Top Ten Basic Diesel Engine Maintenance Secrets

Thinking of switching your gas engine to diesel engine? Consider these advantages:
Fuel Savings:
Most diesel engine fuel is 30% more efficient than gas powered engines. For example: on
those old Volkswagen diesel engines, they average about 45-50 miles per gallon while newer
models like TDIs can get over 60 mpg!
Engine Reliability:
Unlike most gas engines, diesel engines likes to run all the time. The engine life can last
between 300-400k miles. The last current world record was made by MB (Benz) for two
vehicles having 900k miles on the same original engine.
Gas engine emissions:
Emit less carbon dioxide and hydrocarbons over gas engines.
Less maintenance:
Diesel engine does not require "Tune Ups" because it does not have spark plugs which is a
big plus in maintenance.All you need is to keep regular oil and filter, air filter change at
scheduled interval.
When it comes to maintenance, how does diesel engine compare? Shown are
some important highlights below:
1.) Unlike the gas engines, diesel engine has no electrical ignition parts like plugs, wires and
moving part like distributor rotor which is subject to wear. These parts have a limited life and
have to be changed on regular basis. Because of this, this is one chore we dont have to
worry about.
2.) Diesel engines run at higher compression pressure than gasoline engines. Where the
highest compression for most high performance gasoline engines is close to 200 psi, diesel
runs almost 3 times that pressure. As a consequence, more heat is generated putting extra
demands on the engine cooling system. Study shows diesel engines usually fail 50% more
on cooling related problems because it cannot stand prolong overheating. This is why the
cooling system is a high maintenance issue.
Tips on basic diesel engine maintenance:
a.) Do you notice that when your gas engine overheats, you can stop it and rest the engine
for a few minutes? Later you can re-start and the engine will be fine. If similar situation
happens with your diesel engine, the engine is almost always damaged beyond repair.
Knowing this tip can save you a lot of head ache when you owned a vehicle with diesel
engine.

b.) On some diesel engines, the cooling system uses a coolant filter to control the acidity (or
ph value) of the coolant. This filter ensures that the cylinder block does not have a build up
of corrosive particles inside.
c.) One advantage of using a coolant filter in your diesel engine is that besides applying a
coat of protective lining to the surface engine metals (like your engine block), it also has an
active anti-foaming chemical agent that protects the liquid's surface tension and thus
reducing the creation of coolant bubbles. Since this chemical agent depletes over time, the
coolant filter must be replaced periodically.
3.) Gaskets on diesel on engines must be monitored closely since they are exposed to
extreme operating conditions. If possible, all mounting bolts must be re-torqued at regular
intervals to prevent leaks especially in the combustion mounting areas. This is also true for
coolant hoses which can deteriorate quickly if not secured properly. A lot of this is also
caused by engine vibrations which is common on diesel engines. Always replace a leaky
gasket as a set. If one starts to leak, the rest is not far behind.
4.) Since diesel engines use a lot of air, greater attention is paid to the engine air filtration. A
common practice among truckers is to install a tell-tale plastic indicator on the side of the air
filter housing. The indicator changes color as soon as the engine filter element becomes
dirty. Cooling this air is also critical especially if the engine is turbocharged. On some
high end diesel engines they are fitted with after coolers to cool the air from turbo
charger.
5.) The oil filter selection is very important on diesel engines because of the bad elements of
sulfur residue and carbon created when fuel is not burn completely. The filter used must
meet or exceed the OEM filter recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. This will ensure
that all corrosive particles are removed from the oil. Using synthetic oil will also help
because the additives in the oil will resist premature breakdown.
6.) Since the cooling system is critical on diesel engines, it is important that an early warning
system should be in place. Located in the dash panel, the early warning device must be
easily seen and heard. If the engine has already overheated and it was not caught on time,
the engine could be damaged. Most trucks have this feature in their dash and must be
checked regularly to see if early warning system works.
7.) The fuel system maintenance is handled in various ways. Always keep the fuel tank full to
prevent condensation from building inside the tank which can end up in the fuel injectors.
This also requires changing the fuel filters as recommended to prevent moisture build up.
Some diesel engines use 2 types of fuel filters to control the presence of moisture in the
engine. Some fuel tanks are also design with one way breather vents for the moisture to
escape. This vent should be checked occasionally if there is a suspicion that it is restricted.
8.) Diesel engine has very little carbon monoxide, a poisonous gas common to gasoline
engines. However, it produces a lot of black soot which is the result of incomplete
combustion. Most of this is caused by dirty injectors and faulty injection timing that inject
too much fuel. To ward this off, glow plugs are used to heat the combustion chamber to
assist in burning the fuel. These glow plugs must be checked especially before winter
season.

