9

NATIONAL CUISINES
1

Hungarian Cuisine
1.1
The origins of Hungarian cuisine
1.2
Basic ingredients and cooking methods
1.3
Sample recipes of Hungarian specialities

British cuisine
2.1
The history of British cuisine and new trends
2.2
Traditional British cuisine
2.3
Modern British cuisine
2.4
Sample recipes of traditional dishes

Questions and Topics for Discussion

1. Describe the most important influences on Hungarian cuisine.
2. Which Hungarian cooking methods are unique?
3. List and describe typical Hungarian dishes.
4. What are the most popular British foods?
5. Why have oriental and Asian foods become popular in Britain?

1 HUNGARIAN CUISINE
1.1 THE

ORIGINS OF

HUNGARIAN

CUISINE

Throughout its history Hungarian cuisine has been subject to continuous outside
influences, including the Tartars, Turks, Germans, Austrians, Czechs, Slovaks,
Serbs, Croatians and even the Russians. Nevertheless, these influences have
always been transformed into something truly Hungarian. For example, the
Turkish phyllo pastry became strudel, and the Italian gnocchi, first introduced to
Hungary by the Italian wife of the Renaissance King Matthias, served as the basis
for many different kinds of dumplings and noodles.
The traditions of Hungarian cuisine were established by our nomadic ancestors
who grazed their cattle on the Asian steppes, and some of the eating habits of
the nomadic tribes can still be observed today. The oldest Hungarian meals bear
the character of the nation: they are exciting, provocative and very inventive.
Soup plays an important role: it is often the only course, so it must be substantial
and rich, containing meat, vegetables and noodles. The stock, the seasoning,
and sometimes the meal itself are the same as those enjoyed by the nomads. In
Hungarian cuisine some well-known dishes, such as different kinds of stews
(gulys, prklt, tokny) can be traced back to the times of the nomadic tribes.
At that time sheep was a staple, cooked in a cauldron kettle, without onion or
paprika then. Another method was spit-roasting. The roasted lamb or mutton was
then placed on platters/wooden trenchers, to stop the juices from flowing over.
Of course they are used even today. Fish was another staple either as fish soup
(without paprika) or spit-roasted. Fish and meat were smoked to preserve them.
The ancient Hungarians also used another technique to preserve meat. Meat
cubes were first cooked then dried in the sun and sometimes pounded into a
powder, and then added to boiling water. This instant soup was very practical in
warfare. Dried pasta, for example, tarhonya (dried, granulated pasta made from
flour and eggs) was very practical because it could be put beneath the saddle in
a canvas bag: the Hungarians knew all there was to know about preserving food.
When the Hungarians settled in the Carpathian basin they tamed the wild boar,
and pork replaced sheep as a staple. Already at the time of the Conquest
Hungarians knew how to make wine, beer and vinegar. When the Hungarians
came here they found vineyards, planted first by the Romans, and they took over
the cultivation. Settlement and the adoption of Christianity called for a new way
of life, however. Villages were established, towns were built, and gradually the
first restaurants appeared. According to records, there was an inn in Esztergom
then the capital of Hungary as early as 1279. Furthermore, the monks at the
monastery founded by the king at Pannonhalma were obliged to provide
hospitality to pilgrims and travellers.
Cooks soon became artisans in their own right, obtaining tax concessions and
land for their services. Hungarians learned how to brew high quality beer from
Italian and German masters, although wine was more popular and its reputation
was carefully protected: it was forbidden to sell drink of foreign origin in
medieval Buda. During the reign of King Matthias great changes took place.
This highly educated and intelligent monarch reorganised his household in true
Renaissance fashion: alongside the arts, architecture, literature, and manners of

