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Garden & Gun - Excerpt From Faulkner's Native Soil
Garden & Gun - Excerpt From Faulkner's Native Soil
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Town,
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Coliseum, university campus • Here lie
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seven hundred Confederate and Union
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boys who died at Shiloh in 1862. What a
Lisa Neumann Howorth (a.k.a. the Night Mayor war, what a war.
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of Oxford) is our guide.
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BLUE HEAVEN — Twenty minutes away,
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on Main Street in Water Valley • An
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★ THE SQUARE OF OXFORD IS STUDDED WITH GOOD BARS
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incredible array of vintage vinyl music and
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and restaurants like jewels in a crown, and you can have big
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musical instruments.
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fun and great meals without ever leaving it. But some of the cool-
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est things to do and see around town can be a little harder to find.
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SOUTHSIDE GALLERY — On the Square
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These are some of the places I like out-of-towners to know about:
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A stylish venue to buy local and outsider
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•
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art or a photograph by Eudora Welty.
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YOCONA RIVER INN — 842 Highway 334
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East Cozy and informal, in an old country
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VENTRESS HALL — University Avenue,
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university campus Look for the gor-
CITY GROCERY — On the Square • Great
bar and upstairs balcony, and a fun place
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house eight miles out of town. Beautifully geous, poignant stained glass window by to run into local writers. Ask Chip Moore,
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wounded at Gettysburg. Lawrence Room, honoring this important cocktails. Downstairs, an excellent menu
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★
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SQUARE BOOKS — On the Square • Cof- old-school publisher, includes writers with Louisiana emphasis. Chef and owner
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CITY PORTRAIT
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fee, homemade baked goods, two floors JAMES MEREDITH MEMORIAL — Between such as Jim Harrison, Kurt Vonnegut, and John Currence trained with Bill Neal at
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of books, and a balcony overlooking both the Library and Lyceum, university Tom McGuane. Crook’s Corner Café and Bar in Chapel
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the courthouse and South Lamar. Nearby campus • A life-size bronze likeness of
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Hill, North Carolina, and at Gautreau’s in
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ROWAN OAK — Old Taylor Road An av- African American to enroll in the Univer- novelist and gourmand Jim Harrison. Mario Batali and raises and cures his own
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enue of old cedars leads to the front door sity of Mississippi. pork. See it curing! A sleek but unpreten-
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of Rowan Oak, the house Faulkner lived BURNS METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH tious uptown interior.
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in from 1930 to 1962. Well-informed cu- — Jackson Avenue • Although the
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UNIVERSITY OF MISSISSIPPI ARCHIVES
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rator Bill Griffith makes visits lively and AND SPECIAL COLLECTIONS — J.D. church was organized by freed slaves in CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: PROUD LARRY’S — South Lamar, off the
Square Books; Mississippi
friendly. Look for Faulkner’s outline for A Williams Library, university campus • 1870, the building was erected in 1910. quail at L&M’s Kitchen and Square • Great burgers, fries, and pizza.
Fable, written on his study walls, and his Permanent exhibits of William Faulkner It was John Grisham’s office for several Salumeria; Ventress Hall. The best music venue in town. Epic past
old typewriter, which practically glows items, including the Nobel Prize. Look years until he donated it to the Oxford- shows featured Warren Zevon, Mose Al-
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with a holy light. The house is haunted. for important civil rights papers and the Lafayette County Heritage Foundation, lison, Elvis Costello, and the Hives.
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Of course. recently added special collection of Larry which plans to restore it.
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UNIVERSITY MUSEUMS — University National Institute on Drug Abuse. Back ST. PETER’S CEMETERY — Jefferson Street
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★
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BARNARD OBSERVATORY — Sorority Avenue and S. Fifth Street, university in the day it was said that students who and N. 16th Street • Faulkner and his wife
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Thacker Mountain Radio BY MARY WARNER
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Union Drive, University of Mississippi tion of classical art and Barnard’s exquisite and loose shoes. High y’all. There’s a historic marker. Other family mem-
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campus • Designed by F.A.P. Barnard, French scientific teaching instruments bers are in an enclosed plot with a large obe-
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the beautiful, classic observatory (com- she got was an old-fashioned radio show. It was a Thursday, and Thacker, short for Thacker Mountain Radio, would are world-class. Look for the Southern folk BLUES ARCHIVE — J.D. Williams Library, lisk in the middle of the cemetery. Faulkner’s
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begin at 5:30 p.m. I sat beside my sister in what seemed like a wooden-floored cave walled with books, illuminated by only a
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pleted in 1859 and restored in 1992) is art collection that includes the wonderful university campus • The world’s most ex- “mammy,” Caroline Barr, lies to the right of
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spotlight on the stage and tiny Christmas lights winking above us. A couple hundred
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now the home of the Center for the Study paintings of Oxford artist Theora Hamblett tensive blues collection was jump-started the path just beyond the old cedar stand.
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people applauded as the host, Jim Dees, announced the round of guests: an author
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of Southern Culture. Center projects from New York who’d written about the Underground Railroad, a quartet of bluegrass (1895-1977). by B.B. King’s seven thousand-item collec-
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Foodways Alliance. rebroadcast on Mississippi Public Broadcasting and can be heard on the Web.) search at the National Institutes of Health’s CONFEDERATE CEMETERY — behind the self a husband here. I did.)
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JAN/FEB 2008 GARDEN&GUN 91