Revised 4/13/06

FUNDAMENTALS OF SAILING--THEORY AND PRACTICE

HHP 038
Linfield College
Summer 2007
Frederic F. Fost, USCG Licensed Instructor
E-mail address: ffost@aol.com
COURSE DESCRIPTION:
This is an intense, hands-on course that is designed to introduce the student to the theory and
practice of sailing. Classes will be taught aboard a thirty-foot Newport sloop, Libra, on the
Columbia River in the heart of the Gorge. The subject matter of the course will include the
following: sailing commands and procedures, docking procedures, nautical terms for hull, rigging,
and sails, points of sail, sail trim and control, aerodynamic and hydrodynamic principles, accident
prevention and safety, basic pilotage, and the use of electronic devices, such as depth sounders,
knotmeters, VHF radiotelephony, and GPS.
Sailing is a vigorous and exhilarating sport that demands a moderate amount of physical strength
and agility. Mental alertness and active participation are expected at all times. Some physical
contact during sailing maneuvers is to be expected between crew members and the skipper.
SCHEDULE OF CLASS MEETING TIMES:
Section 1: July 7, 14 and 21
1000 to 1700 hours
Columbia River, Port of Cascade Locks
Section 2: July 8, 15 and 22
1000 to 1700 hours
Columbia River, Port of Cascade Locks
CLASS LOCATION:
The Port of Cascade Locks is about a forty-minute drive east of Portland on I-84. Take the
Cascade Locks exit (#44--same number if coming from the east) and drive east (or west if coming
from Hood River) into town. Just east of the center of town look for the sign to the Sternwheeler.
Turn toward the river and go under the railroad tracks. Then take a right turn to the parking lot
area for the Sternwheeler. You may park here or continue east about 100 yards on a small road
that parallels the boat marina. The ramp down to my slip is reached from the parking area at the
end of this road. My boat will be near the end of the first dock to your right as you leave the
gangway. The hull color is tan and the name, Libra, is visible on the aft topsides.

COURSE REQUIREMENTS:
Students are expected to attend all classes and to spend at least 3-4 hours in preparation for each
session. There is a technical sailing vocabulary to be learned, in addition to concepts and theory
that will be related to different sailing conditions.
There will be a break for lunch at one of the restaurants in Cascade Locks. You are responsible for
your own meals.
A group oral final exam (35 multiple-choice questions) will be given immediately after lunch on
the third class session.
REQUIRED ITEMS:
Boat shoes or the equivalent (non-marking soles, please)
Parka and fleece or sweat shirt (you will get wet going to weather)
Long pants or shorts, depending on weather (bring both to be safe)
Dark glasses
Sunscreen and lip gloss
1 liter bottled water
Snacks
REQUIRED TEXT: Colgate, Stephen. Colgate's Basic Sailing. (Ft. Meyers, Florida: Offshore
Sailing School, 1996) This syllabus is a supplemental text for the course.
COMMUNICATION:
I may be contacted by e-mail from Monday through Thursday prior to class. An hour before class
time I may be reached on the boat by cell phone (541-408-1023). Please call in the event of a
delay or an emergency. I always try to begin and end classes as scheduled. Please be on time!
READING ASSIGNMENTS AND AGENDAS:
Session 1: This is the most demanding class. All the assigned material will be explained, reviewed
and repeated until students are comfortable with terms and procedures.
Reading Assignment: Colgate text, pp. 2-30.
Study entire syllabus, with special attention to the sections entitled Sail Handling
Procedures and Sailing Commands. Also, try to identify the items listed in Sailing
Terminology, using the book and the printed diagrams of Libra.
At first, much of this material will understandably be confusing to you, but your pre-class reading
exposure will facilitate considerably your hands-on experience. All of the terms and procedures
will be discussed and practiced until each member of the class is completely comfortable with the
material.

