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Bungee-jumping from the Victoria Falls

Bridge. Opposite: A thumbs up from Jabu.

By Jabulile Ngwenya

ADVENTURE
IN THE HEART
OF AFRICA

Zambias soul surges with adrenaline. Whether youre in the city of

Livingstone or out in the bush at Mfuwe, your heart wont be still
00 Sawubona October 2015

f Id looked away for a few

seconds, I would have missed
the baboon, but I have my eye
on him as he casually walks to
the open window of the SUV.
He pops his head in, does a
quick surveillance of the interior
and then inserts his entire
body to exit with a plastic bag, obviously
containing food.
What the!? I shout, my words
drowned by the louder yells of the vehicles
occupants as they get out, watching the
primate disappear into the sparse, dry bush.
Jabu, perhaps its better if Dennis
carries your handbag, says Brinsley, the
General Manager of Stanley Safari Lodge,
where I stayed last night. Id unthinkingly
pushed my handbag down into the depths
of the open-game drive vehicle, but weve
come to our last stop, the Livingstone
border-post. From here, theres a brisk
walk to the Victoria Falls Railway Bridge,
where Ill be doing my very first bungeejump. Its a lovely, warm day with clear
blue skies and, as usual, the borders busy,
but Dennis the Assistant GM of the
lodge navigates our way through easily.
Are you nervous? he asks me.
No, not at all, I reply, as we walk
past heavy, stationary trucks and traders
travelling between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
I did bungee-jumping a few years ago
at the same place were going to now, says
Dennis. I remember showing my family
the video. They all cried and insisted that I
never do it again. I must say, I enjoyed it.
How was your day? asks Jinella, the
Guest Relations Host, as she rushes to
greet me a few hours later after Babylony,
the ever-patient driver, has dropped me at
Stanley Safari Lodge.
Absolutely wonderful, I reply, walking
with her to the cool area around the pool
in the late-afternoon sun. How was
yours? Smiling, as usual, she says it was
fine, but I soon learn thats the customary
response of Zambians.
As I await a late lunch, I order
a gin and tonic and mentally
October 2015 Sawubona 00

zambia

relive my experience
Whats your name? each crew member asked me as they put on
the harness and safety straps. I looked down the bridge a few times
to the swirling water, which was running low. Only when theyd
walked me to the edge and begun a count-down had I realised the
enormity of what I was about to do, but I wasnt about to turn back,
and suddenly I was flying. It was the most delicious feeling of freedom
Id ever experienced and all I could do was laugh out loud. Afterwards,
as Dennis and I walked to the Victoria Falls (or Mosi-oa-Tunya, the
smoke that thunders, as the locals call it), I almost wanted to nudge
him back for another bungee-jump off the bridge.
It was then that I spotted him, a fisherman on the edge of the
falls leading to Livingstone Island, a beautiful silhouette against
the backdrop of the sun.
Dennis, whats that man doing? I asked astonished. Wont he fall
over? Its too dangerous. Aghast, I watched the lone man wading the
waters across the gorge between us.
Hes mad! snorted a tourist nearby, ignoring the rain
falling over us.
No, hes fishing. Because the waters low, hes able to walk over the
rocks. In fact, tourists sometimes do it too when they need to get to
Livingstone Island, said Dennis to the small crowd whod gathered to
watch the moving silhouette
Enjoy your lunch, Jinella says, breaking my reverie. I dig into
delicious fishcakes and salad, followed by a dessert of warm pineapples
with herbs. I missed breakfast this morning, which hadnt pleased
Jinella. Id only asked for tea. And biscuits, definitely! shed added.
I rush to freshen up before heading to my next activity an

Clockwise, from this image: A late-afternoon game drive

in the South Luangwa National Park. Relaxing at Nsolo Bush
Camp. Spending time with rescued elephants.

elephant-back safari. A word about my room, Victoria. When I

first entered it, Id admired the exquisite view of Victoria Falls and
Zambezi River in the distance.
After having been shown the exquisite outside bath, Id asked
my host how to close the curtains. You dont you have an open
room, hed replied.
This is it? Id asked, incredulously. Three walls?
Yes, hed laughed.
So every evening, as I prepare for dinner, I have a beautiful sunset
as my partner a large red ball over the horizon painting the sky in
colours Monet would have envied and then slowly sinking into the
thicket of foliage. Later, while getting ready for bed, I have natural
sounds to relax me, with the lights of the Victoria Falls town to my left
and Livingstone to my right. And every dawn, Im awakened by the
roaring of lions. On one occasion, I almost flee when I hear an animal
I cant identify padding up to my room. Then, to my relief, I hear a
gentle miaow and realise its not one of the big cats.
Lack of sleep doesnt bode well for my white-water rafting the next
morning. I dress inappropriately and the weather isnt particularly
warm either. Chongo, our guide, is very particular about safety and
although our boat capsizes twice, Im warmed by our team spirit and
charmed by Tony and his son from California, USA, and another
father with his daughter and son from St Petersburg, Russia, who
insist on river-boarding through the rapids. I get adventure envy
despite the freezing water. Why didnt I do that too?

