiking along the crater rim and enjoy magnificent views
that stretch to the end of the world, or so it seems. There is also a track down to the
crater floor. It's steep and the surface is loose. The signs try to discourage you from
scrambling down, but it's not really a problem.
The crater developed its own little eco-system after the meteorite impact. The nature
of the soil and rocks inside the crater is different from the surrounding desert, the
ground is more porous and the rim offers some shade, a rare thing in the desert.
Wolfe Creek Crater supports reasonably large trees and an interesting variety of
wildlife.
The rocks along the rim contain the moisture underneath and many flowering shrubs
take advantage of this. The best time for nature observations and taking photos is
usually the early morning and late afternoon. Most animals will hide during the heat
of the day and the harsh light makes your photos look flat.
On the other hand, for photos of the whole crater you don't want to arrive too late
because then half of the crater floor is already in the deep shadow of the rim.
The Meteorite Crater

Wolfe Creek Crater was formed by a giant meteorite that crashed into the earth 300,000
years ago. The 50,000 tonne meteorite impacted with a speed of 15 km a second (!),
leaving the second biggest crater in the world, 880 metres across.
The forces and the event are well beyond our imagination. A lot of the immense energy
of the impact was instantly converted into heat. It melted, pulverised and atomised the
meteorite itself and the ground underneath, deformed rocks and shot debris everywhere.
The crater that was left was probably about 120 metres deep. Over the next 300,000
years the wind gradually filled it with sand and today the crater floor is 50 to 60 metres
below the rim, which rises 25 metres above the surrounding flat desert land.
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Evidence of the impact, other than the crater itself of course, can be seen everywhere.
Fragments of iron meteorite have been found kilometres from the crater. The western
slopes of the crater and the floor are littered with more iron meteorite: rusty balls, some
of them fused to the rocks.
The crater was discovered during an aerial survey in 1947 and scientists have
intensively studied it since. But the Djaru Aboriginal people, the original inhabitants of
the area, have known the crater for thousands of years. They call it Kandimalal and have
their own dreamtime story about its creation:
Two rainbow serpents formed Sturt and Wolfe Creek as they crossed the desert .
Kandimalal is the place where one of the serpents emerged from the ground.
GETTING THERE
151 km from Halls Creek (unsealed)
To visit Wolfe Creek drive to Halls Creek on the Great Northern Highway. Halls
Creek is 290 km east of Fitzroy Crossing and 358 km west of Kununurra.
The distance from Broome to Halls Creek is 686 km.
The turn off to the Tanami Road is 16 km south of Halls Creek (towards Fitzroy
Crossing). From there you travel for another 112 km on the unsealed Tanami Road
and 23 km on the park access road. The main road can be used by 2WD during the dry
season, May - October. The last bit of road into the park can be quite sandy and the
crossing of the Wolfe Creek might cause problems for low 2WDs. The state of both
roads varies a lot, so if you aren't sure about your vehicle, try to get up to date
information about the conditions, ideally from someone who has recently been there,
otherwise from the Halls Creek Shire, who maintains this road.
Be aware that the road can also be very corrugated. You should allow two to three
hours for the trip, more if you're not in a 4WD.
Having said that, the road is being constantly upgraded. Long sections of it are
absolutely excellent. But then again, a season of use can always change that.
Some old maps still show Carranya Station near the crater as a place offering fuel and
accommodation. Nope. The station was abandoned long ago. There is absolutely
nothing out here.
Access to Wolfe Creek is free, there is no park fee.
CAMPING
The crater has few tourist facilities: an information shelter, picnic facilities and bush
toilets. No water is available! Please make sure you take enough. Keep in mind that
the desert climate is very dehydrating, even if you don't feel the heat as much as in the
humid tropics.
The campground is to your right before you get to the information shelter. It consists
of a loop road with individual camp sites branching off it. It has plenty of room for
everybody (though I was surprised to see how much it filled up even early in the
season). The only facilities at the campground are bush toilets.
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Fires are not allowed! You are in the Tanami Desert. Wood is an extremely scarce
resource here. It takes forever to grow. What you burn in a campfire in one night takes
many, many years to grow back. When you stand on the crater rim and look across the
desert you understand why the DPaW is pleading with visitors to not touch the wood.
Please don't collect wood in an area that is so obviously unable to regenerate it in a
reasonable amount of time.
Many visitors ignore this. On my last visit a group of young backpackers who were
camped next to us lit a huge bonfire. They burned decades of growth and homes of
animals that have no hope of replacing them any time soon.
Please leave the little wood that is available in the area where it is. It's needed by
creatures that depend on it a lot more than you do.
THE TANAMI ROAD
t 184,500 km2 the Tanami Desert is Australia's third largest desert. It is often
called "one of the most isolated and arid places on earth" or something along
those lines. - "As far from the beaten track as possible." - "Strictly for
experienced four wheel drivers only." Most of that is utter nonsense.
This might have been true ten years ago, but it certainly isn't today. The Tanami
Road is a reasonably well maintained road. During the dry part of the year anyone
with a good measure of common sense and a reliable car can do this trip. It may not
be the most comfortable trip ever, the road sure can get badly corrugated, but it is not
the challenging 4WDing adventure that it's made out to be.
Having said that, it is still a very long drive through a very remote region. On top of
that the infamous Rabbit Flat Roadhouse, which was located about half way, ceased
operation on December 31, 2010. That means you have to be totally self sufficient for
most of the drive and if you run into trouble you may be a long way from help. There
is however a good measure of regular traffic along the road so you don't need to worry
about perishing out there. It will just be a drawn out and expensive nuisance.
The road starts 16 km south west of Halls Creek and traverses the desert to meet the
Stuart Highway only a few kilometres north of Alice Springs.
Climate
The average annual rainfall in the Tanami Desert is over 400 mm. That is a lot of rain
for a desert. Rain falls during the wet season and when it rains it pours. So much so that
the Tanami Track is often impassable during that time of the year. It floods.
During the wet season the average maximum day time temperatures hover around 36 38C, dropping at night to 20 - 22C. (Note that I said average maximum. The
temperatures can soar above 45C!)
The dry season is much cooler. At the coldest time of the year (June/July) day time
temperatures peak around 25C and the night time temperatures drop below 10C.
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Again, these temperatures are averages. Between May and August you may very well
get night frosts!
Environment, Flora and Fauna

The country consists mostly of sandy plains. A lot of it is covered in spinifex grass, low
acacias (yellow flowering shrubs), some spindly grevilleas and other small trees and lots
of termite hills. Up north the terrain is rocky and hilly, in the middle it gets noticeably
flatter and in the southern parts you have some low ranges. I find the drive very
attractive and never boring.
The Tanami Desert includes some wetland areas (though you won't see them): Lake
Surprise in the Northern Territory and Lake Gregory in Western Australia. Lake
Gregory even retains permanent surface water (lakes in deserts are usually nothing but
salt flats).
The Tanami Desert is a very important biological area in Australia and is a refuge for
many endangered species, both plants and wildlife. The best known would be the rufous
hare-wallaby (mala), the bilby and the mulgara. In the 90s these species were still fairly
common in the Tanami Desert, more than anywhere else in Australia.
Unfortunately increasing pressure from feral invaders and habitat degradation has
changed that. There are still a few around, but certainly not what is considered stable
populations. Cats, some foxes and rabbits, camels and donkeys all do plenty of damage.
So does overgrazing by cattle (there is some cattle farming in the Tanami Desert), a very
common problem in Outback Australia.
The Tanami Track

The Tanami Road is also referred to as the McGuire Road or Track, but is most
commonly known as the Tanami Track. Most of the time it is a perfectly good road
that you can often take on even in conventional vehicles, provided it is dry, has been
fixed up since the last wet season, and you are reasonably prepared. At worst it is
horribly corrugated.
The main reason that the Tanami Road is now in comparatively good condition is that
the mining industry in the area has picked up again. The Tanami and Granites mines,
just off the main road, are amongst the biggest gold mines in Australia. The Tanami
Road is their major service route and that's good for anybody else who wants to use it.
There aren't many services along the Tanami Track, and since the Rabbit Flat closure
there are none along the central stretch. You should have a reliable car and a couple of
good spare tyres. Unless you have a long range tank you will also need to carry some
spare fuel and of course you should always carry plenty of water. Most of the bore
water available along the route is unsuitable for drinking. The only other essential is a
reasonable measure of common sense.
The whole length of the Tanami Track is about 1050 km. The trip usually takes two
days.
Services
There are several points along the way where you can buy fuel and limited supplies. If
you are lucky you might even get someone to do some mechanical repairs. However,
not all those places are reliable. Rabbit Flat was, Tilmouth Well is.
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Rabbit Flat, 453 km from Halls Creek, 622 km from Alice Springs, 8956 8744
Used to be closed Tue - Thu (you still find that outdated information in some places). They
are now open 7 days a week during the main season. (But please ring if you want to travel
after Oct 31 to ask about their wet season hours.)
Update: Rabbit Flat closed forever on Decmber 31, 2010!!
Tilmouth Well, 869 km from Halls Creek, 206 km from Alice Springs, 8956 8777,
www.tilmouthwell.com
Not a community but something of a roadhouse cum tourist resort on a working cattle station
(Napperby Station). Campground with ten on-site cabins and two powered sites, pool and bbq
area, licensed restaurant (breakfast, lunch, dinner and take-away) and bar, shop (also sells bbq
packs and salads), even gas bottle refills and tyre repairs and some tourist activities. Pets
welcome in camping area. The roadhouse sells diesel and unleaded. Drinking water available.
Open 7 days a week. Only downside? It's so close to the southern end of the road.
Yuendemu, 785 km from Halls Creek, 290 km from Alice Springs, 8956 4000
In 2010 the Aboriginal community had a lot ofgreatly exaggeratednegative press after a
"riot". I have stayed at Yuendumu myself and while I can think of more attractive places to
spend a night, I do not in any way consider it unsafe.
You are allowed to access Yuendumu without a pemit to stock up on fuel or supplies at the
two general stores. (Opening times vary.)
The council also runs a guest house, built for visting contractors, short term employees or
people visiting for other reasons. It's $80 for a room for two, with shared facilities and a fully
stocked kitchen. It's another option for people who do not want to bush camp, as you really
can't drive the whole length of the track in one day. If interested, call the Council office (8956
4000) and they will organises the bookings.
Permits
Most of the Tanami Desert is Aboriginal land, belonging to the Warlpiri people. You
don't need a permit as long as you stay on the main road and you are also allowed to
drive into Aboriginal communities (e.g. Yuendumu) to buy fuel or supplies. If you
want to venture elsewhere you have to get a permit first. You also need permission to
enter private land (cattle stations) or any of the mine sites.
Permits for NT communities: www.clc.org.au/Permits/permits.html
Permits for WA communities: www.dia.wa.gov.au/Entry-Permits.aspx
Camping
If you plan to bush camp just make sure you don't end up in any of the restricted
mining areas or on Aboriginal land where you are not supposed to be. The roads are
all signposted, so as long as you obey the "no entry" signs you will be fine.
I used to recommend Rabbit Flat to people who prefer a campground, but as of 2011
Timothy Wells, only 200 km from Alice Springs, is the only tourist
accommodation/camping that's available.
There isn't much along the way in terms of big sights or attractions. The Tanami
Track is mostly used as a short cut between central Australia and the Kimberley. I
find the drive and the country itself more than attractive enough. I would drive it even
if it was a detour. It certainly is a nice alternative to the Stuart Highway if you already
know that section of the highway.
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HALLS CREEK
T
itself.
he "Oasis Of The Kimberley" it says on one of the faded signs at the town
entrance. I think I saw it coming from the Duncan Road. To be honest, from a
travellers perspective there aren't many reasons to hang around Halls Creek
However, the country surrounding Halls Creek is some of the most beautiful along the
Great Northern Highway and there are several magnificent places just out of town
where you can camp for a night. Or for several nights.
Of course, you may need to replenish stocks (the local supermarket is as small as the
town, but the butcher is great) and if you aren't set up for camping you may want to
spend a night in Halls Creek. After all, Halls Creek is the place closest to the Bungle
Bungle and closest to the turn off to Wolfe Creek Crater National Park. The motels
are very nice and there are a few things to do in town as well.
GETTING THERE
360 km from Kununurra via Victoria Hwy and Great Northern Hwy
290 km from Fitzroy Crossing via Great Northern Hwy
History
The first explorer to survey the area (1879) was Alexander Forrest, the man who named
the Kimberley. He reported about the excellent potential of the Kimberley as cattle
grazing country, but he overlooked another opportunity. It was his brother John Forrest
who noticed signs indicating that there may be gold.
The first two men who went looking for gold shortly after (Adam Johns and Phil
Saunders) didn't have much luck, though they did find a few ounces.
In 1885 two other men arrived in the area, after sailing to Derby, travelling up the
Fitzroy River and then across to the Elvire River. They stumbled over gold just about
everywhere. Their names were Jack Slattery and Charlie Hall. (Halls Creek was named
after Charlie.)
A short but intense gold rush followed. That's rush with a capital R. Officially the gold
was discovered on 14 July 1885. It was only weeks after word about the first gold
discovery in WA was out that men from as far away as New Zealand arrived. Men
walked across from Queensland! The newly established ports in Derby and Wyndham
boomed as thousands of miners poured into the region.
And within the blink of an eye it was over.
Gold had been discovered in the southin Coolgardie to be precisewhich was a lot
easier to reach and nowhere near as inhospitable and harsh as the north. Halls Creek was
a ghost town by 1888.
Nothing much happened over the next 50 or so years. At least nothing much that history
books consider worth mentioning. But if you dig around a bit you will find a plethora of
riveting stories about the hardships and the heroism of the early pioneers.
Since the end of the gold rush Halls Creek has existed as a service centre for the
surrounding cattle stations and for the traffic passing through. That's still the case today.
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The historical Halls Creek town site was eventually abandoned. Lack of water was one
reason (how people managed to survive there without a water source is a mystery), but
the main reason was the re-routing of the main road today's highway. The move to the
new site only 15 km from the old town started in 1948 and was completed in 1954.
Today the ruins of the original town site are a tourist attraction. You used to be able to
forage around amongst the ruins, evoking the ghosts of days gone by, but no more.
All the ruins are now covered and fenced off. That was necessary to preserve what's
left, unfortunately it significantly reduced the appeal of the site.
The new town isn't much to write home about either. Halls Creek is mostly service
town for surrounding pastoralists, Aboriginal communities and travellers. Looking at
it it's hard to believe that this is the fourth fastest growing shire in Western Australia.
The main road (which is the highway passing through) features a couple of service
stations, an IGA and an Outback Fresh supermarket, a great butcher, a bakery, a take
away and the nice new Visitor Information Centre at the corner of Hall Street.
The population of Halls Creek fluctuates a lot. Apparently it is now around 3300, but
the number includes the whole shire, meaning all the surrounding cattle stations and
Aboriginal communities. The town itself is a lot smaller and the population is mostly
Aboriginal. Halls Creek faces the usual problems of alcohol abuse, domestic violence
etc. that you find in all north Western Australian and Northern Territory towns and
communities.
Having said that, the very strict alcohol restrictions have greatly reduced street
drinking, disorderly behaviour and all the associated noise and trouble that you may
have read about. You absolutely can spend a pleasant night here, I just think it's much
nicer at some waterhole outside Halls Creek.

The main thing that Halls Creek has going for it is its location. It is still an essential
stopover point for travellers, just as it has been for the last 130 years. The country
surrounding Halls Creek is amongst the most scenic in the Kimberley, the drive from
here to Kununurra is amongst the most scenic in Australia.
The turn-off for the Tanami Road and the Wolfe Creek Crater is only 16 km to the
south-west, the turn off to Purnululu National Park is 107 km to the north-east.
Closer to town, not far off the main highway, are a few interesting places along the
Duncan Road: the historic town site Old Halls Creek has already been mentioned. It's
a 15 km drive.
About half way between new Halls Creek and the Old Town, on a track turning left
off the Duncan Road, is the China Wall. The China Wall is an exposed quartz vein
sticking out of the ground to form a natural white wall, seemingly consisting of
blocks. It rises from the creek at the bottom (which is a nice spot for a swim during
the wet season) over the side of the hill and looks like a miniature version of the Great
Wall of China.
However, for most people the biggest reasons to come out here are the swimming
holes and free bush camp sites. (See the next chapter about the Duncan Road.)
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To explore the town itself get your map at the Visitor Centre and do the Town Walk.
You can discover many interesting facts on the totem poles that take you around town.
And the Met Bureau Weather Station offers a free tour starting at 1pm where you
can learn about the radar and about weather balloon releases.

Location: Crnr Great Northern Hwy/Hall St, opposite the Shell Roadhouse
Open 7am 5pm (Apr Sep), 8am 5pm (Okt Mar)
Ph: 9168 6262, Fax: 9168 6467
tourism@hcshire.wa.gov.au , www.hallscreektourism.com.au
Post Office, Thomas St, 9168 6111
Halls Creek Hospital, Roberta Ave, 9168 9222
ACCOMMODATION
Kimberley Hotel/Motel, Roberta Ave, 9168 6101 or 1800 355 228,
www.kimberleyhotel.com.au
Nice, large rooms, bar and restaurant, pool and spa, outdoor bar and dining area. Budget
rooms from $165, corporate $209, deluxe $250, family rooms and apartments from $350.
Best Western Halls Creek Motel, Great Northern Hwy, 9168 9600,
hallscreek.bestwestern.com.au
Renovated motel rooms, al fresco restaurant and bar. Rooms $285.
Halls Creek Lodge, Old Town, 9168 8999, www.hindin.org
The lodge is near the old townsite and when you first get there you will see a hill with car
wrecks and abandoned machinery parts strewn around. That's it. It actually has airconditioned budget rooms, a terraced, shady and well appointed caravan & camping ground
with great views and a restaurant and mini mart. (Don't rely on the latter though, it's not
always operating.) The old lodge is different, somewhat rough around the edges, but it's good
value for money. If you usually only stay at neat Big 4 parks this may not be your cup of tea. I
find it has something and is a much better option than the park in town. Its also a good place
for serious explorers and fossickers to get local information about the area, directions to the
old Ruby Queen Mine for example.
Halls Creek Caravan Park, Roberta Ave, 9168 6169
In town. Was a bit tired last time I looked but the facilities are adequate (also has a pool) and
usually clean and tidy. Dogs are allowed. Sites from $38. Pet bond $25.
Shell Roadhouse, Mc Donald St, 9168 6060, cabins
If you are set up to bush camp I recommend one of the places further along the Duncan Road:
Palm Springs, Caroline Pool and Sawpit Gorge are all nearby. See next chapter for details.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
Mary Pool Rest Area is an official rest area on the highway, 179 km from Fitzroy
Crossing and 109 km from Halls Creek. It's huge, has big shady trees and is well off the
road. It's also hugely popular and during the season often looks like a caravan park.
Those with tents can camp on the grassy banks down at the river. There are toilets and
bins, tables and seats, fireplaces and barbecues and most of the year there is also river
water for washing etc.
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THE DUNCAN ROAD
he unsealed Duncan Road (formerly Duncan Highway) is an alternative route

between Kununurra and Halls Creek. It starts in Halls Creek and takes you
through the beautiful back country below Lake Argyle to the Victoria
Highway, not far east of Kununurra.
Now, there is nothing wrong with the highway between Kununurra and Halls Creek.
In fact, it's the most beautiful part of the Great Northern Highway inside Western
Australia and I can highly recommend it, especially in the early morning or late
afternoon hours.
So Why Take The Duncan Road?

Well, some of us prefer back tracks to main roads. The Duncan Road crosses several
rivers and creeks that are safe for swimming and there are some really nice rock pools
and gorges where you can setup camp for a night (or several). If you are in no big rush
and like camping and nature then it's a no brainer. I personally consider the Duncan
Road one of the most scenic roads in the Kimberley. (Admittedly we don't have that
many real roads.)
Then there are the people visiting Purnululu National Park on a round trip from
Kununurra. Why not make it a real round trip and choose a different route for the trip
there and back?
And if you are too early in the year to see the Gibb River Road (which has bigger
rivers and opens later), or simply don't have the time to see the Gibb River Road, then
the Duncan Road is a great way to get a taste of Kimberley cattle country and
Kimberley gorges.
Need to Know
Length: 441 km
Northern (eastern) end: joins the Victoria Highway 20 km east of the Northern
Territory/Western Australia border.

Southern (western) end: joins the Great Northern Highway in Halls Creek.
Services: none!
The road was built specifically to service the remote cattle stations in this area.
It was named Duncan Highway in 1961.
Decommissioned as a highway in 1976 and renamed Duncan Road.
In 1995 ownership was transferred from Main Roads to the Halls Creek Shire
which has been looking after it since (and doing an excellent job).
First of all, though unsealed, this road is usually in good to excellent condition. There
is nothing to worry about for inexperienced drivers, no special skills required. All the
river crossings are reinforced with bitumen or concrete. There may be some wash outs
and potholes in them after a big wet season, that's all. Just take it slow.
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There is a fair bit of traffic (by Kimberley standards), so if something totally

unexpected and out of your control happens you won't have to wait for too long for
some help.
Similar to the Gibb River Road the Duncan Road is mainly a beef road and during the
mustering season you will see many road trains transporting cattle. Stay out of their
way, they hurtle along at quite some speed and can't stop easily.
Watch out for animals on the road. Apart from cattle and wallabies (kangaroos) you
may also come across wild horses, donkeys, pigs, camels and who knows what else.
(A friend of mine recently saw buffalo and very nearly hit it.)
Also be mindful of the fact that all this land is private land and act accordingly. No
reckless bush bashing, no trespassing, no littering, no starting fires etc.
There are no services whatsoever along the road, so make sure you have everything
you need, especially enough fuel! Its 174 km from Halls Creek to the Duncan
Road/Buntine Highway intersection. Turn left to follow the Duncan Road for another
271 km to the Victoria Highway, 56 km east of Kununurra
THINGS TO SEE/PLACES TO CAMP

Well, the whole 441 km are worth seeing, especially just after the wet season, say late
April to early June.
Every few kilometres the landscape changes, the views of the ranges, the vegetation,
the colours of the wildflowers carpeting the hillsides ... it never gets boring.
That time of the year most rivers and creeks have plenty of water left in them.
Upstream from the crossings you will find good sized pools with deep and clean
water, perfect for a picnic and a swim.
All the popular camping spots are close to Halls Creek:
FREE BUSHCAMPING
Caroline Pool
The turn off is 13 km from Halls Creek and sign posted, just follow the signs from there.
Caroline Pool is a permanent waterhole on the Elvire River and in the days of old Halls
Creek it was the towns main recreation site. It's still popular with both locals and
tourists.
To protect this waterhole and the surrounding vegetation the Environmental Health
Department had to restrict access to Caroline Pool. As of 2008 it is officially a day use
only area. At least that's how the shire would like to see it used. Most people seem to
ignore that. If you decide to stop here, please keep the place clean.
Palm Springs
The Duncan Road crosses Palm Springs Creek 40 km from Halls Creek. There is a small
clean pool and a small clearing which offers room to camp. Unfortunately it's right next
to the road. A short walk to the north east of the crossing takes you to the source of the
creek, a spring fed pool. This used to be the towns water supply. It's still a reserve today
and you're not allowed to swim here, but camping is fine.
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Sawpit Gorge
(Also called Sawtooth Gorge.) Turn off to Sawpit Gorge a few hundred metres past the
Palm Springs crossing. From there it's another 3 km on a narrow dirt track. The gorge is
a series of deep pools along the Black Elvire River (which isn't black but nice and
clean). Sawpit Gorge is also quite popular and you are rarely alone out here.
From Halls Creek you may even be able to reach those places in a normal car if you are
game and drive carefully, but you won't have much choice of campsites at Caroline Pool
and Sawpit Gorge, just the small car park area where the track ends. Four wheel drives
can get down into the river bed and closer to the water, which is of course much nicer.
Marella Gorge
My favourite place along the Duncan Road is a privately owned gorge which is only
accessible by four wheel drive: Marella Gorge. It used to belong to Nicholson Station
but is now owned by Flora Valley Station (9168 8920) and you need to get permission if
you want to go there. They are usually fine with it and as long as everybody behaves and
leaves the place the way they found it they might just let us use it a little while longer!
(Update: rumour has it that Flora Valley will not allow access in 2014. The rumour has
been around every year since they took over Nicholson so there is still hope.)
Marella Gorge is not easy to find. The turn off is 23 km from the T-junction near the old
Nicholson Station homestead (and 151 km from Halls Creek). Its hard to see and you
easily miss it.
Coming from Nicholson Station you have to cross two (dry) creeks first. The t/o is in a
sweeping left bend, to your right. You'll see it just as you pass it. There is a big Y where
the track joins the road as in, one track in, one track out. (The HEMA map I recommend
in Part I shows the gorge.)
It's a rough track, only two wheel ruts. The countryside is of course spectacular. After
driving through a gate continue slightly towards the right, over the flat rocks. (The track
is not really visible here). Shortly after, the track turns into a network of wheel marks,
most of which will take you to the edge of the gorge. You won't even see the gorge until
you pull up right at the edge. There's nothing indicating it's there.
Some good camp sites are perched on top of the edge, some tracks take you down to the
water (but are so steep that you want to make sure your driver and car will be able to
climb back up). You can swim or sit under the waterfalls or fish ...
You'll be alone out here. There's plenty of space along the gorge, several kilometres to
get away from each other in case there is another vehicle. But my experience is that half
of the people who get permission and directions still can't find it. Which is good, I think.
It's a very special place and will hopefully remain that way.
Negri River
The Negri River crossing is about 135 km north of the Nicholson Station Homestead
and a pleasant camp site is located on the western side of the road, on the Halls Creek
side of the crossing. If its already taken, just keep driving. Several more creek and river
crossings on that stretch of the road make good overnight stops and bush camps.
At the far end, 6 km before the Duncan Road meets the Victoria Highway, a turn off
to the left takes you to the Zebra Rock Mine, which is located 4 km from the turn off.
Kim and Ruth have owned the lease for a few years now, but they only opened for
tourists in May 2011. You can buy Zebra Rock directly from the mine (and all sorts of
wonderful items crafted from it), get a free mine tour and look out over Lake Argyle.
Best of all, you can also camp here, and it's very good value.
Zebra Rock Camping, 0400 767 650
Very friendly hosts, scones and coffee upon arrival. Unpowered camping only, fires allowed,
the two shower/toilet units are new and clean (but may be not enough for a big influx of
people), $10 pp. You can pick up a Telstra mobile signal from the lookout.
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BUNGLE BUNGLE-PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK
verybody calls them the Bungles, or the Bungle Bungles, that maze of curious
orange and black striped beehive shaped domes in Purnululu National Park.
The sandstone domes are without a doubt one of Australia's most unusual and
fascinating landforms
However, to call them Bungle Bungles is technically incorrect. It's the Bungle Bungle,
singular. Bungles is acceptable. Bungle Bungles? Never.
On the website I have to use the incorrect term, because that is what people use when
they google it. Unless I also use the same incorrect version they won't find me... Here
I'll do my best not to slip.
The area of the actual Bungle Bungle range is about 450 km2. The national park is
239,723 ha in size. A 79,602 ha conservation reserve acts as a buffer zone to protect
the range.
To get to the Bungles takes some time and effort. And a 4WD. But visit them you
must!
History
Where the name Bungle Bungle comes from is not clear. The Kija Aboriginal people,
who have lived here for over 20,000 years, called the area Purnululu, the Kija word for
sandstone.
Bungle Bungle may be a mangled version of that name, or maybe it stems from the
name of the bundle bundle grass that grows in the region.
The name Bungle Bungle was first given to a nearby station in 1930. And in 1983, when
the Department of Lands And Surveys had to call the range something, they named it
after the nearby station.
Clear is that the range, though only 100 km from the main highway, was only
"discovered" by a film team in 1983.
The pastoralists in the area had known about the it for longer, but they sure had other
things to worry about in this harsh country. Only when a national television
documentary crew turned its cameras onto the astounding orange domes did the world
take note.
The WA government recognised the botanical importance of the area and also its
significance to the traditional inhabitants. Purnululu National Park was established in
1987. It skyrocketed to world fame in no time at all. In 2003 Purnululu was inscribed as
a World Heritage Area, thanks to its outstanding geological value and its incredible
natural beauty.
Or as the official listing criteria demand:
"Superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional beauty and aesthetic
importance"
Take a scenic flight over the towering domes, the network of narrow gorges running
through them in endless twists and turns in the glow of the morning or afternoon sun,
and you'll need no further explanation.
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Today Purnululu is jointly managed by the DPaW and by representatives of the two
Aboriginal language clan groups who have traditional connections with the park, the
Djaru and the Kija people.
Geology
Well, the full story of the geology of the area is a bit too much to cover here. What
people usually want to know is how the striped domes were formed, so here goes:
The sandstone formation of the Bungle Bungle range is estimated to be 350 million
years old, give or take a few millions. Like the reefs at the Geikie and Windjana gorges
the range was formed during the Devonian period. But the range isn't part of a reef. It's
the sediment of an old river bed. The sediment was laid down in layers, compressed into
sandstone and eventually lifted up to form a mountain range.
Originally it was all one big block, with joints and weak areas as a result of the
movement. Weathering caused more cracks and the edges wore away in the millions of
years of torrential wet season rains, winds, combined with alternating winter freezes and
50 plus degree heat in summer.
The domes are located on the edge of the range. If you fly over the whole range you can
see a new area of domes in the making, as the erosion continues towards the centre of
the massif. Not that we'll see it happen. That will be a few more million years...
The dark layers in the sediment/rock have a higher clay content and hold the moisture
better. They support cyanobacteria (primitive organisms, previously called blue-grey
algae). The bacteria only grow on the surface, a few mm into the rock. But that's enough
to form a protective outer layer and prevent erosion.
The lighter coloured layers have less clay, are more porous and dry out quickly.
Cyanobacteria can't grow here and without the protective coat the surface is exposed to
"rusting". Oxidisation of the iron in the sandstone gives the range the beautiful orange
colour.
The sandstone is rather soft and fragile. The raging waters of the wet seasons have
washed out wide creeks and deep canyons, steep sided rifts and chasms, not to forget the
astounding circular Cathedral Gorge, the result of a massive wet season whirl pool.
Erosion would continue at a much more rapid pace if it wasn't for the easily damaged
cyanobacteria coat. This is a very fragile environment, hence you are not allowed to do
any climbing or similar. In fact, there are only a few hikes through the range and you are
not allowed to leave the paths. Most of the range is protected from human feet trampling
through it. A helicopter flight over it is the best way to understand the geology of the
area and to appreciate the sheer scale of it.
Nothing, however, beats walking through it. Spending a day hiking in Piccaninny Creek
is like a day in a different, magical world, on another planet, in another sphere. It's
impossible to compare the Bungle Bungle range to anything you know.
BEST TIME TO VISIT

