FEATURE ARTICLE

Far-moving tides of sorrow

and memory*
Exploring the Great War battlefields with a
focus on the Ypres Salient, Belgium.
*an extract from the Sonnet:Ypres, by Laurence Binyon

James Fiford
Social Education Victoria
James is Executive Officer of Social Education Victoria.
He is currently writing a postgraduate thesis, employing
comparative methodology to examine Australian and
Canadian experiences on the Western Front in the First
World War and exploring the relationship between
the war and the creation of the respective national
identities.
A love of history and passion for touring the battlefields
of Gallipoli and the Western Front has seen me return
several times to both places over the past few years. My
most recent trip to the Western Front enabled me to fulfill
a dream of attending the Anzac Day Dawn Service at the
Australian National Memorial at Villers-Bretonneux, in
northern France. Sitting amidst the large crowd of fellow
travellers, watching images of Australian soldiers who
fought and died in this area nearly a hundred years ago
projected onto the memorial, was an incredibly poignant
moment. The temperature dropped quickly with the
approach of dawn, and although many sets of teeth were
starting to chatter, the beautiful vivid pink sunrise began to
spread from behind the memorial walls and warm us with
its glow. It was a wonderful service and the Department
of Veterans Affairs (DVA) is to be congratulated for their
planning.
With the official speeches over, and the traditional readings
and observances made, I, together with the thousands of
others who attended, slowly made our way to the exit of
the cemetery and awaited our transport for our onward
journey. This simple process was slow work, a result of the
size of the crowd, (and perhaps some less than smooth
work by the gendarmerie who were responsible for
overseeing the traffic), and took several hours! As I waited
patiently with the throng of Australians, French, New
Zealanders and British who comprised this large crowd, I
realised that, as important as these large scale acts of group
commemoration are to me, I also wanted to explore First

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World War sites of significance privately, with the time,

space and solitude that allows genuine reflection and
introspection.
What drives Australians, from all parts of the country,
to travel across the world to visit the memorials and
cemeteries in places such as France and Belgium? While
not a question I can fully explore in this reflective piece,
which is really a form of travelogue, it is one that is worth
some contemplation.
As an article produced by a project led by Bruce Scates
notes, there
is a renewed premium placed on memory in, and
by, modern societies. The literature emphasises
a somewhat bewildering array of memory types
that include the individual, local, collective,
communicative, cultural, national [and others].
Scholars of commemorative cultures note that
memory of war is partial and selective, that it is
produced out of complex relations of public culture
and private experience, and that commemorative
rhetoric often conceals as much as it recalls.
Scates et al, 2012
An analysis of Australians commemoration of Anzac Day,
and the underlying explosion of the Australian interest in
military history, certainly conforms to these observations.
There may be many and varied reasons for a persons
interest but, browsing in the Australian military history
section at most bookstores, or watching one of the
rash of television programs that have been made for,
or will be replayed during, the impending centenary
commemorations, it is obvious that war, and the First World
War in particular, is of profound interest to Australians in
the 21st century.
For teachers of history, of course, the First World War
features prominently as a Depth Study in the Year 9
Australian Curriculum: History. In schools and the wider