SOUTH LUANGWA

My body feels battered and bruised as I lie awake at dawn, nestled

snuggly in bed, listening to the chirping of the birds. The lions have
long stopped roaring. Livingstone is known to be the tourist capital
of Zambia and after three days, Ive only had a taste of all there

zambia

I PREPARE FOR DINNER IN THE LIGHT OF

A BEAUTIFUL SUNSET A LARGE
RED BALL OVER THE HORIZON PAINTING
THE SKY IN COLOURS MONET WOULD
HAVE ENVIED.

Having dinner at
Kakuli Bush Camp.
Opposite: A sunset
cruise along the
Zambezi River.

is to do here. The sunset cruise on the Zambezi was very relaxing and
charming and its difficult to say goodbye to everyone at the lodge.
Later, in the early evening, Friday from Norman Carr Safaris awaits
my arrival at Mfuwe Airport. Hes transferring a couple from Puerto
Rico and me. I hope its a short drive, but Miguel and Theresa are going
to Kapani, which is 40 minutes away. Nsolo Bush Camp, where Ill be
spending tonight, is another two-hour drive, Im told.

NSOLO BUSH CAMP

The drive takes 90 minutes, disputes Prince, the guide, escorting

me. All guests entering the South Luangwa National Park must be
accompanied by a guide and a scout carrying a rifle. The suns set
and its extremely chilly. Prince is battling with a cold and were both
sneezing, but my spirits lift instantly when we see a leopard walking
casually along the main road.
Youre very lucky, says Prince, stopping the vehicle so we can
get a better view of the elusive cat. Ive never seen one on this
main road before. The animal walks into the bush, but we continue
watching it. As if sensing this, it stops and turns to look at us briefly,
before disappearing.
As we drive on, Im reminded of what a wise woman told me before
I arrived in Zambia: If the first animal you see in the bush is a leopard,
your journey will be successful. I smile, looking at the starry sky.
Welcome! everyone shouts as I get out of the vehicle. Its
already almost 8pm, but Im astounded to note that the other
guests here, the Spence family from the USA, have delayed having
dinner until my arrival.
Lit by the stars and lamps, Nsolo Bush Camp overlooking the Luwi
River is romantic. My chalet, with its reed and grass walls, is beautiful,
with a private verandah and everything I need, including an open-air
bathroom. Dinner is a delightfully cosy meal. The Spences will be
having a sleep-out on the riverbed the next night.

KAKULI BUSH CAMP

The following day, the afternoon bush walk is punctuated by

sightings of animals. We walk behind Aubrey, our guide, who himself
follows the scout. Weve been walking for over an hour and have
spotted a few antelope, as well as a species Id never known about
the puku which is indigenous to Zambia, though there are a few
in Botswana and Malawi.
Suddenly, at the edge of the Luwi River, Aubrey urgently tells
us: Theres trouble. Get in the vehicle now! I scramble into it,
along with Ingrid, her husband and daughter from Finland. Our
scout has apparently glimpsed another leopard. Luckily, though, it
runs away as soon as it hears us.
Aubrey drives slowly around the area as we spot zebra, wildebeest,
elephants, lilac-breasted rollers, southern carmine bee-eaters and a
beautiful African harrier hawk. As dusk descends, we also catch sight of
a pair of Lilian lovebirds.
Over there! says the scout suddenly, pointing to the leopard
watching antelope in the distance. Before too long, we spot another
one not far away.
This makes for excited conversation at the dinner table.
In the morning, over breakfast with Carol, Kakulis Host Manager, we
compare notes about the noises we heard the night before.
I heard a loud bang, I say. My room is similar to the one I had
at Nsolo, but more spacious, with canvas walling and a closed, en
suite bathroom.
That was the honey badger, laughs Carol. He discovered we hadnt
left him anything outside the fridge, so he was trying to dig into the
dustbin for whatever he could find there. It happens every night.
I was hoping for an elephant, I say.
Im sure I heard an elephant outside my room, she says. You can
generally tell from the noises. Hippos and elephants make loud ones.
In the distance I see Friday carrying my bags to the vehicle. Its time
to head to my next stop.
October 2015 Sawubona 81

