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John Reed, Ten Days
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Volume 5
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Pennsylvania
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VOLUME V
SLAVIC PEOPLE
THE WAR IN
EASTERN EUROPE
DESCRIBED BY
JOHN REED
PICTURED BY
BOARDMAN ROBINSON
NEW YORK
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
1918*
Copyright,
1916,
by
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
The
polit-
Balkans, and
publication,
it
stances change,
press.
does; and
was
it
chiefly with
"As
to
me
war
is
I look
back on
it all,"
how
tradition,
many human
other hand,
much
Robinson and
sions of
crisis;
And
up
but on the
In
say.
are covered
qualities
the
their environment,
time of peace,
merged
know about
is
sub-
in this
book
human beings
as
we found them
in the countries
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
vi
So
it is
and military
changed, but
is
all
and slowly
Austrian invasion."
Pruth at night in a small boat and landed at the Rus"It was unprecedented.
sian front.
We
We
south,
and
covina, Galicia,
and Poland."
and as a
difficulties
this
and released,
to Petrograd;
company with
soldiers
and
officers
will leave a
whenever
envisage
it
accordingly.
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
"Once more
mined
a British passport.
I should
in Bucarest," says
to see Constantinople,
ii
Enver Pasha
promised me that
first
About
this
same time
was
unofficially notified
seen
me
many Armenians."
Returning again to Bucarest, Mr. Reed met Mr. Robinson and then together they travelled through Bulgaria,
home.
The
more normal
East-
life of the
seem to
and destruction of
men
and become
alike in the
mad democracy
settled
down
cities,
to talk
to
of battle.
war
to this
As
as a business,
new way
of life
Portions of the
as originally
PUBLISHER'S NOTE
such as the arrest of Mr. Reed and Mr. Robinsoa in
Poland, their experiences with the Cossacks, and their
in
of the series,
and of
their peoples
CONTENTS
PAGE
I.
II.
III.
The Country
VI.
Death
>
22
33
.......
Back Door
115
.......
Came
Optimistic Pilgrimage
The Face of
185
200
....
214
226
.......
246
267
........
289
161
173
Russia
127
137
XIII.
87
97
An
53
69
Nation Exterminated
VII. Russia's
XII.
IV. Belgrade
V.
of
...
320
ILLUSTRATIONS
Half-savage giants dressed in the ancient panoply of
that curious Slavic people
war
is
Frontispiece
FACING
PAGE
The
4
5
sentry
(Serbia
Sketches.
(Nish)
Nish)
10
hospital at Nish
11
24
prisoners
in
uniform wandered
freely
"A
Little
25
Avenger of Kossovo"
40
41
46
rolling hills
47
100
["My husband!"] he
101
his hand.
said in his
^Bucovina)
"Mon
mari!"
bad French.
108
xi
ILLUSTRATIONS
xii
FACING
PAGE
(Turcoman)
109
Steppes of Asia
Gun
119
positions in Bucovina
128
129
The
144
station at Tarnopol
145
(Kovel)
Blind for
life.
soldier
(Tarnopol)
puttees.
Chanting legions.
Sketches.
(On
Sketches.
(Cholm)
the
(Lemberg)
159
Way
174
158
to
Lemberg)
175
Victoriei in Bucarest looks like
this
270
271
The
Pirot country
The Serb
..
on Nish
....
....
304
305
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
with camphorated
our
hair, filled
oil,
put kerosene on
and boarded a
lime.
office in
Salonika strolled
down
to bid us a
last farewell.
"Too bad,"
Do
said Wiley.
"So young,
too.
shall
we have you
buried
up there?"
typhus
bound
abdominal
kills fifty
per cent of
its
victims,
and
THE WAR
whose
Most
ing
bacillus
no
man had
doctors thought
lice,
who
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
was carried by
it
travelled with us
up
"I've been
then discovered.
was
M.
cloth-
C. lieutenant
sceptical.
"and I've long ago stopped taking any precautionary measures whatever except a daily
bath.
As
one
"They're really
the typhus
it
at
is
it,
The
you know.
that no one
He
truth about
all,
Serbian nation
is
dead of
it.
.
.
epidemic
and
the virus
was weaker.
Now
gangrene.
ghastly
mud
of
the
dreadful
In February
it
post-typhus
want of
delirious in the
hospitals.
THE SENTRY.
Hollow-cheeked,
filthy,
and starved-looking.
heavily.
Half a hundred
priests
succumbed
Out
of
hundred were
all.
left.
And
less
than two
the typhus
was not
and
cholera, which
was sure
in far
cases
of
com-
where
battle-fields, villages,
men and
horses.
was dressed
He
and carried
know what
to
it
into a corner.
"We
THE WAR
we have
an
believe you're
officer unless
you carry a
..."
sword.
As we
hills
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
how
he told us
ments in the
filthy
towns,
compelled anti-
these
The Serbians
secure
one of
his
men
too,
infected, they
abandoned
And
burst.
Colonel
the Americans
To
the
was a proof of
timidity.
They regarded
the
sort
as
The gorge
of the Vardar, as
sterile frontier
if it
were a
New
still
hills,
be-
higher, with
From
streams.
In
young
from the
tobacco-plants, acres
berry-trees,
upon
acres of mul-
every
field,
Here
slopes
among
the rocks,
wool and
Irregular,
white,
silk
on wooden
dis-
red-roofed villages
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
little
Here and
creaking cartsleried
there
was the
gal-
dome
little
of a
brown
fur,
men
and
homespun
leather
linen,
their
in
Turkish
creamy
tights of
vests
richly
worked
in colored wheels
suits of
and
flowers, or in
wound
knees;
women
wound
to the
worked
in flow-
ers,
color
white
silk kerchiefs
on
Many wore
their heads.
of gay rags
fling
for
dresses,
barefooted
shuf-
tall,
self in
French
officer
The
other re-
sponded.
"Dobra!
and
saluting.
"That
man
Good !" he
station,"
as the train
remarked the
moved on
secret-service
tier.
big,
gaunt
10
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
soldier's kepi.
"We
smiling.
uniforms.
years
our friend,
Albanian
revolt,
and now
this one.
For
Now we
field
minutes.
of Gievgieli," he said
laconically.
sands of those
a grave!
little crosses,
been
thou-
There came
in sight a great,
tramped-down
humped
into
A HOSPITAL AT NISH.
In the feeble light of two lanterns
we could
11
with
rifle-belts crisscrossed
like
Mexican
stacked
rifles,
Between were
revolutionists.
Below
mud
the
men were
drink-
down
huts, at the
bottom of the
Around
fire
hill,
villages
up
the valley.
come
to
guard the
last
week.
Government
the Austrians
pay them?
At
Is
responsible, or did
tell,
in the Balkans."
And
mud and
THE WAR
12
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
last desperate
manhood
men
sent arms.
the
who
live in the
At
this
first
The same
more unkempt
villages,
from the
walls; the
little
tiles
gone
from the
But soon
chil-
weedy
fields
un-
In Greek
oxen, led by a
field
Occasionally
woman
we saw two
13
from
his shoulder.
The
secret-service
"All the
dead
men
and
all
man
pointed to them.
army
by the gov-
But
since
or
trains.
no
So the
fighting.
soldiers
Sometimes, in details
before our imaginations a picture of this country of the dead: with two bloody wars that
its
youth, a two
this fear-
on
earth,
that.
Yet from
Europe.
power
springing,
all
southern
THE WAR
14
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Gievgieli shares with Valievo the distinction of being the worst plague-spot in Serbia.
guard
lime,
at the fence,
and armed
where a hun-
for
was quarantined.
We stared through
stout,
mustached
man
in a dirty collar,
down
Panama
pulled
rounded by a dense
circle of soldiers.
He
held
man
"See!" he cried.
know
this flower!
"Is
it
man
It
is
very curious
is
evidentlv of
He
scowled and
It
with a menacing
15
... But
the
pistil
The
It
is
fat
man
"Nonsense!
The
soldiers
"Da!
of argument:
chida!"
"But
it is
Orchidia !"
"Ne
evidently an orchid!"
hum
je or-
"What
At
this.
Above
"I
tell
you
it is
of orchid!
It
an orchid!
is
It
unknown
is
new kind
to the science of
"
botany
"Orchid?" he said to
"Of course
"It
is
it's
The
hotly.
"It
American woods
fat
with a sneer.
not an orchid!"
an orchid!" I returned
formed very
see in
me
man
is
we
"
"Yes,
THE WAR
16
EASTERN St ROPE
IN
Americans'?
Are you
"The- same.
have- been in
America.
have
work
the
at
am
cattle-ranch.
on foot
Yuma
am
hand
in
Arizona
studying
all
No?
first-
farms.
My name
is
Lazar Obichan.
am
an
Department of
in
He
make a space
by a
"I
in the crowd,
pert.
am
body
New
elbows to
seized us each
in
soil,
Serbia.
I have invented a
and
his
lapel.
crop conditions of
It
waved
any
climate,
am an
new method
soil,
in
and
ex-
to tell
any country.
a new
science.
Listen!
You
give
me
the humidity
Robinson
He
stiffly in
"Then
I put him
From mean
isn't it?
poked
the shoulder-blade.
17
"From
down,
line straight
He
suited the
phragm.
meet
His
And
voice rose.
the point
is
He
day!"
poked us simultaneously
and repeated:
"The Evaporation
One Day!"
for
in the
He
threw
"But
went on
and
that
much
all
I have in
"There
scheme
is
will
home.
mind," he
Listen
Af-
From where
all at
my
a vast commercial
immense
foreign capitals.
come?
need
not
heavily.
financial
ter this
is
We were impressed.
in.
will
England
he
will
will
be
THE WAR
18
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
No
absolute exhausticated.
Where
rope.
America
ica.
know how
then ?
is
tell
rich.
From Amer-
you.
rich.
We
Listen!
a Serbian- American
tals
profit!
will establish
Belgrade.
It will lend
It will
money to Serbians
twelve
per cent!
split
big
up
It will
sell
you
all
buy
in small pieces
profit.
land cheap
but
We
Then
in
It will
you say?
sit
and
from Eu-
capitals
can buy
are
how do
open
in
Belgrade a
American
and
machines, American
and take orders
shoes,
cloth
in
American
New York
big!
Make money
You
shall write
19
On
The
was ringing.
sta-
We
"Serbia
is
still
talking.
sources," he shouted.
cotton, tobacco, silk
"Here
very
there
ples.
"Minerals
on board.
we
"
Farther
We
"
swung
he yelled after
"
And
us.
then
about him.
official
"Lazar Obichan?" he
him.
for
in
"Gold
soil
is
up
He
ran.
He
is
said.
"Yes,
under observation
we know
suspected of
Austrian Gov-
ernment!"
Late
in the afternoon
we
halted on a siding
twelve open
flat
20
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
and ends of
ored blankets.
gypsy
It had
fiddler
begun
to rain a
little.
his
to Ralya,
"And now
How
the Swabos
Pol,
know
three gypsies,
accompany the
Austrians.
Swabos
21
love-songs,
epic chants.
And
celebrations
all
of victory,
and singing.
sies
The gyp-
Strange substitution!
who
transmit-
and
And
ballads.
no land
only
and
their tents
their
dilapidated caravans.
We
among
tossed
For a moment
over,
they
said
smiled,
gently.
fully!"
They turned
flat faces.
nodding to
"Fala lepo!
Then
us.
light
broke
"Fala," they
Thanks
beauti-
II
We
"IRTISH.
^
out
attached
by a bandit
wide
street
to
fell
paved with
and jolted up a
sharp
cobbles.
rose,
European
style,
Here and
cathedral.
there
with telephone-wires.
The
street
mud and
opened into
cobbles bound-
huge modern
arc-lights.
At one
up
side
to a
and
an ox
wooden
23
had done
plates, as they
it
solid iron
years.
Some
down
We
in idleness.
And
them
to live,
an Austrian
Now
his sword.
populated and
food.
...
It
train in Serbia
full
mud, the
try.
official
on foot
we
The roads
of disease, there
is difficult
And there
frontier. ..."
ble.
and then
is
no
enough to travel by
it
would be impossi-
all
along the
THE WAR
24
We
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
dragged themselves
blankets,
ing
mud
vivors
upon
dirty
in
and out of
up on
piles of dry-
Beyond
from the
dif-
of
Turkish trousers.
Pigs
squealed,
hens
men
Here was
the centre
American
shoe-store,
and
little
shops, sudden
25
windows ablaze
wom-
en's hats.
gypsies, poverty-
gendarmes
peasants,
with
great
army
officers
soldiers in
sol-
on crutches, without
crowded hospitals
the
typhus
still
and
prisoners.
everywhere
Government
the
officials
army
Austrian
hurried by
Fat Jewish
hobnobbed with
political
Women
contractors
government
clerks,
in Nish,
and a mountain
vil-
26
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
come a
sand
city of
For
died.
Roman
tine the
On
of
soldiers,
scratching themselves,
sleeping,
and twisting
in fever.
lice,
Everywhere
The
other.
side streets
the cobbles.
In the
Some
27
and
res-
them
if
but
still it
you stayed
was an
in a hotel
or public building.
American
vice-consul,
at the consulate
and introduced us
in
at the Diplo-
was
to be got
when
half the
town was
starving.
silver
and snowy
and
linen,
by the name of
Fritz,
who had
To
club stairs as
if it
mount
the
for.
as
we
first
saw
it.
Two
28
THE WAR
weeks
we
later
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
the streets.
It
On
spring in Serbia.
at
into the
woods and
fields,
all
day.
And
even here, in
this filthy,
their dirty
were a gay
changed
the streets
summer
zling linen.
All the
and new
suit of
embroidered daz-
silk kerchiefs,
dresses
even the
purple
raced
lilac
branches.
sers of extravagant
Through
girls in
the streets
Turkish trou-
and gorgeous
colors, their
hung in their
strapping
ears.
women
great
work of the
in the
We
29
the mid-
fields.
Red
chief of the
all
He
medical ne-
I noticed a
handsome
"My
We
a peasant.
that
is
who won
trian
Many
is
our pride.
his father
She
live.
was a peasant.
is
a poor
Voyvoda Michitch,
man;
country,
is
Aus-
a peasant.
ant dress."
He
who
sit
there in peas-
"And on
you so
\
THE WAR
SO
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
watched
my
duty.
He
is
his shoulders
vitch, at
But I
We
you?
will
threw back
effort.
stand and
What
..."
ago.
now
must do our
with a visible
The worst
interesting now.
will give
you a letter
to Stanoie-
Chere Kula."
late
The name
rain.
of Skulls";
it is
is
"Mound
Turkish, meaning
literally
a tower of skulls of
site
of a
monument
tenant Stanoievitch, in
pital,
command
of the hos-
dim
Lieu-
light
it
loomed
In the
chapel, a great
grinning heads
still
embedded
in
it,
and draped
this sinister
31
The wind
lodged.
set
We entered
and
Some
still
The
hospital orderlies,
all
who
slept in
Austrian prisoners.
this hospital
"Before
Now we
have only
I came
it
you
see,
we have no room
for even
these."
We
THE WAR
32
until
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
the helplessness of
we dined with
Later,
staff of
students.
in a
gay and
war we forgot
lively
for a
moment
Stanoie-
"What
What
We
Serbians
know
be over
...
1"
that
all
that
is
needed
is
Ill
N'
Our
train
American
we
army headquarters.
army
at the front,
and
one man
even wore a
German
casque.
They sang an
about
air,
how
And
his
my
son
Who
Have passed
Valievo.
He
girt
upon him
33
them
."
!'
.31
THE WAR
IN
The railway
River.
Here
loam of the
line
all
fields
EASTERN EUROPE
the
paralleled
Morava
in the black
with
ploughed.
White, low,
Beyond them
stretched
passed
Teshitza,
We
in flood.
At
pest-holes
all.
erstwhile lecturer
on
He
is
calling
35
him "John-
name.
He
knew him.
comment on
would
we
passed,
and
some
friend.
"For Heaven's
"Excuse me,
sake,
sair!"
he would respond
emnly.
war-time
We
Finally,
sol-
Thees
patience.
is
!"
of
George Meredith.
the Press
active organization.
and rhymes.
