Fabric manufacturing steps

Introduction:

Fabric quality control is accountable for assessing the good quality with the cloth
and identifying whether or not the garments might be in a location to satisfy
buyer requirements. Usually quality check workings are based and according to
the approved sample by the customer. Quality check is done in order to meet the
requirements of the customer in the fabric. Quality control workings start as
soon as the fabric is in-house and cutting department issues an allocation to the
quality control department.
To ensure the fabric quality, circular machines as cut loop of cloth is cylindrical,
the need for profile control sites. the same time, weaving fabric inspection,
testing grams of quality, to ensure products meet design requirements.TCO has
a whole system for verifying and maintaining a desired level of quality control of
fabric quality inspection. We have a good system of fabric quality control: our
QC members inspect bulk fabrics in all processes. Our inspection is usually
100%. Means that all the rolls of fabric required in making of the garment are
checked. Someone will wonder how we can make it. The reason is that we try to
narrow our profit margins in order to maximize our customer profit.

Winding:
Winding is the process of transferring yarn or thread from one type of package
to another to facilitate subsequent processing. The re-handling of yarn is an
integral part of the fiber and textile industries. Not only must the package and
the yarn itself be suitable for processing on the next machine in the production
process, but also other factors such as packing cases, pressure due to winding
tension, etc., must be considered. Basically, there are two types of winding
machines: precision winders and drum winders. Precision widers, used primarily
for filament yarn, have a traverse driven by acam that is synchronized with the
spindle and produce packages with a diamond-patterned wind. Drum winders
are used principally for spun yarns; the package is driven by frictional contact
between the surface of the package and the drum.

Types of Winding:
1.

Precision Winding

2.

Non Precision Winding

Precision Winding
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near
parallel manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with
maximum amount of yarn stored in a given volume.

Features of Precision Winding

Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse

Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages

Package contains more yarn

Package is less stable

The package is hard and compact

The package is dense

Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard

The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner

Non Precision Winding

By this type of winding package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the
package at appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give
stability to the package. The packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but
is more stable.

Features of Non Precision Winding

Only one coil is used to make this packages

Cross winding technique is used

The package density is low

Minimum number of yarn is wound

The package formed is soft and less compact

The stability is high

Flanges are not required

The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy

The packages formed have low density

Warping:
Warping is the parallel winding of yarn from cone or cheese package on to a warp
beam. The operation of winding warp yarns onto a beam usually in preparation
for slashing, weaving, or warp knitting also called warping.

Flow Chart of Warping:

Creel

Control system

Reed

Measuring Roller

Winding on a roller or beam

Direct Warping

.................................................. Sectional Warping

Requirements of Warping
To produce a quality beam suitable for the following must be accomplished:
1. The individual ends of the sheet should be spaced uniformly across its full width.
2. All the ends in the sheet should be wound at almost uniform tension.
3. The density of wound yarn beam should be uniform across the width & from start
to end of winding the sheet.
4. The yarn breakage during warping should be as minimum as possible.
5. Density of the beam should be controlled not by increasing yarn tension but by
adjusting the pressure roller on the beam in case of spindle driven beam.
6. The yarn should not get damaged during warping; this can happen if the drum
surface is not smooth &/or the parts in the yarn path have cut marks.

7. The yarn sheet or the beam should not have faults, such as missing ends, cross
ends, slack ends, fluff or wild yarn, high variation in tension between ends,
damaged flanges etc. that will cause end break or defects at
subsequent process.
8. Warping should not impair the physical & mechanical properties of the yarn.
9. The production rate of warping should be as high as possible.
10. A predetermined warping length should be observed.
Faults of Warping
1. Warp off center of the beam
2. Ridgy or uneven warp beam
3. Cress ends
4. Snarl is the warp
5. Missing ends
6. Unequal length of warp
7. Hard beam
8. Unequal size or weight of package

Sizing:
Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form,
applied normally to warp yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns.
Sizing is the process of applying the size material on yarn.A generic term for
compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen
the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax,
and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic
acid, and polyacetates are employed. 2. The process of applying sizing
compounds. 3. The process of weighing sample lengths of yarn to determine the
count. Now automation is used in sizing operation.

