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Instruction Book For The Standard Tailor System PDF
Instruction Book For The Standard Tailor System PDF
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The
Library of
Congress
http://www.archive.org/details/instructionbookfOOevan
INSTRUCTION BOOK
FOR THE
...STANDARD...
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9.{
TAILOR SYSTEM...
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A SELF-INSTRUCTOR
g/yrfv'
WITH
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IN
Cutting
U-
all
L<7
mm
THE ART OF
Styles of Garments,
FOR
and
Infants.
fa
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO, ILL.
CO.,
'ooo
V
1
,.
?;-
The Standard
Tailor
System
The
two
Tailor's Square has joined to its inner edge a set of curves used instead of a
Infive
point,
compass to
The square
obtain curves for outlines, and these curves are lettered in alphabetic order.
and
of Thirty-four Scales
ot the
side
is
also
square indi-
to be used, and these are again given in the diagrams to aid the learner in finding the proper
The
are,
Scales
their
and
Illustrations
and Diagrams of
ladies' gentlemen's,
infants' garments.
The Object Lesson Square, Scales and Rulers are to aid the learner
in self-instruction
The method of teaching by Object Lessons and by Object Lesson Appliances through the Instruction
Book is entireiy new and a marvel of simplicit\ It makes" drafting so easy to learn that anyone, even with
r
ability,
in
There are no problems to work and nothing to commit to memory, consequently nothing to forget.
and
all styles
the most artistic and stylish ladies' garments, to boy's jackets and men's shirts and pants,
making
the System complete for family use as well as for the professional cutter.
demand.
Office,
Chicago,
III.
EVAN
CO.,
General Supply
Office,
Winneconne, Wis.
Taking Measures.
Directions for
is,
a correct result
Difficult
rectly
is
very essential,
rt is
little
may
be taken cor-
by any one.
All desired
If
All
measures
Bust Measure.
/.
fullest
little
Waist Measure.
2.
tight.
Length of Under=Arm.
Let the person measured hold the arm
down
in
a natural position
and
it
4.
line
directly
little
down
to waist-line.
If
measuring
for outside
shorter.
Length of Back.
Take length of waist
in the
EXTRA MEASURES.
While the foreging are the necessary measures for
ditional measures
may
Basques and
6.
all
difficult
result as correctly
for
taken measures.
Width of Chest.
Let the person measured stand naturally erect, measure across chest from arm's-eye to arm's-eye.
7.
Width of Back.
In
same position
of arm's-eye.
8.
Length of Shoulder.
From
9.
Height of Darts.
Measure from waist
line
to raise of bust.
ADDRESS: H.
EVAN
P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
Sleeve Measures.
Length of Sleeve.
10.
Stand a
little
and run
it
down
inside
seam
Muscle Measure.
Take
this
width
shoulder to
desired.
Elbow Measure.
12.
Holding the arm curved, measure around the elbow to desired width,
Wrist Measure.
13.
Skirt rieasures.
14.
flip.
Measure over
dress,
around the
fullest
Length of Front.
15.
From waist
Length of Side.
16.
From waist
Length of Back.
17.
From
neck, and, noting the length of the Waist, pass the tape line on to the desired length of the garment.
the Under-Arm notice the length of the waist, and pass the tape line on to length desired.
and
The principals
same as those
Also at
the other
of the basque
skirt.
Collars
18
All
and
Cuffs.
Collars.
If
Neck measure
as
fit is
is
used for collars, measure around the neck where collar will come, as tightly or looselv
desired,
Cuffs.
If
&c,
same as
for
body of garment.
HI.
measure
112.
garments
tor all
For
tor
lower part of
for all
garments
for
.-mil
bv hip
figure.
Wrappers, Tea-gowns, Night Robes, &c, where the upper and lower parts of the garment are
all
drafted together, draft the entire garment by scale corresponding with Bust measure.
113.
Draft
Bands and
all
all
and
114.
Usescale "A" on
115.
116.
on Waist
H7.
line of
all
Base-lines
all lines
Where a
circle is
around any
is
5,
figure, place
"B"
is
same
is
marked
at a
number of inches as ^+ sc
same
is
figure of scale
"B" on
figure of scale
"B" on base
line,
2*
|-
point, or
where the
7,
en-
where
placed on base-line.
the letters
all lines
118.
line of
For example:
all
outlines.
in the
diagrams.
All
itnmarked
lines
are
made by
of the square.
Ladies Skirts
ARE AN EXCEPTION TO PARAGRAPH^.
".).
line to
5,
but where scales liigher than No. 31 are used, use scale
diagram where
it is
to be applied.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
General Directions.
Great care should be used
tial in
in tracing
1.
and basting.
It
would be
well to
when unmarked
marked with two it place base-
if
H$
if
And if base-line is marked with one * place it on lengthwise fold, if marked with two *
and if marked with three *** on bias fold of material. In tracing Basques, Tea-Gowns &c,
base-line either lengthwise
enough
in
as assen-
is
straight with the lengthwise edge or lengthwise thread of the material, and
line
is
in drafting.
or crosswise of lining,
lap; or
if
fold
for front or
from edge of lining for turning under, and one quarter inch for closing
on crosswise
allow besides the seam one-quarter inch for lapping at the closing.
fered,
Trace
all
outlines
and
all
Having drafted b} actual measures noseams are allowed, therefore in cutting out garments
always cut the desired width of seams and hems outside of the tracing except the neck and the arm's eyes,
2.
CUTTING.
Cut notches at
followed.
is
BASTING ON LINING.
3.
garments having a
about an inch each
is,
notch-marks.
thread
let
all
waist-line, baste
DARTS.
down
first,
have outside
little
loose
fit
lining loose
On French
on the goods
was
tight fitting
figure.
for
Also
Hold
all
it
an inch to prevent
BASTING TOGETHER.