9.) During winter, diesel engines are normally hard to start and the best way to remedy this
is to install an electrical heater to the cylinder block. Another way is to install a heater
element in series with the heater hose. In extreme cases of hard starting, a starting fluid is
sprayed on combustion chamber but use it sparingly to prevent scoring the cylinder walls at
higher rpm.
10.) To prevent engine cylinder block scoring, avoid prolong idle of your diesel engines. A
very common habit among drivers especially in winter... diesel engines are made to idle for
long hours to keep the cab warm. When diesel engines are run longer in cold temperatures,
insufficient lubrication to the piston wall is the result which might lead to piston scoring. It is
better off shutting it down and having it plugged in to a coolant heater which is a common
practice used for gasoline vehicles in Canada.
With the cost of fuel rising with no end in sight, diesel engine is a good
alternative to gasoline engines that must be considered. Knowing the basic diesel
engine maintenance is essential if you want to save money in vehicle operation
and cost.

Preventive Maintenance: Fluids & Filters

by Larry Carley
Download PDF
Preventive maintenance may be a dirty subject in some people's minds, but it's a perfectly acceptable and politically
correct means of keeping vehicles in good running condition. Checking fluid levels regularly and changing the fluids
and filters periodically can minimize the risks of breakdowns and prolong the life of the engine, transmission, cooling
system and brakes. So if you are driving a "maintenance challenged" vehicle, isn't it about time to start paying closer
attention to the fluids and filters?

Oil
Let's start with one of the most important fluids of all: motor oil. It not only lubricates the engine, but also cools, cleans
and protects it. But the oil itself can't do all of these jobs without some help. Nearly half a pint of various additives are
added to the typical quart of oil to improve the oil's ability to resist heat, friction, oxidation and contamination.

Short trip driving is especially hard on oil because the engine never warms up enough to boil off the moisture that
accumulates inside the crankcase. The moisture comes from combustion gases that blow by the piston rings (the
older the engine, the greater the amount of blow by). Most of these gases are removed by the Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) system. But in a cold engine much of the moisture condenses and ends up in the oil. Water reacts
with oil to form sludge and acids, and the result is accelerated engine wear.
The only way to get rid of the accumulated moisture, acids and sludge is to change both oil and filter. The filter only
removes suspended solids such as dirt, carbon and metal particles -- not moisture, acids or sludge.
The oil and filter change intervals recommended by the vehicle manufacturers vary depending on the vehicle
application and how the vehicle is driven. For "normal service" (which means mostly highway driving, NOT short trip
city stop-and-go traffic driving), the scheduled maintenance intervals for changing the engine oil and filter range from
3,000 to as much as 7,500 miles, with the time interval being up to one year. Some vehicle manufacturers even say
it's okay to replace the oil filter at every other oil change rather than every oil change.
But if you study the maintenance recommendations closely, most vehicles come under the "severe service" schedule,
which generally calls for oil and filter changes every 3,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first-which is the
same recommendation most aftermarket experts make. Severe service is short trip driving (7 miles or less, especially
during cold weather), towing a trailer, or driving in dusty conditions.
If a newer low mileage engine is driven mostly on the highway, you can probably get away with the longer service
intervals. But as an engine accumulates miles, it experiences more blow by which dumps more moisture and fuel into
the crankcase. For this reason, engines with more than 70,000 miles should not use the extended oil change intervals
regardless of how they're driven. Some engines, such as diesels, suffer more blow by than others so they typically
require more frequent oil and filter changes. For most passenger car and light truck diesels, 3,000 miles is the
recommended interval for all types of service.
Turbocharged engines likewise require more frequent oil changes because of the high temperatures encountered in
the turbocharger bearings. A turbo can spin at tremendous speed (over 100,000 rpm in many instances). This,
combined with the heat of the exhaust gases passing through the housing, creates an environment that accelerates
oxidation of the oil. When the engine is shut off, for example, the temperatures inside the turbo bearing housing can
soar to the point where it "cokes" the oil, forming hard black crusty deposits that can damage the turbo. Because of
this, the recommended oil change interval for most turbocharged engines is 3000 miles or six months. The motor oil
should be "turbo-approved" for such applications.