For
instance,
officer of the
He
feared
THE WAR
36
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
said that
it
was
taken prisoner,
we have made a
if
his
we
when
prominent nose!
Yes,
note.
He
had
by respectable
he explained,
was true
"my
society.
"Because,"
to Serbian
life,
and that
is
But
it
the ideal
European smartness,
cul-
cynicism, modern-
virile
stock of a
young race
patriotic
and
intensely independent.
37
the peasants
and
now
which
They
modern
affect
art,
They
young
officer
Mountain with a
years the
life
of a fight-
more
terrible
retreat,
He had
and
still
campaign,
am
we rode
think?
so
along.
it.
am
"It
is
so pastoral, don't
you
THE WAR
38
Pastoral
Symphony when
He
try."
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
am
in the coun-
That
is
the Third,
isn't it?"
all his
plains of
Hungary
And
still
We
sensitive about
.
rude throne-room of the palace of Milan Obrenovitch, first of the Serbian kings ; his
red-plush-and-gilt throne
still
gaudy
Turks
"This palace
monuments,"
more than
is
said
fifty
in
who
died by
Macedonia
in the
War.
years ago."
39
since she
emerged
as a free state
from
and
five
in that
all
the uniting
Hungarian
Croatia,
spoken language
identical
in
race
and
and Slovenia.
strong, reaching
and from
plains of
An
Trieste, east
into the
the
kingdom of
mountain
Serbia,
penned
in their
narrow
life
of
knows what he
is
ships at sea.
Every peasant
fighting for.
soldier
When he
was a baby,
little
his
mother
avenger of Kos-
THE WAR
40
sovo!"
(At the
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
When
fell
his
will
you
deliver
Macedonia!"
The ceremony of
by the
recitation of
an ancient poem
began,
"I
am
Son of
Iliya, of Milosh, of
Vasa, of Marko."
at length)
"My
And
all
redemption
first
and Batchka!
"A" LITTLE
AVENGER OF KOSSOVO."
Kossovo
is
41
who
numerous
"brothers,
their
as
vineyard."
in Serbia,
"What
if
government
"It
is
official.
means that
after
war we must
An
we met
later said,
"We
with
thought that
many
but
And
here
many
made
his
years.
This
is
!"
this
fight again!"
it
Serbia"
It
is
governed by the
the
Senate,
derisively
known
as
42
THE WAR
the
"Museum," was
Alexander
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
tried
Kins
abolished in 1903.
to
rule
and
autocratically,
is
strictly
There
is
no aristocracy
Only the
in Serbia.
and
to the
the ultra-
Signer."
him always
as
the
an order of
nobility, "but," as
title,
"Manifestto establish
Johnson
said,
known
in Serbia.
of
Rumania
are un-
all
known
as zadrougas,
famity, with
its
communal ownership
And
as yet there
in Serbia,
and few
is
no industrial population
rich
men.
43
and twice
streets of
nitza,
Valievo
But
in the rain.
Machva
dislodge
them from
And then,
dred thousand
fifty
men
hun-
five
thousand.
among
its
and
mountains.
army back
cannon had
Ammunition began
less
than twenty
to fail
the
shells apiece.
The
44
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
staff.
And then, at the last minute, something happened. New supplies of ammunition arrived
from Salonika, and the younger
officers revolt-
it
was
ordered an offensive.
General Michitch
The beaten
fell
Serbians,
upon
the
row mountain
defiles to attack.
Caught on the
march, burdened with big guns and heavy baggage-trains on roads almost impassable from
The
line
was broken.
first
were
Their
army,
This
is
how
the typhus,
45
For a time
the left
wing
tried to hold
drove them
shot
them
as they
swam
across.
soldiers
on Serbian
Some
call
it
But
it is,
and
per-
At
World War.
the right
He
however
sat a
pope
Greek Church.
These Serbian
They
priests are
patriotism
among
the
remarkable people.
the transmitters of
peasants.
They are
THE WAR
46
"Why
there
is
years
EASTERN EUROPE
"In Serbia
no Clerical party.
eh?"
"I have
IN
He turned to the
now been
not
fighting in the
who nodded.
army
for three
ment
Churches,
lic
hadjis.
Why,
and Catho-
really extraordinary 0
The
mufti
thousand!
forget that
We are
men first,
and priests afterward." He laughed. "Have
you heard the story of how the Serbian bishop,
pope
at his side.
Duchitch,
No
"
Serbs and
'You are
London,
'in
your people.
very devout.'
am
Bishop of
Mr. Duchitch,
much
to
God.
finally took
Belgrade,
less
We
we do
prayed
it
ourselves !'
when we took
God
"
We
Serbia
'in
It was midnight
47
still
far
from the
city.
empty
trains
Army
of the
Danube,
It
was a region of
mountain
some Dahee
fifty
high, rolling
loftier
castle of
now
There
cultivation.
mud and
straw housed
sloping
meadows
THE WAR
48
ground
and
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
in spots
oak
trees
stood
and
branchless
leafless,
rifle-
bullets.
The
we were
forced to leave
with white
and farm-
villas
in
summer
its
the fashionto
show
newest gowns.
its
Now
kempt.
vilion.
shell
Under
little
make emi
French
on the
for
two
sailors of the
French
cannon
the
Our
was
49
nothing
like
fell
when suddenly
upon our
ears.
It
double
boom
shells.
A two-horsed cab,
its
They
are firing
on the road!
"Put-
The
We
For about a
then
it
ceased.
50
THE WAR
We
heads.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
looked up.
There, immeasurably
Her
were painted
lower planes
She was
blue.
and
al-
Behind
her, not
it
Even
other distant
shells
gun
we
looked, an-
We
as
trees.
crawled up a steep
hill
and descended
In front of
us,
unpaved
Danube and
the Save,
was
ancient
Hungarian mountains,
and yet
is
the
when they
first
cities.
Down
double
file
at the
bottom of the
hill
a long
tiently in the
51
officers
questioned them.
"Of what
"I
am
"And you?"
"Kratti" (Croat) "of the mountains."
officer, "this is
Swabos!"
Croat.
"And what
"Italiano
from Trieste."
"Tchek."
all sorts
of provisions*
52
THE WAR
fodder, hay,
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Here
in
rifle
A sentry with a
bay-
in front of
now
Vladislav
Wenz,
be packing flour
IV
BELGRADE UNDER THE AUSTRIAN GUNS
/^\UR
si-
lent Belgrade.
The sound
a year.
ceased.
of guns
had entirely
wind whirled
and a
little
unpaved roadway
it
was hard
to
from the
imagine that
and that
were
the
War
all
gaped
Great
in the
mid-
shattering
city, as
Everywhere
warm
Office
54
THE WAR
concentrated
legation
and the
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
fire
flag
its
broken pole.
was worse.
Shells
is
Belgrade's
street, the
damage
As we
imitating
Hardly
it.
hail of fire
houses,
public buildings
and
days before.
metre
room
in the air,
and
55
The University
yawning
of Belgrade
ruins.
it
We
ciety
met an
officer
who belonged
a classmate of the
said, "the
courage
assassin.
government knew.
us,
but
it
to this so-
"Yes," he
It tried to dis-
could do nothing.
Of
course
aganda."
could
it
prevent ?
Our
constitution guarantees
"But how
and organizations.
in-
to build again.
Now we
shall
demand
in the
THE WAR
56
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
libraries,
laboratories,
German
and
universities
complete.
all
ne.
We
berg or Bonn.
..."
to drift
had deserted
months
bombardment.
the streets
A few stores
opened,
timidly
six
back
of
comment on
fash-
the people
who
sat at tables,
"You
see that
little,
He
important-looking
is
Mr.
man
who
is
He
is
called
editor of
La
an insignificant newspaper
every day under the bombardment, and imagined himself a great hero.
But
there
is
little
is
sung
57
over Bel-
all
grade:
"
An
It
said:
"Now
air.
shall destroy
City";
But when
it
saw that
it
would
hit
"Phoot!"
way
In the corner a
stout, dirty
man
with the
"That
is
editor of the
Mali Journal.
bicycle-rider.
founded a
little
man and
trick
No
They were
so that
some
THE WAR
58
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Here,
literally
by big
shells.
Roads
wrecked.
bellies to the
edge of the
cliff
overlooking
the river.
who had us
Swabos
us a
see
in charge.
shell."
From
of the
muddy Danube
in
flood,
inundated
water,
and
drowned
the
wide
plains
of
Hungary
On
Two
town
that
59
And beyond,
Almost
international
the
of
bridge
railway
Europe
plunging
from
prodigiously
their
And up-stream
still
of
where the
Tzigalnia,
guards
the
lay
in
was the
their
enemy on another
Serbian
and
trenches
island
to
away up
several
the
black
The
dots
Danube behind
sniped
four hundred
advance-
captain
lying
miles
the shoulder of
Semlin.
"And
to shore
lish
down
gunboat.
stole
said.
lies close
is
up
the
in
Eng-
the river
We ex-
THE WAR
60
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
The Austrians
now.
usually take
it
out on
Belgrade."
But
the
Then white
fire,
miles astern.
"The
last
John-
We bom-
positions."
We
made
and
their
among
hill
trees
overlooking
their
sailors
lolled
meadows back
61
past
down
to
the
The Serbian
batteries
old field-guns
made by Creusot
War,
King Milan
in
France for
in the
trians
German field-guns,
artillery
manufac-
Chinese characters.
the roofs of
and
guns were.
At
search-light
would
night
flare
city,
among
the
great Austrian
blinding; sparks
would
THE WAR
62
islands,
fire
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
dark.
One
and
in
mud
rifle-
with their
shells whistled
oyer
Then
the
sky,
exploding
We
we
stood.
so
Our
apart, for
drawn
fire.
two
vehicles together
Where we
would have
is
We must
in a boat
63
pit,
and thin
steel plates
As
to be ar-
we rounded
the pro-
who was
bulwarks.
soon as
pilot, engineer,
gun
lay.
"Why
chanted.
ards?
do you not
Does the
sight of
fire,
Swabo cow-
unarmed Serbians
On
her
Neboysha,
bow
which
Serbian
for
was
"Dread-
nought."
"That
captain.
is
THE WAR
64
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
battle.
That
river.
is
let
night,
her float
how we captured
we filled
down the
this island."
foot-
merged willow-trees
narrow
to a
strip of land
yards long.
rude
the
Here
rifle-pits,
the soldiers
had dug
their
muddy embankment,
unshaven, unwashed,
From
food.
of
mud,
you could
waists.
trenches
little
level,
river
Many
like animals.
We
it
of the trenches
two days
was up
before, the
to the men's
soldiers poled us
up and down
in
scows.
bombs slung
under
an
at their shoulders,
armed
guard,
were at work
surlily
digging
trenches.
said
irregular
drawn from
ists,
65
uniform,
volunteers without
guerilla
"They
for years.
are
"They refused
under
he
arrest,"
to dig trenches or
roads.
not laborers
Removing our
!'
explained.
work on the
We
in
are war-
"
hats,
we peered
rifles
cautiously
;
a similar
where
for
the
all this
Austrians
lay.
me grunted and
fired.
the
blue
soldier
Almost im-
showered down.
THE WAR
(66
Our boatman
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
thrust off
"perhaps
it
will
tempt them."
clear.
He
his hands,
and
up
in the stern,
bellowed a
satirical
cupped
sang:
"The Emperor Nicholas rides a black horse,
The Emperor Franz Joseph rides a mule
And
So now
is
Hardly had he
fifty
finished
tail
!"
when
us.
We
hit the
up with a
shrapnel.
tiles
and lead
pel-
Now we
"There's
the steersman.
any candidate!"
balls to defeat
row-boat
full of soldiers
67
trees.
"They
them.
"That's
are firing!"
why
shot at us!"
"Perhaps
They rounded
they'll take
in the ruins of
we
it,
a great
command
To get to
it,
fire
shells
had
set
to the place.
The
colonel,
In Serbia the
between
silly
officers
down with
us.
exist.
Many
discipline
times in res-
THE WAR
68
taurants
we
missioned
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
approach
officer
where
table
And
around and
all
sit
tween us to drink
down.
his coffee
introduced.
One
He
all
the
other plays.
"Hamlet," he
we have
said,
not played
But
it
who
hummed
morning
The sound
humming
crawled up a
strewn with
hill
White
trian shore.
of the motors
Our
carriages
villas
hidden in
Then we plunged
into a winding,
up beneath
where women
and linen
trees
vests
of the
fields
in
tiles,
and
embroidered leather
skirts
to
we had
City,
Below and
who guided
the
by
69
70
THE WAR
strips of
IN
homespun
EASTERN EUROPE
linen
little
now one
could
it
We
muddy
down
steep
oaks,
hills
fled
Once we passed
taller
than a man,
hadjis.
Immense
Johnson
hill
71
the Roman
it
Then
moss-grown
Greek
crosses
leaning
its
crazily
roofs; these,
little
men of the neighborhood who had died in unknown places and whose bodies had never been
found.
over the
hills.
of weeds.
Last year's
fields
were jungles
we bumped down
vines.
romped with
Sometimes
and children
This
THE WAR
72
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
We
air.
with
its
for
on
set
the earthen floor, aged peasants with the simplicity of children took off their hats
"Dobar dan,
grave politeness.
"Good
your voyage
day,
gos'podinef'
sirs!
We
hope
The gnarled
.pleasant."
is
with
old
how
"A
through
'all
this door.
you have
'I
want money,' he
But I answered
quick!'
I had no money.
shirt
You
see?"
that
here.
said;
He
Still
me
I said I had
Johnson pointed
73
to the fences
In half a mile
seemed
It
I counted
"Every
in the house."
Late
in the afternoon
we topped a
hill
its
up
to the
range.
and beyond,
and
all
Here
the river
made
wooded plain
the
down
the hill
In the marshes on
little
flood
and joined
level, like
ter.
We drove
Ob-
flooded country;
we
74
THE WAR
unpaved
EASTERN EUROPE
low houses
windows
They
IN
set in
much ceremony
led us with
to the
comed us
man
at his door.
who
wel-
The
into their
from the
around racking
at our boots,
fell
on
make
brought plates of
oranges; soldiers
Two
us comfortable; a
apples
and
and
their knees
candied
and pulled
in
and out
tables,
shrill,
75
exasperated orders to
the servants.
"We
managed
to
"In Serbia
it is
visit one's
the highest
house."
we experienced many
remember we were
for weeks
there
in a strange
town where
was no tobacco.
try to find
Once, I
times.
some
We
went
in,
and
to a shop to
cigarettes.
ing
up
his hands.
a moment.
we
were.
safe
He
looked at us for
We
said
Whereupon, he unlocked an
iron
ettes.
"The charge
is
nothing," he said:
cigar-
"You
are foreigners."
Our
76
THE WAR
wall
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
man
is
my
girl.
father," he said.
When
"He was
the Austrians
As
Hungary.
and
her also
since
know
ing.
for
my
is
dead there
sister here,
August
in
they took
is
living or
dead."
Here we
atrocities
first
We
first
but
later, at
Bel-
by the
families of those
prison,
or in
official lists
Red
At
Cross.
gether
women,
civil
population to-
and
More than
77
from Shabatz
lists
The
alone.
of the Austrian
like
ically
this:
official
war-prisoner
The Austrian
it
was a pu-
and not a
officers said
war!
At
the mess
we heard
that
we must
travel
by night
the river
trenches.
So
companied us back
to Matitch's.
Much
arm
in
we went
lage street.
sour
the
vil-
my
there anything
you lack?"
Is
THE WAR
78
At
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
There we
dining-room.
saying farewell,
sat,
and dried
salt
beef to
make
us thirsty.
get was
"A
titch's health, at
We
he could
furiously embarrassed.
to
how
songs
all
uproarious
We
women was
sang American
Some one
applause.
which
ward.
fell
all
his
feet.
ten.
Of a sudden
"Pobratim!" he
"I
and we
my
blood-
"It
is
through mine
so!"
One by one we
thus,
Your arm
79
other's necks;
cheeks.
the table.
was done
It
and
to this
day we
At
length
drivers
we were
snapped
and we were
their whips,
off,
Farewell!
