Noble varietals take siesta as the Mediterranean heads South

Tempranillo, Carignan, Macabeo, Nebbiolo, Grenache. A drop in the ocean of the

Mediterranean cultivars that have garnered praise as part of local wine produce. However,
when comparing these varieties to the famous Nobles, who will remain standing? We
can thank Japans rugby team for showing us that the little guys (or not so little!) can be
major contenders too!
Undoubtedly, South Africas viticulture is still on the noble variety bandwagon. But there
has been a major shift in the mindset of wine consumers. Much like South Africas
unique breed of hipsters, so too has our wine culture matured and evolved. No longer can
any individual remain ignorant of the development within the wine industry and the
replacement of old with new.
Not to mention that with the delicious lightness which can come with Mediterranean
wines, there is also a definite financial advantage. Being wise financially is something
that has been ingrained in ALMOST every South African. #Feesmustfall? And so they
did! The movement away from heavy oaked wines to lighter styles, which so elegantly
suites Mediterranean wines, will make a substantial contribution to cellars new oak
expenditures. By lowering production costs, the final product will also be more
affordable. Hello to inexpensive, non-bank-breaking Spanish blends!
Having had a conversation with a New York importer of wine recently really opened my
eyes. We were discussing the oh-so-familiar trend of individuals buying wine, not
because they have tasted it and want to re-experience its pure bliss, but alas, because it
has a sticker on it! It has been stickered to such an extent that you feel it a shame NOT to
buy it. It must be good? Right?
Not necessarily. A 100 point wooded Cab can be just the same as the pretty bottle with
the nice stickers on it. Is it good? Probably. Will I like it? Maybe. Does it make it better
than the wine with the unheard of varietal names? Definitely not! All that is gold does not
glitter.
Noble varieties are named so because they come from a lineage producing exceptional
wines and have throughout the centuries, continued to produce outstanding wines in most
regions. Historically (and any wine lover who is worth his (or her) weight in salt will
know this), is that most of these noble varieties originate from France. Simon van der Stel
knew this and was familiar with producing wine with a sturdy knowledge of viticulture
and viniculture. And it was not just our ancestral wine patron who knew this. Most
countries that have started producing wine within the last half-millennium have, in most
parts, also adopted the Frenchs preference for noble varieties.
But considering the Bordeaux regions climate and then comparing it to our own South
African climate, are we actually planting cultivars which are adapted to our put-a-fan-onme heat? This is a question that remains to be answered.

South Africas wine industry has truly evolved since our first plantings of Steen. But have
we been truly honest with what works for our terrain? Or have we taken what another
country has proven works for them, and merely adapted it? This might be the case. But
any person that has tasted our wines compared to a Burgundy Chardonnay, knows that
SA is a major contender in the international wine scene. Be it a Rioja Tempranillo or a
German Riesling. We do it and we do it well.
We as South Africans have a constant internal battle. This becomes utterly tangible when
we are facing the gruesome task of selecting a bottle of wine from our local Tops.
Colours, fonts, pretty flourishes, names that we are yet able to pronounce. Be it a bottle of
wine for dinner, or a gift for your boss. This is never an easy task. And it is
understandable that most folks resort to picking the one with all the stickers, the one
beckoning you with its golden whisper Buy me because Im worth it!
So what has it come to? Where will South Africa find itself within the next few years
regarding the planting of varietals and production of wine? We have taken what France
has given us and made it work. We have also found our own voice in the international
markets and started making interesting blends and unique wines. The Swartland is a good
example with Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst being considered pioneers of the
movement. We cannot change our style every decade, for we will fade into wine market
oblivion.
How do we choose though? The answer is quite simple. We dont. We try. South Africa
has a history of trying, sometimes failing miserably, but we also have a history of trying
and coming out victorious / with a glass of Pinotage in hand. Try the interesting Spanish
or Italian blends. Keep trying those spicy shirazes. And at the end of the day, decide on
what works best for you and your palate.