Agenda: Session I:
1. Safety Considerations
A) Walking on non-skid deck surfaces
B) Be aware of boom at all times!
C) Constant alert for other boats while under sail (clock plan)
D) Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)
E) Companionway entry--use of ladder, handrails, switches, etc.
F) Winch use (details given below)
G) Fire extinguisher locations
2. Use of marine head and lavatory foot pump
3. Review of Basic nautical terms
A) Hull terms (pp. 5-6, below)
B) Standing rigging (p. 6)
C) Running rigging (pp. 6-7)
D) Sail terms (p. 6-7)
E) Ground tackle (p. 7)
4. Dockside practice
A) Winch types
1. Single speed, non-self-tailing (spinnaker winch)
2. Single speed, self-tailing (mainsail winch)
3. Dual speed, self-tailing (jib winches)
B) Proper use of winches, winch handles, cleats
C) Rope clutches for halyards--use of brake mechanism
D) Main halyard preparation and use (p. 7f)
E) Raising and dousing the main (pp. 8-9)
F) Flaking the main on the boom
G) Use of sail ties
5. Lunch
6. ASA Video, part 1
7. Dockside practice, continued
H) Unfurling and refurling the genoa jib (pp. 9-10)
I) Trimming and easing jib sheets
J) Sailing commands (pp. 10-11)
K) Engine controls and leaving the slip (p. 12)
L) Returning to slip (p. 13)
M) Stopping and belaying boat (p. 13)
N) Do not jump off boat until OK is given!
7. Sailing on the river rest of afternoon
Session II:
Reading Assignment: Colgate text, pp. 30-72; 89-91

Agenda: Session 2:
1. Review of important terms from session 1
2. Video, Part 2
3. Review of Colgate chapter on "Sails and Wind" (to p. 50)
A) Bernoulli's principle
B) Stalls and luffs
C) Slot effect
4. Learning some essential knots and coiling techniques
A) Bowline
B) Reef knot
C) Clove hitch
D) Rolling hitch
E) Furling line and spinnaker sheet coiling
5. Rules of the road
A) Stand-on vessel
B) Give-way vessel
C) Danger zone for motor boats
6. Headers
A) Wind shifts forward on the boat
B) Tack on a header
7. Lifts
A) Wind shifts aft on the boat
B) Point higher on a lift
8. Veering and backing winds
A) A veering wind goes clockwise
B) A backing wind goes counterclockwise
9. Lunch
10. Apparent wind diagrams (pp. 56-58) This is the hardest past of the course!
A) The four essential points to remember (p. 55)
B) The dangers of downwind sailing (p. 59)
C) Apparent wind in gusts and lulls (p. 60 f.)
11. Afternoon sailing
Session III:
Reading Assignment: Colgate text, pp. 77-87; 93-105
Agenda: Session 3:
1. Stability
A) Center of Gravity
B) Center of Buoyancy
C) Righting Arm
2. Balance
A) Center of Lateral Resistance

B) Center of Effort
3. Learning to read navigational charts
A) Soundings, color shadings on chart, mean lower low water, Bonneville pool
B) Ranges and daymarks
C) Nuns and cans--"Red Right Returning"
D) Longitude and latitude
E) Nautical vs. Statue miles
F) The compass rose
3. Use of electronic equipment
A) VHF
B) GPS
C) UTM grid
4. Lunch
5. Final Exam (group oral exam in cabin salon--35 multiple choice questions)
6. Afternoon Sailing
SAILING TERMINOLOGY
HULL TERMS:
bow - the front of the boat
anchor well - storage area for anchor and rode on foredeck at bow pulpit
foredeck - deck area between tip of bow (stem) and the mast
foretriange - triangle formed by headstay, deck and mast
stern - the after-section of the boat
port - left side (running-light color is red)
starboard - right side of the boat (running-light color is green)
forefoot - where the bow meets the water
quarter - portion of the hull between the beam and the stern
beam - broadest part of the hull
topsides - the sides extending from the waterline up to the deck (toe rail)
draft - distance from the water level to bottom of keel
LOA - length overall; length from bow to stern (not including bowsprit)
LWL - length (or load) of water line from forefoot to point near stern
hull speed - maximum speed a given hull can attain (1.34LWL)
keel - fin-like protrusion (usually lead) under the boat; for ballast and stability
displacement - weight of water the hull pushes aside when afloat
B/D ratio - ratio of keel weight to the total weight of the boat
rudder - the steering device under water at the aft end of the boat
toe rail - black rail that surrounds the boat just outboard of the gunwale
transom - back end of the boat; where the swim ladder is attached
cockpit - area aft where the seats and steering station are located
gunwale - raised area surrounding the deck just inboard of toerail
coaming - backrest in cockpit; jib winches are on top of it
hatches - openings upward from cabin--forward, center, and at companionway
portlights - windows on boat

