/2 = length of a single filling yam (yards),

N1= warp yam number (cotton count),

N2 = filling yam number (cotton count),

n1 = number of ends/inch,
n2= number of picks/inch,
W= basis weight of fabric in oz/sq. yd.
From eqn. (8.2a) length of a single warp yam
/I = x (1 + S1) yards
Therefore, total length of warp yams
=n1xwxli=niwx (1 + S1) yards Weight
of warp yams
niwx(1+Si)
840N1

lb

(8.11)

lb

(8.12)

Length of a single filling yam

=12= w (1 + S2) yards Total
length of filling yams
=112 x w (1 + S2) yards

Weight of filling yams

n2wx(1+S2)
840N2

Weight of fabric excluding size

= weight of warp + weight of filling

35

niwx(1+S1)
840N1

n2wx(1+S2)
840N2

lb.

w x ni w x ( 1 +S i ) n2 w x ( 1+ S2 )
840
840N1
840N2

(8.13)

Weight per square yard of fabric

[ eqn.(8.13) ] 36

xw

N.B. w is in inches and x is in yards.

Weight per square yard of fabric
36
840

= 0.043

n1 (1+S1) +
N1
'
n i (1+Si) +
Ni

n2wx(1+S2)
N2

n2 (1+S2)
N2

Using normal units of basis weight

(i+
W = 0.69 [
(1+Si) +
Ni
z/sq. yd.(8.14a)
n i
,.52')

lb.
lb.(8.14)
N2

Consider a special case in which the fabric has a

square construction, i.e. the same yarn number for warp
and filling and the same ends/inch as picks/inch, then
Nl= N2 = N
ni =n2 =n

and the weight will be:

36

= 0.69

(1 + S1) + (1 + S2)] oz/sq. yd. (8.15)

N

It must be realized that even if the same yarn

number is used for warp and filling, the crimp levels
may still be different due to the difference in yarn
tension and twist.
Generally speaking, eqn. (8.13) gives the weight of
the finished fabric, but it is possible to lose lint which
will reduce the weight accordingly. Usually this loss is
very small and can be neglected. The loom state basis
weight is calculated from the following:
Weight of fabric as per eqn. (8.13) + weight of size
weight of size
= (weight of warp yarn) (percentage

nlwx (1+S1)
840N1

size pick-up)
100

xZ

(8.16)

Where Z = percentage size pick up 100.

Weight of gray fabric
wx [n i (1+S 1 )(1+Z)
840
N1

112 (1+S2)
N2

]lb.\(8.17)

Let basis weight of gray fabric = W g.

ni

n2

W g =0.69 [Ni (1 + Si) (1 + Z)+ v2(1 + S2) }z/sq yd. (8.18)

Equation (8.14a) is useful when considering
finished fabrics and eqn. (8.18) is useful when
37

considering those loom state fabric which are sold on a

weight basis. 1691(P.I Lord and M.H Mohamed,
1973).

1.4. Fabric Extension:

When fabric is subjected to tension in a single
direction, it extends fairly easily until most of the crimp
has been removed and then it becomes stiffer. The latter
effect is controlled mainly by the character of the yarn.
Thus there are two principal mechanisms of extension.
The first arising from changes in the fabric structure and
the second from changes in the yarn structure. There is
no distinct boundary, rather it is a case of a change in
emphasis: furthermore, the effect of friction has to be
taken into account, but for the present let this be ignored
for the sake of simplicity. To show the effect of fabric
structure, let the extensibility of the yarn also be
ignored. 1691(1'.R. Lord and M.1 Mohamed, 1973).
-

After extension let the wavelength = 2e and the

crimp factor be Se, the length / remains the same,
therefore
1= 20 + = 2, (1 + S e )
whence

1+S
1 + Se

/le
A
-

Fabric extension = (

) x 100 per cent

38

= 2 e - 1) x 100 per cent (8.19)

A
= ( S- Se ) X 100 per cent
1 + Se
In other words, the fabric extension is a function of
the change in crimp. With inextensible yarns, the initial
crimp level would be the limiting extension but, as has
been shown earlier, crimp in one direction is only
changed at the expense of the crimp in one other
direction. For example, if the fabric were subjected to
warp wise tension (which tends to straighten out the
warp) it could only extend if the crimp in the filling was
increased or if the yarns themselves extend. If , for any
reason, there was a restraint to prevent the increase in
crimp in the filling direction, this would be felt as a
change of stiffness in the warp direction. For this
reason, behavior when tension is applied in a single
direction (uniaxial load) is different from behavior
when tension is applied in two directions (biaxial load).
This can be expressed in mathematical terms as follows:
From eqn. (8.10).
T1.

Tf

Afilw
A
/If 1-lw

Tw

T= f

Sw

(8.20)

In other words, when the yarns are in contact and

the fabric structure permits free movement, the warp
wise tension is a function of the filling tension and the
ratio of the crimp factors. When the fabric jams, a
39