zambia

a complimentary foot massage to ward off bush walk woes and

a large patio on which I spend an hour or two, watching cheeky
vervet monkeys and the beautiful view of the river
before the afternoon game drive.
While the other guests choose to remain
in
the lodge and enjoy the luxury, Jonathan
SAA flies
and Clare, a British couple on honeymoon,
to
Livingsto
Eileen, a vivacious, fun-loving Texan
whose husband says she drags him all
seven day ne
s a week
over the world and I hit the bush tracks.
from OR
There we meet Alice, a leopardess on a
Tam
hunt, but we dont distract her for longer
Internatio bo
than a few minutes.
nal
Airport.
As we enjoy sundowners along the
riverbeds, watching the gorgeous African
sun hug the sky, I high-five Eileen.
Over dinner, I tell Yoliswa, Chinzombos Host
Manager, that my time in Zambia has indeed ended
perfectly. The loud baboons have welcomed me and the elusive
leopards are sending me off graciously. Everything else has been
sent by the gods.
Its Africas way.

Sundowners at
Chinzombo Lodge.

CHINZOMBO LODGE

Im surprised when we turn a corner and see a body of water

ahead of us, with a boat waiting.
I didnt realise we had to cross the Luangwa River to get to
the lodge, I say to Friday.
He laughs and says its always a lovely surprise for guests.
Throughout my visit, everyones told me that Chinzombo
is the ideal way to end my journey. Its six villas are luxurious,
offering wifi in every room, room service, a mini-bar, a spa,

LIVINGSTONE
There are a myriad
of activities to enjoy
in the tourist capital
of Zambia. The Day
Activity Centre within
Bushtracks Africa
is able to help you
plan an itinerary
for the duration of
your stay. Tel: +260
213321122.
Visit: www.
bushtracksafrica.com
Bungee-jumping
Tel: +260 978
571568. Visit: www.
victoriafallsbungee.com
Sunset river cruise
Livingstones
82 Sawubona October 2015

While in Lusaka

Best Western Plus Lusaka

Grand Hotel

This is ostensibly a family

hotel, but
having spent more than
a week in
the African bush, I saw it
as a hotel
for both business travellers
and adventureseekers. It offers a host of
amenities, including a bea
utiful
pool area where you can
unwind and enjoy sundow
ners, 92 wellappointed rooms (ranging
from standard to suites),
two restaurants on
site, a bar, conference roo
ms and complimentary air
port transfers.
Tel: +260211 239666. Vis
it: www.lusakagrand.com

Essential information

Adventure tel:
+260 213320
058. Visit: www.
livingstonesadventure.
com
White-water rafting
and elephantback safaris
Safari Par Excellence
tel: +260 213320
606. Visit: www.
safpar.com
Stanley Safari Lodge
This has 10 rooms,
including some closed
colonial suites for
families and a popular
open-room honeymoon
suite. A guest relations
host looks after all

guests throughout their

stay. Theres no set
menu, but guests are
given two choices for
each course at meal
times. Tables arent
stipulated either, so
you can sit wherever
you please, including
at the pool, where you
can cool your feet and
enjoy the view while
youre eating.
Rates: US$405 pp
per night for full
board. (Enquire
about SADC rates.)
Visit: www.
robinpopesafaris.net/
camps/stanley-safari-

lodge.php
SOUTH LUANGWA
Norman Carr Safaris
The camps I visited in
the South Luangwa
National Park arent
fenced. Youre
escorted to and from
them every day.
Nsolo and
Kakuli Camps
These are best known
for their walking
safaris. You can walk
from Nsolo to Kakuli
or vice versa, which
takes about three
hours, escorted by
a guide and scout.
The camps are

seasonal, due to
the rainy months.
Rates: US$695-800
pp per night, plus
park fees of US$70
pp per night.
Chinzombo Lodge
Rates: $900-1250
pp per night, plus
park fees of $40
pp per night.
(Enquire about
SADC rates.)
Tel: +260 216 246
025. Visit: www.
normancarrsafaris.com
Zambia is a malaria
and yellow fever
area, so take the
necessary precautions.