Climbing Everest: Life or Death

This fiction story gets inspiration from the 1996 Everest Tragedy.
I remembered when I read a featured article on the internet about an ambitious and
brave young man who climbed the highest peak on Earth at the age of just 13. This
incredible successful story of how a human being fights against the nature in such high
altitude and extreme weather condition gave me a sudden intrinsic motivation to pursue
my childhood dream, to conquer the highest ground on the planet, Mount Everest. I am a
firm believer that in order to live life to the fullest, we have to do something astounding
that will mark the best phrase of the entire life. Working towards my Everest dream, I was
searching for information about climbing the mountain located at the border between
Nepal and China. Desperately I found that most guided tours to the summit cost a
fortune. I would be paying through my nose for any of the expeditions to the top. With a
job of writing articles for multiple magazines with earnings of 300$ per article, I just
thought that there was no way to get me to Nepal.

After a year or two after I gave up the thought of summiting the Everest, there came an
opportunity of a lifetime for me, my good old friend for 20 years, Karol King, or KK as I
called him, sent an E-mail to me. He was working as a photographer for National
Geographic magazine and in the E-mail, he wrote, Dear Marc, I sincerely invited you to
come along with me on an expedition to Everest. Weve got the fees covered except for
your personal expense. We will get you to the top and youre going to love it. KK asked
me to join him for an international Everest climbing expedition sponsored by National
Geographic. A team of seven photographers and journalists along with other professional
mountaineers was formed for the making of a new special edition of the magazine about
the Himalaya.

Two months later, I was on an airplane, sitting next to KK, on our way to Kathmandu.
Orange juice in the high air never tastes well, mate. We were having an ordinary
conversation between friends as we were landing in less than 10 minutes. I know Marc,
just horrible. And I can already tell that the tea up the Everest wont be so good as well. I
will miss the vodka. Shortly after we arrived at the International Airport in Kathmandu, a
bearded man in a jacket with Everest Madness logo on it welcomed us. We got in a van,
and then drove through the narrow streets of the capital city of Nepal on the way to the
head office of Everest Madness Adventure Company. We met the leading guide of the
expedition, Scott from New Zealand. He was an experienced climber who had two
successful summiting climb. Listen up guys, I know there is a lot of mountaineering

experience here, but if you think Everest is a playground, please rethink. We human
beings simply arent built to function at the cruising altitude of 747. Today is 24 th March,
and we expect to attempt summiting on 10th May, if the weather prevails. Alright now, rest
well, and we fly to Lukla tomorrow. I thought I just realized that I was the only one in
the group without 8000m climbing experience. KK, for example, had already attempted
three times to the top and failed every attempt. Anyway, I was still quite confident with
my capability to reach the peak.

After a night staying in a local hostel, we went on a flight to Lukla, the gateway to the
Everest. From there, we would trek to the Everest Base Camp and visit the richly cultured
local villages along the way. It would take ten days for us to reach the Base Camp as we
were walking on foot. Believe me, Marc. Ordinary people will get mentally worn out by
the time they reach the Base Camp from here. Also do not forget that the Base Camp is
only the beginning of our summiting route. That is why so many people give up and fail
summiting. KK told me from his experience about how it was going to feel like
climbing the Everest. Along our long way, we had many spectacular views of the
amazing Everest. Getting to stand in front of the great mountains of Himalaya region and
watching sun setting and rising here, I knew that I would never regret climbing the
Everest.
On the 4th April evening, we made it to the Everest Base Camp, at an altitude of 5364m
which is even higher than 10 Taipei101 towers. Clarke, a New Zealand mountaineer, was
in the same tent with me and KK. After getting to know each other, I had to pay my
respect to this 6ft tall man with a very well built physique at the age of 48. According to
him, he had climbed 6 of the Seven Summits, which are the highest mountains in each of
the seven continents, and Mount Everest was his last summit. At the Base Camp, we were
introduced to three Sherpas, who would serve as our guides at this extreme altitude of
Everest. Sherpas are an ethnic group in the Himalaya region. They are highly skilled in
mountaineering; their genes simply make them expert climbers in the Himalaya. In the
following weeks, the Sherpas will help to prepare route for ascending as well as carrying
necessary kits up the mountain such as oxygen tanks for us.
Before we ascended to Camp II, also known as the Advanced Base Camp, we had to
climb through the lower part of the mountain, which is the Khumbu Icefall. This icefall is
considered one of the most dangerous stages to the summit. So, our team had to be very
cautious on our way through the icefall. We crossed the icefall very early in the morning
before the sunrise. Better watch out, I knew an unwary climber who accidentally
stepped on a crevasse and fell. His body was never found. KK warned me to take each
steps very carefully despite ropes and ladders were already fixed by the Sherpas a few
days ago. It took approximately 8 hours to us to ascend the icefall. Scott, the group