community, the Western Front is now finally being

recognised as a site equally worthy of visitation as Gallipoli
a place considered by many (although not without
contention) as the birthplace of Australian nationhood. Of
the more than 295,000 Australians who served in this in
the Australian Imperial Force (AIF) on the Western Front,
46,000 lost their lives and 132,000 were wounded.(http://
www.ww1westernfront.gov.au)
Recently, voices of criticism have been heard against the
perceived militarisation of Australian history. Whats
Wrong with Anzac? (Lake & Reynolds et al, 2010) asks
some interesting questions on this topic and this has
spawned fierce debate. As one review of the book notes,
Major aspects of Australias past have been displaced
by the ANZAC myth. Whats Wrong with Anzac?
emphasizes the importance of exploring all aspects
of Australias past, as well as questioning whether a
war-based myth should hold such prominence in our
national story. (Maccallum, 2010)
Such criticisms argue that in focusing too much on Anzac
and Australias military history, topics worthy of analysis
and commemoration, such as labour history, womens
history and, crucially, colonisation history, have been
marginalised (Maccallum, 2010).
Others contend, however, that the central thesis of Whats
Wrong with Anzac?, that Australian history has become
too militarised, is too simplistic. Michael McKernan, an
historian, lecturer and former Deputy Director of the
Australian War Memorial, asserts that Lake and Reynolds
seek to simplify what is complex, do not engage with
what is contested, and do not show, through depth of
research or wide reading, a knowledge of the subject that
their critique demands. (McKernan, 2010).
Scates important question - is the teaching of war in
universities and schools transforming national memory
into a propaganda tool to ensure support for the next
war? [o]r is it fostering a spirit of critical inquiry and
awareness of the cost of human conflict? (Scates et al,
2012) - captures two opposing views on this topic. For me,
teaching the history of elements of the First World War,
and engaging critically with the myth of Anzac, has been
and will continue to be an important component of my
interaction (both teaching and learning) with Australian
history. It should not be at the expense of other important
events, but it must be there.
Personally, my trips to the Western Front have enabled me
to build on my research for my postgraduate studies that
are focused on the Australian and Canadian experiences
during the war on the Western Front between 1916-1918.
In this way, I have a practical reason and am driven to seek
out facts, piece together stories, and see and traverse the
terrain I have read so much about. Names such as Pozieres,
Fromelles and Vimy Ridge ring loudly in the histories of
Australia and Canada, and have called me to visit time and
time again. The Thiepval Memorial to the Missing of the
Somme is especially important to me. One of my British

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relatives is memorialised on this massive arch, his name

one of the 72,000 carved in stone on its stone panels.
But I digress this article is supposed to be a travelogue,
after all. I have in my travels always sought to venture off
the beaten track, and with my previous experience and
with the advice of some fantastic colleagues and friends,
experts in battlefield tourism, I was able to do just that
on the Western Front. Some people automatically conflate
the Western Front with one region or with one series of
battles for example, with the Somme (such as Pozieres,
1916 ) and believe once they have visited sites here, and
perhaps Fromelles further to the north, they have covered
what they need to see. I believe that further exploration
of the Flanders region (to the north in neighbouring
Belgium) is highly justifiable and extremely rewarding.

Map of the Peace Cycle Route, Ieper, Belgium

Whats off the track about this, you ask? Certainly there
are well-visited sites here not least the memorable Last
Post ceremony held daily at 8pm at the Menin Gate in
Ieper but the area offers other wonderful opportunities.
Well, rather than visit the region by way of a hasty one day
guided tour (where you see the main sights but miss out
on the context and deeper relationship with the place),
or in the company of a large group by way of a luxury
coach (where inevitably your ability to be reflective and
contemplative is reduced), I chose to explore by the most
mobile of means. What follows is a very short, eclectic
account of my recent experience cycling a section of the
Western Front battlefields around the beautiful town of
Ieper (Ypres). The route detailed here explores places that
formed part of the Ypres Salient in Flanders, including the
notorious campaign known as Passchendaele (or Third
Ypres) an event Winston Churchill labeled a forlorn
expenditure of valour and life without equal in futility
(Churchill, 1923).
It is hoped that some of the points of interest I discuss
here, together with my accompanying photos, can inspire
those with a similar passion to head over (either on a
personal pilgrimage or as part of an education group) and
experience something similar.

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Stop 1: Starting out In Flanders Fields

Stop 2: A different perspective

I purchased my handy Vredes Fietsroute map (Peace Cycle

Route) from the excellent In Flanders Fields Museum,
located in the famous Cloth Hall in the town market
square of Ieper. It should be noted that, starting from
the huge edifice of the Menin Gate, I chose to cycle the
approximately 40-45km route in the opposite direction,
striking northwards rather than to the south. My first stop
was the Essex Farm Cemetery. The area south of Essex
Farm was used as a dressing station cemetery from April
1915 to August 1917 and it is perhaps most famous for the
fact that Lieutenant-Colonel John McCrae of the Canadian
Army Medical Corps wrote the poem In Flanders Fields
here in May 1915.

