M4A3E8Shermans Blunicum Guide to the M48 Patton Line - Murica

Once a solid but relatively unremarkable branch of vehicles in the game, this family of tanks has
benefited greatly from multiple buffs since 2014. Every member is at least above average and
several are contenders for best in tier, making the traditional US medium line one of the
strongest in the same. In addition, most of these tanks are also dynamic, pleasant to drive, and
very rewarding to play. Lets start with some of the defining traits that most or all of them share
in common.

Good gun handling for their tier

Amazing gun depression
High view range
Fast traverse
Pretty good module placement, generally tough in that regard
Decent acceleration
Average camo
Middling top speed
Relatively insubstantial hull armor
Long radio range (lol)

And that about covers it. Though its often described as a jack of all trades line, in truth, the
characteristics of each tank can differ significantly-and while the change isnt usually drastic
enough to warrant much of a change in playstyle, Id only really label the M4, Pershing, and
M48 as JOATs. The T20 and M46, on the other hand, come off as rather min-maxed within their
class and tier. Fortunately, all of them are relatively versatile regardless, which ensures you
wont get funneled into a single niche all the time.
Lets move on to crew skills and perks. As noted, while each vehicle is different, you wont be
switching up the way you play a whole lot, so whats good for one is good for all.

Color code:
Purple: Excellent/must-have, top choice
Blue: Very helpful, good option

Green: Useful, not vital, generally 3rd/4th pick

Yellow: Meh, save it for when you have nothing better to train
Red: ew

Commander
Sixth sense: Vital, not just for knowing when youve overextended and need to retreat, but also
for figuring out if theres an enemy in the area. Drop your commanders skills for this as soon as
you can.
Brothers in Arms: The crew bonus from this is actually worth more than 100% recon is. It also
adds +5% to skills. Should be your pick for second/third perk. Remember, every crew member
must have this trained to 100% for this to work, so drop everyone for this at once.
Repairs: Great for when your track is blown and you need to get going. Several of the US tech
tree meds have good turret armor, but none have reliable hull armor, and if youve been tracked,
your hull is precisely whats been exposed. A sitting med without hull armor is a dead med.
Camouflage: Being spotted less means living longer means doing more damage and winning
more games. Not quite as useful nowadays thanks to shorter engagement distances and less
foliage, but still handy, especially for relocation or the endgame.
Jack of all trades: JOAT is basically a free bonus (or bandage) if a crew member gets knocked
out and youve either already used your medkit, or youre not willing to. If you like to live
dangerously, you can even forgo carrying a medkit altogether in favor of food, gas, or a 2 nd
repair kit. This, of course, depends on your commander staying alive.
Firefighting: Once this is fully or mostly trained across the entire crew, you can drop the fire
extinguisher for another consumable. Nice if you like running food or you want the security
blanket of a second medical/repair kit.
Mentor: Bonus crew XP, basically, but doesnt directly augment the tank. While youre training
it, youre essentially sacrificing your commanders XP, so its a long term investment.
Eagle Eye: Lets you see the damaged and destroyed modules of an enemy vehicle, provided your
crosshair is pointing at them and you are currently spotting them (doesnt apply if theyre being
spotted by allies only). Very situational, but it could come in handy during a faceoff. A damaged
engine on a heavy or TD means circling is a free to go, and knowing your opponent has a
damaged ammo rack is obviously useful.

Recon: 2% more view range is not a gigantic deal-in practical terms, its only maybe 7, 8, 9
meters, which in game is a very short distance. Somewhat more useful in situations where you
cant advance and you need to spot a concealed vehicle. If your viewports are destroyed, it does
aid significantly until theyre repaired, not like that actually happens often.
Gunner
Brothers in Arms: Overall, the main proficiency bonus from BIA is equivalent to about half of
what youd get from a GLD, just concerning aiming alone. An improvement in base accuracy
also aids in landing more shots, both when fully aimed and while moving.
Repairs: Already mentioned, you want to get your tracks back up as soon as you can.
Snapshot: Shooting on the move is a US med specialty, and you want to get as good at it as you
can. The difference this skill makes isnt gigantic, but its not at all bad.
Camouflage: Covered previously.
Deadeye: Increases your chance to damage modules by a flat 3%. Considering most modules
have a base chance of 27% to 45%, this is actually pretty good. Doesnt work with HE shells.
Firefighting: Covered previously.
Armorer: Kind of like JOAT, just for the gun instead. Free bonus if youve spent your repair kit.
Designated target: Targeted vehicles are visible for 2 more seconds when they would have
normally gone unspotted. Not my first pick, especially considering its a perk, but I can
definitely think of some instances where it helps. Your teammates will also see the tanks that
youve targeted.
Driver
Brothers in Arms: Improves both terrain resistance (acceleration) and traverse speed, plus all
your other skills.
Repairs: Covered previously.
Clutch braking: By itself, it gives about the same bonus to traverse as BIA, though the effect
improves with conjunction with it as well as vents and food. Faster traverse means faster
relocation, better dogfighting performance, and a more comfortable tank to drive.
Camouflage: Covered previously.
Off-road driving: Terrain resistance seems to have a bit less of an effect since 9.14. Nevertheless,
bettering the stats is still useful, and due to the way traverse speed is calculated, it also helps a
little bit with turning on medium and soft ground.

Preventative Maintenance: Reduces the chance of engine fires by 25%. This single perk is
effectively equivalent to training every crew member to 50%, not including fuel tank fires. Helps
when youre not running a fire extinguisher.
Smooth Ride: Unfortunately, this only reduces the penalty from moving forward. Nevertheless,
you want to get your dispersion down as much as you can.
Firefighting: Covered previously.
Controlled Impact: Rams are pretty rare and the US meds arent particularly well suited for it; on
top of that, I believe this skill only helps if both tanks are moving. Definitely the skill to save for
last.
Radio Operator
Brothers in Arms: The benefit to the radio operator is relatively worthless, you train this so it
works for everyone else.
Repairs: Covered previously, ranked higher due to the lack of good radio operator skills.
Camouflage: See repairs.
Situational Awareness: 3% is still not that much, but its larger than what the commander would
get from BIA or vents alone (not both, just one). Its ranked highly because most of the other
skills suck.
Firefighting: See camouflage.
Call for Vengeance: Its a worse designated target. In most instances where the enemies youre
spotting wouldve otherwise gone off the radar, your allies wont be in position to engage them
anyway, but it helps if you had a sniper backing you up.
Relaying: More useful in lower tiers if one ally with really crap radio range is trying to
communicate with another ally with really crap radio range. Still not good by any stretch.
Signal boosting: Wholly unnecessary, every tank covered has more radio range than the its
country has debt.
Loader
Brother in Arms: Universally faster reload and a boost to other skills=Good
Repairs: Covered previously.
Safe stowage: Boost isnt gigantic, but having a damaged ammo rack is terrible and having a
destroyed ammo rack is even more terrible, so why not?

