Hockey Socks

By Shelah Christie
Materials
Yarn:

Worsted weight Acrylic or Acrylic/Rayon blend yarn. Wool is too hot and heavy.
Commercially produced hockey socks are typically made using an Acrylic/Rayon blend.
You could certainly also use a yarn with some Nylon. Be sure the yarn you choose has
significant stretch! (Look for yarn with good twist.)
o You will need a bit more than one 100g skein for both socks, plus contrast
colour/s (specific amount needed depends on how much of each colour you
want).
o If you are making your socks based on a specific team, use their colours. This is
a great stash-busting project, so if you dont have the exact colours, look up that
teams vintage colours. If you arent constrained by specific colours, the sky is
the limit!
Waste yarn for provisional cast on.

Needles:
You may choose to work this pattern in the round on 12-16 circular needles, or on
longer needles using the magic loop method, or on DPNs. Needle size used for my
socks is 3.5mm use the needles that get you the same gauge!
You will need an additional circular needle (preferably same size or smaller, length not
important) for joining provisional cast on.
Crochet hook (if doing your provisional cast on in the crochet chain manner).
Notions:
3 stitch markers.

Darning needle.

MC main colour
BOR beginning of round
K1P1 knit 1, purl 1

Abbreviations

SSK slip, slip, knit slipped

stitches together
K2tog knit two stitches together
SM slip marker

Gauge
23 Stitches and 33 Rows over 10cm in stockinette.

Finished Dimensions
Novice:
20 long
5 across the top
4 across the bottom

Atom & Peewee:

22 long
6 across the top
4 across the bottom

Instructions
The Top Cuff:
Provisionally cast on 64 (68) stitches using your preferred method in MC. I used the
crochet provisional cast on.
Join to knit in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place a unique marker to
mark BOR. Knit in stockinette (knit every row if knitting in the round, knit one row,
purl one row if knitting flat) for 1.
Next round increase by 6 (8) stitches evenly throughout round; 70 (76) stitches total.
Purl one round.
K1P1 ribbing for 1.
Place provisional stitches onto spare needle. Join both sets of stitches by knitting
together one stitch from each needle. At the same time, keep in mind that your
provisional stitches are 6 fewer you will need to knit these six stitches individually
spaced evenly throughout the round. Place one marker 17 stitches from the beginning
of round and 17 stitches from end of round.
The Body:
Continue knitting in stockinette with MC for 2.2. Knit to first marker. Slip marker, ssk.
Knit to two stitches prior to next marker, K2tog, knit to end of round.
While working in colour changes (and being mindful of the jog), continue the previous
step 5 (6) more times 58 (62) stitches. Work a further 2.2. Your sock should measure
approximately 16.5 (18.75).
Depending on the length of your repeats, you can either choose to carry the colours
along (if they are short enough), or clip after each colour change and weave in the ends.
If you are cutting your colours, I strongly suggest weaving in the ends as you go.
The Bottom Cuff:
Work one round in stockinette while decreasing 8 (10) stitches evenly throughout the
round. 50 (52) stitches remain.
Work remaining 50 (52) stitches in K1P1 ribbing until sock measures 20 (22) from top
to bottom. Bind off using the Shetland Bind Off or preferred stretchy bind off.
Finishing:
Weave in all ends. Skate, skate, skate!