4.
ing a waist-line, always start basting at the waist-line, placing the waist-line tracings together and bastinsj
up, pinning upper part of
down from
darts out.
the waist-line.
seam together to make upper end of seam meet perfectly, and in some manner baste
Baste darts from the top and pav no attention to the waist-line tracing, and cut
In basting closing edges, allow one-quarter inch outside of tracing for lap in closing, whether gar-
in
it
off
If
neck
fits
snugly stretch
Infants'
it.
Always
garments before
join-
SLEEVES.
.Gather sleeves between notches and place tight-fitting sleeve with outside
sleeves
in
seam to side-form
front
arm 's-eve
at
line.
belt should
line at
line, loose-fitting
the back.
inside of
all
little
go over
the
diagram
is
of"
draft, (but without marking,) and not to slight any part, because
1,
2 and
3,
progresses, just as
if"
and to
making
the
"too easy."
(See Paragraphs
Place square on diagram and see that
it is
work
2.
the lessons.
I.
first line is
and
4,
Pack
4.)
arm of square.
The beginning of the
Take
2.
8,
scale
17 and 20 on
scales
is
first line
placed.
marked at
3,
base-line.
of Under-arm
3.
down
(Always make
measure (8V2
inches.
Then meas-
hipeurvethen mark
it
down
7,
to length
desired.
Having obtained
4.
line
manner draw
drawing
u? "*.
lines
arm
from
all
points requiring
inches).
Always
arm
gA//f,
,1/
of square
Base-Line.
,
*=t
I.
draw second
cross-lines.
lines.
third line from point 17, fourth or bust-line from point 20,
before
draw
line.
all
is
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
1st.
scale
Place scale
down
line.
"B" on
always being
2d.
first line,
mark
point one-half
3d.
and mark at
4,
on
mark
base-line,
the
at 15;
8%
draw
bust-line
inch point
first line.
down
6,
Bring
inside of base-
14,
to waist-line and
20 and 23,
mark
at 23.
scale
"B"
8 and 10.
is
way between
line
and through
on waist
point 23
10 and 13
of scale
Make a
4.)
line
with beginning
"B."
mark
at
this point
pencil
3,
line
inches,
On
hip line
making point 33
for spring
on
be-
hip.
To obtain points for top of darts, turn scale to "A" side and place beginning of scale on bust line at
point 14 and mark down 8 spaces for back dart and at point 6 mark down 9 spaces for front dart, then
bring scale up to point 17, second line, and mark down 1 space for shoulder.
We use scale "A" for these
4.
(See
paragraph
4,
page
4.
2.3
3.0
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[
A /M U A
OBJECT LESSON NO.
i
/-7 -*/,
Jta
2.
/y
3.
S,
Page
4.
marks of
the sides,
when one
line
which
NECK. With
point 1 to point 5 on
2.
way
the
arrow
points,
letter is used,
and
has been drawn do not change the position of the square before observing the next position so
which
in order,
first line.
side ofsquare
17,
"N" finish the shoulder curve down to point 1 below the 17 point.
3.
ARM'S EYE. With same side ofsquare, arrow pointing up, and letter I on point 16, or near it, and
with xipper part of curved edge on point 17, second line, draw arm 's-eye curve from point 20 on bust-line
with the
letter
line
line
UNDER-ARM. Keep
to curved shoulder
side
line to
DARTS.
line.
Keep square
in
down
bust-line.
ofsquare up, turn so that arrow points down, and bring curve "P" to
draw curve
to point 33 on hip-line.
same position and bring curve "P" up to point 8 at top of back dart and draw
in like manner draw back line of front dart from point 9 at top to
OBJECT LESSON
No.
3,
OR
DUGRAM
No.
1.
ADDRESS
Reverse Square to
sloping waist-line
in
H. P.
side
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
and by same curve draw front curve of front dart from point 9 at top to 4 on
line
to point 10 slopin.r
waist-line.
By
from point 15 to 13 on
CURVE OF FRONT.
7.
17 on
All
unmarked
lines
draw
beginning with
line,
line
hip.
With
R down
side
1 at neck
and draw
to point
line
wherever found throughout the book, are made by straight edges of the square.
Agents Wanted.
If
employment.
home
are desirous to
give
in profitable business,
give
you
the
healthful, pleasant
afford
you such
or traveling.
We
and
best of opportunity to
in merits,
every part
is
ladies
this system,
and can
make money.
The
ity
We can
is
making
it
commending itself at sight. It is without a doubt the mostnearly perfect, and themost complete
garment drafting device ever offered to the public, and meets the approbation of every person interested in stylish and perfect fitting garments.
It is a Tailor System not only in name, as is the case with the greater numin durability,
those
of
the square
The
its
principles of the
accuracy,
its
its elasticity
unequaled
are
facility
its
The system
a marvel of simplicity to learn, having a complete series of Object Lessons, which with their
explicit explanations render oral instructions unnecessary in most cases, saving
time for both instructor and
is
learner.
"STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM" sells rapidly, because it is practical, reliable, cheap, durable and in
way a benefactor to the purchaser. No special talent is required to sell the system, its merits work its
The
every
way
like
ance
is all
an under-current, making the work comparatively easy and pleasant, and honest
that are necessary to
make
the
efforts
and persever-
work a grand
We can
furnish
crown
all
it
will receive
applications and
all
orders
Your correspondence
is
solicited.
Send
to
H. P.
EVAN
CO..
W/nneconne. Wis.
P. O BOX
80.
in
JO
4,
5 and
tt,
Draw
lino at
2.
down
points
From
first line
1, 7,
same as
in
Lesson No.