dress, culinary skills and traditions were also renewed. His wife arrived at the
Hungarian court accompanied by Italian bakers and apothecaries well versed in
the arts of sweet and dessertmaking. The kitchen had a large staff which
prepared roasted and grilled meats, and dishes stewed in wine, seasoned with
costly spices brought from Italy. There was high style dining in the kings court,
with majolica dishes, elegant cutlery and choirs for background music. Some
ingredients, like onions, garlic, turkey were also imported from Italy at that time.
A sixteenth-century book entitled The Art of Cookery includes about 700 recipes
requiring an amazing range of herbs and spices, from juniper seeds to rose oil.
The first mention of stuffed cabbage and layered cabbage, typical Transylvanian
dishes, may also be found here. One of the stories in the book about the oxroasting at a wedding has often been quoted, and by now has become almost a
legend. Between 40 and 50 cooks would be employed on the occasion of a
wedding. The body of an ox was left whole, and a nice fat sheep was inserted
into it, inside which there was a young calf, inside which was a capon. The whole
thing was then put on a spit. When the capon was done, the wedding celebration
could begin.
When the country was split into three sections in the 16th century, the nobility
both in Transylvania and in the north and west of the country under the
Hapsburgs invited French chefs, which had an important influence on our cuisine.
In the central region, under the Turkish rule some customs were preserved, and
some ingredients and dishes adopted. Corn, tomato and paprika were introduced
during the time of the Turks. They also brought in cherries and sour cherries.
Hungarian cuisine also took over some dishes from them: rice pilafs, lngos, and
a variety of stuffed vegetables including stuffed pepper, vegetable marrow,
kohlrabi, tomato, egg plant and grape leaves. The only exception is stuffed
cabbage, which was an ancient Hungarian dish.
By the 19th century Hungary had become so famous for its hospitality, good
food, and excellent wines that people came to Buda and Pest from all over
Europe especially to sample them. A row of hotels was built along the Danube
and elegant restaurants and coffee houses awaited the wealthy visitors. By the
turn of the century Hungarian confectionery was well established, and it has
maintained its reputation for exquisite products and fine craftsmanship until the
present day. By the end of the Millennium celebrations at the end of the last
century, Hungarian cuisine had become world famous, a reputation which it has
never lost.

1.2 BASIC

INGREDIENTS AND COOKING METHODS

Onions were first used during the time of Matthias, sent to the King as
a present from Italy. First they were used boiled, not fried. They were
used mainly in peasant cookery for some time.
Paprika was introduced during the Turkish era. Only common people
used it at first. It was only introduced to cookbooks later.
Corn came to Hungary in the 17th century (also called Turkish wheat).
Tomato was established during the time of the Turks.
Potatoes arrived in the late 18th century and were established in the
early 19th century.
Pork is typically roasted or slices are fried in breadcrumbs and or
minced and fried.

Beef is often used for stews and consomm. Chicken, duck, goose and
turkey are used for poultry dishes and goose liver is a true delicacy.
Poultry may be grilled, breaded, stuffed, or stewed for the famous
chicken papriks.

Stewing gives a special flavour, colour and consistency to numerous Hungarian

meat dishes. The stew base consists of finely chopped onion sauted in oil until
golden brown. It is removed from the flame, and paprika is sprinkled on it.
Usually crushed garlic is also added to the mixture. Game, especially venison,
hare, wild boar and partridge are marinated and matured in a special aromatic
pickling solution with fragrant herbs. There are many species of fish living in Lake
Balaton, the best known is pike-perch. Their mode of preparation differs from the
others the traditions have been developed by the Balaton fishermen. Roasted
on a spit on an open-fire or other roasted specialities are popular. Fish soup is
made from many different kinds of fish. The thick soup from pured small fish
would be delicious even without the added spices. Trout comes from the rivers of
the Northern Highland.
Typical vegetables include potatoes, beans and peas, less usual vegetables are
vegetable marrow, sorrel, kohlrabi, savoy cabbage. Vegetables are braised and
dusted or thickened with roux or served with sour cream. Pasta dishes
served as a garnish or dessert are: noodles as soup garnishes, hot noodles for
dessert (poppy seed noodles, vargables), dumplings as a garnish, small egg
dumplings like gnocchi (galuska), and sweet dumplings for dessert (plum, apricot
dumpling).
Hungary has a wide selection of wines to offer, it is not difficult to find a wine
that goes well with any meal. Of the many Hungarian wines the most famous is
Tokaj, which has borne the title King of Wines, Wine of Kings for centuries. The
most valuable of the Tokajs is the asz, and of this type the more puttony or
baskets used for gathering the late harvested, sweet grape the more expensive
the wine. Also highly popular is the Tokaj Szamorodni, which comes in sweet,
medium or dry forms. The best-known of the Hungarian red wines from Eger,
Szekszrd and Pcs regions include Eger Bulls Blood, Merlot, Villny Burgundy
and Villny Oport. From among the whites perhaps the most famous ones
originate from the grapes cultivated on the volcanic hillsides of the Balaton
Uplands: Badacsony Riesling, Badacsony Szrkebart, Kknyel, but also popular
are those from the slopes of the Mtra Hills such as the Abasr Riesling.

