Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Laboratory Tests
Laboratory Tests
Laboratory Tests
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 1/15
PURPOSE
The purpose of this instruction is to define the mandatory and specific laboratory tests, and the
quality grade required by Kiabi.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 2/15
Page
CONTENTS
1. PREREQUISITE
3. TESTS CATEGORIES
5-6
7-8
10 - 11
12
13
13
14
15
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 3/15
See
1. PREREQUISITE
The tests are carried out in Kiabi approved laboratories in compliance with existing standards.
systematic diffusion
systematic diffusion
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
DQUA_023
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 4/15
See
3. TESTS CATEGORIES
The tests fall into 2 categories.
TESTS
PER
Composition of material
Dimensional stability
Pilling (knit items)
Resistance to rubbing
Resistance to washing
Material
Material
Material
Colour
Colour
DQUA_021
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
DQUA_022
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 5/15
COMPULSPECIFIC
SERY
NF
NORM
ISO
NORM
VALUE
NOTE
3801
5%
1833
3pts
EN14970
5%
FABRIC PROPERTY
X
Weight
X
Fibre composition
Length of consumed yarn
7211-5
3%
Woven
7211-2
5%
Woven
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
X
3759/5077
See 5.1
6330
To dry cleaning
3175
See 5.1
If no washing possible
To twisting
See 6.2
See 5.1
G07-163
G07-168
3%
Woven
Knit
Steam pressure
3005
3%
105 C06
See 5.1
COLOUR FASTNESS
To washing
To dry cleaning
change / staining
cross staining
See 7
Opposite colours
change / staining
105 D01
See 5.1
If no washing possible
105 X12
See 5.1
105 E03
50 mg/l
dry / wet
To chlorinated water
change
(X)
To sea water
change / staining
(X)
105 E02
To light
change
(X)
105 B02
Grade 4
To water
change / staining
(X)
105 E01
_
Compulsory for swimwear
see DQUA_021
Compulsory for swimwear
see DQUA_021
Compulsory for swimwear
see DQUA_021
3/4
To perspiration
change / staining
105 E04
3/4
Babies items
see DQUA_021
To saliva
change / staining
(X)
GB
T 18886
Babies items
see DQUA_021
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
TESTS DESCRIPTION
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 6/15
COMPU
LSORY
SPECI
FIC
NF
NORM
ISO
NORM
VALUE
NOTE
SPECIFIC BEHAVIOUR
Repellent to water (spray test)
4920
Repellency
Permeability to water
811
> 600
> 800
Standard
Waterproof
Air proof
9237
35
Skiwear
7768/6330
4
3,5
Non iron
Easy Care
EN 14878
Class A
6941
15 sec
12952
part 1 & 2
(X)
(X)
(X)
Flammability
(X)
Flammability
(X)
Burning behaviour
(X)
UV protection
see DOCQ_014
Pilling
(X)
X
Abrasion
13934-2
See 5.2
13937-1
See 5.3
12945-1
12945-2
12947-2
EN13770-1
10 000
15 000
City socks
Sport socks
Abrasion
(X)
Peel loss
(X)
12947-2/3
20 000
Peel loss
(X)
AATCC93
3 000
3 min
False fur
Weight loss <12%
13936-2
if viscose >50%
Seam resistance
13935-2
Zippers
BS 3084
See 5.8
zip fastener
(X)
EN 71.1
0 - 3 yrs
Corrosion resistance
22775
Method 2
>50 N
>70 N
if element 6mm
if element > 6mm
PROHIBITED CHEMICALS
14362-1
See 5.4
17234-1/2
Textile
Leather
(X)
Formaldehyde
PCP
(pentachlorophenol)
Heavy metals : mercury, arsenic, copper,
aluminium, chromium, cobalt
Nickel
(X)
(X)
14184-1
See 5.5
DIN 53313
See 5.6
(X)
11885
(X)
EN 1811
0,28 g
Lead
(X)
Phtalates
(X)
_
Compulsory for jewels and
hairs accessories
_
DMF
(X)
Chrome VI
Cadmium
pH value
(X)
(X)
(X)
PAHS
(X)
0,05%
_
EN15777
0 ppm
17075
3 ppm
Compulsory for
Shoes & bags
Compulsory for leather
EN 1122
< 0,01%
3071
ZEK
01.4-08