The Deutscher Soldatenfriedhof (German Soldiers

Cemetery) in Langemark is interesting because of its
noticeably different design and atmosphere from that of
Commonwealth War Grave cemeteries. It is poignant and
powerful as a result of its simplicity dominated by a
stand of oak trees and studded with heavy dark headstones
and chunky Teutonic crosses. Over 44,000 Germans are
buried here, almost 25,000 of these in a mass grave. More
than 3,000 student volunteers lie here - they were killed
in battle in late 1914 during repeated attacks in the First
Battle of Ypres. The name of Studentenfriedhof (Student
Cemetery) was given to the cemetery because of the large
number of students among these volunteers. A visit here
reminds the traveller, and the student of history, that the
war should be considered from multiple perspectives
and that in war, death, suffering and loss ultimately do not
distinguish between nations or races.

Stop 3: Local stories, hidden treasures

in the village of Poelkapelle
My friend and battlefield mentor and colleague Mike
Kelly, of Apollo Battlefield Guide, had told me about Johan
Vanbeselaere, a technical school teacher and a local First
World War expert. He has made it his mission to rediscover
and adequately recognise the amazing local stories related
to the Great War. Amongst other projects, Johan has

Left above > Part of the bunker system at the dressing station
where the Canadian John McCrae worked as a surgeon.
Left > Rifleman Valentine Joe Strudwick, was aged 15 when he
died on 14th January 1916. He was one of the youngest British
casualties to die in action in World War One and consequently is
one of the most visited and commemorated.
Above > The German war cemetery at Langemark, Belgium.
Photos > James Fiford

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designed and is building a working replica of a battle tank

from the Great War, having already designed and built a
full size model (complete with working engine) of the
plane of a famous French fighter ace of the period, Captain
Georges Guynemer. Johans online log of this project can
be found at http://p1917a.blogspot.com.au. According
to Johan, his mother always talked about a tank that had
lain in the village since the First World War, just beside her
grandfathers house, and the local boys would play on it
and around it. The tank was removed by the Germans in
the Second World War, and what had been a central part
of the villages link with the First War was lost forever. The
original location of the ruined tank is now the site of the
Tank Memorial (see http://tankmemorial.vpweb.co.uk
for more details) to which Johan has also substantially
contributed.

Stop 4: Gas! Gas! Quick, boys! - the

horrors at St Julien

I contacted Johan, and he typified the hospitality and

warmth that abounds in the Belgian people of this region.
We talked for hours as we toured the village, and I learned
a great deal of the tank actions for which this area is
famous, as well as some fascinating threads of local and
family history. One of the most special of my times off
the beaten track, talking with Johan and learning more
about this wonderful little place and its rich heritage
has left me with a far greater appreciation of the impact
of the First World War (and of course the later Second
World War, which also devastated these same areas but in
different ways from the First) on the Belgian community.
While the massive casualty rates of the Commonwealth
and German forces are often cited, perhaps lesser know to
Australians is the fact that Belgium suffered terribly under
the German invasion of 1914 and the subsequent war that
raged. At least 40,000 soldiers and over 5000 civilians died
as a direct result of the brutality. Many more suffered from
deprivation and disease. (http://www.inflandersfields.be/
en/la-premiere-mondiale-en-flandre/time-line)

As I rode south from Poelkapelle to St Julien, at Vancouver

Corner, I encountered the solemn reminder of the
Canadian victims of the first gas attack on the Western
Front - the memorial known as The Brooding Soldier.
It commemorates the Canadian 1st Division in action
on 22nd to 24th April 1915 who experienced, alongside
two French divisions, the first ever large-scale gas attack.
Over the next few days the Canadians were involved
in heavy fighting and suffered some 2,000 casualties. I
had been here several times before, but always by motor
vehicle arriving by bicycle enabled me to feel the terrain
unfold before me and better understand the distances and
topography involved.

The British war poet Wilfred Owen wrote of the horrors of

gas attack in his poem Dulce Et Decorum Est.
Gas! Gas! Quick, boys! An ecstasy of fumbling,
Fitting the clumsy helmets just in time;
But someone still was yelling out and stumbling,
And floundring like a man in fire or lime . . .
Dim, through the misty panes and thick green light,
As under a green sea, I saw him drowning.
In all my dreams, before my helpless sight,
He plunges at me, guttering, choking, drowning.