companionway - opening from cockpit into cabin with stairway down

hatchboards - four boards that close the companionway
wheel - the steering device in the cockpit; the helm
tiller - steering device on boats without a wheel
binacle - raised housing just forward of the wheel where compass is located
bilge - the lowest portion of the boat below the cabin sole
STANDING RIGGING:
mast - vertical spar which supports mainsail and jib
boom - horizontal spar perpendicular to mast which secures foot of mainsail
stanchions - stainless steel posts at edge of deck which hold lifelines
lifelines - vinyl-covered wire which surround the deck from stem to stern
shrouds - stainless steel wires that support the mast athwartships
stays - stainless steel wires that keep the mast from falling fore or aft
headstay - stay from head of the mast to the stem at the bow
forestay - stay used on cutters for second headsail (forestaysail)
jibstay - alternate version of headstay, going 7/8 of the way up the mast
backstay - stay from the head of the mast back to the deck at the transom
spreaders - metal (or wooden) struts 2/3 way up the mast
tangs - metal plates on mast at spreaders which secure lower shrouds
chain plates - metal strips going through deck, securing shrouds to bulkhead
bow pulpit - stainless steel railing on bow which secures lifelines
stern rail - stainless steel rail on transom which secures lifelines
mooring cleats - cleats on bow and stern quarters which secure lines to dock
masthead fly - weather vane arrow at the top of the mast
RUNNING RIGGING:
halyard - line that raises jib or mainsail
sheet - line which adjusts sails in and out laterally
winches - turning drums mounted on deck which trim sheets
cam cleats - cleats on traveler and boom vang which hold line secure
clam cleat - cleat just aft of main winch, cabin-top, starboard side
genoa track - port and starboard metal track on deck at beam for adjusting jib
standup block - jib sheets go through this on genoa tracks
roller furling - mechanism which rolls up jib on head stay
shackles - fittings at end of halyards which secure line to sail
outhaul - mechanism which adjusts tension along the foot of the mainsail
boom vang - reduces twist in main by pulling down on the boom
preventer - boom vang when used at toerail to prevent accidental jibes
topping lift - supports the boom when main is not raised
gooseneck - fitting which secures boom to mast
reef hook - fitting at gooseneck which secures new tack when reefing
traveler - controls the position of main sheet athwartship
halyard clutch or stopper (The Brake) - device on deck near mainsheet winch which secures halyard

SAIL PARTS:
tack - the forward lower corner of sail
head - the top corner of the sail
clew - aft lower corner of the sail
luff - leading edge of sail
leech - trailing edge of sail
foot - bottom edge of the sail
hanks - metal piston devices which secure jib to headstay (no roller furling)
battens - thin strips of fiberglass which support the roach of the sail
bolt rope - rope sewn in sail luff and foot for reinforcement
slides - plastic devices sewn in bolt rope securing main to mast groove
reef cringle - metal-reinforced holes in luff and leach of main used in reefing
reef points - horizontal lines on mainsail used to secure new foot when reefing
GROUND TACKLE:
rode - rope used when anchoring
chain - attached to rode, connecting to anchor
scope - ratio between water depth and amount of rode let out in anchoring
Bruce anchor - one-piece, claw-like anchor aboard Libra in anchor well
Danforth anchor - traditional anchor with flukes
CQR anchor - plow-like anchor preferred by cruising sailors
OTHER IMPORTANT TERMS:
winch grinder - person working a winch
weather side - the side of the boat the wind is coming over
leeward (looward) side - the side of the boat away from the wind
down helm - turning the wheel to leeward (toward the boom)
up helm - turning the wheel to weather (away from the boom)
head up - turn the wheel to weather
bear off/fall off - turn the wheel to leeward
too high on the wind - bear off a few degrees
stalled - too far off the wind; head up
luffing - too close to the wind; fall off
SAIL HANDLING PROCEDURES
This material is crucial for safe and proper sailing. You must become thoroughly familiar with all the
terms and operations.
The Mainsail
I. Getting Ready to Sail:
1) Remove Sail Cover, unfasten all toggles, beginning at the topping lift on aft end of boom.
2) Standing at mast, pull cover toward you and at same time fold into two-foot sections. Fold
fully rolled cover into thirds and stow in cabin.
3) Adjust traveler to the amidships position, securing both cam cleats.