The park is most beautiful at the beginning of the dry season. Absolutely, stunningly
beautiful. Purnululu in early May, after a great wet season, is amongst the most
beautiful things I have seen in my life.
The road into the park usually opens early in April (weather permitting). If you arrive
here in May you can be pretty sure that you'll be able to get into the park, one way or
other. Or should I make that past tense...?
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There are no guarantees. In 2007 the park had to temporarily close in June due to out
of season rains! The same thing happened again in May 2010. The year 2011 saw an
extremely wet and late wet season altogether. The climate is going crazy...
Early in the season the country is still lush and green. The plains around the domes are
thickly covered in bright yellow Acacia flowers, the grevilleas are blooming as well
and wildlife is still very active.
The day temperatures in May are still well above 30, higher amongst the domes. If
you want to do an overnight walk you will appreciate the fact that there is still a lot of
water in the rock pools. It saves you carrying it all and you can also enjoy a refreshing
dip every now and then. But the waters recede quickly and the pools become stagnant
and smelly.
I personally prefer to get in early to avoid the masses. The main tourist rush in the
Kimberley starts in June. Mid June to mid August is the peak season and the park is
very busy. This is the coolest time of the year. It's very pleasant during the days, but
the nights can drop below zero! The nights in Purnululu National Park are colder than
anywhere else in the Kimberley. Camping is the only option if you want to stay over
night, so make sure your sleeping bag is warm enough.
The weather warms up again in late August/September, tourist numbers drop, but by
then all the water is gone and the land is brown and dusty. By October it is pretty
cruel during the day. Between the rocks the temperatures can easily soar above 50C
and heat exhaustion becomes a real problem, unless you are fit and used to heat.
Officially the road into the park stays open until the end of December (weather
permitting). The Visitor Centre and camps close in mid-October. The whole park may
close early because of heat or wet weather or even bush fires.
Purnululu National Park Visitor Centre
9168 7300 (April - Dec)
DPaW/DEC in Kununurra
9168 4200
GETTING THERE
Purnululu National Park is located in the East Kimberley. You can reach the turn off
on the Great Northern Highway from either Kununurra (250 km), Warmun/Turkey
Creek (52 km) or Halls Creek (108 km). From the turn off it is another 53 km to the
park entrance.
Important update: A new caravan park opened in May 2011. It is located right at
the turn off to the Bungles, on Mabel Downs Station, accessible by 2WD, and the
owners are also offering day trips to the Bungles.
Bungle Bungle Caravan Park, 9169 1995, www.bunglebunglecaravanpark.com.au
At the turn off to the Bungles on Mabel Downs Station, 750m from the highway. Owned and
run by the station owners. Road to the caravan park accessible for 2WD.
Standard safari tents $120, with ensuite bathrooms $225. No dogs in safari tents.
Powered sites $50 (2 people), non powered sites $35 (for 2), extra persons or tent camping
$15. Dogs ok if kept on a leash and not causing any disturbance to other campers.
Bush restaurant open for dinner (some real bush tucker, stews, roast beef and curries) and
fully cooked breakfast. BYO.
Caravan storage available at $15 per night.
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Bungle Bungle Expeditions, www.bunglebungleexpeditions.com.au

Part of the same operation. Offers day tours to Bungles at $285 pp. Departs 7am, returns 6pm,
includes morning tea, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner at bush restaurant.
Also offering 4WD station tours, fixed wing and helicopter flights over station and Bungles,
as well as Lake Argyle cruises and longer outback tours.
Even though the access track has seen $300,000 worth of upgrades in 2013, it still is
strictly four wheel drive and single axle off-road caravans and trailers only.
Don't even think about taking anything else. Dual axle and standard caravans/trailers
are not allowed.
You can leave your caravan at the new Bungle Bungle Caravan Park. Alternatively
see the Warmun chapter for caravan storage information.
It's a rough road with a lot of corrugations, creek crossings, steep climbs and tight
corners. (That is, steep climbs and tight corners for a road. It's not a 4WD track like
some people imagine. Just too narrow, hilly and windy to be safe for larger caravans
being towed in both directions). Depending on the state of the road it may take you
two to three hours for this part.
Four critical creek crossings have been upgraded during the above mentioned works,
so access is a bit easier than it used to be during the early season or during unseasonal
rains.
That brings the total driving time to five to six hours from Kununurra, three to four
hours from Halls Creek and about three hours from Warmun.
But that's only the park entrance. Say, you are trying to "do" Purnululu as a day trip
(yes, some people do): be aware that it is another 27 km from the entrance and visitor
centre to the domes and to Cathedral Gorge. Mini Palms and Echidna Chasm are on
another road, in a different direction, also 20 km from the visitor centre. And the
roads within the park are only slightly better than the access road!
The speed limit in the park is 50 kph, but I doubt you will be tempted to go faster
anyway. Do the maths. A day trip just doesn't give you a chance to see much.
Many people ignore this advice and are in a mad rush. Hence they loathe the rough
road that slows them down. Hence the road has such a bad reputation. In reality it is
not that bad. It can be a bit rough, but it is an exceptionally scenic drive, especially
very early in the morning or in the afternoon. Take your time and enjoy it!
The creek crossings can be a bit dicey very early in the season. Update: the most
critical ones have been upgraded in 2012/13! They are, however, crocodile free. You
can always get out of your car and walk across to check for holes or submerged
rocks/logs first.
Contact the Purnululu NP Visitor Centre or the Halls Creek Visitor Centre for current
road conditions. Once the water levels have dropped (a matter of a couple of weeks)
the drive is not difficult in any way. Just take it easy.
Purnululu National Park Visitor Centre

9168 7300 (April - Dec)

9168 6262
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VISITOR INFORMATION
Entry into Purnululu National Park attracts a one time fee of $12 per vehicle.
Alternatively you can purchase a parks pass. See the chapter National Parks in Part II
for prices.
The opening times for the Visitor Centre are 8am - 12 noon and 1pm - 4pm (April to
mid-October). If you arrive outside those hours you can self register. Put the money
for your entrance and camping fee in a provided envelope and drop it in the box there.
(You need the right change.)
Camping
In addition to the entry fee or park pass there is a camping fee of $12 per person per
night ($2.20 for children), payable at the Visitor Centre upon entering the park. 24hr
self registration available, see above.
Purnululu National Park has two public campgrounds:
Kurrajong is 7 km north of the visitor centre, in the direction of Echidna
Chasm and Mini Palms (Bloodwood).
Walardi is 12 km south of the visitor centre, in the direction of the domes,
Cathedral Gorge, Whip Snake Gorge, and Piccaninny Creek.
The campgrounds are separated in a generator and a quiet area. They have bush toilets
and bore water but there are no showers. It is not recommended that you drink the
bore water unless you boil or treat it.
The only place to light a fire (provided there is no fire ban) are the shared wood
barbecues. Firewood is supplied from outside the park. You can't collect wood
yourself in the park! You can only use what is supplied. Please use it sparingly.
Important update: You now have to pre-book camp sites at Walardi or Kurrajong
at least 48 hrs ahead. You can do so online: www.dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds/deccampgrounds.html
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Bellburn is a commercial campground. Two operators maintain facilities here. You

have to book ahead to stay at their camps. If you booked to stay at Bellburn, you still
need to call into the visitor centre to register and pay your park entrance fee.
East Kimberley Tours, 9168 2213, www.eastkimberleytours.com.au/accommodation.html
(Receives regular thumbs ups from readers.)
The upmarket mega travel company APT operates wilderness camps throughout the
Kimberley, under the name Kimberley Wilderness Adventures.
The Bungle Bungle Wilderness Camp was located at Bellburn Creek. In 2011 it was
renamed Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge, after the addition of superior cabins at a
second site upstream, called Piccaninny site.
Like all their camps, or now lodges, the Bungles lodge offers tented accommodation
with private facilities. All camps are fully hosted and include hot showers, real beds and
dinners.
To book: 9192 7022 or 1800 335 003, info@kimberleywilderness.com.au
You can plan and book your whole Kimberley trip through Kimberley Wilderness
Adventures. Independent travellers can purchase a safari pass that allows access to all
camps. Sorry, lodges.
More info: (03) 9277 8444 or 1300 334 872, www.kimberleywilderness.com.au
See the free bushcamping sites listed for Warmun if you want to save on camping fees.
Also consider the new caravan park at the highway turn off if you are towing and
don't want to take your trailer or offroad-van into the park.
Other Facilities
The Park Visitor Centre has information about the park and the Kimberley in general,
leaflets and books. The Purnululu National Park rangers also offer activities and free
talks on some evenings, so find out what's happening when you arrive.
The small shop sells souvenirs and cool drinks, but no ice or food. Make sure you
bring everything you need with you.
Public telephones are available at the visitor centre. You can organise your helicopter
flight from here, too. You could also call into the booking office at Bellburn airstrip
(near the Walardi campground).
Scenic Flights
Scenic helicopter flights are available from within the park. But for those who can't
get here, for lack of time or because they are in a 2WD or towing a caravan, there are
other options. See the tour operator listings under Warmun and Kununurra.
(Also see the listing for the new caravan park at the highway turn off in the Getting
There chapter.)
Heliwork Bellburn, 9168 7335 or 9166 9300, www.slingair.com.au
Flights available from inside the park are:
18 minute "Dome Special" $235 child, (3-12) $185
30 minute Standard $335, child $285
48 minute "Long Look" $495, child $445
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WALKS AND SIGHTS

Purnululu National Park can be divided into two sections: a northern and a southern
part. Both parts feature several walks, a sunset lookout and a campground.
Once you paid your entrance fee at the Visitor Centre you continue either north or
south:
The Southern Area

In the southern part of the park you find the orange and black striped beehive domes
that the Bungle Bungle range is so famous for. The Walardi public campground is 12
km from the visitor centre. Piccaninny Creek car park is a 25 minute drive from there
(45 minutes from the park entrance).
All southern walks start from Piccaninny Creek car park. You get your first
impression of the domes as you drive towards the car park. You are not supposed to
stop on the road except at the provided viewing bays, but it's hard not to because
every corner presents you with an even more stunning view than the previous one.
You learn pretty soon that the beauty of the Bungle Bungle Range is not easily
captured in photos. Standard lenses are nowhere near wide enough to capture the
magnificent views. And once you get out of the car and start walking between the
domes you will be too close, the valleys too steep and narrow and dark...
Photos can't do this place justice.
Cathedral Gorge
This is the most famous sight in the Bungles and also one of the easiest to reach. The
walk into Cathedral Gorge is about 3 km return. You should allow at least one hour so
you can spend some time absorbing the atmosphere.
Cathedral Gorge is a huge natural amphitheatre, a geological marvel. A rock ledge on
the left invites you to sit down, watch and observe. The acoustics are fascinating (if
there aren't too many people around). The voices are carried around and if you turn
your head in the right direction the people on the opposite side sound as if they were
right behind you.
Early in the season there is a pool in the middle of the theatre and if you look up you
see shrubs dangling from the towering walls. Just sit there and reflect on the time, the
amount of water and the forces it took to form this place.
Domes Walk
The Domes Walk is connected to and can be done as part of the Cathedral Gorge
Walk. It's like a detour or a couple of side tracks. What you will see is more of the
scenery that you also encounter on your way to Cathedral Gorge: sandstone beehives,
creek beds, gaps and crevices, evidence of wet season waterfalls and of weathering. It
only takes about 20 minutes, so why not?
Piccaninny Creek Walk

Piccaninny Creek Walk is in my opinion misrepresented in almost all information
material that you find about the Bungles. You read everywhere that it is an overnight
hike. As a result few people even consider it.
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But you don't need to stay inside Piccaninny Gorge over night! Just walk as far as you
are happy to and then turn around. Easy! This is by far the most beautiful and most
rewarding walk in the Bungles.
Though it is admittedly NOT the easiest. You follow the eroded creek bed, sometimes
stepping from rock slab to rock slab and sometimes working your way through deep,
loose gravel. Most of the walk is very open and sunny and the further you go the
fewer slabs and the more gravel you find. But you also find jaw-droppingly beautiful
scenery: domes and cliffs, chasms and rock pools...
If you are fit and have the time to spend a full day you can walk as far as Black Rock
Pool, a big deep waterhole, nearly fully surrounded by towering black cliffs. It's the
most reliable water source on the way (boil or treat it before drinking), it's always
shady and the water is freezing!
If you want to camp here and continue on and explore the whole gorge system, you
need to register at the Purnululu National Park Visitor Centre. (Don't forget to deregister on your way out!)
The Sunset Lookout

Not far from the start of the Piccaninny Creek Walk a path branches off to the right,
which takes you to a lookout. (Some call it the Window Outlook. It is like a window
between the domes, looking out over the plain below.)
Even if you really don't have the time to walk along Piccaninny Creek, you should
make time for the lookout. It takes about half an hour to 45 minutes to get there.
Whip Snake Gorge

Another 20 minutes further along into Piccaninny Creek the Whipsnake Gorge
branches off. This gorge gives you some idea what happens amongst the domes
during the wet season. Look up into the trees and at the gauge marks on the rocks and
imagine the raging torrent that formed those. The gorge is narrow and at the right time
of the day cool and shady which is often welcome after the baking heat in the open
creek bed of Piccaninny. The walk ends at high rock walls, a little like a smaller
Cathedral Gorge, and earlier in the season there is still some water here to cool your
feet in. (The walk in takes a good hour so you may need to.) Again you have to
imagine the wet season falls coming down from the walls.
The Northern Area

The northern campground, Kurrajong, is only 7 km from the Visitor Centre. The two
walks in this part, Mini Palms Gorge and Echidna Chasm, are 12 km further on.
(Froghole Gorge has been closed to the public years ago.) This part of Purnululu looks
very different and you don't find the famous domes here.
Bloodwood and Mini Palms Gorge

The Froghole and Mini Palms site has been renamed into Bloodwood, but the walk
into the gorge is still called Mini Palms. Go figure.
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Mini Palms Walk

This 5 km return walk (allow 2 hrs) takes you over loose rocks in a riverbed into a
narrow, boulder strewn gorge filled with Bungle Bungle Fan Palms (a Livistona Palm
species that exists only here). The further you go the steeper the track becomes. You
have to squeeze through and clamber over boulders. It's a fun walk and not too hard
because there are stairs for the steepest parts.
You eventually reach a viewing platform overlooking a palm filled valley surrounded
by 150 m high cliffs. At the end of the valley is a cave. Tempting to look at, but the
climb to get down has been closed to protect the mini palms that cover the floor. (The
footprints are proof that many people ignore the signs.)
Echidna Chasm
This one is fun, too. And easier and shorter then Mini Palms (allow 1 1.5 hrs for the
2 km). Initially you walk through a palm filled gorge, but that soon becomes narrower
and narrower and then narrower still. Every now and then you have to climb over
boulders blocking the way, or duck under some that didn't quite make it to the floor
and are stuck above you, where you hope they'll stay until you're gone.
In the end you find yourself in a gap that's less than a metre wide, with walls so tall
that it's nearly completely dark at the bottom. Unless you can schedule this walk
around midday. Then you will see the walls above you glow in striking colours,
changing with the angle of the sun.
Walanginjdji or Kungkalanayi Sunset Lookout

The northern part of the Bungle Bungle has its own sunset lookout, too. (And
apparently it's been renamed into Kungkalanayi Lookout) It's only 2.5 km from the
Visitor Centre. A few minutes of walking take you to an area with several seats, so
you can enjoy wine and cheese while you watch the western escarpment catch on fire.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
1 Day Rush Around
From: Halls Creek/Warmun.
For: people who want to be able to say, "Been there, done that".
Leave Halls Creek very early in the morning. Arrive and register at the Visitor
Centre. (3-4 hours)
Drive to Piccaninny Creek car park (45 min) and walk into Cathedral Gorge via
Domes Walk (1.5 hours).

Enjoy lunch at Piccaninny Creek car park (very scenic).
For the wealthy: take a helicopter flight in the afternoon (arrange that from Visitor
Centre in the morning).
For the broke: drive to northern part of the park (1 hour) and take the Echidna Chasm
Walk (1 hour).
For those who were late in the morning: skip this part.
Watch sunset from Walanginjdji Lookout.
Leave Bungle Bungle and return to Halls Creek/Warmun (very late!). Skip lookout if
you'd rather not drive the access track in the dark.
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1 Night/1 Day Intense

From: Kununurra.
For: people with limited time who want to see everything.
Leave Kununurra after an early breakfast. Choose a scenic spot along the park access
track for lunch. Arrive and register at the Visitor Centre. (5-6 hours)
Take prearranged scenic helicopter flight.
Make your way to Kurrajong campsite and set up camp.
Enjoy sunset from Walanginjdji Lookout.
Next day: get going very early. After packing up your camp do the Mini Palms Walk
(2 hours) and the Echidna Chasm Walk (1 hour). Have lunch here or...
Drive to Piccaninny Creek car park (1 hour). Have lunch.
Walk into Cathedral Gorge via Domes Walk. (1.5 hours)
Head towards Piccaninny Creek. If you have the time left you can follow the creek
bed for a bit. Otherwise look for the turn off to the Window Lookout.
Leave Bungle Bungle and return to Halls Creek (very late!). Skip lookout if you'd
rather not drive the access track in the dark.
2 Days/1 Night Leisurely Exploration

Leave Halls Creek after breakfast. Arrive and register at the Visitor Centre. (3-4
hours)
Pick your camp site at Walardi. Have lunch.
Drive to Piccaninny Creek car park and walk into Cathedral Gorge via Domes Walk
(1.5 hours)
Head towards Piccaninny Creek. If you have some time left you can follow the creek
bed for a bit. Otherwise look for the turn off to the Sunset Lookout.
For the wealthy: take a helicopter flight in the morning (arrange that from Visitor
Center when you arrive).
For the broke: drive to northern part of the park and take the Mini Palms Walk (2
hours). Enjoy the Echidna Chasm Walk (1 hour) before or after lunch.
Leave Bungle Bungle and return to Halls Creek.
Two Nights/Two Days Leisurely Exploration

From: Kununurra.
For: keen bushwalkers.
Leave Kununurra after a leisurely breakfast. Choose a scenic spot along the park
access track for lunch. Arrive and register at the Visitor Centre. (5-6 hours)
Take prearranged scenic helicopter flight.
Make your way to the Walardi campsite and set up camp.
Enjoy the sunset from the site near the Walardi campground.
In the morning walk into Cathedral Gorge via Domes Walk (1.5 hours).
Walk up Piccaninny Creek as far as you like.
Have lunch somewhere along Piccaninny Creek.
Enjoy sunset from Windows Lookout.
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Next day: After packing up your camp drive to the northern part of the park (1 hour).
Do the Mini Palms Walk (2 hours).
Have lunch at either Echidna Chasm or Mini Palms car park. After lunch enjoy the
Echidna Chasm Walk (1 hour)
Leave Bungle Bungle and drive to Halls Creek or Kununurra.
Three Days/Two Nights (or longer) Exploration

For: bushwalking enthusiasts.
Leave Halls Creek/Warmun after breakfast. Arrive and register at the Visitor Centre.
(3-4 hours)
Have lunch at Echidna Chasm car park, before or after Echidna Chasm Walk (1
hour).
After Mini Palms Walk (2 hours) make your way to southern part of the park.
Spend the night at Walardi, enjoying the sunset from the site near the campground.
The next day, either:
Get going early and walk up Piccaninny Creek to Black Rock Pool. Have lunch there.
On your return walk watch the sunset from the Windows Lookout.
Spend another night at Walardi.
Walk into Cathedral Gorge very early in the morning (before everybody else gets
there).
After that pack up camp. Leave the Bungle Bungle.
Or:
Walk into Cathedral Gorge very early in the morning (before everybody else gets
there).
Continue your walk along Piccaninny Creek to Black Rock Pool or further. Spend the
night camping along Piccaninny Gorge and return the next day. (Or stay in the gorge
for two nights to explore the whole system).
Leave the park when you are ready.
From Kununurra:
If you are coming from Kununurra make your way to Walardi when you arrive. Start
your one or two day Piccaninny Creek hike the next morning as described above.
Visit Echidna Chasm and Mini Palms after another night at Walardi.
Those are just some ideas. Adapt these schedules to your needs and time frame.
See tour operators for Broome, Warmun and Kununurra for tours to the Bungles.
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WARMUN

198 km from Kununura
For most people Warmun, previously called Turkey Creek, is only another roadhouse.
However, two things are worth mentioning:
If you are towing you can leave your caravan or trailer here in a secure storage area
for a trip into the Bungles (t/o 80 km from here). A fee applies. And if you dont want
to drive you can take a helicopter flight over the Bungles from here.
Heliwork Warmun, 9162 7337 (9168 1811 Dec March), www.slingair.com.au
45/90 minute helicopter flights by the same operator as inside the park. $300/$600 pp for
three passengers, $375/$750 pp for two passengers.
The other thing worth pointing out is the excellent art outlet at the back of the
Warmun Aboriginal community near the roadhouse. It is open on week days from
9am to 4pm. Ask the roadhouse for information and directions. They can also ring
ahead for you to arrange a visit.
The Warmun Art Centre (and much of the Warmun community) was destroyed in a
flash flood on March 13, 2011. Rebuilding only started in November 2011. In the
meantime the gallery was housed in a loaned building near the highway. For a long
time it was not sure if Warmun could recover and be rebuilt, but one year after the
anniversary of the flood was celebrated with the reopening of the community's much
loved art centre.
Warmun Art Centre, 9168 7496, www.warmunart.com
Gallery open Mon Fri, 9am 4 pm, weekend visits by prior appointment.
Warmun Roadhouse, 9168 7882, www.warmunroadhouse.com.au
Self contained units $175, motel rooms $150, donga room $70, powered and unpowered
caravan sites ($35/$27), camp sites $15, caravan storage in secure compound $15, pool,
showers for travellers $3, sit down and take away meals, general store, postal facilities, no
alcohol license.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
Leycesters Rest is very close to the turn off to the Bungles, between Halls Creek
(100 km) and Warmun (62 km) on the Ord River. (It used to be called Ord River Rest
Area). There are several little tracks to get to camp sites away from the main rest area. If
the river is still flowing this is a nice spot to sit in the water.
Spring Creek Rest Area is even closer to the Bungles turn off, 106 km from Halls
Creek and 55 km from the Warmun. Its nice, shady, and early in the season there is
water in the creek. All that makes it a very popular overnight stop for travellers on their
way to the Bungles who want to save on camping fees.
Some travellers like it so much, they spend a lay over day or two. Towing a caravan?
You may get lucky here and find someone to look after it while you explore the Bungles
for a day.
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DOON DOON

The fairly new Doon Doon Roadhouse is operated by the local Aboriginal
Community. The offerings are limited: fuel, some basic supplies and camp sites.
Woolah Aboriginal Tag-along Tours at the nearby Doon Doon Station offer day
trips to the Dunham River gorges. Its a great day out with some rough driving to get
there (good fun and great for people who wouldnt do that kind of thing on their own).
Once you get to the river you can canoe the gorges (canoes provided) or do some
fishing and exploring. The tours are led by local Aboriginal guides and you need your
own 4WD vehicle. At this stage the elders havent decided what the price will be for
this season, so ring the roadhouse for more information once you get here.
Doon Doon Roadhouse, 9167 8004
Harry's Hole Deals Gorge

The official name of Harrys Hole is now Deals Gorge,
Harry's Hole is a series of crystal clear pools, cliff faces and waterfalls that take a full
day of swimming, climbing and walking to explore. It is magic. Unfortunately it has
been treated with very little respect in the past (littering and vandalism), with the result
that the indigenous owners had to restrict access.
An access fee applies, you also need to get a key to the gate from Doon Doon first and
pay a deposit. Camping is not permitted any longer, which is a real shame. However, I
do support the decision.
All I can say is, if you have the time it's well worth it. Get in touch with Doon Doon
early enough to find out about current prices (they havent decided yet) and regulations
and to express your interest, since they only allow a limited number of people in at a
time.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
A nice camping area that is well off the main road is located near a signposted Scenic
Lookout between Doon Doon (16 km) and the Victoria Highway intersection (45 km).
The road to the lookout runs parallel to the highway for several km. Its a loop road, so
there are two turn offs. People with big rigs may want to use the lookout area, but the
better camp site is found further on. Pass the lookout on your right and continue driving
until you see some Telstra buildings on the right. Just before that is a track on the left.
Thats it. 500 metres on you find some nice clearings in a scenic valley between the
ranges.
The Cockburn Rest Area is on the corner of the Victoria Highway intersection. Its not
very scenic, there isnt much shade and no water. Why so many people camp here is a
mystery to me, but they do.
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KUNUNURRA
ununurra is the name of the lively, booming town on the eastern edge of the
Kimberley. In the local Aboriginal dialect the name means "The Meeting Of
The Big Waters". An appropriate name indeed, as water is the most noticeable
feature of this region.
Countless gorges and waterfalls, several big tidal rivers, dozens of smaller streams
and creeks, Lake Kununurra and of course the huge expanse of Lake Argyle... The
vast majority of the attractions in and around Kununurra involve water, lots of water.
And water means life, both an amazing flora and abundant wildlife. (And of course
excellent fishing!)
Water is not the only reason the area is so attractive. The East Kimberley looks very
different from the Broome region. The country around Kununurra is a LOT more
scenic. A myriad of ranges and gorges and cliffs and escarpments No matter which
way you drive or look, the beauty of this region is astounding.
GETTING THERE
1040 km from Broome