"A" on
first line
21.
in.
from
this point
lines
from
all
the 7in. point at the bottom, being careful that the short
each
1.
18 and
point 21
13,
and
4.)
treat of Ladies' tight-fitting basque back with portions set apart for seam.
Pack
4,
"A".
it
from
skirt of basque
point measure
(
always make
).
arm
of
square
is
line.
&/z/M
l"i,
U.A.
1/
f?/A,
4.
/$
'3
-^7
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
AND WINNECONNE,
ILL.,
Apply
"B"
as in lesson No.
base-line,
line
scale
mark
2,
by placing
scale
mark
at
"B".
4.)
"B" along
22 and 29, on
1,
first line
fifth
WAIST-LINE.
measures, 24
in.,
the straight
waist-line
On
in the
"B"
mark
to the
24
and mark at 16
on third
point just
the
waist
in.
mark
long edge of square from the 7-inch point on base-line to the farthest 7-inch point and
4.
for shoulder,
30, so as to give a small clean dot, place beginning of scale at this dot
11
5.
line
WIS.
line at 1, 6
and
8,
draw
hip-line.
mark at 3 and 4, and from the farthest 7-in. point mark out 5 spaces for hip-curve.
5.
The distance between the two base-lines, points 8V2 in. and 17 inches on the base-line is the slope in the
waistdine of the back, and must be devided on the three sections of the back, the center-back, the side-form and
the
first 7-in.
point and
the under-arm-gore, without losing any of it on the distance between the pieces.
the lower point a small portion for center-back
under-arm-gore.
two
rest in
Place corner of square at upper dot as for drawing a straight line and
point 11 and
in.
point,
(the Waist
draw a
-<-
- 2?
16
2*
21
/(,
S,$c
ft
-II
%X
?>.
in, v.
A
a/
/;/".
OBJECT LESSON
No.
5.
/<a
mark
6.
V3S~
short
13
^;
12
6.
Apply curves by
1.
line.
fourth
L'
letters,
CENTER-BACK.
See Paragraph
8,
line
SHOULDER.
Page
first line,
i
I
in
Lesson No.
;i.
this
point to [joint
fourth
line.
From
point
side,
HIP.
in.
G from
point 35 on
fifth,
line,
also side
side up,
and by curve
P,
inch
up to point
2i>
fourth
line,
and draw
Reverse square to
line
side,
still
point 10.
By same curve mark from point 22 fourth line through the first 24 in. point on waist-line to sloping waistline mark below.
By curve "K" mark in same manner from point 21 through 11 and down, and from point 16 through point
6 and down to sloping waist-line marks below.
6.
SLOPING WAIST-LINE. Draw sloping waist -line across each piece, that is, on the back, from point 3
to
line
below point
6,
on side-form
line
below 11 to
line
below the
first
in.)
and on
under-arm-pieee from line under point 10 to straight waist-line at second waist-measure point.
7
BELOW
WAIST-LINE.
Draw
DIAGRAM
No.
2.
(Lesson No.
6.)
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CHICAGO,
CO.,
AND WIXXECONNE,
ILL.,
WIS.
13
7.
is
Apply
paragraph
principles of
4-
THESTRAIGHT WAIST-LINE.
waist-measure,
(24 IN.
I,
(24-in.,
and 5
(see
page
2.
4-).
markat
11,
and
then plaeelO on scale "B" at the point just taken and mark againat
in
thesmall scaleat
tiie
waist-measure,
on the 17
in. line)
to the farthest
HIP.
down
in.,
as in lesson No.
Mark on
hip-line at 1, 3
5,
and draw
and
6,
then
8,
mark
4.
Be guided by dotted
hip-line.
mark
waist and five spaces out from the second, for hip curve.
page
in.
mark by curve
Outlines are
below the
first 7 in.
mark
straight
down from
waist-line.
bv curve K.
9 page 2)
BACK.
When
using the extra measures apply width of back on third line and Length of Shoulder, by placing curve
at point 4,
number
first
line,
line,
FRONT.
Apply Width
back shoulder;
of
Chest on third
line,
basting page 5
DIAGRAM
Measure height
NO.
3.
first line,
of darts tip
(Lesson No.~7.)
from sloping
waist-line.
11
8.
TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE
(See Paragraphs
Place scale
''>,
1
and
and mark on
first line
points
Draw
line.
and on to length
paragraph
sec
I'J in.
page
4.
4-.
of sleeve
shown
in
elbow
first line
line
mark
(from the
at HI
point
in,
'.
and
WIDTH OF SLEEVE.
4-
mark
7 in. point,
ing 8 inches
I.
By
scale 4 spaces
and elbow
the
the base-line to
inch point
'.)
for muscle-
"B".
line at 3,
on
at 4 spaces.
in this
on elbow-line to the
line
3 inches
the
down
1<>,
6 and 15.
Place corner ofsqare at point o on muscle-line and by short arm of square measure
1,
diagram below.
APPLICATION OF SCALE
On
base-line at
mark by
4-.
17 IN.); then
Page
5,
in this draft).
In like
line
at one-half of
scale (see paragraph 5), measure 3 spaces out from the 4 inch point on
bottom
line
then
place beginning of scale at that point with scale pointing towards the base-line and touching at the wrist point
n base-line as
shown by dotted
line,
In like
width of elbow point the 6 inch point) and with scale extending from point 3 to point 4 upper elbow-line
(
On
way
).
mark
at beginning of scale to
make
is
moving
be-
ginning of scale bring upper part of scale to wrist point on base-line, at elbow to point 4 on upper elbow-line
this
scale.
2.3
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IN,
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8.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
15
9.
APPLICATION OF CURVES.
(See Paragraph 8 Page
4-.
WRIST. By short arm of square draw wrist-line from point 3 to the 17 inch point, over dotted line.
2.