Ldku
As we
passed
armed
to shouts of
Noch!
"S Bogom!
Happy
night!"
figures
on horseback
fell in
behind the
Now we
till
first
the danger
mud;
the road.
The
no
No
slowly.
THE WAR
80
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
we rocked
Still
on.
broke the
first invasion,
Under a grassy
dawn.
silver
crowned
by
artillery
a hundred
fire,
ox-carts
were
wrapped
ting
around early
fires
that
faces red.
painted their
for Belgrade, a
we were
going.
and we
sun, hot
and
was awake.
ordered coffee.
We
Was
were ravenous.
We
made
for
it,
and
head.
"Eggs!" we
Johnson
dear
Thees
is
cried.
lazily
sairs!
is
81
threw up
Excuse me.
"My
his hands.
There
no eggs.
is
war!"
street,"
insisted,
we
"But
will give
you some."
and
silk trade.
It contained
destroyed by the
all
of
them had
every
playthings,
house was
linen, pic-'
furniture
to
They had
and
move
stabled
THE WAR
82
In private
bedrooms of
on the
in filth
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
every house.
treated
floor, carefully
covers.
It
fine houses.
was a
terrible thing
to see.
At the time
of the
first
invasion
many people
But
be safe.
We
thousand men,
women, and
children
were
one
war,
'the
army
as
it
This
is
it is
it
testi-
march.
We
83
forced at the
troops
Her
more than
from her
feet
for ten
done.
village of Lechnitza,
at the
heap.
At
and lying
in a separate
chil-
At Yvremovatz
cellar
people
fifty
and burned
alive.
ground
forty-two
villages
still
ran
riot
by the
through Shabatz
THE WAR
84
and
all
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
And
the region.
To
be perfectly
fair, let
it
me
and not the Austrian Germans, who had committed these atrocities
the
Hungarians, who
But
the
civilians.
Hungarians reverted
ancestors, the
Huns.
from Shabatz,
in
to their savage
When
they retreated
to-
macy
prisoners
in
battle,
shot
The
cold-
their
But
sight.
85
had been.
were no
In the coun-
and since
child,
wore
every
it,
civilian,
The
all.
war had no
In
this
now
lived,
camp-
enough
We
to eat.
through deserted
wandered
streets,
held,
northwest Serbia
all
from hundreds of
women
It
sun
had been
in the hot
fertile
A few miserable
was market-day.
in rags stood
kilo-
And
on the steps of
Hungarian bay-
THE WAR
86
He
onets.
IN
was
tall
homespun
his hat
dressed
in the dazzling
summer
cos-
headed Serbian
am
"I
fiddle
plum-trees.
me
given
who
and sang:
all
and broad-shouldered,
tume, and in
He
EASTERN EUROPE
fields
The
"When
new
the
war
is
finished
Shabatz," he said.
we
shall
make a
new."
They must be
rebuilt en-
VI
A NATION EXTERMINATED
T EXT morning we boarded
the train of
valley of the
carriage,
crammed
women and
they had
and on
destitute
fled,
foot,
fertile plain,
six
We
white
grass and
vated
fields
new
foliage,
fire.
looted,
Not an ox was
not a man.
between unculti-
We
All
and
seen,
its
streets
87
country
people mur-
passed through
this
little
and not a
towns
single
88
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
all their
possessions in
The
train
show
prefect
us the sights.
a rich
little
So we
visited
Prnjavor, once
tall,
now
At
who was
a pool of
track,
He
muddy water
pointed
down
into
"That
is
the grave of
wooden
my
crosses.
old father
and
them
for comitadyis."
stood, that
now was
burnt timbers.
"In
We
walked on
he went on,
A NATION EXTERMINATED
89
them
Prnjavor
of
all into
they
low
who
tried to escape.
pile of dirt
is
made
was
the rest
with ropes
it
and shot
This long,
The
their grave."
made
story
possibility,
it.
and
But
it
literally true.
women, and
old people,
all
children.
rains, cov-
was
in the air.
least
one
sinister
woman
many
filth
grave for
A.
dug up
to
was or had
place,
where
THE WAR
90
under
fifteen.
Two
dead-white
stand,
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
were cov-
woman
"I have
lost
there are
my
husband and
and
my
my
fit
my
father,
And we
the
and
sister
have nothing
gives
The
dishonest Socialist!"
This
woman and
all
a powerful zadrouga.
Two
long, one-story
it
The entrance
to
offices, stables,
and
made
A NATION EXTERMINATED
91
own plum brandy. Here lived three generations, the women with their husbands, the
its
men
children
their land
The
its
all their
in all,
who shared
property in common.
and burned; of
"They did
this
we walked back
rovitch as
are
rest.
happy
that
we paid
by beating them
Samou-
to the train.
"We
so badly in
December."
we found
murder of
all
92
THE WAR
blossoms
IN
we went;
EASTERN EUROPE
and the
mud
houses became
tiles,
ward plain
we were
trian
at Losnitza
again under
the
and
Aus-
hospital,
school.
which we
As the
vis-
Serbian
a sickening stench of
airlessness
came
The
closed.
sick
dirt, filthy
out.
mostly
ly shoulder to shoulder
floor.
tant.
Some
and
all
soldiers in the
wreck
lay packed
close-
on the
clothing
upon
disinfec-
rubbing
his hands.
A NATION EXTERMINATED
93
sick
."
men, jammed so
"Then we were
crowded."
At dusk we
yellow cheese-butter.
oxen knelt by
delicious
their carts,
and peasants
light
all in
From
and
fine;
We
singing.
woman
with
"Why
Why do
street?
my tables?
"We
could,
I have
and konidkr
all sorts
sit
at
We meekly obeyed.
THE WAR
94
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
"That's no reason
why you
can't drink!"
me on
the
back.
in!"
Inside
fiddle
cornet, while
an old
Bombardment
Belgrade
The Bombardment
"A dream had Madame
of Belgrade
Georgina,
this
And
a terrible darkness
Rolls south
upon Belgrade,
And
cross,
Wrecking the
villas
and
hotels
of
A NATION EXTERMINATED
95
And
"Then
in the night
And
faithful spouse,
Pachitch, Nicola
But
And
many things,
she began to
tell
her dream.
."
THE WAR
96
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
hundred
(Three
more,
lines
consisting
Over the sharp, crumpled house roofs westward the swollen cupola of a Greek church
rose black against the
warm
yellow sky.
And
thin crescent
moon
floated
up over
an
exile.
VII
RUSSIA'S
T
*
the end of
BACK DOOR
May
had cov-
its
Bucovina
it
stu-
In
We
decided to cross
bend of the
river,
and try
to strike the
From
Rumanian
hills to
railway,
the frontier.
it is
"You cannot
lie
said;
THE WAR
98
"the
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Rumanian custom-house
is
He
closed."
"However, I
am
automobile
Novo
Sielitza,
the Third
of mine
which
Army.
I often
visit
hospitable people.
is
Joyously we
He is a close friend
The Russians
him.
are
something alcoholic
you
the headquarters of
By
if
commandant
like.
of
my
in
if
you bring a
little
"
sallied forth
And
just as
piling
up
and we could
see
hills,
beyond the
little
village
smoking
ther
still,
and
RUSSIA'S
BACK DOOR
99
to the
and higher
behind
On
hills
hills
Russian Bessarabia.
town
order and
a wandering
dirt,
In
verse.
all
the
muddy
very re-
hill,
which
is
Czernowitz, and
But
Sielitza.
beyond vision
tween
hills,
old brass.
siren
itself
came
in view be-
We swooped
100
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
broad-brimmed hats to us
lifted their
down,
through
Over
all
muddy
river.
made a
fierce
it
fields.
we reached the
Russia,
river-
Against
set in a
barren
mudwhere
Holy Russia
ra-
tumble-down shed
Pruth roared
The
fire,
sombre,
But
it
the
was
magnificent,
little
Escorted by two
way down
to the river,
man
soldiers,
we picked our
where a flat-bottomed
full of water,
and a rope
fas-
RUSSIA'S
ness
to
side,
rent, the
We
Russia!
but as
BACK DOOR
we swung out
Rumanian
disappeared; for a
101
into the
brown
cur-
moment we were
adrift
on
the
crown of
his
it.
horse carriage.
to the
box
we were
whip cracking.
hail
and we followed.
off
He
leaped
... A
sudden guttural
soldier
Our
it
it
upside
down
illiterate.
"Koracho!
us on.
The
"PajaVst'!"
last
THE WAR
102
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
gloom
starless
at rest.
jiggled
army
right accordions
flatly,
To
the left
bright with
all
about
suddenly opened a
many
in
screaming,
fires.
meadow
at
their
High
ropes.
saddles,
In
swarthy
men
tween
little
knots at the
fires, flat-faced,
their kness
The twanging,
indolent sound of
One
stood upright
in the firelight,
hung by
"Turkmiene" explained
box.
silver
his side.
RUSSIA'S
BACK DOOR
103
the
in-
The
ghis
Attila.
GhenTheir
upon
the
Dragon Throne
in Peking.
One
on the West
and
ruins of Austrian
pouring down
we were among
then
Novo
is
the
tier.
Here
the gaping
windows of
war
roofless houses,
immense customs
fire.
The Russians
to think.
like
by a bursting
shell; light
and big-booted
sil-
Shadowy horsemen
THE WAR
104
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
hilts
in
of Cossack swords.
Gleaming white
linen
the
we were
flash of white
Russian Novo
paper
now
Here
there
road,
in
Sielitza.
we rocked through
a wide expanse of
muddy
At
tracks.
wooden
foot-bridges.
Old Jews
in
Side.
rest-
hands gesticulating
burlesque show
the
comedy Jew
filthy babies
lamplight, rows of
in
crawling in the
BACK DOOR
RUSSIA'S
105
and gos-
their babies
We swung into
lined
on
either side
stout,
officer
Captain
Vladimir Constanti-
Behind was a
fierce
bearded
bristling bald-headed
Sielitza.
man
with
a white
around
in
silk
kerchief
wound
tightly
forehead.
its
"Please
little
Please
The
had
THE WAR
106
PajaVst
!"
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Only French
"Entrez!" said the captain, with an elementary accent; then in just as amateurish Ger-
man:
"Kommen
Comment I Comment
bald-headed man roared.
"Voila
the
"It
is all
my
knows of French!"
brother
plained Madji, as
we
The
entered.
Voila 1"
terrific
ex-
fat face
girl of astonishing
exuberance.
Puffing
and shook
us,
The
"Alex-
She ran
vants.
off,
"Antonina Feodorovna!
samovarou!"
And
in a
moment
she
Prinissitie
was back
RUSSIA'S
new yellow
with a
new
BACK DOOR
107
Madji
Tres
joiie!
jolie" over
like
little
husband!" adding in a
jolie!
fierce
voice:
Tres jolie!"
He
we never
girl of
old
"My
"Tres
said "tres
was
"M011
mari!
As
at re.
did discover
.
And there
little
eyes of a
grown woman,
mystery, too.
Anyway,
like all
Russian
little
household remained a
it
Boxes of
At one end
cigarettes
sat
Alex-
108
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
At
shout-
the other
Comment
"Voilal
Tres
and
shuffled in
jolie I"
out, tak-
movar
on terms of perfect
Robinson explained
looked
exactly
Taras Bulba.
that time on
like
He
equality.
to the old
Gogol's
man
that he
Cossack hero,
was delighted.
And from
as
They
kissed
murmuring
their
names.
Most
of
them
all
were
It
disorganization
"
BACK DOOR
RUSSIA'S
A lieutenant broke
in:
He
109
the
had a bad
this
General Ivanov.
It
of
People say he
it.
the retreat
is
insane.
How-
and did
would
He
finish
him?
Ah, no!
friends in Petrograd
staff to
and now he
is
chief of
another general!"
had powerful
now
"It
Advance,
why,
then,
is
Adwe re-
like that.
If
retreat.
we
shall
advance
again."
"What do we
will the
care
war
how long
last?"
it
lasts?"
grin:
re-
"What
110
THE WAR
do we care
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
At
decided to dine.
table, while
contradictory orders.
plates of sardines,
tunny,
to
down with
sausage,
caviar,
pickles
set the
shirred
herrings,
and
eggs,
washed
plum
wines.
brandies,
platters of corn-
We were
twelve.
in rotation,
and
fol-
finished
over again.
"Ah," cried an
now!"
all
It
settled
Then
down
was midnight.
officer, "if
we
RUSSIA'S
"Is
it
111
"Except
big
BACK DOOR
cities
Kiev,
But they
expensive.
You
Odessa, Moscow.
You
can
are very
see,
still
get
it.
."
lieu-
we had heard
if
Denkmal.
"It was during the retreat from East Prussia,
after
Tannenberg," he
said,
a gentle smile
my
regiment was
at.
My
it
like
hundreds
all
it
over
Germany.
down and
take
an international
it.
'It
would cause
As
if
Well, so we stole
it
pulled
it
the
inci-
down
THE WAR
112
at night, stood
and covered
it
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
upright in a
field
furnace,
But we
it
We
got
as far
it
along the
'"Who
line,
feet
Oh,
'In the
if
morning
I'll
find
I have to court-martial
must be abandoned
It
here
"Of
cause
course, he
had a right
we were using
four
to be angry, be-
army
horses to pull
and
set
him up
in a field,
and had a
.
bottles
behold, he
And
on him.
was gone
fantry regiment.
next day,
lo
stolen by a Siberian
.
Who
and
in-
knoAvs where
BACK DOOR
RUSSIA'S
he
is
now?" he mused.
113
"Perhaps retreating
At
Atamanski Cossacks,
was saying:
his
"You have
He
sack sword?"
is
showed us
They
sidelong stroke
Beautiful!
whiz
But they
his
It cuts a
love to
own.
"It
slash with a
man
kill.
in half
When
pris-
'Agal
their colonel:
It
oners!'"
coming,
"You
shall
go where you
To-morrow we
please,
my
friends.
eat
and drink
"
friends, to talk of
going away!"
visit
114
THE WAR
"Tres
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
jolie!" bellowed
to speak French,
and Chinese!
guages
It
German, Spanish,
o'clock in the
morning; we
out.
Italian,
"
were worn
"You
you have taught me
Taras Bulba.
a ridiculous
way
"To
sieep
."
VIII
dish blessings
the
shrill
came out of
sound of Yid-
his hands.
is
upon which
we discovered wheels,
to a
tem-
an incredibly
On
closer inspec-
fastened to arbitrary
and
other.
mujik to these
We
away
aniif
he
"B-r-r-r-r!"
116
THE WAR
pressed
upon
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
we were
to be
he could out of
us.
shouting hoarsely:
The
"Ugh!
by
rimentally
Augh!"
Eeagh!
moved expe-
and we were
off!
we
rattled,
upon and
Now we
fields
were
On
the
left,
cases of ammunition.
in Bucovina.
sol-
low
flatly
Kumania;
country.
The
driver
slumped
117
and we crawled
Zeus hidden
"Hey!"
a
leg,
in a
in his cloud.
We
upon
beat
his back.
"Shake
Dave!"
He turned upon us
like
with the
of bread.
in
hair,
and
his
an appalling, familiar
We
christened
him immediately
waving the
The
"Aich!
string.
Augh!"
broke into a
shuffle
and
we moved
And
topping a steep
hill
Novo
Sie-
crowned with
118
THE WAR
a straggling thatched
of the batteries.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
village,
They
of an immense rolling
in the fields dribbled
tervals of half a
we came
in sight
At
in-
A twanging drone
life.
hills
of smoke unfolding.
The
village
through
brown
soldiers,
piciously.
flag,
who eyed
stream of wounded
some
leaning on their
and
legs.
The road
slanted
down
until
we were
close
119
Gun
battle.
raw
pit,
gun
after
home and
firer
from
methodically
caissons;
it
aeroplanes.
the
snapped
breech
jerked
the
lanyard
furious
haze
in
lordly
syncopation.
In the very
field
in front
the river.
We
up
of
the wind.
Its crest
in great
curved
rolled
fields
waves before
men swarmed
over
new
THE WAR
120
IN
wire tangles.
come.