825 km from Darwin.
Qantas offers direct flights from Perth to Kununurra at least weekly during the main
tourist season (May - September).
Virgin Blue flies Kununurra-Broome-Perth and sometimes directly between Perth
and Kununurra. They also fly to Darwin.
Airnorth flies from Darwin or Broome to Kununurra at least once a day, more often
during the tourist season. Also offers weekly flights from/to Perth.
If you are able to take a few days for the trip from Darwin, drive. The road between
Katherine and Kununurra is spectacular, especially in the Victoria River and Timber
Creek area.
The Very Short History

Gazetted in 1961, Kununurra is one of the youngest towns in Australia. It owes its
existence to an ambitious irrigation project, the Ord River Irrigation Scheme, a project
that changed the face of this region forever.
Kununurra is situated on the Ord River, one of the many tidal rivers that have carved up
the Kimberley Plateau. Our rivers are raging torrents through the wet season and all but
disappear during the dry. The Ord was no different, until 1963, when the first dam, the
Diversion Dam, was built.
If you approach Kununurra from the west you will drive over the Diversion Dam, with
Lake Kununurra to your right. It is located only a few kilometres south west of
Kununurra.
But the main project, the main dam on which everything in the region hinges, was built
50 km upstream and completed in 1972.
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The Main Ord Dam created Lake Argyle and is world famous. Lake Argyle now covers
an area of 1000 km2 (2100 km2 at maximum flood level). Imagine 27 times the volume
of Sydney Harbour (at maximum flood storage capacity) to get an idea of the massive
dimensions of this project.
The water is used to irrigate the Ord River farm lands around Kununurra. The first
handful of farmers and settlers arrived in late 1962. Back then the scheme was
considered a white elephant, the project of dreamers with their heads in the clouds.
Indeed, the early days did not see many successes. The climate here is characterised by
extremes, too wet or too dry, too hot or too cold, depending on the time of the year.
Many crops were tested but had to be abandoned. Even if something grew it wasn't easy
to make money. The long distances from and to the markets mean farmers are hit twice
with massive freight costs.
But the people who hung in there and didn't give up did well in the end. They figured
things out. Over the last ten to fifteen years Kununurra simply exploded. One of the
youngest and fastest growing towns in Australia, it is now a lively hub for the tourism,
farming and mining industry in the East Kimberley.
Today 13,000 hectares are under irrigation, with plans to expand the eventual growing
area to 43,000 hectares. Kununurra has become the tropical fruit bowl of Australia.
The main crops have changed over the years and keep changing. Bananas have all but
disappeared. (You can not make money if they get blown over every year.) Melons and
pumpkins have remained a constant mainstay. Mangoes were the up and coming crop of
the last five to ten years, with many big plantations only now coming into full
production. Citrus, mainly grapefruit, are not far behind.
Cotton disappeared, but genetically modified cotton varieties may yet bring it back.
Sugar used to be a huge crop, but falling world prices and delay of the expansion of the
Ord scheme meant the last cane billet was crushed in November 2007. The mill is now
mothballed. Sandalwood is all the rage and plantations of it have sprung up all over the
valley. Kununurra was predicted to be the worlds largest sandalwood supplier by 2012!
Those are just some of the immediately obvious crops you'll see as you drive through
the valley. There are many more. And backpackers on a working holiday take note:
Kununurra is also the best place in Australia to look for fruit picking jobs!
The Main Ord Dam also supplies hydro power to Kununurra, to the port town of
Wyndham and to the Argyle Diamond Mine, which is another main pillar of the local
economy.
With the expansion of the Ord Irrigation scheme in the future, with more mines opening
up across the Kimberley and with the Kimberley's increasing popularity as a tourism
destination, there is no sign that this white elephant will stop growing at record rates any
time soon.
GETTING AROUND
Several of the major car hire companies have depots in Kununurra. Note that you can
not hire a campervan from Kununurra! You can hire 4WDs, trailers and equipment.
Avis Kimberley, Coolibah Dr, 9169 1258, www.avis.com.au
Budget Rent a Car, Konkerberry Dr and Airport, 9168 2033, www.budget.com.au
Hertz, Airport, 9169 1424, www.hertz.com.au
Thrifty Car Rentals, Bandicoot Dr, 9169 1911 or 1800 626 515, www.thrifty.com.au
Kununurra Kamper Hire, Whimbrel Rd, 9169 3444 or 0417 948 060,
www.kununurrakamperhire.com
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Kununurra has a lot to offer, no matter what you are interested in. Fishing, swimming,
nature, Aboriginal art, boat cruises, canoeing, four wheel driving, hiking, caving and
abseiling. A range of industries is situated in the valley and nearby. Several of the
businesses offer tours and insights into their operations.
Town Area
The best starting point is Kununurra's Visitor Centre (75 Coolibah Drive, 9168 1177).
The friendly staff have answers to all your questions and a huge range of maps,
brochures and detailed information on absolutely everything that might interest
tourists.
To get a good overview of the area climb up Kelly's Knob. Actually, you can drive
most of the way. Only the last bit is a rocky path with steps and handrails, all the way
up to the lookout at 191 metres height. From up here you have great views of the
town, the irrigation areas and farmlands, the Diversion Dam, Kununurra airport, the
nearby ranges and the lake.
Come to think of it, Kelly's Knob is probably the best place to finish a day's sight
seeing. Grab some cheese and wine before you go to enjoy the sunset.
Kununurra has several art galleries. The Lovell Diversion Gallery (144 Konkerberry
Dr, opposite Tuckerbox) has a range of works of local artists. For Aboriginal art try
Our Land Gallery (10 Papuana St), also not far from the centre, Red Rock Art
(50 Coolibah Dr) and Waringarri Aboriginal Arts (Speargrass Rd, near Kelly's Knob).
Two more galleries worth visiting are Birdland Functional Art and Kimberley Boab
Creations (both in Poincettia Way).
Kununurra, being so close to the Argyle Diamond Mine, is of course the best place to
look at diamonds. Kimberley Fine Diamonds opposite the shopping centre
(Konkerberry Dr) has one of Australia's biggest selections of coloured diamonds,
including pink diamonds. Those are so rare that most people will probably never see
one. The Argyle mine is the only mine in the world that produces them.
Another place to browse and shop for diamonds is Nina's Jewellery inside the
shopping centre.
The best place for Kimberley rock art, including the rare Zebra Rock, is Mick
Long's Rockalong (Bandicoot Drive). Longy (as we call him) has by far the biggest
range of absolutely stunning pieces made from several types of local rock that he
mines himself.
You can also find his creations and loads of other stuff, including fresh, locally grown
fruit and vegetables, at Paddy's Markets. The markets are held 8am - 1pm every
Saturday during the dry season in Whitegum Park.
Mirima National Park

The 2068 ha Mirima National Park also called Hidden Valley is right on the edge
of Kununurra, virtually still in town. The 350 million year old sandstone formations
resemble the domes of the famous Bungles. They were formed at the same time,
through the same weathering conditions. Because of the similarities they are
sometimes called Mini Bungles.
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To get there drive east on Barringtonia Ave and follow the signs. Vehicle entry into
the park attracts a fee ($12 per vehicle, unless you own a parks pass), but you can
leave the car outside the gate and take the foot path. It's a beautiful 1 km walk
following a narrow valley.
Near the parking area inside the park is an information bay, a picnic shelter and a map
that explains the three short walks that start from here.
Demboong banan gap trail: 500 m return, leads through a narrow valley to a
gap with views towards Kununurra
Derdbe-gerring banam lookout trail: 800 metre return climb (mostly stairs) up
onto a lookout. Great views over the Kununurra Valley to one side and over
the Hidden Valley domes on the other side.
A 400 metre circular botanical walk identifies some of the common plants in
the area.
Hidden Valley is particularly beautiful in the afternoon when the low sun makes the
rocks glow. But don't leave it too late or most of the valleys will be in deep shade.
Mirima National Park is a day use area only. No camping.
South of Kununurra
The Ord River Diversion Dam is located on the main highway, six kilometres west of
Kununurra.
Above the dam (turn left before you get to the dam) you find Lake Kununurra,
which is popular for swimming, boating and water skiing.
You can join a boat tour to cruise up the river to the main dam at Lake Argyle, take a
sunset cruise, or you can paddle a canoe from the main dam back to Kununurra. See
the tour operator listings for details.
If you want to launch your own boat use the boat ramp near Kimberleyland Caravan
Park entrance (on the highway, at the edge of town).
Below the dam (cross dam and turn right at the information bay) is the Lions Park
boat ramp, where you can launch your dinghy to cruise the Ord River below the dam.
And if you are a fisherman you will. Bandicoot Bar, the rock bar just below the dam,
is a top spot for barra fishing. So is the mouth of the Dunham River, which joins the
Ord River just a little bit below the boat ramp.
Don't even think about swimming anywhere below the dam! You'd end up as croc
dinner for sure.
If you cross the dam and take the next road to your left you find yourself on the
Packsaddle Plains, one of the main farming areas: sandalwood plantations, mango
orchards, citrus, melons and more.
Nine kilometres along that road is the Zebra Rock Gallery. They do exhibit and sell
Zebra Rock, but the Zebra Rock Gallery is also a nice place to visit and have a cuppa,
a mango smoothie or a cool drink in their garden. If you have kids go down to their
jetty and hand feed the hundreds of catfish waiting there.
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Another reason to drive out that way is the Sleeping Buddha or Elephant Rock, a
big rock formation on Lake Kununurra. (The official name is Carlton Ridge.) It looks
most like a sleeping Buddha if viewed from town, but to see the elephant you have to
cruise up the river or drive along Packsaddle Road. It looks elephant-iest from near
the Zebra Rock Gallery.
Andy's Chasm
This one is not for the faint of heart. You want to be fit and adventurous. You need a
4WD to get there, then you're in for a hot and difficult walk, then you have to find it and
then its a challenging climb through several waterfalls, up smooth cliff faces etc. Oh,
and its a wet season destination.
At the top of the chasm you find a paradise that few people have seen to date, for all the
above reasons. Most of the people who do find Andy's Chasm chicken out at the first
waterfall, the rest at the third.(Andy's Chasm is responsible for broken bones and worse.
It's ok to chicken out, and don't say I didn't warn you.)
To get there follow Packsaddle Road to the end of the bitumen and veer right. After
2 km you see a gate and some sheds. That's the old abattoir. Drive through it.
Just keep following the track on the other side. There may be junctions and other tracks
branching off it. Stick to the main track and if that's not obvious stick to the left.
Eventually you get to a gravel creek bed. Turn left and drive up the creek as far as
possible (not far) and leave your car there. Start walking, just follow the creek bed.
The walk takes about 30 to 45 minutes. When the climb ends, the country levels and you
see another valley branch off to the left, stick to the right. Just stay on the right hand side
of the water. Eventually you come to a big smooth boulder to climb over, you need to
duck under some trees behind it and then you are standing in front of it: a small gravelly
beach and a narrow gap in the rock wall. You would never suspect it's there until you
see it.
Leave your stuff at the beach and start swimming. And climbing. If you do make it
through the first set of gorges and falls you can give yourself a pat on the back and leave
it at that, or you can continue exploring. There is a second, much narrower chasm if you
just follow the creek straight ahead. It's much easier to climb through and a huge colony
of the rare splendid green tree frogs (Litoria splendida) live here.
Or you veer left to find a pristine little pool with a white sandy beach and a broad
waterfall cascading down the wide cliff face at the back. It's so picture perfect that you
wonder if it's real. And there is something special in the air, this very powerful sense of
remoteness and isolation that you only get in a place that is truly untouched by humans.
Visit at your own risk! Andy's Chasm is responsible for broken bones and worse.
North of Kununurra
Ivanhoe Road crosses more farmland. It used to be covered in mainly sugar cane and
some mangoes. The cane has now been replaced by melons and sandalwood. A turn
off to the left takes you to River Farm Road, a picturesque area on the lower Ord
River. If you are rich you can buy yourself a million dollar mansion with river
frontage here.
The popular Barra Barra Bananas caf used to be here, but unfortunately it closed.
Most people now visit the cafe at Ivanhoe Farm instead (just out of town on Ivanhoe
Road), or the Salad Bowl Cafe a bit further on Research Station road (sign posted).
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At the end of Riverfarm Road is another little gallery, Top Rockz, which sells rocks
and jewellery crafted from local materials (not necessarily by local or even Australian
artists).
Ivanhoe Crossing is the place where Ivanhoe Road crosses the Ord River. This used
to be the main and only road to Wyndham in the old days! (The old Parry Creek Road,
as its named on the other side of the crossing, is still a great drive to Wyndham and is
covered below.) The crossing is another good place to try for barramundi. (It's also a
great place to collect free lures that people lose on all the snags there.)
The crossing is impassable during the wet season and for a while after. Once you can
drive across again it becomes a popular spot for locals to sit in the natural spas below
the crossing with a cold beer on a hot afternoon. You're welcome to join us. (Be aware
that saltwater crocodiles live further downstream and that a local was bitten by a big
freshwater crocodile here in 2006. I do not guarantee anything.)
From Ivanhoe Road you can follow Research Station Road, past the Frank Wise
Institute (research institution of the Department of Agriculture, no tours, but
welcomes visitors), to get to Weaber Plains Road. Weaber Plains is the third main
irrigation and farming area of Kununurra.
Spike Deserts Hoochery is about 15 km out of town (1 km beyond the Stock Route Rd
intersection). It is WAs only licensed distillery, producing Ord River Rum from
locally grown cane. (Spike still grows some and mills it himself, now that the big mill
is closed.) You can tour the distillery and sample and buy their range of products.
Nearby, about 1 km closer to town and opposite the above mentioned turn off is the
new Sandalwood Factory. Though called factory it's actually a showroom where you
can learn more about sandalwood farming and processing. (The company that runs it
is the TFS Mt. Romance Sandalwood Factory, hence the name.) The show room is
very slick, with countless nice smelling things to buy, along with treatments for every
ailment known to man, and repellents for every bug.
About 12 kilometres out of town you find the remnants of the Kununurra Sugar
Mill. The mill closed down in November 2007 and is gradually being dismantled.
The City Of Ruins is just four kilometres out of town on Weaber Plains road. (Park
your car somewhere opposite Pardalote Close/Whimbrel Road and follow the tracks from
there.) It's an area of unusual sandstone formations that are supposed to resemble the
remains of an ancient city. I can't see a city but it's a nice area nevertheless, great for
bushwalking, especially in the afternoons when the rocks glow in their most intense
colours, and provided you have the time to walk far enough out the back.
Between Kununurra and Wyndham

Middle Springs and Black Rock Falls are located not far from each other (on a
Kimberley scale, that is) along Parry Creek Road. There are two ways of getting
there. No matter which one you take, you should have a 4WD.
The short way is to follow Ivanhoe Road and cross the Ord River at Ivanhoe
Crossing (provided the crossing is open). After the crossing go straight ahead until
you see the sign to turn left for Middle Springs. The turn off for Black Rock is a few
kilometres further still towards Wyndham, also on the left.
The longer way is to follow the Victoria Highway in the direction of Wyndham,
across the Diversion Dam and over the Dunham River jump up. 10 km from
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Kununurra you see a sign to Valentine Springs/Black Rock/Middle Springs and a

turn-off to the right. Follow it for 14 km to the T-intersection at the end. Ivanhoe
Crossing is now to your right, Middle Springs and Black Rock to your left.
The track into Middle Springs is very sandy and requires a four wheel drive. During
the dry season you may be able to reach Black Rock in a two wheel drive if you're
game (though there are some sandy spots that may be too soft). During the wet it's
four wheel drive access only and after heavy rains you won't be able to get anywhere
at all.
Middle Springs is a big pool with a grassy edge, nice for picnics and popular with
families. During and just after the wet season you find a serious of smaller pools and
waterfalls above the main pool. To get to them climb up the path to the left of the
main fall. It's worth it, even when the falls are dry, for the great views over the valley.
Black Rock is a small but fairly deep pool surrounded by tall black cliffs. The
waterfall dries up quickly, but the water at the bottom will be there for a long time.
And it's a pretty place anyway.
Valentine Springs flows only during the wet season. Follow the same driving
directions as for getting to Middle Springs/Black Rock Falls via the highway.
Valentine Springs is sign posted, but even without the sign you can't miss it, because
you would have to cross it anyway. Valentine Springs is not really a waterfall. Rather
it's a small set of rapids and a shallow and often very warm pool. But it's nice because
it's so close to town and easy to get to.
Molly Springs is a gorgeous little spring fed pool and waterfall about 30 km out of
Kununurra, along the highway. Emphasis is on little. The pool is tiny, but it's a lovely
shady place to sit in the water and watch the fish and goannas and birds. This place is
very popular with the locals as it's not so well known by the tourists yet. And since it
is a spring the waterfall is there all year.
I think the turn-off still isn't sign posted, so look for a track on your right, 1 km after
crossing Yearling Creek, 30 km from Kununurra. Molly Springs is a few kilometres
off the road.
The Grotto is the best known waterfall near Kununurra. It's actually much closer to
Wyndham (30km) than to Kununurra (70km). It's a good place to stop for a swim
after a visit to Wyndham. The turn off is sign posted and the road is all sealed.
The Grotto is a large and deep rock pool enclosed by huge, vertical cliffs. There are
140 steps, part concrete, part rock, that take you down to the permanent waterhole. No
handrail, so watch your kids! Moss and bizarrely shaped tree roots adorn the walls and
you can often see goannas on the rock ledges.
Some of the ledges are tempting to jump from, but beware of submerged rocks. Do a
dive around the area first. Using the Tarzan rope is safe. (As safe as a Tarzan rope can
be). The waterfall is obviously most spectacular during the wet. It keeps flowing and
then trickling for a while after, but even after it has dried up the bottomless pool is
always there. It does, however, get a bit grotty towards the end of the dry.
If you like exploring, follow the creek and look for Aboriginal art on the rock faces.
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Argyle Diamond Mine

The Rio Tinto owned Argyle Diamond Mine185 km south of Kununurrais the
world's largest single producer of diamonds. It used to be the only place in the world
where you can find the extremely rare pink diamonds. (A pink diamond was found in
2007 at the Ellendale project, West Kimberley.)
Production at ADM started over 20 years ago as a combination of alluvial (1983) and
open pit mining (1985). The alluvial deposit has since been exhausted. Mining in the
2 km by 1 km open pit continues, but the days of the pit are numbered, too. (2008 was
supposed to see the end of it, but a low grade operation continued.)
ADM hopes that the new billion dollar underground operation will extend the life of the
mine until 2018, maybe even 2024.
Open pit mining extracted between 60 and 80 million tonne of material a year,
containing between 25 and 30 million carats. 90% of those diamonds are used for
jewellery. The underground diamond output is expected to be only 50% of those levels.
The ADM lease occupies the traditional lands of the Gidja and Mirriuwung people.
When ADM renegotiated the lease contract in 2005 the traditional owners made it a
condition that ADM commit to creating employment opportunities for indigenous
people and to improving the economic and social prospects of the Aboriginal
community. The aim of ADM is to have a 50% indigenous workforce.
To visit the Argyle Diamond Mine you need to join a tour, obviously you can't just
walk in and out of a place like that.
The Kununurra based operator Slingair offers a fly drive tour that incorporates the
Ord River irrigation area, Lake Argyle, the Bungles with a landing and ground tour
at Argyle Diamond Mine
Slingair, 9169 1300 or 1800 095 500, www.slingair.com.au
Bungles scenic air safari and Argyle Diamond Mine ground tour, 9am-3.30pm, $725pp.
El Questro Station
El Questro is a huge former cattle station at the beginning of the Gibb River Road.
Though they didnt give up cattle farming altogether the main focus of the station now
lies on upmarket tourism instead. The land they own is spectacular.
To make the most of it you need to stay overnight at El Questro itself. If you stay in
the accommodation this can get a bit pricey, but they also have two campgrounds.
A couple of the well known attractions at El Questro, namely Zebedee Springs and
Emma Gorge, can be visited in a day tour from Kununurra. You could also visit El
Questro Gorge as a day tour, or take a cruise on the Chamberlain Gorge, but you
can't see all of them in one day and drive back to Kununurra.
Anyway, you need to buy a permit to go. Best get it from their booking office in
Kununurra before you go (next door to the visitor centre), that will save you the
detour to the station township at El Questro. You can also buy a permit at Emma
Gorge Resort.
For more details on the walks and attractions at El Questro see Part IV: The Gibb
River Road.
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Events
Ord Valley Muster
The 2014 Ord Valley Muster will be on from May 16 25. The tradition of the
Muster began in 2001 when it was nothing more than a one night dinner event for
local businesses. It has since grown into two weeks of community based events
showcasing the region. Most popular is the Kimberley Moon Experience (May 24),
an open air festival headlined by a big act, this year including Eskimo Joe, The Waifs,
Joe Williamson, 42 Decibel and more.
See the detailed program for the whole muster and find out how to get tickets here:
www.ordvalleymuster.com

Kununurra Visitor Centre
Coolibah Drive (East Kimberley Tourism House)
Open: (Apr-Sep) Mon-Sat 8am-5pm, Sun 9am-3pm , (Oct-Mar) Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat 9am12 noon, Sun closed.
Ph: 9168 1177 or 1800 586 868, Fax: 9168 2598
info@visitkununurra.com, www.visitkununurra.com
Internet
Northern IT Services/Kimnet, Coolibah Dr, 9169 2257
(Look for the big orange Grunt sign opposite the Post Office. They are under that.)
Post Office, Coolibah Dr, 9168 1395
Kununurra Hospital, Coolibah Dr, 9166 4222
ACCOMMODATION
The rates quoted below are generally for two people, for the most basic rooms
available, at peak season. Shoulder season (April/May and October) is often cheaper
and you can get real bargains between November and March.
Exclusive and Remote

Kimberley Coastal Camp, Admiralty Gulf, 0417 902 006,
www.kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au
The very remote and exclusive camp can be accessed by air from Kununurra or the Mitchell
Plateau and even from Broome or Darwin. (Transfer to Mitchell Plateau and helicopter flight
from there). Gazebo style rooms with view over the gulf, 12 guest max, pool, boating and
fishing (7.5 metre vessel + smaller boats), walking trails... Check prices yourself if you dare.
Faraway Bay, Diamond Coast, 0419 918 953, www.farawaybay.com.au
Remote, exclusive bush camp accessible only by air. Eight secluded bush cabins on the coast
with views over the bay, cliff top freshwater pool, boating and fishing, one hole golf course
Check the prices yourself if you dare.
All Seasons Kununurra/Accor Ibis Styles, Cnr Victoria Hwy/Messmate Way, 9168 4000,
www.all-seasons-hotels.com
Standard offerings, bar, restaurant, pool, airport shuttle. Some rates include continental
breakfast and 15 min internet. Rooms from $180.
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Country Club Hotel Kununurra, Coolibah Dr, 9168 1024 or 1800 808 999,
www.kununurracountryclub.com.au
Central location, in a veritable tropical jungle, reminiscent of colonial era set up. Rooms and
two bedroom apartments, two restaurants, great bar overlooking pool and tennis court, airport
shuttle. Rooms from $255.
Kununurra Lakeside Resort, Casuarina Way, 9169 1092 or 1800 786 692,
www.lakeside.com.au
A bit out of town, on the shore of the lagoon. A la carte restaurant, take away, bistro and bar,
al fresco dining, air port shuttle. Motel rooms ($205) or self catering rooms ($185), well
looked after.
Hotel Kununurra, Messmate Way, 9168 0400 or 1800 450 993,
www.hotelkununurra.com.au
Was the first hotel in town. Central location, restaurant, bar, pub with sports TAB and beer
garden, rooms are separate from pub building, around courtyard with pool, airport shuttle,
budget (single and double/twin) and standard rooms. Budget from $130, standard rooms from
$180.
The Kimberley Grande, Victoria Hwy, 9166 5688, 9193 8340 or 1800 746 282,
www.thekimberleygrande.com.au
The newest hotel in town, on the highway to the east of town, restaurant, bistro and
sportsmans bar, pool, airport shuttle. From $240.
Self Contained
Lakeview Apartments, 9168 0000, www.lakeviewapartments.net
1 km from town centre on the highway, overlooking Lily Lagoon, pool. One ($230), two
($280) and three bedroom ($380) apartments.
Freshwater East Kimberley Apartments, 9169 2010,
http://www.freshwaterapartments.net.au/
Kununurra's newest and only 4.5 star accommodation option, On the highway, overlooking
Lily Lagoon. One ($249), two ($313) and three bedroom ($399) apartments, pool with BBQ
facilities. Nice quirk: the 1 and 3 BR apartments have an outdoor shower (in addition to the
usual indoor bathroom).