Oil Recommendations
What type of oil should you use? Follow the viscosity recommendations in your vehicle owner's manual. Most
vehicles today are factory-filled with 5W-30 because 5W-30 improves cold starting, fuel economy, and allows the oil
to reach critical upper valvetrain components in overhead cam engines more quickly than heavier viscosity oils. Most

vehicle manufacturers also approve 10W-30 for year-round driving. Yet many people prefer 10W-40 or even 20W-50
because they believe the higher numbers provide better protection-which they do at higher temperatures. But GM
isn't keen on 10W-40 because they say it tends to break down more quickly than 10W-30 and can gum up the rings.
And 20W-50 is too thick for cold weather (below 32 degrees).
You might upgrade to a synthetic motor oil or a synthetic blend. Synthetics are more expensive, but provide superior
hot and cold temperature performance compared to petroleum based conventional motor oils. They are especially
good for turbocharged and high output engines. Synthetic oils also experience less viscosity breakdown over time.
Even so, users should stick to their normal oil and filter change intervals for maximum engine protection. You might
also suggest a crankcase oil additive. Some additives are designed to reduce oil consumption in older, high mileage
engines. Others, such as the teflon-based crankcase treatments, are designed to reduce engine wear.

Oil Filter
An engine's main line of defense against abrasion and the premature wear it causes is the oil filter. The filter's job is
to remove solid contaminants such as dirt, carbon and metal particles from the oil before they can damage bearing,
journal and cylinder wall surfaces in the engine. The more dirt and other contaminants the filter can trap and hold, the
better.
In today's engines, all the oil that's picked up by the oil pump is routed through the filter before it goes to the
crankshaft bearings, cam bearings and valvetrain. This is called "full-flow" filtration. In time, though, accumulated dirt
and debris trapped by the filter begin to obstruct the flow of oil. The filter should be changed before it reaches this
point because if the bypass valve is forced open, unfiltered oil will go to the engine.
Though many vehicle owner's manuals say filter replacement at every other oil change is acceptable, most
professional technicians recommend changing the filter at every oil change. Why contaminate the clean oil with up to
a quart of dirty oil? And why risk expensive engine damage if the old filter is on the verge of clogging up? A new oil
filter is cheap insurance against premature engine wear.
Make sure you get the correct oil filter for your engine. In other words, follow the application listing in the oil filter
supplier's catalog. Don't try to match filters by external appearances alone. Some filters have SAE threads while
others have metric threads. Many overhead cam engines also require a filter that has an "anti-drainback" valve to
prevent oil from draining out of the filter when the engine is shut off. This allows oil pressure to reach critical engine
parts more quickly when the engine is restarted. Filters that are mounted sideways on the engine typically require an
anti-drainback valve.

