Seminar/Workshop on

Synthetic and Natural

Dyeing of Indigenous
Fibers
 Technical Services Division
Philippine Textile Research Institute
Department of Science and Technology

MANDATE

• Conduct applied research and development for the

textile and allied industries

• Undertake the transfer of completed researches to

end-users or via linkage units of other government
agencies

• Undertake technical services and provide training

programs
 Activities

1st Part - Scouring/Bleaching of Fibers

2nd Part - Dyeing of Fibers

3rd Part – Natural Dyeing

 What is Scouring?

- Process of cleaning the fibers by removing the

IMPURITIES that can subsequently interfere with the
dyeing process.

Indigenous Fiber

Scouring

Scoured
Indigenous Fiber
 What is Bleaching?
- Removal of the natural coloring matter on the
material and renders the fibers white.

Why is Bleaching Important?

- To hasten dye absorption.

- To be able to produce pastel shades.

 How to do scouring/bleaching?

1. Weigh fibers
2. Compute for the volume of water using liquor ratio (LR)
1:50
3. Compute and weigh chemicals needed:
Hydrogen peroxide, 50% - 9 g/L
Sodium silicate-2 g/L
Soda ash-2 g/L
Detergent-0.5 g/L
4. Boil the computed volume of water
5. Add soda ash, sodium silicate, detergent and
fiber/material.
6. Add the fibers and hydrogen peroxide when the solution
boils.
7. Boil for 30 - 45 minutes.
8. Drain, wash and prepare neutralization.
 Neutralization:

1. Measure the same amount of water using liquor

ratio (LR) 1:50, 1:20 or 1:30.
2. Add 2 ml/L glacial acetic acid and mix
thoroughly, then add scoured/bleached material.
3. Soak for 20 minutes at room temperature.
4. Drain the solution, wash and dry the material.
 Sample Calculation for
(Scouring/Bleaching)
Weight of material = 5 kilograms
Liquor ratio (LR) = 1:20 (liters-kilograms)
Volume of water = wt of materials x LR
= 5 kg x 20 L/kg
= 100 liters
Weight of hydrogen peroxide = 9 g/Liter x 100 Liters
= 900 grams
Weight of soda ash = 2 grams/Liter x 100 liters
= 200 grams
Weight of sodium silicate = 2 grams/Liter x 100 liters
= 200 grams
Weight of non-ionic = 0.5 grams/Liter x 100 liters
= 50 grams
Volume of acetic acid = 2 ml/L x 100 liters
= 200 ml
 Flow Process
Sodium Silicate, Soda
Ash, Non-ionic Detergent
Indigenous Fibers
At boil for 30-45
min, Hydrogen
Peroxide, 50%

Water LR 1:50 Rinse 3x

Neutralization:
2 mL/L glacial acetic acid
bleached fibers

Rinse, dry
20 min at room temperature
 What is Dyeing?

- Dyeing is the process of imparting color on the fibers.

Scoured/Bleached
Indigenous Fiber

Dyeing (with blue dye)

Dyed
Fibers
 Purpose of Dyeing

• To impart attractive hue on the material

• To enhance the aesthetic quality of material

• To increase the value or cost

• To cope up with the growing demand of fashion

• To survive in the growing competition in the

global market.
 How to do Basic Dyeing?
Weigh fibers/material

Compute volume of water using the liquor ratio of

1:20, 1:30 or 1:50.

Compute and measure the amount of other chemicals needed

Recipe:

Basic dye-x% (weight of fiber/material) pasted

with equal amount of 40% acetic acid
Glauber’s salt (Sodium Sulfate)- 10 g/L
Glacial Acetic Acid – 2 ml/L
Measure amount of water needed.

Add glacial acetic acid. Soak material in the solution for 10

minutes

Add pre-dissolved dye. Stir.

Bring the solution to boil.

Add pre-dissolved glauber’s or common salt. Maintain the

boiling temperature for 30-45 minutes.

Drain, wash, rinse until water is clear. Air dry

Note: To have a level dyeing or to avoid uneven dyeing, take out the
material in every addition of dyes or chemical
 Sample Calculation for Production
(Basic Dyeing)
Weight of material
Liquor ratio (LR)
Volume of water
Weight of glauber’s salt
Weight of glacial acetic acid
Weight of dye (2.5%)
Weight of 40% acetic acid
= 5 kilograms
= 1:20 (kilograms-liter)
= wt of materials x LR
= 5 kg x 20 kg/L
= 100 liters
= 10 g/Liter x 100 Liters
= 1000 grams
= 2 ml//Liter x 100 liters
= 200 ml
= 2.5%/100 x 5000 grams
= 125 grams
= 125 grams
 Flow Process for Basic Dyeing

Glauber’s salt

30-45 min at boil

dyestuff

10 min Rinse (3x)

Water (LR 1:50)
glacial acetic acid
to pH 4-5
indigenous fibers
 What is Color matching

Color matching is the system wherein you can

formulate shade/s by using small quantities of
sample/s by using the trial and error method in
obtaining the desired shade/s.
 To visualize color shades here are some color
combinations to consider:
From Primary Colors To Secondary Colors

+
red blue violet

+
red yellow orange

+
blue yellow green

Note that in this particular color combinations there is NO Specific Percentage of each color.
 Procedures on Color matching:
1. Prepare stock solutions of dyestuffs to be used for Color
matching (example: 1% stock solution means: 1gram of
dyestuff to be dissolve in 100 ml water).
2. Prepare several samples for color matching from the materials
to be used in dyeing or production.
3. Compute for the auxiliaries and dyestuffs in accordance to
formula given for each color of the desired shade.
4. Compute volume of water sing liquor ratio (LR) 1:100.
5. Measure volume of computed dyestuffs from the stock solution
using pipettes.
6. Add volume of measured dyestuffs and subtract it from the
computed volume of water.
7. Proceed to dyeing process.
• After drying, compare results with swatch.
1. Repeat trials of adjustment of one dyestuff after the other
until such time result will be the same with the desired shade.
2. Final recipe must be filled for references.
Sample Calculation for Color matching

Example : Apple Green

Use : Stock solution – 1.0% each dyes
Weight of sample – 10 grams
Liquor ratio – 1:100
Recipe : Astrazon Blue A-BG – 0.10%
Astrazon Yellow A-8GL – 0.50%
Computations : Blue – 0.10%/100% x wt. Sample x stock solution
therefore 0.001 x 10 gms x 100 ml water/1 gm
blue dye
= 1 ml
Yellow – 0.50%/100% x 10 gms x 100 ml water/
1 gm yellow dye
= 5 ml
Total Dyestuffs : 6 ml
Volume : 100 ml – 6 ml
= 94 ml (actual volume of water)
 Thank
You
Office :
Department of Science and
Technology Philippine Textile
Research Institute
Address: Gen. Santos Avenue, Bicutan,
Taguig, Metro Manila
Telefax : 837-1325; 837-1338; 837-1157

URL : http://www.ptri.dost.gov.ph
Email : ptri@dost.gov.ph