Kimberley Croc Backpackers YHA, Cnr Konkerberry Dr/Tristania St, 9168 2702 or 1300
163 702, www.kimberleycroc.com.au
Previously Desert Inn Backpackers. On main road, opposite Tuckerbox supermarket and close
to centre, pool and range of rooms. Courtesy bus to Kellys Knob for sunsets. YHA, dorm bed
from $28, rooms from $95.
Kimberley Croc Lodge, Riverfig Ave, 9168 2702 or 1300 163 702,
www.kimberleycroc.com.au
Used to be the Kimberley Court Motel & Backpackers, now same owner as Croc
Backpackers. Central location behind shopping centre, range of rooms, courtyard and pool.
Long term accommodation in 5 bed dorms for $155/week, rooms $395/week. Reception at
Croc Backpackers.
Kununurra Backpackers Adventure Centre, Nutwood Cres, 9169 1998 or 1800 641 998,
www.adventure.kimberley.net.au
A bit away from the centre, near Kellys Knob, in older, residential part of town. From
backpackers for backpackers. Range of dorms and rooms. Courtesy bus to Kellys Knob for
sunsets. Also organise self guided canoe tours on the Ord. Dorm beds from $25, rooms from
65$, VIP/YHA discounts and weekly/monthly rates available.
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Camping
Hidden Valley Tourist Park, Weaber Plain Rd, 9168 1790,
www.hiddenvalleytouristpark.com
As the name suggests, the park borders on Hidden Valley National Park. Beautiful views,
shady and well kept grounds, on site cabins, pool, kiosk, bike hire. Camping rates provided on
enquiry. Cabins $125. Also offer caravan storage.
Ivanhoe Village Caravan Resort (Big 4), Cnr Coolibah/Ivanhoe Rd, 9169 1995,
www.ivanhoevillageresort.com
On the opposite side of town, grassed, shaded and canopied sites, ensuite sites, annex pads,
playground, pool. Unpowered camping $16, powered site $38, ensuite site $48, cabins from
$120.
Kimberleyland Holiday Park, Victoria Hwy, 9168 1280 or 1800 681 280,
www.kimberleyland.com.au
Located on the lake, 10 min walk from town, boat ramp, canoe hire, pool, waterfront cabins
with great views from $135, powered site $39, tent site $15pp.
Discovery Holiday Park, Lakeview Dr, 9168 1031 or 1800 648 112,
www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au
Nice bush setting on the lake, dinghy and canoe hire, pool. Villas, bungalows, park homes and
cabins. Accommodation from $169 to $264. Powered and unpowered sites ($38/$35).
Minimum stays apply during peak season.
Kununurra Lakeside Caravan Park, Casuarina Way, 9169 1092 or 1800 786 692,
www.lakeside.com.au
Also located on the lake but well out of town. Part of the Lakeside Resort (see hotel listings).
Powered and unpowered sites ($34/$30), cabins ($165). Pets allowed. Dogs must be on leash
at all times.
Kununurra Town Caravan Park, cnr Konkerberry/Bloodwood Dr, 1800 500 830 or 9168
1763, www.townpark.com.au
Most central caravan park, only a two minute walk from the shopping centre or pub.
Accommodation in deluxe villas ($170/$230), villas ($160) or studios ($150), powered
campsite $35.
The Kununurra Agricultural Society Inc offers short term and some long term sites for
travellers with pets or very large rigs: 9168 2885, www.kas.org.au/caravan-park.html
Free bbq, ablution with free laundry, $35 per night for two people, dog bond.
The Zebra Rock Gallery on Packsaddle Rd. offers caravan storage facilities: 9168 1114
FREE BUSHCAMPING
Two sites are located along the lower Ord River, accessible via Parry Creek Road.
Buttons Crossing is an authorized bush camping area on the banks of the Ord River.
Locals come down here to fish and not for the scenery. From the Valentine Springs
Road/Parry Creek Road intersection near Ivanhoe Crossing its about 4 km to the turn
off to Buttons Crossing. Turn right, its a few hundred metres down to the water and
there are many suitable sites to pitch a tent. You can also launch a boat from here.
Mambi Island is another popular fishing/camping site and boat ramp on the Ord and is
a lot more scenic. Its also further from Kununurra. The signposted turn off (boat ramp
sign) is 31.5 km from the Valentine Spring Road/Parry Lagoon Road intersection. The
camping area is 300 metres off the main road. The river is wide and deep and clear here
and you can motor all the way down to the mouth of the Ord.
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EATING OUT
All the hotels listed above have restaurants.
Kellys Bar & Grill, Coolibah Dr, 9168 1024, www.kununurracountryclub.com.au
Kellys Bar & Grill at the Country Club does breakfasts, lunch and dinner, the courtyard is a
very nice place to sit and the menu is modern Australian. The attached Chinese restaurant is
called Chopsticks.
Durack Room Steakhouse/Sails Restaurant, Casuarina Way, 9169 1092 or 1800 786 692,
www.lakeside.com.au
The two restaurants of the Lakeside Resort. The Steakhouse has indoor seating, the Sails Bar
and Restaurant is outdoors and open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nice location and does
specials during the week (pasta nights, schnitzel nights, also fish&chips.)
Hotel Kununurra, Messmate Way, 9168 0400, www.hotelkununurra.com.au
The pub serves rMatso's Broome Brewery beer and reasonable counter meals. I have only had
excellent meals at the attached Zebra Rock Restaurant, but some people had disappointing
experiences, mainly in the off season (probably when the chef takes a well deserved holiday).
Pump House Restaurant, Lakeview Drive, 9169 3222, www.thepumphouserestaurant.com
The old pump house on the shore of Lake Kununurra has been converted into an excellent
restaurant. Great atmosphere, great food, and a great place to watch the famous Kununurra
sunsets. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Highly recommended.
Gullivers Bistro and George Room, Cottontree Ave, 9168 1666
The bistro is part of the second main pub in town, Gullivers Tavern. Usually excellent meals,
especially the seafood.
The Boab Bookshop and Caf (formerly Stars in the Kimberley), Papuana St, 9169 2574
Has changed hands. Not sure the bookshop will re-open. The cafe serves the usual favourites
like mango smoothies and ice cream..
Rumours Caf, prime location in the shopping centre, 9168 2071
Breakfast, snacks and lunch, large selection of rolls, sandwiches, wraps, bagels and even more
sweets, hot take away food, ice cream. Number one morning break/lunch stop for
Kununurras working population.
Kimberley Asian Cuisine Restaurant, Coolibah Dr, 9169 3698
Next to the tourist information, lunches, dinners and take aways. Usually good value.
Valentine's Pizzeria, Cottontree Ave, 9169 1167
Only take away. Fresh pizza delivery (typical Aussies pizzas, not authentic Italian!) and some
Mexican food.
Ivanhoe Cofee & Lunch Bar, Ivanhoe Road, 9168 1774
Only just out of town, serving meals, sandwiches and rolls, home made cakes and ice creams,
and selling fresh fruit & veg in season.
The BBQ Boat, 0409 681 716, www.thebbqboat.com.au
For something different, try the bbq dinner cruise on the BBQ Boat. (If there is one, the boat
is very popular with locals, who charter it for just about any function and party that comes
up.) Transfer from accommodation included. $75 pp, child $35, BYO drinks. (Also does
breakfast, morning and sunset cruises.)
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Drinking and Partying

The two main places to head for on a Friday or Saturday night are Gullivers Tavern (more
tourists) and the Kununurra Hotel (more locals).
TOURS
Kununura Scenic Bus Tours, 0437 058 673, www.ksbt.com.au
Ord Valley Tour (3 hrs, departs 9am, $89 adults, $35 children, $225 family). Small groups
(12 max), fully commented and provides lots of background info about the irigation and
farming in the valley as well as taking in all the scenic attractions.
2K Tours, 9168 1314, 0427 633 455 or 0428 633 455, www.2ktours.com.au
3 5 hr tours of the Ord River Scheme, Diversion Dam, Lake Argyle, Kununurra and
Wyndham. 3 hrs $80, children $40, 5 hrs $120, children $80. Very informative website for
those interested in more information about the Ord River Irrigation Scheme.
4WD Tours
East Kimberley Tours, 9168 2213, www.eastkimberleytours.com.au
This well established and reliable operator offers a range of small group fly/drive tours from
one day express Bungle Bungle tours to 2 day/2 nights combining hiking in the Bungles with
scenic flights over the Ord River, Lake Argyle and the Argylde Diamond Mine.
Recommended by readers.
Scenic Flights
Fixed wing plane flights from Kununurra to the Bungles also give you a look at Lake
Argyle and the Argyle Diamond Mine. The round flight takes two to two and a half
hours. You can combine it with a stay in the park to make it a full day, or even stay
over night.
Kingfisher Tours, 9168 1333, kingfishertours.net
Kununurra area, Bungles (2 hr, $330), King George Falls (3+hr, $690), Mitchell Falls (3+hr,
$690), Kalumburu stopover (4 hr, $845).
Slingair Heliwork, 9166 9300 or 1800 095 500, www.slingair.com.au
Slingair is the fixed plane division, Heliwork the helicopter division. Huge variety of flights
over Lake Argyle, the diamond mine, the Bungles, other fly-drive and plane-helicopter
combos throughout the Kimberley.
Shoal Air, 9169 3554, www.shoalair.com
Used to offer tours, now a charter company. Flexible schedules, customised tours on request,
optional landings and ground tours also possible.
Boat/Canoe Tours
Lake Argyle Cruises, 9168 7687, www.lakeargylecruises.com
Sunset ($120/$80 children) and full day "best of Lake Argyle" cruises ($185/$115) on Lake
Argyle with transfer from/to Kununurra.(All cruises also available from Lake Argyle.)
Fishing and birdwatching tours also available.
Triple J Tours, 9168 2682, www.triplejtours.net.au
Variety of options: full day tour starting from Kununurra, cruising up the river to the main
dam. Includes lunch, visit to the museum, bus transfer back. Or take the bus to Lake Argyle
and cruise down the river. Also available are one way cruises in both directions or cruising up
AND down the river. Not all tours depart every day. Combinations from $175.
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Go Wild Adventure Tours, 1300 663 369, www.gowild.com.au

"Eco-noeing" trips from one to three days on the Ord River, starting from the Argyle dam. All
tours are certified as Eco-tours by Ecotourism Australia. The one day trip is combined with a
boat pick up at 2 pm (at wherever you made it to, they'll find you) and a guided bushwalk.
Transfers, camping kit, maps etc. included. You can also add an optional day of abseiling and,
if you get at least four people together, a 120 m flying fox across Carlton Gorge. Rockclimbing and caving tours are also on the menu.
For coastal cruises and fishing see Look Sea Tours in the Wyndham listings.
Fishing
Ultimate Adventures, 9168 2310, www.barramundiadventures.com.au
Greg Harman, also known as Hairy Dog, has shown people how to catch barra since 1988.
His bush camp is in a great location on the Ord River from where you explore the lower
reaches of the river by boat with one of the guides. Lots of fish, lots of wildlife, no hassles, no
problems.
Mackas Barra Camp, 02 9571 6399 or 1300 790 561, www.mackasbarra.com.au
Located on the other side of the Ord River on Carlton Hill Station.
One Tree Beach, 9193 5689, www.kimberleyfishing.com
Robert "Bluey" Vaughans famous fishing camp is on the eastern side of the Admiralty Gulf.
Access by plane from Kununurra or helicopter from the Mitchell Plateau.
Other
The Kimberley Specialists, Kachana Station, 9168 2576, www.kimberleyspecialists.com.au
Kachana Station is an 77,500 ha property at the Chamberlain River, previously part of El
Questro, now an eco-tourism resort accessible by air from Kununurra. Tours are led by an
Aboriginal guide and an archaeologist and include some great art sites.
Williss Walkabouts, 8985 2134, www.bushwalkingholidays.com.au
For the serious bushwalker. The single best way to see this country, but you need to be fit,
have done some serious long distance hiking before and take some time.
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WYNDHAM
he port town of Wyndham home to only a few hundred people is located

100 km north of Kununurra, which makes it Western Australia's northernmost
town. It is also the oldest town in the Kimberley region. I find it an intriguing
place, but I've always been attracted by places that have a somewhat desolate feel
about them. Many tourists disagree.
Wyndham's history dates back as far as the 1880s when Wyndham served as a landing
port for prospectors during the gold rushes. (Compare that to Kununurra, which was
founded in the 1960s.)
Wyndham sits on the edge of the Cambridge Gulf and salt lakes and tidal mudflats
dominate the landscapes. Five Rivers Lookout is a great place to see the Gulf and the
five huge tidal rivers draining into it, especially around sunset.
There are many historical sites to visit in Wyndham, the crocodile farm, and a bit
outside Wyndham the prison boab, the Moochalabra Dam and the Grotto. A trip to
Wyndham can also be combined with a visit to Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve. (See
below.)
If you like the bush, fishing and camping then the King River Road and the old
Karunjie Road are worth exploring (4WD only). If you are limited to sealed roads
then one day should be enough for Wyndham.
The first thing you'll notice as you reach the Wyndham town entrance is the Big
Croc. Fear not, it's only concrete. The gulf and the mangrove swamps and mudflats
surrounding Wyndham are crocodile heaven. But people in general don't find
Wyndham all that heavenly...
Kununurra is a booming agricultural and tourism centre, whereas Wyndham has been
shrinking and shrinking. Kununurra is surrounded by waterways and lush farmlands,
Wyndham by tidal mudflats and nothingness. Kununurra is one of Australia's newest
towns and Wyndham is steeped in history. Kununurra is so alive and Wyndham is
so... different.
There is something surreal about the port. It may sit on the edge of the gulf or the
ocean, but it can feel like the edge of the world.
However, there is more than first meets the eye and its history is not the only thing to
discover in Wyndham.
History
Phillip Parker King was the first European explorer to sail into the gulf in 1819, during
his famous trip on the Mermaid. He named the gulf after the Duke of Cambridge. Since
it was King's mission to find a river passage into the interior of WA he sailed up one of
the rivers, now known as the King River. But he didn't like what he saw: mangrove
swamps, mudflats, crocodiles...
His reports were so pessimistic that it took another 60 years for someone else to venture
into the region again. Alexander Forrest, who visited in 1879 (and named the
Kimberley), saw the potential of the area as grazing country. His description made
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Solomon Emanuel and Patrick Durack have a look as well in 1881. (Two more river
names explained: the Forrest River and the Durack River.)
The Duracks agreed with Forrest about the potential of the area and in 1883 Patsy
Durack left Queensland with 7250 head of cattle and 200 horses, a trek that lasted for
two years and four months.
1885 saw the discovery of gold (which eventually led to the establishment of Halls
Creek) and things happened fast from here. Wyndham was established as a port and
trading point in 1885. By 1886 the town was booming.
There were six pubs in town already, the town site was being surveyed and blocks of
land sold, over 5000 miners landed in ships and at times up to 16 vessels were anchored
in the gulf. To really appreciate what that means you need to take into account just how
awfully isolated this area was back then. There was no connection at all to the rest of the
continent, other than the ships.
The mad boom didn't last long and the gold rush was already over in 1888. Until 1919
Wyndham existed as a tiny township serving the pastoralists that had settled the area.
In 1889 the Overland Telegraph arrived in Wyndham, much to the delight of the
Aboriginals in the area. (The ceramic insulators on the poles made excellent
spearheads).
The town in that time was effectively controlled by the Duracks, who owned the nearby
cattle station. The WA government began construction of the Wyndham meatworks in
1913. WWI interrupted the construction, but 1919 the meatworks finally opened. They
were the mainstay of Wyndham's economy until they closed in 1985.
Well, and since 1985 Wyndham has been shrinking. There have been a few newer
ventures, like the crocodile farm that breeds saltwater crocodiles for their meat and
skins. The farm also houses many big crocs, trouble makers that have been captured and
now live there as a tourist attraction.
The Wyndham port is still active and ships cattle from across the Kimberley to Asia,
zinc from the mines to Korea and until 2007 raw sugar from Kununurra, also to
Korea. Wyndham's historic and natural attractions provide a trickle of tourist money into
the town.
Its expensive to live in Kununurra, so more people are turning to Wyndham again. The
Argyle Diamond Mine has been shifting its focus towards local and Aboriginal
employment and the number of Argyle employees in Wyndham is steadily increasing.
Mining across the Kimberley is booming, agricultural produce from Kununurra is
increasingly being exported and there are many other things happening right now in the
Kimberley that all indicate that Wyndham and its port may become busy again.
GETTING THERE
Wyndham is 100 km from Kununurra on the Victoria Highway and can be visited as a
day trip. To avoid back tracking you can use the old Parry Creek Road along the Ord
River for one way (4WD recommended).
Wyndham can also be visited as a detour on your way from Kununurra to
Broome/Derby. It is 56 km north from the Great Northern Highway turn off, or 48 km
from the Gibb River Road turn off.
From Wyndham 4WD adventurers can also use the King River/Karunjie Road to get
to the Gibb River Road. The two roads meet at the Pentecost River Crossing.
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Wyndham consists of two parts: Wyndham Port is the original town site and is
where most of the historical attractions are located. Wyndham Town, also known as
Wyndham Three Mile, is the residential and shopping district and the part you reach
first.
The first thing you'll notice as you reach the Wyndham town entrance is the Big
Croc. You can't miss him. He's sitting right at the town entrance. Another interesting
group of large sculptures is just one road over to the east, in Warriu "Dreamtime"
Park. They depict an Aboriginal family complete with a dingo and a kangaroo. You
find the Wyndham Gardens Outdoor Cinema in the same road.
Also close to the town entrance is the Afghan Cemetery, with its tombstones facing
Mecca. If you wonder what Afghans were doing in Wyndham, those are the graves of
the camel drivers who provided the first freight service in the Kimberley.
Signposted all the way from the town entrance is Five Rivers Lookout on top of the
Erskine Range, or the Bastion as it's called. From here you can see all of Wyndham
and some of the highway, the whole gulf and the five rivers flowing into it: the King,
Forrest, Durack, Pentecost and the Ord. A plaque with a map is located at the parking
bay and shows the area and identifies the rivers. There are also some barbecues and
lots of space. Great spot for a sunset and spectacular views.
Because of the steep road caravans should be left at the tourist information or in the
parking area at the base or the Bastion, at what's called Three Mile Valley.
Three Mile Valley is also a picnic area and the start of two hiking trails. One follows
the creek and is nice in the wet season with little waterfalls and pools along the way.
The other trail takes you up to the lookout.
At the end of Wyndham Three Mile you can see the "Largest Boab in Captivity" at
Three Mile Caravan Park. (Called "in captivity" as it's fenced off.) A little bit further
is another historic cemetery, the Bend Cemetery. (There's a bend in the highway
there.) This cemetery contains the graves of the men who died during the meatworks
construction. It lists not only the names but also the causes of death, a vivid reminder
of just how tough those early days were.
Soon after you'll get to Wyndham Port. You find the Old Post Office on your right
hand side. It's now the Tourist Information Centre and Post Office Museum. The
Wyndham Port Heritage Trail starts there and is the best way to explore all the
historical sites. You can get information and notes at the tourist information.
Not on the heritage trail is the Gully Cemetery, the last resting place for members of
the earliest pastoralist families from the 1880s.
North of the wharf (which is a popular fishing spot) is the Crocodile Lookout. This is
the place where the blood from the meatworks used to drain into the gulf and naturally
there were always lots of saltwater crocodiles hanging around on the mudflats, hoping
for scraps. They disappeared after the meatworks closed, but now they are being fed
again for the benefit of the tourists.
By far the best place to see crocodiles is the Wyndham Crocodile Farm. Just follow
Barytes Road and you end up at the crocodile farm. (It's in fact now called the Wyndham
Crocodile Park and Zoological Gardens, but to us it will always remain the crocodile farm.)
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The best time for a visit is of course feeding time. (Feeding tours start at 11am, but
double check with Visitor Centre or ring the croc farm on 9161 1124 or 0407 767 530 outside
peak tourist season.)
If you are hungry yourself, try the Wyndham Town Hotel (near the Tourist
Information) for some really fresh barra.
ATTRACTIONS NEAR WYNDHAM

The unsealed King River Road (usually in good condition) starts 6 km out of
Wyndham and if you follow it all the way takes you west to the Gibb River Road.
It passes the Moochalabra Dam, which makes for a nice picnic spot. It's Wyndham's
water supply, so swimming, fishing etc. are obviously out of the question. In the wet
season the spillway turns into a nice waterfall. Several Aboriginal art sites are located
under the overhanging cliffs in the area.
23 km further along the King River Road, just after crossing the King River, is the
Boab Prison Tree. The tree has a circumference of 14.7 metres and is estimated to be
between 2000 and 4000 years old. As the name indicates, it used to serve as an
overnight lock up for patrols taking prisoners to Wyndham.
Turn right after another 4 km to get to Diggers Rest Station (accommodation, camping,
tours and great horse trekking! See accommodation and tour listings below.)
Veer left and you get to the Old Karunjie Road (rough!!) which takes you along the
Cockburn Ranges to the Pentecost River Crossing and the Gibb River Road.
(The Cockburn Range is the rugged red escarpment that you see in the header of my
website, in most Gibb River Road photos and in Baz Luhrmann's movie Australia.)
I write more about the Old Karunjie Track in Part IV: The Gibb River Road.
FREE BUSHCAMPING
During the first part of the trip, any track that turns north off the King River Road takes
you to a nice camp site, between 10 and 200 metres off the road, on the banks of the
King River. The area is popular with local fishermen. Fishing is great during the wet
season, the barra are much harder to hook in the dry, and beware of saltwater crocodiles!
On the highway back to Kununurra, 30 km out of Wyndham, is the Grotto, a

spectacular and popular waterfall and plunge pool. (See the Kununurra chapter for more
info.)
Instead of driving the highway back you can use the unsealed Parry Creek Road. It
used to be the main road between Kununurra and Wyndham before the new highway
was built. (The road can be very corrugated but is otherwise good. 2WD is usually ok,
caravans may be also for the first 7 km to Parry Creek Farm, but always ask about
current conditions first if taking caravans or conventional vehicles.)
The road passes the ruins of the old wireless station on Telegraph Hill, which is a
great vantage point to overlook the river and floodplains. Only 7 km from the
highway you find Parry Creek Farm and Marlgu Billabong, a small tourist venture
on the Ramsar protected Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve.
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The 36 000 ha Parry Lagoons Nature Reserve is a Ramsar protected wetland and
includes the Parry Lagoons, Marlgu Billabong, Police Hole and the large flood plains of
the Ord River. Most of the area floods during the wet season. The juvenile fish and
prawns that come in with the water are like a huge buffet for the thousands of waterbirds
that come here to breed.
During the dry season the waters retreat to the creek courses and billabongs. Other birds
move in to breed on the now dry savannah lands.
The wet season is the best time for bird watching. The more the area dries out the more
birds leave for other, more permanent wetlands. But many also stay all year round and
can be seen at Marlgu Billabong. A walkway leads out onto the water and the displays
inside the covered hide help you identify some of the 220 species of birds that can be
spotted here.
Many of those species are migratory. Some have flown in from as far as Siberia and use
the wetlands as a stopover to regain some energy, others come here to breed. The
wetlands are of vital importance to those species. Because human encroachment has
already taken its toll access is now restricted to a few roads and walking trails which are
only accessible by permit.
The turn off to the Parry Creek Road, the main access road to Parry Creek Farm &
Tourist Resort, is 13 km south of Wyndham. Its another 7 km along the Parry Creek
Road (unsealed but good, apart from the corrugations) to get to the resort. The road
passes Marlgu Billabong on the way. (You find the resort information under
Accommodation.)
From here you can take the Old Halls Creek Road back to the highway. It is a very
scenic drive, but strictly 4WD only (13 km, and they are rough). There are some
excellent picnic and fishing spots here. I love that track.
The road was built in 1894. In many places you can still see the stone kerbing, laid by
prison convicts. This was the road the gold prospectors used in the old days. The
hopeful men got off the ships in Wyndham and then pushed their barrows or carts all the
way to Halls Creek.
Alternatively you stay on the Parry Creek Road and follow the Ord River all the way
back to Ivanhoe Crossing (57 km) and Kununurra. Get to Kununurra either via
Ivanhoe Crossing (the short way back) or by turning right before you get to the
crossing, driving out onto the Victoria Highway (14 km) and then turning left.
Kununurra is another 10 km from there.

Wyndham Tourist Info
Location: Great Northern Hwy (At Kimberley Motors)
Open: call the centre for current opening hours
Ph: 9161 1281, Fax: 9161 1435
mail@thelastfrontier.com.au
Post Office, Koolinda Ave, 9161 1241
Wyndham Hospital, Minderoo Rd, 9161 0222
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ACCOMMODATION AND CAMPING

Wyndham Town Hotel, O'Donnell St, old port area, 9161 1003,
The rooms are aged, but the place is friendly. Changed hands in 2013.
Gulf Breeze Guest House, O'Donnell St, 9161 1401
Basic place not far from the Hotel.
Wyndham Caravan Park, Baker St, 9161 1064
Small, shady grounds, friendly place and the largest boab in captivity. The fenced off tree is
said to be over 2000 years old. Pets welcome.
Parry Creek Farm & Tourist Resort, Parry Creek Rd, 9161 1139,
www.parrycreekfarm.com.au
20km out of Wyndham on the Ramsar protected Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve. Camping
(lovely site by the creek, powered site $37, unpowered camping $17pp), rooms ($125) and
cabins along the billabong boardwalk ($230), restaurant, caf, bar, landscaped gardens and
pool, open April October. A warning: if you want to eat dinner here you need to get your
order in before 4pm.
And a tip: if you stay at Parry's they will let you store your van there for free while you
explore the Gibb River Road.
Diggers Rest Station, King River Rd, 9161 1029, www.diggersreststation.com.au
Camping, bush huts and air-conditioned bunk house. Cook your own meals on the barbecue
or go for one of the home cooked meals (breakfast $18, lunch $15, dinner $28 and snacks).
Bush camping $10, with facilities $15 pp, bunk house room $130 for two, extra person $35,
homestead bush hut $110 for two.
EATING OUT
The restaurant at Parry Creek Farm gets good reviews. Be aware that to eat dinner
here you need to get your order in before 4 pm. The Wyndham Hotel serves huge
counter meals. (The service at the Hotel has received mixed reviews, so far I never
had a problem there.)
TOURS
Diggers Rest Station, King River Rd, 9161 1029, www.diggersreststation.com.au
Fishing tours on the property, one hour to one day, horse riding by the hour, sunset rides and
day rides (full day $240, hourly from $50/hr) . You can also join one of the extended horse
treks (2 to 7 days, prices work out about $365 per person per day).
Look Sea Tours, 9161 1775
A variety of coastal and fishing cruises, extended charters. 57 foot aluminium vessel and
smaller boats.
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LAKE ARGYLE
ake Argyle is your first stop in the Kimberley if you are travelling from
Darwin/Katherine, or your last stop if you are leaving us in that direction. The
huge man made lake is only a few kilometres from the border between the
Kimberley and the Northern Territory, ideally situated for a stopover on the way
from/to Kununurra. Alternatively you can always make it a day trip from Kununurra.
It's not far and it's a beautiful drive. I drag all my visitors up there.
GETTING THERE
The turn off to Lake Argyle is 35 km east of Kununurra and 7 km west of the NT/WA
border check point. (Don't forget the agricultural quarantine if you are coming from
the east. You can not bring any fruit or vegetables into WA. See Part II: Agricultural
Quarantine for more info.)
From there it is an exceptionally scenic drive through the hills of the Carr Boyd
Ranges, especially if you make the trip there or back in the late afternoon.
One of the unusual features of the Argyle dam is the fact that its overflow is not
situated at the dam itself, but at the northern end of Pannikin Bay. From there the
water makes its way along Spillway Creek back into the Ord River. You cross the
bridge over Spillway Creek on your way to the lake.
A few kilometres past the bridge is a turn off to your left. The detour takes you to the
Spillway Lookout, a vantage point from where you have a good view of the overflow
that was blasted through solid rock.
After 35 km you reach the Resort Lake Argyle. The main dam, the boat ramp, the
picnic area, several vantage and lookout points as well as the Argyle Downs
Homestead Museum are all nearby.

Visit the Argyle Downs Homestead Museum, the famed original homestead of early
Kimberley pioneer Patsy Durack.
Patsy Durack and his two brothers founded the Kimberley beef industry when they
made their epic two-year trek from Queensland, with carts, wagons and 7250 head of
cattle. The homestead was built in 1884, using natural boulders for the walls, crushed
termite mounds for mortar, corrugated iron sheets for roofing and flagstones to pave the
veranda. Its one of the best historic examples of early station homesteads. Thats why
in 1971 the entire homestead was dismantled and moved from its original site to prevent
it from being flooded by the dam. It has been reconstructed as a museum about those
early pioneering days.
(Open 8am 4pm Apr-Sep, entry $4, 9167 8088) There is also a short bushwalk nearby.
Driving along the road past the tourist village takes you to several lookout points.
One track branches off to the left and leads down to the shore and boat ramp. You can
stop for a swim here, but unfortunately there is no shade anywhere.
The views from the lookouts are stunning, even though they only show a tiny part of
the lake. You can also see the dam wall and power station from above.
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Keep following the road as it crosses the main dam. The views from the top of the
dam are great, in both directions, over the water at the hills of the ranges, or down,
following the river as it disappears between the steep slopes of the ranges, towards
Carlton Gorge.
Eventually the road ends at a grassy and shady picnic area below the main dam wall.
With a bit of luck you can spot some of the many freshwater crocodiles that live here.
To appreciate the dimensions of the Lake Argyle you need to take a scenic flight. Any
photos taken while driving will only show a tiny part of it. Lake Argyle covers an area
18 times the size of Sydney harbour, 1000 km2. At full flood level that area increases
to 2100 km2! The dam wall, an earth filled dam with an impervious clay core, is tiny
in relation to the amount of water it holds.
Boat tours are the next best thing. To fully appreciate the natural beauty of the area
below the dam you can take a boat cruise, starting from the Ord Dam, back down the
river to the Diversion Dam at Kununurra. The more adventurous can also hire a canoe
for that trip and camp overnight at one of the permanent camps along the river. (See
below for some details on tours, more can be found in the tour operator listings for
Kununurra.)
ACCOMMODATION AND FACILITIES

Resort Lake Argyle, 9168 7777, www.lakeargyle.com.au
Big caravan park with powered and unpowered sites ($15 pp plus $7 site fee for power),
single quarters ($125) and on site cabins (from $159), as well as standard rooms ($219), 1 or
2 bedroom apartments ($329/$499). The pub has cold beer and hot meals, the general store
has the usual range of essentials, as well as gas, ice and fuel (diesel, super, unleaded), tourist
information and souvenirs. They also arrange and book tours for you. A video about the dam
construction screens twice daily in the bar. Open May to September from 7.30am till 7.30pm.
Oct April opening hours are limited.
The campground has full facilities, including a kiosk, a pool and BBQs and it even allows
pets. (On application, so contact them first. $20 pet deposit applies.)
The new "Infinity Pool" on the hill top overlooks the lake and is open to all resort guests,
including campers.
BOAT TOURS
Lake Argyle Cruises, 9168 7687, www.lakeargylecruises.com
Morning ($70/$40 children), sunset ($90/$55 children) and full afternoon "best of Lake
Argyle" cruises ($155/$90).
If from Lake Argyle you drive back to the main highway, and then turn right towards
the NT, and then cross the border, then, 20 km to the east of the border, you come to
the turn off for the Duncan Road on your right.
Drive down that road for 6 km, turn right again, and after another 4 km you find the
Zebra Rock Mine. Kim and Ruth have owned the lease for a few years now, but they
only opened for tourists in May 2011. You can buy Zebra Rock directly from the
mine (and all sorts of wonderful items crafted from it), get a free mine tour and look
out over Lake Argyle. Best of all, you can also camp here, and it's very good value.
Zebra Rock Camping, 0400 767 650
Very friendly hosts, scones and coffee upon arrival. Great silver cobbler and chips.
Unpowered camping only, fires allowed, the two shower/toilet units are new and clean (but
may be not enough for a big influx of people), $10 pp. Several tours, free mine tour in the
mornings.You can pick up a Telstra mobile signal from the lookout.
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KEEP RIVER NATIONAL PARK
eep River National Park is comparatively small, but the scenery and
landforms are just as spectacular as in the bigger parks. The park marks a
change in geology, from the sandstone ranges of the Kimberley to the
dramatic escarpments of the Victoria River region. The sandstone formations are
similar to those in the Bungle Bungle Range.
The 700 something km2 park is situated near the border between the Northern
Territory and the Kimberley region, only 50 km from Kununurra.
By rights this is not the Kimberley any more. But it is such a short distance from
Kununurra and it can easily be explored in only one day, so I have included it. You
can camp there, you can visit it on your way to/from Darwin, or you can make it a day
trip from Kununurra.
GETTING THERE
468 km west of Katherine in the Northern Territory
50 km east of Kununurra
The park is located on the Victoria Highway. You can visit it on a day trip from
Kununurra or stop there on the way when travelling to or from Kununurra.
The formed gravel road that runs the length of the park is ok for 2WDs and caravans
during the dry season, although the corrugations can get a bit rough at times. Just
drive slowly and carefully. During and shortly after the wet season some or all roads
in the park may be closed. (For current road conditions ring the NT Parks & Wildlife
Service, 9167 8827).
Visit the information centre near the entrance to find out more about the park.
Alternatively you can get information and fact sheets beforehand from any of the
Visitor Centres in Katherine, Timber Creek or Kununurra.