Camouflage: Covered previously.

Firefighting: Covered previously.
Adrenaline Rush: Similar to an extra rammer when youre on low health. In practice, either
youll never get to the 10% benchmark or you wont live long enough for this to be useful, but
when you do, its okay. Unfortunately most of these times the game has already been won and a
faster reload is only useful for farming cleanup damage.
Intuition: Saves you a couple of seconds every once in a while when you want to pre-load a gold
round. If youre pre-loading a shell, however, you probably have enough time anyway, so its
really more of a convenience thing.

Equipment
Lets move on to equipment next. Once again, these are all meds that dont usually vary too
drastically in playstyle, and the usefulness of equipment tends to be universal anyway, so I dont
feel the need to go over the loadout for each tank. Well use the same color code as we did for
the crew skills in order to describe the usefulness of each piece of equipment.
Vertical Stabilizer: If the tank can mount it, then do so. The increase in fire-on-the-move
accuracy and the decrease in aiming time are both far too large to ignore. Most useful piece of
equipment in the game. The high tier tanks in the branch can regularly snapshot enemies from
several hundred meters away while moving at full speed, and I am not kidding when I say that.
Rammer: Second piece of equipment that you always want to have. Augments your DPM, which
helps you win trading games and burn down opponents faster in a sustained engagement.
Vents: An extra BIA. Little boost to everything, and also helps with crew skills. I personally
prefer vents over optics because Id rather be better at engaging the enemies I can see either way,
and most of the time, you can see them either way. Either the engagement range will be short
enough that the enemy vehicles are spotted regardless, your ally is spotting for you, or theyre so
far away/well concealed that you wouldnt have seen then anyway. In that case, Ill take better
accuracy, DPM, and mobility. But preferences vary; to some, that +10% view range is too
significant to pass up in favor of a myriad of smaller benefits.
Optics: Some people prefer this over vents, and thanks to the already high base view range of the
US meds, you get more out of this than you would from many other tanks. The downside is that
you get no benefit in engaging tanks that are already spotted. You also cant spot anything past
445m, so if a tank was already going to be seen at that range, optics wont help. Ultimately its
up to you.

Gun-laying drive: A worse alternative to the vertical stabilizer. Id only consider mounting this
on the M4, on which the gyrostabilizer isnt available. Note that you can aim while moving as
long as you stop whatevers causing the dispersion (for example, if you turn your turret while
moving your hull and then stop turning your turret, you will start to aim down the dispersion
from traversing the turret only), so it can still potentially aid in firing on the movebut generally
speaking its still a direct downgrade. Vents have about half the effect of a GLD on aiming along
with a bunch of other plusses so I wouldnt take this over air conditioning either.
Wet Ammo Rack: This gets a green not because its good but because everything sucks. Having
a damaged ammo rack really sucks, and seeing as most of the US meds have ammo racks that
have a good amount of HP and dont really get damaged all that often, a WAR theoretically
should all but eliminate such instances. On the downside, the rarity of getting ammo racked is
precisely why you dont need this equipment. Its better to take something that would help all the
time rather than only when your ammo gets hit.
Toolbox: Getting your tracks back up faster is great, but not if you have to sacrifice DPM or
dispersion for it. Better to just train repairs and use a kit if you really need them done this instant.
Only use this if you dont plan on keeping the tank or youre too poor to afford permanent
equipment.
Enhanced suspension: Can be very useful if you havent researched the top suspension yet,
otherwise not ideal as a long term investment. HP boost to suspension is situational and probably
wont prevent a sprocket hit from tracking you anyway.
Binocular Telescope: I have a hard enough time abusing this on TDs. The American med line is
very well suited for mobile warfare. You should be moving.
Camouflage Net: See above.
Spall liner: Too situational, does nothing for penetrating arty hits, and HE damage from tanks is
laughable. Only helps for splashes and rams. Granted, splashes from arty do as much (or more)
damage as hits from tanks, so its nice to gave when it does happen, but ultimately other
equipment will be more useful.
Fill Tanks with CO2: American meds dont have a problem with fuel tank fires and either
firefighting or a fire extinguisher would lessen the risk greatly. Dont.

Now thats done, lets go over some consumable loadouts.

Potential Consumable Loadouts

Repair kit/auto fire extinguisher/medkit: Standard loadout, cheap to run and guarantees allaround protection against being screwed by RNG.
Repair kit/food/medkit: Standard food configuration. Expensive, but handy if you want the crew
bonus, or you have a lot of money to burn. I wouldnt run this in clan wars and tournaments
unless you have preventative maintenance and firefighting trained; the slight risk that youll get
set on fire is just too large when each match is so important.
Repair kit/food/105 octane gas: For when you want to get the absolute best performance out of
your tank. Id only ditch the medkit with JOAT trained, and even then, its a risky move. Fun,
though.
Repair kit/100 octane/medkit: 100 octane doesnt have too significant of an impact, but if you
already have preventative maintenance and firefighting fully trained, then this provides an
alternative to a fire extinguisher without eating up too much money.
Small repair kit/Large repair kit/Medkit: If you commonly find yourself getting tracked or ammo
racked in unfortunate situations, or want a cheap alternative to the fire extinguisher with
firefighting and preventative maintenance trained.
Repair kit/Large medkit/small medkit: If your crew keeps getting screwed over, or you want an
alternative to the fire extinguisher and you have more of a problem with crew deaths than
modules breaking.
Small repair kit/Large repair kit/Food: Id only run this with JOAT. Extra security blanket
against getting tracked and/or ammo racked if you still want to run food.

Finally, lets move on to the actual tanks!