Automatic Transmission Fluid

Automatic transmission fluid is rarely changed for preventive maintenance, yet is often the cause of premature
transmission failure. Considering how expensive a transmission is to replace, the cost of changing the fluid and filter
periodically is peanuts.
Most vehicle owner's manuals do not specify a change interval for automatic transmission fluid-unless the vehicle is
used for towing. But most transmission experts say changing the fluid and filter (which is located inside the
transmission) every 25,000 to 30,000 miles can significantly prolong the life of the transmission. But if a transmission
has a lot of miles on it and the fluid has never been changed, they also say it may be best to leave the fluid alone.
Why? Because changing the fluid may loosen accumulated varnish deposits that could cause sticking of control
valves in the valvebody.
At the very least, the transmission fluid level should be checked periodically. On most vehicles, this should be done
after the vehicle has been driven and the fluid is hot. The dipstick is then read while the engine idling and the
transmission is in park.
If the level is low, fluid should be added to gradually bring the level up to the full mark-but not overfilled (which can
cause the fluid to aerate and foam). If the transmission is leaking fluid from the pan gasket or rear seal, these parts
are not difficult or expensive to replace.
Very important! Make sure you get the correct type of fluid for your transmission. Refer to the owner's manual or
markings on the dipstick if in doubt.
General Motors applications usually require Dexron II, Dexron IIe or Dexron III, or a fluid that meets these specs.
Dexron IIe is required in newer electronic transmissions, and Dexron III is a long-life fluid that can also be used in
older applications that require Dexron II or IIe.
Older Fords as well as some imports require Type F, but most newer Fords require Mercon. Mercon can also be used
in older Fords that requires type H or CJ fluids (which are obsolete). 1998 and newer Fords require Mercon V.
Chrysler typically specifies Dexron II for older automatics, but requires a special fluid that meets its Mopar ATF Plus
7176 specs in its newer four-speed electronic automatics. This includes ATF+2, ATF+3 and ATF+4 fluids. In fact,
Chrysler warns that using Dexron II in one of these transmissions can cause shudder and shifting problems.

Coolant
The antifreeze in the coolant performs three very important jobs: it prevents the coolant from freezing during cold
weather, it raises the boiling temperature of the coolant to prevent overheating during hot weather, and it fights
corrosion.

Besides checking the level of the coolant periodically to make sure it isn't low (which usually indicates a leak), the
strength and condition of the antifreeze should also be checked. Most vehicle manufacturers recommend a 50/50
mixture of water and antifreeze for normal freezing and boil over protection. Up to a 70/30 mixture of antifreeze and
water can be used to maximize freezing protection, but higher concentrations should not be used. Straight water or
straight antifreeze should never be used in a vehicle's cooling system.
Determining the condition of the coolant is a little more difficult because appearances alone can be deceiving. If the
coolant is brown and discolored, it's obviously long overdue for a change. But even if it's still green, there's no way to
tell how much corrosion protection is still in the coolant without measuring its "reserve alkalinity." This can be done
with chemically-treated test strips that give a good-bad indication by color changes.
Most vehicle manufacturers recommend changing the coolant every two to three years or 30,000 miles to replenish
the corrosion inhibitors in the antifreeze. If the cooling system is dirty, use a flush to remove rust and scale.
Starting in 1996, new General Motors vehicles were factory-filled with a new 5 year, 150,000 mile long-life coolant
called "Dex-Cool." The coolant is dyed orange to distinguish it from ordinary antifreeze. If it is intermixed with ordinary
coolant, the corrosion inhibitors can react reducing the corrosion protection to that of normal coolant (2 to 3 years or
30,000 miles). A number of long-life aftermarket antifreezes have been introduced recently to extend the coolant
change interval to four or five years or 50,000 to 100,000 miles.
For the environmentally conscious, there is also a propylene glycol based antifreeze that is less toxic than ordinary
ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is another fluid that's often sadly neglected. The only time it's changed is when the brakes are relined (if
then!). Yet brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture over time. After two or more years of service, it can
become badly contaminated with moisture. This lowers its boiling point up to 25% (which may contribute to pedal
fade if the brakes overheat). It also promotes internal rust and corrosion that can damage calipers, wheel cylinders
and anti-lock brake system components. Though the vehicle manufacturers have no requirements for changing the
fluid, many brake experts say changing the fluid every two years for preventive maintenance would greatly prolong
the life of the hydraulic components in the brake system and improve safety.
Changes aside, the fluid level should be checked periodically to make sure it isn't low. The fluid level in the master
cylinder will gradually drop as the brake linings wear, but a sudden drop usually means a leak and a possible loss of
hydraulic pressure.
Make sure you use the correct type of brake fluid for your vehicle. Most domestic and Japanese passenger car and
light truck applications require DOT 3 fluid, but most European and some domestic performance cars require higher
temperature DOT 4 fluid. DOT 5 silicone fluid is not recommended for any vehicle with ABS brakes.