Two camp sites, several walks and Aboriginal art sites featuring over 2500 drawings
are located along the 31 km main road.
The drive itself is enjoyable, too. To your right you see the sharp rise of the Victoria
River escarpments and to your left you get a glimpse of the sandstone formations that
characterise the Kimberley and the Bungles.
Cockatoo Lagoon is not far from the entrance and the information centre and is a
good place to watch birds.
Three walks in the park lead to places of cultural significance and to some ancient
rock art:
Ginger's Hill Walk: starts not far from the entrance. (200 m return)
Jinumum Walk: follows the bed of the Keep River, located some 20 km
along the main road. (3 km, 2 hr)
Nganalam Art Site: a few kilometres beyond Jinumum. (200 m return)
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Interpretive displays give insight into the lives of the Miriwoong and Gadjerong
people. They are the traditional owners of Keep River National Park and have lived in
the area for thousands of years.
The two campsites, Gurrandalng (18 km from the entrance) and Jarnem (at the far
end of the Park) offer tables, barbecues and pit toilets. Generators are ok at
Gurrandalng but not at Jarnem. Both sites also feature interesting walks.
Gurrandalng is a lovely location for a camp site, surrounded and sheltered by
sandstone formations. The walk from here takes about 30 min to 1 hour and leads you
through the rock formations in the area, with magnificent views around every corner.
Jarnem is not as pretty a camp site (still very nice, though!), but the walk is also
great. You can either do the whole track in a loop of 8 km, which includes the lookout
and the art sites, or opt for a shorter return stroll on either end. The whole loop is an
interesting and varied track, taking you through many different habitats.
The lookout at the eastern end of the walk is reached after a moderate climb and
offers you views in all directions. Signs explain the interesting change in geology and
give you information about the history of the area, as well as the flora and fauna.
If you are pressed for time I recommend the walk to the art sites on the western end.
It's shorter and it's the most impressive part. After you enjoyed the rock art walk just a
little bit further around the next corner to experience some spectacular views and
photo opportunities.
The best time for the walks is, as usual, early in the morning or late in the afternoon,
which makes camping a very attractive option.
But since the park is so close to Kununurra it is also possible to enjoy the walks in the
late afternoon and then continue driving to spend the night in the comfort of a hotel
room.
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Part IV: The Gibb River Road
he Gibb River Road is a short cut. A short cut to the magic of the Kimberley.
Sure, it is a short cut in the literary sense as well, a short cut from the East
Kimberley to the west coast. But that hardly matters.
There is no better way to experience what the Kimberley is all about than to hire a
4WD and some camping gear and to head for the Gibb River Road.
The 660 km dirt road cuts right through the wild heart of the Kimberley, from Derby
on the west coast to Kununurra/Wyndham on WA's eastern border, through a
spectacular landscape of intensely coloured ranges, dramatic gorges and lush greenery
at the rock pools and waterfalls everything the Kimberley is famous for.
The trip is still touted as one of the last serious adventures in Australia, a drive
through a very remote area where all sorts of dangers loom, an undertaking that
requires guts and four wheel driving experience ... Well, not any more!
Today there is absolutely nothing to be nervous about.

Your Gibb River Road trip can be an adventure, if that's what you want it to be. Or it
can be an enjoyable and relaxing scenic drive. (Ok, except for the corrugated parts.)
Anybody can drive the Gibb River Road. You need no special skills or experience at
all. This guide contains everything you need to know.
Don't worry, you will be well prepared. (And I have yet to hear from a reader who
did not find the drive was a LOT easier than expected.)
The Gibb River Road has become so popular in recent years, it is rather busy these
days. In the past you would have been entirely on your own if something went wrong.
Today you cant get away from people.
The road becomes busy as soon as it opens. A steady stream of four wheel drives and
campervans makes its way along the track. You need to get to the campgrounds early
if you want a nice spot, and if you think you were going to enjoy peace and solitude,
think again. It's gorgeous out here and the country is still wild and untouched. But you
won't be alone.
If you are a seasoned adventurer looking for a challenge, then you are a bit too late.
(But there are plenty of possible detours to satisfy the thrill seekers.)
On the other hand, if like most tourists you are a bit nervous about the trip, then
the increased traffic on the Gibb River Road has definitely advantages.
All of the road is well sign posted. You couldn't get lost if you tried. Fuel, tyre and
mechanical repairs, supplies and accommodation are available at several places along
the way. If something goes wrong it's just a matter of minutes until another car comes
along, at least during the tourist season. (Outside the tourist season the road is closed
anyway. More on all that below.)
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HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE?

Well, people do race through in a single day, but of course that way you don't see
anything.
One night (probably best spent at Bell Gorge or Manning Gorge) is nowhere near
enough. Even with a second night at say El Questro you have to skip too much.
Three nights give you a chance to have a look at most of the main gorges and
attractions. Four nights is better. If you want to make the detour up to the Mitchell
Plateau add another two nights and one or two more for a trip to Kalumburu. I would
also suggest you set two nights aside for the Mornington Wilderness Sanctuary. It's
worth it.
These are still only the minimum recommendations. See the selection of self drive
itineraries in the chapter Itinerary Planning and also in the separate bonus download
to get a better idea of whats possible and how to best organise it.
When you plan your trip, work on an average of no more than 60 kph on the main
road, less on the side tracks.
Tip: don't forget to allow for time to set up and pack up your camp. This happened to
one of my readers. The family had never camped before and simply did not think of
including time for that in their very detailed scheduled. As a result they had to cancel
their detour to the Mitchell Plateau.
Also keep in mind that to set up camp you need to pull up when there is still enough
daylight left and our tropical nights start VERY early. By 6 pm it's all long over!
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Permits/Permission
You don't need a permit to travel on the Gibb River Road, the Kalumburu Road or
the Mitchell Plateau Road.
However, you do need a permit if you want to enter the Kalumburu Aboriginal
Community and you need to organise it before you leave.
The entry permit from the Aboriginal Land Trust is free and should only take a day or
two to process online:
www.dia.wa.gov.au/Entry-Permits.aspx
You can also ring the permits officer: 9235 8000.or 1300 651 077
You also need a Kalumburu Recreation Entry Permit which costs $35 per vehicle and
is valid for 7 days. You can try to prearrange the permit with the Derby or Kununurra
Visitor Centre, but they will probably just tell you to buy it at the office, store or
mission when you arrive in Kalumburu.
Any other travel on tracks across Aboriginal land requires a permit. (As I indicated
above, no such travel is necessary to visit any of the places described below.)
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The entire country that the Gibb River Road crosses is private land (unless it is a
national park or conservation reserve). Yes, somebody actually owns these
unbelievable gorges and waterfalls. Camping is only allowed in designated
campgrounds.
You are allowed to use any of the sign posted gorge access tracks and access tracks to
stations with tourist facilities without special permission. Note, however, that some of
those places ask that you let them know in advance that you are coming.
If you want to go off exploring on any other tracks you have to get permission from
the owners!
You will find all those details, including who to ask for permission, in the chapters
below.
Your Vehicle
Even if the idea of your vehicle breaking down out here is not as scary as it used to
be, it's still a major inconvenience and a rather costly one as well. Make sure your
vehicle is mechanically sound and have it checked over and serviced before you
leave.
If you have no 4WD experience or are driving a hired car make sure you familiarise
yourself with your vehicle. Know its limitations. Know how to engage the four wheel
drive. People do get stuck and cause expensive rescue operations (though not on the
Gibb River Road, you couldn't get bogged there if you tried) and all the rescuers have
to do is engage the four wheel drive.
Having said that, you generally do not really need the actual four wheel drive at all
during the dry season. There is no deep sand or mud and no steep climbs. What you
do need is the higher clearance of the 4WD vehicles. That also means that some of the
"toy" 4WDs that are popular in cities and on the beach are not so good out here.
Taking a standard caravan is madness. Don't do it. Chances are it will simply
disintegrate on you.
Dedicated, tough off-road vans are fine if you don't mind them getting knocked
around a fair bit. Emphasis is on tough! They can still be a hindrance, you can't go
exploring as easily as you can without a van. Be aware that anything that can rattle
loose, will. (And that a few things that can't, will do so anyway.)
Sturdy off-road camper trailers are ok. With a high clearance 4WD vehicle and offroad trailer you can access everything along the Gibb River and Kalumburu roads.
Taking a 2WD during the middle and late dry season is possible but it is most
definitely not recommended. You could probably make it across the Gibb River Road
itself ok. You do run a risk of severely damaging your vehicle in one of the river or
creek crossings because of your low clearance. You may also get problems with your
tyres and suspension, which are not designed for this terrain.
AWDs and Softroaders also have rather low clearance and an overall less sturdy
design. It depends on the exact make or model. How suitable they are also depends
where exactly you want to go, the time of the year and on your experience level.
The Gibb River Road has improved dramatically in the last years, but if you have a
low clearance vehicle, whether it's two wheel or all wheel drive, you still need to take
great care at all river and creek crossings and on many of the side tracks. Keep your
eyes on the road and watch where exactly you put your wheels. River and creek
crossings will present the biggest challenge, especially early in the season.
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You are also more likely to run into other problems, due to the stress placed on the
whole vehicle by the rough conditions and corrugations. So do take it easy.
Take a real 4WD, drive at a reasonable speed, and you will get through anything
on the Gibb without problems, no matter what your experience level.
Insurance
Read the small print of your 4WD hire agreement. Many hire companies require that
you ask for written permission to drive the Gibb River Road. During the dry season
this is just a formality. The regulation is in place to prevent travellers from taking hire
vehicles into remote areas when the road conditions are unsuitable, e.g. during the wet
season.
While it is rarely a problem to get permission and insurance for the Gibb River Road,
it can be difficult to impossible for the Kalumburu Road and especially the Mitchell
Plateau Track. Contact your hire company and make sure you understand their
requirements.
Readers have managed to get permission from various companies, but it appears to be
hit and miss, depending on which branch you deal with.
(Having said all that, many of the things that could theoretically go wrong would not
be covered by the standard insurance cover anyway.)
Road Conditions
The western half of the Gibb River Road is usually in excellent condition, big parts
are already sealed. There are bridges over some creeks, other creek crossings have
been reinforced with concrete. All the sections where the road climbs over steep
ranges are now sealed, so you don't get the bad wet season wash outs that you used to
get in the past.
The eastern part of the Gibb is rockier than the western half, some of the side tracks
are a bit rougher, and over the season the whole road and side tracks can deteriorate
badly because they are used so heavily.
The conditions on any given day depend on the time of the year, when exactly a
section has last been graded and how many people have used it since.
The road gets graded at the beginning of the season, as soon as the graders can get in.
If the grader has just been through you will find a perfect highway.
Then the road slowly deteriorates, which means corrugations develop. When it gets
too bad the graders will come through again. Usually those maintenance grades
happen twice a year but there is no way to predict when.
If you happen to travel through just before another grade is due, then you may find a
badly corrugated road. That can make the drive very uncomfortable but it isn't
difficult.
If you are in too much of a rush it can rattle your van or trailer to bits and do damage
to your suspension. It can also be dangerous (around corners or if you need to swerve)
because you have a lot less traction on such a surface. It's much better to lower your
tyre pressure to soften the ride. (Something you should do anyway.)
As long as you make sure that all your gear is stowed securely (lids on tightly etc.) the
corrugations are only a nuisance. So is the dust. You may want to keep an eye on your
air filter and clean it regularly, especially if your vehicle is not fitted with a snorkel.
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The start of the season is a different story. Most of the Gibb River Road is of course
closed during the wet season. The date it closes and reopens depends on when and
how much it rains. The Gibb River Road is generally open from May to November.
It gets opened once the water has dropped enough to make the road safe. But just
because the Gibb River Road is open does not mean that YOUR car will make it
across. This is where it is important to know the limitations of your vehicle.
When the Gibb River Road first opens there is still a lot of water in the main river
crossings and some of the creeks on the side tracks can also be very deep. In the first
few weeks you may need to be able to drive through more than 500 mm of water,
which is only safe with a snorkel.
There is no way to predict water levels ahead. If you plan to travel in April/May, for
smaller cars and 2WDs even June, then you need to keep an eye on the current
conditions.
Double check the road conditions and water depth and be flexible with your plans.
Up to date information about road conditions and water depth is available from:
Any tourist information centre,
the Main Roads Department (free call 1800 013 314, or 138 138,
www.mainroads.wa.gov.au),
Main Roads regional offices at Derby (9158 4333) or Kununurra (9168 4777),
the ExplorOz website (www.exploroz.com/WA/Kimberley/Roads.aspx).
Driving/Speed/Safety
This one is obvious, you would think, but when you look at the accidents that happen
every year it makes you wonder. There have been seven deaths on the Gibb River
Road since 1993 (speeding, overtaking when they shouldn't, falling asleep at the
wheel, ...)
You can't drive on unsealed roads at the same speed as on a sealed road! You have to
slow down! Corrugations are particularly hazardous. Flying over the top of them
might feel a lot more comfortable, but think about how little traction you have when
you only just touch the top of those bumps. Especially around bends it is very easy to
lose control. So take it easy.
Also, do engage the 4WD. No, not because you'll get stuck without it. You won't. But
engaging the 4WD and driving with all four wheels greatly improves the handling of
the vehicle and the control you have over it. It's safer.
Dust is always a problem on the Gibb River Road, but don't let it tempt you into
overtaking a slower vehicle unless you can actually see the road ahead. You should
also drive with your headlights on, so the vehicles you are approaching and any
oncoming traffic have a chance to see you.
If you do overtake anybody, put some space between them and you before you move
back to your side of the road and shower their windscreen with gravel. Also keep the
hazard from airborne stones in mind when passing oncoming traffic. Please slow
down to a reasonable speed that does not cause problems for others.
The Gibb River Road is an important transport road for the cattle industry. You will
come across many road trains, trucks with three, four or more trailers. Keep in mind
that these road trains can't just jump on the brakes and stop in a hurry, so stay out of
their way!!
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Don't take any risks trying to overtake them. You will need a lot of clear straight road
ahead to do so and how you are going to see that in their dust cloud I don't know.
Last but not least: at dusk and dawn there is always a risk of animals on the road, not
only wildlife but also cattle. Remember that all the land along the Gibb River Road is
cattle farming country and that the road is not necessarily fenced.
Tyres
The Gibb River Road is famous for its sharp rocks and has a bad reputation for
shredding tyres.
It helps to start out with good tyres.
You should take at least two spares. (People who plan to really get off the beaten track
may want to take extra tubes, repair kit and an air compressor.) I do know of people
who ruined three or more tyres. That can be avoided, you know?
To start with, drop your tyre pressures! Tyre pressures on dirt roads should be
considerably lower than on bitumen roads.
See the chapter Unsealed Roads in Part II for recommended tyre pressures.
Do not underestimate the importance of this! Drop the pressure.
All Terrain (AT) tyres with their reinforced sidewalls will withstand the rocks better
than HT (highway terrain).
Conventional nylon tyres are a lot less prone to sidewall damage than radials. Radials
are also more expensive to replace or repair.
All tyres can last the distance if you look after them and drive to the conditions.
There is one method to prevent punctures that works without fail: go slow!
If you dislike changing tyres (and paying for them) as much as I do just keep your
speed down at 60 kph or even less on the rocky sections. It will greatly improve your
chances. (I can not guarantee you won't get a puncture some other way.)
Most people who follow these recommendations never have any flat tyre at all.
River and Creek Crossings

River crossings can be a bit of a challenge. Luckily the water usually disappears pretty
quickly, so this is only a problem at the beginning of the season.
I already said it, just because the road has been opened does not mean that YOU will
make it across all rivers. It really depends on your car.
A few rules of thumb:
If the water flows too strong for you to walk across then it is not safe to drive
across. (The flow is more important than the depth.)
Of course it is possible to cross water a lot deeper than that if you have the right
vehicle and a snorkel, but you should know your car and you should know what you
are doing. The above rules of thumb are a guideline for inexperienced drivers.
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If the river or creek is crocodile free it never hurts to wade across first and check for
bottomless holes, submerged logs etc. (Don't wade into the Pentecost, ok? You'll end
up as croc dinner.)
So how do you actually drive across a deep crossing?
Engage the four wheel drive for additional traction and select first or second gear in
low range. (For the sake of your clutch don't change gears in the water). Keep the revs
high enough to prevent the car from stalling and let the car slowly make its way
across. You will be surprised how easy it is.
You dont have to take a run up and go fast to make it. I've seen people do that. They
are asking for trouble. Your car is more than powerful enough to push its way across.
If in doubt about the depth or the condition of the crossing you can always wait for
another vehicle. The Gibb River Road is by no means a lonely deserted road.
Fuel/Supplies
Diesel and unleaded are sold at several roadhouses and stations. Diesel is available at
many points but petrol can be bit harder to come by. There is no LPG.
Plan ahead what you want to do. Find out where exactly along the Gibb River Road
you can refill your tank. (Details at the end of Part IV.) You might need jerry cans.
In fact, if you can, I recommend you take more than you need. Shortages have
occurred in the past when the fuel truck broke down or had a problem. Roadhouses
have been in situations where they had to ration fuel or ran out altogether. It's rare but
it has happened and is sure to happen again.
When doing your budget, keep in mind that fuel out here is MUCH more expensive
than in the Kimberley towns, that it's already MUCH more expensive in the
Kimberley than in the major cities, and that the prices you find quoted on the web
may be city prices. (See the chapter Costs in Part II.) You will find prices well above
$2 along the Gibb River Road and much higher still in Kalumburu. Imintji Roadhouse
makes a point of offering the cheapest diesel along the road.
Several stores, stations and roadhouses along the way sell basic supplies and ice as
well as refilling gas bottles. Fresh food is scarce, though, so it's good to stock up on
that as much as possible, as well as on cryovacced meat.
Drinking water is available at many points. We have no shortage of that. But you
should still take plenty, especially if you plan to do a bit more exploring. Drinking
water is the one thing you can never carry too much of. Take enough to last you for
two to three days, just in case. (More if you really venture off the beaten track.)
Camping/Accommodation
Everything along the Gibb River Road is private land. Camping is only allowed in
designated areas. The facilities vary. Most campgrounds charge a fee. More details
can be found in the next section.
Several cattle stations offer accommodation and there are also a few resort style
wilderness camps. You can do the whole trip in style if you prefer. (Details at the end
of Part IV.)
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A Short Summary
Just in case you missed that point:
The single most effective thing you can do to avoid any kind of trouble along the
Gibb River Road is to take it easy.
Slow down, enjoy, and you and your car will arrive in one piece.
ATTRACTIONS ON THE GIBB RIVER ROAD

OVERVIEW: GORGES, GORGES AND MORE GORGES...
The main reason why travellers subject themselves to the dust and endless
corrugations of the Gibb River Road is the huge number of gorges, waterfalls and
swimming holes along the road.
When you plan your Gibb River Road trip keep in mind that most photos you see, and
that includes my own, were taken during or just after the wet season. Once the wet
season is finished the water disappears quickly, the falls dry up and the country turns
brown.
To see the waterfalls in all their glory you have to get here early in the season.
However, the pools at the bottom of the falls remain until long after the falls dry up
and you can find several places to swim all year round.
Before we get to the detailed descriptions, here is a list of the best known attractions,
starting from Derby and driving towards Kununurra/Wyndham.
Why in this direction? For no particular reason. I had to opt for one direction. The
drive is supposed to be more scenic when doing it in the opposite direction, from
Kununurra to Derby. Personally, I don't see much difference.
Most attractions are NOT located on the Gibb River Road itself but on a side track.
The only exception is Galvans Gorge. Well, and the Pentecost River Crossing.
What the numbers mean:
A/B (C) Attraction
A: The distance from Derby to the turn off to the attraction.
B: The distance from the Kununurra-Wyndham highway intersection to the turn off.
C: The additional driving distance on the side track, one way.
123/536 (20 and 55) Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek national parks
195/464 (8) Lennard Gorge
219/440 (30) Bell Gorge
252/407 (90) Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary
291/368 Galvans Gorge
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305/354 (7) Manning Gorge (entry fee applies)

415/244 (60, 186 and 263) Drysdale River Station, Mitchell Falls and
Kalumburu
593/66 (2) Home Valley Station
602/57 Pentecost River Crossing
626/33 (16) El Questro (entry fee applies)
636/23 (2) Emma Gorge (entry fee applies)
I've bolded the most well known places. That does NOT mean that I consider them
must sees, or that the others can be skipped. And there are fantastic places that aren't
on the list, because most people never heard of them.
The following pages have detailed descriptions of everything there is to see and do at
all the stops. They will hopefully help you with those hard decisions.
The chapter Services at the end contains a summary of all the essential info about
distances, fuel and other supply stops, accommodation, camping, etc.
There are more gorges and attractions than listed above. Many of the cattle stations
along the Gibb River Road have gorges that you can only access if you stay at their
accommodation or take part in one of their tours. Others require that you ask for
permission, which they may or may not give, but those places are usually more
difficult to get to. You need to have the right equipment and enough experience to
explore the really rough and remote tracks.
I do mention all those places and necessary details, including contact details, below.
But what's on the overview list above, that are the famous attractions (and easiest to
access places) that most travellers will try to fit into their schedule.
FROM DERBY TO KUNUNURRA ALONG THE GIBB

The numbers indicate the distance (km) of the turn off from Derby/the KununurraWyndham intersection. Take them as a guideline. Odometres and tyre sizes vary and
can introduce a huge amount of variation!
0/659 Lets go!

The turn off to the Gibb River Road is only 4 km from the Derby town entrance. After
the first 500 metres you find an information bay on your left. Not far from here is the
The Mowanjum Art & Culture Centre to the south of the Gibb, and a few kilometres
further the Old Derby Leprosarium to the north (Bungarun Rd.) Both have been
covered already in the What to See and Do in Derby chapter (p 98).
By the way, if after a few kilometres you wonder if you really are on the right track...
You are. The first 62 km of the Gibb River Road are sealed.
16/643 Birdwood Downs

Birdwood Downs is a 5000 acre working cattle station that also welcomes interested
tourists. They are only 1 km off the main road. Accommodation is in basic but lovely,
solar powered, single bedroom "Savannah Huts" in the homestead gardens with
shared bathroom facilities. You can get full board, bed and breakfast, or just the bed.
You can also pitch your tent or park your camper trailer/campervan in the small and
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basic bush campground, sharing the same bathroom facilities as the guests in the huts.
(There is not enough room for caravans.)
The guided tours of the property (30 min Homestead Tour & Tea and 1.5 hr Savannah
Eco Tour) focus on ecology and responsible environmental management, as does the
whole property. There is also the Kimberley school of horsemanship and guided
trail rides on the property.
A stay at Birdwood Downs offers insights into the day to day workings and the larger
issues of the sustainable management of a Kimberley station. And peace and quietness
and the best water in the Kimberley. Former owner Robyn Treadwell called it
Kimberley Champagne. (Robyn died in Sep 2012 after short illness.)
Birdwood Downs, 9191 1275, www.birdwooddowns.com,
Savanna Huts for two with shared ablutions ($81), campground ($13.50 pp) with camp
kitchen and gas bbq, no caravans, generators or dogs. The restaurant offers breakfast ($17.50)
and dinners ($39.50) and packed lunches are available ($31).
Savannah trail ride $56.50, champagne sunset ride $99.50, ecological tour $56.50, homestead
tour and tea $22.50. Bookings are required for tours, trail rides and accommodation.
124/535 T/o to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek national parks

Turn off to the Leopold Downs Road (sometimes just called Windjana Gorge Road,
or Tunnel Creek Road, or even Windjana/Geikie Gorge Road).
I already covered Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek in detail in Part III. Windjana
Gorge is 20 km from the road junction, Tunnel Creek is another 35 km from
Windjana Gorge. If you continue on this road for another 74 km you reach the Great
Northern Highway, 43 km west of Fitzroy Crossing.
Camping is available at Windjana Gorge National Park, free bushcamping at the
RAAF Boab quarry near the Great Northern Highway.
See the accommodation/camping listings for Fitzroy Crossing for the latter.
124/535 Lennard River Bridge

Right after passing the turn off, the Gibb River Road crosses the Lennard River. And
just before the bridge is the Lennard River Bridge Snack Stop on your left. Grab a
cuppa or a snack (the usual selection of pies, pasties, sausage rolls, ice cream, candy
bars etc.) from the trailer and enjoy the river views from the veranda. With a bit of
luck you can see freshwater crocs on the banks. Robert Hadley, the owner, has even
set up a telescope to help you with that! Crocs or not, it's a lovely spot for a break.
(More about Robert here: meanjin.com.au/articles/post/lennard-river-snack-stop/ )
Update for 2012: Unfortunately the Lennard River Bridge Snack Stop does not exist
any more after the Lennard river washed away the foundations of Robert's shed in the
2010/2011 wet season
133/526 Queen Victoria's Head

A much photographed rock formation. Where the road passes through Yammera Gap
the rocks on one side look just like the profile of Queen Victorias' Head.
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187/472 Inglis Gap

A small parking area and lookout on the southern side of the road. Beautiful views
which are too grand to capture in a photo. This is one of the few stretches where the
road has been sealed to prevent wash outs in the wet season.
189/470 Mt. Hart Wilderness Lodge