We
tillery,
the ar-
Here
hill.
EASTERN EUROPE
the earth
mounted
in magnificent
and yellow
wind.
fields that
Through
valleys
whose
and copses
Far
to the west
land
Tree-smothered
villages
beautifully
spotless
Many
marks of wanton
no
battle here
out,
pillage
all
espe-
They bore
doors beaten
and lying
lived.
fire
were
in,
windows torn
man
121
come
here.
we went
by.
gaunt
and kissed
my hand when
of chocolate.
Along
mark
nated.
wooden
And
crosses, as in
Mexico,
assassi-
and the
far-rolling plains of
of
Bucovina
Turcomans
their
fires
moved among
northern
field,
i-
THE WAR
122
Beyond
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
enemy's trenches
tains in the west
rich land
come
to rest.
Where
horses of
side.
final-
It
cir-
by a grace-
Turcoman
officers
were stabled
in-
At any cross-roads we
litza, fifteen
Worse,
little
ing.
he
his
porous
name
Sie-
memory
of our destina-
it.
Every
"Zalezchik!"
fell to
cries.
Novo
so far abroad.
tion,
at
we shouted
in chorus,
and
He
pulled
up sometimes,
made
until
signs for
we
him
Ivan.
"Which
123
is
the
"
road to
"The road
Ivan scratched
man.
his head.
to go?"
"All,
At
we bawled
yes, Zalezchik!"
noon,
we zigzagged up a
steep
mountain
it,
"Eto Pruth?
Is that the
Pruth?"
I nodded.
nowitz
S%ill
his
.
pontoon.
.
Czer-
!"
THE WAR
124
EASTERN EUROPE
the mountain.
forest,
IN
away
ma
altogether,
Steeper and
and suddenly
fell
fields,
sweeping grandly
like the
ground
swell,
rib-
up,
drawn each
who pushed,
soldiers
shouting in unison
hill
side,
straining horses
effort.
men
still
dress changed;
wore white
some wore
tall
round caps of
crosses
decked with
all
to wear.
tall
125
The Slavonic
Catholic crucifixes,
mer.
Polish
nian
began to replace
Granges
it.
all
under one
It
was
The
fields
seen
except the
women and
sunken
faces.
-only
In the
fields
among
in,
and
the grow-
and rusty
road gigantic
new
the left
126
THE WAR
tillery positions
Thousands of
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
were building
soldiers
in frantic haste.
spades.
Wagons
Near Zastevna, we
in
a long
file
head baskets.
here,
Why
IX
ZALEZCHIK THE TERRIBLE
TT
a
side of Zastevna,
where
by two
Don
and stumbled
At
Two
crutches.
down
and
in the shade.
dark-faced
beasts.
groaned.
He
The Cos-
128
THE WAR
IN
waved
sacks goodnaturedly
talk with them,, and
EASTERN EUROPE
They snatched
of cigarettes.
permission to
us,
at
all
who
pro-
duced a handsome case crammed with goldtipped cigarettes, declined ours frigidly, and
"He
is
the
off at last,
his
at his
this
sulky-looking person
arm-band.
The
his shoulders.
But one
over, scowling
He
kicked the
of the Cossacks
and shaking
Red
Cross
his
man
came
head at me.
with a look of
disgust,
129
to the other.
Muttering
man fumbled
angrily in
his case,
across.
were represented:
thirty-five races
Tcheks,
One
word
absolutely not a
their
knew a
single a
Hungarian, or Polish.
Among
the Austrians
from Pola.
the Magyars,
up
and
to them.
into sharply
Joseph's
army
As
the group
a sample of Franz
was most
illumi-
nating.
in a night attack
along
THE WAR
130
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
"When we
one man.
enthusias-
Cossack guards.
all
and
see that he
us rest often.
is
.
"The Cossacks
broke
in;
comfortable.
And
they
let
."
we had
cavalry like
them!"
if
plied that
seemed
like
it,
in.
We
re-
and suddenly he
How
long can
want
is
this
awful war
can we do?
last?
we
beaten
All
we
We
are
England,
We
against us.
honor now
go on?"
is
And
131
down a
rattling
cliffs.
stream
plunged down beside the road, turning a hundred water-wheels whose mills lay shattered
by
cliff
we
there clearing
away
new works.
We
at
work up
and
cables.
its
tangle of dynamited
Here
the river
cliffs
made a
a hundred
THE WAR
132
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
As we
crossed,
their horses
and splashing,
their
fifteen days,
its
pop-
was
falling
place,
when we drove
a mob of
and
women
tilted shacks,
Ivan demanded a
all
where
soldiers.
the corners.
across
enemy. Night
tall houses.
man
to the
it
hotel,
tall
but the
crumbling
that remained.
Where
boldly
could
we
"Something
to eat?
There
is
not enough
this
town
to feed
my
133
wife and
chil-
dren."
An
we could
place
feel
it
in the air.
was
It
in
way
of our carriage,
It got dark,
An
"Apteka"
what
and we
to do.
light inside.
asked suspiciously^
peering at me.
"An
American."
"There
denly.
to eat.
here
the
is
"There
they
is
in
women and
pointed west.
children
"There
is
out
there."
no place here
He
"
THE WAR
134
"Then," I
His face
You
Where can
us.
my
Herr?
commandant
swered.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
"You
noble
told,
"
will not
The entry
I find him?"
me
inso-
public shop.
I don't
here.
It's
know
I didn't ask
re-
you to come
For, after
you."
all,
we
a two-rouble piece,
away
in his pocket
And
we
left
him
sitting
on
in the
when we
quarters, he
same
position,
middle
When we
still
there,
and an hour
it
was
quite dark.
mind?
name
the
135
Novo
of
his
Sielitza,
home
per-
We
colonel
and
gossip
in
Among
fragmentary
intensely
and
German.
young Finnish
major with a
Li
Hung
America would go
"What can we do
to war.
for you?"
asked the
colonel.
if
on.
"That, I
he regretted.
the general
"But
if
you
commanding
will
this
go to Tarnopol,
army
will surely
136
THE WAR
IN
and I
shall be
A train
myself.
EASTERN EUROPE
Then you must return
glad to accompany you
at eleven."
Could he give us any idea what was happening along the front?
"With
He
"Now
we have
spread them
up from
column that
Over
the Pruth.
is
here, near
we have
stream at
this point
I remarked that
German
"
maps seemed
those
to be
or Austrian maps.
"Oh, yes," he
of the
all
this little
replied.
or Galicia.
We
"At
the beginning
Bucovina
at all of
didn't even
know
the lay of
."
.
X
BEHIND THE RUSSIAN RETREAT
stiff
and cramped
car,
and
flat
nine hours.
The
inclines,
Our
ful
down long
making
and
miles.
the cheer-
gether.
And from
of troops behind
to-
At
little
stations
137
where the
flat-faced,
138
women
stared
officers
cratically
way-station
officer of
up
high rank,
who had an
tea.
An
orderly, set
ment
to ours.
From
bravery
it
of Vladimir.
from one of
Czar for
The
orderly, probably a
"Ivan Ivanovitch."
him
mujik
familiarly
French
We got to
beat
many
"Nevertheless,
it
is
impossible
times.
the Japanese
War.
139
I served in
tell
you
They
to tell them.
'We
are not
'Why
mujiks.
should
we
may
fight
them?'
"And
managed.
half starved
on
an hour's
battle without
with to-day.
we
rest.
on the ground.
there
And
...
there
into
was
war
in a
It
Mukden
drunken sleep
was an unpopular
peasants."
"And
is
there patriotism
now?"
140
Germans.
see,
this
many men,
ma-
driving
Germans
the
out of work.
German
Then
landlords
own
the
all
.
soil,
too,
and the
Wherever
in
mans, we
tell
them
these things.
know why
Oh,
they are
fighting!"
"So
Germans they
by beating the
pression?"
He nodded good-humoredly.
I both had the same thought:
Robinson and
if
the peasants
141
sight
Late
in the
perial
"Sanitary
Train,
Feodorovna."
"Come
baggage
Ours
will
"We
trains.
into
tition.
folded
up
against
with dirty pots and pans; trunks, a tin washbasin on a box fastened to the wall, and clothes
suspended from
nails,
gave
it
the look of a
ship's forecastle.
In one compartment
minor
officers,
and
sat
two middle-aged
arettes,
THE WAR
142
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
The
the
girl
windows were
German and
spoke
woman was
closed.
little
French
tary lieutenant her father, and the second capSince the begin-
Kiev
to the front,
wounded.
her,
father-in-law
Judge
in the
is
"Have you
And my uncle's
German
it
fuss
and blew
much
aged to get us
winter a
so
"Near Warsaw
last
shell struck
there
we were under
to pieces
And
We're bound
Tea and
cigarettes
for Vilna
In two days
143
now
we'll
."
and we
sat
for
all
nomadic Russian
tribes.
From
running
tok, hurtling a
Officers
train.
Engines whistled
their swords.
bugles blared
cars.
Some
calling the
hesitated
flat
of
hysterically,
men back
to their
Around
boiling, yelling
mob.
faucets.
Hundreds
THE WAR
144
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
of peasant refugees
Poles,
squatted
Hungarians
Moldavians, and
among
their
bundles and rolls of bedding; for as they retreated the Russians were clearing the country
and
crops.
hands
futile
The
in the centre of a
An
us,
Staff!
He made
a half -motion
and
on.
tered Tarnopol.
"Na
flourishing passes
lutely, bellowing
we went
bawling crowd
all
waved
armed sentry
with his
station-master
Along
"To
the
Tarnopol was a
man
buildings,
and sudden
modern Ger-
vistas of
narrow
BLIND FOR
LIFE.
(KOVEL.)
145
hundreds of shops,
all
in
long
and
better off
less
As everywhere
Sielitza.
servile
in Gali-
"kosher,"
boot-leather,
"Polak";
ate,
it filled
the
air,
we
what
and
call
we
street
we met
a column
Less
rifles.
the heavy,
bearded
swinging
giants of
men
arms
with dull,
Row
The
after
earth
row of
THE WAR
146
ward unknown
sible to
them.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
incompre-
they sang*
Hebrew
psalm.
took him up
and then
like a
sergeant
first
dammed-up
river
like
in a rising
organs thunder-
ing:
"For the
For the
And
last time I
last time
am
my
friends
And
also will
Whom
brethren,
weep my sweetheart,
swear that
and
my
She whom
They
mother and
For
rose
my
Will weep
I will love
to
many
go with
years.
to the church.
!"
we rode between
Now
listlessly
Soldiers
wounded men on
crowded the
crutches, old
streets
Landwehr
vet-
erans, regulars,
147
to every civilian;
may
many
On
menacing
As we
drove by
and puttees
about us
but
away.
"Stowi!" growled the guard before Staff
headquarters, lowering his bayonet.
"Stop!
Shto takoi?"
We
wanted an
officer
French or German.
148
THE WAR
old
peasant
"dumb,"
word
the
for
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
for
first
Germans
Germans
meaning
in
Russia
"We
ered to
are Americans."
listen.
ning
man
with a cun-
smile.
tell
me
At
this
they
learned soldier,
all
who nodded.
An
officer
ap-
peared, looked us
and asked us
in
We
severely,
explained.
He
disappeared.
bustled out
Polish,
now and
too, for
It
was evidently
he walked vaguely up
at his beard.
Finally he
and motioned us
tered a large
room
to follow him.
We en-
was a stage
at one
men
149
end hung
About
thirty
in undress
la-
One was
new invention,
them
to
fire
stern questions
in
rapid
French.
do-
ing
our
story.
Galicia!" he cried
"But no
in astonishment.
We
He seemed at a loss.
we were
there.
THE WAR
150
"What
is
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
tainly.
of the
certain
American
citizens in Galicia
at the
He
ran
his
at
Or,
of names.
why
doesn't
is
to
keep
go
not possible!"
now?"
"No.
The second
line
the
second line?"
is
advance.
indifferently.
"They
it
citi-
grinned.
German
"It
does,
That
said,
first line
German
We
list
home?
"Ah," I
He
if it
Kalusz?
Strij?
on the
the
zenship?
them
down
"Bah!
"Why
eye
And
"The gen-
151
"Good
my
day,
voice.
"Good day
to
and
sat
down again
to
their work.
man under
and
He
middle
saluted us
when
to
go to the front?"
derstand
he said,
to get here
for
nopol at
all.
fectly satisfactory.
But
I cannot permit
had better go
to
you
You
it.
Lemberg and
Lvov
see
...
I will
may
THE WAR
152
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
He
detailed a
young
we
for
sub-officer
us,
who spoke
of the
Staff,
and dine
the
at
mess.
We
was
full of troops
Tarnopol
still
more,
men had
Long
arms.
Few
wagon-trains
filed
but
we saw no ammunition.
disaster,
and
"Even
rifles
or ammunition.
My
third of
my men
in
two
a reserve trench.
were in the
first
rifles.
153
trench,
rifles
their
rifles
of those
who were
."
As we walked
German
made up
spies
their
us to the Prefecture.
to do with us, so
to the
Staff,
speaking
officer set
away
in great bewilderment
their orders
they did
knout.
so,
At
arrested by
were
and when
regular intervals
new
all
sets of soldiers,
day we were
and the same
officer,
shaking his
154
fist
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
"Fools
I'll
we
when they
Late
in the afternoon
we
soldier
let
and took us up
between their
in
to a
major
his
eyes slowly
in spectacles
who
He
swered.
He
peered
suspiciously
over
his
glasses.
"Where
I said that
we had
left
them
at the hotel.
Staff," said I.
he
"Then
meditated.
155
the
to
Police."
"What
is
We've already
"Hum!"
It
the subject.
was puzzling,
"You
changed
so he
are correspondents?
In
"We
"And how
is it
in Serbia?"
"What
He
sickness?"
"Really!" he
weeks."
"You
nehm.
No
left;
Very happy
have
."
"Well, gen-
sehr
ange-
our
to
officer
Lemberg
THE WAR
156
ter,
who
called
IN
up
EASTERN EUROPE
so
who
admin-
that everything
might leave
in five
minutes and
to-morrow morning.
it
was
it
might leave
So we plunged again
into
Long files
sat
down
to wait.
wounded
made
ductors
A fat colonel
drawn up
officers in
shouted.
green trousers,
15T
and laced
generals
of
degrees
various
and
who
of
generality,
near-sighted
officers,
epileptic officers.
Minor
officials
of the
Al-
number and
vari-
and
Seven hours
later
we boarded
into a
gold-
And every
else.
compartment with
THE WAR
158
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
We
bureaucrats.
"Vodka!"
said
"You may be
one.
sure
money
up
the
all
lost in
you
It
is
know, the
but
the
war we
shall
They cannot
if
it."
I said no.
"That
Every-
stop
do at
after
it
is
wouldn't
fight."
all
en-
war?"
is
a very
silly
person.
If you asked
him
He
to
goes
killed.
to go, he
!"
I wanted to
know whether
was
there
any-
The
first
Dumathey
can't
man
159
nodded.
Duma
members
are
in prison
for
been shot.
circulated
it
We
go
."
forty-five miles.
trains
silent
Again
miles
soldiers.
richly
alive
station;
half-armed regiment slouched along the platform, waiting for their trains trains of cavalry
;
and
Every-
THE WAR
160
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
all
side-
men
didn't come.
clear track.
of vast forces
on a grand
How
from the
different
faultless
in northern
German
France
There, too,
millions of
men,
to another,
the
Germans had
new
built
is
not,
four-track lines
made
In German France
cities,
trains
over bridges
were never
late.
v.
XI
LEMBERG BEFORE THE GERMANS CAME
THE
immense
Lvov
in Polish
running and
filthy floor,
Lemberg
or
on the
vaguely about.
us,
at
station
No
places.