INSIDE SEAM. Bring curve "P" up to point 15 of base-line and with \ side arrow down draw curve
to point 4 upper elbow line touching at point 3 on muscle-line. Without turning square bring curve "0" on
1.
OUTSIDE SEAM.
wrist-line.
line
line to
point 6 on sloping
line
touching at point 5 on muscle-line. Then turn square endwise and by curve "P" arrow up "0" side draw
curve from point 6 at elbow to point 5 on muscle line, and bv straight edge of square finish line to point 10
on second line.
6.
TOP OF SLEEVE.
to point 10 second
from point 10
Without turing square bring curve "J" up to point 15 on base-line and draw curve
under sleeve. By same curve and side pointing arrow downward draw line
line finishing
first line
to point 15 on base-line.
Turnsquare to
-|-
draw
line to
point
FURTHER EXERCISES.
After going over these lessons thoroughly, select Scale No. 36 and draft
in-
DIAGRAM
No.
3.
full size
THE STANDARD
16
TAlI.ok SYSTEM.
Review of Lessons.
From
the principles
"A"
<>t'
the foregoing
That
2.
lines
;!.
devised
is
refer to
is
measures
s. sc. is
that
same
1.
scales
figure of scale
"B"
is
9,
oi
width.
is
always marked
These three principles are used throughout the whole system and
all
a figure
in lesson
is
No.
encir7.
and
s. sc.
it
will be
H. P.
EVAN
BOX
80.
in
in the entire
instruction book.
number
of that
is
is
given, as for
S. C.
if
ruler
is
so these diagrams are realy a series of Object Lessons of which each and every one can be explained by the Object
H.
P EVAN
[General supply
office,]
CO..
WINNECONNE. WlS.
P. O.
BOX
80.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
Introduce the
friends
ILL.,
and neighbors;
it
will
else,
will
for
17
to your
your time
do them a favor.
.ADDRESS.
H. P.
Evan
Co.,
Winneconne,
Boys' Suit,
P.
O.
Box
Wis.
8o.
88.
IP
as'f
Ladies' Toilette,
Ladies' seveu-gored Skirt
page
Ladies' shirt-waist
P a ge 36
Sleeve
P a S e 41
Collars andeurrs
-t_
P*ge 65
Girls'
Pages
Apron,
74-
and
7.~>.
18
Till-:
Ladies'
(sc.
...
|
When
24-
and
let
back dart
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.
WIS.
19
(Sc. AV,
NOTE. Make
on diagram.
-Lj
it.
See hip-curve
20
Ladies'
{SC/A/o,/)
NOTE. When
by dotted
line.
and page
shown
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
21
A'o. 2
NARROW
BACK.
This back can be used with any front desired by marking front shoulder
off one space on second line as
shown in diagram on page 20. (See note page 20 ).
above
be-
gram
first line,
line.
>.,
(sc, /vo, /)
lines of close
SICE-FORflS.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
Sc. /v
o,
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
/)
Fleshy ladies' basque back with two side=forms and portions set apart for seams.
24-
(5c\ NO, /J
LADIES'
he used with anv trout bv shortening front shoulder one spate on second
line.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
25
DIFFERENCE between bust and waist measure is less than 10 inches use this diagram.
This back can be used with any front by lengthening
shoulder on front one space and letting out back dart
one space as shown by dotted lines on diagram,
page 18.
IF
L'<;
(SC
A/o. 2)
Ladies'
st.
and Misses'
Jackets.
collar, see
page 65.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
27
WIS.
(SC. N'i. 2)
Double-Breasted Jacket.
made with cloak sailor-collar
shown on this page. For large
dotted
-
line
For
Turn
shown on page 52
line
to point 12, for either revere use large or small coat collar page 65.
close-fitting
collars
For
as
neck use collar No. 3, page 64, and run revere point off on dotted
line of
page
38, cuff,
way between
cross-mark.
sleeve,
line
this line.
14-
to point
9,
and
collar
No
4-,
page 61.
page 40.
waist-line
page 52
28
(C.
N 0.4)
Ripple
To
waist-line
may
Back.
make same
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL..
AND WINNECONNE,
(SC. A'o.
WIS.
t)
French Back.
Can
Make same
length as from.
29
30
page 3S.
page 52.
lines.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
Hisses'
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
Basque Back.
28,
WIS.
32
Nb \
and
medium length
inside pockets.
1% yds.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
^5=^
*
s^"^
and Pocket.
33
34
'-
*^>^L
-"
(V.
\\
i
1
I
o
>
=)>
f^.
^---
*3
1
-r
-<
7
Ac
*v
C
/
?T~""~--^
~~
(sc.
m -)
:P~"
Shirt'
o
s.
W aist
FRONT.
Gather lower portion of front from point
base-line.
9, bust-line
to point 10 third
line,
scale
4-
it
requires
0V4.
yds. 22 inch
goods or 3Vi
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO..
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
35
5r/
.N
w
v.
^^
tr
tX
A
T
^/^^
s.
*/
.
j4
"v
<^>
->
"<"
fc>
<
J/
\
^
6
\
d
v>
//
<
ci
&<~-~
.
K.HOtb
~~~Y
Back of
A-
Shirt= Waist.
Gather lower portion from point 8 to 5 and join to yoke from point S to 13 on
from point 8 to point 16 at arm's-eye.
base-line.
:'.c,
22 on
For
1,
base-line; join
full
line to
fullness
up to
neck,
and use
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
37
C, NO, 2)
FRONT PLAIT.
Shirt=Waist Back.
No.
on
2.
base-line; join
line to
point 5 on fourth
If
line;
under-arm-gore
is
desired,
use
point 13 on waist-line.
No.
3.
No.
4.
No.
5.
For
this style
omit
fullness
beyond
Base-line.