Background: After a drawn out battle Mt. Hart changed ownership. Please refer to
my newsletter special issue for more information (click here).
Update: also see the newsletter updates from Dec 16, 2010 and Mar 11, 2011.
Update 2012: It was not exactly a big surprise for insiders when the DEC announced
that as of 2012 Mt. Hart will be operated by APT.
I kept the below description as a tribute to Taffy and Kim. Mt. Hart is not what it used
to be. See APT's website for more information on what's on offer.
www.kimberleywilderness.com.au/content.asp?document_id=146141
Mt. Hart Wilderness Lodge is located a 50 km drive off the Gibb River Road. The
previously rough access track was upgraded in 2008 but the creek crossings mean it's
still unsuitable for caravans. It's a very scenic drive, winding and climbing through the
Leopold Ranges.
A lot of visitors to Mt Hart fly in. Not because the track is bad, it isn't at all. It's just
that the option exists and is convenient for people with little time or those who aren't
into adventures or self driving. Many of those visitors are also participating in scenic
flights and only stop for lunch.
When I visited Mt. Hart for the first time I was surprised to find the place totally
different from what I expected. The official, promotional description is in my opinion
a little misleading. Maybe it's just me, but what I expected was a posh place with
manicured lawns, focus on style and creature comforts, pampering wealthy guests...
It's nothing like that! Mt. Hart is a wild and natural place, full of character and history,
and 101% authentic Kimberley.
The Mt. Hart lease covers almost a million acres in the King Leopold Ranges. The
landscape is very different from the rest of the Gibb River Road, with its sheltered
green valleys and many unusual geological features. This really is a unique and
exceptionally beautiful area.
Initially Mt. Hart was taken up as a pastoral lease and different owners struggled from
1914 to 1987 to make the place work, but nobody succeeded. The area is just too
rugged and remote.
Draughts and floods meant the homestead was shifted several times. The heritage
homestead that accommodates visitors today was built in 1960.
Eventually Mt. Hart was declassified as a viable pastoral lease and finally the area
was gazetted as the King Leopold Conservation Park in 2000.
Taffy Abbotts has managed Mt. Hart (as a joint management venture with the
Department of Environment and Conservation) since 1990, and there wasn't much left
of the place when he arrived. What you find here today is entirely the result of his
dedication and love for the place.
Kim arrived at Mt. Hart to stay for one night, and seven years later she is still here,
giving Taffy a hand to run the show.
Between them they maintain, finance, extend and preserve Mt Hart's history,
homesteads and gardens, something that unfortunately the DEC has not really shown
much interest in.
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The story of the establishment of the original homestead, in fact, the whole history of
Mt. Hart, is well worth watching: Kim has skillfully put together a 12 minute DVD,
hilariously narrated by the unimitable Taffy. You can watch the DVD at the bar at the
homestead. It will make you laugh out loud a few times, but more importantly, it will
make you look at the place with different eyes.
Accommodation at Mt. Hart is in two heritage homesteads with shared bathroom

facilities. (These are not just shells that have been renovated into luxury hotels, they
are still very much like they were built.) One building is the original homestead, and
lucky you if you get to stay there. The place really has something. The second
homestead was built by Taffy, in the same style as the original one. It looks very
similar on the surface, but it doesn't shelter the same memories and spirits of the past.
Accommodation prices include a three course dinner and a cooked/continental
breakfast, as well as lunch and a complimentary cheese and champagne hamper if you
spend more than one night. The food is served buffet style, with a couple of dishes to
choose from. The bread is baked freshly by Taffy and the ice-cream is home-made.
(Once the ice machine is fixed...)
Camping is available at $15 pp. The brand new campground is 800 m north of the
homestead, right on the Barker River, and has good facilities. Campers can book into
the restaurant and use the "Three Dingoes" bar, but they can not wander through the
gardens and homesteads. (Those old homesteads do not have any locks on the doors.
If mobs of people wander through the place and poke their noses into everything,
accommodated guests would likely complain...)
I suggested during my last visit that they consider offering daily tours of the whole
premises, because I think everybody who stays here should get to see the old
homestead and be told some of the stories. Kim liked the idea but as of yet I don't
know if anything will come from it.
Also worth mentioning are Mt. Hart's dingoes. The dingoes you see here are pure
dingoes that are not kept as pets but come and go as they like. However, they have
been hand reared and are very friendly! You will certainly meet them because they
visit you in the campground and they sneak into the dining room...
What else is there to do?
Mt. Hart does not have the grand and spectacular gorges and falls that you find
through the rest of the Kimberley. The gorges here are pretty, pandanus lined creeks,
mumbling and meandering their way through the shady valleys of the ranges.
Annie Creek Gorge is a great little wilderness walk, easily extended into a great
longer wilderness walk, if you are so inclined (decent shoes and long pants strongly
recommended for longer hikes). From the car park just follow the creek upstream for
as far as you like. The further you go the more difficult the walk gets. You can also
climb up to the top of the range for great views. Swimming is not possible, but there
are a couple of places near the start where the creek is deep enough to sit in it and cool
down, at least early in the season.
Mt. Matthew Gorge also has a delightful creek, meandering through the black rocks
and cliffs of the gorge, with dozens of shady, small pools, rapids and waterfalls.
Again, you can follow it as far upstream as you like, though this time the emphasis is
on dipping and soaking in the pools and relaxing, not so much on bushwalking.
Both gorges are on the same track, north of the homestead, and you can easily see
them in one day.
If you want to go for a real swim the best place is Barker Pool, a long and deep
section of the Barker River, a short drive south of the homestead.
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And for sunset there is the Sunset Hill, just across from the homestead. (You'll need
low range gears to climb up here, or walk.)
Mount Hart Wilderness Lodge, 9191 4645 or 1800 240 504, www.mthart.com.au
Now managed by the mega touring company ATP. The above description does not fully apply
any more. Accommodation with dinner, bed and breakfast is $220 pp per night. Camping is
still available. From what I've heard the place has lost a lot of its charme.
195/463 Lennard Gorge

Lennard Gorge, part of the King Leopold Range Conservation Park (no dogs!), is one
of the little known and less visited gorges. The 8 km long access road to the south of
the Gibb is 4WD only and takes you to a parking bay. You used to be able to drive a
bit further, but the road is now so rough that you are better off walking the last bit.
Once you get to the end of the track the walk (about 1 km) gets more challenging.
There is a path, two actually, marked by rock cairns, but they can be hard to find early
in the year. You may have to find your own way. (It's easy once a new path has been
beaten through the wet season growth.)
If you head down towards the right you get to a ledge overlooking the falls plunging
30 m into the gorge below. It's deep and narrow and dramatic... Very, very
spectacular. You can follow the rock cairns down into the gorge to a big and deep
swimming hole. The track can be dangerous, its a looong way down if you slip!
There have been several serious and one fatal accident over the years, so please be
careful. If you stick more to the left you get to the top of the falls where it is also
possible to access the water for a swim. Either way, you need to take some time.
213/446 Lookout
This is another small parking area and lookout atop the King Leopold Ranges and
again the road has been sealed to prevent it from disappearing over the wet season.
About the King Leopold Range Conservation Park
Early 1992 saw one of the Kimberley's cattle empires fold. As a result several stations
were sold. CALM/DED (now known as the the DPaW) managed to buy Mt. Hart and
several other parcels of land in the Napier and Oscar ranges. The DPaW manages these
areas as parks, but not all of them are open to the public. The King Leopold Range
Conservation Park is 370.000 ha in size and protects some of the wildest country in the
Kimberley. It also includes Mt. Hart Wilderness Lodge, Lennard Gorge and Silent
Grove/Bell Gorge. A ranger is based at Silent Grove. Ring 9191 7058 with enquiries
regarding this area. Alternatively you can direct questions at the DPaW regional offices
in Derby (9193 1411) or Broome (9195 5500).
219/440 Bell Gorge

Bell Gorge is the most famous gorge on the Gibb River Road. It is also supposed to be
the most beautiful. Many people agree with that assessment. (I don't, there are too
many beautiful gorges in the Kimberley.)
Bell Gorge is about 30 km north-west of the Gibb River Road and the access road is
well maintained. You will pass the Silent Grove campground on the way in.
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The gorge is at the far end of the track. A short walk from the car park leads along the
pretty Bell Creek down to the gorge itself. The first part takes 30 minutes at the most
and takes you to the top of the falls. The area upstream is lovely, especially if you go
exploring a bit. This alone is a nice enough place for a picnic and swim. Some people
leave it at that, because the walk gets a bit harder now.
First you have to cross the creek on slippery rocks and then you scramble down a
steep rock wall. Eventually you end up on a wide ledge alongside the first, big pool
below the falls.
Once you get there everything is just perfect. The waterfalls are cascading down the
perfectly U-shaped cliffs, into the deep pool perfect for swimming, with large flat
rocks along the side, perfect to sit down, sun bathe, have a picnic or whatever else you
can think of. No wonder Bell Gorge is so popular. You can also follow the water over
a few more cascades and pools, as it continues on its way through the narrow gorge.
Well worth it for the views back if you climb up the hillside a bit!
Camping
The DPaW manages the whole area and operates the campground. You enter Silent
Grove 19 km from where you first turn off the Gibb River Road. It's a standard
campground with all the usual facilities: generator and non-generator areas, flushing
toilets and showers, drinking water and barbecues with supplied firewood for cooking.
The camping fee is $12 per person ($2.20 for children under 16), paid at the entrance
using the provided envelopes, or collected by the ranger.
Note: It's possible to book campsites online for other DPaW campgrounds in the
Kimberley, but NOT at Bell Gorge. It's first come, first served.
Also: only use supplied firewood, don't bring in your own to prevent spreading weed
seeds.
A word of warning: Bell Gorge has become extremely busy. During peak season the
rangers close the gorge itself once the parking area is full. You then have to wait until
someone leaves, before more people are allowed in.
The campground at Silent Grove is also packed during the main season, with over 200
people squeezing in.
Note: The King Leopold Range Conservation Park attracts an entry fee of $12 per
vehicle unless you have a parks pass.
See the chapter National Parks in Part II for pass prices.
227/432 Imintji Store

Important update: Please note that as of April 2015 Imintji is closed!!!
Imintji Community Roadhouse, or Imintji Store as it is more commonly called, is run
by the Imintji Aboriginal Community. Here you can get some general goods and refill
the tank. (Diesel only! This is the cheapest diesel on the Gibb as they make a point of
always being WELL below Mt. Barnett prices.) You can also put fresh ice in the esky,
get hot food or an ice-cream, you can top up your water supplies, buy some local art
and even camp there for a night.
The Imintji store is open all year round. (That doesn't necessarily mean that you can
get there all year round. Also, wet season hours vary, always check first if relying on
them outside the main season and also around Easter.) Eftpos is available and major
credit cards are accepted.
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Also available is Neville, the mechanic at Over the Range Mechanical Repairs. He
is located right next to the roadhouse and can patch your tyre, replace it or do repairs
on your vehicle.
Update 2014: Neville has moved! He now has his own listing 50 km further down.
Imintji Community Roadhouse, 9191 7471 currently closed!!!
Open 8 am to 4.30 pm. No guarantee that these hours won't change, so just make sure you
arrive late morning or early afternoon when they'll be open for sure. (Check wet or pre season
opening hours. They may also close for lunch during the quiet time of the year.)
Imintji Safari Camp is located near the Imintji Community. This is one of the exclusive
safari camps operated by APT Kimberley Wilderness Adventures, part of the mega
corporation APT. For more information see www.kimberleywilderness.com.au and the
camping information for the Bungles in Part III.
Update 2012: Like the Bungles camp, the Imintji camp has also been upgraded some
and been renamed into Bell Gorge Wilderness Lodge. Smart move from an
advertising point of view, but it's still at Imintji and nowhere near Bell Gorge...
252/407 T/o to Mt. House Station, Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary,

Mornington Wilderness Camp
Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary is owned and managed by the Australian Wildlife
Conservancy www.australianwildlife.org. The AWC is an independent non-profit
organisation that buys up properties in Australia and then establishes sanctuaries. The
sanctuaries protect endangered wildlife species by protecting their habitats.
The stars at Mornington include the Gouldian Finch, the Purple-crowned Fairy-wren
and the dingo.
Mornington is unique because the focus here is on conservation work and not on
tourism, and that makes for a very special vibe. And even though tourism is not the
main objective, the facilities here most definitely rank among the very best along the
Gibb River Road.
This is a bigger detour and requires at least one extra night in your schedule. I would
recommend two or even three.
The Wilderness Camp is a bit off the beaten track, 90 km off the Gibb River Road to
be precise. You have to negotiate numerous creek crossings on your way in.
Depending on the time of the year it can be a rough drive, but in my eyes that makes it
even more attractive, because fewer people are willing to make the detour.
(Update: I have been raving about Mornington for years. With the result that fewer
and fewer people actually skip this detour.)
It is also a very scenic track, right from the moment you leave the Gibb River Road.
The drive offers beautiful views over the ranges and escarpments. During the second
half you will also see many magnificent and unusual boab trees, a good opportunity to
get some great photos. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours for this drive.
When you first turn south-east off the Gibb River Road you pass a little radio booth.
All visitors to Mornington need to stop here and radio ahead. (Instructions are in
the booth.) Calling ahead is particularly important if you are travelling during the
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main season and haven't booked ahead. Beware that these days the place fills up! Yes,
even the campground.
If you are concerned about the track conditions you can also get last minute details. If
there is anything you need to know about the drive in, the staff will let you know.
As you continue your drive you first pass the track to Mt. House homestead (at
10 km) and the track to Moll Gorge (at 33 km).
There are no more tourist facilities at Mt. House Station. You may still be able to
camp at Moll Gorge, but you need to get permission from Mt. House first. (Ring 9191
4649 or 9191 4703). It's a rough track and there are no facilities.
Stay on the main track and you reach a sign posted junction after 55 km. Veer right to
get to Mornington.
The left track takes you to Tablelands Station. The "Tablelands Track" is a magnificent
but challenging track that theoretically goes all the way through to the Great Northern
Highway. In reality it has been closed at Teronis Gorge.
The 312.000 ha Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary covers much of the upper catchment
area of the Fitzroy River and sections of the King Leopold Ranges. It comprises four
major river systems and two gorges, protecting a range of ecosystems. You can access
the Fitzroy River, Adcock River, Annie Creek, Sir John Gorge and Dimond Gorge, go
swimming, birdwatching, hiking, canoeing, take guided eco-tours, explore the selfdrive trails... And it's just spectacular country. I'd say stay two nights as a minimum,
more if you can..
The $25 Wilderness Sanctuary Pass is charged per vehicle and gives you access to the
gorges in the area. They even offer some tyre and mechanical repair facilities.
The Mornington Wilderness Camp is your base here. You can enjoy stylish full
accommodation in the comfortable safari tents. Alternatively pitch your own tent at
the large and shady creekside campground and enjoy use of the bar and the fabulous
bush restaurant if you like. Dinner is a set two course menu and the chef is fabulous.
(Though I can't guarantee that he'll stay on for the next season.)
The fully licensed bar/restaurant doubles as the reception, attached is also an
informational display area, and free information nights are held several times per
week (recommended).
The 24 km self drive trail from the camp to Dimond Gorge takes about 1.5 hours
return (you will be supplied with detailed trek notes). Don't plan less for it because
you will want to stop and take photos and admire the views on the way! This is one of
the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley. And the drive is not all there is to it.
Get a packed lunch hamper, life jackets and paddles from the reception and explore
the 2 km gorge in a hired canoe (or in your own).
As you canoe through the narrow gap near the start of the gorge, picture what would
have happened to this wonderful area if the plans to dam the Fitzroy River and to pipe
all the water down to Perth would have gone ahead. This is the site where the
proposed dam was to be built!
The massive, 23 km long Sir John Gorge is 14 km from the camp. This track is
rougher than the track to Dimond and you need low range gears to climb out of the
last creek crossing.
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If you are lucky, you can explore the first three pools of the gorge by canoe. I say
lucky, because there is only one canoe. They only allow two people in the gorge at a
time, which of course makes it an extra special trip! Nothing beats the feeling of
having a place as powerful as this one entirely to yourself...
I can't think of a better way to spend a day. It is well worth the expense.
And even if you don't manage to nab the canoe, you can still have a great day or half
day. Bushwalkers could hike up a long way if they like, you can swim and laze along
the first pool or see if you can spot the Short-eared Rock-wallabies that live in the
cliffs along the second pool. If you can't make time for a full day, make sure you
spend at least one sunset down here.
If you ever want to go for just a quick swim, check out Bluebush and Cadjeput, two
swimming holes, each only a 20 minute drive from camp, and both also great for a
picnic, relaxing and bird watching. Cadjeput is in my opinion the nicer one, and a
good place to observe freshwater crocodiles if you have time and patience. (Follow
the edge of the water to the right for several hundred meters, find a quiet place to sit,
watch and enjoy.)
You can also go for a short walk along Annie Creek (1 km), starting near the
campground and reception. You can hire snorkels or binoculars for your excursions
and of course you can also join the Mornington guides on one of the many
birdwatching and ecological tours they offer. (See website for info on tours.)
The Savanna Woodland Trail (1.6 km) is another nice little trail through the
woodlands below the escarpment. It starts just 50m north of Annie Creek.
In the end you will likely feel that two nights here was nowhere near enough.
Mornington Wilderness Camp, 9191 7406 or 1800 631 946,
http://www.australianwildlife.org/...
Wilderness Sanctuary Pass required ($25). Safari tents with ensuite, full board ($ 285 pp),
large, shady campground (full amenities, $18.50 pp, child $8, no generators), bush restaurant
and bar. Cooked breakfast $26, continental $16, lunch hamper $29, two course set dinner $60.
Cakes and snacks available during the day.
Double canoe for Dimond Gorge $65, for Sir John Gorge (full day) $165, includes lunch
hamper. (You can hire the canoe withouth the hamper.)
Selection of guided tours available. Please organise your visit ahead.
256/403 Charnley River Station

Charnley River Station was formerly called Beverly Springs and run by Marion Nixon
and her husband. (Marion became known for her book Children in the Sun, where
she describes her life bringing up her five children on the station). This was the very
first station along the Gibb River Road to offer accommodation to tourists. The
property was then bought by Peter and Cheryl Camp who renamed it into Charnley
River.
Charnley River Station is located 42 km north of the Gibb River Road and is a
working cattle station that also grows a range of seed crops. The tourism side is
Cheryl's baby, who mainly wants people to enjoy the place and have a good time.
(The money is in the cattle, not the campers...) We are lucky that she feels that way
about tourists, because Charnley River covers some great country!
The station caters to general tourists as well as tours and specialist groups.
Accommodation is in Rondavels with private facilities or in the self contained
homestead bunkhouse.
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They do breakfasts, lunches and dinners, all taken in the big communal dining
room/kitchen at the welcoming homestead.
Camping is available at the large campground near the homestead. Dogs used to be
welcome, but unfortunately as of 2012 not any more. Bushcamping used to be
available at the gorges north of the homestead (and some camping guide books still
list Grevillea Gorge as an available campsite), but no more. After one of their guests
got lost for a whole day and they discovered that it is impossible to get liability
insurance cover for such a bush camping area, they now restrict camping to the
homestead grounds.
From there you can take self guided driving tours, explore their many gorges on foot
or by hired canoe, arrange a scenic flight or a guided tour, go fishing, birdwatching...
It's not hard to keep yourself entertained for a few days.
Donkey Pool is a series of small rock pools, a 20 minute drive from the campground.
It's a good place for a quick dip and a picnic if you have little time but unfortunately
becomes stagnant and smelly later in the year, as those small places do. On the way to
Donkey Pool you pass the turn off to Grevillea and Dillie gorges (both about 1 hr 15
and minutes from the homestead), and a bit further on the turn off to Junction Gorge
(about an hour's drive).
Grevillea Gorge is a steep narrow gorge, consisting of two main pools. Ladders are
provided to get down to the first pool. From there it is a very short walk to the top of
the waterfall from where you can overlook the second pool. It's possible to climb
down, but it's a sheer drop and most people are content to enjoy the views from the
top. Which means if you do climb down the chances are good that you'll have that
pool to yourself. The second pool is much cooler and shadier than the one at the top.
You can continue to find a third small pool (no swimming here due to a resident
freshwater croc) and follow the creek to find some rock art sites.
Lilly Pool is just above Grevillea Gorge and theoretically you can walk from one to
the other. That is, if you feel like rock climbing and pushing through pandanus
thickets... the easier way is to just jump back in the car and follow the main track for
another couple of minutes to Pott's Camp. From here white paint on the rocks guides
you to a creek bed. Cross it to pick up more white markers on the other side, which
lead you around and down to the pool. This is a really lovely and peaceful place for
swimming and relaxing.
Dillie Gorge is also accessed via the Grevillea Gorge track. (The turn off is
signposted.) A short walk from the car park leads you down to the rapids connecting
the shallow upstream pool with the very large and deep downstream section of the
gorge. Cross the rapids and on the other side you find a large rocky ledge and some
shade. You also find a couple of canoes that you can hire to explore that pool further.
(If you are a good swimmer you can just swim the distance to the bend in the pool,
from where you can see to the end of it.)
Junction Gorge is on a different track. The turn off is beyond the t/o to
Grevillea/Dillie, before you get to Donkey Pool. I haven't seen Junction Gorge
myself, because this track remains boggy until later in the dry. (If you are here early
in the season, check access to the other gorges too.)
Update: Charnley River Station changed hands again in 2011. Luckily it seems that not much
will change for visitors. The plan is to continue the tourism operation as before.
Charnley River will also continue to operate as a cattle station. Only a small part of the land
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will be managed as a wildlife sanctuary by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy. (The AWC
has an arrangement with the owner, it is not the owner of Charnley River.)
2012 Update: Accommodation with or without meals--will only be avaliable in the "Guest
House" (the renovated old bunk house). And dogs are NOT allowed any more. A new website
is online. See it for more information.
2014 Update: No accommodation and meals will be available this season!
Charnley River Station, 9191 4646
Self contained guesthouse $165 for 2, additional guests $45 pp, children $25.
Breakfasts ($20), cut lunches ($15), two course dinner ($45). Children's prices depend on age.
Camping ($35 for 2, children $5), occasional get together sausage sizzles at communal BBQ
and campfire.
Book accommodation ahead to make sure they have room for you and let them know ahead if
you want meals. Charnley River Station is one of the places where it's handy to have cash.
(Though in a pinch you can pay with credit card over their computer.) No dogs any more!
If you drive into Charnley River Station keep an eye out for a creek crossing, 6.7 km
from the Gibb River Road turn off. 100 metres past the crossing look for a huge boab
tree on your right. It has the letters "FH" emblazoned on its trunk. "FH" stands for Frank
Hann, the explorer. Those letters have adorned that boab trunk since 1898... There are
more FH boabs in this part of the Kimberley, but none as close to a major road.
Update: The road has been rerouted in that area and the tree is now a short way up the
old road which branches off to the south (left) when heading in.
272/387 Adcock Gorge

This is another gorgeous little place that most tourists bypass. Adcock Gorge is about
5 km off the Gibb River Road, along a very rocky 4WD track. The walk is very short,
but you'll have to climb over a few boulders as you make your way along and across a
pretty and shady lily pond.
At the end you find a beautiful deep green pool with a small waterfall, ferns and
grassy edges. There shouldn't be too many other people here. In fact, we didn't see
any. I imagine Adcock Gorge would be particularly beautiful in the afternoon (we
were there in the morning), when the sun lights up the red rocks surrounding it.
Unfortunately camping is most definitely not allowed here any more!
It's one of those cases where some idiots have ruined things for everybody else. Like
most places along the Gibb River Road, Adcock Gorge is privately owned. The
owners were fed up with the mess, rubbish and destruction that campers left behind.
They closed it altogether, then decided to make it accessible again as a day use area.
As long as everybody treats the place with respect it will hopefully remain open.
On a positive note, Adcock Gorge is one of the places where you can take your dog
for a swim.
276/483 Over the Range Tyre & Mechanical Repairs

Formerly located at Imintji, Neville has been helping people survive the Gibb River
Road since 1999. Neville is the only licensed mechanic west of Home Valley Station,
he'll sort out your tyres, sell you whatever parts or fluids you need (of course he
doesn't stock everything but he does have a pretty good range) and he can also do a
range of other mechanical and welding jobs. He even offers a mobile service, helping
you wherever you are.
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Nothing wrong with your car? Call in and say hello anyway because Neville and
Leonie like meeting people and showing off their impressive wet season photos :-).
Over the Range Tyre & Mechanical Repairs, 9191 7887 or 0147 150 638
Tyre repairs and replacements, minor mechanical and welding repairs, mobile service. No
towing.
291/368 Galvans Gorge

To get to Galvans Gorge you leave your vehicle in the car park right at the side of the
main road and walk the last kilometre. It's the most easily accessible gorge on the
Gibb River Road, so it's always busy.
This is a smaller gorge, similar in size to Adcock Gorge, but the pool is more than big
and deep enough to swim a few laps. There is also a rope in one of the trees to swing
on and jump and the falls are big enough to sit on the rocks underneath and get a back
massage. While they are flowing, that is. And that's only early in the season.
All in all Galvans Gorge is very pleasant spot. Day use only, no camping but dogs are
fine.
305/354 Mt Barnett Roadhouse and Manning Gorge

Manning Gorge is only accessible via Mt Barnett Roadhouse and there is an entry fee.
The $20 access fee includes your camping fee, so it's not unreasonable, as long as you
camp here.
Mt Barnett Roadhouse
Mt Barnett Station and the roadhouse is owned and worked by the Kupungarri
Aboriginal Community.
The roadhouse is really well equipped, well set up and offers good service. You can
get all fuels here, oils and repairs, groceries, even fruit and vegetables, hot foods, cold
foods and the (second?) biggest ice blocks in the whole Kimberley. (You need a big
esky to fit them in, but if you have one of those you will appreciate the ice you can
buy here!)
There is a central rubbish disposal trailer, toilets, showers and laundry facilities.
The roadhouse is open seven days a week during tourist season, from 7 am to 5 pm.
(Restricted opening hours during the off season).
Ok, let's finally get to Manning Gorge.
Manning Gorge and Campground

When you pay your fee you are handed a mud map that shows how the camping area
is laid out and how you get to the gorge.
The camping area is 7 km from the roadhouse and is very spacious and shady with
lots of big boab trees. Unfortunately there is no separate generator area, so you have
to put up with the noise. Facilities include a few drop toilets, a few flushing toilets, a
couple of showers, a big central water tank (not for drinking) and fire places. You
have to supply your own fire wood from the outside. Dogs are ok.
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The walk to Manning Gorge and the Manning Gorge Falls is about 2 km and starts
from the campground. I think it's a great walk and thoroughly enjoyed it, but others
complain it's hot and long.
Well, the beginning certainly isn't hot, because to start with you have to cross the
Manning River. In the old days you had to swim across the pool and float your stuff
across in the little provided styrofoam boxes. Or you walked around to wade across
further upstream, criss-crossing the deep creek several times, of course on slippery
rocks, treacherous logs, mud etc. It was good fun to watch others do it.
These days there is a little dinghy and an endless rope so you can pull yourself across
and stay dry. Easy.
After that the walk is fairly easy. It is open and sunny, but the scenery is beautiful.
You can't get lost, because the track is so well marked with hundreds of rock cairns
and red disks and arrows and beer cans and all sorts of other markers strung into the
trees. Looks like someone was having fun.
The gorge itself is huge and you can easily spend a couple of hours exploring it. It has
several pools to swim through and rocks to climb up and over. You can also climb to
the top of the waterfall. If you want to see the waterfall cascading over the full width
of the rocks, as it's shown in most pictures of Manning Gorge, then you need to be
there real early in the season. It dries up fast. But the pools are deep and swimming is
possible all year round.
There are several different spots to choose from to spread out your towel and picnic
hamper, so it should still be ok even when it gets busy.
Mt Barnett Roadhouse and Manning Gorge, 9191 7007
$20 access fee for Manning Gorge includes camping. Well equipped roadhouse offering just
about everything: all fuels except LPG, oils and repairs, groceries, even fruit and vegetables
(though they may run out of fresh food before you get there), hot foods, cold foods, ice,
drinking water, central rubbish disposal trailer, toilets, showers and laundry facilities. Eftpos
facilities available and major credit cards accepted.
334/325 Barnett River Gorges

Also on the northern side, this used to be the only official free bushcamping site along
the Gibb River Road. As of 2008 camping is not allowed any more.
This was a good place to spend a night before or after visiting Manning Gorge. You
can still use it as a picnic area during the day time. (Though if nobody camps there
any more there may not be any cleared areas.)
The 3 km track in is a bit rough and the gorges themselves are not considered that
spectacular as far as gorges go. But it's still a lovely place for a swim.
To get to the Barnett River Gorges take the track to the right at every fork (the others
lead to the previous camp sites) until you get to the river. It's best to park there and
walk the last few hundred metres as the last part of the track is extremely rough.
The 500 metre easy walk at the end of the track is marked by rock cairns and takes
you to the mouth of the gorge, a very deep pool and a waterfall.
You can access the deep, wide river in two different spots (if you can spot all the
markers, that is) and even from the car park area you can get to some small rapids and
pools if you follow the rock slabs.
You can also climb across the top of the cliffs to access the pools at the top of the
waterfall.
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344/315 Mt Elizabeth Station