4 - 7,5
0 ppm
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 7/15
DRESS
TROUSERS
SKIRT
DENIM
Tie & dye
Over dyed
BLOUSON
COAT
RAINCOAT
WINDBREAKER
ANORAK
(POLYAMID)
JACKET
BLAZER
SHIRT
BLOUSE
ISO
NORM
4%H3%W
4%H 3%W
4%H 3%W
4%H 3%W
3%H 2%W
3%H 2%W
3759/5077
6330-3175
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO USE
3
2/3
2
1/2
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
105 X12
_
3 hours
2000 F
4
3 hours
2000 F
4
12945-1
12945-2
TO RUBBING
- Dry
- Wet
- ICI
- Martindale
3 hours
2000 F
3/4
ABRASION
3 hours
2000 F
3/4
20000 cycles
20000 cycles
18000 cycles
20000 cycles
20000 cycles
15000 cycles
12947-2
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
>to fabric
13935-2
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
2 mm
13936-2
SEAM RESISTANCE
SEAM SLIPPAGE
SHORT
TEE-SHIRT
POLO PIQUE
ROMPER
FLEECE
JOGGING
5%H 5%W
8%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
7%H 5%W
5%
5%
PULLOVER
NF
NORM
ISO NORM
UNDERWEAR
SOCKS
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
5%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
in pattern
_
_
5%
5%
5%
5%
G07-168
See 6.2
RIBB//JACQUARD
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING
- With elastane
TO TWISTING
3759/5077
6330 - 3175
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3/4
3
3/4
3
_
_
105 X 12
_
3 hours
3
3 heures
3
3 hours
3
3 hours
3
5 hours
3
5 hours
3
12945-1
20000
10 000 (city)
15 000 (sport)
12947-2 /
EN13770-1
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
TO USE
- Dry
- Wet
ABRASION
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 8/15
JERSEY
PIQUE
FLEECE
INTERLOCK
Waffle
CHENILLE
TERRY
5%H 5%W
8%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
7%H 5%W
6%H 7%W
H+W 12%
6%H 5%W
7%H 6%W
6%H 5%W
_
_
5%
5%
5%
5%
5%
5%
G07-168
See 6.2
NF NORM
ISO NORM
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING
- With elastane
TO TWISTING
3759/5077
6330-3175
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO WASHING
- Change / Staining
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
3/4
105 C06
TO DRY CLEANING
- Change / Staining
105 D01
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
3
2/3
_
_
105 X 12
_
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
20000
3 hours
3
_
3 hours
3
_
12945-1
12947-2
12 %
JIS L1096
Sect 8.19.3
Method C
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
TO USE
- Dry
- Wet
Comment
Requirement
Test method
> 230 N
Essential denim
90 - 130
131 - 200
201 - 270
271 - 340
341 - 400
401 +
Mthode test
Denim
9x7N
12 x 10 N
18 x 15 N
25 x 18 N
28 x 22 N
32 x 28 N
Non Denim
9x7N
12 x 10 N
15 x 12 N
18 x 14 N
22 x 20 N
25 x 22 N
Tearing strength
(Elmendorf)
13937-1
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 9/15
See
5.4 - Standard azodyes
2 colours
3 colours
PASS
< 30mg
< 15mg
< 10mg
FAIL
> 30mg
> 15mg
> 10mg
In the hypothesis where the test reveals the presence of forbidden amines, every colour
will be retested to determine which colour contains azo dyes.
The agreement of the supplier is compulsory to perform this second stage.
Within contact
to skin
Without
contact to skin
PASS
< 30mg
< 75mg
< 300mg
FAIL
> 30mg
> 75mg
> 300mg
FAIL
> 5 mg/kg
Natural
Fabric
Synthetic
Fabric
Coating/
Printing
Leather
Synthetic
Leather(PU/
PVC leather)
Test Method
Azodyes
Textile : EN 14362-1
Leather: ISO 17234-1/2
Formalde
hyde
PCP
DIN 53313
= test required
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 10/15
See
5.7 - Standard phthalates / PAHs
The KIABI standard is Free phthalates and Free PAHS (Polycyclic Aromatic
Hydrocarbons).