Objects of Sizing:
1.

To protect the yarn from abrasion

2.

To improve the breaking strength of the yarn

3.

To increase smoothness of yarn

4.

To increase yarn elasticity

5.

To decrease hairiness

6.

To decrease the generation of static electricity

Types of Sizing:
1.

Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 10 % it is called pure sizing.

2.

Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.

3.

Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 40 % it is called medium

sizing.

4.

Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy
sizing.

Disadvantages of Sizing:

Cost of land and machine is high

Requires lot of labors

Requires utility like gas, electricity etc and their cost is high

Cost of ingredients

The process is long and it takes time

There is a risk of degradation of yarn

The yarn diameter is increased

Requires robust loom

It increases yarn stiffness

The fabric needs to be desized before use

Need knowledge and information about the size ingredients

There is a risk of pollution

Sizing changes the shade of colored yarn

100% size material cannot be removed

Size material presence leads to uneven dying

Drawing-in:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Reed, dropper and heald proper use

Drawer carefulness
Drafting and lifting plan
Production of the drawer.

Weaving:
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known
as weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or
loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The
earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the
years, both the process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal
changes. As of today, there is a wide range of looms being used, right from the
simplest hand loom to the most sophisticated loom.

Classification of Weaving Machines:

Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion
mechanism. The classification is as follows:
1. Shuttle
2. Shuttle-less
Projectile

Rapier
Air-Jet
Water-Jet
Shuttle Weaving:
In shuttle weaving, a shuttle that traverses back and forth across the
loom width, inserts the filling. Shuttles can be made of wood or plastic.
Filling yarn is wound on the quill and the quill is placed in the shuttle.
As the shuttle move across the loom, the filling yarn is unwound from
the pirn and lay in the shed.
Fig: Basic Weaving Mechanism
Projectile Weaving
Projectile weaving machines use a projectile equipped with a gripper to
insert the filling yarn across the machine. The gripper projectile draws
the filling yarn into the shed. The Projectile glides through the shed in a
rake- shaped guide. Braked in the receiving unit, the Projectile is then
conveyed to its original position by a transport device installed under
the shed.

Rapier Weaving:
In Rapier weaving, a flexible or rigid solid element, called rapier, is
used to insert the filling yarn across the shed. The rapier head picks up
the filling yarn and carries it through the shed. After reaching the
destination, the rapier head returns empty to pick up the next filling
yarn, which completes the cycle. A rapier performs a reciprocating
motion.

Rapier weaving machines can be of two types:

1. Single Rapier Machines: A single, rigid rapier is used in these
machines. The rigid rapier is a metal or composite bar usually with a
circular cross section. The rapier enters the shed from one side, picks
up the tip of the filling yarn on the other side and passes it across the
loom width while retracting. Therefore, a single rapier carries the yarn
in one way only and half of the rapier movement is wasted. Also there
is no yarn transfer since there is only one rapier. The single rapiers
length is equal to the width of the loom.

2. Double Rapier Machines: Two rapiers are used in these machines:

one rapier, called the giver, takes the filling yarn from the yarn
accumulator on one side of the loom, brings it to the center of the
machine and transfers it to the second rapier which is called the taker.
The taker retards and brings the filling yarn to the other side. Similar to
the single rapier machines, only half of the rapier movements are used
for filling insertion.
Air-Jet Weaving:
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the
highest weft insertion performance and are considered as the most
productive in the manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics,
preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibers (sheets,
shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple yarns of man-made
fibers); it has anyway to be pointed out that technically positive results
are obtained at present also with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and
that some manufacturers produce also machine models for terry
production.