4) Attach Main Halyard, following these steps:

A) Release brake of halyard stopper, located on cabin top, starboard side, forward of
winch.
B) Go cabin top, starboard side, just aft of the mast, and release halyard shackle from eye
bolt.
C) With shackle securely held in right hand, go forward of mast and face aft; with left hand
grab halyard (looped around upper spreader) and free it and a flip of the wrist.
D) Attach shackle to forward-most hole in headboard of main. Make sure that the halyard
is not fouled around the spreader.
E) Release tension on the boom vang.
II. Raising the Mail
1) When the skipper has put the boat in the eye of the wind, release sail ties (blue nylon strips
that hold sail on boom), tie all of them together in a slip knot and stow in starboard
coaming compartment.
2) Take mainsheet off the winch completely, bring inboard over companionway entrance and
fake out on cockpit sole, removing all hockles.
3) Put main halyard on winch with two clockwise turns; have winch handle ready; at the
command to hoist sail, quickly pull on the halyard, hand over hand (another person may
assist if needed); watch the sail as it is being raised to make sure there is nothing fouled. Be
careful to keep the halyard on the cockpit seat; don't get it tangled with the mainsheet on the
cockpit sole.
4) When the main is nearly to the top of the mast, put the halyard across the stripper arm of the
winch and into the jaws; with two hands for the winch handle, continue raising the main
until a slight vertical stretch line appears along the luff. (Note: the halyard may need partial
tailing if it does not stay in the jaws.)
5) Immediately set the brake on the halyard stopper (rope clutch); take the halyard off the
winch, keeping it outboard of the winch so that it is clearly separated from the sheet.
6) Put the mainsheet on the winch with one turn, clockwise, and put the sheet into the clam
cleat. (Do not engage the stripper arm.)
7) Coil the halyard, using clockwise loops about 18 inches long; set the coiled halyard against
the grab rail.
II. Bringing Down the Main
1)
2)
3)
4)

Put the boat directly into the eye of the wind.

Sheet in the main to avoid excessive movement of the boom when the sail starts luffing.
Uncoil the halyard (check for hockles) and hand it back to the skipper or a crew member.
Crew on cabin top: two on either side of mast, two at mid-boom, one at end of boom,
standing in cockpit; have sail ties ready.
5) When the command is given, release the brake of the halyard stopper and quickly bring the
main down, pushing it to the port side; pull on bolt rope along luff, not on sail itself.
6) Begin flaking sail on boom; first fold goes to starboard, second to port, and so on; keep
battens parallel to the boom. The important thing now is to pull the leech aft so that the
layered folds are flat and without wrinkles.

7) First sail tie needs to be placed at the aft end of the boom as soon as the first two folds are in
place; continue to add ties as you work toward the mast.
[In strong wind conditions when the main needs to be doused rapidly, the following
procedure is to be used: one person at mast, starboard side, to pull down sail quickly,
pushing sail to port side of boom. Then, standing at mid-boom position, bend way over
boom and quickly roll the sail in on itself and secure the roll with sail ties on the top of the
boom.]
8) Secure mainsail cover, beginning with leather patch around topping lift at aft end of boom.
9) Adjust traveler to starboard position.
The Jib (125 % roller-furling Genoa)
I. Preparation:
1) The main has been raised; now sailing closehauled or on a reach, port tack.
2) Standup blocks on genoa track at position #3 if the full genoa is to be used; if the jib is to be
reefed, set at higher number as directed (usually #9).
3) Starboard side jib winch: sheet around drum clockwise, two turns only.
4) Port side jib winch: sheet completely off winch, on seat in front of winch grinder.
5) Furling line: (coiled and hanging from stern rail, port side)
A) Undo coil and carefully fake it out at your feet so that there are no hockles.
B) Unsecure furling line from cleat on outboard side of coaming.
C) Bring furling line inboard of winch and put slight tension on it with thumb and
forefinger (so that the line will roll up evenly on the drum at the base of the headstay).
II. Unfurling the jib
1) Starboard sheet grinder:
A) Haul on sheet until sail is fully out, then put sheet across stripper arm (this is extremely
important!) and into jaws.
B) Using handle (two hands), trim sheet until properly set.
C) Stow handle.
2) Port sheet grinder:
A) Lightly tension furling line as the sail is coming out.
B) When jib is fully out, cleat furling line.
C) Leave the small amount of unused furling line at your feet.
D) Put two turns of sheet on winch and take up slack.
Memorize this mantra: Two turns clockwise, stripper arm, jaws.
III. Dousing the jib (furling it back in)
1) Boat is on port tack, broad reaching.
2) Port sheet grinder (getting ready)
A) Remove jib sheet from winch and place it forward on seat.
B) Uncleat furling line and take one turn clockwise on winch.
3) Starboard sheet grinder: (action)