M4 Sherman

Pros

-Turns quickly
-High view range (for tier 5)
-Very good gun depression
-76mm has excellent penetration for a tier 5 med
-105mm deals reliable damage against most targets, HEAT packs a punch against soft tanks
-Long radio range, lol
Neutral
-Acceleration is okay for a med, medium HP/ton and terrain resistance
-Alpha is pretty standard for tier
-Top speed at 48 kph, is decent at this tier, but not spectacular
-Pretty average camo
Cons
-Low DPM
-Poor gun handling
-No abusable armor anywhere
-HP is low compared to heavies and tier 5 premium meds

Im starting off with the M4 as the first tank to cover; the lower tiers will be grinded through
relatively quickly (except for maybe the Lee) and gameplay at that level is derpy, random, and
doesnt matter all that much to most people.
The M4 used to be the golden standard of tier 5, until it got hit with the nerfbat hard. Upon
receiving the nerfbat, it lost both its tough mantlet+turret face combination and a significant
amount of DPM on both guns, not to mention the bloom got worse. In spite of this, its still a
reasonably solid tier 5 medium and should be relatively painless to grind through once all the top
modules have been mounted.
Research path:
1. 105mm gun. You need this. Playing with the 75mm was a painful experience.
2. Tracks for better mobility and increased weight limit.

3. Turret for increased HP.

4. 76mm M1A1. You need to research this gun for the M4A3E8.
5. M4A3E8

76mm vs 105mm: Choices, choices

Notice that youre now left with 2 gun options, neither of which is a straight upgrade over the
other. Which one do you choose?
The 76mm has excellent penetration for a tier 5 medium, and you can damage pretty much
anything you see, especially with APCR. Unfortunately, the accuracy is crap, though its not as
bad as it is on the 105mm. The DPM is also quite low.
The 105mm tends to hit harder on average per shot, and HEAT rounds (or even HE against
particularly soft targets) are devastating if they pen. On the downside, the accuracy is even
worse, the aim time is longer, and the RoF is lower.
Overall, Id go for the 105. There are a lot of targets at both this and the next tier that are poorly
armored, and the derp still does okay against harder stuff-youll do just as much damage against
a T29s upper plate with HE as you would shooting APCR at him with the 76mm, and thats one
of the toughest heavy tanks youll meet.
Mobility:
HP/ton comes in at 15.42, while traverse on hard ground with maxed out modules is 48.6
degrees. Top speed is 48 kph. Terrain resistance comes in at 1/1.1/1.7. Overall, not an absolute
speed demon, but fairly mobile and comfy to drive; its enough to allow you to compete for key
early game positions such as Mines hills with other tier 5 meds. Youll definitely outpace
heavies, and you can keep pace with some of the combat lights youll see at this tier. Scouts, on
the other hand, are way ahead of you.
Armor:
The upper glacis is about 80mm effective, while protection on the lower plate is variable, but
generally worse due to the poorer sloping. The mantlet is 89mm with very little turret backing
behind it. Side armor is pathetic and not really worth mentioning. Overall, itll bounce some
lower tier AP rounds from the front, but thats about it.

Strongpoints shown highlighted in bright green.

General playstyle:
The M4 is pretty adaptable in tier 5, so you dont absolutely have to do this one thing, but there
are still some ways of driving it that will yield more success than others.
First, unless youre sure you can penetrate them with 105mm HEAT or theyre low on HP and
need to be taken out quick, dont trade with heavies. In fact, dont trade with enemy tanks in
general, if you can. Your HP is too low for that, and your alpha is not terribly high. Instead,
engage them when theyre reloading or distracted, alternatively, you can go hulldown to make
yourself a smaller target-this will swing the engagement in your favor. Going hulldown
whenever you can, as long as you can still contribute effectively to the battle, is always
recommend, so look for depression and hills where you can abuse your gun depression. Note that
the M4s turret doesnt have any significant armor, so dont count on bouncing shots if the
enemy manages to land them.
At this tier, your soft stats are pretty terrible and you still have to aim. I wouldnt fire on the
move unless youre relocating anyway and theres nothing to lose from it, or youre at point
blank range (<50 meters). Otherwise youll probably miss. However, get used to engaging
autoaim on targets for the times when you do shoot on the move. Itll come in handy later.

When firing HE out of the howitzer, it still helps to aim for weakspots, as HE damage is
determined by armor thickness. Try not to shoot tracks, as your damage will be greatly reduced.
Its often a good idea to aim for poorly armored tanks on high HP such as lights or the the
German Pz. Sfl. IVc, as your HE shells will likely pen and you can get a one-shot at of it. Of
course this only applicable if you can actually hit them, and should not be done in every situation
if a higher priority target is available.
With the 76mm, dont waste your time firing HE at anything but said German boxtenk and
Hellcats. AP will likely be your standard round. Most targets can be punched through pretty
easily, but there are still some spots and some tanks where aiming is required or advised. All of
this is also true for the M4A3E8.
-KV series: Shoot the upper or lower glacis from the front. Middle glacis is a viable target on the
KV-85 and KV-1, as long as its not angled. Avoid shooting the turret if you can. The exception
if the KV-2, where you can hit the untangled bottom portion, which isnt covered by a mantlet.
If shooting at the sides, try aiming for the middle. Tracks can generate random troll bounces.
-Churchill 1 & III: Dont shoot the right (left from their perspective) box around the MG.
Turret and lower plate are better options. You can also shoot the tracks from the front; theres
hull armor behind there.
-Churchill 7/1: Shoot the tracks from the front, unless you want to shoot APCR.
-BP: Track weakspot no longer exists, fire APCR. Dont aim at the turret, the mantlet is too
strong.
-BDG G1B: Avoid aiming for the middle glacis, its autobounce.
-T1 Heavy: Dont shoot the lower glacis.
-Sherman Jumbo: Does the tank have a max HP of 760, or 730? If its the former, the player is
using the top turret and you can shoot them right through the mantlet. If its the latter, switch to
APCR and shoot the upper glacis unless you can hit the sides.
-T29: Lower glacis can be penetrated with AP. Dont even try hitting the turret front. Turret sides
need APCR for reliable pens.
-ARL 44: Hit the turret or the tracks from the front. Upper plate is sketchy even with gold.
-AT-8: You can shoot the cupola, but the left sponson with the machine gun (right from their
view) is an even bigger weakspot.

-AT-2: Its possible to shoot through the center of the mantlet, where theres a hole in the face.
Cupola is also a target. I dont recommend engaging frontally past a very close range where you
can hit these targets.
-Panther: Upper plate and turret will occasionally bounce, load APCR or shoot the lower plate.
Same for JPanther. Panther/M10 (if you ever happen to see it) can be shot through the mantlet.
-SU-122-44: If engaging frontally, load APCR.
-Tiger (P): Shoot the lower glacis. Hull cheeks are also pennable, especially if angled towards
you. Turret is pennable with gold.
-VK4503: Turret is weak, hull is autopen with APCR.
-Jackson, E8, T14: Dont shoot lower glacis, dont shoot the mantlet on the E8 and T14.
-TDs in general, Tigers, VK3001 & 2, 3001P: Avoid the mantlet.
-O-I: If side shots arent a possibility, shoot gold. Dont bother with the O-Ni from the front.
Rear also requires APCR.
-AMX M4: Lower glacis or APCR.
-AMX AC 1946: Shoot the cupolas. Left cupola (right from their respective) needs gold.