1.3 SAMPLE

RECIPES OF

HUNGARIAN

SPECIALITIES

LECS STEW
Ingredients:
1 medium onion, 2 tbsp of oil, 6 green peppers, 4 tomatoes,
1 cup rice, salt.
Slice the onion and fry in hot oil. Meanwhile, remove the seeds and membranes
from the peppers and cut into rings or pieces, and chop the tomatoes. Add the
tomato, then the green peppers to the onion and let them soften. After 1/2 hour
add the rice and the salt to taste. Simmer, cover and braise until the rice is
cooked and the tomato pulpy.
Makes 2 servings
HUNGARIAN GOULASH

Ingredients:
9 oz onions, 5 oz smoked bacon (finely diced), 1 tablespoon red paprika, 7 oz
lean beef, cut into small pieces, potatoes, salt, marjoram, caraway seeds, garlic
(optional)
Saut onion and bacon; add garlic if desired. Stir in red paprika and immediately
add not quite 1 1/4 cups of water. Add beef, potatoes, salt, marjoram and
crushed caraway seeds. Replace lid, and pressure-cook for 15 minutes.
Makes 4 servings.
POPPY SEED MOON CAKE (Mkosbeigli)
These cakes date back to before Christianity as the poppy was dedicated to the
Moon goddess. The seeds are still called Moon seeds in German. The recipes
are handed down by the women. The Moon cakes are now usually made around
Christmas time when all the fancy baking is done. Poppy seeds should be finely
ground. As the seeds grind well, you can also grind your own seeds in a coffee
grinder, which will make a big difference in the texture.
These cakes can be wrapped in foil and stored in the freezer after they are
baked.

2 BRITISH CUISINE
2.1 THE

HISTORY OF

BRITISH

CUISINE AND NEW TRENDS

The Industrial Revolution that began in Britain in the 18th century is responsible
for the former poor reputation of British food. Unlike the populations of most
other countries, by the mid-19th century the majority of the British population
were working in city factories and living in very poor housing. The new working
classes had lost touch with the land and the standard of cooking declined as a
result. In the home, food was indeed frequently reduced to "meat and two veg",
perhaps with stews and soups. The rationing of most foods during and for some
years after World War II did little to help the situation, though it did raise the
average nutritional standards of the population to levels never previously
achieved from which they have since declined. However post-war population
movements, foreign holidays and immigration to the UK led to increasing
influences from former colonies e.g. India, and from Europe, particularly France
and Italy. Italian-American influence is now ubiquitous and pasta or pizza make a
significant contribution to many diets. Spaghetti bolognese has been a common
family meal in Britain since at least the 1960s. More recently there has been a
huge growth in the popularity of dishes like chicken tikka masala and lemon
chicken, dishes with Indian and Chinese origins respectively, though modified to
suit British tastes. Indeed, chicken tikka masala was first prepared in London
rather than in India. The British curry is far hotter and spicier than the traditional
North Indian variety. Nowadays oven-ready meals which, often cooked by
microwave, have replaced "meat and two veg" in many homes.
Take-away food
The rise of the industrial revolution was also paralleled by the advent of takeaway foods such as fish and chips, mushy peas, and steak and kidney pie with
mashed potato (pie and mash) as the traditional options though the popularity of
the Indian and Chinese cuisines, has led to the introduction of ethnic take-away
foods.