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A) Remove sheet from winch jaws and stripper arm; ease the sheet until jib is slightly
luffing and continue to ease sheet as jib is rolled in. (Note: too much sheet tension
makes it hard for the port side grinder to bring it in; not enough tension makes for a
flogging sail and an uneven roll.)
B) Secure jib sheet to winch (stripper arm and jaws) when sail is fully rolled in.
4) Port sheet grinder: (action)
A) Haul away on furling line until jib is fully rolled, clew just disappearing around
headstay.
(Crew on port side may help pull on furling line.)
B) Cleat furling line, then coil and hang excess line from stern rail.
C) Secure jib sheet to winch as above.
SAILING COMMANDS
The following commands will be used on a routine basis during sailing classes. The actions
indicated by the commands must be executed quickly and accurately. Failure to do so could in
some cases endanger crew safety. If you have questions about any of the commands, make sure
you ask the instructor to clarify matters before confusion arises during actual sailing conditions.
Commands Given by Helmsperson:
1. "Ready about!"
The boat is about to be tacked, the bow going through the eye of the wind. Each jib winch
handler will say "Ready" when the leeward winch (the working one) is ready to be cut and the
windward winch is ready to be trimmed in. Hands should be in position previously shown by
instructor.
2. "Hard alee!
At this command, the helm is turned to weather, (away from the sails) bringing the bow through
the eye of the wind. After two or three seconds, the command "Cut!" will be given.
Immediately, the winch handler quickly releases the jib sheet so that it can run free, taking care
not to get any loops over the top of the winch.
Several seconds later, the command "Sheet!" will be given. Immediately, the other winch
handler, having earlier taken two turns of the sheet around the drum or barrel, will haul in the
sheet quickly. When resistance is encountered and the sheet is difficult to pull any more by
hand, the sheet is led to the stripper arm and then around the "jaws" of the winch. Both hands
are then free to engage the winch handle and stow it when trimming is done.
3. "Standby to jibe!" (Rhymes with bribe)
The stern of the boat is about to be crossed through the eye of the wind (turn toward the sails).
The boat will be heading dead downwind. All crew members will respond with Ready.

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4. Sheet in the Main!

At this command, the person(s) handling the main sheet will immediately and quickly sheet in
the boom as close to the midship position as possible.
5. "Jibe Ho!"
The helm is put to leeward (toward the boom). As soon as the boom crosses over, the main
sheet is eased immediately so that the sail is about 3/4 of the way out on the new tack.
While this is going on, the jib has to be jibed (!) too. There are no specific commands for this.
The important thing is to keep the jib in the foretriangle. To do this the working side is not cut
as in tacking but rather eased off as the other sheet grinder quickly brings the jib over to the new
side.
REEFING PROCEDURES
The Main
With increase in the velocity of the wind, it is necessary to reduce the total amount of sail area
in order to balance the boat and prevent excessive heeling. The main is equipped with "slab" or
"jiffy" reefing to set either a single or double reef. If a second reef is needed, it is set on top of
the first one.
To set the first reef after sailing with the main fully hoisted, the following procedures are to be
followed:
1) Put the boat on a closehauled or close reach point of sail on starboard tack with the main
luffing slightly.
2) A crew member will be positioned at the mast, starboard side.
3) One of the crew in the cockpit uncoils the halyard and places it on the cockpit seat below the
main winch. With manual tension on the halyard, the brake is released and the sail is
brought down to a point where the new tack cringle is just below the reef hook at the
gooseneck on the boom.
4) After the cringle has been secured to the reef hook, the main is raised again, winching in the
halyard, using two turns, the stripper arm and jaws, until a slight vertical tension line appears
along the luff.
5) Positioned along the starboard side of the boom are two cam cleats. Identify the white line that
goes through the aft most cam cleat, and then goes around a turning block, up the sail and
through the cringle to the other side of the boom.
6) Standing on top of the cabin and facing aft, pull the reefing line that runs through this cam
steadily until the cringle is at the boom. Push all loose sail material to the port side of the
boom.
7) After the new clew has been tensioned and the jiffy reefing line secured in the cam cleat, take
the excess line to the forward most cleat, tie it off, and use up the remainder of the line by
going back over the stretched line and tying a series of overhand knots.