Of course all of this would be easier if you could get side shots in the first place. How do you go
about doing that?
Flanking an enemy you meet to go around its frontal armor, as its called, is actually not really
a practical option, especially in the early or midgame where it would be the most helpful. If you
try going another route, itll probably be covered by other tanks. You can pull it off if you and
the teammates in your vicinity or keeping a single enemy distracted and you greatly outnumber
them, but in most cases, if you meet an enemy in a corridor, youll be forced to engage them
from the front.
However, what you can do is set up in a position where the enemy has to expose their sides to
you in order to move to an optimal position. An example of that is the middle of Prokhorovka,
where you can hit tanks moving up either lane, as well as scouts briefly popping up over the
ridge.
In most cases, flanking occurs when youve defeated one side head on, and can now flex
behind a part of the enemy team currently dealing with friendly forces. The enemies are now
stuck between a rock and a hard place, and are forced to take damage either way.

Heavies and TDs with slow traverse can be circled around to keep their guns off of you. If you
surprise a TD or get into circling position, sidehug them so they cant turn around to bring their
firepower to bear. Overall, very standard medium play.
Next, the M4A3E8.
M4A3E8 Sherman

Pros:
-Turns quickly
-Decent bloom values for tier 6, can mount vertical stabilizer
-High DPM
-Very good gun depression
-Tough mantlet and lower plate
-Decent acceleration
-View range is still good
-Radio range, lol

Neutral:
-Top speed is pretty average at the same 48 KPH
-HP comes in fairly standard, 750
-Average camo

Cons:
-Bad pen
-Bad alpha
-Did I mention bad pen and alpha?
-Meh accuracy
-Good for tier 6 doesnt mean good overall, still not great at hitting targets on the movevertical stabilizer is mostly good for reducing aim time really

Research Path (as I remember it):

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Tracks for increased weigh limit and mobility

Turret for better HP & mantlet armor, as well as the ability to mount the M1A2.
76mm M1A2 for increased firepower.
Engine for faster acceleration and traverse
T20

Firepower:
The E8s firepower is above average against other tier 6 and below tanks, pretty average against
tier 7 (above if you shoot gold rounds), and woefully below average against tier 8. At tier 6, you
can pen most everything, and your DPM is better than standard, meaning youll wittle targets
down faster. Equipped with a vertical stabilizer, you also have the best gun handling of any tier 6
med, though theyre all fairly horrible in this aspect so its kind of like being the shiniest turd or
the most popular kid on the shortbus. Low alpha means you have to hunker down and shoot
enemies repeatedly to deal any real damage, which, fortunately, the E8 can do thanks to its gun
depression+tough turret combo. If youre forced to trade, use your superior reload to shoot
another med with a slower rate of fire twice, then pull back until youre reloaded and repeat the
process. Essentially what youre doing is trading two of your 115 alpha hits for one of their 135
alpha hits-not a bad deal.
However, against tier 8 tanks, youll struggle immensely to deal damage with AP. You basically
cant damage IS-6s, KV-5s, or KV-4s at all unless you come across their rear, and its possible to
score bounces even then. Moderately, even slightly angled sides will produce a surprising
number of non-penetrations. Your prospects dont improve that much with APCR, since your

177 pen HVAP round is basically about the same pen wise as the Super Pershings AP, and we
all know how inadequate that it. You do, however, get reliable side shots on everything but the
IS-3 (which trolls everyone regardless), KV-4, and KV-5. The KV-5s front tumor can be penned
reliably also. In fact, multiple tier 8 tanks have frontal weakspots that can be penetrated with
APCR, its just that the IS-3 and IS-6 dont happen to be those tier 8 tanks, and youre probably
going to be seeing the most of those. As for the Super Pershing itself, probably best not to bother
frontally unless you have clear shots on the cupola and a hull down position, and even then you
can bounce.
Shooting on the move is a vast improvement over the M4, but remains relatively poor. Dont be
afraid to toss out shots, but dont rely on it in a clutch situation either. Id say you miss maybe
half the time firing at full speed on the move at 100m, whereas something like the M46 would be
scoring guaranteed hits on the move at that range.
Also, while nominally you have the best DPM of any tier 6 med, in practice the Cromwell has
you beat once you consider the first shot is fired instantly with no delay.
Mobility:
Terrain resistance remains the same as on the M4, but you get 60 more HP and 3 more base
traverse, for an overall HP/ton of 17.35 and a traverse speed of 52 deg/sec when maxed. Once
again, very comfortable to drive, and overall fairly mobile. Top speed remains 48 kph. What you
can do with the M4, you can do with the E8, but a bit faster.

Armor:
The E8 actually has some of the best armor for a tier 6 med; this is, in fact, its main selling point
over the Cromwell. Unlike the M4, there is a curved 76mm turret face behind the 89mm thick
mantlet, and protection ranges from ~170mm to 200+mm at the edges, making it rather trollish
even for high pen guns. The cheeks are weak, but shooting around the mantlet can be difficult,
especially with the derpy handling of tier 6 tanks. Overall, the E8 is about the only tier 6 tank
that sports a combination of good hulldown toughness, good mobility, and good gun depression.
The upper glacis sees a slight improvement over the M4, with about 85-90mm of effective
protection. It at least offers greater protection against the Luchs autocannon and the
shortbarreled Soviet 76mm and US 75mm M3, and with angling, can deflect 75mm Kwk 40
rounds, but remains unreliable. The lower glacis is something else: Its double the thickness of
the M4s, and generally better sloped. While difficult to abuse, it will frequently deflect poorly
aimed shots from other tier 6 meds.

Sides and rear are as weak as ever.