These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce
bulk quantities of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range
generally from 190 to 400 cm. As regards the multicolor weft carrier, up
to 8 different wefts can be fed. It has however to be considered that the
air jet weaving machines require a high energy consumption to prepare
the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely with
increasing loom width and running speed. The reduction in the energy
consumption is in fact one of the main concerns of the manufacturers,
and builds for the user an important selection criterion.
Water-Jet Weaving :
A water-jet weaving machine inserts the filling yarn by highly
pressurized water. The relative velocity between the filling yarn and the
water jet provides the attractive force. If there is no velocity difference,
then there would be no tension on the yarn results in curling and

snarling of the yarn. Water-jet weaving machine can only be used for
hydrophobic fibers.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Beam binding properly

Pick wheel setting
Count mixing avoided
Warp stop motion correct
Weft fork motion correct
Wastage%
Fabric density checking
Oiling, cleaning properly
Cloth roller cut in time

Creel:
Independently of the warping system, the threads are fed from bobbins placed
on creels. The creels are simply metallic frames on which the feeding bobbins
are fitted; they are equipped with yarn tensioning devices, which in modern
machines are provided with automatic control and centralized tension variation.
Moreover the creels are equipped with yarn breakage monitoring systems . The
creel capacity is the parameter on which the number of warping sections or
beams depends; it should be as high as the installation type and planning
permit; the usual creel capacity amounts today to 800-1200 bobbins. Various
solutions have been designed to reduce the time required to load the creel and
thus increase the warping performance.

Warping Creel
When standard creels are used, the most cost-effective solution is, provided that
there is sufficient room available, to use two creels for one and the same
warping machine; in fact, while one of the two creels is used for warping, the
other creel can be creeled up again. In this case it is advisable that the reserve
creel is equipped with comb holder and that the warp threads are already drawn
through the dents of the combs. This way the loss of time caused by creel
change can be minimized.

Types of Creel:
Mobile Creel: this creel type is similar to the standard creel, but is formed by
trolleys which can be taken individually out of the creel. The bobbins are creeled
up on each trolley outside the creel. During the creeling up of a series of
trolleys, the second series of trolleys is brought back to the outside of the creel
to feed the warper. This reduces considerably the waiting time. The mobile creel
comes in handy especially when there is insufficient room to permit the use of
two standard creels.

Magazine Creel: this kind of creel is used when several warps of similar type
must be prepared in
sequence, that is when large lots of similar yarns need to be processed. Level
with each tensioner, two bobbins are positioned: one operating and the other as
reserve.

Swivel Frame Creel: this type of creel was designed as a variation of the mobile
creel to enable the creeling up of bobbins which, owing to their heavy weight (5
to 25 kg), cannot be pinned on trolleys. Each bobbin holder is double-sided: the
threads are unwound from one side, while a new series of bobbins is creeled up
on the other side.

V-shaped Creel: In this creel type, the creel boards are assembled in form of
endless chains. While warping is carried out from the outer sides using the
already creeled up bobbins, the subsequent yarn lot can be creeled up on the
empty spindles positioned inside the creel. This interior room serves at the same
time as storage and bobbin exchange station. The yarn lot can be changed by
simply pushing a button, which starts the electrically drive of the chains. The
empty bobbins move towards the inside of the creel, the full bobbins towards the
outside.

Yarn Process Control

Flow Chart of Spinning

Blow Room:
The section where the supplied compressed bale is turnt into a uniform lap of
particular length by opening, cleaning, blending or mixing is called blow room
section.It is the first steps of spinning.

Operations in the Blowroom

1.
2.
3.
4.

Opening
Dust removal
blending
Even feed material to the card

Opening
The first operation required in the blowroom line is opening, carried out to the stage
of tufts in contrast to the cards, where it is performed to the stage of individual
fibers. Tuft weight can be reduced to about 0,1 mg in the blowroom. The small
improvements by each of the subsequent machines are obtained only by
considerable additional effort, stressing of the material, unnecessary fiber loss and
a striking increase in neppiness. If necessary the card is able to assume rather
more of the overall task.

Cleaning
It has to be kept in mind that impurities can only be eliminated from surfaces of
tufts. Within a progressive line of machines it is therefore necessary to create new
surfaces continuously by opening the material. And even then the best blowroom

line is not able to eliminate all, or even almost all, of the foreign matter in the raw
material. A blowroom installation removes approximately 40 - 70% of the impurities.
The result is dependent on the raw material, the machines and the environmental
conditions.

