Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Synchronome
Synchronome
258
THE
SVNCHRONOME
SYSTEM.
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AlTERNATIVE
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BEARING PILLARS
1 OFF Each Mild Steel
3 1~ X 112" MILD
STEEL
MAGNET PILLAR
1 OFF Mild Steel
8 X 2BA COUNTER
SINK OR CAP
HEAD SCREWS
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COVER PLATE
1 OFF Mild Steel
given dimensions would not be permissible. As it is. with only one clock at a time
being made, an odd '/,s of an inch here,
perhaps even a quarter inch there , can
usually be accommodated by a slight alteration to the matching parts. all within
reason of course.
Returning, then , to our casting , we see
that on the rear face there are a number of
raised pads, eight in all. which serve to
keep the backplate from touching the
back of the case . In an ideal world . all
eight of these pads would touch a plane
surface simultaneously. but we will do well
to content ourselves with obtaining contact at three points only, provided that
they are three symmetrically disposed
points , e.g. the large top circular pad and
the two triangular side pads would be
ideal. Lay the casting on the best plane
surface you have available - a large surface plate , a piece of plate glass, a machine
table or, failing all else , a good wooden or
plastic table top , but do check this latter
with a straight edge in all directions. The
casting will probably rock slightly on the
plate and it will be necessary to file away
the high points until the desired pads bed
down evenly . Use an old file since there
will probably be some sand or other abrasive particles in the skin of the casting ; and
a file once used on rough cast iron will
never be of much use on any other material.
With the back bedded down satisfactorily , we can now turn the casting so that it is
front uppermost and machine or file the
three main rectangular bosses to the
heights shown on the drawing. I was able
to machine mine using a Westbury vertical
milling machine, but careful work with a
file will give perfectly adequate results.
Do take care if filing to keep the surfaces
flat and parallel to the baseplate , as any
errors here will make fitting of the pivot
plates very troublesome later on. Do not
worry unduly if the bosses will not clean
up to the exact dimensions shown , there is
plenty of room for adjustment in all directions and it is far better to concentrate on
achieving a truly flat and parallel surface
than to fuss about the exact height of each
boss . The thin raised magnet boss adjacent to the rectangular hole in the baseplate does not really need machining,
although on the example of the clock on
which most of this series is based, the top
surface of this block had been filed smooth
and polished, giving a very handsome
appearance.
The two uppermost brackets which
form the pendulum trunnion are next to
receive attention. Even with a milling
machine available , the effort in setting the
casting up is hardly warranted and it will
be quite sufficient to clean both the upper
trunnion surfaces with a file. Try to keep
both surfaces square, parallel and the
same height, as any discrepancy here will
put a permanent set in the pendulum suspension spring. This , although not disastrous, is undesirable and is best avoided if
possible.
The remaining operations on the casting all involve drilling; and for those not
used to working in cast iron , a few words
of warning are probably advisable. Firstly,
cast iron must be drilled dry- any attempt
to use cutting lubricant of any sort will
29 7
result in the most fearful gooey mess. Secondly, cutting speeds must be kept very
low- at least half the speed normally used
for mild steel -and preferably even lower
than this. On my half-inch capacity drilling
machine I find that the lowest speed of
about 400 rpm is about right for most
drills larger than about "/,s" diameter and
for anything above about %" diameter. r
usually transfer to either the lathe or the
milling machine where l have slower back
gear speeds available. And , one final word
of warning, do remember that cast iron is a
brittle material , particularly in thin sections such as we have here. Therefore ,
when using a centre punch to mark hole
positions, treat the material gently and
where possible support the casting directly
underneath the punch.
In point of fact, not too many of the
holes should be drilled at this stage , as
most are best left until we are ready to fit
the mating parts . Those that can be drilled
now are the fixing screw holes to hold the
backplate into the wooden clock case.
These should go through the three pads
which have been 'bedded down ' and they
should be of suitable size to take No. 10 or
No . 8 round head wood screws - 3/,s"
diameter is about right. Next, we can drill
the four holes on the top of the pendulum
trunnion blocks. I pride myself that I can
usually scheme up some sort of machine
setting to deal with most operations, but in
this case 1 admitted defeat and put the
holes in using a portable electric drill .
