Scribd Logo
Upload

Welcome to Scribd!

  • Cosmetica PDF

    Uploaded by

    Fay Soeshman
    13 views3 pages

    Original Title

    cosmetica.pdf

    Copyright

    © © All Rights Reserved

    Available Formats

    PDF or read online from Scribd

    Did you find this document useful?

    Is this content inappropriate?

    Report this Document

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    Download as pdf
    13 views3 pages

    Cosmetica PDF

    Uploaded by

    Fay Soeshman

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
    Flag for inappropriate content
    Download as pdf
    of 3
    kosmetikos By Steve Herman SHAKE BEFORE USING C= technology did not emerge into ‘our world fully formed, like Athena from the head of Zeus. Sagarin, writing in 1957 on sources of growth in the cosmeric marker, noted: “The scientific progress in the industry has led to improved product, more stable than before, coumeticilly more elegant, and able ro provide functionally superior properties. Examples are more stable emulsions (no Jonger carrying a legend advising that one shake well before wsing)..”" ‘Sake before using? Ah, the good old days As recently as the 1980s, before che eration of modem consumer society and with the Great Depression in fll boom, lotions could be so unstable they had to ‘beshaken before application. Creams and lotions, however cid, have along history: The beginning of moder cosmetic science can be traced to Galen of Pergatmam, active inthe 2nd Century AD. Galen’s Cota Refigens was a primitive water n-emulbion consisting of rose water in mix of 1 par melted beeswax to 3-4 pars ole cil. This product asia and time consuming to manufacture, unstable, and subject corm yerit was cuting edge technology for 1700 years. It didn’t contain an emulsifier in the srictsense, but he presence of hydro groups in ‘the beeswax was sufficient to allow the incorpora- tion of a significant amount of water! Cora Rf, cold crear, wis named for the cooling effect produced when water evaporated on the skin, A stody of this phe- ‘nomenon on the Cold Cream USP XVI (See Fig. 1.) and a number of altemate formulas by Schneider and Ritschell’ concluded that they ‘vere in fact not particularly cooling. Whatever cooling effect may occur is most pronounced ‘when o/w emulsions are used. Beginning about 16 vci|serremaen 1998 1890, a series of refinements improved the for ‘mulation. Olive ol was rephced by mineral oi, which does not rancidiff, and borax was addled ‘o creat an in stu emulsifier with components ofthe beeswax. Figure 1, Cold Cream USP xviI" Beeswax 120 Mineral Oi 560 Sodium Borate 05 Sorbitol Solution (705) 125 Distilled Water 190 Beeswax isa fabulously complex mixture of ‘over 300 components, most in trace quantities A summary of the major chemical types appears in Figure 2. The wax composition varies among species, and only wax from the Apis mellifers recognized by the USP. Figure 2. Basic Composition of Beeswax Esters of wax acids 71% Hycrocarbons 105-1358 Free wax ais 135-145 Free higher alcohol 10.13% Cholesterl esters of fatty aces 1% Moisture, impurtes,color 1.025% ‘The most important component of the free wax acids, and the most single wax acid in the creation ofa eeswax-borax emulsion, is cerotie acid(CHsCOOH). Cerotie acid accounts for about 13% of the total weight of beeswax. ‘When borax dissolves in the water phase, it produces boric acid and sodium hydroxide. ‘The in situ reation prodtet of eerotie acid and soxlium hydroxide is sodium cerotte GotisCOOH#NAOH GaH:COO'Nat ‘The theoretical amount of borax needed in the emulsion is the quantity required to new- ralize free acids in beeswax. The acid number of beeswax ranges from 17-24; so between 57.9-81.5 mg of borax is required for I gram of beeswax. (See Fig. 3.) Borax is 5-7% of the ‘weight of beeswax. NaOH or other bases may be used to neutralize the acid, but boric acid from borax buffers the system, grams per 100 ml at 100°C to only |The development of new surfac- reducing the effect of hydrolysis. 1.3 grams at O°C. Excess borax in tants in the late 1940s, particularly Figure 3. Stoichiometry the formulation can crystallize out nonionic emulsifiers, made more ‘Acid Value x Equivalent Weigh fof solution and would aso increase stable and versatile cleansing creams 56.1 gmAGd the alkalinity of an already high pH possible. Nonionics either supple ‘The equivalent weight of borax system. Another formulation con- mented or replaced the beeswax- is approximately 191. The 56.1 in sideration is phase volume. Salis- borax system. Soap emulsions have the equation is the molecular bury* showed that 45% water phase a high pET, while skin is acidic. The ‘weight of KOH, since acid value by was the critical point for emulsion —nonionies were thus better and Tess

    You might also like