Stop 5: Tyne Cot

Cycling southeastwards brought me to the largest
Commonwealth war cemetery, in terms of burials, in
the world. Tyne Cot is the resting place of nearly 12,000
Commonwealth servicemen of the First World War. In
Left > Johan with his wonderful creation a working replica Mk IV
tank like the one that foundered in 1917 and lay in the centre of
the village until the Second World War.
Above > The Brooding Soldier at Vancouver Corner, St Julien,
Belgium
Photos > James Fiford

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addition the Tyne Cot Memorial, a beautiful curving

wall on the north-east boundary of the cemetery
commemorates nearly 35,000 servicemen from the United
Kingdom and New Zealand who died in the Ypres Salient
after 16 August 1917 and whose graves are not known. At
the suggestion of King George V, who visited the cemetery
in 1922, the Cross of Sacrifice was placed over the original
large pill-box that dominated the battlefield. There are
also three other remaining pill-boxes in the cemetery.
The vastness of this place, and the magnificent condition
in which the Commonwealth War Graves Commission
maintains it (as with all of the CWGC sites), leaves a lasting
impression and reminds one of the truly epic scale of this
terrible conflict.

Stop 6: Passchendaele But who

with what command can now relieve
the dead men from that chaos, or my
soul? (Third Ypres, Blunden)
Striking southwards brings me to what is arguably
one of the finest war museums on the Western Front.
The Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917 focuses on
the British attack of 1917, where there were 500,000
casualties, across 100 days, for a gain in territory of only
five miles. Passchendaele (also known as Third Battle of
Ypres) thenceforth became a symbol of senseless military
loss. Reading the war poetry of British soldier Edmund
Blunden, in particular his poem Third Ypres, brings home
the terror, helplessness and squalor the soldiers must
have experienced. The Museum features images and
movies, historical artefacts and life-like dioramas. There
is a wonderful replica underground network of British
dugouts and tunnels - including a dressing post, officer
headquarters, workplaces and dormitories. A visit here
is an excellent way to better imagine the way in which
this battle, and many like it on the Western Front, was
fought. For more see http://www.passchendaele.be/eng/
museumEN.html

Left above > Between the crosses, row on row, that mark our
place - Tyne Cot cemetery, Belgium.
Top right > British surgeons at work in a bunker underneath
the hell of Passchendaele (museum display, Memorial Museum
Passchendaele 1917, Belgium).
Above right > Beautiful colours belie their deadly purpose. High
explosive, shrapnel and gas shells from the First World War.
(museum display, Memorial Museum Passchendaele 1917,
Belgium).
Photos > James Fiford

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Stop 7: Polygon Wood and finding the

Australian brothers in arms
Cycling onwards from Zonnebeke was a scenic and
enjoyable ride (especially with the magnificent weather,
blue skies and 23 degrees I was fortunate enough to
have!) Already mid afternoon, and barely stopping to wolf
down some freshly baked bread, local Belgian cheese and
a sneaky Hoegaarden (refreshing Belgian white beer) in
the village of Zonnebeke, I felt myself pedalling harder
as I approached the looming expanse of Polygon Wood.
I have always been fascinated with this place and knew
that there were some stories here I wanted to uncover. I
visited the Polygon Wood Cemetery by the roadside, and
then ventured into the wood to explore the Buttes New
British Cemetery. On the Butte itself (a large mound which
existed prior to the war) is the Battle Memorial of the
5th Australian Division, which captured the feature on 26
September 1917. From the butte, one gets a fine view over
the cemetery and of The New Zealand Memorial to the
Missing.

Soldier Five was discovered after much research and

analysis to be Private John Hunter of the 49th Battalion
AIF. It was revealed later that it was his younger brother,
who had returned home without knowing the final
resting place of John, who had wrapped him lovingly
in the groundsheet and laid him carefully in the soil of
the battlefield. What a wonderful gift for his Australian
descendants to have some certainty, and a final resting
place for John, where once there was only doubt and
gnawing questions. There are many stories from this
terrible conflict that take ones breath away, and this one
without doubt is one of those. Talking with Johan, and
looking through his research and wonderful memorabilia
that covers his taverns walls, added an extra dimension
to my travels. It helped me to look beyond the strategic
aspects of the war and, in a sense, personalise the conflict
and its profound effects on people social effects that
reach through to the present day.
On October 4 2007 the Zonnebeke Five were buried
with full military honours in the Buttes New British
Cemetery. Echoing the wonderful discovery of The
Missing at Fromelles, this local Belgian story is certainly
one that visiting Australians should engage with. For more
information on this story and project, visit http://www.
brothersinarmsmemorial.com.