Mine has a speed control trigger on it and
by keeping it half pressed I was able to
keep the drilling speed well down to suit
the cast iron. These holes are tapped 4 BA
for the pendulum suspension clamps.
Two quite important holes which can
also be drilled now are those for the electromagnet cores. Again a machine set up
is difficult , but in view of the importance
of accuracy here it is probably worthwhile
to take the trouble to get it right. My drilling machine has a table which can be
titled to any angle , together with a peg
which Jocks it exactly parallel to the vertical axis of the machine, so I did not have
too much trouble here. An alternative
would have been to pack the casting up on
the cross slide of the lathe to the correct
height and put the drill in the headstock
chuck. Failing either of these methods, the
electric drill would have had to suffice , but
care would have been needed to keep both
holes parallel both to each other and to the
base . A point here for the purists - the
magnet cores pull up into the holes against
a shoulder. Since the block on the casting
has a very slight taper to allow the 'draw'
in extracting the pattern from the mould
when casting, the holes should be slightly
counterbored or spot faced to allow the
magnet cores to sit down squarely. In
practice , a slight touch with a standard 5/,s"
twist drill at each end of both holes will
give a good seating to both the magnet
core and its fixing screw.
All of the other holes are best left for
the moment while we turn our attention to
the all important pendulum.
Castings in soft grey iron for the backplate and pendulum bob can be obtained
from : The College Engineering Supply , 8
The Pines, Finchfield , Wolverhampton ,
West Midlands WV3 9HD.
j'
BOB EXPANDS
BOTH UP AND
DOWN FROM
THIS POINT
NILO ROD
33 1
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II
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BOB
CAST BRASS
IRON
ROD
NILO
MILD STEEL
38" 38''
43 112 42'
LENGTH OF ROD L
PENDULUM ROD
1 OFF Mild Steel or Nilo
and this is fairly easy to make on a lathe of
about 3" centres and upwards. The shell of
the bob is a length of brass tube of about
18 or 16 gauge, and 2'/2' diameter. If a
fixed steady of this capacity is available ,
the tube can be supported in this while the
ends are trued up by facing. Otherwise ,
two tight fitting wooden discs should be
tapped into the tube and a length of
threaded rod (studding) passed through
the discs to support the tube between the
chuck and the tailstock while the ends are
turned true .
Two endcaps are made from "/,a" thick
PENDULUM BOB
1 OFF Cast Iron
1tfi
BA
II
FILLED BOB
'--=-==_-_-_-_-_-_-_--_-_-_-_-_--_-_-_-_-_-_-~-F-~~~-.~j
-=--=--=--- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - -
-""
7116
G.
3/s F~ LEAD
FILLED BOB
11/;
SPH
ll
~BA
WASHER
1 OFF Brass
My normal tapping size for 2 BA in steel
is a No. 24 drill , but here it will pay to open
the hole size to (say) No . 22 to give the tap
a better chance. Bear in mind that
although the drill expands when hot the
Nilo does not , so do keep it cool!
The rating nut for either style of pendulum is straightforward and calls for little
comment. On precision regulator clocks ,
it is often the custom to fit rating nuts with
large diameter engraved micrometer type
dia ls, but this was not the case with the
Synchronome, neither is such sop histication rea ll y necessary. The rating nut on a
clock is rather like the adjustments on the
driving seat of a new car- for the first two
weeks, the proud new owner fidd les mad ly
with every control in sight, then he gets it
right and the adjustments are left completely untouched for remainder of the life
of the machine. Even so , it will be found
helpful to put at least one mark or line on
the rating nut to assist in the initial setting
up.
Turning now to the upper end of the
pendulum. we can make the brass block
which fixes the suspension spring to the
pendulum rod. On many clocks such as the
END CAP
1 OFF Brass
the 3-jaw chuck, with about 1'/." protruding. Tum a lf," length to just under lf2'
diameter (i.e ., until the flats on the rod
just disappear) and at the same setting
drill ' %" for '/2' deep. Open out this hole
with a sma Uboring tool to a close fit on the
pend ulum rod; part off about 1" long. File
or mill away half of the square portion.