Power Steering Fluid

Like brake fluid, power steering fluid is never changed unless a hose fails or the steering gear has to be replaced.
There is no recommended replacement interval for preventive maintenance, but the fluid should be replaced if the
pump or steering gear has failed and is also being replaced. It's also important to check the fluid level in the pump
reservoir periodically (a low fluid level usually indicates a leaky hose or seal somewhere in the system).
If fluid is needed refer to the vehicle owner's manual for the type of fluid that's recommended. Some require a special
power steering fluid while others use ATF.

Air Filter
The air filter keeps dirt out of the engine, so its service life depends on its operating environment. If you do a lot of
driving on rural gravel roads, you may need a new filter every couple of months. A city dweller, on the other hand,
might go a year or more between changes.
To assure a proper fit, it's not a bad idea to compare the old filter to the new one to make sure they're the same
height and size. A related sales opportunity here would be the PCV breather filter, which is located inside the air
cleaner housing on many vehicles. This filter should also be replaced if a new PCV valve is being installed.

Cabin Air Filter

If your vehicle is equipped with a cabin air filter that cleans air entering the passenger compartment, the filter should
usually be replaced every 30,000 miles or as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Refer to your owners
manual for the filter's location.

Fuel Filter
For reliable engine operation and fuel system performance, a clean fuel supply is absolutely essential. The fuel filter
is the fuel system's primary line of defense against dirt, debris and small particles of rust that flake off the inside of the
fuel tank. If not trapped by the filter, such contaminants can plug fuel metering orifices in a carburetor or prevent
valves from seating. In fuel injected engines, fuel debris can clog the injector inlet screens and starve the injector for
fuel. And if debris gets inside the injector, it can wear or jam the pintle valve and seat.
With diesel engines, clean fuel is even more important because of the extremely close tolerances inside the injection
pump.
The typical OEM recommendation today for fuel filter replacement is every 30,000 miles-but many professional
mechanics say yearly fuel filter changes is a good way to prevent fuel-related problems.

MITSUBISHI PAJERO
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
saar | August 24, 2014 | How To | 65 Comments

The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption of a vehicle which
works under normal conditions, meaning, if you are a rally driver and do the Paris-Dakar
every Monday, you may want to have an other maintenance plan
One more thing we assume is that you are going to do most of the work yourself, that
will reduce the maintenance cost and you will know your Pajero much better.
Weekly basis:

Check engine oil level

Check transmission oil level (see here how)

Check clutch and brakes fluid level

Check power steering fluid level

Check tires visually for defects and check their pressures.

Check engine coolant level

Check the battery for corrosion

Once a year or 10,000 km:

Change engines oil and filter (1)

Replace air filter if used in dusty area

Inspect coolant hoses

Inspect brake hoses

Inspect brakes discs and pads, replace if necessary.

Rotate tires

Inspect ball joints and steering components for grease leaks

Inspect drive shafts boot for tears and grease leaks

Grease the propeller shafts joints.