Strongpoints colored over in MS Paint green. Not the hull roof, thats tanks.gg armor grouping.
General playstyle:
Utilizing hulldown positions is an even more important tactic in the E8 than the M4, because
your tank gains more from it. Whereas the M4 only becomes a smaller target, the E8 also
becomes substantially more difficult to penetrate. This is important, because you need to remain
exposed if you want to get the most out of your gun, and it doesnt help if you cant give as good
as you get. The mobility primarily aids in finding new hulldown spots to shoot from, and while
the E8 can function adequately without them, abusing the terrain is definitely the way to go if the
option is available. A good description of the E8s role would be hulldown flexer.
A second improvement is that your HP is much closer to that of heavies in your tier. However,
tier 6 meds still generally remain less powerful than tier 6 HTs, largely trading combat
effectiveness for better flexibility. As such, dueling heavies 1v1 on flat ground is often still a
rather unfavorable engagement. On the other hand, if youre hulldown, feel free to face off all
you want-even if your opponent scores a penetrating hit, youll likely still win the damage trade
by a significant portion.
Due to your low damage per shot, you never want to trade shot for shot. If you have to take
damage, always look to inflict more than you take. This usually means either avoiding brawls

altogether, or at least managing to limit your engagement to a single enemy, which you can then
proceed to out-trade using the 2 for 1 (or 3 or 4, depending on how long their reload is) trick that
I described above.
If youre very poor and cannot afford to shoot APCR, you can penetrate the lower glacis of most
tier 8 mediums with AP. It would be better if you could shoot them in the sides or rear while they
are distracted, but in practice you cant always choose your engagements.
Firing on the move when the opportunity presents itself is recommended-you reload quickly
anyway and its good practice for the later tanks in the line. Just dont expect your shots to hit
past close range.
T20

Pros:
-High alpha
-High penetration, especially with APCR
-High top speed
-Accelerates quickly
-Good camo
-Least derpy high alpha gun on a tier 7 medium
-High view range
-Great gun depression, though its 2 degrees less than the Shermans. The difference is barely
noticeable, really.
Neutral:
-HP

-Accuracy
Cons:
-Low DPM, long reload
-No armor
-Poor turning speed
-Fire on the move capability does not improve compared to the E8

Research Path:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Tracks for greatly improved terrain resistance and load capability

Turret for more HP, view range, and the better gun
90mm gun so you can actually pen something
Engine, only gives you a 40 HP boost so not a big deal
Pershing

Firepower:
When youre the one dictating the terms of the engagement, its great. 240 alpha is a significant
step up from the 115 of the 76mms that youre used to, and requires much less exposure to deal
effective damage-a good thing, too, because you once again have no abusable armor. Unlike the
M1A2 on the E8, the 90mm M3 works reasonably well when trading shots. It deals just as much
damage as the 88mm on the Tiger and the 90mm on the AMX M4, though this comes at the cost
of penetration and a lower rate of fire.
Where the gun falls short is when you need to kill an opponent quickly, and theyre not a one or
two-shot. The reload is actually slower than it is on the Pattons 105mms, meaning that most
other meds will beat you in a 1v1 rushdown fight. It also makes firing on the move more of a
gamble, since youre going to be down for 8 seconds if you miss. Bounces are likewise punished
more heavily.
However, you shouldnt be getting too many of those. The AP shell is already pretty decent at
160mm, while APCR brings your penetration up to a whopping 243mm-enough to penetrate
anything youll see. Its also cheaper than 76mm APCR for the damage it deals, so dont be
afraid to load it for tough targets.

Gun handling overall ends up being pretty average for a tier 7 medium, but average for a tier 7
medium beats the A-44, T-34/100, and T-34-1, which are the other tier 7 meds with high alpha
guns. Gun depression is great as always, as you would expect.
Mobility:
The T20 gets the highest top speed of all the tanks in this line, at 56 kph, with a respectable
18.34 HP/ton and the same terrain resistance as the E8. Sadly, it also gets the poorest traverse
speed, at 39.8 deg/s fully upgraded. This makes the T20 the least comfortable to drive out of the
family, as well as the poorest in a dogfight. On the plus side, its the quickest at relocating, which
is helpful for contesting key positions during the early game. Overall, the tank trades combat
maneuverability for straight up speed.

Armor:
It doesnt have any.

Strongpoints marked in green, lol.

General Playstyle:
Hulldown tactics apply just as strongly to the T20 as to any other tank in the line, and with your
small turret, youre a difficult target to hit. However, you want to drop the exposure time and
hide yourself during the downtime between shots. Unlike the E8, which sits itself into a comfy
spot and machine guns opponents to death, the T20 functions much more like a boom and
zoomer-use your mobility to quickly get it, hit the enemy with a single powerful shot, then get
out.
You can trade shot for shot against same tier meds, and if you have to eat hits at all, this is
exactly what youll want to be doing, considering you have nearly twice the damage of most of
your peers. You wont out-trade the aforementioned 3 high alpha meds, but you do have better
gun depression and gun handling, so use cover to minimize exposure and fire a shot off while
theyre still aiming.
Unlike the E8, circling in the T20 doesnt work quite so well thanks to the poor traverse speed.
In most instances, youll probably be better conducting a drive by shooting, where you quickly
speed by and snap a shot off without slowing down to turn. Extremely slow vehicles (especially
TDs) can still be circled, though keep in mind that it will take quite a while to kill them, so make
sure there arent any enemies which could come to their aid.
If forced to engage enemies frontally, switch to your APCR round and burn right through their
armor. You can pen an E75s lower plate, as well as an IS-3s upper. 240 alpha matters even at
tier 9, so the T20 scales fairly well into higher tiers. In fact, if you load into a higher tier match, it
might be a good idea to pre-load an APCR shell at the start of the match, since your reload is
long and you wont know exactly who youll bump into first.
With above average camo and view range, the T20 also makes for a decent passive scout.
Next, the Pershing. Brace yourself, youre rolling with the big boys now.
M26 Pershing

Pros:
-Good gun handling
-Good view range
-Tough mantlet
-Excellent gun depression
-APCR penetration
-Radio range, lol
-Good HP, almost the same as the IS-3
Neutral:
-Alpha, for a med
-Camo
-Mobility in general, though the turning speed is improved over the T20 so its reasonably
comfortable to drive again
Cons:
-Relatively low DPM

-AP pen is a little low, though barely worse than the M4A1 Revalorises standard APCR shell in
light of the difference in normalization, so its still workable

Research Path:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

90mm T15E2M2 for increased penetration

Tracks for better mobility and increased load capability.
Turret for better HP & view range and a much better mantlet.
Radio, lol.
M46 Patton