2 SCREWS
6BA C'SK
PENDULUM ROD
SPRING BLOCK
1 OFF Brass
333
Part Four
The suspension spring on which th e pendulum hangs is made from a piece of
0.005" thick spring steeL '/2' wide . So me
clock builders seem to have difficulty in
obtaining this material , but failin g a suitab le suppl y from a clockmakers' ma teria l
deal e rs. a n ordinary feeler ga uge of th e
cor rect thickn ess is ideal materi a l - ca r
accesso ry shops sell these of co urse . but it
m ay not be ge nerall y known th at
e ngin eers too l suppl y house s stock feeler
strip in both 12" a nd 25 ft lengths in a ll of
the co mm o n thicknesses. The ac tu a l
FIXED CI-()P
/LOOSE CHOP
SUSPENSION
SPRING
TOP BLOCK
PENDULUM ROD
365
SILVER SOLDER
I'
2 HOLESNo
AND C'SK
2 HOLES
33
TAP 6BA
LOOSE CHOP
1 OFF Brass
FIXED CHOP
1 OFF Brass
SUSPENSION SPRING
1 OFF Spring Steel (0.005" thick)
screws - when we are finally happy with
the length of the rod and the fit , etc ., the
block may be removed from the rod a nd
the marks left by the screws ca n be
en larged with a round file to form a groove
round the rod in the right place- this will
make su re that the rod cannot pull out
from its suspension by accident.
The drawing of the two cl a mps that hold
the suspension cross pin to the casting is
se lf explanatory. The two lit tle washers
a re mad e 'Is'' long to correspond with the
thickness of the ends of th e cross p in and
the two 4 BA st ud s may be held in the
tapped holes in the casting with a dab of
ing would have bee n used origin a ll y. fabrication is not too difficult if it is carried
out systematically. As before. we start
wi th a cylindrical portion , '/,s'' diameter ;
this is left slightly overle ngth and drilled in
the lathe to a close fit on the pend ulum
rod. If a rea me r or O-bit of the correct size
is available , use this by all means , o r eve n a
small boring tool , but th e fit on the rod
need not be too exact as we will split the
component and fit a pinch scre w in due
course.
The remaind er of the pallet can be
made from a piece of brass bar '/" thick x
%" wide. To ge t a good fi t on the cy lindri-
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IMPULSE PALLET
1 OFF Brass
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366
356
Part Five
Various methods were at different times
used to attach the gat he ring jewel wire to
the impulse pa ll et. The method I have
selected is to my mind about the ne atest.
since it both supports the wire very freely
while at the sa me time giving a very simple
method of accurately adjusting the depth
of engagement of the jewe l with the teeth
on th e count wheel. The fixing is. in fact.
nothing more involved than a cheese
headed 5 BA screw with a slot cut into the
edge of the head for sli ghtl y more than
half the diameter. A smal l hol e is drilled
axially right through the screw, large
enough to clear the thickne ss of the wire
used for the jewel support. The slot is at
</J 11:32
{ . -~......--<P 1fi6 JEWEL OR
====I~
SILVER STEEL
11
.~
~~ SLIT 1132
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1.:__3'"--s
i3
GATHERING JEWEL
1 OFF Jewel or Silver Steel
COUNT WHEEL
1 OFF Brass ('/,." thick)
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13
th e most co mpl ex . si nce it carries the be a rings fo r three se parate compo ne nts: th e
co unt wheel , th e co unt wheel click roll e r,
a nd th e grav ity a rm catch. The d es ign for
this particular pivot plate is differe n t to
that fo un d on man y Synchronomc clocks,
but it is the one that was used o n o ne of my
prototypes and I have adopted it becau se
it enables the actio n of the click roller to
be see n clea rl y. The mo re usua l design
adop ted by Synchronomc , althou g h of a
sli ghtl y more e lega nt shape, hid es t he click
ro ll e r comp lete ly. The plate sho uld be
marked out and saw n ca re full y to size,
using th e piercin g saw as previously. T he
three pivot hol es ma y be drilled usin g a
No . 55 or a %.'' dr ill and th e fixing hole for
a -1 B A screw may be put in at this stage
s,;lfr
1t]
['~
>PRESS
IN WHEELFIT
~
TAP BBA
DRILL ~3132
WHEEL COLLET
1 OFF Brass
-~ DRILL 3164
L.