(>5
see
page 34.
38
^
^
>
\t
'--.
<~~
'
//
Xo
\N
>
no
<&
Vo
>
(5 C.
Hedium
A/0.
Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length
Place dotted
line
on lengthwise thread
of
goods.
is
1%
ADDRESS.
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
39
($C, No. i)
in,
ITt ^
b
Cr
se Iine for
;
mCaSU
ap
r
r r
tTo
to actu^
I" Tmeasures.
TeZ , of
wrist
actual lengths of
,P mt
'^
Rnd
* *
en measure
36 inch goods.
,,
by meas
^bow
and
to
Circular Cuff.
Sleeve, Capes
and Epaulettes.
Draft by scale
Diagram No.
cape No.
1.
"A"
only!
give one-half of
point 2b to 30 on
first line
and
notch-mark 5 at the
shoulder
marks at
as
indicated
on
diagram and
medium
sizes
No.
re-
yard
30 inch goods,
No. 2 requires % yards and No. 3
and No. 4 require y2 yards each
quires
of 30 inch goods.
(sc.
Mo. 3)
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
41
^
>
^#c
<si
'
y*
<"
^
^
\rt
si
<?j
<
o
rrv
(SC. 'N 0.
2)
sleeve see
For smaller
page
sleeve see
used scale
down 4
35.
75.
Size,
sleeve
if
a broad
is
used,
Material required for sleeves drafted by scale No. 36, and of medium length,
See page 5 for basting.
if
is
1%
42
NOTE
NOTE
of
No.
1.
and
9,
page
4.
No. 2. In drafting finish top of each piece, then measure down for length of skirt from upper edge
gore letting measure strike base line at the number of inch of skirt length, or of the piece to which it will be
up as indicated on
base-line.
line
actual length of skirt measure (see dotted lines on diagram) page 53.
Back and
Sides,
is
shown
in
at the Front,
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
No.
1.
Front-Gore.
No.
2.
First Side-Gores.
No.
3.
Second Side-Gores.
No.
4.
Back-Gores.
WIS.
43
NOTE.
An
it
If
Consuelo
off as indicated
elastic
ribbon
may
in
forward -
fullness
by dotted
is
lines
be tacked under-
44
\RU
NO. 2
44
in.
wide.
medium
2,
page 42.
in.
wide, or 6 yds. 30
in.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
45
such measures
is
shown.
is
4-6
No.
See paragraph 9, page 4;
2.
1.
Front.
Back-Gores.
line.
goods or
6% yards
30
in.
wide material, or
5% yards
36
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
47
44
in.,
or
3% yards
54
in.
medium
material
4<3.
5%
yards 36
in.
48
graceful
gram.
according to notch-marks
and cut
in
one
by dotted
outline.
of*
this convenient
and
bicycleists.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
4-9
50
No.
2.
and
Skirt.
diagram page 51
).
fullness
is
desired,
may
be
worn over
it"
desired.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
''
1.
Front.
No.
2.
51
;^
/y o.
No.
WIS.
Back.
and
line
50 on front and
In putting
tom take up
skirt.
line
Draft
b_v
paragraphs 4 and
5.
Make a
line one-half
60 on back.
inside
backward-turning plaits at the back and two forward-turning plaits at the front.
join botJi in one
finish front
with
fly.
Draft
fly
two
and
and place
Sleeve
page
& 38.
collar
No
let Cuff,
4,
Jacket sailor-
page 61
page 41.
Gaunt-
NOTE.-See
skirt
measure page
3.
2.
page 42.
4-6.
Divide back-gore on dotted line for Five-gore skirt and bring front edge of
36 inches wide.
Medium
3% yards ma-
ADDRESS
^>-
H. P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
Ci
^
.-*rV
__...--""
-a.
v*
..*
..
,*
*
--"
S&*
,-'
>c
,.--''
t
.---'''
-
_-" r
Ci
*%:- -"'
.-
--''
--""
*""
..-'*'
.-'
r"
'''
-"'
F>
,*'
z '
-'
^.
i=
''
.'
*"
y'
.-"
v-
.'
_'*'
5"
5w -
V
-*v.
.,'
-'
'''
s'
''
''
'*
'
.'
_4i
$l
'5*?
/?
*=:~
./*
/
It-
line.
54
Ladies'
To show
if
possible
more
clearly
how
page
4,
and directions
TRAIN.
for
measures page
3.
the measures and principles in drafting of the Basque and Skirt com-
bine in these garments, the measures of Object Lessons from 1 to 6 have been used in the upper part of these
drafts
down
).
down
(42%
up 6
piece first.
found (42m.
down
down
is
in skirts.
In like
the back and measure side-pieces from sloping waist -line for length and slope as
in'
of skirt in
dotted
take measures accordingly and go gradually from one measure to the next as indicated by
lines.
Material required for garment drafted by the 36 inch scale and for medium height
ters yards
is fifteen
and three-quar-
ADDRESS
H. P.
*-
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO,
1-t
and 6
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
55
vo.z/
Ladies'
at the neck-curve.
ILL.,
in to
point 2 on same
Tea=Qown.
line, this will
56
Front
of Ladies'
may
Darts
if
desired.
ADDRESS
H. P.
EVAN
St. A/
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
Front of Ladies'
Gown
57
;,s
of Ladies'
54.
Gown.
ADDRESS
EVAN
H. P-
CO..
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
59
ft
NT,
WAUTEAU BACK.
Both edges of Wanteau Back
teau Back
is
is
joined in
Back may be
seam
60
"A"
Shoulder scam
may
be omit-
when
11 on collar to
on
4-1
2,
collar to 5 on line
close-fitting neck
page
(54,
To
4-1
on cape. For
or No. 4 or
5,
page 65.
lengthen or shorten
drawing out-
er line.
of
For garment
medium size
and length 2%
yards, 36 inch
material
is
required.