Firepower:
Alpha is the standard 240 for tier 8 mediums. Punishing for lower tiers, but unrespected
by heavies and higher tiers. Once again, not a great idea to trade shot for shot.
Fire rate is improved greatly over the T20, at 7.32 base RPM instead of 6.38, meaning
missed and bounced shots arent nearly as painful. On the downside, this isnt high
enough to give the Pershing good DPM, which remains below average for its tier. Then
again, few tier 8 tanks have very good DPM anyway and the differences are generally
small.
For a tier 8 medium, the gun handling is above average. The aim time remains at the 2.3 s
youre used to, but dispersion from turning and moving the hull is greatly reduced.
Compared to its predecessors, the M26 is pretty reliable at firing on the move, and you
wont need to stop to aim for closer shots. Its still not at the level of the Pattons, which
can pull off ridiculous snapshots from ludicrous ranges, but its the first tank in the line
with bloom values that I would call good.
Penetration with AP is not great, but 190mm pen is workable enough in most situations,
though its not terribly effective against the IS-3 frontally thanks to its HD model armor
(would have worked fine against the old SD model). APCR is fantastic at 268mm, the
same as the standard pen on tier 10 mediums. As with the T20, youll be able to damage
pretty much anything.

Gun depression remains a fantastic -10 degrees, and you would expect nothing less.
Mobility:
With the Pershing, you go back down to the 48 kph top speed that youve seen on the
Shermans. Fortunately, you also get some turning speed back, with a hull traverse speed
of about 45.4 deg/s. Acceleration becomes slower, as you have slightly lower HP/ton than
the M4A3E8 with slightly higher terrain resistance. This makes the Pershing one of the
less mobile tanks in the line, though many other tier 8 meds are also a bit sluggish so it
comes out pretty average in the end.
Armor:
The armor on the Pershing isnt terrible for a tier 8 medium. The hull is similar to what
youd get on a tier 7 heavy, which allows you to bully lower tier opponents with poor
pen. It doesnt get a whole lot of bounces against equal or higher tier opponents, though
this is true for the vast majority of medium tanks.
Your side armor improves to 76mm, which allows you to sidescrape in city
environments. Note that due to the thinner armor around the engine block (only 51mm)
and the frontal turret placement, you are much better off reverse sidescraping, with your
back against the wall rather than you front.
The bulk of the Pershings armor, however, is concentrated in the mantlet. Its a healthy
203mm and curved to boot, which allows you to deflect poorly aimed snapshots from
most vehicles you encounter. You still wont want to sit in place against same tier heavies
or higher tier meds, as most of the mantlet lacks turret face reinforcement, and shots that
hit dead center can go through. On the other hand, the edges are basically impenetrable.
The turret cheeks are relatively weak and can be penetrated by same tier tanks, though
theyre not all that easy to hit, especially if you keep moving.

Strongpoints marked in green. Again, ignore the hull roof.

General Playstyle:
In most respects, the Pershing plays more like an E8 than the T20. It has a relatively
quick turning speed, with a more moderate top speed and acceleration value. The tough
turret is back, which allows for a greater degree of hulldown exposure than the T20. One
thing it doesnt get is high DPM, so you wont perform particularly well if you get rushed
down, especially by higher tier tanks.
Although the HP is near that of a tier 8 heavy, the Pershing still has significantly lower
alpha with similar DPM, which generally results in inferior firepower. Remember though
that 2 of your shots are worth more than one of theirs, so remember the 2 for 1 rule if
youre forced to enter a trade. Better yet, use your soft stats, gun depression, and mantlet
to avoid taking any damage in the first place.
At this point, you should have learned to use autoaim and fire on the move regularly. If
you havent, its vital that you learn it now; otherwise you wont be able to use the
Pattons to their full potential.
Speaking of Patton:
M46 Patton

Pros:
-Blistering DPM, highest of all tier 9 mediums & heavies. (It actually beats the Foch and
T30 in this regard, even when accounting for the instant first shot.)
-High alpha, 390 damage per shot is a significant upgrade for little loss in RPM.
-Great view range
-Turns very quickly
-Amazing bloom values with very quick aim time
-Excellent gun depression
-Accelerates nicely
Neutral:
-Same old 48 kph top speed
-Camo
-Pen is near the median, bit on the low side but adequate
-HP

Cons:
-0.39 accuracy is mediocre, still okay though
-No armor

Research Path:
1. Tracks first thing, unless you want to mount enhanced suspension
2. 105mm T5E1M2 for some solid punch
3. Top turret for increased HP, view range, better gun handling, and a higher RoF. Dont
worry about losing the mantlet on the stock turret, it sucks anyway.

4. Engine for better acceleration and traverse. You can take this before the turret if you
want, comes down to your choice.
Firepower:
Its awesome. The gun handling is better than most tier 10 mediums, the alpha is the
same, and the RoF is similar-in essence, it is tier 10 firepower. You can win against every
tier 9 vehicle in a straight up slugfest, save for TDs-and you can win against the Conway
even then (Waffle IV as well if you pen every shot with HE).
Because you have superior DPM against almost everything, you could theoretically win
1v1 duels simply by charging forward and holding down LMB, but there are better uses
for your HP. You have either better alpha or a better RoF than most opponents, so you
can trade shot for shot against the latter or go 2 for 1 against the former. However, thanks
to the gun depression and handling, you often wont have to take any shots at all.
Base penetration is one area where the M46 isnt tier 10. 218mm is okay, but you need a
perfect angle to go through the LFP of E75s and E100s, and you can get troll bounces off
IS-3s and T-54s. For tougher targets, I recommend loading APCR. You may not always
need it to pen, but firing gold means you can quickly snapshot your opponent without
exposing yourself to return fire, which is one of the Pattons main strengths. The higher
shell velocity also aids in firing on the move. In fact, Id recommend pre-loading an
APCR shell at the start of the match for that purpose alone, and then switching back to
AP if the situation allows it once youve gotten a good grip on how the matchup is doing
down. With full APCR, the M46 basically becomes a tier 10 medium with less HP.
Gun depression remains the fantastic 10 degrees that youre probably quite used to be
now.
Mobility:
The terrain resistance is the same as the Pershing, but the upgraded engine increases your
hp/ton to 19.16, and your traverse speed to 52.9 deg/s. This means you accelerate like a
T20 and turn like an E8. Unfortunately, you dont get the T20s top speed; it remains
capped at 48 kph on flat ground. Speed wise youre pretty middle of the pack, though the
M46 has one of the fastest traverse rates out of its peers.
Armor:
It doesnt have any.

Well, it does, to be fair, but just a teensy bit. The tiny mantlet around your gun will
frequently bounce high pen rounds, but its so small that people will rarely hit it.
Fortunately, the frontal profile of the turret in general is also rather small and youll
probably be moving a lot, making the tank difficult to hit.