BEARING BUSH
5 OFF Brass
BEARING PLATE
1 OFF Brass ('/,." thick)
WHEEL ARBOR
1 OFF Silver Steel
ibl e u sin g a ve r y
fin e f il e f o ll o wed by
14
Continued on page 23
23
Part Six
Before carryi ng on with further constructional details of o ur clock , I must apo logise to those readers who are experiencing
difficulty in obta inin g supp lies of su itab le
materials for thi s project. It had been my
intention to provide a list of suppli e rs to
acco mpany the first article , but in the rush
of preparing to meet the press date, this
list somehow got omitted from th e rest of
text . However, the list is appended at the
end of this article a nd hopefully constr uctors will now be ab le to obta in a ll the
awkward little items that seem to be causin g difficulty.
Last month, we were left with a complete pendulum and count wheel capable
of turnin g one tooth at each complete
swing of the pendulum . T o comp lete this
ADJUST TO NEARLY
BALANCE
[J1J
WI~
FLATTEN END OF
TO RETAIN ROLLER
DETENT ARBOR
1 OFF Silver Steel
DETENT ROLLER
1 OFF Glass & Silver Steel
(J3i32 PRESS
FIT ON ARBOR
FIT ON
ARBOR
POLISH
ACCELERATOR CATCH
1 OFF Carbon Steel (0 .040" thick)
(Harden right out and polish
as indicated)
34
CATCH ARBOR
1 OFF Silver Steel
shou ld continue to swing for a considerab le period , a t leas t three or four minutes,
befo re the sw in g decreases sufficie ntl y for
th e ga thering jewe l to cease gat he rin g.
The final part to be fitted to this pivot
pla te is th e catch which is used to retain
the gravi ty arm in its norm al horizo nt al
position. This is quit e a delicate little component, made from stee l about 0.030" to
how it was arra nged in the earlier Synchronome mode ls. I t was soon discovered ,
however, that this did no t always provide a
re liable retaining act ion fo r the grav ity
a rm a nd so an ass istin g sp rin g was added
to make su re th e catch did not bounce out
of position. The o ri gin al spring was a fair ly
complex coil wound around the ca tch
spi ndl e; I have fo und it easier to depart
-PENDULUM ROD
-ACCELERATOR CATCH
\
\
- IMPULSE ROLLER
\
\
\
I
I
- IMPULSE PALLET
35
c~N32
PRESS FIT
ON ARBOR
TAP
4BA
GRAVITY ARM
1 OFF Brass ('/a" thick)
that a bandsaw is idea l for jobs such as
this) and then bring the work to the co rrect size by filin g. One of the tri ck iest parts
is the little rectangular hole nea r the end
which is to provide clearance for the
spri ng leaf to engage wi th the catch
a lready made. Th is is best formed by dril-
IMPULSE ROLLER
1 OFF Silver Steel
SMALL HOLE TO
SUIT SLEEVE
OVER WIRE
INSUL ATION
BRASS
~1 ~:c~w~
-:-=-:.-----+1~
131
~,
END CHEEK
4 OFF Brass (1/,6" thick)
& 4 OFF lt;~sulation Material
MAGNET CORE
2 OFF Soft Iron or Mild Steel
a sp indle conveniently near to the la the.
and insulate th e first few inches of wire
with a piece of thin insulating sleeving. If
you have no stoc ks of this. a piece of the
cove ring from a thin flex will probably he
suitable. Pass thi s through th e hole in th e
end cheek from the inside. leaving abo ut
six inch es of wire free for th e connection
to be made later. Now holding the wire
firmly in the right hand. turn the lath e .
ma ndrel with left hand. guidi ng the wire .