C,
nc:
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
61
WIS.
\te
Nil
/
*)
X
/4
*fe
<o|
^ /x
"'^-i.
0/
NO,
/
sx
^*
\i
\i
Vfe
A.
/?
/*
A>K"
.--'i<
VT
NO. f
91
/*-
>
^
"<^
^\^^>
,'i
0o
./*"
*v
r
1
/\<r
1
!
is ,<!r"-
/
/
./
sS
/ in
0.
<b
1*
\A
\>-
o~
\
\\'-
/ />,
V.
NO.
01
[SC./Vc\s)
Skirt page 53.
Ladies'
No.
No.
3.
1.
Sailor-collaretset, illustrated
Collarette
illustrated
page 52.
No. 5 and
6.
page 54.
No.
4.
No.
Jacket
Collarettes.
2.
Cape
collar see
and Basque
page 60.
sailor-collar,
Join
Waist
No.
Take up dart
Nos. 5 and 6 by bringing points 5 and 26 of each together as notched and seaming up
on shoulder.
side.
and
71
in lin-
the.
out-
62
No.
1.
No.
2.
No.
3.
No.
-t.
Short Medici
Dratted by the 36
eights yards of 4-4 or
No.
3.
(with No.
wide material.
collar.
Xos.
turned hack.
one-halt"
4-.
requires one yard 20 inch goods; one-hall" yard of 30 inch; or five-eights yard
4-4-
inch
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
63
^\4
t
*-
JT
-,
~~Sr<*
--^}
V\
/>
*
*
^
1
''SC,
No.
1.
Jacket Revere.
(Illustrated
Jacket Revere
front measures
It
may
is
No.
)
1.
for Jacket or
2.
No.
4.
on back to point 17 on
2, finish it
line
1,
it
Drapery Collarette.
same as
cape-back
When
page 30.
No, 3)
When
will be used.
first
it
over
it.
line
of
64
,J
-X-
sjf
^
:..-!-
vV>
_^F
r
\t#i
vo.
i
i
/
/
.1
*,
-,v
Of
/n/6,2,
VS.
V.
-3
* * +
tj
-f
N
i
f,sc, a/ 0.3)
Ladies'
j^
+
o
4-
<-
<*>
A
*1
SI
A/^.3.
terial.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
AND WINNBCONNB,
ILL.,
WIS.
65
~a*s
s*.
1-
*^i
>J.\
__
v?7
"
~~^~
t-
\
y-~~
^5. fv
y
A/
^
V
vO
^i
i
^V^
=*-""=
VC
'
Z^i
5
Ve.i
i'
$t,N0.2
A/o.
10.
\5
2-
5-
Ate*
%
vs
,/
H</-
5-
*.
Ladies'
_...,-
seams
No.
1.
No.
2.
on
No.
3.
No.
4.
Medium
Use dotted
No.
5.
Large Coat-collar.
No.
6.
Rolling Collar.
No.
7.
Standing Dress-collar.
Coat-collar.
all
lines
and
alio
line
and 3 require
V2
yard
fifi
w
:
f$
it
'
Ladies'
NOTE.-Take Hip
Draft by scaie
Garment
measure-
same as
for skirts.
Open Drawers.
Get length on side from waist to knee or to length desired.
'A" only.
drafted to
2 yards of edging.
Seam up
and turn
in
line.
and
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO.
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
67
?LU,A>o
may
rind
line.
Seam up
fronts
and hacks
68
Ladies'
When
using scale larger than No. 31, draft by scale "A" only.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
69
Children's Drawers.
Take hip and length measures same as
for ladies'
drawers, also measure from inside-seam; in drafting, measure up from bottom length of inside seam, (here 5
in.)
is
required.
(S C, tf* 3)
is
it
bias, fold
single folds
on
line
two
first line,
to
fit
and
laps.
70
//o. /
/vo,3
(SC. A/o 3)
t
ft*, t
n*-
Children's Waists.
the same as for Misses' and Ladies' Waist. The
For these waists the measures are taken and applied
Allow oneparticularly intended for small Children.
waist-measure is omited in some designs which .are more
in the hack.
quarter inch on edges of center-hack for lap, when closing
No.
1.
No
2.
No.
3.
Back of
Front No.
No.
4.
4-
or No.
18
if
close
fit
is
desired.
8.
4-
for
low
neck.
3, 7.
9 or 10.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
71
WIS.
^^
K>"
-B
vt:
V-,
A/O,
NC.
4.
A/O.
^C,
A/
0-
3)
MO.
yV 0.
S.
or 10.
No. 8 can be used with No. 3, 7, 9
and can be used with Nos.
Nos. 9 and 10 require waist-measure,
-1
or
j6.
i*
2- -
"i
\'
y
i
t|
'"A"-
o
o
=3
<N
1L
A
-*
---'
C-,
<:s-
i
*
**
-*
1
-^
-'$,
..
"^
_
NO. 3)
3>
s
-if
Vi |g
-*:
Follow dotted
Make
line
on back,
lor
lower section.
Gather upper edge of lower sections from point 19, tofit yoke.
Use plain sleeve page 15, and sleeve page 4d to required length for
Collar No. 3 page
<">5
puff.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE/WIS.
1.
misses'
NO. I
waist back.
NO. 2. SLEEYE-CAPE.
For
Misses',
page; for
girls,
when
Make
wide
folds 2 spaces
finished.
Cut
make
spaces
in
front of
//<?,
73
M
THE STANDARD TAILOR SYSTEM.
74
Little Qirls'
Apron.
ILLUSTRATED PAGE 7.
2; PAGE i.