leader, was long way ahead of us, reaching Camp I at the top of the icefall 5 hours before
us. He helped to bring supplies like teas to the camp. After spending a night at Camp I,
we had to move to Camp II, which was equipped with more tents. On our way to Camp
II, Wong, a Taiwanese journalist for the magazine, was having an awful nausea, caused
by severe altitude sickness. Without any second choice, he had to be brought down
immediately to Base Camp for medical treatment. A team of 16 turned into 15 as Wong
reluctantly quitted the expedition. Scott realized that the team was ascending too fast,
some of us were still unable to adapt to such high altitude, causing mountain sickness in
some climbers. I myself was also suffering from a minor headache, not having any option
to rest, I kept moving to Camp II, knowing that it would definitely feel better there.

On the 17th April, the team arrived at Camp II, with an altitude of 6400m. Scott gave us
instruction to stay at the Camp II for at least two weeks to acclimatize before ascending
any further to Camp III. At the Camp II, we spent a few days having medical check-up. A
team medic from Canada was climbing along us; she helped to examine our condition.
You guys got to keep the blood flowing, give your body time to get used to the altitude.
She then told the team more about mountain sickness, which in a serious state, is fatal.
Altitude sickness, or mountain sickness, is caused by less oxygen in high mountains that
can make anyone feel unwell. When you are above 2500m, you are already at risk for
mountain sickness. HACE, caused by fluid in brain, is a deadly stage of mountain
sickness. It can cause clumsy behaviors such as laziness and excessive emotion.
Drowsiness is another warning to your body before death. So, if any of you ever feel
drowsy, you should descend immediately. The team listened attentively to her words and
prepared for ascending at Camp II as days passed by.

After staying at the Camp II for a fortnight, on the 1st May, we began to ascend to Camp
III. Camp III is an intermediate camp to help us to reach the final camp, Camp IV. In the
past few days, the Sherpas had carried all the necessary gears to Camp IV in preparation
for the last and final ascend to the summit on 10th May. With the supplies in place, we
returned to Camp II to wait for the summit day. The summiting team was organized at the
camp and three Sherpas would lead the way in the final ascend. Scott would climb later
than us to make sure that everyone could make it to the peak. On 8th May, the weather
seemed fine and suitable for summiting. The team quickly moved to Camp IV. We took a
rest day there and got ourselves mentally and physically ready for the tough ascend to the
summit. Here comes the summiting day we all have been waiting for, mate. Good luck
and all the best to both of us. KK wished me luck at the night before.

In 2am in the morning of 10th May, the team woke up in complete darkness at Camp IV
and started to ascend up to the summit. With headlamps on and oxygen tank carried, the
team reached the Hillary Step at 11am in the morning, at an altitude of 8760m. Report
from Sherpas! No fixed rope on the Hillary Step! I repeat no fixed rope! KK who was in
front of the team reported on radiophone about a trouble faced that there was no fixed
rope on a part of the trail, delaying the progress as the team waited for the Sherpas to fix
the rope. After roughly an hour, the team of 15 was able to move again. As the team
ascended, an American mountaineer, Dolph was suffering from HACE and he refused to
descend. Scott then offered to help him to get the top as quick as possible before the
nightfall. At 2pm, the Sherpas and KK had reached the summit. About half an hour later,
exhaustedly, I reached the summit, at an altitude of my dream, 8848m. Standing at the
peak of the world, what I saw below me was just breathtaking. It was totally unbelievable
for me to reach the summit; it was like a dream came true for me. Such an astonishing
view this is, what an awesome climb Ive had. Thank you, mates! I thanked everyone
through the radiophone and descended after staying at the summit for 5 minutes.