Strongpoints marked in green, ignore the hull floor.

General Playstyle:
This tank is the epitome of mobile warfare at tier 9. Fire on the move, a lot. In fact,
probably the majority of the shots I actually take in this tank are fired on the move. If you
need to aim, the process is very quick, but this is usually isnt necessary because the
bloom values are so good. As noted prior, its possible to pull off snapshots from several
hundred meters away. I recommend using autoaim extensively, though you will need to
use arcade aim against moving targets at longer ranges.
Thanks to your DPM-alpha-bloom-depression combo, you have better firepower than
almost everything else within the tier. Given that the gun has the alpha of an IS-3 but
fires substantially faster, itll chew up lower tiers very quickly. Tier 9 in general

represents a massive step up in firepower for meds, and is thought to represent the point
at which mediums become approximately as powerful on a per unit basis as heavies. (In
fact, thanks to only slightly lower alpha and significantly higher RoF with good standard
and/or gold pen, tier 9 meds tend to punish exposed targets harder than heavies do.)
Unfortunately, you have no armor. This represents yet another curious blend between the
E8 and T20: Your DPM is very high, and you lack any real protection. The good thing is
that your damage output is more or less equally derived from damage per shot and rate of
fire, so you have time to hide in between reloads rather than being forced to expose
yourself as with the E8. When firing, autoaim or pre-aim the target, poke just far enough
out of cover to shoot, click, and then rapidly pull back. The process takes only a fraction
of a second, and many opponents wont be able to aim or react in time. This is
particularly true for moving tanks; most enemies wont have your soft stats, so they
wont be able to hit what little part of the tank youve exposed.
Shooting a healthy amount of APCR is a good idea in order to maximize the number of
penetrating hits and reduce exposure time. However, if youre poor, the tank also usually
performs well with AP. Gold is nice but not a necessity in most situations. It would be
advised for dealing with all tier 10 heavies frontally, except for the FV215B, AMX50B,
and 113, as those tanks can be penned almost equally well with AP.
With the improved acceleration and traverse, its once again viable to circle slower
enemy tanks. Note that heaviums are much more prevalent at these tiers, and one of the
more popular true heavies, at tier 9, turns quite quickly, so what you thought would be a
sluggish pondering beast can turn out to be surprisingly nimble. Track them first for best
results.
In tier 9 matches, your mobility is good enough to contest key early game locations. Do
be aware of tier 10 mediums, as they tend to see a large increase in speed over their
predecessors, and can often beat you to the position.
Overall, this is an incredibly fun and highly rewarding tank to play, which makes it the
choice of many top players. It helps that tier 9 in general is very strong, with a meta thats
typically more dynamic than the gameplay present at tier 8 and 10.
Last but not least, the M48.
M48 Patton

Pros:
-Best medium tank gun in the game, and arguably the best gun in the game. Excellent
DPM, penetration, and gun handling.
-High view range.
-Great gun depression.
-Patchwork armor yields troll bounces.
-Slightly above average HP
Neutral:
-Still turns relatively quickly, but its more or less average at this tier.
-Accuracy
Cons:
-Huge, bigger than an E5
-Relatively slow for its tier
-Poor camo
-Annoying tumor on top
-Armor is not guaranteed pen for anything but also not a guaranteed bounce; you dont
know whats going to go through ahead of time

Research Path:
1. Gun, this is the only thing to research.
2. Congrats! Youve finished the M48 line. Enjoy playing your elited tanks and/or start
up another branch.

Firepower:
Amazing. The gun is similar to the one on the FV215B, but trades accuracy and APCR premium
for gun depression and DPM. Bloom values are extremely low, aim time is fast, penetration and

alpha is good. Its probably the most well balanced gun in the game. Nominal DPM is a little
lower than it is on the RU meds, but when considering the first shot alpha advantage, its
practically identical.
The gold round is HEAT, which can be sort of annoying due to its lower velocity, inability to
shoot through obstacles, and tendency to randomly no pen spaced armor, though it does get a
reduced autobounce angle. The preferred ammo choice will be your standard APDS round in
most situations.
Gun depression is a bit worse than the preceding tanks at -9 degrees instead of -10, but although
the M48 is quite a tall tank, the gun itself is situated rather low, so the difference will probably
go unnoticed.
Mobility:
Unfortunately, this is on the poorer side when it comes to tier 10 mediums. Most of the M48s
peers gain a step up in top speed, but the M48 actually gets a downgrade in this respect, to 45
kph. Not much of a difference compared to the M46, but more significant compared to the other
tier 10 meds.
Turning speed is also a little slower, at 47.5 deg/s. This is still fast enough to be comfortable and
wont usually prove an issue. Acceleration is similar to the tier 9 Patton, with better terrain
resistance but lower HP/ton.
Armor:
The M48s armor is largely dependent on RNG. There are both weak and strong points, and they
tend to be rather small, plus they sit next to each other. As a general rule, I wouldnt rely on it to
bounce same tier guns, but there are some days when SerB blesses you and nobody can pen. Due
to the unreliability of the armor layout, its difficult to actually abuse. Its more of a thing that
just happens to come in handy every once in a while.
One thing that will get reliably penned is your gigantic cupola, so take care not to expose it too
much.

Approximate location of strongpoints marked in MS Paint green, changes depending on angle.

General Playstyle:
This tank actually plays a lot like a more passive M46. Its equipped with a high DPM, high
alpha gun with lots of gun depression and very little bloom, so much of the gameplay consists of
running around snapping shots off at people who cant return fire effectively.
One of the downsides is that youre not as suited to racing equal tier meds for early game
positions-which is not to say its by any means impossible, just that the M48 isnt as well suited
for it. On the plus side, random bounces can extend your lifespan.
Although the M48 has the highest viewrange of any tank in the game, it also have heaviumesque camo, meaning you actually get outspotted by other tier 10 mediums while moving or
staying still. Where you do outspot them is when hey fire, at which point camo drops to nearly
0% for almost every tank anyway. As a result, the Fatton tends to serve as more of a reactionary
rather than active spotter.
Against heavies, the higher view range is an advantage because you can spot them further awaysure, the camos lower, but its not a huge deal when you outspot such tanks by a significant
margin anyway.
The M48 is arguably not as good for dueling same tier heavies as the M46, seeing as many tier
10 heavies have strongpoints that are resistant to gold shells, as well as a good bit more HP
(whereas health pools for tier 9 heavies are almost the same as those of mediums). At the same

time, even better gun stats allow it to punish distracted enemies even more heavily, and the
improved accuracy aids in sniping.
This concludes our review of the traditional US tech tree meds. But wait, theres more! Lets go
over their crew trainer, the Super Pershing.
Bonus Review-T26E4 Super Pershing