Adjust the valves (diesel engines only)

Check the differential oil level

Check the transfer oil level

Check the engine driving belt replace if needed (dry/cracked)

Inspect fuel system

3.2 diesel engine check the upper timing guide

Every 2 years or 25,000 km (which ever comes first):

Change automatic transmission lubricate and filter (2)

Change manual transmission lubricate. (3)

Change transfer oil (4)

Change differentials oil (5)

Drain, wash and refill the cooling system (with new coolant)

Inspect spark plug cables

Replace air filter

Every 5 years or 100,000 km (which ever comes first):

Replace timing belt (if any)

Replace spark plugs

Replace spark plugs cables

The above maintenance plan is for a normal/light use. If you drive a lot under severe
conditions, you may want to reduce that intervals by half.

(1) Choosing the right engine oil viscosity depends on the weather in your area. For
most areas, SAE 15W-40 will do the job (fits temp range from 0C to 50C), if you live in
area where the temp is below 0, then you may consider SAE 10W-30, fits -20C to 40C or
SAE SW-30 which works from -35 to 15C
Engine oil capacity:
V6 petrol engine: 4.9 liters.
2.8L diesel: 7.5 liters
3.2L diesel: NM/NP: 7.5L NS/NT: 9.8L
(2) Auto transmission fuild:
Capacity: NL: 8.5L, NM/NP 9.3L, NS: 9.7L, NT:10.9L
Type: NL: Dexron 2
NM, NP, NS, NT: Diamond ATF SP 3 or equivalent.
(3) Manual transmission fluid: 3.2liters of SAE 80/90W GL-5 gear lubricant
(4) Transfer case oil: 2.8 liters of 75W-85W GL-4 gear oil
(5) Differential lubricant:

Standard: SAE 80/90W GL-5 gear oil

Limited Slip: LS 90 (usually you will have a sticker on the diff if you have the LSD
one)

Capacity:

Front: 1.2 liters

Rear: 1.6 liters

For items which indicate both distance and time (in months), the inspection should be made at whichever
(distance or time) comes first.
Petrol-powered vehicles, Diesel-powered vehicles with DPF
Maintenance
operation

Maintenance item

Maintenance interval

OPERATIONS INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

A1

Check drive belt for cracks, fraying, wear, and

adjust its tension

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

A2

Check vacuum pump oil hose for damage

(diesel-powered vehicles)

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

A3

Check intake air hose and turbocharger oil hose for

Inspection
damage (vehicles with a turbocharger)

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A4

Replace engine timing belt

(except vehicles with timing chain)

Replace

Every 90,000 km

A5

Check operation of crankcase emission control

system

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A6 Replace spark plugs

A7

Check valve clearance (except

vehicles with auto-lash adjuster)

IridiumReplace
tipped type
6G75
engine
Inspection
(intake side)
4M41
engine

A8

Check radiator hoses for damage and proper

connection

Inspection

Every 90,000 km
Every 45,000 km or every 3 years
(If valve noise increases, check valve
clearance additionally to the scheduled
service.)
Every 30,000 km or every 2 years
(including noise check for every 15,000
km)

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A9 Check engine coolant level in reservoir

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A10Change engine coolant

Change

Every 60,000 km or every 4 years

A11 Check air cleaner element for clogging and

damage

Inspection

Normal
usage

Every 15,000 km or every

12 months

A12Replace air cleaner element

A13

Replace

Check fluid level in brake reservoir and clutch

reservoir

Severe
usage

Every 7,500 km or every

6 months

Normal
usage

Every 45,000 km or every

3 years

Severe
usage

More frequently

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

A14Change brake fluid

Change

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A15Check battery condition

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

Replace

Every 150,000 km or every 10 years

Replace

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

A16Replace fuel filter

Petrolpowered
vehicles
Dieselpowered
vehicles

OPERATIONS UNDER THE VEHICLE

B1

Check suspension system for damage and

looseness

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

B2

Check suspension arm ball joints for play, and dust

Inspection
covers for damage

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

B3 Lubricate propeller shaft with grease fitting

B4 Check driveshaft boots for damage

Lubrication

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

Normal
usage

Every 30,000 km or every

2 years

Severe
usage

Every 7,500 km

B5

Check steering linkage for damage and

looseconnections (including seals and boots)