1
SEE PARAGRAPH
Take measure
for length
for
I J .VT81E:"JL
hem.
seaming up to waist-line
Make
frill
in the back.
inch wide
broidery
If
may
be used,
sufficiently
if
wide
prefered.
material
is
fold of
goods at center
Material
required
front.
for
garment
it
requires 4 yards,
Girls
Square^neck Apron.
down
for
frill.
(^C.A/o,j)
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
75
Girls' Toilette.
Use
close
full
sleeve
fitting lining,
4-1
for drafting
2,
page 40.
Material
required
for
garment
'ength
or
5%
76
(5C.
/V0.3)
// 0.
GIRLS' SAILOR
In cutting, place No.
I
1. 2,
''>
and
on lengthwise
fold of
COSTUME
goods as indicated by
*.
Cut
7.~>
71.
Drafted by the 2
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
/V6>.
WIS.
\
\
*
5:
fe-
\\
a/a
Wd, 4
No.
2.
Blouse Back.
No.
3.
Sailor-Collar in
7
J
m^y
'
i>
gc. //<5- 3
two
designs.
No.
4-.
Cuff.
No.
5.
77
78
Collar No.
this page.
-^
<__
pi
'
V
^
'-si
'A
*J
c*.y^
r.1
^/^^
r
(
'-^\
eV
t*l
/
/
/
x/
/V4
/V,
3"
'<
>
Sailor=Collars.
No.
No.
2.
Lapel Sailor-Collar.
No.
4-.
Star Sailor-Collar.
No.
No.
3.
5.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
[SC
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
Boys' Costume.
blouse-waists with extra fullness.
79
A/O.
boys'
dotted neck
WIS.
82.
line
Use
sleeve,
over-lap. wrist-band
and collar
1% yards 36
THE STANDARD
80
All. OR
FRONT.
SYSTEM.
BACK.
r^^r.
+js
3 ^*s
>
tuck.
Lay tucks
and press
Drafted by the 25
in. scale
Tucked waist requires two and three-quarter yards of 27 inch goods or one and three-quarters yards of 36
wide goods, and plain waist requires two and three-eights yards of 27
goods.
inch, or
in.
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
>
WIS.
81
'.
(SC. iv 0,3
may
be
worn with
kilts,
and
Collar.
82
o^
-f5
v
-a-iir-
j>V
ics=r
No,
.:'<-.
/V/5.
A/0.
a-
Z.
1.
Blouse Front.
No.
2.
Blouse Back.
For high-neck
and dotted
line
ADDRESS:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL..
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
A/d.
_---'
-s
""fc~-
-<v
/
v
I
M'lllll!
<
\*
Qt.Nb.l)
?*>
may
Misses also.
No.
4.
Crown.
No.
5.
Band.
*?
scale No.
28 for
*J
will
child-
Make
ters inches
NO.
Crown may
fit
be gathertd or plaited to
side
with
bow and
To make
quill feathers.
either size
requires five-
the
ing.
interlin-
No.
5.
at dotted
line.
For
To.
up
83
84
TIM.
[$ NO. 3)
make
revere por-
left
open to
waist-line.
page 85.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
in center-back.
medium length
[SC.A/0.3)
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
85
86
see
page
JC. 'V<?.3J
given
in
It'
different length of
down
garment
is
from waist-line
tor length
trifle
short, apply
diagram.
point S at neck
tend
scale clown
2,
is
in
from point 18
For seam
in
it
from
back.
down
5,
and apply
Roll coat
line.
line of
cross-marks.
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
5-
WIS.
y~
87
lA
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k.
u
i
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1
vn
It,
4
to
i|
1
1
sso.
/
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*
'Vtf
//i>. 3"
fSC,/vo*)
A
/y<s>.
No.
1.
No.
2.
No.
3.
<3
<!
No.
4.
Coat back.
No.
5.
Coat- sailor-collar.
No.
6.
Sleeve.
medium
inch goods,
88
Till:
/vO. t
1
Front.
No.
2.
Back.
No.
3.
Front Under-lap.
No.
4.
Back
No.
(j*5
*/
S :
'
Puff.
No. 5
Fly.
No.
6.
Waist-band.
No.
7.
Front Waist-band.
No.
8.
Back Waist-band.
/Vo.
?.
'Vtf,
#,
down
6 spaces.
tend the
left
No 7 and
use
When
fly.
fly is
on button side
8.
Measure front of pants from first line to second and make fly same length and scale
used, use band No. 3. Measure by square out one-half of waist-measure and ex-
4-
fly.
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CHICAGO,
CO.,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
89
i=eJ
*
i
l*
6\
X
l\
+
jfl
tr
Pfc."
."""*"
Make eyelets
in
>
s.
-+-
line
above knee
line.
No
may
full
line.
medium
90
*>
'
<
^VAP-%
-,
up
I*.
\,
tv.
V
/*.
4*S
(sc.//.a)
No.
1.
Front under-lap.
No.
2.
Front over-lap.
No.
3.
Pocket.
N on
sleeve
scale
and
33.
first
line at
and
down 3
Open front to
2.
Take
point
4.,
9.
as directed, and
let
one-half tha
number of inches of neck-measure and mark 3 spaces beyond on lower line, Get curves for neck band in like
manner two spaces apart. Notch at point 3 for under-lapping end of band and join to right-hand side of shirt,
notch at
point
-i
-t
and
Follow dotted
line
Join
base-line) of band.
medium length
bv curve
Iv
for
shirt requires
voke on back.
two and
ADDRESS:
No.
4.
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
91
Slerve over-lap.
No.
5.
Sleeve.
No.
6.
Shoulder-voke.
No-
7.
Collar.
No.
8.
Waist-hand.
No.
9.
Neck-band.
to
fit
yoke.
shirt front.