The research of phthalates and PAHS is realized on final product with all animations and
accessories, not on a fabric swatch.
On presence of phthalates, the result must be compared with the below table.
PASS
Not Detected
PENDING
0.1 %
FAIL
> 0.1 %
Three colours of one homogeneous material can be mixed for the test.
Example: one print of three colours on same article = 1 test
The percentage for each substance has to be calculated on the whole weight of the
final product.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 11/15
See
The Kiabi operating consists to research the 8 PAHs below:
Benzo[a]pyrene (BaP) CAS No 50-32-8
Benzo[e]pyrene (BeP) CAS No 192-97-2
Benzo[a]anthracene (BaA) CAS No 56-55-3
Chrysen (CHR) CAS No 218-01-9
Benzo[b]fluoranthene (BbFA) CAS No 205-99-2
Benzo[j]fluoranthene (BjFA) CAS No 205-82-3
Benzo[k]fluoranthene (BkFA) CAS No 207-08-9
Dibenzo[a,h]anthracene (DBAhA) CAS No 53-70-3
Three colours of one homogeneous material can be mixed for the test.
Example: one print of three colours on same article = 1 test
On presence of PAHs, the result must be compared with the below tables.
PASS
Not Detected
FAIL
Detected
The result is indicated for each PAHS.
Recommendations by materials
Test
Natural
Fabric
Phthalates
PAHS
Synthetic
Fabric
Coating/
Printing
Leather
Synthetic
Leather(PU/
PVC leather)
Plastics,
Rubber,
Foam
Test Method
EN 15777
ZEK 01.4-08
= test required
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 12/15
3,5 4,5
4,5 5,5
> 5,5
BS 3084
100
160
220
40
70
100
70
80
110
60
80
100
350
450
550
80
130
40
60
70
3,5 5,5
5,5 6,5
> 6,5
BS 3084
150
200
300
50
70
100
70
90
110
70
100
130
400
500
600
100
150
180
50
70
90
4 5,5
5,5 6,5
> 6,5
BS 3084
80
200
250
50
70
100
80
90
100
80
100
120
200
300
370
80
120
160
40
60
70
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 13/15
See
6. SPECIFIC OPERATING MODES
6.1 - Home tests for Essential products
The tests are done on finished garment, each colours shall be tested.
Equipement
Domestic machine like :
Brandt, Miele
Detergent type IEC
Method
Appearance after 3 domestic
washings and tumble dry
according to the care label of
the product.
Washed sample is compared to
unwashed sample.
Requirements
Satisfactory
Weigh and add an extra load, to obtain a total lead of at least 2 kg.
Weigh 50 g of detergent for each washing cycle.
Choose the washing cycle relative to the care label
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 14/15
See
6.2 - Spirality after washing
The method which permits to determine spirality is the following:
- Measure the distance D (to nearest 1 mm) from the natural dried fold on the fabric
square to the inner edge of the seam for top items (see diagram).
For pants items, measure the distance D from the natural dried fold and the inside leg
seam.
On garments these measurements are made at the hem.
- Calculate the percentage spirality i.e : 100 x D / L
L corresponds to:
- underharm to hem length after washing for top items.
- inside leg seam after washing for pants items.
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR
LABORATORY TESTS
Identification
IQUA_020
Date dapplication
2014 Apr 25
Indice
D
Page : 15/15
See
7. COLOR FASTNESS RATING
The bleeding is rated on three fibres only.
The first one is the main fibre of the fabric, the second and third fibres are selected according to
the chart.
1st Fibre
main material
2 ND
3 RD
Cotton / Flax
Wool
Polyester
Wool / Silk
Cotton
Polyester
Acetate / Triacetate/
Viscose
Wool
Polyester
Polyamide
Cotton
Wool
Polyester
Cotton
Wool
Acrylic
Cotton
Wool
Colour staining for products manufactured with several colours with one or more light colours
(ex: red and white), result shall be = 5
Approbation
Date : 2014 Apr 25
Signature : E. NAJAR