2.2 TRADITIONAL BRITISH

CUISINE

Despite the fast-food reputation, traditional British cuisine has survived, largely
in the countryside and amongst the upper classes. The Sunday roast is perhaps
the biggest culinary indication of a traditional household. The Sunday dinner
traditionally begins with a Yorkshire pudding either as a first course or as part of
the main meal, followed by a joint of meat and vegetables. The commonest
joints are beef, lamb or pork; chicken is also popular. Since its wide-spread
availability after World War II the most popular Christmas roast is turkey. Game
meats such as venison are traditionally the domain of the higher classes. Game,
while being a classic English preserve, is not generally eaten in the average
household. At home, the British have many original home-made desserts such as
rhubarb crumble, bread and butter pudding, spotted dick and trifle. The
traditional accompaniment is custard, known as crme anglaise (English sauce)
to the French. The dishes are simple and traditional, with recipes passed on from
generation to generation. The pudding tradition reaches its height with the
Christmas pudding.

At teatime, traditional British fare includes scones with butter and jam, as well as
assorted biscuits and sandwiches. A unique sandwich filling is Marmite, a dark
brown savoury spread made from yeast extract, with a strong, salty taste. A
hand-made favourite is butterfly cake. Some schools teach young children how to
bake such sweets during cookery lessons. Tea is consumed throughout the day
and is sometimes drunk with meals, especially at teatime. Coffee is much less
common than in continental Europe. However, coffee is rising in popularity (and
quality), while tea, though still an essential part of British life is less ubiquitous
than it was. In more formal contexts wine is generally served. The full English
breakfast or "cooked breakfast" also remains a culinary classic. Somerset
Maugham is quoted as saying "To eat well in England, you should have breakfast
three times a day". Fortunately it needs no longer be true.
Britons have developed alcoholic drinks like gin and whisky. For centuries, the
British market was the main customer of sweet wines like sherry, Port and
Madeira wine. British beers are praised by the natives, and there are still many
different breweries producing bitter in England.

2.3 MODERN BRITISH

CUISINE

The increasing popularity of celebrity chefs on television has fuelled a renewed

awareness of good food and "New British" cuisine has shaken off much of the
stodgy "fish and chips" image. The best London restaurants rival those anywhere
in the world, in both quality and price, and this influence is starting to be felt in
the rest of the country.
There has been a massive boom in restaurant numbers driven by a renewed
interest in quality food, possibly due to the availability of cheap foreign travel.
Organic produce is increasingly popular.
There has also been a quiet revolution in both quality and quantity of places to
dine out in Britain, in particular, the humble Public House has been transformed
in the last twenty or so years. Many have made the transition from eateries of
poor reputation to rival the best restaurants very often they now are the best
restaurants in smaller towns. The term "Pub Grub", once derogatory, can now be
a sign of excellent value and quality dining.
Modern British cuisine is not so much a revival of old dishes, but a reinterpretation, often with an element of fusion, taking the best of traditional
stews, roasts, pies and puddings and re-inventing them. Succulent lamb shanks,
juicy beef roasts, savoury pies celebrate the hearty dishes of yesteryear, but
bring them into the new millennium with an imaginative twist. A new spice or
herb, an imaginative accompaniment, unusual vegetables, all bring new interest
to dishes that had been ruined for many of us by the old institution of school
dinners. Steak and kidney pie, bubble and squeak, Lancashire hotpot, steamed
puddings and their ilk have been rescued from the dreary catering trays of
school kitchens and given new life with skilful cooking and interpretation.
The strength of British cuisine has always been in its fine ingredients: excellent
beef and lamb, wonderful pork sausages and pies and a good variety of fish from
the seas surrounding the island. The organic food movement and a return to slow
food with its emphasis on humanely reared, quality meat also went hand in hand
with the success of modern British cuisine. The simple unfussy cooking of many
dishes requires that the ingredients be as fresh and tasty as they can be. There

are few sauces to disguise indifferent meat and a more informed public knows
that locally sourced, organically produced food tastes better. Most restaurants
that produce modern British cuisine will pride themselves on sourcing ingredients
locally and cooking seasonally.
Food programmes with well-known celebrity chefs like Jamie Oliver, Nigella
Lawson, Gordon Ramsey, Heston Blumenthal and the growing number of Michelin
starred restaurants help to change the relatively poor international reputation of
the British culinary art.