o n eve nl y so th a t eac h turn is tight and
closely touching its neighbour. Carry on
until the first layer is completely filled
and the wire tries to overlap and sta rt a
second layer. At this point. put a brake on
the wire (a weight to hold the wire clown
to the lathe bed is probably favourite)
and cover th e first layer of wire with a
piece of thin paper. Tissue paper is quite
73
Part Eight
Before we get going this month. a quick
apo logy for a small discrepancy which
occurred in the two drawings of the
impulse pallet. Two differing sets of
dimensions were shown in parts 4 and 5the May and June issues- for the position
of the jewel wire holding screw. In fact.
either set of dimensions will work and the
difference arose because I used dimensions from two different clocks. as well as
the original Synchronome drawings.
Also this month. I include a drawi~g
which some how escaped earlier. that for
the pendulum support clamp .
SOUTH
NORTH
4 BA STUD
4BA WING
NUT
SPACER
1ts THICK
4314
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ARMATURE
1 OFF Mild Steel (Ya" thick)
TRUNNION ASSEMBLY
f=t=
fttj~
ARMATURE PIVOT
1 OFF Silver Steel
\ _ 4 BA CLEARANCE .
Hopefull y. by now we will have successfully wound the two coils and they
can be mounted in position on the baseplate and held in p lace with a 4 BA screw
in each. For the sake of appearance.
make sure that the join in the covering
materia l is at the back of the coil and
therefore not seen. The two coils are connected in se ri es in such a fashion as to
produce a North pole at the free end of
one core and a South pole at the other.
Contrary to what might be expected. this
involves joining the two start ends
together. rather than the finish of one coil
to the end of the other. This is made clear
in the drawing: and for those who still do
"I /DRESSMAKER'S
PIN
BENT TO FORM EYE
I' , I
- ~1
2 HOLES
1116
[ _
-T,S%10
4BA
<P 114
DRILL TO CLEAR
PINHEAD
11
rB
q,
rp1i16 -'-....
BBA
SPRING EYELET
1 OFF Brass
TENSION SPRING
1 OFF Spring Steel (31 SWG)
2 HOLES
TAP BBA
TAP BBA
8 BA CLEAR
ANCE C'SK -
_j
2 HOLES BBA CLEARANCE,
C'SK.TRANSFER TO
GRAVITY ARM
INSULATING BLOCK
1 OFF Ebonite
CONTACT SCREW
1 OFF Brass
STOP SCREW
3 OFF Brass
119
PLATINUM CONTACT
(SEE TEXT ) MARK
POSITION FROM
ARM ATURE
CONTACT STRIP
1 OFF Brass
half of the contact is made by a screw fitted into the upper end of th e armature
and so. before finally fitting the contact
material onto th e gravity arm. it will be
advisable to check its correct position
from the hole in the top end of the armature. Having marked the position of the
centre of the contact. the chosen contact
material can be either riveted or soft
so ldered into place on the brass strip . The
final job on the gravity arm is to drill and
tap an 8 BA hole in the top of the brass
con ta ct strip to take a binding screw for a
connecting wire.
The contact screw on the arma ture is a
straightforward turning job with the same
capstan head as we used before. The end
of the screw needs a precious meta l point
and this can be either a piece of silve r
wire about 11t6" diameter. or anotherofthe
rivets that was suggested for the gravity
arm contact.
BINDING POST
BACKPLATE
SPRING WASHER
\
LOCKNUT
~1/i.
M1Ji;
INSULATION BUSH
_ _t j .
~
2 OFF Tufnol
INSULATION
WASHER
4 OFF Tufnol
4 BA CLEARANCE
TAP 4 BA
FLEXIBLE WIRE
(SEE TEXT)
q,1fi.
cp 5116 ---c-..+.,---'-,----1r--
LOCKNUT
5 OFF Brass
4BA
PILLAR
3 OFF Brass
FINISH OF COIL
1"
J
.r N
;=:
2 HOLES
137
C/J 1116
WIRING CONNECTIONS
SCHEMATIC ONLY
I ------
-~--- - ,
'
There is always the possibility, discussed earlier in the series. that the
weight of the gravity arm is not quite
enough to keep the pendulum bob swinging continuously. This, of course. is a
function of both the weight of the gravity
arm and the weight of the pendulum bob
and if you are unfortunate enough to
have a combination which will not keep
going with the settings recommended
above, then extra weight will be needed at
the end of the gravity arm . Very little
additional weight is likely to be required
since the length of the arm multiplies the
effective force at the impulse roller.