We
palaces
once
proudest nobility.
gloomy walls of
Roman and
Floren-
In
squares
little
among
the
high, thin
and
rich rose-windows.
shops,
buildings bulked
restaurants
roofs, spires of
city.
and
cafes,
wide
Shabby Jewish
161
'162
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
tered
with
lit-
filth
their houses
we had
always
Soldiers
shuffling
in
liest
walks.
soldiers
side-
Whole
in
streets
Never
in
'
feet
by
thirty, four-
We breakfasted,
lost in the
wastes
pass read, "The bearers must report immediately to the Chancellory of the governor-
general of Galicia,"
to the
local
with
A
of
163
all its
clumsy ineffectualness.
all sorts
anteroom.
attentively
it
office,
He
a desk.
upside
He paid no further
shoulders.
it
it
where an
attention to us.
officer sat
writing at
sweetly.
"Ya nisnayo"
about
We
know nothing
"I
said he.
it."
to find one.
man.
We
had ordered us
down a
passage.
to
go the
front.
This way."
We
He motioned
THE WAR
164
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
time,
him.
We
marked
door
we
Governor-General," which
"Starr" of the
we wanted
to
German.
Verchovsky,
votre
service"
"and I
He
will
Four
handed me the
"Where
is
Colonel Verchovsky?"
we
de-
manded.
"Ne poniemayo!"
he muttered.
"I don't
understand!"
I went to the door and sent the orderly to
find the colonel;
and
in a
still
there.
165
ment.
The
truth
is
that
we
But
way
in our cards,
into a
room
to the governor's.
We
sent
smartly dressed
officers
circle,
was
telling
countess
in a hussar uni-
whom
gentle-faced, bearded
huge
silver
crucifix
neck-chain, paced
dangling from a
silver
in
arm
THE WAR
166
rations.
from
IN
seemed
Nothing
this easy,
EASTERN EUROPE
farther
pleasant-mannered company
than war.
shining teeth
"I'm Troubetskoi,"
is
in
English.
"How
It
he
said
Lemberg!"
staff.
repress a grin.
"Americans!
of regulations
when Americans
don't understand
his lips to
are about?
I was
here, or
We
"Ah yes,"
He
one.
.
said he.
"That
is
New
York.
the international
do for you?"
"We
want
to
go
Here he
to the front."
"At
least
Przsemysl
16T
let
we
us
"
this
morning.
eight
at
o'clock!"
We
soon.
"Do you
it
would
fall so
Lem-
berg?"
We
"Neither are
now
in
an uninter-
of any strategic
Then
Would we come
in the
morning?
listening,
now asked
we were from.
"I have been in America for sixteen years,"
he
said, smiling.
"For
eight years I
was
priest
THE WAR
168
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
of the
Now
New York.
yonder."
As we emerged on
Just in front of
During the
To my
village
in:
girl,
With
soldiers,
'Give
me some water
When
And
kissed me.
Long
And
to drink.'
my dreams.
Many years after, when I was a widow
And had married off my four daughters,
To my village came an old general;
And he was broken and wounded with many wounds.
He groaned. When I looked at him my heart beat fast
All night he was in
And
And
so, as
all
169
many
night in
in his mustache.
my
Now through
dreams
all
soldiers singing.
I see
him.
."
.
little rise.
buildings
melody.
the
clashing
hummed
with deep
The paradox
of
a beaten army which gathers strength, a retreating host whose very withdrawal
is
fatal
to the conquerors.
question, in a low
'
'
THE WAR
170
money?"
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
For already
it
was rumored
in the
"But
you permission
you must apply
he
is
simply a
For
civil official,
you know.
we
that
And
shall be
will
of you."
We
had.
Either you
may
pro-
laievitch
in Poland, which
is
171
the headquarters
southwestern front.
make
will be
more
successful
if
you
is
of the same
opinion.
At midnight we
train for Cholm,
sight,
an
officer
bound
would share
his.
His
in
if
we
painting
Caucasus.
we Georgians
soldiers in the
are
army," said
by
he.
THE WAR
172
"Oh
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
or the winter
back
But
Next winter
after."
it
"We
doesn't
we'll
come
XII
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
HOLM
line
is
is
no
air-
direct
We
miles.
young
lieutenant
who
The
dow
tinental peoples a
all
air.
night,
but
window
by the
was
railroad police.
White
Russia.
subdued at dawn
finally
.
THE WAR
174
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
and pine
human
being, the
Sometimes a gap
forest
in the
Wretched
villages
now
closed
wood-
miserably
beside
muddy,
rutted
Great-shouldered
the fields,
mically abreast
ers'
in
strokes rhyth-
There
joists
and
we
Yet not
for
an
in-
The towns
CHOLM.
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
were
all full
And
as
175
we paused on
windows under
had
its
We
their bandages.
military hospital.
changed trains
at
Every
village
after us in Tarnopol,
official business.
now
"I want
As we went
meaning of
"That means I
from compulsory
am
a volunteer
service.
exempt
We
guage.
gave up
.
all
THE WAR
176
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
It
town
was Russian
streets half
in
paved
painted
swarming uniforms
bright
of
its
green,
scroll-saw
and
the
minor officialdom.
But
of outrageous shape.
Jewish.
The
street
bell-top hats
the rest
was
evil-
all
flies
multitude of
and
little
both sides a
and down
On
buzzed about.
Clouds of
made
one could
a crazy-quilt
see.
up
The greasy
way.
Too many
shops, too
many
cab-drivers,
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
barbers, tailors, herded into this
narrow world
177
live in
Rus-
cities,
stay.
indeed.
How
different these
poorest, meanest
Jews
in Galician cities.
Here
Cringing
men
]ong coats
noticed the
Jews
it
was
little
at
Rovno
that
we
first
faces, girls
prematurely aged
Avith bitter
work
and eternal humiliation, grown women wrinkled and bent, in wigs and slovenly mother
hubbards.
And
let
it
at them,
who
Gentiles pass.
all,
a Russian
178
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
and candle-
their
what
success ?
Here
in
and
the Russians
With
religion.
own
inces-
customs,
one
body
Miroshnikov
Jewish bar
Russia.
An
came
said, as
that
Of
true
is
we drank hvass
all
Jews were
what
in a little
traitors to
officer
in.
It
in the
He
on the train
bowed
to us,
and
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
who
"The
179
dirty Jews!
We
it
was not
we appealed
Bolatov,
to
pompous
whom we had
all
Among
colonel,
others
named
encountered several
He
was
and dye on
his ferocious
mustache.
his
chest
We never
Mirosh-
life.
The
portrait
was an outrageous
180
THE WAR
flattery.
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
He
perfect satisfaction.
waved
with
it
to the police.
"They
loft.
on the benches of a
knew
when
it
would get
there.
All afternoon we
vast wheat-fields
edged with a
like a
yellow
archipelagoes
of
Half smothered
cheerful thatched
in
and
villages.
mighty blooming
locusts
were wooden stations where hospitable samovars steamed, and slow-moving heavy-faced
the
And
inundated the
late in the
flat
light,
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
and
181
all
vividly luminous,
we
of Cholm, with
its
cluster of shining
Greek
green foliage.
horrible
story.
ment
in Tilsit
to
"Let me
you a
Warsaw
criticising the
when
began, and
hurry to Poland.
the
we
German
We did
it
Well, from
Tilsit to the
is
a hundred
drive on
wrong
regi-
my
tell
By
train
we
travelled
it
us.
fallen.
was very
made
When we
We
ar-
arrived
got in at night
THE WAR
182
train
ing.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
for Teresa,
little
smashed by a
way
we detrained
shell;
in the rain
fight-
marched
hours to Teresa.
"At
eight o'clock
we reached
commanded by General
Manchuria,,
the headquar-
Our men's
frightful mistakes in
feet
were in
terrible
two days.
Half an hour
after
at all
we
in the
his chief of
staff.
"
surlily.
Send them
my men
can-
rest
and
food.
For
five
days
'But
'
AN OPTIMISTIC PILGRIMAGE
" 'Never
don't
mind
!'
"We
was
it
We coaxed,
to bed.
trenches.
'I
March!'
ble to hear
183
off to the
terri-
sleep
forward
went
in at ten in the
fire all
morning and
day
so
heavy
sleep.
bombarded
us.
eat.
The men
The
reeled as
if
artillery
they were
went
officers,
were shooting.
The
like
swords.
...
member what
followed at
all
but we were
and four
nights.
in
Once a
THE WAR
184
night
cook-wagons
the
At
bread.
IN EASTERN EUROPE
soup
and
Ger-
mans attacked
brought
heads.
though we were
Out
out of our
"Finally on the
us.
all
fifth
of eight thousand
"But
all
the time
we were
it
was that
What on
XIII
HOEVER
*
know
locomotives
The
train takes
its
smooth-
belching
sweet-smelling
birch
restaurants.
At
There are no
no fixed
Often on a jour-
at
lasting
186
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
clothes
from the
porter,
One man
rents bed-
and disrobes
in full
com-
his
chal
and the
rest sit
and endlessly
up drinking
arguing.'
One
stifles
eternal
Windows
are
in thick cigarette
get-
The Russians
In Petrograd I have
morning
to be
had
Outside the windows of the train the amazing country flows by,
flat as
it,
At
and sombre.
terious
187
its
rough-coated horse
bell,
with hair.
Hours apart
are
little
thatched
church, with
its
the
easily the
village.
closed
Wooden
sidewalks on
stilts,
mense
piles of
now
in the
unpaved
mud, im-
town
Im-
gine
mense
women
around
their hair
giants of
and
men
with
in
gay-colored
and dazzling
teeth,
booted
kerchiefs
Along
and stovepipe
188
THE WAR
policemen
much
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
scarlet revolver
blouses,
and swords.
cords,
by
of thousands.
Then great
the tens
break-
fields
wheat
The Tsar
I think.
of the government; he
government
mands no
itself
them
to
is
the
it.
is
bureaucracy
loyalty
The
a divinity.
com-
it
is
like
As
and
And
hymn
is
his hat
they do
it is
not
remove
if
know what
when
it
it is
As
a people,
they
by conquest
in
fact,
is
why
enemy
on Russian
set foot
and
189
But once
soil,
let
and the
in 1915.
is
why
they
on defense.
the
mighty
is
rivers,
the
tremendous
.officer
partment, and
the
window
Once
THE WAR
190
the
is
down
little
"Russia
cheeks.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
his
is
again.
Another time
it
was a middle-aged
close,
civilian
and wide,
star-
sion of a mystic.
"We
Russians do not
are," he said.
so
many
"We
know how
We
much
riches
of one, Mr.
do not
we
we
millions of people to
with.
great
realize
have.
communicate
how much
Why,
land,
I can
tell
bow
you
estates are
German
how many
King.
And
no Russian
realizes
know
Yet
only thirty-nine.
this vast chaotic
..."
agglomeration of bar-
means of
ideal,
power.
the
it
life
it
invades
Even
Rumania,
Galicia,
the English,
and under
way
all
who
usually cling
of living in
conditions, are
all
it
it
is
coun-
overpow-
way
own
stubbornly to their
tries
its
East Prussia
it.
by
stop
191
men
Mos-
And
because
of
hilarating,
art the
life.
freest,
Russian
drink are to
me
the best,
They have a
fits
them.
sense of space
of a great empire
but we
live as if this
were
THE WAR
IN
a crowded island
like
192
EASTERN EUROPE
England, where our
Our
came from.
lization
and our
congested.
cities
narrow
streets are
We
civi-
live in
houses
cell,
Russia
is
people
live as if
self-centred
and narrowly
little
private.
Petrograd some
they
knew
streets
were one.
it
are
In
a quarter-mile
mile.
Houses
each other at
Food and
tea
all
to.
There are
ventional
ing love.
way
is
no con-
of murdering a man, or of
To most
mak-
is
193
not restrained by the traditions and conventions that rule the social conduct of the rest
of the world.
This
is
cities
but
well.
to tell time
the earth, so
by the
clock.
much a part
He
of
it,
is
so close to
that machine-
and
is
when he has
We
him
household;
is
to live a regular
saw something of
samovars
life
in
perpetually
to
com-
risen above
stars.
cities
he
no fur-
life.
a Russian
steaming,
and fresh
tea-leaves,
In and
194
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
always
There was
comparative strangers.
tea,
little
groups
roariously,
players.
always
parties
little
of
card-
got hungry
meal going
on.
Some went
night
it
Day and
and dawn.
to bed,
For
three
except
in the
Many
interesting
among them an
and did
old
Jew
to us that he
had
had appeared,
confiscated
upon pub-
195
fifth.
lication
He
politics in
a loud
to look
voice,
there were
if
police listening.
word
any
in jail once
"socialism."
Before
he began to talk he would take us into a corner and in a whisper explain that when he
And
down
the room,
and shouting
of de-
all sorts
structive doctrines.
For
the Russia of
melodrama and
member
of the
still exists.
I re-
They
man
half -blind, a
girl
Jew
or so,
with a baby.
196
THE WAR
"Where
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
ductor.
"Siberia," he whispered out of the corner
of his mouth.
"What have
they done?"
what happens
to you!"
German
If you spoke
if
you were
was
Siberia.
I have
it
on very good
was German.
And from
In
that
of.
living in
German
gave a dinner
man
colony of
in the city's
For
Moscow
most fashionable
November, 1914,
hotel during
197
at
which Ger-
German
done about
this
"Hoch
der
air.
all
prominent
German
which would
revenues.
have
Quantities of
man
mob
houses, shops,
started out to
and
hotels.
wreck Ger-
After the
first
You
"Down
Before the
store in
riot
ended
al-
THE WAR
198
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
sians,
canal.
of
They
the situation.
valets
down
whatever
to
laces
.
advantage of
and
silks
upper
the
riot,
and
and take
As
a consequence of
this patriotic
How
the
Germans were
from Moscow,
police let
it
in detention
privately be
there
was a means.
camps?
known
In Moscow, they
own
No.
that if
to leave Russia,
would go
removed
is
Russian methods.
The
finally
office.
said, it
to get a pass-
country; but
if
he
199
Hundreds of Germans
be allowed to leave.
and
They
Perm.
distinct
and
to
present,
who
enough
to send
you
of
there.
Russian
to supervise
act as concierges at
all
force.
particularly,
is
still
government detective
sets
main job
their
are
members
In times
mere
of the
like the
suspicion
away
to Siberia.
is
you
XIV
PETROGRAD AND MOSCOW
Ik
/TOST
.It
travellers speak of
European
as
as the
an imitation of other
But
capitals.
Moscow
to
me Petrograd
with
streets,
The great
stone
hands of innumerable
by the
serfs chained in a
will of a tyrant,
swamp
now
hundred and
fifty
years
feverish
ago.
marsh a
And
lead, the
there,
most deso-
201
found
his capital.
and
disease
in
the
building of
Petrograd.
Nine times the court nobles themselves conspired to wreck the hated city and force the
court to return to
set fire to
them
them
it,
Moscow;
to build.
had forced
Moscow
as capital,
and
it
is
artificially
kept up.
move
vast
feet
cut
in the
gloom of ancient
down
flat,
deserted rivers
202
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
And
into the
multitudes
interminable
tide,
of them.
under the
slipping
barracks,
miserable
restless,
frowning
dark water
streets,
Neva along
and
float
that splendid
those
fantastic
cupolas
gigantic monuments.
In the immense
silent
squares
and wide
millions or
two
Only on summer
amusement parks,
among
merry-go-rounds, and cafes, hundreds of thousands of people, in great masses and currents
of shouting, laughing, singing humanity,
move
aimlessly to and fro, with a feeling of uncontrollable force like the sea.
lution,
Or
in time of revo-
when
untimed
their
from wall
streets
203
to wall,
feet,
spon-
On
at the
Our Lady
of
corner of the
off,
faces ex-
hymns.
and
Over
their heads
swam
the jewelled
by bareheaded,
ant
all
women walked
Men
and pulling each other; and every few minutes the priests lowered
204
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
And
moved slowly on
all
the
in that
wa-
And
all
Lady
Our
and singing.
With Russians
alive.
the
On
religion
is
extraordinarily
incessantly,
when
especially
passing
the
lift
and shoulders
whenever they
open
all
see
breast,
an ikon.
their hats
fashionable
crowds that
shrines there
is
jam
205
the ikonostas.
seem to be a tem-
mean, vicious
The
life.
faces,
priests
and monks
have often
in the great
of
and unrestrained
rich
fatly
lives
altar-screens
ecclesiastics
all
and builds
powerful
its
golden
To
is
also
mobs
have ikons.
thief
The
The
revolu-
head of their
that shoot
them down
an ikon hangs
in every hotel
and railway-station.
room, and
206
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
them
Jews and
the Arabs,
men and
self-
Even
Russian
At
night
for
it
was June
At
the
nine o'clock
summer evenings
at
sun sank
was
it
home
as
at half
moved
If you happened to
again.
night
it
was impossible
night or day
when
wake up
it
rose
at
mid-
to tell whether
it
was
Outside
our
window
in
sitting
St.