Mt Elizabeth Station, 29 km off the Gibb River Road, offers homestead
accommodation with a three course dinner (BYO alcohol), bed and breakfast at a fair
price. The rooms are simple twin share rooms.
There is also a spacious camping area (unpowered) with hot showers, flushing toilets
and BBQs for cooking. Dinner at the homestead can be arranged for campers if you
let them know ahead.
You can explore their land by 4WD (self guided), there are a couple of beautiful
gorges, hiking, swimming and fishing, and there are also several exceptional rock art
sites that can be visited via an Aboriginal guided tour in a station vehicle.
What I really like about Mt. Elizabeth is that it is still 100% a working Kimberley
cattle station. There is no missing that you are on a station, no hint of tourist resort.
Also, the tracks and gorges here are definitely for the more adventurous visitors!
Wunnumurra Gorge is a spectacular place, and the track out there is spectacular,
too, in its own way. Allow about 45 min for the very rough and rocky drive, in low
range second gear nearly all the way, with several sections to climb up or down in
first gear. The last drop, just 1 km before the end of the track, is one that less
experienced people may decide to skip. One kilometre is not that far to walk.
The hike from the parking area to the river is marked with blue ribbons and you reach
the picturesque, paperbark and pandanus lined river upstream from the falls. To get to
the gorge turn left and follow the edge until you get to the drop. If the climb down
looks too scary, grab the extension ladder that's lying somewhere on the rock ledge to
your left.
The pool at the bottom is huge, the cliff face spectacular, the waterfall has a nice rock
bench underneath so you can grab a back massage, there is the prettiest white beach
you could wish for, shade from paperbark trees... And if you make your way
downstream to the second bluff on the left side (about 500 m), you even find some
very well preserved Wandjinas.
You need to allow at least half a day for Wunnamurra, leaving the homestead no later
than lunch time, but a full day would be better. It's a great place.
Warla Gorge on the Hann River is a much more relaxed and peaceful place. The
9.5 km track turns off of the Mt. Elizabeth main access road, about 9 km from the
homestead. It's a bit rough as well and the drive takes about 35 min. Again, if insecure
you may want to skip the last drop and the deep sand at the end. It's only a few steps
from here to the river.
This is not really a gorge, just a bit of a cliff face along the opposite side of the river
and a white beach on the side you're on. It's a place for relaxing, reading and a picnic
(barbecue facilities are provided).
You can also go on their tour or tag-along (with commentary over 2-way) to get some
insight into the operating of a cattle station, view Bradshaw and Wandjina rock art
and enjoy lunch and a swim at one of the swimming holes.
Mount Elizabeth Station, 9191 4644, www.mountelizabethstation.com,
Homestead accommodation in simple twin share rooms (shared facilities) with three course
dinner (BYO alcohol), bed and breakfast at a fair price. Spacious unpowered camping area
with hot showers, flushing toilets and BBQs for cooking. Dinner at the homestead can be
arranged. Please book ahead for accommodation and meals. Campers can just rock up.
Guided 4WD and Aboriginal art tours available.
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Walcott Inlet
One of the access tracks to the Walcott Inlet starts from Mt Elizabeth Station. There is
another track that crosses Charnley River Station, but the one from Mt Elizabeth Station
is the easier one and is actually maintained by the station and Bachsten Camp. The
two tracks join east of Bachsten Camp.
This is extremely remote and wild country and a very challenging drive that takes two
days each way. You need to get permission from Mt Elizabeth Station to drive to
Bachsten Camp and a permit from Bushtrack Safaris (the owners of Bachsten Camp) to
continue to Walcott Inlet. (You can usually pay both fees to one of them.)
Bushtrack Safaris also operate 4WD tagalong tours to this area. Unless you are a
seasoned 4WDriver you are well advised to go with someone who knows this track. In
any case you should only make this trip with at least two vehicles.
You can get all the information you need from Mt. Elizabeth and Bushtrack.
Bushtrack Safaris, 9191 1547, www.bushtracksafaris.com.au
415/244 T/o to Drysdale River Homestead, Mitchell Plateau

(Mitchell Falls) and Kalumburu
This detour along the Kalumburu Road and Mitchell Plateau Track is covered in a
separate chapter further below.
485/174 Ellenbrae Station

Ellenbrae Station is situated 5 km north of the Gibb River Road. The small, family run
place offers great camping facilities (with a nice swimming hole) and accommodation
in basic stockmen's cabins.
They also offer dinners and breakfast for accommodated guests and snacks for all
other visitors (toasted sandwiches, scones, cream&jam, coffee, soft drinks, 8am-4pm).
Please ring ahead if youd like to stay here.
There are no gorges or walks on Ellenbrae, and no sightseeing other than seeing the
place itself, which is definitely worth a look!
Every building and every structure here is built by hand from bush materials, with
ingenuity and creativity. The facilities are basic and unusual, like the boab bathroom
(an outdoor bathroom attached to a massive boab tree) or the donkey water heater at
the campground (stick in 2 or 3 bits of the provided fire wood and voila, hot shower
water in 15 minutes).
The gardens are lovely and so is the veranda with the well visited bird feeders where
you enjoy your scones. If you can't or don't want to spend a night, Ellenbrae is in the
perfect location for morning tea if coming from Home Valley Station, or afternoon tea
if coming from Mt. Barnett.
Ellenbrae Station, 9161 4325, www.ellenbraestation.com.au
Bush accommodation with shared facilities, camp kitchen and bbq/fire pit (wood supplied).
Great campground. Dinner and beakfast for accommodated guests, snacks available during
the day to all visitors. Book ahead for accommodation and meals. Also does tyre repairs.
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506/153 Durack River Crossing

This one can be exciting at the beginning of the season. (Or stop you from going any
further!) The crossing has permanent water and is supposed to be crocodile free. (No
guarantees. Saltwater crocodiles are extending their range every wet season. I'd say
sooner or later we'll see one here.)
There are also several bush camping sites on the Kununurra side of the river,
accessible via very soft and sandy tracks.
534/125 Jack's Waterhole, Durack River Station

The tourist facilities at Jack's Waterhole fell victim to the 2002 wet season floods. The
homestead has not been rebuilt and the station is abandoned. No public access.
Like Home Valley Station (see below), Jack's Waterhole is owned by the Indigenous
Land Corporation. Home Valley Station offers fishing tours to Jack's Waterhole and
guests of the station can visit Jack's Waterhole on a self guided day tour. (You need a
key to the gate). Contact Home Valley Station for more information.
591/68 Lookout
If you pull up at the sunset lookout you'll see not only magnificent views over the
Pentecost River and the Cockburn Ranges, but also a sign from Home Valley Station
(you're already on their land):
"No camping, No fires, No passing the homestead without stopping for a beer!"
593/66 Home Valley Station

The 700,000 acre Home Valley Station was owned by the Indigenous Land
Corporation and is now part of Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia. It offers
programs for indigenous students and trainees from many Aboriginal communities in
the Kimberley, teaching practical skills like fencing, welding or concreting,
horsemanship and stock handling. However, that training/teaching side of Home
Valley Station is not immediately obvious to the traveller. The main focus here is
clearly upmarket tourism.
When Home Valley Station opened for tourism a few years ago it was a very rustic,
down to earth place, still a real Kimberley station. Then they closed again for stage
two of the upgrades, and when they reopened in July 2008 you didn't recognise the
place.
Now as you arrive you feel like you pull up in a major holiday resort. The
campground near the homestead has manicured lawns and immaculate flower beds, a
massive and bright green plastic children's play structure thingy (reminiscent of those
at McDonalds but bigger), a big pool with banana lounges and water fountain
feature... The facilities are excellent and most people seem to love this style.
Located just a couple of kilometres off the Gibb River Road, Home Valley is just
above the Pentecost River Crossing and stretches alongside the picturesque Bindoola
Creek. Three major rivers run on the property: the Salmond, the Durack and the
Pentecost River. With all the creeks, waterfalls, gorges, springs, lagoons, escarpments,
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salt flats and beaches the station offers pretty much everything you could ask for in
the Kimberley. But unless you join the offered tours, the area is impossible to access.
I was told the plan is to put in some four wheel drive tracks for visitors, but no word
yet regarding when that may happen. There are some walking trails, but walking only
gets you so far.
At this point the only available self guided excursion is a trip to the Bindaloo gorge
and pools, which are located 15.5 kilometres from the homestead, along the Gibb
River Road, and of course a trip to the sunset lookout (see previous page).
Accommodation at HVS is available in stylish "Grass Castles" (a play on the title of
Mary Durack's book about the Kimberley's pioneering days: "Kings in Grass
Castles"), luxurious, individual bungalows with a private deck overlooking Bindoola
Creek. Or take something in between, like the tented cabins (Sand Castles) in a
nearby bush setting or the twin or double guesthouse rooms near the homestead.
In addition to the already mentioned campground near the homestead there is also a
fantastic and very spacious bush campground, right on the bank of the Pentecost
River. (The 8 km drive is referred to as a 4WD track, but I can't imagine where you
would want to use 4WD here.) To call the camp a bush camp is a bit misleading as the
facilities are excellent: an ablution block with big bathrooms with hot showers,
flushing toilets, sinks and mirrors, chairs and clothes hooks... bigger than my own
bathroom at home! There are big shelters with concrete floors and picnic tables, fires
are allowed and so are generators. The views over the Cockburn Range at sunset are
stunning. You can also launch boats and the fishing is excellent.
So even if like me you are not into big tourism developments at all, the Bindaloo Bush
Camp makes HVS worth a visit!
The food at the Dusty Bar & Grill is also absolutely fabulous and the servings are
generous.
The licensed Bar & Grill is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner (with evening
entertainment) and snacks and there is also a small store at the reception where you
can buy some groceries and snacks, ice, bait and cool drinks.
Home Valley Station offers a range of tours and activities: fishing tours, 4WD or tag
along tours, canoeing, bird watching tours, horse riding, cattle mustering experiences,
indigenous guided culture tours... Contact them or see their website for details.
Home Valley Station, 9161 4322, www.homevalley.com.au
$17 pp for unpowered camping (child $5), $20 surcharge for powered sites. Guesthouse
rooms $245 per room, sand castles (now called eco tents) $140 for up to four people, grass
castles $345. All accommodation prices include buffet breakfast. Eftpos is available, also
some mechanical repairs, fuel isn't.
602/57 Pentecost River Crossing, Karunjie Road

This is the most famous river crossing on the Gibb River Road and by far the most
photographed location along the whole road. The beautiful photos of the crossing with
the Cockburn Ranges in the background are taken from the Home Valley Station side
of the river. (For the next 50 or so kilometres the red, sheer cliffs of the ranges
dominate the views, a stunning sight in the evening light!)
The crossing can be a major obstacle to an early season Gibb River Road trip. If you
arrive in the Kimberley in April/early May get detailed information on the water level
here and the condition of the crossing. The problem with the crossing is that you can't
walk through to check it out because the river is full of saltwater crocodiles.
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Having said all that, this crossing is only an issue in the first few weeks after the road
has been opened. The water level drops fast and the road underneath consists of firmly
packed rocks. Depending how big the wet season was you may drive across in early
May and wonder what the fuss is all about.
This river section is tidal. There is freshwater upstream and saltwater downstream.
Fishing is excellent downstream and it's a very popular place for locals from
Kununurra and Wyndham who come down here to fish and camp along the Pentecost
and King rivers on weekends.
Turning left just on the other side of the crossing (Kununurra side) takes you down the
old Karunjie Road. The track follows the Pentecost River north, then swings east to
join the King River Road at the Boab Prison Tree, crosses the King River and
eventually takes you past the Moochalabra Dam to Wyndham.
The Karunjie is nothing like the Gibb River Road. This is a rough track, in fact, very
rough in sections, especially earlier in the year. You want to please be careful,
especially on the mudflats out here. Make sure they really are dry and it's not just a
thin surface crust.
None of my readers ever had any problems (despite being 4WD virgins), all loved the
drive, but all were a bit surprised by just how adventuresome the drive is. One
described the Gibb River Road as silky smooth in comparison.
So: a great track for the adventurous!
On the way you will pass Diggers Rest Station, which offers accommodation,
camping, great horse trekking tours and a range of other activities. Great drive, great
place! See the Wyndham chapter for more details on the Wyndham end of the road
(i.e. the King River Road).
Diggers Rest Station , 9161 1029, www.diggersreststation.com.au
Camping, bush huts and air-conditioned bunk house. Cook your own meals on the barbecue
or go for one of the home cooked meals at the homestead (breakfast $18, lunch $15, dinner
$28 and snacks). Bush camping $10, with facilities $15 pp, bunk house unit $130 for two,
extra person $35, homestead bush hut $110 for two.
626/33 T/o to El Questro Wilderness Park (Station Homestead

and Township, Zebedee Springs, El Questro Gorge...)
While the one million acre El Questro is still a working cattle station, it is mostly
known as a high end tourism destination. El Questro is by far the biggest and best
known tourist venture in the Kimberley. Their slick marketing machine is so efficient
that people overseas get the impression El Questro is the Kimberley and the
Kimberley is El Questro.
El Questro used to be owned by Voyages, the same mega corporation that also owns
Yulara Resort at Uluru/Ayers Rock. (Voyages sold EQ in 2010 to fellow giant
Delaware Parks and Resorts). And like Yulara it receives mixed feedback. Many
people complain that El Questro is too touristy. It is also perceived as overpriced.
Others love the good facilities and professional service. I guess, as usual, it all
depends what you expect.
Despite that initial impression, El Questro does cater for every budget and style
including bush campers. It is in fact a great destination for adventurous campers and
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4WDers with enough time, and the country is absolutely stunning. There are no words
to describe it adequately. It is, however, huge. Ideally you should bring a few days to
see it. Most people do not have enough time to fully appreciate what El Questro has to
offer, hence the sometimes negative remarks from self drive travellers.
The centre of operations is the El Questro township. Yes, township. Gives you an idea
of the size of the operation. It is located some 16 km south of the Gibb River Road.
The road is usually good, but early in the season you may come across a few deeper
river and creek crossings. The township is your first stop unless you already own a
permit.
To access anything on El Questro you need to purchase an El Questro Wilderness
Park Permit. This pass is valid for seven days and allows you to use the roads and
hiking trails inside the park. Passes can be purchased at the station township, at Emma
Gorge (see next chapter) and from the reservations office in Kununurra (next door to
the Visitor Centre). The price is $20 per person (children under 12 free). If you aren't
staying over night you can purchase a day pass for $12.
The easiest places to visit from the township are El Questro Gorge and the Zebedee
Hot Springs.
The lovely, shady walk through El Questro Gorge leads along the cool, palm studded
gorge floor, between fern covered walls, and involves a swim across a pool half way,
ending at a little waterfall where you can have another swim.
If you can, visit Zebedee Springs really early in the morning, like 6 -7 am. From 8 am
onwards the tour busses are arriving, significantly reducing the appeal of the place.
Definitely get there well before lunch time, because at lunch time everybody gets
kicked out to make room for the more illustrious clientele!
Also popular are the boat cruises on Chamberlain Gorge.
(Emma Gorge, the other attraction that most El Questro visitors stop at, is in a totally
different location, on the other side of the Gibb River Road. See below.)
If all you have is one day then this is all you'll be able to fit in and it's a very tight fit,
too. Many self drivers leave it at that. And that means they have barely scratched the
surface of the place. As I already mentioned, the park is huge and driving around will
take up a fair bit of your time. To explore the park further you need to stay over night.
If you do bring enough time (several nights) then there is a lot to explore here!
El Questro also offers a huge variety of tours in the park. Boating, fishing, horse
riding, 4WD tours, scenic flights, guided bush walks... Check out the activities section
of their website www.elquestro.com.au to get an idea just how much there is to see
and do.
Accommodation
The most exclusive accommodation is at El Questro Homestead. It has always been
very flashy, and in 2008 it received another 1.6 million dollar design upgrade. The
homestead is for those looking for ultra luxury. (Prices start from just under two
thousand dollars a night.)
However, there is accommodation for us mere mortals, too. At the station township
you can rent air conditioned bungalows (for 1-6 people) on the banks of the Pentecost
River. Then there are of course the tented cabins at Emma Gorge Resort, covered
below.
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If you are on a budget you can choose from two campgrounds. Black Cockatoo is a
large and centrally located area, close to bathrooms, laundry and the store. If you
prefer peace and privacy ask for one of the riverside campsites. The 25 individual and
secluded sites are a ten minute drive from the station, on the river, and have no
facilities. But you have access to the central facilities at the township.
El Questro Station, 1300 233 243, 03 9426 7540, 9169 1777 (local booking office) or 9161
4318 (station office), www.elquestro.com.au
7 day Wilderness Park permit $20, day permit $12, children under 12 free. Homestead
accommodation from $1969 a night. Station township bungalows from $329. Black Cockatoo
camping $20 and riverside camping $28 per night. Steakhouse Restaurant (breakfast, lunch,
dinner), and Swinging Arm Bar (live entertainment), store (fuel, gas, road supplies, maps...)
Eftpos is available and credit cards are accepted.
Dogs permitted in camping grounds and car parks only.
636/23 Emma Gorge Resort

Emma Gorge, though also part of El Questro, is on the other side of the Gibb River
Road. Access is via a 2 km track and the entry fee is covered by your El Questro
Wilderness Park Pass. The 1.6 km walk up the gorge to the pool and waterfall at the
end used to be lovely and shaded, until the 2005 wet season came along and changed
things a bit. It was then very open and sunny for a while, but now things have grown
back a bit again. The trail is rocky and involves some clambering at the end. But as
you'll see, it's well worth the effort!
Accommodation in the resort is in tented cabins with private bathrooms. There is also
a pool, a restaurant with a fully licensed bar and a small store. Camping is not
available.
If you don't want to buy a 7 day park pass for El Questro and just want to go for a
quick stroll to the waterfall and have a swim, the day pass is $12 per nose.
Emma Gorge Resort/El Questro, 9169 1777, www.elquestro.com.au/El-Questro-EmmaGorge.aspx
Safari style tented cabins with private bathrooms $289. Pool, restaurant, bar, laundry
facilities, small store, no camping.
643/16 King River Crossing

Normally dry. And if not then watch out for saltwater crocs.
659/0 Victoria Highway Intersection

You Made It!
Yay. Being back on the bitumen (which these days already starts at the ELQ turn off!)
comes as something of a relief after days and days of rattling. Once you reach the
highway you have half an hour left to get used to the idea of civilization again. (Not
easy!)
Wyndham is to your left (48 km) and Kununurra is to your right (53 km).
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KALUMBURU ROAD AND MITCHELL PLATEAU

This trip into the northern Kimberley is for people with a sense of adventure (and
sufficient time!).
The Kalumburu Road is a detour that you can access from the Gibb River Road. The
turn off is 407 km from Derby, or 240 km from the Wyndham/Kununurra highway
intersection.
There are two main reasons people drive up here. One is the Mitchell River National
Park.
The Mitchell Falls inside the park are one of the most photographed attractions of the
Kimberley. However, no photo could ever do this area justice. It's not just the
Mitchell Falls that make it special, there is a lot more to discover and do here. The
Mitchell Plateau is one of my favourite places in the Kimberley. Part of the reason is,
as so often, that it is not the easiest to access.
It is a big detour and the last part of the trip is not a gazetted road. That means many
hire car companies do not insure you if you to take their vehicles up there (ask them
for specific information on this). That and the rough access track keep the visitor
numbers down.
The second attraction is on the coast, at the end of the Kalumburu Road: the
Aboriginal community Kalumburu is one of the top destinations for our local mad
keen fishermen. It's one of the most welcoming communities in the Kimberley and
has some spectacular beaches, great camping spots and a rich history to discover.
Allow about five hours for the drive from the Gibb River Road turn off to the Mitchell
Plateau or Kalumburu. You may even want to camp an extra night on the way. There
sure are a few places worth stopping at!
DRYSDALE RIVER STATION

2014 will be our 28th year here, making our family by far the longest resident
leaseholder since this land was first released. As we have no intention of departing we
hope you get to visit us and the wonderful North Kimberley one day.
This family run business is a working cattle station, running 8000 head of cattle on a
million acres. Drysdale River Station is located 60 km from the Gibb River Road. It is
the last civilization outpost for people visiting the Mitchell Plateau!
Drysdale Homestead is a friendly place where you can get fuel (diesel and unleaded),
get a tyre repaired, get ice, basic supplies, and also accommodation and meals (more
details below). It's also the last place where you can get any of the above. After here
you need to be totally self sufficient until you get to Kalumburu or until you get back
to Drysdale.
If you are early in the season and need accurate and up to date information about the
state of the roads and rivers, ask here.
The bar and beer garden is great, too. Try to make it here for lunch (available 11am
2 pm). Their burgers are legendary.
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Accommodation and Facilities

Welcoming and well maintained!
The twin, double or family rooms are simple but have everything you need, including
some with ensuites and air conditioning. The accommodation building has a full
kitchen and BBQ area if you want to cook your own dinner and there is a washing
machine. The use of canoes on the river is included in the price.
Campers have two campgrounds to choose from. The Homestead Camp has all the
usual facilities, including some powered sites. Miners Pool is a bush camping site
5 km further down the road on the banks of the Drysdale River (pit toilets). Access to
the river is easy and day visitors are free to stop by for a picnic and swim
(No advance booking of campsites.)
If you don't want to drive any further you can take a scenic flight over the Mitchell
Falls and the surrounding region from Drysdale.
www.drysdaleriver.com.au/scenic_flights.htm
If you do want to drive but have a trailer or van that you don't want to take you can
leave it here. (And that's a free service!)
Drysdale River Station, 9161 4326, www.drysdaleriver.com.au
Accommodation prices start from $150 per room. Evening meals should be booked ahead.
Camping is $15 pp, children $5, under five years free. Bushcamping $10/children free. No
advance bookings.
Eftpos facilities available, credit cards are accepted. Check out their website. It's friendly,
very useful and has good information. Just like the real thing!
Here are a couple of quotes that I like (from their history page):
The story goes that when the current homestead was built in 1967, the trucks arrived
with building materials which were unloaded at the chosen position at the top of the
river bank. Thankfully someone happened to look up and notice flood debris a very long
way up, in the tree tops. The homestead was then positioned 1.5 km back from the river.
In the floods of 1986 and 1997 the river level rose to within 200 m of the house and 5
meters of the staff quarters. All I can say is I am glad they did not build it on the first
choice!
We purchased the lease in the wet of 85 / 86. With 3 4WD vehicles and a truck we set
off from Derby only to be caught in the floods from cyclone Hector and have to do a
dash back to town. We barely made it, crossing the last river when it was 2 feet over the
bridge. After waiting two weeks for the floods to drop we tried again, it took one day to
do the first 300 km and 4 more to do the next 180 km. At one point we were stuck
between two rivers and one of our children suddenly became very ill, not an experience
I would like to repeat. Luckily she got better, the river dropped and we finally arrived.
At that time there was no telephone service to the area at all, the only means of
communication was by the Royal Flying Doctor radio service.
This experience taught me the futility (and looking back stupidity) of attempting to
travel these roads when very wet. I now have the greatest admiration for early settlers to
the area. Back then, even in a time of dire need it was just not possible to radio or phone
for help. Now, we are pretty spoilt in the knowledge that even if a plane can't get to you,
then a helicopter probably can.
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Once you leave Drysdale you cross the Drysdale River and then it's another nearly
100 kilometres to the turn-off for the Mitchell Plateau Track, or 200 km to
Kalumburu.
45 km north of Drysdale Station is the Marunbadidi Safari Camp, one of the chain of
luxury tented camps that APT Kimberley Wilderness Adventures, part of the mega
corporation APT, operates across the Kimberley. For more information see
www.kimberleywilderness.com.au and the camping info for the Bungles in Part III.
MITCHELL PLATEAU (MITCHELL FALLS)

The Mitchell Plateau (Ngauwudu by its Aboriginal name) is one of the first places I
mention whenever people ask me what they should see in the Kimberley.
It may be a bit difficult to get to, but it is such a unique and amazing area, it's worth
the effort.
The much photographed Mitchell Falls (Punaami Unpuu) are of course spectacular.
But don't restrict yourself to a quick scenic flight and photo stop. Because you would
miss Little Mertens Falls, the natural spa pools above it and the cave and rock art
underneath it. You wouldn't be able to swim at Mertens Creek beneath a huge gallery
of the elegant Bradshaw rock paintings. And you would miss out on the walk across
the Mitchell Plateau to the Mitchell Falls, a fantastic full day return hike (can be done
faster), through an ever changing but always grand landscape. Clear streams and
pools, shady pockets of rainforest, majestic cliffs and waterfalls, imposing views... An
experience you'll never forget.
The Mitchell River National Park
The 115,300 hectare park hasn't been a national park for all that long. Between 1965 and
1985 mining was the main activity in the area and there were many exploration,
evaluation and processing camps, trying to figure out how lucrative the bauxite deposits
here might be.
Thank god mining turned out to be not viable at all, but the decision to manage the area
for recreation and conservation purposes wasn't made until 1998. In 2000 the Mitchell
Plateau was finally made a national park. Phew.
Important update: mining is back on the books and the Mitchell Plateau is facing the
very real threat of total destruction. For more information see the end of the chapter
Ecological Threats in Part I.
The Mitchell Plateau is of immense cultural and biological significance. The area is rich
in the well known Wandjina and Bradshaw art. The quality of the art sites here is
amazing.
The area is very important culturally and spiritually to the Wunambal people who have
lived here for thousands of years. Their name for the Mitchell Plateau area is
Ngauwuduu and the Mitchell Falls are called Punamii-unpuu. While visitors are
welcome you are also asked to show respect, approach the area quietly and to stop for a
moment to think about where you are.
(Information material about the Wunambal and their relation to this country is available
at the campground.)
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The biological significance of the Mitchell River National Park is due to the variety of
unique habitats these highlands provide and the resulting rich diversity of flora and
wildlife. The landscapes around the plateau feature mangroves and swamps, the margins
are protected from fire and have allowed small patches of rainforest to grow. There are
woodlands, escarpments and deep gorges, pandanus lined creeks and lily ponds...
But the most conspicuous feature are the Livistona palms. Those fan palms can be found
throughout the Kimberley along streams and waterfalls, but here on the Mitchell Plateau
they totally dominate the landscape. You will be driving through large forests of them
on your way up here. The palms can grow up to 18 metres tall and some of these trees
are thought to be up to 300 years old!
(Again, the information materials and leaflets at the campsite are really excellent and
have a lot of information and comprehensive species lists.)
Getting There
The Mitchell Plateau Track is not a gazetted road and not regularly maintained.
(Hence it's called a track). Sometimes it's in decent condition, sometimes it's plain
atrocious. Especially after the wet season there can be bad holes and wash outs, so
take great care. If you are in a hire vehicle keep in mind that you may not have
insurance cover on this road.
Off road trailers are ok, but anything else you are towing is best be left at Drysdale
River Station. (They offer a free care taking service). Many people also leave their
trailers or off-road vans at the excellent King Edward River campsite at the start of the
Mitchell Plateau Track.
Some people do take even off-road caravans all the way up to the falls. It can be done,
it just doesn't do the van or the track much good. (And it is certain to aggravate those
who get stuck driving behind such a rig.)
The turn off to the Mitchell Plateau Track is 162 km from the Gibb River Road, along
the Kalumburu Road. From here it is another 85 km to the Mitchell Falls camping
area and you should allow at least two hours for that last part. (Three hours and even
more just after the wet season or any time the track is in bad condition.)
Only a few kilometres after the turn-off you will come across the biggest obstacle of
an early season trip: the King Edward River crossing. The Mitchell Plateau Track is
one of the last roads in the Kimberley to be reopened after the wet season (many
weeks after the Gibb River Road opens!).
Even once the Mitchell Plateau Track is open the King Edward River may still be too
deep for some vehicles to cross. Make sure you know how deep the water is and how
much your vehicle can handle. (Call in at Drysdale River Station to get the latest
updates about the water level and road condition or ring the rangers on the plateau.)
Early in the season it's also a good idea to walk the crossing first. It's deeper than it
looks and there maybe holes and submerged boulders. Don't worry, there are no
crocodiles here. But be careful as the rocks are slippery and the current still strong.
Once the water level has dropped the crossing should not present any problems. By
June you should be fine.
(By the way, the cover photo of this book shows a hired campervan crossing the King
Edward River, two weeks after the road was opened in May 2006.)
Update: last season the shire dumped a lot of rock into the dug out riverbed,
apparently it is now a lot shallower. I have not seen it since, I also don't know what
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material was used and how it will hold up over the wet. But it could be that the
crossing is a lot easier than what I just described.
You are now on Wunambal land, the land of the traditional owners of the area.
King Edward River Campsites - Munura
There are several inofficial small clearings and sites along the river, before and after the
crossing, that are suitable for bush campers.
About 3 km after the river crossing you find the official and very popular King Edward
River campsites on your right (now renamed Munurru). There are two main
campgrounds. One site is now called Wulumara and the other Warninmarri.
Those are basic bush campsites along the river and the only facilities here are bush
toilets. Fires are allowed. The river has large permanent pools and small waterfalls,
offers good fishing and is safe for swimming. If you have the time and inclination go for
a hike downstream. It takes about three hours to get to a fairly big set of falls and it is an
interesting and varied walk.
These campsites used to be very spacious and free. But the pressure from more and
more people stopping over lead to the DPaW upgrading the facilities, setting aside an
area for tour buses (which reduces the area available for everyone else), installing a care
taker who looks after things during the main season and now charging a fee of $7.50pp.
Aboriginal Art Sites