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8) Tie the new foot securely to the boom, using the reef lines that are permanently attached to the
sail. Bring the port side of the line under the boom, (avoiding tying off the mainsheet!), and
secure it with a reef knot snugly to the starboard end of the line. (It is helpful before tying the
knot to pull on the two ends to be sure you have the same line. It is also helpful to have a
second person put a finger over the first half of the reef knot to keep tension on the line while
the knot is being finished.)
9) The same procedure would be followed in setting a second reef.
10) Sometimes it is easier to set a reef at dockside (especially at Cascade Locks). In this case the
sail is not raised. Rather someone on the port side of the mast pushes up on the luff of the
flaked sail, allowing the slides to move in the mast track until the cringle can be secured to the
hook. Everything else is the same as above.
11) To shake a reef (undo it), everything is done in the reverse of the above procedures.
The Genoa
1) If the sail has already been set to its full size (125%), then reefing it in is exactly the same
procedure as furling it up at the end of a day of sailing--except that only a part of it is wound
back up on the headstay. Just how much is to be taken in is a matter of experience, but as a
rule of thumb, reefing to 100% of the foretriangle is about as much as the sail can be taken in
and still maintain an airfoil shape.
2) The standup blocks on the genoa tracks, port and starboard sides, will have to be moved
forward to position # 8 or 9. This can only be done on the weather side when there is no
tension on that sheet. After tacking, the new weather side must also be adjusted.
3) If the genoa has not yet been set and it is desirable to keep it from unfurling all the way, then
the following procedure is to be followed:
4) The standup blocks are moved forward as described above.
5) As the sail is taken out by the starboard sheet grinder, a crew member sitting on the port side
of the cockpit at the bulkhead must grab the furling line and hold it secure when the skipper
says "Stop." The winch grinder on the port side is then able to cleat off the furling line on the
outboard side of the coaming.
6) All procedures from here on are standard.
DOCKING PROCEDURES
Leaving the slip:
1) Engine is started; key turned to right one click; glow plug lever held down for 25 seconds; key
turned one more click and released when engine starts.
2) Depth sounder and knot meter covers removed and instruments turned on from inside cabin.
3) Power cord removed and stowed on dock.
4) Starboard bow line removed and stowed on dock.
5) After spring removed from toe rail and put on dock.
6) Port bow line untied at mooring cleat, leaving one belay in place.
7) Port stern line untied at mooring cleat, leaving one belay in place.
8) Forward spring line removed from toe rail and put on dock.
9) Skipper puts engine in reverse.

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10) At skippers command, crew member holding bow line releases belay and quickly walks
alongside boat and gets into cockpit (making sure not to push boat away from dock).
11) At skippers command, crew member holding stern line releases belays and quickly steps
aboard boat.
12) As boat leaves marina, fenders are removed (put on deck before untying rolling hitch) and
stowed below.
13) Port bow line is removed and stowed in anchor well.
14) Stern line is removed and stowed below.
15) Port side upper life line is secured to stern rail.
Returning to slip:
1) Long port bow line put in mooring cleat (outboard of all standing rigging) and led back to
cockpit (wet the eye splice of line first for easier handling).
2) Stern line put on port mooring cleat (eye splice goes through the hole on cleat; wet it first for
easier handling).
3) Fenders attached with rolling hitch; put overboard when secured.
4) Boat returns to marina, making slow, wide turn down wind.
5) As boat nears slip, reverse gear is applied.
6) At the skippers command, crew member previously handling bow line steps on dock and
belays line on aft dock mooring cleat, stopping forward motion of boat.
8) Immediately following the bow line person, the crew member previously holding stern line
steps on dock and secures a quick belay on aft dock mooring cleat.
9) When boat has been properly positioned, final ties are made on all lines, including the two
spring lines to the toe rail.
10) Engine is shut down (by pulling out shut off lever, not turning key).
11) Starboard mooring line attached to cleat on bow of boat.
12) Power cord put in place, starting with plug in cockpit and working aft. Use velcro to keep
cord off deck.
13) Instruments turned off and covers secured.
14) Boat is buttoned up, i.e., all brown covers returned to boom, winches and wheel.
MARINE HEAD INSTRUCTIONS
The marine toilet or "head" aboard Libra and most other seagoing boats is an obvious necessity.
However, it is somewhat delicate and can easily become dysfunctional when you need it most if
proper procedures are not followed. Therefore, the following instructions are provided to insure
trouble-free operation.
Never put anything into the head except human waste and a small amount of toilet paper.
Anything else will clog up the flushing mechanism!
To begin flushing the head, the small metal rod (right side of the head as you face it) should be
pulled up to its natural stopping point about one oclock. Using the silver pump handle, begin a 710 stroke up-and-down pumping action, which will flush the bowl. Then put the rod fully down
(9 oclock position) and pump until about 2-3 inches of water remain. Leave the rod in the down
position.