Before you go mad and start drilling
holes all over the gravity arm in an
attempt to get a non-runner going. try the
effect of a few small steel washers held on
the left hand end of the gravity arm with
self adhesive tape. If these are effective.
gradually reduce the number until the
clock will just keep running. Having proved the point. the washers can then be
replaced by a permanent screw. with a
large head if necessary. of about the same
weight. If the weight is too heavy. then it is
quite likely that the armature will be unable to replace the gravity arm smartly
enough and extra voltage will be needed
on the coils to achieve the desired effect:
so do not be too eager to increase the
weight of the gra vity arm unnecessarily.
withe ld and one to connect the dial circuit directly to th e battery enabling
additional impulses to be transmitted at
will- the drawing should make this clear
- and anyone who is making this clock
purely as a functional device may well
choose to incorporate a system such as
thi s. When th e clock was first being
developed at the turn of the century. electrical switches and contacts were far less
reliable than the y are today: one has onl y
to examine old textbooks and other illustrations of early electrical equipment to
see the lengths to which designers would
go in an attempt to achieve reliability.
Frank Hope-Jones. the inventor of the
Synchronome system . was no exception
and he was always most insistent that the
number of contacts in his clock systems
was kept to an absolute minimum.
Although he was regarded by many of his
detractors as a very stubborn individual.
he maintained throughout his whole career that the master clock and impulse dial
system should contain no more than one
pair of contacts. that on the gravity arm
and armature.
Consequently. to provide variation in
the number of impulses sent to the dial
circuit. he resorted to purely mechanical
means and. after several false starts. he
finally settled on the system used in the
present master clock. This is basically
very simple and consists of a lever which
can be moved to any one of three
positions. Attached to the lever is a vertical rod. so shaped at its upper end that it
can contact the gathering jewel wire on
the impulse pallet. With this rod in its
N
R
IMPULSE DIALS
BATTERY TAPPED
AT 1112 VOLTS
S1 IS A SINGLE POLE CHANGEOVER SWITCH.AT N IT ALLOWS THE CLOCK AND
DIALS TO FUNCTION NORHALLY AT R IT DISCONNETS THE DIALS , AND
APPLIES REDUCED VOLTAGE TO THE MASTER TO ENABLE IT TO KEEP
RUNNING .
S2 IS A SPRING LOADED SWITCH OF THE BELL PUSH TYPE. EACH PRESS
Of THIS SWITCH APPLIES AN IMPULSE TO THE DIALS WITHOUT
AFFECTING THE RUNNING OF THE MASTER.
181
~~j6
'
KNOB
1 OFF Brass
ADVANCE LEVER
1 OFF Brass (Y,s" Thick)
i"rn
T
11;6
s,;6
s132
,,;6
31i6
ll
1fi6*4TAP
N6BA
1'9.: .;;
tr-
-~c
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ct> 1132
2BA
y~~i~
6BA
2 PINS
ct> 111"6
ADVANCE WIRE
1 OFF Steel (%z" Dia.)
2 HOLES C'SK
4 BA CLEARANCE
ADJUST TO FIT
INDICATOR PLATE
1 OFF Brass (Y,s" Thick)
ENGRAVED LETTERS FILLED BLACK
the matter of a suitable power supply.
These days we tend to think of mains
powered transformer-rectifier units. or
trickle charged secondary cells for any
stationary apparatus such as this. but
such sophistication is really quite
uncalled for. The master clock consumes
a very small amount of power at each
impulse and there is such a (relatively)
long recovery time between impulses that
dry cells are more than capable of supplying the clock for long periods of time.
The main trouble. of course. is that the
traditional dry cells fitted with screw terminals are not readily available from
most electrical suppliers. However.