92
/Men's Drawers.
Draft on
94 and
Flv
gether.
page
95.
and waist-band
to second, and
first line
see
make
to fourth
fly
first
line
down
line, scale
six
spaces.
first line
s'- --
down
Make
8 and 10 spaces.
*%
eyelets
,\U, /
:.
''
~^^
<
I
**, *.
ir3
>"-''
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE.WIS.
93
S. No. '
\k.V.
w 0i
Men's Vests.
Take breast measure, get length of front from center back of neck down front to length
paragraphs 4- and 5.
line scale up 9 spaces by scale "B"; for all the rest apply
Apply front measure from point
scale
up 8 and 14 spaces.
7,
top
line,
required.
From first
Measure front from point 25 down to point 8 and make back same length from
94
Men's Pants.
Measure over largest part ofhips; take a
1.
smooth, but not a tight measure.
2.
Waist measure, take it medium snug.
Length of outside seam taken from as high
up on the side as garment will be worn to sole of
;'..
boot.
4Length of insde seam from forking to knee
and down to sole of boot.
See paragraph
1, page 4-.
Measure from first line on front down length
of outside seam from this point measure up length
of inside seam, and from there down length to knee
and up 8 spaees.
Make a point one-half way between bottom
and knee and another between knee and length of
inside seam point.
Bxtend the left or overlapping front about
three-eights inch beyond points 22 and 28 as
shown by extra line.
Use Nos. 5 and 6 on page 88.
;
ADDRESS:
H. P.
Make
a point one-half
wav
On
first line
(SC,
'vo,
\KV.Ho.
3
/
EVAN
CO..
CHICAGO.
ILL..
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
95
96
Infants' Department.
IN
No. 18.
fa
#aS
and WrisUBand.
Sit
Hne
thC
CentCr
Back and Fro
'^ PP
"
P e" center-back 25 spaces
1 "u\
do,-, and
VIhen,
down
both edges narrowly. For arms'-eve
bring point 12 on second line to point 3 on base-line in
a
plait turning towards the
arms-eve; this brings points 6 to 18 together.
" 10 y0kt Pl;n 2 SPaCtS " fr0nt
am,three H bad<aS
-
of
sk^to^vot
"
n tch
mark
]
line
of yoke.
Gather
ADDRESS: H.
P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
WIS.
'.i7
THE STANDARD
98
TAIl.uk SYSTEM.
-i
/-Jo. 3>
seam
and 2+
line
this brings 6,
is
mark and
seamed up
10 and 22 on
for
first line
to gather rest to
yoke.
fit
is
24-
together.
joined toit.
line for
in
96.
To obtain goods
to shoulder seam.
line for
back on straight
edge of cloth.
No. 2 requires
two and
all
this
yokes.
line
page
five-eights yards.
is,
for each
all-over
address;.-
h. p.
evan
co.,
Chicago,
ill.,
and winneconne,
Tv7
M
\
i'.>C. /-/o. 3,
wis.
99
TOO
ZL^>
Infants' Sack.
Front of sack and collar
If
may be square
or round.
51,
and out-
line as indicated;
join point
30 to shoulder-
seam.
Shirr
bottom of
stay underneath.
on length-wise
and fasten
fold of
Material required
base-line
goods.
is,
five-eighths
yard
4-4
inch
pretty
finish
for
outer edges
must be allowed.
is
button-hole
hem
for
which
s
'-tO.
3\
ADDRESS:
EVAN
H. P.
CO.,
CHICAGO,
Infants' Foot-Wear.
carefully
all
101
WIS.
y/
Mark
AND WINNECONNE,
ILL.,
notch-marks as
by them
in
^kJ~
-TS-
Infants' Shoe.
1.
No.
1.
Upper
No.
2.
Sole.
Seam up
slash and
Make
through.
lace
1,
to point
draw ribbon
with baby-ribbon or
Join No.
cord.
/V0.'
stich tops or
and
A/0.
section.
2,
silk lacing
'Al
by
notch-marks.
\G>
*>
No.
Infants' Slipper.
2.
No.
1.
Upper portion.
No.
No.
2.
Sole.
3.
Strap.
4t
^3
j tn
it
single
to the single
<
CO
//'*>,
at 10
A/
b,
';
CP
strap
to No.
mark.
2,
Place
Infants' Moccasin.
3.
Seam up
join
No.
2,
and
Join single
marks
mark
of No. 3
of numbers 1
and 2
NO
marks
of No.
1,
double marks to
gather No.
fit
between
V\
marks.
Make
Any
from
tie in front.
one-quarter
yard
20
or
*l
B^H
made
more
Alt> 3
No.
2.
piece 8V2
inches,
When
Moccassins 8V2 by
A/o/
12 inches.
and so over-and-over.
[C-.A/>,3)
102
1.
No.
2.
and
Skirts.
inches wide.
if
widths each one yard long, and for double band, one-third yard of muslin 36 inches wide.
No. 3 and
4.
flannel into
dotted upper
No.
5.
Notch
skirt
line for
for
high neck.
base-line
it.
Use dotted
lines for
high
neck.
No.
6.
Numbers
3, 4,
and 6 require
three-eights yards
two widths
line for
two and
three-quarters
vV"
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0>
V-.
ADDRESS]:
H. P.
EVAN
CO.,
CHICAGO,
ILL.,
AND WINNECONNE,
103
WIS.
*
A/0. /
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5-
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ST
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+1
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3
1
//0
5'
[$t. U0.J>)
and Skirts.
104
and engraved
contain diagrams
amount
will
with
fill]
office
as
no agent
will be
directly
Address
all
our Supply
Office
WlNNECONNE,
WlS., P. O.
BOX
80.
H. P. Evan Co.
Central Office, Chicago,
111.
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