Breeds of Poultry

New Hampshire Red

They possess a deep, broad body, grow feathers very rapidly, are
prone to go broody and make good mothers. Most pin feathers are
a reddish buff in color and, therefore, do not detract from the
carcass appearance very much.
Wyandotte
Wyandottes are a good, medium-weight fowl for small family
flocks kept under rugged conditions. Their rose combs do not
freeze as easily as single combs and the hens make good mothers.
Their attractive "curvy" shape, generally good disposition and
many attractive color patterns (varieties) make them a good
choice for fanciers as well as farmers.
Rhode Island Red
Rhode Island Reds are a good choice for the small flock owner.
Relatively hardy, they are probably the best egg layers of the dual
purpose breeds. Reds handle marginal diets and poor housing
conditions better than other breeds and still continue to produce
eggs.
Leghorns
A small, spritely, noisy bird with great style, Leghorns like to
move about. They are good foragers and can often glean much of
their diet from ranging over fields and barnyards.

Brooding Systems
Natural Brooding - For small numbers, a broody hen can handle
14-15 chicks. Protection from predators and rain is important.
Chicks should get some commercial ration or other feed for the
first 3-4 weeks. Sour milk is good for young chicks. A little care
over the first 3-4 weeks will often double or triple the survival
rate.
Warm Room Brooding - In this system, the whole pen is held at a
temperature of 30-32BC both day and night. The temperature is
lowered about 1.5BC per week until the ambient temperature is
reached, but should not go below 21BC until 6 to 8 weeks and not
below 18BC until 10 to 15 weeks. Light should be over feed and
water.
Circle Brooding - In this system, brooding areas of the pen under
the heat reflector are heated to around 35BC by the use of
reflectors over some form of artificial heat, such as gas heaters.
Chicks are enclosed by cardboard chick guards, (not more than
400 chicks per circle) that allow them to move away from the heat
source, but keep them close to feed and water. Light should
attract chicks to the heat source. Temperature in the rest of the
pen can be allowed to drop to 20 or 15BC.

Preparation of Poultry House

PREPARE THE COOP:

Your chicken coop must be thoroughly cleaned and washed. The

entire area must be disinfected from floor to ceiling. Leave
yourself enough time for the area to dry before putting down fresh
bedding.

A thin layer of hydrated lime is advisable on dirt floors at this

time to maintain dryness. Ensure that all feeders, drinkers and
brooders have been washed and disinfected; and are all in proper
working order. Check for, and seal off, all draughts, windows,
doors, and do general building repairs, etc. Sealing off draughts
does not mean cutting off all ventilation. A dry hen house greatly
reduces the risk of coccidiosis. You may achieve this by good
ventilation and stirring of litter. Do not use creosote - based
products for disinfecting!
LITTER:

Cover the area with about 3-4 inches of bedding. Straw or

shavings make the most effective bedding. Never use unshredded
newspaper. This may cause severe leg problems for turkey poults
and broiler chicks. Do not use sawdust, the particles are so small
that the birds may eat it instead of their food. Unless for some
reason your litter gets extremely wet, avoid changing litter during

the growing period. It is better to add litter than to change it to

avoid disturbing mold that may have formed underneath.

HEAT:

Warm the area for AT LEAST 24 Hours before the arrival of your
chicks. This will ensure that your bedding is warm and dry and
allows you to accurately MEASURE THE TEMPERATURE
FURTHEST FROM THE HEAT SOURCE DURING THE
COLDEST PART OF THE NIGHT as well as during the day. Your
brooder area should be 85F for chickens or 95F-100F for
turkeys, bantams and pheasants, measured at the outer edge of
the area. This temperature may be reduced by 5F per week to a
low of 70F at night! An additional room heater may be necessary
to maintain the entire room temperature at 75F or better. This
will allow the red lights to do their work over the chicks. For
larger areas hang more than one thermometer. DO NOT GUESS
THE TEMPERATURE. What is comfortable for you, almost
certainly is not warm enough for your chicks! BE PRECISE! You
may find it helpful to use a 'Hi-Low' thermometer in your
brooding area, which will record the highest and lowest
temperatures reached, this will allow you to see how cold it is
getting around 2 to 6 am. Chilled birds (especially broilers and
turkeys) will not do well if chilling, most commonly affects their
hearts, legs and rate of growth.

Poultry Farming Systems

Poultry Farms
Locating and purchasing a suitable farm that fits your family's
needs is not necessarily a simple process. A farm has to be able to
produce a positive cash flow to supply enough income for your
individual family's financial situation.
Breeder Hen Farm
This poultry operation is primarily involved in hatching egg
production. Generally, a farm will receive pullets (young hens)
when the pullets are approximately 20 to 22 weeks old. These
hens will remain on the farm and in egg production for
approximately 43 to 46 continuous weeks, at the end of which,
they will be picked up and taken to slaughter.
Pullet Farm
This poultry operation produces young hens for the breeder hen
operation. A farm will receive baby female chickens. These
chickens are raised continuously for approximately 20 to 22
weeks, until then they are picked up and taken to a breeder hen
farm.
Broiler Farm
Broiler Farm is a farm that is involved in the production of poultry
for meat. Baby chickens are delivered to the farm at one day of age
and are generally kept from 5 to 9 weeks. After this time the
broilers are removed from the farm to harvest for meat.

Diseases of Poultry
Coccidiosis
Coccidiosis is characterized by diarrhea, weight loss and
sometimes death in chickens. Mild infections result in weight loss
and pigmentation loss. Severe infections cause bloody diarrhea
and could be fatal without treatment.
Coccidiosis Treatment
If coccidiosis strikes, treatment choices include amprolium or
sulfa drugs, which are administered in the chickens drinking
water.
Mycoplasmosis
The symptoms, which are slow to develop, resemble the
symptoms of a standard respiratory infection: Watery eyes, dirty
nostrils, coughing and sneezing.
Mycoplasmosis Treatment
Sick chickens benefit from lowered stress, reduced dust and clean
coops, as well as from proper nutrition and antibiotic treatment.

Rickets

Rickets is a nutritional problem in young chickens caused by an

imbalance or a lack of calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D3.
Rickets Treatment
Treatment requires changing the feed, supplementing the diet
with free-choice limestone or oyster shell, and providing three
times the recommended vitamin D3 requirement for two weeks.

Vitamin A- Deficiency
Vitamin A-deficient chickens develop a crusty material in the
nostrils and eyelids, progressing to the accumulation of a cheesy
material. In the initial stages, it mimics respiratory diseases.
Vitamin A Deficiency Treatment
Treatment consists of changing the chickens feed and of
supplementing feed with vitamin A at two to four times the
normal level for two weeks.