Pros:
-Turns fast (for a heavy)
-Good APCR round, especially for a prem MM tank
-High camo (for a heavy)
-High view range (for a heavy)
-Lots and lots of frontal armor
-Preferential MM
-Did I mention pref MM?
-Relatively non-derpy gun (for a heavy)
-Fast downhills (for a heavy)
Neutrals:
-HP
Cons:

-Accelerates slowly, worse than most other tier 8 HTs

-Terrible AP pen
-No good AP pen
-Very bad AP pen
-Poor side armor
-Low alpha (for a heavy)
-Relatively low DPM
-Frontal armor profile has numerous weakspots, although theyre relatively difficult to hit

Research Path:
1. Buy the damn tank
2. Stick your crew in it

Firepower:
Its like a Pershing. The soft stats are worse, but the tank moves slower, so it evens out.
One big thing: The AP pen is a lot lower. This can be a problem when youre trying to make
money (since it is a premium tank, after all). 170 simply isnt enough to deal with IS-3s, IS-6s,
KV-4s, and T32s, not to mention a variety of TDs and almost every tier 9 heavy. The APCR, on
the other hand, is almost the same.
Mobility:
Straight line, it sucks. Terrain resistances are pretty average as far as heavies are concerned, and
with an HP/ton of 9.95, you wont be moving anywhere in a hurry. On flat ground, youll top out
at about 30 to 33 kph-the 40 kph speed limit is only achievable downhills.
On the plus side, it does turn pretty quickly for a heavy. 30.4 degrees beats most of the SPs
competition, making it more difficult to flank.
Armor:

Now we get to the good part. The Super Pershing boasts tier 9 heavy levels of frontal armor on a
tier 8 preferential matchmaking tank, meaning that youll be resistant to almost everything you
face.
The exact game mechanics for spaced armor are unknown, so I cant give you the exact
thickness levels, but the upper plate comes in at about 270mm effective against AP. The only
guns which stand a decent chance of getting through it with AP are high caliber TD weapons like
the Jagdtigers 128mm or the ISU-152s derp gun. There are a couple of heavy guns which boast
enough penetration on their gold rounds to reliably penetrate-at tier 8, these are the T34, Lowe,
Tiger II, and KV-4-although they can still chance bounce, especially when angled. At tier 9, the
E75, VK4502B, AMX 50 120, and Conqueror sport adequate pen with their APCR to get
through. The others are limited to HEAT, which tends to be quite finicky against spaced armor
plates.
The center of the lower plate is about 230mm effective, with the corners being something closer
to 210mm. Gameplay wise, the frontal hull armor works very well against the AP rounds of
opposing heavies. Against APCR, you want to avoid exposing the LFP if possible.
The Super Pershings mantlet is extremely tough. Its 88mm of spaced armor over a curved
114mm mantlet protecting a 101mm thick turret face. Practically nothing you see can penetrate
this reliably. However, the turret cheeks are much weaker, offering about 120 to 180mm of
protection from the front. The areas covered by the ear flaps extending from the mantlet are
more resistant, with a protection value ranging from approximately 160 to 250mm. The main
target is the cupola, which is only 76mm thick, though its rounded profile increases this to
autobounce at the edges.
The machine port in the hull is an obvious weakspot, but too small to hit reliably in combat.
Overall, the Super Pershing sports the best frontal armor profile in its tier, boasting over 250mm
of upper glacis armor whereas most tier 8 heavies are looking in the realm of 200. Do note that
the turret, while good, isnt invulnerable like the IS-3 or T32s would be in a hulldown position,
so dont let them aim in on your weakspots.
The side armor, unfortunately, sucks. The front half of it is 76mm and the rear half is 51mm.
Theres also a small strip along the bottom of the side hull thats only 25mm thick, making it
autopen for any tank the SP is likely to encounter.

Because most of the front is a strongpoint, Ive decided to show you the weakspots instead.
Green shows thin areas, while orange shows places that are weaker, but not particularly soft
overall.
Gameplay style:
The most important bit of advice to remember goes for both the Claymore mine and the T26E4:
Front towards enemy. Follow that mantra and the other team will die horribly, disobey it and you
will get blown up. All your armor is concentrated in the front, and most enemies will either
bounce repeatedly or refuse to engage you from this angle altogether until theyre forced to. On
the other hand, even tier 6 tanks will penetrate your sides with relative ease if they gain access to
them. If your tank is angled, make sure you either present the sides at an autobounce angle, or
hide them behind a corner altogether.
At point blank, enemies will be able to target your weakspots much more easily. To throw them
off, keep moving and dont let them sight in. When youre forced to stay relatively stationary,
wiggle the turret, raise your gun, and position it over your cupola to block shots.
However, at standard engagement ranges, the vast majority of your opponents will struggle to
deal damage, while you can shoot them with impunity using your 258mm pen APCR shells. This
makes the Super Pershing well suited for the role of a breakthrough tank that can effectively
force through chokepoints, opening up the flank for your allies to plow through.

Because the tank is so slow, it will not be able to flex back to base quickly, so if you suspect
another area of the map needs your reinforcement, start heading back ahead of time. Dont wait
until you see the cap counter on the top of the screen to start relocating, unless you already have
teammates dealing with the situation on the site. Likewise, if youre caught out of position,
youll most likely die, although you can go down with quite a swinging if you play it smart.
Its said that to score wins in this tank, all you need to do is press R and 2 twice. Most people are
looking to get at least some money out of their tier 8 prem, and if this is the case for you, youll
have to know when to use APCR and when you can get by with AP. Learning weakspots is
highly recommended, though 170mm often isnt even enough for weakspots. Tier 7s and most
(other) mediums can be shot through with relative ease. Played properly, the SP is a very strong
tank for winning games and training crews, though its not the best credit generator compared to
other tier 8 prems due to its ammunition costs. I still advise purchasing it if you dont mind the
heavy playstyle.
On that note, it sells for 7200 gold whereas tier 8 prem heavies cost over 10k, making it a
comparative bargain. The current plans are to remove preferential MM tanks from the ingame
store, so the SP may not have a whole lot of time left. (This doesnt mean you lose the tank if
you already have it, just that people cant buy it using gold ingame.)