Messrs Ever Ready still do make single
dry cells of a suitable type and these
CROSS-
,,,6
3
13211F
HOLE
SPACER
1 OFF Mild Steel
SHOULDER SCREW
1 OFF Mild Steel
TAP 6BA
_8_2_ _ __
__
THE
[ August ,
1<) 20.
DRY CELLS
NEGATIVE
WIRE
FOR
CASE OF 11S
PLYWOOD
COVER WITH
BLACK PAPER
ELECTRIC CLOCKS
Reliability and
Durability
SQDER
TO BASE
OF CELL
HP2 OR R20B
DRY CELL
degree.
For 25 years these cells have successfully
REMOVABLE
WOODEN PLUG
of current for
distributors.
1'\ANUFACTURED
IN
actuating
HUNDREDS
electrical
OF
time
SIZES.
SIEMENS BROTHERS
Co., Ltd.,
&
manuracturtrs,
WOOLWICH,
Tdevram1:
SIEMENS WOOLWICH.
LONDON , S.E.8.
Telephone:
CITY 6400.
183
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9"
1''12
51'~
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12
ADVANCE WIRE GUIDE
1 OFF Brass
'-
-'
,_
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-;---
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CASE
Mahogany or Oak
FINISH: French polish or cellulose lacquer
202
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1.
3"
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DOOR
Mahogany or Oak (%"thick)
203
,,;6
1'
/4
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ENLARGED DETAIL
OF MOULDING
too thp as te and. although it is quite
ex pe nsive. it is ve ry eco no mi ca l in use.
The o th e r brass parts a re a ll fini s hed in
sim il ar mann er. e ith er stra ight grained o r
poli shed as appro pri a te. ~ ~
To protect cleaned brass from tarnish ing. instrument work such as thi s was
trad itionally a lways lacquered us ing an
ora nge coloured lacq uer made from
s he llac. Lacquering in this mann e r was
(and is) quite an art and it needs a fair
degree of experience to achieve good
res ult s. Th e lacqu er must be of very high
quality. as mu st th e brush used to apply
it. a nd the work nee d s to be wa rm ed to
exactly the ri g ht tempe rature to ca use the
lacqu er to n ow freely. In view of these difficultie s. suppli ers now offer so-ca lled
co ld' lacquers which are much eas ier to
ap pl y and the va ri ety so ld as 'Gold
Lacquer' has the right so rt of orange tint.
Other lacqu e rs and varnishes s uch as
Canning's 'E rca le ne o r 'Frigilene' are
easily applied with a spray gun and give
exce llent long las ting res ults. but th ey do
lack the authentic golden-orange colour.
One or two corresponde~1tS have
ex pressed difficult] in ob tain ing supp lies
of th e thin s lee ving fo r insulating the
ends of their co ib. In m y loca l garden
shop (it i~ s carc~ l y la rge enough to
qualify for th e name of garden centre) I
rec e ntly purchased a reel o f thin iron
ty ing wire. covered with a green plastic
co at ing. Thi s coating is eas il y pulled off
in quit e long lengths. giving a ve ry u seful
plastic sleeve of about 1/zmm bore. just
right in both colour and si ze for insulatin~g our coil ends; and the iro n wire le ft
after stripping is ideal for tyin g things
toge th e r when si lve r soldering or
brazing.
Anct'that then ju st about completes our
Sy nchronom e patte rn electric mas ter
cl oc k. There remain s. of course. the
necessa ry impul se dial or dial s on which
to regi ste r th e ac tual tim e: and after a
sho rtbreak I s hall with the Editor's permi ss ion. describe th e construction of an
a uth e nti c impul se dial base d o n the
original Sy nchro nom e pattern a nd capable o f driving a dial of up to about 15"
diameter. One dial of about 7" di a m ete r
was. o f co urse. always fitted in th e case of
th e ma ster cl oc k and man y constructors
will no doubt feel that th e ir clock is
incomplete without this d ial.
Fin a lly. m y thank s are d ue to the TannSynchronome Company for th eir kind ness in a llowing me to publi s h this series
and to Mr. John Plai ste r and Group
Capt. P. Wills. MBHI. for th e ir va luabl e
ass ista nce and encouragement.