Near the King Edward River crossing and campsites are two sites featuring exceptional
Aboriginal art. One is along a track to your left, 200m after the river crossing. The
other sites can be found along a track to your right, 6.3 km from the river crossing.
The first site is a large area of sandstone boulders. The Wandjinas that you see featured
on so many Kimberley brochures can be found on a group of those boulders.
You can also find other art styles in this area: the intricate Bradshaw stick figures (the
more correct but less used name is Gwion-Gwion figures). The Bradshaws are so old
that there is no paint left, only the stains, which makes it somewhat difficult to date
them. They are estimated to be 17,000 years old.
There are also some even older paintings of plants and animals. They belong to an era
known as the Naturalistic Animal Period.
The smaller art sites on the track to the right hand side also feature both Wandjinas and
Bradshaws.
These are exceptionally precious art sites, among the best you can find in the Kimberley
and still inhabited by powerful spirits. Please treat them with great respect, keep an
adequate distance and obviously don't touch them!
It is wonderful that sites as precious as these are so freely accessible. But if that freedom
is abused and the sites damaged in any way, the traditional owners will totally close the
sites to the public.
By the way, if you stay at the campsites for a while you can also go for a bushwalk,
following the river downstream. They aren't easy to find and not right on the river
banks, but there are many more small art sites in this area.
Once you continue your drive you will soon notice the landscape change. You are
now climbing up onto the plateau, the air is cooler and the open scrubland gives way
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to a Livistona palm forest, a landscape so ancient you wouldn't be surprised to see

dinosaurs.
The road has some steep sections here as you climb through some big valleys (this is
where you are most likely to encounter bad wash outs) and every now and then you
get close enough to the edge of the plateau to enjoy some amazing views.
It's an awesome drive, but don't get too distracted by the views. The road requires
your attention. About 30 km into the plateau there is an area that is suitable for
stopping. Look for clear space to your right to pull over. The place is called Miyarli or
Lawley Valley Lookout.
When driving always be particularly careful if you encounter a good patch of road. It's
such a relief that you are tempted to make the most of it. Trust me, just behind the
next crest, where you can't see it until the last moment, is a big, gaping hole! (Also,
you never know what the other drivers on this road are tempted to do.)
Once you get closer to the Mitchell Falls area there are several track junctions.
First you pass the access track (or, for you, no access track) to the Kandiwal
community on your left. This is where the Ngauwudu people live, the traditional
owners of the Mitchell Falls area who have been here, looking after the country, for
tens of thousands of years. You may meet some of the members who work as tour
guides in the national park.
The turn off also leads to the upmarket Ungolan Safari Camp.
Ungolan Safari Camp is one of a chain of luxury tented camps that APT Kimberley
Wilderness Adventures (part of the mega corporation APT) operates across the
Kimberley. For more information see www.kimberleywilderness.com.au and the
camping information for the Bungles in Part III.
You'll also see the turn off to the airstrip to your right. It's all well sign posted.
Eventually, 71 km from the King Edward River crossing, you get to the equally well
sign posted turn off to the Mitchell Falls camping area to your left.
Important: you need to collect firewood before you get to the Mitchell Falls camping
area, but not just anywhere. There is a designated and well sign posted firewood
collection area outside the national park, just before you get to the camping area.
(Don't shoot me if it is somewhere else now. Every few years the firewood collection
area gets moved. But it is always well signposted, so stick to it please.)
Proceeding straight ahead at that last intersection would take you to Surveyors Pool.
The turn off is another 20 km beyond the Mitchell Falls intersection. If you want to
head out there, check with the rangers first about the state of the road. Access has
been improved, but it's still a very boggy track until late into the season.
From the car park it's a short walk to the main pool. There is no swimming in the
main pool, but you can sit in the creek and smaller pools further upstream or
downstream.
If you pass the Surveyor's pool turn off and continue straight ahead you will get to
Port Warrender. Maybe.
The first 15 minutes or so of that track are ok and take you to a good lookout over
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Port Warrender. If you have the time, the views are worth it. Getting down there is a
different story...
The last part to Port Warrender is a very challenging track, for experienced drivers
only. If you think you are up to it, allow at least one hour for those last 10 km. There
are some campsites down there and great fishing and lots of big saltwater crocodiles
and sandflies! (The crocs are easier to avoid than the sandflies.) Obviously no
swimming. Be very careful near the water.
Access to Crystal Creekalso along this trackhas been closed after the area was
handed back to the Aboriginal owners. (The Nagauwudu are considering establishig
tourist facilities there in the future, but for now the area remains closed to visitors.)
The Mitchell Falls Camping Area

This DPaW managed camping area on the Mitchell Plateau is huge. It is separated
into a generator and a quiet area. The sites are well spaced out and every site has a big
fireplace. There are toilets but no showers. Water is available from Mertens Creek.
A drinking water collection point is located upstream, complete with steps and a
bucket on a chain. Downstream, at the other end of the camping area, you can use the
creek for swimming and bathing. Obviously no soap, please.
DPaW Rangers are based up here between May and October (9161 4172). They can
help you with any questions you have.
Camping costs $7.50 pp, $2.20 for children.
Scenic Flights
The helicopter pad (and the booking office) is at the edge of the camping area, so you
have to put up with a bit of noise. You can arrange your flight when you get up here. I
said previously that you shouldn't restrict yourself to just a scenic flight. But you
could use the helicopter for one way. You can walk to the Mitchell Falls and spend
plenty of time exploring the Mitchell Plateau on the way. In the afternoon you can
meet your pilot atop the Mitchell Falls and enjoy the exhilarating flight back to camp.
Perfect.
Heliwork, Mitchell Falls Camp, 9161 4512 (Apr Nov)
Heliwork, Kununurra, 9166 9300 (Dec Mar), www.slingair.com.au
Taxi flight to the falls (6 min) $130 pp, longer coastal scenic flights also available.
The Hike to the Mitchell Falls

The whole return walk usually takes about 4 to 6 hours (not including any stops). It's
rough country and there are many sidetracks to explore on the way. If you just stick to
the main track without looking left and right you can get to the Mitchell Falls scenic
lookout in less than two hours. My description of the walk includes all the sidetracks
and continues to the bottom of the falls. My recommendation is to take your time and
make it a full day.
The walk starts at the Mitchell Falls campsite. It is well marked with arrows or red
dots on the rocks, rock cairns, and even some signs. At the beginning of the walk is a
stand with many leaflets with info about the diverse plant and animal life, even
species lists for the serious nature buff and bird lover. There is also info about the
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Aboriginal owners of the area and about the rock art that you will see on the way. And
last but not least there is a route description with trek notes.
Your hike begins with the crossing of the pretty Mertens Creek (thewhere you flop
into the water for a relaxing soak in the evening.) From here it's 15 minutes to get to
Little Mertens Falls. (It has now been renamed to Mertens Falls and the former Big
Mertens Falls is now called Mertens Gorge. We'll get there later.)
Little Mertens Falls isn't little at all! It drops quite a way, so be careful near the edge.
You can walk across the top to the other side. There are many rock ledges, pools and
rapids, shady spots to sit down and just listen to the water, natural spas to cool down
in... It's a great place to hang out for an hour or two. (Maybe on your walk back?)
However, the most intriguing feature of Mertens Falls can be found underneath. If you
stay on the right side of it and just follow the main track you will, soon after climbing
down a small rock face, see a path to your left. Follow it and it will take you to a cave
underneath the falls. On the cliff face you can find some ancient Bradshaw paintings.
Further inside the walls are covered with delicate rock ferns. The dripping moisture
has given the rocks are lovely pattern. And all the while the falls are thundering from
above. It's easy to see why this place was of spiritual significance to the creators of
the rock art.
Once you leave Mertens Falls behind and continue your way towards Mitchell Falls
the path leads you through a shady patch of rainforest. When it opens up again you
hear the creek to your left as there are more rapids. If you leave the path and climb
over the rock slabs down to the creek you find another irresistible swimming pool.
And if you look up you see another big rock slab covered in Bradshaws. On a hot day
I'd stop here for a swim on the way in and back. It's a lovely spot, so peaceful.
The next stop is the Big Mertens Falls, or Mertens Gorge as it's now called. Now
these falls are big, (though not as big as the Mitchell Falls). If you walk along the top
of the falls to the far right you get the best view of them. But be extremely careful
here, it's a looong way down. The gorge below is narrow and dramatic and impossible
to capture in a good photo (at least for me it is). Not much light enters the bottom, but
at the top of the falls the sun is blazing.
Make your way across the top of Mertens Gorge and continue on the other side. The
walk gets more difficult now: very rocky terrain, big boulders to climb over, clumps
of spiky spinifex, loose gravel...
The Mitchell Falls are just around the corner. You approach them from the top. The
first thing you see is an amazing view along the Mitchell River and you hear a
thundering noise. If you climb up on the big rock slabs on the right you stand right
above the top tier of the falls and for the first time you realise how big those falls
really are. Early in the season you can feel the spray drift and looking at the raging
forces below you is spell binding.
Tear yourself away, because the path continues on the other end. You cross the
Mitchell River not far from the top of the falls. Early in the season the crossing is an
adventure in itself. It's wide, it's deep, and the current is quite something...
On the other side you may get got lost a bit. Last time I went, there were no arrows or
rock cairns anywhere, but it doesn't really matter. Just make your way over the top of
the rocks and you can't miss the helipad. On the other side of the helicopter landing
area you will pick up some arrows again.
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From here the path is much better marked, because all the non bush walkers that use
the helicopter to get here need to be able to find their way to the official photo
lookout. You may even have to stand in line a bit to take your photos. The lookout is
not big. (Take care and don't slip of the edge!)
But there is more to come yet. Before you get to the photo lookout there is a path
branching off to your left. If you have some energy left follow it.
It takes you to the bottom of the falls. It's not easy to get down there. Well, it is easier
later in the season, but early in the season you have to fight your way through a wet
season's worth of growth. And in our climate that is a lot of growth!
Thank god there are many rock cairns. It is easy to find the way and it's not that far
either because it goes straight down. (Another way of saying it's rather steep...) Once
you reach the bottom just follow the river upstream until you get to the bottom of the
Mitchell Falls.
If you are tempted to go for a swim here I have to disappoint you. This a sacred place,
inhabited by powerful serpents (no, not seas snakes, the creative serpents of the
dreamtime) Swimming is not allowed. Please treat the area with respect. It's also
saltwater crocodile country and I wouldn't take any chances with those.
Anywhere above the Mitchell Falls is safe for swimming, and the big pool just above
the crossing is perfect. You may even want to follow it further upstream to get to
more rapids if you have the time.
It took us about three hours to reach the bottom of the falls, but we didn't stop for any
swims on the way. We sure did on the way back, though! The return trip was done at
a more leisurely pace, since now we knew we had all the time we needed. If you feel
the whole return trip would be a bit much you can always walk just one way and use
the helicopter for the way back.
Just don't restrict yourself to only the helicopter flight and the photo lookout. That
would be a crime.
KALUMBURU
The Aboriginal community Kalumburu is located on the northern coast, not far from
the mouth of the King Edward River, near King Edward River Gorge. It is the most
northerly point in Western Australia that is accessible by road (well, kind of
accessible).
The former Catholic mission is home to about 400 people of mostly the Wunambal,
Walmbi and Kwini language groups who administer the community themselves.
Its one of the most welcoming Aboriginal communities in the Kimberley. Few
overseas or interstate travellers and adventurers make the long way, but the place is
quite popular with our local fishermen.
Kalumburu has a rich history to explore, tours in the region can be arranged and there
is great camping and fishing on the beaches in the area.
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History
The Kalumburu Catholic Mission was first established in 1908 under the name Drysdale
River Mission, some 20 km north east of its present site, by Fathers of the New Norcia
Benedictine Monastery who arrived by boat.
In the early days the mission endured several attacks by Aborigines who speared the
Fathers, but gradually the aggressions subsided. In 1922 the Fathers explorations led
them up the King Edward River where they camped at a marvellous pool
Kalumburu and in 1927 preparations began to move the mission from Pago (where
the wells were failing).
Searches for the Southern Cross (gone missing in 1929) were conducted from
Kalumburu and the German aviators Bertram and Klausmann of the Atlantis, who went
missing in 1932, were also found by four Kalumburu mission boys.
Kalumburu became a mission station the same year and by 1936 the last people had
moved from Pago. Even the church moved, it was simply dismantled and rebuilt. But
not until 1951 was the original name Drysdale River Mission replaced with
Kalumburu.
During WWII the air force utilised the Kalumburu airfield, which became a major
staging post, with the result that the mission was bombed by the Japanese on September
27, 1943. One of the Fathers, a woman and four children were killed. Much of the
mission was destroyed and the monks moved out and pitched their tents a few km away.
They returned in May 1945 to begin reconstruction.
In June 1945 the military moved out of Kalumburu and used Truscott during the final
stages of the war. Remains of an airplane that crashed at Truscott in May 45 and
leftovers from old trucks, buildings etc. can still be visited today.
After 1950 the mission started to experiment with different crops and animals, cattle
being the most successful.
The first route from Gibb River Station to Kalumburu was surveyed and graded in 1954
and was the basis for todays road. The first qualified school teacher arrived in 1962 to
take over from the mission Sisters and the school saw a large upgrade in 2004. The
police station was added in 2005.
Today the community is run by the people themselves. The main economic operations
are cattle and tourism. The Catholic church still owns the church grounds, runs the
school and operates the campground and store.
Permits and Regulations

You need two permits to access Kalumburu community.
The entry permit from the Aboriginal Land Trust needs to be organized in advance.
Its free and should only take a day or two to process online:
www.daa.wa.gov.au/en/Entry-Permits/
You can also ring the permits officer: 9235 8000 or 1300 651 077
You also need a Kalumburu Recreation Entry Permit which costs $35 per vehicle and
is valid for 7 days. You can try to prearrange the permit with the Derby or Kununurra
Visitor Centre, but they may just tell you to buy it at the office, store or mission when
you arrive in Kalumburu.
No alcohol is allowed on the reserve. You are not allowed to leave the roads. Only
use provided tracks and only camp at the authorised camping areas. Please dont take
photos or video within the community without prior permission.
205
Getting There
678 km from Derby

263 from the Kalumburu Road turn off on the Gibb River Road
204 km from Drysdale River Station
188 km from the Mitchell Falls campground
The road is rough and can be very rough early in the season. You also need to cross a
couple of creeks (the McDonald Creek, 3 km after the Mitchell Falls turn off, likely
being the deepest) and the Carson River. If you are towing a van you can leave that at
Drysdale.
Theda Station is located 34 km north of the Mitchell Falls turn off. The station is
closed to tourists.
Bush camping is possible at several creek and river crossings along the way, but
beware of crocs, especially at the Carson River.
20 km before you reach Kalumburu itself there is a turn off to Carson River Station
and Drysdale National Park. That access road has also been closed to the public.
When you enter Kalumburu community you find the mission on the left and the store
and office to your right.
Things to See and Do

Fishing is the main attraction for most people. You can launch a boat off the ramp at
Marra Garra beach (or anywhere off the beaches at the camp grounds), arrange fishing
charters, or make your way down to the King Edward River. Fishing tours start from
as little as $50 for half a day, but you do need to supply all your own gear, including
bait! By the way, the locals use 200 lb line, so take something decent and take enough
of it.
You can arrange other tours in the area, for example to view some nearby Bradshaw
art. The mission museum is also well worth a visit. ( Access $10, guided tours usually
Mon/Wed/Sat at 10am, self guided tours possible on Tue/Thu/Fri, 8.30am 10.30am.)
Another half day tour on the Anjo peninsula takes in the Truscott airfield as well as
some Wandjina and Bradshaw art.
Nothing is set in stone, so you best contact the Mission (9161 4333) and the
Kalumburu office (9161 4300) just before or when you get here.
Accommodation and Facilities

The mission campground is a lovely grassy area, quite pretty with the old coconut
palms and mango trees surrounding the mission. The mission also offers air
conditioned self-contained motel units.
Kalumburu Mission, 9161 4333, www.kalumburumission.org.au/main/accommodation.html
Camping $20 pp, $45 per family, $12 extra for power, single room $125, twin share $145. No
mobile phone reception at community.
206
The other campgrounds are at McGowan Island, Honeymoon Bay and Pago. Facilities
are basic, especially at Pago. In the past you booked those at the Kalumburu office
(Ph: 9161 4300). These days you just go to your chosen campground and organise the
details with the owners. (Please let me know if that changes again.)
McGowan Island: (Maraltadj family: 9161 4386) In the past not the best campground
and hardly any shade but has received rave reviews since the 2008 and 2009 seasons.
This seems to be the current no. 1 pick with travellers. The real attraction though is in
the water. You can arrange fishing charters from here or try your luck from the nearby
rocks.
Honeymoon Bay: (French family: 9161 4378) Reasonable facilities about half an hour
from Kalumburu, in a pleasant setting. You can camp on the hill overlooking the
beach, or on the beach proper. You can also arrange a variety of tours from here. This
used to be the most popular camp site. There have been some complaints in 2008 and
in 2009 (overall neglected site, rubbish everywhere...) but I received just as many
notes saying those complaints are not justified. There have been neither complaints
nor positive mentions in 2010 and 2011 and it's been quiet ever since. Guess you'll
have to check it yourself!
Note: the sandflies may also eat you.
Pago: (Wain family: 9161 4394) 27 km from Kalumburu, near the old Pago Mission.
Basic facilities but you can launch a boat from here.
Other facilities at Kalumburu include diesel and unleaded fuel, a garage, a general
store and a Takeaway where you can also dine in or buy ice and general fishing
supplies.
Eftpos is available and major credit cards accepted. There is no mobile phone
reception.
207
SERVICES ALONG THE ROUTES

All the information that follows is also in the longer descriptions above. This is just a
summary to make it easier to find those important facts, like, where can you top up
your tank.
(A separate summary for accommodation and camping options is below.)
Distances between Services:
Derby Imintji Store (now closed): 227 km

Imintji Store (now closed) Mt Barnett Roadhouse: 78 km
Mt Barnett Roadhouse Drysdale River Station: 169 km
Drysdale River Station Kalumburu: 204 km
Drysdale River Station Kalumburu via Mitchell Plateau: 374 km
Drysdale River Station Mitchell Plateau return: 374 km
Mt Barnett Roadhouse El Questro Township: 345 km
Drysdale River Station El Questro Township: 294 km
Mt Barnett Roadhouse Kununurra or Wyndham: 415 or 410 km
Drysdale River Station Kununurra or Wyndham: 364 or 359 km
El Questro Township Kununurra or Wyndham: 102 or 97 km
For detours off the Gibb (return distances):
Tunnel Creek/Windjana Gorge: add 110 km

Mt Hart Station homestead: add 98 km, allow extra for exploring
Bell Gorge: add 58 km
Lennard Gorge: add 15 km
Mornington Wilderness Camp: add 164 km, allow extra to see gorges
Charnley River Station homestead: add 84 km, allow extra for exploring
Adcock Gorge: add 10 km
Barnett River Gorge: add 6 km
Mt. Elizabeth Station homestead: add 58 km, allow extra for exploring
Ellenbrae Station: add 10 km
208
Details of Services
Location A / B (C): Available services
A: Distance of initial turn off from Derby.
B: Distance of initial turn off from Kununurra (its 5 km less from Wyndham).
C: Additional driving distance on side road.
All places have EFTPOS facilities. (Except for the rubbish disposal cage, duh.)
Windjana Road 123/536 (50 metres): Rubbish disposal.
Imintji Store 227/432 (0): Cheapest diesel, ice, drinking water, groceries, take
away food. This store closed its doors in April 2015!!
Mornington Wilderness Camp 252/ 407 (90): No fuel but can do basic tyre and
mechanical repairs, drinking water, meals.
Over the Range Tyre & Mechanical Repairs 276/483: Tyre repairs and
replacements, minor mechanical and welding repairs, mobile service. No towing.
Mt Barnett Roadhouse 305/354 (0): Diesel, unleaded, oils, tyre repairs, huge ice
blocks (and smaller ones), drinking water, groceries, take away food, rubbish
disposal, showers & laundry.
Drysdale River Station 415/244 (60; 186 to Mitchell Pl.): Diesel, unleaded, tyre
and mechanical repairs, stocks tyres and some spares, ice, drinking water, groceries,
meals. Update: there was no mechanic at Drysdale in the 2013 season!
Kalumburu 415/244 (263; 188 from Mitchell Pl.): Diesel, unleaded, tyre and
mechanical repairs, ice, drinking water, groceries, meals, public internet.
Home Valley Station 593/66 (2): No fuel, does tyre and mechanical repairs, ice,
drinking water, groceries, meals.
El Questro 626/33 (16): Diesel, unleaded, bottle gas refills, tyre and mechanical
repairs, ice, drinking water, groceries, meals.
Accommodation and Camping

Location A / B (C): Available accommodation, contact details
A: Distance of initial turn off from Derby.
B: Distance of initial turn off from Kununurra (its 5 km less from Wyndham).
C: Additional driving distance on side road.
Birdwood Downs 16/643 (1): Savannah Huts with shared bathroom facilities,
choice between dinner, b&b or only accommodation, camping.
Ph: 9191 1275, www.birdwooddowns.com
Windjana Gorge 123/536 (20): DPaW campground with basic facilities.

Mt Hart Wilderness Lodge 189/470 (50): Accommodation with full board,
restaurant and licensed bar.
Ph: 9191 4645, www.mthart.com.au
209
Bell Gorge/Silent Grove 219/440 (19): DPaW campground with basic facilities.
Imintj Store 227/432 (0): If necessary you could camp here.
Ph: 9191 7471
Mornington Wilderness Camp 252/407 (90): Safari style luxury tents with ensuite
or normal campground, restaurant and licensed bar.
Ph: 9191 7046, http://www.australianwildlife.org/...
Charnley River Station 256/403 (42): Accommodation is self contained or with

meals, camping.
Ph: 9191 4646
Manning Gorge 305/354 (7): Campground with basic facilities.

Ph: 9191 7007
Barnett River Gorges 334/325 (3): No more camping here!!

Mt Elizabeth Station 344/315 (29): Homestead accommodation with dinner
(BYO), b&b, camping.
Ph: 9191 4644, www.mountelizabethstation.com
Drysdale River Station 415/244 (60): Self contained rooms, campground with
facilities or bush camping, restaurant and licensed bar.
Ph: 9161 4326, www.drysdaleriver.com.au
King Edward River 415/244 (168): Basic bush campground.

Mitchell Falls Campground 415/244 (246): DPaW managed campground.
Kalumburu 415/244 (263): Self contained motel units and camping, takeaway and
meals, no alcohol.
Ellenbrae Station 485/174 (5): basic eco-bungalows, camping and meals.
Home Valley Station 593/66 (2): Range of accommodation, camping and bush
camping, restaurant and licensed bar.
Ph: 9161 4322, www.homevalley.com.au
Diggers Rest via old Karunjie Road 602/57 (50): Air conditioned bunk house,
bush huts or camping. Home cooked meals.
Ph: 9161 1029, www.diggersreststation.com.au
El Questro Station Township 626/33 (16): Bungalows, camping and bush

camping, restaurant and licensed bar.
Ph: 9169 1777 (booking office) or 08 9161 4318 (station office), www.elquestro.com.au
Emma Gorge Resort 636/23 (2): Tented cabins with private bathroom or shared
facilities, restaurant and licensed bar. No camping.
Ph: 08 9169 1777, www.elquestro.com.au/emma-gorge-resort/
210
Appendix:
USEFUL CONTACTS
Road Conditions
Main Roads Department 1800 013 314, 138 138, www.mainroads.wa.gov.au
Kimberley Road Report www.mainroads.wa.gov.au/...
www.exploroz.com/WA/Kimberley/Roads.aspx
Regional Main Roads Departments
Derby 9158 4333 or 9158 4321
Kununurra 9168 4777
Shire Offices
Shire of Broome 9191 3456
Shire of Derby/West Kimberley 9191 0999
Shire of Halls Creek 9168 6007
Shire of Wyndham-East Kimberley 9168 4100
Police
Broome 9194 0200
Derby 9191 1444
Fitzroy Crossing 9163 9555
Halls Creek 9168 9777
Kununurra 9166 4530
Wyndham 9161 0400
Kalumburu 9161 4777
Weather
Forecasts and Warnings http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/wa/forecasts.shtml
Radar Images http://www.bom.gov.au/weather/radar/
WA Regional Office 9263 2222
Broome Meteorological Office 9192 1211
Roadhouses on the Gibb River Road

Imintji Store 9191 7471
Mt Barnett Roadhouse 9191 7007
Drysdale River Station 9161 4326
Kalumburu Mission Garage 9161 4333
El Questro Township 9161 4318
211
National Parks
DPaW Offices (Department of Parks and Wildlife, formerly DEC, Department or
Environment and Conservation, formerly CALM, Department of Conservation and
Land Management. Anyone want to guess what the next name will be?)
Online information about park, trail and road closures:
www.dpaw.wa.gov.au/parks/alerts-and-updates/parks-trails-and-road-closures
You can also download the DPaW Alerts app from iTunes or the Google Play store.
Kimberley Regional Office, Kununurra 9168 4200
West Kimberley District Office, Broome 9195 5500,
East Kimberley District Office, Kununurra 9168 4200
Derby 9193 1411
Fitzroy Crossing 9191 5121
Geikie Gorge National Park 9191 5112
Windjana Gorge & Tunnel Creek National Parks 9191 7076
King Leopold Ranges Conservation Park 9191 7058
Mitchell Plateau National Park 9161 4172 (May Sep)
Purnululu National Park 9168 7300 (April Dec)
212

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January 2008 May 2015, Birgit Bradtke, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Share Your Experiences

Spread The Word

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Destination Kimberley - www.KimberleyAustralia.com

A note about the structure of this guide:

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HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

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GLOSSARY AUSSIE SLANG

And now, lets finally get to the book

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Part I: Introduction and Overview

Part I: Introduction and Overview

A Quick Round Trip

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Part I: Introduction and Overview

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Charting the Coast

Part I: Introduction and Overview

Opening up the North

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Civilization struggles to get a foothold

Part I: Introduction and Overview

he complex geology of the Kimberley is the result of a turbulent history.

Destination Kimberley - www.KimberleyAustralia.com

Part I: Introduction and Overview

Reptiles and Amphibians

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Part I: Introduction and Overview

Destination Kimberley - www.KimberleyAustralia.com

upposedly the Kimberley is pristine, untouched, the worlds largest true

Part I: Introduction and Overview

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Part I: Introduction and Overview

Destination Kimberley - www.KimberleyAustralia.com

he Kimberley is located north of the Tropic of Capricorn. Our tropical

The Monsoon Climate

Part II: General Travel Information

Part II: General Travel Information

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From Alice Springs:

Part II: General Travel Information

cooked and tinned food,

For more details see www.agric.wa.gov.au/quarantine/quarantine-wa or call 9334 1800.

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Agricultural Quarantine: What exactly is it? Why is it in place?

Part II: General Travel Information

THE BEST TIME TO VISIT

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Part II: General Travel Information

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December to March: the Wet Season

Part II: General Travel Information

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Average Temperatures in the Kimberley

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Part II: General Travel Information

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Part II: General Travel Information Getting Around/Driving

Caravans and Camper Trailers