Stop 8: Beneath Hill 60

After exploring a number of trails that wend their way

through the wood, and discovering a number of German
pillboxes in the undergrowth, I cycled a short distance to
the pub of local identity (and perhaps now international
identity!) Johan Vandewalle. Johan, who owns the Anzac
Rest (Cafe Taverne de Dreve) has worked for years as an
amateur historian and battlefield archaeologist. Space does
not allow me to explain all of what Johan and his team has
achieved over the years, but a striking recent discovery
is certainly a fascinating and deeply moving one for all
Australians interested in the Great War. In 2006, some
roadwork in Zonnebeke uncovered the bodies of five
First World War soldiers. The fifth of these men had been
wrapped in a groundsheet, and laid carefully in his grave.
The mans body had been preserved, like a mummy, and
Johan and the team even saw the glint of sunlight in the
mans preserved blue eye. Deeply moved, Johan lovingly
continued with his recovery operation and this has
spawned the Brothers-in-arms Memorial project.

Turning westwards and homeward bound for our

destination of Ieper, the Peace Cycle Route took me via
one of the most famous hills, certainly for Australians,
on the Western Front. A pre-existing hill formed from the
spoil from the nearby railway cutting, Hill 60 became a
strategic site early in the war. On 9 November 1916, the

Left > View from the butte across the Buttes New British Cemetery
towards The New Zealand Memorial to the Missing, Polygon
Wood, Belgium.
Above > A tranquil woodland scene? The Caterpiller Crater, which
lies besides Hill 60, created by a massive mine on June 7, 1917,
Belgium.
Photos > James Fiford

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1st Australian Tunnelling Company took over the Hill

60 mineshafts from the British. The Allied digging, and
counter-digging by the Germans, saw ferocious fighting
underground ahead of the Battle of Messines in June 1917.
The detonation of a massive mine at Hill 60 formed part
of a series of enormous explosions along the ridge which
heralded the start of this battle. Nineteen (of a planned
twenty-one) large mines, containing a total of over 455
tons of ammonal explosives, were set off beneath German
lines on the Messines-Wytschaete ridge. The explosion,
which killed about 10,000 Germans, was heard or felt as
far away as London and possibly even Dublin. It is thought
that this explosion was the largest man-made detonation
until the age of the atomic bomb in the 1940s.
The site today is a beautiful, green and peaceful spot
especially if you visit late on a sunny spring day once
other tourists have got into their cars and left. Walking
around the site, with a primary historical account of the
fighting to provide me with context, I explored the craters,
sunken bunkers and memorials. If you do make it here
dont forget to visit the nearby Caterpiller Crater, and a
little memorial to two local resistance fighters taken and
murdered by the Nazi invaders in the Second World War.
They add to the historical interest of this special place
and are a reminder of just how much this area, and its
population, has suffered over the past 100 years.

The cemetery is on top of the old town rampart, over what

had been dug-outs in the First World War. Begun by French
troops in November 1914, and used by Commonwealth
forces from February 1915 to April 1918, the cemetery
contains 198 Commonwealth burials of the First World War.

Stop 10: The ghosts of the Menin Gate

Stop 9: The lovely ramparts around

Ieper
Quickening my pace, eager to ensure that I reach the
Menin Gate in time for the 8pm Last Post ceremony, I
visited a series of lovely little cemeteries tucked away in
the woods and fields just south of Ieper. Of these, one of
my favourites is the Hedge Row Trench Cemetery. Being
mobile on my bicycle, and guided by the generally useful
bike path signage, I could negotiate the small lanes and
little tracks and ride from site to site without the bother of
driving and parking.
Trundling into Ieper from the south, I pass the absolutely
gorgeous setting of Rampart Cemetery at the Lille Gate.