As I descended down back to Camp IV, on the Hillary Step, Dolph with the help of Scott
was still struggling to ascend. The time was 4pm; we were way past the safe time to
turnaround. Yet, Dolph still insisted to ascend. Mate you should get down now, it is
going to get dark pretty soon! Next time maybe, Dolph! I tried to convince Dolph.
Unable to stop him, Scott asked me to descend with the rest of the team as he continued
to take Dolph to the top. The weather got worse suddenly. With Clarke, I tried to get
down to Camp IV as quick as possible. At 7pm, Clarke and I had arrived at Camp IV.
Worrying about the rest, we radioed other climbers to know their progress. I was later
radioed by a climber that KK was stuck on the Hillary Step while descending down; he
ran out of oxygen and was severely ill, potentially suffering from HACE. While 13 more
climbers were still above Camp IV, I radioed Base Camp for help. Weve got 13
climbers still up there below the summit, some in need for extra O! Repeat, we need more
O! Over to Base Camp. As the weather worsened, a blizzard hit the descending trail
down to Camp IV. You guys must get down ASAP! It is getting bad, a massive
snowstorm hitting. Please copy, over! We got no response from the team. At Camp IV,
the blizzard had completely diminished the visibility of the trail, even the fixed ropes
were buried by the heavy snow. This is Marc to Base Camp! Our team needs help!
Weve still got climbers up there, we need assistance! Do you copy? Feeling hopeless,
the Sherpas could not go up the mountain to aid the team.

To Marc, Dolph and I were stuck at the Hillary Step after the turnaround. Dolphs
condition was not very well, he couldnt move. We were below the Hillary and I went out
of O. Over. I received the first reply from Scott, still up near the summit. He sounded

very weak. I was overwhelmed with anxiety but I just could not help with anything. The
next morning at 7am as the snowstorm had finally stopped. The sun shined on the south
face of the Everest as Clarke and I saw a totally fatigued climber returning to Camp IV.
He walked slowly and his face was frostbitten. As more climbers from other expeditions
came to Camp IV for help, we received another radio from Scott saying that Dolgh had
passed out, showing no sign of consciousness. The climber that just returned told us that
the team was unable to descend last night due to heavy blizzard and some of them were
suffering from frostbite and hypothermia. He was then evacuated down to Base Camp for
emergency medical treatment. The climbers quickly organized a rescue team and waited
for the weather to turn any better before going for help.

6 hours went by, the rescue teams consisted of 3 sherpas and 6 other mountaineers
successfully brought 3 climbers down, all suffering from hypothermia. Unfortunately, out
of them, only one had survived and was immediately urged down to Camp II for a
helicopter rescue. It was 2pm of 11th May as the weather turned bad again. A snowstorm
came without warning and the rescue operation was forced to stop. To Scott, where are
you now? The weather is bad again. You have to come down right now! Copy my
message! I tried to radio Scott but I received no response. A day later on 12th May, more
rescuers approached the Camp IV as Clarke and I had to evacuate down to Base Camp.
We kept ourselves updated with the news. Other climbers were still below the summit,
with high possibility of death. In the end, out of all the 15 climbers of the Everest
Madness expedition, only 4 climbers were confirmed survived, while Scotts condition
remained unknown. Come on, mate! Are you OK? Please copy! This was my last
message trying to reach Scott. His body, however, was never found by anyone after that.

Six months later, as a survivor of the 2015 Everest Disaster with 11 casualties, I
attended a memorial service in Auckland. 8 New Zealanders died in this tragic event,
including Scott and my best friend, KK. My interaction with this deadly Everest disaster
still remains vivid; surprisingly it affects me emotionally like it just happened yesterday.
After I had this death-dealing climb, I start to cherish more in my life. Clarke and I wrote
and published our own book, Everest: A Tragic Climb to tell people about this
devastating expedition that still haunts me every time I think of it. The hardest part of the
incident, as I can tell, is losing my best friend. Climbing Everest, for me, it can be a
tremendous experience and well worth the efforts, yet in another perspective, it is one of
the most dangerous and risky things you can do. I would describe that Everest is really all
about an unpredictable life and death game.

Gary Phoo 5A 2016