Dust Removal
Almost all manufacturers of blowroom machinery now offer dust-removing machines
or equipment in addition to opening and cleaning machines. However, dust removal
is not an easy operation, since the dust particles are completely enclosed within the
flocks and hence are held back during suction (because the surrounding fibers act
as a filter.

Blending
Blending of fiber material is an essential preliminary in the production of a yarn.
Fibers can be blended at various stages of the process. These possibilities should
always
be
fully
exploited,
for
example
by Transverse
doubling transverse doubling.

Even Feed of Material to the Card

Finally, the blowroom must ensure that raw material is evenly delivered to the
cards. Previously, this was carried out by means of precisely weighed laps from the
scutcher, but automatic tuft feeding installations are used nowadays. While in the
introductory phase such installations were subject to problems regarding evenness
of tuft delivery, today they generally operate well.

Carding:
Carding is the most important process in spinning. It contributes a lot to the yarn
quality. The following process parameters and specifications are to be selected
properly to produce a good quality yarn with a lower manufacturing cost cylinder
wire(wire angle, height, thickness and population) flat tops specification licker-in
wire specification doffer wire specification feed weight draft between feed roller and
doffer cylinder grinding doffer grinding flat tops grinding cylinder, flat tops, doffer

wire life Licker-in wire life Cylinder speed flat speed Licker-in speed setting
between cylinder and flat tops setting between licker-in and feed plate setting
between lickerin and under casing elements like, mote knife, combing segment etc.
setting between cylinder and doffer setting between cylinder and back stationary
flats setting between cylinder and front stationary flats setting between cylinder and
cylinder under casing.

Draw Frame
Drawing is the operation by which slivers are blended, doubled and leveled. In
short staple spinning the term is only applied to the process at a draw frame. In
drawing slivers are elongated when passing through a group of pair rollers, each
pair is moving faster than previous one. This permits combing, drawing and
elongating of several slivers to make them strong and uniform.In most modern
worsted drawing sets there are 3 passages of pin drafting and roving process.

Objects of drawing
1.

To straighten the crimped, curled and hooked fibers.

2.

To make the fiber parallel to their neighbors.

3.

To improve uniformity of fibers by drafting and doubling.

4.

To reduce weight per length unit of sliver.

5.

To remove dust from slivers.

6.

To blend raw material of same hank perfectly.

Importance or Necessity of Draw frame in Yarn Production

To parallelization of fiber and blending the carded sliver, draw frame is

needed.

In carded sliver, fibers are present in hook form i.e. trailing hooks and
leading hooks. To parallel these hooks raw frame is used.

Majority of the fiber hooks in a carded sliver are trailing hooks while
leading hooks are comparatively less.

Trailing hooks are also known as major hooks, while leading hooks are
known as minor hooks.

Combing:
1) To remove fibres shorter tan a predetermined length so as to enable spinner
to produce finer yarn than that can be spun from the same carded sliver.
2) To remove neps and impurities.
3) To produce uniform sliver of required wt/unit length.
4) To make the fibre straight and parallel so that yarn becomes even and
lustrous.

Roving Manufacturing:
To draft the sliver to reduce weight per unit length.
To insert small amount of twist to strengthen the roving to prevent breakage
during next processing.
To make conical or tapper shape of the bobbin.
To wind twisted strand on the bobbin .

Ring Spinning:
A filament fiber is the fiber which comes in continuous lengths for use. All the
man-made fibres and silk is filament in nature. The man-made fibers can also be
cut into staple length and spun on usual spinning system for the spun yarn
production. The filaments are spun by chemical spinning which includes the
process of extruding the polymer extrusion through the spinneret. These
filaments are solidified in fiber form. These solidified filaments are brought
together and are slightly twisted to produce filament yarns. The different types of
chemical spinning are as follows:

Chemical Spinning

1. Wet spinning
2. Dry spinning
3. Melt spinning

Speciality Spinning
1. Bicomponent spinning
2. Biconstituent spinning