Isaac's
on the benches
207
Sometimes we drove.
cried,
"Istvosschik
"
twenty or thirty
dividuals
little
padded under
appear monstrously
us,
they screamed
a municipal
fat.
There was
and a copy of
it
driver's seat;
on
it.
And
man's part.
We
minable twilight.
dense
little
braying of an accordion.
In
St. Isaac's
Square
THE WAR
208
the
new
recruits
through their
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
drill,
boots,
resounding great
traditional regimental
"Good morning, my
flat voice.
"Good morning
to
your Generalship!"
"Happy
to have
Generalship
bel-
in unison.
my
children!"
!"
in the
Isaac's Ca-
St.
bows, knees,
and
feet,
little bells
the great
them
thirty-five of
all
el-
time:
Teeng
Tong
Teeng-ting-a-tang-tong
tick-a-ting-tingle-ingle-boom
Boom
Bom-
Tang-tong-tick-a-tangle-
tongle-boom-tang-tingle-tick-tick-a-bom
By
new
re-
209
numbers chalked on
to them.
and week
after
Day
after
day
into Petro-
streets,
of fresh
And
and
all
German ma-
the colors.
Moscow, known
sians as
Matuschka Moskva,
Moscow,"
lectual
affectionately to all
is
still
capital,
the
Holy
and the
"Little
last
and her
Mother
stronghold of
Rus-
cities
Moscow's
crowd wall
all
But
left
Moscow. Her
210
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
in the
The number
princes a legend in
Middle Ages,
of buildings of
is still
growing.
modern German
human life
lavish dis-
so characteristic of Petro-
it
seemed
where
any square
in the
ably ancient.
new
as gigantic as
capital,
and immeasur-
is
ikons,
Inside,
upon one
altar-
up
211'
and
Ivan
in
solid
slabs
of gold
Imperial
rible lived,
Napoleon
left
bell of
Boris
the ground;
hat
on
sol-
Redeemer.
the
Ikon of the
On Sunday we
THE WAR
212
river to the
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
Sparrow
Moscow
stood to watch
bank, groups of
the
where Napoleon
Hills,
Along
burning.
the
all
over
hills
ing holiday.
races,
moved
trees;
and
cordions
They sprawled on
under the
and
in little hollows
jiggled,
while
the
flat
places ac-
wild
stamping
men
and
and
cripples
idiots
fair.
An
in rags
by
followed
fists
old
hill,
lifted
woman
her hair
arms with
with their
laughing
fists,
weeping.
On
a high point of
man
with his
mak-
beneath him.
There was
of recklessness
might happen.
We
sat a
of the
hill,
the river
as
if
213
anything
made
Moscow.
And
as
we
Russia.
XV
TOWARD THE CITY OF EMPERORS
jP^HE handsome
and
in
to
in the prehistoric
in the world,
direct to the
of
Emperors"
also the
by
right.
And
all
that
which used
Golden Horn
in
let-
A sign
literally
"City
German
placard proclaimed
pompously, "Berlin-Constantinopel"
an
ar-
Sofia,
We
English
officers in
214
215
Tur-
home
in
man
two Hun-
Red
Germans
to the
There was a
Krupp workmen
for
factories,
men
of
years old.
U-54
And
relieve
compartment
to
way
business men,
and
intellectuals
on
offi-
their
Each was
a highly
216
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
in the marvellous
German machine
that
place
ground
The
went with
was curious
It
us.
to
watch the
Some
ticket
were scrupulously
Frenchman and
they
The
where they
all
Late at
German diplomats
gossiping about Moscow
All these
on the
firing-line, so to speak,
and
the Russian
he, of course,
But
in the
men were
except
was a Slav,
the breath-
217
and we
fled
Turkish Empire.
The
yellow
sluggish,
shallow,
Maritza
Dry, brown
grew;
hills
flat plains
roofed platforms on
there,
up here and
guns across
crows.
starting
stilts
their
Rarely a village
miserable
flat
dome of a
shabby minaret.
bombarded
in 1912,
mosque and
and deserted
it
cluster-
little
huts of
and shot
hill-
traces
of
flats,
village
had disappeared-
THE WAR
218
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
so quickly
it is
Sometimes we stopped
at a little station;
little
or seven veiled
in the sun.
gaze,
and
robed
all
into one,
rattle giggling
of golden dust.
six
away
in
a cloud
in dull green,
shuffled single
file
the train.
By
windows of
the
in-
and
and
An
ancient tree beside the station spread an emerald shade over a tiny cafe, where the turbaned,
slippered old
fit
sat gravely
and narghilehs.
at their coffee
Along
219
footed, ragged,
stood guard
line,
bare-
an
earlier vintage
still.
up
effort to straighten
as
we
that
passed.
we saw
the
They made a
in military attitudes
But
first
pathetic
it
was
at
Adrianople
and
Arab
turbans,
forehead, so that a
Mohammedan
The
flat
can salaam
A mild-faced,
with a
on the
tall
Bey
in the
at
He wore
Turkish army,
His scarred
face
was
220
THE WAR
set in
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
down the
up and
to time.
At
the
first
who were
tat-
scuffling
Hurry!" he snapped.
"Tchabouk!
of pigs, hurry
when
He
I call!"
came running
Startled, they
"Sons
at a stiff trot.
down with
a sneer;
men
The two
old
marched
stiffly
goose-step
and
Again he bawled
again, with
in
crestfallen
Prussian fashion.
expression,
It
they re-
fists in
Again!
Tchabouk!
the
Again!
221
Meanwhile, the other soldiers and the peasants had withdrawn from range, and stood in
clusters at a distance, mildly inspecting this
little
Of a
sian, saluted,
The other
and spoke.
glared,
little
"Bey
"Bey
the
effendi
" he
effendi
Bey went
fensive,
"
and
And
But
brighter scarlet,
finally
grew more
drew back
in
of-
good old
quite
still,
all
THE WAR
222
a blasted land.
as
if
IN
The
EASTERN EUROPE
was heavy,
Thin
distance.
corn-fields,
melon
irregular
were
all
was a
the vegetation.
Occasionally there
rustic thrashing-floor,
sledge
full
of laughing,
shouting
youngsters.
from
their
humps
the three
small boys
No
this
as
cities,
aban-
And
into
yet
it is
tine
Minor beyond.
liv-
human
who
Empire,
it
was good
policy, to
keep a
barren waste between the City and the countries of the restless barbarians.
...
Now we
began
to pass troop-trains.
lish
223
Eng-
Marmora had
gas,
The
simple
faces;
came
there
to Bulair.
us
to
incessant
companiment of
was
full of
shrill
more
One
still
in
sweeping gray
gauge
little
trains
hills,
fig-
Bulgarian invasion.
The sun
set behind,
warming
for an instant
THE WAR
224
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
stars.
We
trains
night I
by.
fell asleep,
Toward mid-
later to
I could
make out
the
wall rushing up as
On
breach in
it.
battlements
the
Byzantine sea
wall
fell
row
streets,
tall,
unpainted
rising hill
Over
stars the
sky
225
upon
its
of the
flat
roof
Istamboul,
the
XVI
CONSTANTINOPLE UNDER THE GERMANS
Turkish time (or
three minutes past nine a la fraqnue),
on
the
mense lazy
noises
the
roar,
woven of
incredibly varied
dler
voices,
the
nasal
wail
of
muezzin
From my
tall
balcony
Greek
that rushed
CONSTANTINOPLE
22T
The
from.
little
houses were
tiles
all
wood
sprang
rarely
unpainted, weath-
maze
of wriggling streets,
little
golden.
Beyond
side,
jumbled
northward, dazzling,
dome
tury.
its
Mosque
started
up
mast of
power of Venice
Down
hill-
of the win-
all
and
Piale Pasha
ablaze.
the very
up the
dows
this valley
Mohammed
the Con-
to the right; a
Shabby
dark pa-
field
of the
228
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
the heights of
money
in indescrib-
shoulder of a bald
mighty
hill,
Hebrew
cemetery, as
Golden Horn
Bounding
all
Khedive of Egypt
painted on her
eral,
sleeping quarters of
mantled second-rate
German
officers
dis-
little
dots,
cruiser
in the
Hamedieh,
CONSTANTINOPLE
229
sailors in fezzes;
Up
any eye
intricate for
huddling
little
piles,
roofs too
jagged
to follow, to the
hills,
Bridge and a
little
jam
Com-
of ships which
Above
arch,
who
still
Rome," has
all
New
power-
the mil-
home
astounded
of
those
Renaissance
Europe with
their
230
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Phanar, for
five
hun-
Turk.
of the
Romans
shadowed
and
in the
the
Palatium
it,
Commenus
village of
which no Christian
may
enter,
and the
inter-
hill
behind.
built
Empress
Irene,
whose
mosaics,
through
in gold
whitewashed
over,
blaze
CONSTANTINOPLE
perors stood
2311
The
hotel porter
nose for
He
tips.
was a
bent over
me
deferentially
your
Excellency.
to
tell
like
me
.?"
Daoud Bey was waiting for me, and together we went out into Tramway Street,
where the
electric cars
ten in French
and
apartment-houses, curi-
every one,
city.
cloth
like
Avenue.
of
all
Here
fit,
and
was
232
THE WAR
low
Levantine.
open embassies
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
At
Montene-
and
trousers
little
jackets,
and enormous
kavases of con-
gold
lace, fezzes
and swords.
An
Yet
Rue
tall
Rue
or the
overhanging
way up
from windows
all
the
In those narrow,
filth
was
and
interesting.
streets,
CONSTANTINOPLE
of
233
the cultivated
man
fell into
hands.
steep
street,
modern
flags to
As we walked down
the
an ancient Turkish
civilization cuts
may
pass,
what
Daoud Bey
Ger-
followed.
"The Turkish
police
went around,"
We
said he
German
flags pulled
down.
had the
devil of
strong
complaint."
"No
one
is
Teutonic brothers
mans
let
Moham-
THE WAR
234
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
medans).
Warsaw was
But we
Turkish victory.
idea,
also a
newly painted
signs
on
"You will
Bey. "You
Daoud
when
the
war broke
out, the
nation.
sup-
removed;
people
were
forbidden
to
speak
letters writ-
Horn
all
was
so they
simple.
so just a
had
to let up.
As
The American
week ago
consul protested;
CONSTANTINOPLE
ema
235
French,
and
English,
were
Russian
still
which
Turk
is
of wealthy, promi-
extraordinary in Tur-
and there
there
is
is
no family
no family name.
Hamid, was
tradition because
Daoud, son of
all
was known
In that splendid
son of Charles.
just as I,
as
John,
way
idle
Turks have, Daoud had been made an admiral in the navy at the age of nineteen.
years later a British naval commission,
vitation, reorganized the
it is difficult
from
asked
to
Turkish
The commission
in-
Now,
So he
an admiral.
like to
is
therefore
politely if he
would
He
an-
I asked him
by
their jobs.
the sea."
fleet,
Some
no longer
why he was
I can't bear
in the navy.
THE WAR
236
dying with
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
Gallipoli.
"Of
it
amounts
to the ad-
No Turk
very humiliating.
liras.
which
is
of any promi-
nence could afford to be seen in the army, unof course, he entered the upper
less,
Why, my
grades as a career.
official
dear fellow,
if
my
Here
country.
you
is
quite different
at you
if
fee
meeting
streets
the only
way
from your
to
At
It
father.
hill
Step
it!"
there
is
a tangle of
to clamber
up
to
Greek quarter of
tall,
street
CONSTANTINOPLE
237
hill
all
White-
to Stamboul.
And
flowing
between them
like
tween swaying
piles,
ment
of all races
and
all religions
Floating
silk
Arab
fer-
from Pera
Stamboul to Pera.
mark
the
bans
around them
Persian tarbouches,
Veiled
women
hurrying along
in
priests
and teachers
French
hats,
whose faces no
in little groups,
panamas.
man
looked,
robed in
tcliar-
THE WAR
288
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
from
showing through
of flesh
colored rags,
his
ban
all
agog, while a
little
crowd of
disciples
Armenian
gering at a smooth
trot,
packing-cases
clear the
rifles
and
way; four
shouting
soldiers
porters stag-
"DestourT
to
Sisters
head of their
silver;
two
little
donkey-cart, presented to
of
German
tourists in
hats,
equipped
CONSTANTINOPLE
Armenian guide; and
239
representatives of five
holes
European
Greek,
Armenian, Italian
Where
them
Pera
into
is
any-
Pera?
You
never see
there.
dinary
merchandise
loukoum of
Angora
honey,
helva,
roses,
the
milk of buffaloes shut in a dark stable), obscene postal cards, cigarette-holders of Ger-
man
glass,
carpets manufactured in
beads
sey, celluloid
shouting
their
screaming:
New
Newark,
Jer-
wares,
"Only a
bellowing,
cent,
whining,
two cents
On
To
crowded with
yond,
Horn.
all
up
ships,
Commerce,
240
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
Eng-
chirhet haries
Bosphorus
steamboats
back-
shoal of
fish.
mountains,
with
Scutari
dotted
white
and
From
left to
Em-
who
all
yel-
con-
at the
he
who
The
with
floating drawbridge
much confused
CONSTANTINOPLE
241
passage of a
the
in
these
bright seas;
over the
most disguising
color
sun,
startling
bridge," said
close the
into
little
wall,
tables
and
stools
in flapping slippers
Outside
all
roar
ment
here
"Daoud Pasha!"
was a slender
girl in
under her
who cannot
feet,
chin, in the
afford a
It
manner of
veil.
242
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
"Give
me some money!"
ously.
me
big money."
her a medjidieh
"Gypsy,"
said
Hamdi, a
of mine,
fell in
So
later I
she
went
little
voice at
money
please.'
my elbow
It
was
to live at
Eyoub.
friend
my
sherbet I heard
Eli.
He
and
jewels,
to her
it
her clothes
like a lover.
But
gave
let herself
out of the
CONSTANTINOPLE
harem door and swam
Horn!"
ders:
He
"You
We
paid.
can't
May
Golden
the
across
his shoul-
tame a chingani."
"May God
and a Turk
table
243
our
sitting at
"Afiet-olsoun!
a blind
old
woman
black
rusty
in
Daoud dropped
a copper in
it.
and said
She
in
"Kach parava?
How
much?"
said
Daoud.
tinguishable things.
said
my
friend,
chest.
"How
much, effendim?"
all
he used the
244
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
man
hopefully.
Daoud, climbing
the
'
into the
pushed
ca'ik ji
What
is
ca'ik.
Without reply
my
father?" asked
off.
your name,
Daoud.
"My name
is
my
Abdul,
Mohammed
born of
city of
in the sun.
"I
am
Trebizond on the
sea.
my
For
ca'ik
fifty-two
across the
Stamboul Limani."
I told
Daoud
to ask
of the war.
"It
is
"All wars
Koran say
that he
who
"You
Daoud.
ai*e
'learned in the
Koran?" exclaimed
CONSTANTINOPLE
"Do
man.
245
am no
"I
priest;
but in
my youth
was
"What
should he
know
Daoud
translated.
Then
to
me:
a Germanone of our
Tell me, of
what shape
Is your Sultan
"We
shall
willing," said
win
this
war, inshallah
God
Abdul.
"Mashallah!"
responded
his light
Daoud
gravely,
European cynicism
XVII
THE HEART OF STAMBOUL
UR
way
You
Make
have no pas-
sengers,
why do you
We
laid
in Stamboul.
Through
the
sticks,
we
we bumped along.
Along a cross street a
young men
In the
string of boys
and
246
said
Daoud Bey.
met a non-commissioned
officer
247
Often we
the crowds,
glancing
soldiers
alley,
where a hundred
thwack! thwack!
to
"Hundreds of
"Waiting
stantinople.
tolia,
Ana-
so
they say."