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

B6

Check manual transmission for oil leakge (In case

Inspection
of leakage, check the oil level)

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

B7

Check transfer for oil leakage (In case of leakage,

Inspection
check the oil level)

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

B8 Change gear oil in manual transmission

Change

Normal
usage

Every 105,000 km

B9 Change gear oil in transfer

B10

Check front and rear differential for oil leakage (In

Inspection
case of leakage, check the oil level)

B11 Change gear oil in front and rear differential

B12

Change

Check exhaust pipe connections for gas leakage,

and check pipe installation

Change

Severe
usage

Every 45,000 km

Normal
usage

Every 105,000 km

Severe
usage

Every 45,000 km

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

Normal
usage

Every 90,000 km

Severe
usage

Every 45,000 km

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

C1 Check brake pedal and clutch pedal for free play

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

C2 Check parking brake lever stroke and play

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

C3 Replace air purifier filter

Replace

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

D1 Check wheel alignment

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

D2 Check front and rear wheel bearings for play

Inspection

Every 60,000 km or every 4 years

D3 Check brake hoses and pipes for leakage

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

OPERATIONS INSIDE THE VEHICLE

OPERATIONS OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE

D4 Check brake pads and discs for wear

D5

Normal
usage

Every 15,000 km or every

12 months

Severe
usage

Every 7,500 km or every

6 months

Normal
usage

Every 30,000 km or every

2 years

Severe
usage

Every 15,000 km or every

12 months

Inspection

Check brake shoe linings and drums (drum in disc)

Inspection
for wear

D6

Check fuel hoses and pipes for leakage or

deterioration

Inspection

Every 30,000 km or every 2 years

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

OPERATIONS AFTER ENGINE IS WARMED UP

E1

Check fluid level in automatic

transmission

V5A5A
model

Check automatic transmission for fluid

V5AWF
E2 leakage (In case of leakage, check the
model
fluid level)

E3 Change automatic transmission fluid

V5A5A
model

Change

V5AWF
model

Change

E4 Change engine oil

E5 Replace engine oil filter

E6 Check engine idling speed

Change

Replace

Normal
usage

Every 90,000 km

Severe
usage

Every 45,000 km

Severe
usage

Every 90,000 km

Normal
usage

Every 15,000 km or every

12 months

Severe
usage

Every 7,500 km

Normal
usage

Every 15,000 km or every

12 months

Severe
usage

Every 7,500 km

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

E7 Check CO concentration (petrol-powered vehicles) Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

E8 Check exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

Inspection

Every year

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

Inspection

Every 15,000 km or every 12 months

OTHERS
F1 Check body condition for damage
F2

Check the common rail engine (small injection

quantity learning)

F3 Road test
Diesel-powered vehicles without DPF

Maintenance item

Maintenance
operation

Maintenance interval

OPERATIONS INSIDE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

A1

Check drive belt for cracks, fraying, wear, and adjust its
tension

A2 Check vacuum pump oil hose for damage

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

Ibr /nspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A3

Check intake air hose and turbocharger oil hose for damage
(vehicles with turbocharger)

Inspection

Every 40,000 km or every 2

years

A7

Check valve clearance (except vehicles with auto-lash

adjuster)

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A8 Check radiator hoses for damage and proper connection

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A9 Check engine coolant level in reservoir

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A10Change engine coolant

Change

Every 80,000 km or every 4

years

Every 20,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
12 months
A11 Check air cleaner element for clogging and damage