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After a very full day of cycling, historical research,

fascinating discussions and meeting wonderful people, I
hurriedly parked my bike and joined the throng gathering
underneath the huge arch of the Menin Gate. Although
this was my fifth experience of this important and stirring
ceremony, it has never lost its ability to move and inspire
me. Ever since poring over images of Will Longstaffs
famous 1927 painting, Menin Gate at midnight (Ghosts
of Menin Gate) as a young boy, I have wanted to visit this
impressive commemorative edifice. The site of the Menin
Gate was chosen because of the hundreds of thousands
Left > A hugely reinforced German pillbox, captured and adapted
by the Australians, atop Hill 60, Belgium.
Right above > Just one of the lesser-known gems along the route
- Hedge Row Trench Cemetery, Belgium.
Above > View across the moat to the CWGC Rampart Cemetery
at the Lille Gate, Ieper, Belgium.
Photos > James Fiford

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of men who passed through the original gate on their

way to the battlefields. It commemorates casualties from
the forces of Australia, Canada, India, South Africa and the
United Kingdom who died in the Ypres Salient. The Ypres
(Menin Gate) Memorial bears the names of more than
54,000 officers and men whose graves are not known. At
8pm, every day, the Gate is closed to traffic and a large
crowd of locals and visitors, from across the world, gather
to participate in the Last Post ceremony. The buglers of
the Last Post Association, local men connected with the
Ypres volunteer fire brigade, have been honouring the
dead of the Menin Gate in a nightly ceremony since July
1928. On the different nights I have attended, there have
been contributions from a solo bagpiper, a wonderful choir
and several bands. Visitors can lay a wreath at the steps on
the side of the Gate and this is often a wonderful way to
add a special commemorative focus to a school visit or a
personal family history quest.

worth their salt should accept mythology as a substitute

for researched and reasoned critical analysis. Travelling
through the Western Front is, for me, simultaneously a
journey of many parts. Focused on historical discovery,
it is also an act of national remembrance and a personal
pilgrimage tracing some of the roots of my family tree.
Lastly, and most importantly, travelling here serves as a
reminder of just how lucky I am to have lived in a different
time and place.
For more information, contact James at jfiford@student.
unimelb.edu.au

References
Churchill, Winston (1927) The World Crisis, Vol.III.
Lake, Marilyn and Henry Reynolds with Mark McKenna
and Joy Damousi (2010) Whats wrong with Anzac? : the
militarisation of Australian history, University of New South
Wales Press Sydney.
Maccallum, Alexandra. (2010) Melbourne Historical
Journal, 2010, Vol. 38, p152-155, University of Melbourne,
Department of History.
McKernan, Michael (2010) The Broken Years: Australian
Soldiers in the Great War/Whats Wrong with Anzac: The
Militarisation of Australian History. Labour History; Nov
2010, Issue 99, p231-233.
Scates, Bruce et al, (2012) Anzac Day at Home and Abroad:
Towards a History of Australias National Day, History
Compass (online); July 2012, Volume 10, Issue 7, pages
523536.

Websites of interest
The Menin Gate, Ieper, Belgium., Photo > James Fiford
The ceremony is concluded by about 8:15pm, and visitors
can wander around the Gate and search for any names
of interest. Many shops in the town near the Gate remain
open immediately after the ceremony, and it can be a
good opportunity to source a souvenir or obtain a book
from one of the military bookshops. It would be remiss of
me to neglect to mention that dinner in the town market
square, perhaps at De Kollebloeme restaurant, is a must.
Unbeatable favourites include Flemish Stew and, when in
season, the stunning local specialty of moules marinire!
Thus ends this travelogue sojourn by bicycle across the
battlefields surrounding the Belgian town of Ieper. Whether
visiting for personal or educational reasons, I can highly
recommend taking the time out to explore this area a little
off the beaten track. There is certainly no better time
than over the next few years (with the centenary period
2014-2018) for a person to develop their understanding of
the conflict and the issues and debates that have stemmed
from it. There is much academic debate about the value in,
and even the danger of, the apparent Australian national
fixation with issues of Anzac and the First World War, but
for me much of this is background noise. Some academic
concerns are worthy of analysis, certainly, and no historian

16

Commonwealth War Graves Commission - http://www.

cwgc.org
The Commonwealth War Graves Commission ensures
that 1.7 million people who died in the two world wars
will never be forgotten. They care for cemeteries and
memorials at 23,000 locations, in 153 countries.
Apollo Battlefield Guide - http://www.apollo-battlefieldguide.com
A Western Front battlefield guide company with a
difference. For all history lovers from individuals tracing
family connections to World War One, to academic
researchers and school groups looking to supercharge
their history education. Apollo Battlefield Guide tailors
guided tours to suit the requirements of its guests.

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