I said
it
the city.
"Possibly," he answered with ironical inflection.
the
248
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Base falsehood, of
course
yet
fore.
more
or less responsible.
a thing
city
find a way.
to
the
buy bread.
Germans
trust the
bakeries
it
But
for a
back
man must
streets of Pera, I
where the
last load
with a howling
for.
eat.
all
By
registered
Last evening,
in the
mob
outside
still
unprovided
began
out on
to tear
all
down
Novo-Georgievsk, crying:
victories!
hung
Give us bread!'
'We
"
249
sold.
Dim
making a
cool
gloom
southern Persia.
Above
from
this
bowls
made from
all sorts
dervish
of
beggar-
human
lower jaw
of a horse.
On
the counter
powder and
250
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
In the dark
oil.
little
room behind
jars, so that
when Youssof
Effendi lighted
his
He
stopped
us,
lamp
it
Forty Thieves.
lips
dignified
tall,
silk,
and
and
fez
wound about
it
beard covered
zling teeth,
eyes.
said he
"Aleykoum salaam, Youssof Effendi," answered Daoud, rapidly making the gesture
lips
and forehead.
"Here
251
is
my
"Hosh
Hoja
geldin.
You
and forehead.
tion of his
hands to
didn't say
"salaam" which
lips
tween Mohammedans.
is
mo-
He
Turkish.
and a
little
"Coffee,
."
smok-
we
from Samsoun,
in
murmured
the
Hoja
each sip
we
it
we
to
pleasant to your
stomachs."
a powerful
man
in
Stam-
THE WAR
252
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
boul.
in the
mosque of Zeirick
Ivilissi,
which was
and
in
whose shadow
still lies
of
and
up
there in fear
of assassination.
know many
"I
by the djinni
your
in
streets
is
than those
in ancient times,
demon
called
twinkled "who
One day
no other land.
and I
Graft"
stalks
taller
through
is
known
I shall go there,
opium
is
worth
weight in gold."
He
looked from
Daoud Bey
to me.
"You
he remarked.
he
over-refined
is
will
253
handsome, but
is
He
He should
milk.
American
much and
is
very happy.
way I am."
I wanted Daoud to ask how many wives
he had. The Hoja understood my ill-manThat
is
the
"PekJri!
he replied.
for a
Mohammedan
I
know but
wife.
come by night to
easier
Women
six friends
When
any
a Christian?
expensive.
to support
it is
the
who have
Armenian
my harem
sell,
are
from
I answer
"What
"
war?"
the evasive
THE WAR
254
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
on a subject
"My
son
is
in
send what he
One
will!
Allah
We
are a
we Osmanlis."
Turks" I began.
fighting race,
"Do
the
"You must
" 'Turk'
Daoud.
as
you would
barbaric,
Asia;
not
us
call
means
say.
'Turks,' "
rustic
We
clown
said
'rube,'
we
civil-
ized race."
"I do not
like
manners.
When
of the Germans.
said.
"They have no
an Englishman or an Ameri-
my
forehead,
lips, to
and we talk of
my
coffee
and
Be-
my
indifferent subjects,
is
But when
proper.
the
255
Germans come
my
coffee,
without friendship.
sell
any more
Alemanes"
to
many
Later I observed
around the
city; there
on
officers
of the
Germans
leave, tourists,
and
civil officials.
governs
veiled
the
in
noisily
into
when no European
is
German
Koran
officers
in
visitors' gallery,
while two
German throughout
the services
We went up
the
intricate
winding
streets
of
Stamboul,
THE WAR
256
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
fortress-
like
by
the
great
mosques,
down
wooden
bead-chainswhere
like cascades
green
vines
fell
site
of Byzantine
an occasional passer-by
shrill-voiced ped-
women
When we
passed
imam,
faces.
to
talk
said, laughing,
"and
it
makes a
officer,"
he
terrible hit.
257
is
the
Half
the people
saluted him
we met
humbly
and power.
as a person of
Hoja
prominence
saluted the
buy of me
sides:
See
this beauti-
patronage,
Youssof Effendi!"
"What
is
Hoja
imperiously.
"A
"Robber
calmly.
moved
"Dog
and
thief,"
our
of a Jew,
"Ten
replied
back over
we go and
piastres!
Ten
his
guide
He
shoulder:
.return
no more!"
piastres!"
screamed
258
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
a nervous shouting
"Do
not
make me
Youssof Effendi!"
shout,
"You
will give
me
apoplexy!"
"Twenty
Hoja
calmly,
inexorably.
Late
in the
cubbyhole
morning we
behind
little
sat in the
dark
Greek bookshop
luminated Korans
Daoud
Enter a young
we
sat,
He
came
to
where
Daoud
translated.
offal,"
Several
Bey
259
who was
an unveiled
Ferid
a Greek.
Bey came
cause he
to
talking piggishness to a
is
surprised.
'I
'I
am
'Be-
girl.'
did not
arrest
know
was against
mand
that
you arrest
Mahmoud Bey
girl.'
So I arrested
keeper of the
for talk-
because
all
jail
telephoned Bedri
Mahmoud
Bey.
of the
man
prison?
loose,
or the matter, so
Therefore, they
to Bedri
Bey,
arrested,
THE WAR
260
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
no offense
'is
called
me
Together
Ferid Bey.
together.
ears.
We
pal
I went to arrest
the girl
am
humiliated.
my
at Pera, to
The
striped
in a flood of
made
a dim, checkered
and
the
cosmopolitan
parade
Vague
the garden.
that
yel-
glittered, speckled
crouching animal.
officers
on
leave,
workmen
of the
Krupp
in full-dress
officials,
261
on
Turkish
many
of
children, in comfortable
But
Frenchmen
and Americans.
Armenians, Levantine
cial
Turks of
Italians,
sailors,
offi-
Germans
ing ruddy American sailors from the stationnaire Scorpion, towering in their white sum-
It
was hard
guns spat
Homeric
262
THE WAR
battles of those
man
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
American
man-of-war's-men
and
were
soldiers
workmen and
civilians very-
Sometimes an intoxicated or
quarrelsome.
excited
The Ger-
sailors!
to the
Ameri-
man
officer
them on the
The
sailors
in
Lu&itama
street
and
insist
on being saluted.
Saxon
fashion.
Ger-
case; or a
insults,
fists,
and
Anglo-
matic service."
And
then there
two
sailors
is
the wonder-
who
laid out
to the
by congratulatory
American
Sailors'
wounded
Club
Respect
263
sailors
Afterward we got
police.
into a cab
cabman
lights
Dim
lamps
they were
saving coal.
terious
on mys-
figures
on slippered
silently
We
cool
lazily at
and drinking
our narghilehs
sat
coffee,
the gray,
your forehead.
by
feet.
and puffing
and
him
walls,
alone,
by ways known
One
after the
THE WAR
264
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
out
into
the
seems the
last
came
far,
and
a worn-out race.
Out
on going with us
to Pera; so
Hoja
we
invited
On
him
Champs.
vaudeville performance
girls,
dancing
dian,
Hungarian
ettes
insisted
the
was going on
singing
girls,
acrobats,
German marion-
gestures,
How
vulgar
it
seemed after
courtesy of Turkish
life!
gaping
civilized
265
the perform-
Soon
many
protests
show
at
But
all.
He
hill
it
on the
to the
know
I was curious to
his
real opinion.
was
"It
very
lovely,"
Youssof
replied
shall
my
little
"I
granddaughter to
see
"
it
ill
open,
Burgas.
but high
Now
the
at night
it is
cdiks, so there
for
and
the shadow
Golden Horn
all
in
interminable
Daoud Bey,
down to the
forbidden for
closing
of
the
draw.
popped a
way
Suddenly, out of
soldier-patrol.
266
THE WAR
"Dour!
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
"Where
officer.
offizieren!" he bellowed.
Daoud.
Late
Hill.
fell
German always
"The
rudely.
"Wir sind
The man
chuckled
it,"
at night
In a dark
side-street the
crowd was
al-
We
morning.
Street
by a
it
opened
were stopped at
in the
Tramway
bells.
we glimpsed white
bandaged
wounded
XVIII
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
M Y window, high up in the dazzling neo! A French facade of the Athenee Palace
Hotel
in Bucarest, looks
down on
little
park
flowers,
celebrities
and
manian
languishing
Muse
To
the left
lies
like
them
all
over France.
Its
baroque dome
names
Cervantes,
Pushkin,
Camoens,
Beethoven,
Racine,
etc.,
known
to the
West.
Eastward
267
as far as one
THE WAR
268
can
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
pile up,
modern French
Oriental
dome
or the bulb of a
Greek Church.
by Frenchmen
of
the
with an occasional
style,
It
Rumanian
is
Rumanian name,
whose
Balkans,"
At
heat of a cloudless
summer
On
day.
the right
Hotel
"Hig-LirT")
(pronounced
and the
transplanted
Haussmann.
from
the
is
Boulevard
driving
home
a com-
Champs Elysees
of
where
it
Germanophile
party,
branch
of
as
the
chief of the
Conservative
usual
one,
two,
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
The
tkree.
An
endless
by superb
handsome
of
file
carriages,
drawn
both directions
street.
269
by
in
narrow
blue-velvet robes
whose ends
them
right or left
tab.
who
are
all
members of a strange
come eunuchs.
Each
carriage
is
child,
woman
or
more
dense
again
up
and back
like
French decadent
poets,
and army
offi-
THE WAR
270
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
gold
on
lace, tassels
tions that
and caps of
their boots,
much
color
combina-
down
the Galea
all
prominent
What
trast
file
between the
of the
army
who swing by
officers
little
peasants
and trained!
and pastry-shops
strong, stocky
excellently equipped
berless cafes
a con-
The num-
spill tables
streets,
out
crowded with
got up like
into wild
rhythms that
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
restaurants
fill
Lights
flash out.
and
271
tresses.
for
city supports
more
To
his
prostitutes in proportion
cities in
look at
it
all
The white
hot,
yet
life is
a
so
thirty years
astery which
Bucarest
manian
is
was the
The
modern Ru-
mushroom
fat plain
is
one
mainspring of wealth
is
THE WAR
272
the
oil
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
There are
region.
oil
It costs
New
than in
There
more
York.
is
nothing individual.
dinky
to live in Bucarest
little
Everything
German King
is
city,
borrowed.
lives in
a dinky
little
ture,
surrounded by a pompous
The government
gium.
Although
is
little
court.
all titles
of nobility except in
years
many
ago,
"Prince"
people
call
fathers were
tium!
their
fore-
themselves
who
trace
Poets and
artists
or Munich.
and of
Cubism
little
in
is
late
all
Vienna, Berlin,
Rumania than
at
home.
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
bound peasants, who dare
273
you can
see
Revues based on
dull
French
ones,
from the
everything
without
meaning and
without
charm.
If you want to infuriate a Rumanian, you
his
country as a Balkan
state.
"Balkan!" he
not a Balkan
cries.
state.
"Balkan!
Rumania
is
confuse us
We
are
Latins"
One
is
newspapers
are Latins
insist
is
a reference to
274
THE WAR
or the Italians"
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
but
Roman
veterans colonized in
Roman Empire;
Some
Rumania
Remus
is
in a
a fountain show-
may
But
those
Roman
colonists
legions
salem, or south
Germany.
Add
to that the
He
an
inflexible
And
he has Latin
traits:
excitability,
ment
in critical situations.
He
is
lazy and
RUMANIA
IN DIFFICULTIES
275
sceptical
flavor;
and
libertine,
like
an
like
One good
taste
Italian,
observer
Shopkeepers
you they
fly into
angry monkeys.
manian
you.
he
How many
is
times have
me: "Don't go
Rumanian and
are
if
friends said to
and-so's shop
in restaurants
like
Ru-
to so-
will cheat
place."
Ru-
the
traits of
French,
is
not
all
metropolis
any nation
Berlin
But
Rumania.
reflects
the
that Paris
essentially
is
I insist
dominant
essentially
Prussian,
and
Sometimes
men
in
fall
to
276
THE WAR
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
flowers, the
skirts
women
worked
around
their necks.
They
fit
hanging
live in
burrows in the
The ground
their
is
owned
a landowning noblewho
by a boyar
Two
till
keeps
his
land
There
is
no school
there.
now
it
it
storehouse.
not
And the
church pro-
RUMANIA
IN DIFFICULTIES
277
by
The peasants
landowners.
satisfied
very
religious, or superstitious,
want
to call
if
man
hand
it.
For
are
whichever you
to guide
Now many
The country
is
dead man's
him
The
there.
yearly
sum
supersti-
from
his
dead man's
spirit
is
a vampire.
To
lay this
it is
strictly forbid-
who
drives a
278
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
For
it.
this
he charges
a hundred francs.
Crown
was a cold
night, with a
Yet
your bones.
train which
It
into
all
night long
line
we looked
of wretched
More than
is
owned by
try's
fifty
less
landowners
whom
Indeed,
it is all
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
hotels in Paris
and Vienna,
279
their houses in
money
One
mud
Jersey.
Add
it
is
with
in
New
Rumania
are
There have
army system
exists,
it
is
easy to
down
their
You
have
Rumanian
peasants, gentle,
ners
even
man-
THE WAR
280
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
to
realize
how
frightful the
What
is
There
opinion?
is
no public opinion
The peasants
mania.
Rumanian
the trend of
country to exploit.
demonstration of
how
It
Ru-
in
whatever
public
is
simply another
politicians.
and they
side that
they
call
Now
Rumania
as
the
Rumanians came
Danube which
herders
originally
flat
plain north
and
race
Black Sea.
southern Bucovina
from
includes Bessarabia,
of
"national aspirations"
politicians,
is full
of
far;
Rumanians, and
Greece.
vania,
The most
civilized section,
into the
Transyl-
Hungarian
RUMANIA
IN DIFFICULTIES
281
by Russia
Rumanian, was
finally
Rumanian indepen-
as the price of
And
though
many
people
taken
now
al-
remember the
alive
under the
fell
It was partially to
make up
Rumanian
Silistria,
population.
in the
Ru-
back in 1913,
When
there
is
no
of "national aspirations"
is
excused by Bal-
upper
sian,
The
became Rus-
guage
in schools
effect
of mak-
who have
THE WAR
262
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
mother country.
In Transylvania, the birthplace of the
race,
But
is
civilized;
The
when
in
the
a stubborn
Rumania
for
nationalist
propaganda
education,
at
mountains into
so
across
Hungary
as
far as
travel
Buda-Pesth and
Rumanian.
So the "national aspirations" of Rumania,
on "ethnographical grounds," include Bessarabia, Bucovina, Transylvania,
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
and I have
also seen a
map
288
in Bucarest, col-
side.
But
there
is
a mor-
limelight
Balkans
now
political
politics
How many
politicians.
In the
prominence!
is
men
to be party
is
born
For
instance,
La
Politique
is
the organ
deposed.
is
He
was once
so
pro-French that
it
lently anti-German,
whose organ
is
the Journal
THE WAR
284
des Balkans.
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
.
Then
there
is
the Indepen-
German
was pro-
now
party
who
in
And La Roumanie,
power.
in the country
is
the
on the
side
The Conservatives
who
capitalists;
Socialist
But
count.
all
internal
programmes were
On
Rumania
Two
which side
forshall
diate
entrance
Powers.
one
man
on the
But when a
side
of the
Central
It
was
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
the first time his royal will
285
what
It
is
cial
in the
is
a great
of the
is
Ferdinand, the
King and
interests,
the heads
political
jugglers.
sentiment in their
own
inimitable way.
Thou-
upon Bucarest
They took
The
hotels
were
full of
They
distributed
them
and
Res-
Rumanian
heart,
Ger-
286
THE WAR
man
They supported
champagne,
IN
all
EASTERN EUROPE
the girls, bought
corrupted
all
the
all
the
government
...
A nation-
and
stir
To
up anti-Russian
the
from Transylvania
feeling.
ceded
if
she
insisted.