Inspection
Every 10,000 km or
Severe
every
usage
6 months

A12Replace air cleaner element

Replace

Every 40,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
2 years

Severe
More frequently
usage

A13Check fluid level in brake reservoir and clutch reservoir

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A14Change brake fluid

Change

Every 40,000 km or every 2

years

A15Check battery condition

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

A16Replace fuel filter

Replace

Every 40,000 km or every 2

years

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

Check suspension arm ball joints for play, and dust covers for
Inspection
damage

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

OPERATIONS UNDER THE VEHICLE

B1 Check suspension system for damage and looseness

B2

B3 Lubricate propeller shaft with grease fitting

B4 Check driveshaft boots for damage

Lubrication

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months
Every 20,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
12 months
Severe
Every 10,000 km
usage

B5

Check steering linkage for damage and loose connections

(including seals and boots)

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

B6

Check manual transmission for oil leakage (In case of

leakage, check the oil level)

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

B7

Check transfer for oil leakage (In case of leakage, check the
oil level)

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

B8 Change gear oil in manual transmission

Change

B9 Change gear oil in transfer

Change

Normal
Every 100,000 km
usage
Severe
Every 40,000 km
usage
Normal Every 100,000 km
usage

Severe
Every 40,000 km
usage

B10

Check front and rear differential for oil leakage (In case of
leakage, check the oil level)

B11 Change gear oil in front and rear differential

Change

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

Normal
Every 80,000 km
usage
Severe
Every 40,000 km
usage

Inspection

Every 40,000 km or every 2

years

C1 Check brake pedal and clutch pedal for free play

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

C2 Check parking brake lever stroke and play

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

C3 Replace air purifier filter

Replace

Every 15,000 km or every 12

months

D1 Check wheel alignment

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

D2 Check front and rear wheel bearings for play

Inspection

Every 60,000 km or every 3

years

D3 Check brake hoses and pipes for leakage

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

B12

Check exhaust pipe connections for gas leakage, and check

pipe installation

Inspection

OPERATIONS INSIDE THE VEHICLE

OPERATIONS OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE

D4 Check brake pads and discs for wear

Inspection

D5 Check brake shoe linings and drums (drum in disc) for wear

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
12 months
Every 10,000 km or
Severe
every
usage
6 months
Every 40,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
2 years
Every 20,000 km or
Severe
every
usage
12 months

D6 Check fuel hoses and pipes for leakage or deterioration

Inspection

Every 40,000 km or every 2

years

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

Change

Severe
Every 100,000 km
usage

OPERATIONS AFTER ENGINE IS WARMED UP

E2

Check automatic transmission for fluid leakage (In case of

leakage, check the fluid level)

E3 Change automatic transmission fluid

E4 Change engine oil

Change

Every 20,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
12 months

Severe
Every 10,000 km
usage

E5 Replace engine oil filter

Replace

Every 20,000 km or
Normal
every
usage
12 months

Severe
Every 10,000 km
usage
E6 Check engine idling speed

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

E8 Check exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

Inspection

Every year

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

OTHERS
F1 Check body condition for damage

F2

Check the common rail engine (small injection quantity

learning)

F3 Road test

Inspection

Every 20,000 km or every 12

months

NOTE: "Severe usage" specifications apply to only vehicles used under severe operating conditions.
Severe operating conditions include the followings cases:
1.

Driving in dusty area.

2.

Driving on rough roads, on submerged roads, or hilly areas.

3.

Driving cold zones.

4.

Engine idling for a long time or short-distance travel during cold weather.

5.

Frequent, sudden application of brakes.

6.

Towing of a trailer.

7.

Use as a taxi or as a rent-a-car.

8.

When more than 50% of driving is in heavy city traffic and the ambient temperature is 32C or more.

9.

When more than 50% of driving is at 120 km/h or more and the ambient temperature is 30C or more.