2.4 SAMPLE

RECIPES OF TRADITIONAL DISHES

SHEPHERDS PIE
Ingredients:
1 tbsp vegetable oil
red onion, peeled and chopped
1 garlic, peeled and crushed
170g/6oz minced pork
2 tbsp red wine
beef stock cube
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp sugar
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp hot water
For the mash
large potato, peeled and chopped
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a large non-stick frying pan and fry the onion and garlic for 2-3
minutes to soften.
Add the pork and fry for a few minutes to brown. Stir in the wine and crumble in
the stock cube. Add the soy sauce, sugar, balsamic vinegar and splash of hot
water. Heat gently for 10-12 minutes, or until cooked through. Bring a pan of
water to the boil and blanch the potato for 8-10 minutes. Drain the potatoes and
return to the pan. Add the butter, cream and seasoning and mash together until
smooth and creamy. Spoon the mince into a large chef's ring on a serving plate.
Top with the mashed potato and then remove the ring. Serve at once.
HAGGIS
Ingredients:
1 sheep's stomach or ox secum, cleaned and thoroughly scalded, turned inside
out and soaked overnight in cold salted water
heart and lungs of one lamb
450g/1lb beef or lamb trimmings, fat and lean
2 onions, finely chopped
225g/8oz oatmeal
1 tbsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground dried coriander
1 tsp mace
1 tsp nutmeg
water, enough to cook the haggis
stock from lungs and trimmings
Wash the lungs, heart and liver (if using). Place in large pan of cold water with
the meat trimmings and bring to the boil. Cook for about 2 hours. When cooked,
strain off the stock and set the stock aside. Mince the lungs, heart and
trimmings. Put the minced mixture in a bowl and add the finely chopped onions,

oatmeal and seasoning. Mix well and add enough stock to moisten the mixture. It
should have a soft crumbly consistency. Spoon the mixture into the sheep's
stomach, so it's just over half full. Sew up the stomach with strong thread and
prick a couple of times so it does not explode while cooking. Put the haggis in a
pan of boiling water (enough to cover it) and cook for 3 hours without a lid. Keep
adding more water to keep it covered. To serve, cut open the haggis and spoon
out the filling. Serve with neeps (mashed swede or turnip) and tatties (mashed
potatoes).
YORKSHIRE PUDDING
Ingredients:
vegetable oil
290ml/ pint milk
4 eggs, beaten
255g/9 oz plain flour, sifted
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7. Grease a Yorkshire pudding tin with a little
vegetable oil. Place the tin in the oven to preheat. Place the milk, eggs and
seasoning in a bowl. Stir well to combine. Whisk in the flour. Remove the tin from
the oven. Pour in the batter, filling each case only three quarters full. Place the
tin in the oven and bake for 10 minutes, or until puffy and raised. Remove the
puddings from the oven and serve.
CHOCOLATE MUFFINS
Ingredients:
55g/2 oz butter, softened
85g/3 oz brown sugar
1 egg, beaten
110g/4 oz plain flour, sifted
85ml/3fluid oz whole milk
2 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp cocoa powder, sifted
Preheat oven to 250C/500F/Gas 9. Place the butter, sugar, egg and flour in a food
processor and blend. Add the milk, baking powder and cocoa and blend. Grease
a muffin tin before spooning the muffin mix into six of its cases. Place the muffins
in the oven and bake for 12 minutes, or until risen and cooked through. Remove
the muffins from the oven and leave to cool before lifting the muffins out of the
tin.