The
Allies
offered
was much
Although there
More-
is
if
RUMANIA IN DIFFICULTIES
Hungary
287
is
whose drive
will
be no longer eastward.
the Carpa-
thians,
last
in the
The
Take Ionescu
at
"We
as to believe that
through Serbia
And
am
only we can
in a position to tell
if
she
is
stop
you that
attacked.
a bluff
It
is
which
would
THE WAR
288
mean
cabinet
war
German
fell
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
policy.
Even
if
the Bratianu
is
not for
is
way
for Marghiloman.
impossible."
Three weeks
German drive on
more Rumania held
later the
And
XIX
BULGARIA GOES TO WAR
X3UT
not Rumania.
dirty
little train,
of
Bulgaria,
Leaving Bucarest on a
made
is
mud and
little
villages
submissive-looking peasants
Gentle,
white
linen,
You
in
the
Rumanian
indifferent
if
is
officials,
who make
it
But
world.
While
Danube
the steamer
is
is
another
yet a hundred
290
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
once
Good-natured, clumsy soldiers make a pretense of examining your baggage, and smile
As you
you a welcome.
Can
you?"
He
are a
I do anything for
not a guide; he
is
"You
is
just a pas-
therefore friendly.
and
taineers
free
flat,
is
wonderful to see
men, and to
Bulgaria
is
virility
to
a cordial answer
where
if
your ears
of Slavic speech.
fill
know where
street
and get
a shopkeeper gives
will follow
you
piece.
to
Never
relief
The
train labors
up through Rustchuk
its
minarets, spreading
tile
and turbans
into
291
full of
uproarious
streamers, and
linen,
chains
of
man
girls
waving paper
bunches
blankets,
Ahead
men and
of
bright
grapes,
and
colored
flowers.
drum,
the
you wake
Night
and
tween high
herdsmen
in
hills
their
ish,
and Turk-
smothered in fruit-trees;
a toy city of
dome
different
from Bu-
THE WAR
292
carest than
practical,
Sofia.
sober
town of
many
streets
brick.
mosque
Except
or Byzantine
ruin,
full of
heels, it
Pacific Northwest.
literally
everybody goes
plot
little
paved with
head;
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
is
city of the
is
the
and
If you want an
in
one case I
know
of,
with the
King
Or
want
if
to call
you don't
Grand Cafe
they
will all
.
Sofia
Royal Palace
is
come
is
in
some time
little
place,
The unpretentious
the
293
Holy Synod
Every one
of
any importance
of five blocks.
Toward evening
clothes,
and
strolls
just beyond.
lives in
a radius
the
town gets on
its
best
Liberator to Prince
Boris
solemn domestic
little
Park.
It
is
and
all
the children.
The women
are com-
the crowd
officers
Many
officers
who wear
mingle with
smart, practical
they
knew how
soldiers in
Squads of burly
to fight.
stiffly
Darkness brings a
sand feet up
chill
you
for Sofia
is
a thou-
home
to dinner.
There
is
THE WAR
294
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
no subtlety
ham
hotel,
you can
sit
dish.
Afterward
Pub-
lic
There
Theatre.
"New
is
to
town on a
jag.
The number
is
amazing.
of people
Almost
all
American missionary
school in Constantinople.
it
was hailed
liberty."
and
that's
as "cradle of
Bulgarian
That's
But
there are
295
more powerful
in-
nople,
the
language
full of
of Turkish customs.
Then
is
life
Russia's freeing
thought
garian
brother.
toward
There was
her
also a
group of
army
nalists,
and
Slav
intellec-
And
garian
mighty
lastly,
politicians,
for
Buljour-
many.
An
are
The
fields
lies
around
hill.
A wild
THE WAR
296
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
had no trade
at
all,
monks
all mills,
and
tile
baked
roofs,
built
clay, straggle
of
wood
or stone or
streets.
for in
five inalienable
men.
At
room
for
is
all
no
a big,
the chil-
Germany.
Tele-
it
with the
city.
And
these evi-
all
over Bulgaria.
all this.
The Bulgars
tic
297
know
by the
peasants of other Balkan peoples about Bulgars for seven hundred years, which illustrate
the Bulgarian character better than anything
I could say.
fields
his
Coming
shoulder.
cried, "the
I must save
well.
to a well, he looked
reflected in
moon
So he put
it!"
on
But
well.
his back.
satisfaction,
"Ha,"
his scythe
the scythe
He
pulled
Above him
said he with
"Good
pulled.
fell
it.
and pulled.
in his
the fields
came
Wind
rustled the
leaves
it.
THE WAR
298
IN EASTERN EUROPE
stopped to look at
"What
said one.
"The
it.
is
it
The
saying?"
others
tree's talking,"
Filled with
down
It broke
and they
it
all
drowned.
had
wall.
So the
around the
and began
with
down
the
to push.
all their
strength
they pushed
so
hard
pushing!
"Just a
little
more now!
Keep on
She's moving!"
who invaded
originally
Mon-
299
Under
the legen-
all
to the Adriatic,
Two
east to Thrace.
and
and Thessaly
hundred years
later,
In the thirteenth
Twice during
to
Byzantium,
this
garian "national
grounds"
aspirations"
like all
on
"historical
But
ple,
the
without guile.
war on the
side
300
THE WAR
And
to
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
the
Balkan War?
It
is
pirations."
The Macedonian
European war
of every great
years,
and
until that
no more peace
is
either in the
of them. Macedonia
up
is
Balkans or out
Serbs,
Turks, Albanians,
by
mingling
side without
five
and
St. Paul.
In
own
But
customs,
language,
Balkan
Serbian or
most
traditions.
and
all
War
no
Rumanian
intelligent
ever denied
Bulgaria's great
Macedonia.
They were
Greek or
this.
Al-
the
first
people,
to
when
found
WAR
BULGARIA GOES TO
national schools there,
301
at
is
free
the
bishoprics,
because
it
was
establish
evident
so
to
that
Ambitious Ser-
in
Macedonia,
century that
the north
and spread
east through
Bosnia,
last years
of
lie.
Balkan turmoil
was
in sight,
302
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
slice.
War
sible
to claim
no respon-
Macedonia on
Constan-
"historical" grounds.
European
But up
littoral of the
Even
But
that
was
all.
Balkan Alliance
Mr. Milano-
"There are
ought to go to Bulgaria.
districts
which
Adrianople
us.
garian.
Most
But a
strip
of eastern
Macedonia
And
the best
And
this
Emwas
When
308
was
to leave a
if
it
Serbia
Adrianople
amazed
fallen,
at their success.
stop at a line
They
said they
would
Turks
tried so frantically to
make peace
that
ing turn.
all
of Macedonia, Epirus,
in the
Balkan Al-
seize
Together
THE WAR
304
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
give
up
and they
didn't see
territory fairly
Balkan Empire
won
So they made a
quietly
went to work
their
to
new
secret
territories.
treaties
treaty
to Grecianize
publicists
should
any powerful
were.
bianize
why they
and
and Serthousand
began to
fill
the
the
to
Serbs,
and Serbian
colonists
Greek
Macedonians.
Bulgarian
school-
garian priests given the choice of death or conversion to the Orthodox religion.
The Greek
and
they ex-
THE
SERB.
305
"Vlaquophone"
"Bulgarophone" Greeks or
Greeks.
diplomatically
called
"
them
Macedonian
villages
"What
Slavs."
"This
officers.
is
speak Greek."
or flight.
by
they de-
evasive
their ally.
more than
dreamed of gaining,
agreed to
to
start
for
St.
THE WAR
306
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
at-
on Salonika.
consulted.
cabinet,
as a shock to the
and peace.
loose in Sofia.
Who
so,
King Ferdinand
kan King.
He
is
Tzar of an immense,
the
belligerent empire.
And
tente
off
it all.
I was in Sofia
Powers made
and on
losers.
The
the
En-
their offer,
when
Allies offered
all
of Serbian
to the
307
Thrace, and diplomatic support for the recovery of Grecian Macedonia and
The
Silistria.
and
immediately.
Germany
Turkey
told
to be ceded
Bulgaria that
man
all
and
The Bulgars
The
by occupying the
troops.
line of the
But
the
Bul-
the
is
on July
said
the
308
THE WAR
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
The bulk of
these
are comprised in
aspirations
Macedonia, with
Bulgarian population of
its
It
War, and
When
it is still
the
Serbian
first
Balkan
minor claims
where
to
in
will be realized,
must be
real
and
But
these guarantees
No
absolute.
else-
Only
mere paper
certainty on this
is
more than
half
from persecution
In the
a million
in
among
first
Bulgarians
place
fled
out the villages of Bulgaria, forever preaching the liberation of their country.
In the
309
Sofia
camp
visit
in the outskirts of
under
While I was
five
garians
lived
tents, at great
to the government.
them
in Sofia in
thousand Bul-
prisoners
by the
of the
Every day
by
Both were
was the
true.
To
among
who had
and gratefulness
the peasants
traditional love
very strong
and slaughtering.
memory
to
Russia
of the genera-
310
bition
and personal
profits
with
the impor-
wheedle the people, and are subject to an unscrupulous and irresponsible monarch
real royal power.
who has
said to
it
As
to them.
with Zululand!"
and exhausting
bitter
in a
hundred ways
for
instance,
by allowing
By
an agreement of
was
left in the
all political
parties at
to
indefinitely.
But
311
became defined,
demanded the
calling
This the
tion.
for he
was
knew
still
King
pro-Ally.
In
its
desperation the
The
provinces of
New
so gerry-
mandered
Liberals.
How
made
when
a confidential
plain
man
it
was
journeyed
"You
you which
against the
I
In
still
spite of
a majority
to
war.
As
ovist party,
812
Mr.
position,
Sobranie.
cratic
how
And Mr.
fatal to
his
country knew
instalment of an immense
arrived,
German
me
first
gold
loan had
that the
to
off.
frontier," said
who
me with glowing approval how
to be another Belgium."
politician
BULGARIA GOES TO
the peasants loved Russia,
"The peasants
warm.
WAR
313
now seemed
luke-
in the
You
and I know
we understand
better;
that the
In the
first
chenie, or
refugees,
week
And
furtive
he
air.
in
No
The
hour
is
at
hand
oppressor!"
to free
The
were summoned
sixty
"Macedonians!
thousand responded,
fifteen
thousand Alba-
314
new
volun-
streets cheer-
They knew
flag.
In twenty
so.
6,
me
full of
rail-
Late
in
315
when
gan
in the
horse, foot,
had
artillery
was a grand
there
civilians,
also vanished,
In the afternoon
patriotic demonstration
by
of politicians
that night!
whatever.
My, how
There never
is
and the
and directed
chiefs
and
in Sofia
viewed
and
were methodical,
politicians
when
the BulEven
organized,
The party
The
the
refused to be inter-
critical
was no excitement
demonstrations
But, in
Too
Op-
resistless
late the
coup
march of
d'etat
was
events.
brief
and
816
THE WAR
On
dramatic.
IN
EASTERN EUROPE
Radical parties,
Danev
als,
Nationalists,
Prince Boris.
Malinov, in
his speech,
Europe and
country made
it
said
the
ex-
war on
He
would help
it
the
war
presented a
his
in
the gov-
and
if
believed
memorandum
colleagues,
Stamboliisky then
signed by himself
which respectfully
de-
manded:
First.
317
Second.
model of the English and French war governments), with an enlarged number of ministers to represent the eleven political parties.
Third.
the
government
to
in
Crown.
means of
able
final
figures
is
victory
"The moment
pointing out by
floor,
of
the
inevit-
Entente Powers.
unripe," he said.
war
and after
memo-
When
they returned
it
became apparent
its
mind
to a course
THE WAR
318
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
could not be
made
"What most
public.
main a
secret then?"
"I had no idea that you represented the people of this country,
the King.
"Why
come
me
to see
is
Mr. Stamboliisky,"
that
it
said
before?"
it,"
said
Stamboliisky; "but I
And
let
my
me remind
is
in dan-
long!"
"My
not of
head
much
is
value.
"and
better take
per
By
this
tried to quiet
and "for a
King
"Gentlemen, I
rose
shall present
the government.
I can
319
tell
your demands to
am happy
any
cost.
at last to
Mr. Stamboliisky,
have made your ac-
quaintance!"
Two
days later
we
and
XX
SERBIA REVISITED, AND GREECE
T?IFTEEN
between
files
more
ever
mounting de-
towering
hills,
Stony peaks
their texture.
is
ers.
a breeding-place of hard
Two
we
hours, and
men and
fight-
dry, hot,
little
lies
with troops.
tial
substan-
east
320
and north,
schools,
321
neat
electric lights,
station
little
ticket-agent
who was
when we
cordial
so
window
to shake hands.
The
train roars
Where
hills.
arid
in Serbia.
What
cousins
first
little,
Bulgars and
The town
Serbs!
all
tiles;
school visible.
the ramshackle
On
deep,
no
wooden
station,
a customs
offi-
cer,
and a sword,
too,
offi-
discussion, en-
The
rapid, flexi-
on our ears
them
in easy familiarity
Around
crowded peasant
sol-
THE WAR
322
diers in
IN EASTERN EUROPE
and joining
listening
"Mr. Pachitch!"
in the
father
is
no true Serbian!
Who
was a Turk!
couldn't
He
argument.
His
army,
make a
Young
his
chest.
mother
better
Radical?"
"Why
"
myself
The customs
officer
Down
at
off.
names on
but
all
rifles.
all
323
The
down her
tears streamed
face; she
wiped
his
on the
chest.
sleeping-car.
the arm.
fell
box car!"
into the
threw
his
to the ground, a
Everybody laughed.
legs.
aged
man
with one
An
incredibly
He
rifle.
man's
he
face.
shrilled.
"Do
.
The customs
ment.
He
who
not
officer
came
offering cigarettes.
"What
exciting
down and
the news?
THE WAR
324
rumors
EASTERN EUROPE
IN
here. Is Bulgaria
better not
"But
if
we'll
march
Austria and
to Sofia in
Germany
once!
it
two days!"
attack you?"
Let them
come!
Ahead
."
diers.
all
sol-
ballad about
And
So
it is
army
very busy,
I think if
may
One's
frontier
we
attack their
not be defeated.
first
is
women and
last week's
children
we
of a
mob
of money-changers, boot-
ers
in his
papers
of harsh,
and
shrewd, brown
fruit
little
and
trad-
Three years ago there were no Greeks whatever in this arid mountain valley of southern
Macedonia; now
it is all
Greek.
That
is
what
in every
325
all
but
are forced
soil
The
Rumanians
are
I think I
soldiers
flavor.
any
Now
Balkan peoples
The
it
was
in terms of
that they
fight.
and
the
But Greeks
wave
limitless.
They
consider
THE WAR
326
IN EASTERN EUROPE
Greek
the ancient
An
city-states.
editorial
frame of mind
is
the mother of
Western
civili-
nations
to assemble their
dominated
Italy, as Prussia
Piedmont
dominated Ger-
many.
itself
by
certain
new
states,
such as Austria-Hungary,
many
And
inefficiently
lies
Greek
and bribery.
railroad official
and corruptly
itself is
A typical
who was
new
a hotbed
example
is
the
bribed by Ger-
And
army.
first
327
Greek
time the
The
her obli-
last
fulfil
was
day I was
little
Three
mark
Staff
officials,
twenty-five boxes
and
ing
was piled
into the
the
in the street
and the
Hotel de Rome.
rumor was
Hamilton was
seized the
sentries
The baggage
rifles
all
fifteen
went
minutes
in Salonika.
Greek
In
officers
officials.
Wild excitement
Around
the
two
prowled
silently watching.
328
THE WAR
Hot
What
EASTERN EUROPE
wires
frightened
IN
officials cried:
shall
"What
does
it
mean?
we do?"
King
into the
way home
He
kans.
soda, as
we went
to lunch
Hotel de Rome.
tall,
bronzed,
solid
and
Englishman
came
to our table.
like to
Our
"It
"The
to one an-
table
He
Pretty soon he
to chairs
He
speak with
sat
and piloting
down
at the
and grinned.
is
too,
too
me
to
go immediately
329
to
instructions.
"
Here
devil
am and
yVhat the
devil
their
way
full of British
to Salonika.
we
troops
Form
Form
47
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